Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. When you have some results with the two materials, please report it back, maybe someone else is also looking for it in the future. Good luck!
  4. Well, then... flip the axis direction and the end-stop position for y in the configuration file and your clone should be satisfied 🙂 See: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/47115
  5. Hey everyone, eventhough this is not a new topic, I keep having trouble with filament grinding on my Ultimaker Original. I've had this printer since 2014 and this is the first real headache I've had with printing. The problem occured a while back when I noticed that longer prints weren't as good anymore as before until at some point there was nothing coming out of the extrudor. I noticed there was no tension on the filament and when disassembling the feeder I noticed those typical "bite" marks caused due to constant grinding. I figured the nozzle might be jammed, so I made some col
  6. Thanks again. Yesterday I ordered some "Flexfil" TPU from 3D filaprint, which is 92A; I also ordered a sample of Ninjatek Cheetah, which is 95A (and a LOT more expensive) - will be interesting to see the difference, but at least it looks like it was the right decision
  7. If you don't want to make your own dry box, I can also suggest the Polybox, works well for me.
  8. I am glad I could help and I hope the information is correct on this website, but I think so....
  9. I am glad I could help 😀
  10. Hi John I think you don't need to replace so much. Important are Bowden tubes, print cores, belts if they look bad. The rods should be ok, maybe they don't look nice anymore but I don't think you need to replace them. Maybe you need to replace some bearings as well if the printer is in very bad condition. The printhead itself should be ok, I would not replace the whole head. Maybe the fans, but only if you see that they are not working well. Maybe a new glass plate if it is chipped. I would replace the whole print core if you see any wear. There ar
  11. You star!! thank you, that is exactly what I needed.
  12. In the menu (buttons) on the left you can mirror, move, rotate,.... the object.
  13. I found a website which says: The shore hardness of PLA Flex is about A 92. https://www.3d-tulostus.fi/en/ultimaker/pla-flex
  14. Hi Could anybody help After loading the model into Cura software I want to FLIP HORIZONTAL the model That is a mirror image Thanks Gordon
  15. L'ABS réclame à être imprimée dans une enceinte fermée afin de maintenir une température ambiante élevée dans le but de limiter la rétraction du matériau.... Sinon, c'est quelle imprimante @vision3D ?
  16. Rusty rods can be safely cleaned using aluminium foil and a wipe of wd40, remove the rods and rub with the foil, then wipe with wd40 on blue roll or kitchen towel. Repeat until smooth. Then machine oil and refit.
  17. I'm embarrassed to write this but i'm getting mirrored prints (Y axis) on my Ultimaker 2 clone using a Duet 2 wifi running firmware 3.11. It prints well just mirrored? All axis move in the correct direction and I can home each axis independently as well as home all axis. I have all manor of configurations, in fact so many that I have lost track. For the life of me I can not get the Y axis to print the correct way. I can make Cura mirror the print but that is not the correct way to fix this and besides I am likely to forget to do that sometime in the future. The X
  18. Hello Everyone! I'm not sure if this is a Creality or Cura question so I'll start here. 🙂 I'm getting ready to print my largest model ever on the E5, which has a 235mm x 235mm build plate. The model should fit, as I designed it with those constraints in mind. It looks fine (and fits) in Fusion 360. Cura 3.6 (also 4.7) and OctoPrint, which I have running on a Rasberry Pi. The gcode viewer in OctoPrint shows the model as centered on the build plate. However, the back and right sides of the model are clipped and the X & Y end stop switches on the E5 are triggered.
  19. I've just picked up a previously owned UM3X to complement my UM3. The UM3X is significantly older than my UM3 and much higher time (white reel holder, but black slider blocks). I knew this printer had a storied past and am fine putting the needed work into it. The previous owner was very up front with everything, for which I am grateful. The print head looks pretty old (faded with a blue/grey tinge) and the feeders look to be very high time. I had intended to change out the feeders to Bondtech in any event as I print with abrasive filament. I don't kno
  20. Thank you! I get the feeling the info directory is a place I should spend more time. Much appreciated. Cheers John
  21. @Artjom_b You were right. Upgrading to 4.7.1. seems to have wiped the extruder settings from my machine profile. Oddly, it kept everything else. After changing this settings things are printing as I expect them too.
  22. Yesterday
  23. The temperature chart from above can be requested from the printer: http://<ip_address>/info/temperature.html
  24. Hi fodskammel, You can find those washers at RS Components AS in Denmark. Here's three variants of Stainless Steel. Good luck. Hilsen Torgeir
  25. What are the F numbers in the gcode like? At 26mm/sec you should see F1560 below a line that is ";TYPE:WALL-OUTER". If you see F840 then yes, it's moving pretty slow. I don't know that analysis software but I can't see anything in your preview that is as dark a blue as the left end of the scale is. At the right end - is your travel speed 190 or are you printing that fast?
  26. Thank you for your series reply. I am planing on making a dry box, so I cannot try your suggestions now, but I will take it and try it after I am done with my dry box!
  27. The flow rate multiplier (M221) will not be in the Gcode. The E-numbers are calculated at the higher flow rate so there is no need to tell the printer/planner. It's the same as speed changes. The "F" numbers are calculated at the rate you set in Cura and there is no need for M220 in the Gcode. When I checked this problem out (4.7beta), the 2nd M104 line was in the Gcode but it was well before the start of the second layer. In the model I was using it was 300 lines of code before the layer change. That does seem odd as I thought it would be right at the end of "layer 0". A hot end d
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...