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  2. Yep, checked that. It is the Cura update that started this. There is no start or end coseds in the profiles for both (2+ and 2+EX). Been going thru all my settings and can't find the code that makes nozzle go into purge pile. never used to do that. It would move XYZ after purge to start location and now it Z moves to about 1mm then XY to start location. Hope this helps explain what its doing. regardless, I'm leaving the brush on as its nice to wipe the purge before the print starts. 🙂
  3. On the older spools I have the material is indicated: PS (=polystyreen). Other spools might be ABS, PC,... I don't know about the newest spools. So yes, these old ones should be recyclable. (But I am not an Ultimaker representative, but just a user, so this is not official.) But even if the spool would not be recycled, but only recollected in the general "rest" fraction of garbage, and be burned, it is probably still way more environmentally friendly than glass or cardboard. Cardboard requires killing lots of trees to produce it. And glass requires 100x more energy to melt it than plastic. And you don't get any energy back from it at the end of its lifecycle (which for glass bottles is only 6x re-use, plus a lot of dangerous chemical cleaning liquids in-between). Modern burning-installations use the heat from burning garbage to produce electricity and warmth for heating buildings, or for industrial processes (for which otherwise other energy sources would have to be found). The exhaust gasses CO2 and H2O (carbondioxide and water vapour) are food for the plants and trees. Today there is not enough CO2 in the air, only 0.03% to 0.04%, and most plants are on the edge of extinction. Ideally, there should be between 4x and 10x more CO2 for optimal plant growth. Yes, way more CO2, not less. Which is scientifically proven in every glass greenhouse: they inject a lot of CO2 in their greenhouses to increase growth and production. The rule is: 10x more CO2 gives 6x to 7x more green, without you needing to do anything. Plants grow by themself. Then all deserts world-wide would become green again, automatically. The problem is not "lack of water" in the deserts, no, the problem is lack of CO2 to enable plant growth. If there is 10x more CO2, then plants don't have to open their pores as much to breathe in enough CO2, so they don't evaporate and lose as much moisture. Then the current amount of water in the desert is sufficient. This has been proven over and over again in test-environments. And if all deserts would be green again, covered in forest, earth temperature would go down a bit and then stabilise. Because the sunlight is absorbed by the trees and turned into wood and leafs, so it is used-up, and can no longer heat the surface. Wood is stored solar energy. And if the whole earth would be green again, with 6...7x more plants than now, there is enough food for everyone, and for all animals. This would be very benificial, obviously. The chemical formula is: CO2 + H2O + lots of sunlight energy ---> long C-H-O chains (=wood + leafs + juices) + O2. In words: carbondioxide and water are turned into wood, leafs, and juices, if there is enough sunlight as energy source. And oxygen is released. The O2 is the oxygen we need to breath. So we do exactly the opposite as plants: we eat green (vegetables, fruits, wheat, nuts,...; thus we eat stored solar energy) and we breathe oxygen in. Out of this we produce energy to move and to keep our body on temperature. And we exhaust CO2 and H2O. So, solar energy is first stored in plants, and then we eat these plants to release that solar energy in our body. We are running on "indirect solar energy". Any process that consumes oil, or gass, and that produces CO2, greatly helps the growth of trees and plants. CO2 is the most important life-gas on earth, without which no life would be possible. So, don't feel bad when you need to burn oil, gas or plastic. As long as you burn it cleanly, without producing too much sooth and particles. You are greening the planet and improving life. Long ago, the whole earth was covered in green. But bit by bit, the leafs felt on the ground, and all this carbon got entrapped under the surface of the land, in the form of coal, brown coal, oil and gas. So it could no longer be part of the life cycle. Today there is not enough carbon in the life-cycle anymore, on the surface, so life is dying. We should dig up all this entrapped carbon (coal, oil, gas,...), and burn it so it can be part of the life-cycle again. And so that we can make the whole earth green again. Yes, I know that my vision is not "politically correct", but it is definitely and absolutely scientifically correct. Life is dying because of lack of CO2: there is only 0.03 to 0.04%. Below 0.02%, plant growth is no longer possible. We are at the lower edge, plants are in CO2-hunger, and we need to dramatically increase CO2 output to survive. You can easily search for, and verify these things. This is basic high-school science. So, clearly, plastic is a very good product, even if not perfect. As long as you don't throw it in the environment, but you recycle it or cleanly burn it to regain its energy. Don't feel bad for using plastic, and for burning gas and oil. Don't feel bad for improving plant life and saving the earth.
  4. Die Funktion oder Option Print Thin Walls ist für vertikale Wände gedacht, bei dir sind es aber eher die horizontalen Bereiche die nicht geslict werden. Du kannst versuchen mit der Layer Höhe runter zu gehen und dann schauen ob die mit gesliced werden. Bei vertikalen Linien oder Wänden bist du trotz der Funktion "Print Thin Walls" von der Physik und vom Düsendurchmesser abhängig. Wenn du nun eine sehr dünne Linie mit z.B. 0.2mm hast und eine 0.4mm Düse, dann wird zwar versucht diese Linie trotzdem zu drucken, aber irgendwo ist dann auch die Grenze wo es nicht mehr geht. Dann müsstest du auf kleinere Düsen wechseln, wie 0.25 oder noch kleiner. Aber wie gesagt dein Problem könnte mit einer kleineren Layer Höhe z.B: 0.1 oder 0.06 gelöst werden können. Die Druckzeit steigt dann allerdings ziemlich an.
  5. Was running Cura 3.6. Downloaded the Cura 4.3 update. During the install of 4.3 an option to uninstall the old 3.6 version popped up. I chose yes, but was given the "unable to uninstall Cura 3.6. Would you like to install 4.3 anyway?" I chose Yes Cura 4.3 installation completes. I am prompted to "Launch Now" at the end of the installation. I choose "Yes" and I am faced with this error message: I run as Admin (even though I am an admin) and the same message. I have engineers needing to run this program on a company computer. I figure I will just run the old 3.6 version.: I choose Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 (has been running perfectly since March until now) I now cannot open the OLD version and get the same error: I have been searching through forums for 2+ hours and have tried everything. The compatibility mode solution, the uninstaller does not work from either program file or the control panel, I have check the Security Tab under properties and I have full control. Please help!!
  6. -Sven-

    Druckkopf 0,4 / 0,8

    @DirgDiggler ja habe ich. @alle danke für eure Hilfe. Ich habe heute von einem Kumpel einen Druckkopf leihweise bekommen. Es ist zwar einer von 3D-Solex mir 0,8 Düse, das sollte aber ja keine Rollen spielen. Nach den ersten Probedruck, hat sich das Thema 0,8er Kopf für mich erstmal erledigt. Der Druck wurde zu grob. Gruß Sven
  7. What updates? I don't think there have been updates in a few years. I see two possibilities: 1) You updated the firmware on the UM2 whatever you updated to, it sounds like you need to do a "factory reset". It's in the menu system on the UM2 series printers. A lot of these values such as "purge height" are stored in eeprom and usually they are carried forwards properly but not always. A factory reset will reset the purge height properly but you will lose some other stuff. But that's what you get for doing a firmware update 😉 2) You updated cura If this happened after a cura update then your machine settings are probably wrong. In the top there are three things related: "PREPARE PREVIEW MONITOR". Go to prepare, look at the choices for printers in the top left corner. If there are 2 um2 printers in there be careful you always know which you are using. Then go into "manager printers" then "machine settings" and make sure it is not in Marlin mode - you want gcode flavor to be "ultimaker2" and then make sure the boxes below that are all empty (the start and end gcodes). After fixing this reslice.
  8. Hallo, Ja, die Frage nach den Dienstleistern hat sich damit erledigt. Meine Absicht war es relativ kleine Strukturen für Beschläge zu drucken. Auch nach mehreren Umkonstrutionen (bei der die Größe auf die maxiale Größe gebracht wurde) . wurde nicht die gewünschte Qualität und Festigkeit erreicht. Es wird jetzt ein reguläres Spritzgussteil mit Aluminium-Bauteilen kombiniert. Grüße, Hans-Peter PS: Drucker ist noch zu haben.
  9. With new updates the nozzle on 2+ and 2+EX dives directly into purge pile. I usually wipe with a small brush when it starts but now the clearance is gone. Saw the above picture with wire and came up with simple fix of my own. Using a thin wire brush and a couple paper clips (heavy duty - see picture) they hold the brush just fine and grab the purge blob. There will only be an issue if I have to utilize the area directly in purge pile. (program accordingly) Suggest 3mm or smaller brush. Does wipe the nozzle just a bit which is nice, too.
  10. Today
  11. Okay, I guess that'll have to be figured out then. It's mainly the 2 cylinders, on their side that are really ugly when they come out, it's essentially not a closed print so water and stuff could get inside. Those 2 cylinders are touching the bottom of the plate, currently blue tape, perhaps I'll try to do it with a 90*C bed just bare glass and see what happens. I like the idea of doing my own supports as well. Thank you.
  12. Can I ask anyone to try to use this model and see if the same problem exists in your Cura installation? Is it a problem in Cura software, or my installation of Cura, or maybe it's some problem with the model itself?
  13. You will have to do that in a 3D-CAD program. Cura is a slicer, not a 3D-editor.
  14. I have no solution for a smooth bottom plate on top of supports, for a single-nozzle printer (like my UM2). The underside where the support was, is always a bit rough. Except design changes: cutting the model in half, printing both halves on their flat cut side, and glueing both parts together afterwards. But you will see the seam. Or making the model asymmetrical, so that one side can be laid flat on the glass without need of support (if the design or function allows this). I once made testpieces for supports to try to minimize this roughness, and still be able to get the support off. A custom support with ribs gave the best result, but some roughness is still there. (See pic below: the numbers indicate the vertical gap in mm between the support ribs and the underside of the top plate. The ribs are 0.5mm, separated 1mm.) For testing, I recommend making a design with only the features under test, for example when testing the clamps, only print these clamps without the rest. Until you get this perfect. Idem for the supports: make a small test plate with just that. So you don't waste too much material and time.
  15. Hallo Community, ich habe Modelle mit dünnen "Wänden", eher Linien. In Cura werden diese beim Slicen nur als Schatten dargestellt und nicht als normale Layer Schicht. Nun gibt es ja die Option "Print Thin Walls". Ich dachte, dass hierdurch alle im Modell vorhandenen Linien mit gedruckt werden, egal wie dünn diese sind. Eben dann mit Düsendurchmesser. Da habe ich mich scheinbar geirrt. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit in den Einstellung, dass diese auch beim slicen erfasst werden, oder gibt es da gewisse Grenzen? Das Programm erkennt diese Strukturen ja scheinbar, schließlich stellt es diese ja als Schatten da. Als Beispiel hab ich mal unten ein Bild eingefügt. In diesem Beispiel fehlen dem Drachen die Flügel. In der STL Datei sind die Flügel vorhanden. Hoffe Ihr könnt mir weiterhelfen.
  16. I second scott's request. depending on what you are printed the bounding box is not enough.
  17. Yes, I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2 which does have a glass bed, I just put blue tape on it for some unknown reason. Perhaps straight glass would be the answer?
  18. Most people here are used to a very smooth surface on the bottom due to the glass plate Ultimaker printer print onto. I guess you refer to a non-Ultimaker printer?
  19. Hey Guys. How do you get the bottom of your print to be like the top? I have Iron enabled in Cura and the top comes out, really, really nice but the bottom that's adhered to the bed does not. Is there a feature or a way to make it come out nicer?
  20. Today I used the REST API to upload custom GUID and existing updated GUID profiles to achieve generic PLA colours in the material station, for now they have to be defined as new "types" of filament, not just a colour, but it works well with the generic PLA xml settings.
  21. Hi johnse, My test model details is various. This is Testman on Thingiverse. I created a model on 3D with different STL quality. No differences between them. Right surfaces are OK but curves show smalls over extrusions. It seems it occure on layer change. I use CURA 4.3.0 I tried : - enable retraction on layer change - heater change 190 to 210°C - speed change - model change I don't know what to do anything 😞 Thank in advance for your help.
  22. Good to hear it improved, do you have a Z offset for your PETG? Ridgid INK. Matterhackers and some other people highly recommend it, some even require it to print PETG. I haven't done it with my PETG prints but perhaps it would help for you, just offset it by 0.02 MM which will keep the nozzle a little more clear of any already laid down plastic, which in turn should help reduce the blobs.
  23. Interesting, perhaps I should try that. It works great for me to start with a cold bed and glue and once it gets the first layer down, crank the heat up. But I like the idea of a no hassle type printing. Now it seems I got this problem somewhat cracked (pun intended) due to the diameter of the cylinders snapping on, the inside would have a hollow spot and due to how small or slim that hollow spot was, it wouldn't infill it very well SO I increased the wall count from 4 to 6 which then maxes out the walls in that cylinder so it's "solid" which increased the strength of that piece by a chunk, to the point where I need channel locks to snap it onto a rail now. For some reason, when I print the complete part, one side snaps, I've printed 2 different ones now and both had 1 side which snapped, so I tried increasing the I.D of the cylinders to give it a little more room, only by 0.2 MM so hopefully that does something. But it seems like it's getting there, got a whole box filling up of failed prints, lol. One thing I would like to solve is how do I get the same look and feel of the top when it's ironed (Enabled iron in Cura) on the bottom where the brim is? Is there a way to do that? I tried increasing bottom layers and changing the pattern but it doesen't do much, it's still open which I don't like. Thank you for helping me here Geert, I appreciate it.
  24. Apologies, here are the files in question. output-12.gcode output-12.stl
  25. Morning gents and ladies. Having a bit of an issue with Cura and slicing a cursive lower case 'j' from an .stl file. A bit new at using a 3D printer, but tried enough to get the gist of what I'm doing. I've tried different cursive fonts of the letter 'j' as well (all with different .stl files, just in case the file had an issue), but the result is always the same. Am I missing a setting somewhere that could cause this? The print size is on the order of about 9 cm, and thus far I've had no problems with any of the other letters with loops. Thanks for the help!
  26. Wow .. for me this is completely unworkable .. any print with this kind of ribbling is plain ugly :-/. Especially when you see what my UM3 was capable of (which was perfect).
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