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  2. I came home the other day and my print had failed and the Y axis rail was laying on the table outside my printer. It had rust spots on it so I cleaned it off and began examining things. The rust was from what seems to be a linear rail bearing. I cleaned it out as much as I could and applied some more oil and was able to get a successful 8 hour print accomplished. However the next print ended up popping the rail off and failing. I Googled around a little to see where to buy the replacement bearing but it seems not obvious to find. This seems like an easy fix if I can get the correct replacement part, but where?
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  5. yeah, it is a nice color... I like it!! ­čśÇ Definitly it's not shiny. Less vivid than this photo... slightly white, looks like it was sanded
  6. Hello , I have a 3 in 1 extruded and I have been searching for a way to have the z axis raise before the filament switch. Can anyone help?
  7. Right click the properties, under the Compatibility tab click the Change High DPI settings, at the bottom check High scaling DPI override, then under the Scaling performed by: [dropdown] select System (Enhanced). This worked for me running Windows 10 on a Surface Pro 4. Fresh install of Cura 4.1.0 Regards, J
  8. Thanks for the modified design. I'm still not sure if I should use the clip or not. I had the clip for a while above, then again not, opinions differ. In the event that the print object comes loose and is pulled along by the print head, I'm not sure if the damage in the print head isn't even greater if the flap doesn't open. On the other hand, if everything else is fine and only the flap opens, then the clip can prevent more damage.
  9. Modified from a previous design published by others. I have shortened and broadened the retainer clip, so that it wouldn't crash against the glass doors when printing an object that reaches to the very front of the build plate. Note that this design is specific to the S5. I strongly advise to always use this retainer clip. I have completely destroyed a printhead because the front disengaged from its wimpy little magnets and crashed into the model (fortunately UM accepted that this was a warranty issue). https://grabcad.com/library/1033247
  10. There is a plugin called Printer Settings on market place. I'm not quite sure wether this can help you, but there is a entry for "Z Endstop in Positive Direction". Check with care when you make adjustments with this plugin
  11. Das mit der Layerh├Âhe/Schichtdicke passt schon, war mein Fehler, weil ich nur auf das Profil "Fine" geschaut habe, eingestellt hast du aber eh 0.2mm. Ja wegen den anderen Werten tue ich mir schwer, weil ich nur ein englisches Cura verwende und die deutschen Begriffe nicht kenne. Da wird vielleicht noch jemand antworten, der mit dem deutschen Cura arbeitet und die Begriffe kennt. Noch ein Hinweis, du siehst in Cura nicht alle Einstellungen, aber wenn du im Suchfeld das Setting eingibst, dann kommt es trotzdem. Du kannst aber auch alle Einstellungen anzeigen lassen, daf├╝r wird allerdings Cura ein bisschen langsamer. Aber wenn du in die Einstellungen gehst, dort wo du auch deinen Drucker und Materialen konfigurieren kannst, dann gibt es dort auch einen Men├╝punkt f├╝r die Sichtbarkeit der Settings. Dort kannst du einmal durchschauen was es noch so alles gibt,
  12. does the Mark 2 conversion work with cura 4.1 I have it working on V3.2 was going to upgrade but want to check first..
  13. Yes, I know the experience with PLa demo-models left in the car... Now I use PET and NGEN for parts for my car: dash cam filter mount, clamps,... Up till now these have survived unwarped. These materials are still easy to print.
  14. greatg no I have not connected it I have the mark two mod on so didn't see the point I thinking of getting UM3 and connecting it but not sure,, Ahoeben I agree that is a reason I'm not printing much with palette top picture is a product im developing so is a functional model (Proto type) it takes to long 18hrs in fact the purge block is the majority of the time the car was 10hrs but, im struggling with the waist,, there is however ways around the waist, my reason for putting the pics up is to show the Palette is an option and it does work...although I just stuffed my printer up using PVA which I wont do again...
  15. Yep! ­čÖé Thanks for your reply and Marlin explanation. I guess that makes it trickier to incorporate into Cura. Hmmm... shame as having that in Cura would be ideal, not just for us UM2 "oldies" but generally as well to benefit other makes of printers possibly? ­čśë I did start earlier today looking at "how to write your own plugin" thanks for the hint to the examples and in particular "post proessing plugins" I'll see how I go with it. In another post about fan speed I found "M106 S255 P0" - from what I understand, this in Gcode means "Fan 0 100%" so I think I now have my first step of what to look for and what it should be briefly modified to for a "kick" start. From what you say, I'm guessing the sequence for this "post processor" then needs to be something like - 1. Read in all the gcode 2. Search for M106. 3. Read and store that entire line 4. Replace that line with "M106 S255 P0" 5. Count 15 or so lines further on (as per your suggestion) 6. Insert stored line in there 7. Write out the amended gcode to a new file. I think the programming language is "python like" or actually Python. Not something I have a lot of knowledge of. So it's going to be a bit up hill. But I'm up for giving it a go! Downloaded https://github.com/nallath/PostProcessingPlugin
  16. Ah, I'm not familiar with that printer. If it was a UM3 I would have said it might be traveling to do the lift switch mechanism.
  17. Good day, Long time "lurker" but new member to the forum. Also a long time CURA user. I have come across the need to start using the CURA Engine (Console) version to slice and extract the print time and some other material/dimensional data information from a large list of STL, OBJ, and 3MF files. I am using the output from the CURA Engine as a check against the desktop version to make sure I am getting the same numbers for a few of the files in the list as a check before processing all the files. The process I have used is to get a log file from a sliced part in the desktop version with all the parameters that I need and then pass that log file to the CURA Engine to have the same parameters for the slicing of the rest of the files in the list. I have noticed that there are some files that give exactly the same print time, material volume, and support volume results for both CURA Engine and Desktop versions, but then there are other files that do not give any of the same results between CURA Engine and desktop using the same log file and print parameters? Am I missing something or doing something wrong by using this process? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Randy
  18. Good day, Long time "lurker" but new member to the forum. Also a long time CURA user. I have come across the need to start using the CURA Engine (Console) version to slice and extract the print time and some other material/dimensional data information from a large list of STL, OBJ, and 3MF files. I am using the output from the CURA Engine as a check against the desktop version to make sure I am getting the same numbers for a few of the files in the list as a check before processing all the files. The process I have used is to get a log file from a sliced part in the desktop version with all the parameters that I need and then pass that log file to the CURA Engine to have the same parameters for the slicing of the rest of the files in the list. I have noticed that there are some files that give exactly the same print time, material volume, and support volume results for both CURA Engine and Desktop versions, but then there are other files that do not give any of the same results between CURA Engine and desktop using the same log file and print parameters? Am I missing something or doing something wrong by using this process? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Randy
  19. I am happy to report that the issue seems to have been in my design in Fusion360. I started from scratch and made sure I used components properly in fusion360, exported the three layers as stl files and did all the right things in Cura and the result printed like it was expected to. I am not entirely sure what I did wrong but separating things into components is new to me and it is not surprising that I screwed it up. The surprising thing was that I ended up with three apparently good layers that were brought into Cura and all seemed well. In the past I used separate bodies for my different color layers but that was not practical with text as each letter ends up as a separate body which has to be exported as a separate stl and the whole thing gets very messy very fast. Using components I can export all letters at the same time making it much easier to manage. Thank you for the assistance !
  20. https://www.youmagine.com/salman86/designs This guy is posting spam comments to projects of other users.
  21. Hallo, ich brauche eine Hilfestellung zum ABS. Vorweg m├Âchte ich sagen, das die Oberfl├Ąche der Bauteile perfekt ist. So wie ich es mir vorstelle. Das Problem ist der erste Layer des Bauteiles. Hier verschmilzt das ABS nicht richtig. Will sagen man sieht die einzelnen F├Ąden und kann sie unter Umst├Ąnden auch l├Âsen. Dies sieht nat├╝rlich nicht sch├Ân aus und schleifen kann es ja auch nicht sein. Ich habe mit PLA, Carbon, PETG den Gegencheck gemacht und da sind die Layer perfekt. Ich dachte zuerst es w├╝rde am Printafix liegen und bin dann auf RAFT gegangen. Das Raft sieht von der Unterseite perfekt aus. Nur das Bauteil hat auch auf dem Raft den schrecklichen unteren Layer. Ich drucke ├╝ber die zweite Nozzle 0.4 Drucker Ultimaker 3 Extendet Komplett geschlossener Bauraum Haftung Printafix Slider CURA 4.1 Printer neueste Firmware Ich habe zur besseren ├ťbersicht das Druckprofil als Datei eingef├╝gt. Ich gestehe, das der schmale Steg der Unterseite des Bauteiles 3 mm betr├Ągt, habe aber auch wenn ich einen W├╝rfel drucke das selbe Layerproblem Das Druckergebnis seht ihr auf den Bildern. Ich hoffe Ihr k├Ânnt mir ein wenig helfen. Gr├╝├če Michael Michas-ABS-Einstellung.curaprofile
  22. Die tats├Ąchlich nutzbare Bauraumgr├Â├če h├Ątte klarer kommuniziert werden k├Ânnen, das stimmt. Andererseits geht UM damit auf Nummer sicher, dass keiner mit dem Druckkopf irgendwo reinrammelt. Beim Ender3 wird stumpf am Rand oder dar├╝ber hinaus rumgefahren, da bin ich schon manchmal ├╝ber die Klammern gerattert. Das nachstehende Teil ist 180x180, der zweite Extruder ist ausgeschaltet - da ist schon noch Platz. 180x200 gehen, 200x200 leider nicht. Mit VW ist das nicht zu vergleichen.
  23. @Ksstyling, wenn ich einmal so ein gro├čes Teil drucke, dass an die Grenzen geht, kauf ich doch nicht deswegen gleich einen fast doppelt so teuren Drucker - da w├╝rde es sich ja eher rechnen, dass bei Shapeway & co. oder in diversen Cloudprintings drucken zu lassen - w├Ąr immer noch billiger... Zumal bei so gr├Â├čen auch gern mal Probleme eingehandelt werden... Je gr├Â├čer, desto teurer, desto mehr Masse - also i.dr. nicht gerade ein Rennpferd... usw... Finde das etwas kurz gedacht. Aber manche kaufen auch Ihr Auto danach, dass Sie alle 2 Jahre mal... und ansonsten nur eine Person von A) nach B). Richtig ├╝berlegt w├Ąre ┬┤ne kleine g├╝nstige Kiste und wenn man es wirklich mal braucht, die 200 Euro in die Hand nehmen - oder bei Boot ziehen etc. 800 Euro und Sixt, Europcar & co. sind deine Freunde... @Produktdesigner, eigentlich nicht. Tinkergnome uns Smithy erkl├Ąrten es dir ja schon. Ich geh da etwas mehr auf Nr. sicher, aber bei Dual verlierst du etwas und dann kommt es drauf an, wie du das Teil ausrichten tust/kannst. Entsprechend kannst du den Bauraum schon sehr gut ausnutzen. Nur ist das Werkst├╝ck- und Planungsabh├Ąngig. Also Phantasie-Werte sind das nicht. Wie gesagt, in Y ist mehr drin und wenn du die Kamera mit ber├╝cksichtigst, ist da auch noch etwas drin, aber da reizt du dann schon enorm aus. Da wird es dann auch schwer mit dem Briem f├╝r die Haftung - schlie├člich wird das Teil nicht mit 100 g und in 1 h gedruckt werden... Da w├Ąre es ├╝bel, wenn du nach 21 h zusehen m├╝├čtest, wie es sich von der Plattform langsam verabschiedet... Da solltest dann den Briem in die Konstruktion einflie├čen lassen - nach innen 0,2 mm stark... Dann hast da Haftung und sparst nochmal etwas Platz. Gru├č, Digibike
  24. .....and it would be good to be using a bioplastic.
  25. I do a lot of demonstrations in schools and trade fairs, so I have printed a serious range of models - from toys to engineering products - which I can use to engage people in discussions about the potential of 3D printing. I have primarily printed in PLA, being attracted by its surface finish and wide range of colours. However, in the recent hot spell here in the UK, I've had some quite important prints warp where there are relatively thin elements to the design. Clearly, some PLA prints cannot withstand the heat when left for an afternoon in the interior of a car during a reasonably hot British summer day. What filament should I move on to, since I want to avoid having this happen again? I need something which is as robust as PLA, but which won't suddenly warp on me in this way. Having a good variety of colours available is important - as would be surface finish.
  26. Also mit anderen Worten ist die Angabe von Ultimaker zum Bauraum falsch und wurde so ermittelt, wie Volkswagen den Verbrauch und die Abgaswerte der Autos berechnet. Toll
  27. While not on an Ultimaker, I've had great results with XSTRAND GF30-PA6 and 3DXTECH PA6-GF30 used in conjunction with Taulman SAC1060 support material (dual extruder machines). SAC1060 is specifically formulated for use with Nylon materials, serving as a breakaway support material - I prefer using it over soluble support materials like BVOH (HydroFill, etc), prints come out much nicer. Glue stick works well for glass filled nylons.
  28. Actually it's hard to go backwards in gcode (edit a previous line once you find a fan speed change). and you don't want to delay a whole half second as it will create a blob at the fan change spot. So instead I would replace the fan speed to 100% but remember the value, then after 15 more G1 codes have occurred I would insert the original fan gcode back in. In other words no delay/sleep/wait gcode (whatever it's called). G1 codes are extruding moves and each move will take a little time.
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