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  2. If you can't loosen a part well, then heating up is the wrong way. You should let the printing bed cool down and if that is too less, put the printing plate in the freezer for a few minutes. It can also help if you put an extra layer of glue (UHU stick) on your bed. This layer then dissolves more easily and if necessary you can also help with a few drops of water around your object. These printing plates such as Buildtak are quite useful for problematic materials, but for normal PLA the adhesion is too strong.
  3. Today
  4. I would get a spare cable to be on the safe side, if it ever causes problems, it will come again.
  5. Thanks a lot for all the help and suggestions. Cosmin
  6. Its unchecked. so it would be the graphics card then. Cura is running on a laptop at work so I cant really do much about the components. But thanks for the suggestion.
  7. The layerview is in compatibility mode. This could be because you have forced Compatibility mode on, should be off / unchecked. or your graphics card doesn't support OpenGl
  8. Hi, the blob is created for each used head, right before it starts printing. A not used head doesn't waste material for just a blob. If you use only head 1, only head 1 creates a blob, if you only use head 2, only head 2 creates a blob, if you use both heads, both create a blob. Regards
  9. I guess it was the wires. There was no breaks anywhere, but after disassembling the heatbed and reassembling it, it seems to be working no problem. Thanks for the help.
  10. I have recently been having issues with prints I make sticking too well to the build plate. My build plate has a cover, I am printing with the Qidi Tech x one-two. One time I tried to get the print of with a razor blade, and couldn't. So I had to peel off the build plate cover. Even that was stuck to the build plate where the print was. I ended up using the back of a hammer and pried it off after like 20 minutes and with the build plate heated. Another time I ended up heating the build plate to 70 degrees Celsius, and I was able to remove it but the print got deformed where it was stuck the most. I am printing with amazonbasics premium white pla.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Some thoughts... Do you use relative coordinates for the e-axis? I see no M83 / M82 in your snippet. This can be a very long retraction if this is an absolute e value... (re-)sets the e coordinate to zero and here it tries to extrude 202.6365 mm at once. Which printer is it? There's probably a feature in the firmware that prevents extrusion if a certain length is exceeded. I think, you should temporary use relative moves for the e axis (retraction and purge), and you probably don't want to use the G92 command at all. But of course it depends on the coordinate mode that is used at the moment your pause occurs.
  13. Hey, all I managed to get aliexpress REPRAP store to get the PI Hotend Insulator product for me, the even used your photo Alexjx until they can take a fresh one. you can now purchase on aliexpress which I find better than taobao. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000190893355.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.29283c00n8Usky&mp=1
  14. Hello, The print is still going with Cura 3.6 used, but everything appears to be ok. As far as the blob, if you check that option, does it make a blob for both heads, or just the first used? I ask because in my case the PVA was used first, and that printed just fine in all cases, so this wouldn't help. Thanks.
  15. Hi Cosmin, thanks for clarification. The prime blob should solve this issue too, as it helps to prime each extruder used. If you use a brim or even a skirt, these extra lines also help priming the nozzle before starting the "real" print. The priming behaviour seems to have changed a bit in the last Cura versions. Regards
  16. Hi Miron, if you manually set a temperature for the nozzle, does it heat up at all? At which time and at which target/actual temperature does the error appear?
  17. I know that I can access the REST API docs from my printer, but it would be great if there were a PDF or internet accessible website reference for times when I am not in front of my printer but want to work on coding projects. Does this exist anywhere?
  18. I have an ultimaker 2+ for around 3 years. Today it suddenly stuck while printing and I got the error Z switch stuck. After some troubleshooting I took a look onto my mainboard and found that the part of the Z controller just burned. The rest of the mainboard is still working. I need the printer working again asap. It had 1432 hours of printing, and was on for around 2000 hours. Any idea why that happened? What should I do next, is it able to be repaired? Do I have to buy an overpriced 350 Euro mainboard? You could buy a very very good elegoo mars for it. Fuck, i'm young and I am not the richest. I intented to sell some prints on a market next week. I guess I won't. Any ideas why that happened or what I should do? Fast answers are appreciated.
  19. Hi All I hope someone can help me with this Im wanting to pause my print at a given place and I use a a few lines of code that basically does a retract move away from print and pause then resume ;pause 1 G1 E-0.50 F1800 ; Retract :start of bobs stop G1 Z20 F3000 X20 Y50 M0 S30 ; pause G1 E1.0 F1000 ; purge 1mm fillament G92 E0.0 G1 Z2.930 G1 X152.300 Y169.949 E202.6365 F1380 G1 X151.577 Y170.329 E202.6717 G1 X85.990 Y104.742 E206.6637 G1 X86.300 Y106.156 E206.7260 but line G1 X152.300 Y169.949 E202.6365 F1380 does not print, it moves to the x and y coordinates but the extruder is not moving until the next line could some explain where Im going wrong
  20. Hello, Actually, it was the PLA that not is not being extruded for the first layers, while using the latest edition of cura. I tried the print again with cura 3.6 and it seems that everything works fine now. I'll come back with updates when the print is finished. Basically, before, The PVA was being printed, but the first few layers of PLA were not. The printer was just printing air. After a few layers, the PLA started printing as well. However, with 3.6, so far the PLA is being printed from the first layer, so I hope this print goes well. Thanks for the reply. Cosmin
  21. Slipping pulleys or gears or belts can cause the print to slightly shift and start leaning. Tighten pulleys/gears/belts to stop this happening. ( as you explain , you do it ) Friction along the axis might cause it to lose steps. Just a few steps here and there, enough to make it lean. Clean and lubricate the axis so there’s no friction. A misaligned printer frame or bed will result in a leaning print as well, check everything is as straight as possible. Check Current in your stepper drivers and tune it acording motor datasheet. for the rest look on facebook , reedit, amino for other group about Anet because you are on ultimaker forums here , there is an example forum you can get more help https://www.3dprintingforum.org/anet 😉
  22. Ok, then I guess it is also the cable.
  23. Hi there, is been a long time 🙂 im back again with a new ridle with a UM3. so wath' is the problem ? yes, let me in for explain simple, there is "slipping" on Y belt in the machine while X travels. for be more simple, there is the video in "slo mo" https://photos.app.goo.gl/ef7o16kRiKN8W18d8 i tried re align all the pulleys and re tigthen everything but nothing do it. BTW, it hapens one everytime machine starts rigth after a homing but after it no more hapens during stress test or other movement of the XY square. can it be a electronical problem ?
  24. I checked those instructions and the swap does what its supposed to. When I heat the nozzle I get the bed error. I am going to do what TTion did and completely take out the wires and inspect from the board to the plate and see if there is anything out of the ordinary.
  25. Hi Cosmin, if I understood you correct, the PVA is not extruded from extruder 2 when it should be (you wrote PLA is not extruded in dual extrude mode)? This sounds like the PVA is retracted to much at the beginning of the print. You could try to activate the "prime blob" and the "prime tower" in Cura. Regards
  26. Geert_2 Yes Its about the dirty line. You theory is not that far of i think. But i dont now how the fix it. A year ago with new fillemant there was no problem. This roll is more than a year old, was vacuum sealed but it got a little moist i think. Will investigate more and will look at you suggenstions. Thanks for the information.
  27. @zerspaner_gerd: Ja, in jedem Extruder-Startcode steht bei mir aktuell: M104 {print_temperature} M109 {print_temperature} Deine beiden Zeilen wären wohl noch etwas besser! Cura fügt mir direkt nach dem Startcode von E1 folgende Zeile ein: M104 T1 S0 M105 M109 S200 M105 M109 T1 S200 und ganz zum Schluß noch diese hier: M104 T1 S0 diese eliminiere ich aktuell mit meinem postprocessing script. Mir ist noch nicht ganz klar, was Marlin in diesem Fall mit den Zeilen anfängt?! Muß mich nochmal durch den Sourcecode quälen... hab irgendwo zwei Extruder und SINGLENOZZLE definiert, kann sein, daß der da alergisch reagiert.
  28. Hallo, erst mal herzlichen Dank für Eure Antworten! @Smithy: Cura 4.3 beta habe ich getestet, gleiches Verhalten. Eine ältere Version werde ich wohl nicht mehr testen, wenn dann gibts ein postprocessing script, welches den ersten Layer des Prime towers auseinanderschneidet und auf alle verwendeten Extruder anwendet.
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