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  2. So basically, I started using Cura 4.0. Using almost the same settings, now I get results like this (last one I cut in half to see the supports as the print is empty inside):
  3. Ok, je me documente sur le sujet, en attendant il y a déjà le repo officiel. Ensuite ce lien à l'air de bien expliquer ce qu'on peut faire en lignes de commande. N'hésite pas si tu as trouvé un truc en plus de ton côté 😃
  4. Today
  5. This is why we need a print farm!
  6. Yeah this is all new to me... had no idea the settings wouldn't be exported. I will do that tonight and re-upload. Maybe i have something set wrong.
  7. Yes! it does rock! when I loosen the screws I should just tap it with a mallet to knock it into shape or do I need to remove the screws to do that? The frame has tabs that click into each other so it looks like hitting them with a hammer might break them. Thank you
  8. Hey DirgDiggler, ich wollte noch Rückmeldung geben. Dein Tipp scheint das Problem tatsächlich gelöst zu haben. Bei mir stand in den Einstellungen auch 215°C, habe auf 230°C erhöht. Zudem habe ich noch den Rückzug auf 5mm runtergestellt. Jetzt läuft es vorerst wieder, Danke!
  9. Ah, I just noticed that your file doesn't contain any settings so I was using my settings. You should do File -> Save not File -> Export. This confuses Cura users new and old but the Cura devs do not seem very keen on making it obvious that to save a project file you need to save rather than export.
  10. Voici mes paramètres pour imprimer du PP : Buse -> peu importe même avec une de 0.25 ça a fonctionné Température -> Buse 225 / Bed 30° Adhésion -> Scotch de déménagement marron en PP Vitesse -> 35mm/s pour la 1ère couche puis après tout dépend de la taille de l'objet mais je peux monter à 50-60mm/s à partir de la 3ème (avec grosse buse bien entendu) Flow -> 104% Fan Speed -> 0 pour la 1ère puis 100% à partir de la 5ème L'avantage avec une faible température de bed, c'est que le scotch n'attache pas trop à la pièce :)
  11. Bonjour,je viens d'essaie ce qui été indiquer sur la page indiquer cela me donne ne donne rien. La seul chose qui change entre sa commande et la mien ce qu'il a modifier certain paramètre d’impression, via l’argument -s. Dans un premier temps modifier les paramètre de tranchage ne m'intéresse pas, mais je l'envisage pour la suite, mais je pensée plutôt utiliser des fichier ".json" cela permet de passer plus argument sans surcharger le code. Apres j'ai tenter de passer "help" a la fonction "os.popen" et la sortie fut tout a fait correcte s'est pour cette raison que je pense que qu'il y a qu'elle chose de différents entre CuraEngine et les autre fonction. Mais je ne trouve pas quoi.
  12. I didn't install a smoother on the extruder, is there still a chance of loss of torque on that without the smoother? My travel speed is usually 120-150mm/s and no slippage so far(its early days in the testing though). As for the case, its ABS Pro from formfutura and i've tested it myself up to 110c without any issue, so it should be ok.
  13. But my layer height is set to .2mm So when you sliced it it was with different settings? I wasn't trying to talk up another product here or put down cura. I'm asking in this forum because i use Cura and would like to continue to do so. Using other software does what it's supposed to do ruling out the printer which again is why I'm here. If my line width is set to .4mm and a single wall setting with .4mm wall thickness should i really have to under-extrude by almost 40% to get that? Further to that if i set my wall thickness to .5mm and at %100 flow I'm still getting the same wall thickness as a .4mm setting then i have to change my flow % for the same filament depending what my wall thickness is set to. I'm sorry but that doesn't seem right at all. I will try some other filament to see the results but i expect it to be more or less the same. I'm just looking for confirmation that the line width setting in cura 4.0.0 actually has a real effect on extruder output because i can change that all day long and it doesn't appear to make a difference.
  14. My models are full of small circles and tiny features, and they print fine, both in PLA and PET. This is a keychain-miniature of dental models used in the hospital. I tend to print these things rather slow (25...30mm/s) and cool (195...200°C for PLA; 210...220°C for PET), bed temp 60°C for PLA, and 80...90°C for PET. Bed is leveled rather close so the first layer is squeezed well (manual leveling on old UM2 printers). Everything else is pretty much default (I am using an older version of Cura). For reference: text caps height = 3.5mm; character legs are 0.5mm wide. View of the bottom layers. This is transparent PET. The lighting from the back gives some weird highlights due to reflections and defractions in the model, but the circles are printed almost perfectly. They are ca. 2.5mm diameter. The ruler is in mm and cm. The tiny dark spots which look like corrosion pits are caused by salt, as I printed these using my "salt method" (=wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water). This is the routine quality I get, with close to default settings. So there might be something else going on in your printer or settings? A setting that inadvertentie got changed? Or printing too hot or cold? Or a non-optimal bonding? Bed too far away, or too close?
  15. Hi, I am looking to buy an Utimaker 3 or Ultimaker 3 extended. Has to be in a good condition and needs to work perfectly. I am based in Romania. Pm if you have one for sale.
  16. Although this is not an answer to your question, it might also improve the situation: the cause of warping might also be because of the way you clean your glass plate, the bonding method you use (or lack of), the distance between nozzle and bed, and the environmental situation (air moisture, temp). Since I started using the "salt method" for bonding, I don't have Ultimaker PLA warping anymore. I use their nice "Pearl" color; I don't know about other colors. The "salt method" = first clean the glass with whatever means you want, e.g. isopropyl alcohol, acetone,... (but no soaps or oils). Then clean with pure warm tap water only. Then wipe the glass plate with a tissue moistened with salt water. Or put a few drops of salt water on the glass and wipe them dry with the tissue. Very gently (!!!) keep wiping until this dries in a thin almost invisible mist of salt stuck to the glass. Especially in moist weather this gives me a much improved bonding when the glass is hot (60°C). When cold, there is no bonding at all, so the models come off by themself after finishing and cooling down. The ease of applying and ease of model removal makes this method attractive for me. This works very well for low and flat models. My models are usually 12 to 15 cm long and 100% filled. But I don't recommend it for narrow and high models (e.g. lantern poles) or models with huge overhangs, because the salt can not absorb much shocks when the nozzle bangs into edges of a model (overhangs tend to curl up). An original model (bottom), perfectly flat after printing. And one that sat in a laboratory oven (top) at an elevated temperature of 70°C for a couple of hours, to see how it would react and warp due to its internal molded-in stresses, as a result of the 3D-printing process. Other people are very successfully using other bonding methods: hairspray, dilluted wood glue, glue stick (some wipe it with water afterwards), 3D-LAC, and other means. Each method may have its advantages and disadvantages. So it might be worth sorting out the basic cause of the warping and remedy that, instead of trying to find a workaround.
  17. pas très clair ton message. le fichier 3D issue d'un logiciel de CAO sera par exemple en .STL, cura ouvre ce fichier. cura va trancher le 3D pour le rendre interprétable par l'imprimante en créant un fichier .UPF pour une UMS5, en .GCODE pour une UM2 et UM3, tout dépend comment tu as paramétré CURA. je ne suis pas un spécialiste de CR10, mais Google me dit que .GCODE fonctionne. donc regarde bien ton paramétrage CURA, tu dois avoir un fichier .GCODE en fin de tranchage. PS je te suggère à l'avenir de créer ton propre sujet plutôt que mélanger ta question dans les problèmes d'épaisseur fine de @Poulpi
  18. Yes, I do fully understand that concern. I am feeling the same about post-processing work; I don't like it. :-) But printing vertically with lots of retractions, and the nozzle moving through the air a lot, also takes time, in addition to creating the imperfections you have seen. Depending on your designs and your printer, there might come a point where printing flat goes faster, and requires less post-processing than smoothing out these imperfections. So you could get more done with less effort. Maybe... If you plan on doing lots of prints, I think it might be a good idea to print a small representative test in both ways, and compare the time, quality and required post-processing? Or even not print them, but just slice them in Cura, and compare the predicted printing times?
  19. dsp

    cura 4.0 help

    Sorry I don't know if that is possible I print over the network so I always open the 3fm files in cura. Usually I use them if I think we need to print the project more often. but you can give it a try
  20. Bonjour j'ai un problème avec cura,quand il transforme le fichier,que l'on peu mètre d'ans l'imprimante,pour commencer a travailler celle ci ne trouve pas le fichier,qui et en ufp pouvais vous m' aider svp
  21. fait un essai avec du ruban adhésif large sur la vitre (type havane ou rouleau scotch de déménagement) ce scotch est en PP. l'adhérence au plateau est parfaite, c'est un peu plus délicat pour enlever ton impression ,.....le scotch vient avec la pièce. fait toi ton idée
  22. Looks nice and clean, my only 'but' is that the heat craw will go up affecting the small boards and the printed part. The smothers easily get to 60-70C so you better print that on something else than pla or that enclosure will deform just like the plastic covers they sell with them. The other issue of the smoothers is the torque is reduced, so if you get a x/y slipping change the travel speed for non printing moves. I also observed a lot of torque lost on the extruder, so check that if you print at the limit or raise the hotend temperature to compensate the torque. For reference
  23. The slicer assumes that the lines are rectangular in cross section (of course, this isn't true in reality but, then again, FFF printing is all one big approximation anyway). So for a line width of 0.4mm and a layer height of 0.3mm, 1mm of line needs 1 x 0.4 x 0.3 mm of filament which is 0.12mm^3. The filament dia is 1.75mm so that gives a cross section area of approx 2.4mm^2 so we need to extrude 0.12/2.4 = 0.05mm of filament for each mm of wall line length. Reality and intention diverge? Sorry, haven't a clue. I recommend that you use slic3r, then.
  24. Please Pardon my ignorance here because I dont know a lot about this... When you say 0.4mm line width extruding at 0.050 mm/mm what exactly does that mean and what is the calculation? And if you're saying that it all looks ok, why then does changing the line width and wall thickness result in the same wall thickness between prints? I even changed my nozzle with a new one to make sure what I was using wasnt worn out or something. E steps per mm us also calibrated. Doing the same in slic3r actually has an effect on the wall thickness with the same object.
  25. Comme quoi la propreté c'est un paramètre important...
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