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  2. Does this plugin work with non-UM printers? I am using CURA 3.6 currently. Yesterday I installed the available z-offset add-on from "Marketplace". I entered 0.1mm Z offset. My reprap delta printer (Folgertech 2020) homed, moved to the bed and then rose 200mm (or so) and started printing in the middle of the air. The front panel told me it thought it was a 0.1mm. It should have said 0.28mm, .1mm higher than my first layer setting. Currently this printer is running an older Marlin version. It is possible that the g-code was not recognized or perhaps was misinterpreted by the firmware. I plan on updating to the most recent Marlin and trying it again. Thanks, DLC
  3. Thank you ahoeben! That is exactly what I was looking for. What is that long list of "plugins" I found in Contents/Resources/plugins/plugins? None of those seem to appear in Extensions > Post Processing under post processing scripts.
  4. I have been having issues with our work UM3 and PVA being left out too long due to projects starting and going. To reduce these issues we have a Polymaker Polybox to store the PVA Filament. That box comes with a rather baldy sealed pipe/filament guide tube Luckily our work has a full range of Festo, SMC, Swagelok etc parts so I have raided the bins and got a SMC 6mm PFA pneumatic pipe and screw in fittings, that i have tapped into the polybox. The issue is that at the extruder the plastic pipe just jambs up against, the back. Is there a model available for upgrade extruder casing to be better sealed and fit a standard pnumatic fittings? This will keep the filament dry as it goes into the Printer so would prefer something more sealed up. Do you think a bondtech upgrade would help? I am an engineer so don't mind getting some CAD out but thought i would ask before reinventing the wheel. Is there an anti kink tubing mod for a bowden tube to prevent the PVA filament winding itself up? I am sure i have seen something like this for a creality. This may sound like a random bit of question but i would rather not have to worry about unloading the PVA from the printer all the time and just leave it there for weaks safe in its dry box and sealed up path to the extruder.
  5. Hi all, I was just curious if there are any aftermarket PrintCores available for the UM3 that allow you to swap nozzles? Thanks in advance!
  6. Today
  7. Hey there, Working with Ultimaker s5 and Ultimaker Cura 3.6. Is the print history feature available yet? If so, I can't figure out how to access, any help would be awesome. I'm trying to monitor my prints and their times pretty closely on this machine but have a few prints that I forgot to document. Thanks!
  8. I hope you speak a bit of English. As far as I know, almost all magnets lose their magnetic characteristics at elevated temperatures, because the iron (or other) magnetic particles become looser and their alignment changes into random. For neodymium this is around 80...90°C if I remember well (but verify it, as I could be wrong). 3D-printing is done above 200°C... So, I think you would need to print a magnetisable material, and then later turn that into a permanent magnet by exposing it to a very strong magnetic field. I don't know how that is done exactly, maybe at somewhat elevated temperature? Probably you can Google how permanent magnets are made? Or maybe you could use a magnetisable material, for example iron-filled filament, and then put some very strong permanent magnets close to the nozzle (but out of the heat), so they align the freshly printed particles while still molten, during the printing? So that when cooled, they keep that orientation? Not sure if this would work, but it might be the easiest method to try. Use an abrasive-resistant nozzle for this.
  9. What is wrong with using the search&replace functionality?
  10. Hallo Forum, ich bin auf der Suche nach einem eigenmagnetischem Filament. Also nicht Eisenhaltiges Filament, sondern eben eines das schon einen Eigenmagnetismus hat. Ich habe gelesen, das ein Doktorand aus der Schweiz eines entwickelt hat. Finde aber keine Vertriebsinfos. Kann auch sein, das es noch nicht auf dem Markt ist. Sollte es kein eigenmagnetisches geben, dann würde ich einen Erfahrungstipp brauchen welches in einen hohen Eisenanteil hat und wie es sich drucken lässt. Drucker ist ein Ultimaker 3 Ext. Viele Grüße Michael
  11. You can right click the file name in cura and change it to whatever you want but not get rid of it entirely.
  12. This is the hole reason i would like to force people to NOT use the Imperial units and/or mix it with the metric system. It will result in mistakes and failures. Just a few examples: https://chem.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Analytical_Chemistry/Supplemental_Modules_(Analytical_Chemistry)/Quantifying_Nature/Units_of_Measure/Metric%2F%2FImperial_Conversion_Errors I think the Imperial unit are so dumb that it needs to be ban all over the world till it is erased from history. Smart people who are grown up with Imperial units hate it too but acknowledge that they are infected with it and it's hard to cure from this tumor.
  13. Hello, Is there a way to remove (or better, not generate) the filename inside gcode by cura4.0.0? ex. M117 Tail_1.0 layer: 0. Tail_1.0 is my filename. (appears with each layer change) I do not want to use the search and replace plugin. Thanks
  14. Thanks for the update. I checked with our channel manager and I can confirm a significant batch has been picked up already by 3DGBIRE. I'll ask them to ensure their entire team is up to date to make sure you get the correct information as a customer. Our apologies for the inconvenience.
  15. That's what I would prefer too, but I don't think this is going to happen any time soon 🙂 I know this approach is more expensive, but it does at least work - no matter which firmware is installed, I can easily wait for some seconds/minutes if the print doesn't fail then. Btw, the difference is not THAT big (around 0,2 seconds on my current 120 layer print). I suggest to add a dropdown field named "z Offset method" or something like that, where you can decide which ob both methods you want to use, something like: 1) `classic G92 (fast but not supported by some UM firmwares)` 2) `global offset adding (slow but robust)` You could then preselect one of both types depending on the gcode flavour.
  16. Thanks. That's not exactly what I said. What I said was that I think this needs to be fixed in the firmware. Ultimaker unilaterally decided to break support for perfectly valid gcode. Your approach, while it works, is a lot more post-processing intensive. Saving gcode files is likely going to take noticably longer, for all printers (also those not affected by the bug introduced with the S5 firmware and now backported to the UM3). I will consider adding your alternative approach only for "Griffin" flavor printers. But I would still much prefer if the actual bug is fixed.
  17. Hello community I'm printing a thin walled airplane with parts from thingyverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3205608/comments). The problem I'm having is that some small holes (on fuselage_2) are printed too small. If tried everything I could think of to reduce the retraction blobs and everything, but they still are too small. Now one approach I was gonna try was to set "horizontal expansion" to a negative value. But doing this makes all the inner structures of the model disappear (same thing as if I leave "union overlapping volumes" checked). Can anyone tell me why this happens and what I could do against it? The profile and pictures and are attached (one with horizontal expansion, one without). Thanks and best s. shiftyCuraProfile_expansion.curaprofile
  18. Yes ! Je l'ai mis en promo comme c'est le dernier en stock 😃 Le kit serait celui-ci -> https://3dsolex.com/hotend-parts/646-um2-conversion-1-75mm-nano-7072482000550.html Je peux voir avec le fournisseur ce qu'on peut faire pour toi si jamais tu ne le trouves pas ailleurs (comme tu peux le voir sur ma page -> https://osmoz3d.fr/fr/5-um2-um2?page=1 je ne l'ai pas entré en stock et il n'est pas présent :/) En tous cas n'hésite pas
  19. @osmoz3d toi aussi tu fait du 3 solex sans douane ? Et ton extrudeur bondtech est un peu moins chère, du coup il comporte quoi ton kit ?
  20. I forked the plugin since the maintainer @ahoeben told me he is not going to change the plugin to be compatible to the new firmware. here you find a compatible one: https://github.com/atar-axis/Cura-ZOffsetPlugin This fork does not use G92 but is adding the offset to every G0/G1 Z value. I opened a PR on the original project: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-ZOffsetPlugin/pull/5 Tested on UM3 with latest fw 5.2.?, works.
  21. To me this seems reasonably okay, it looks like what you could expect at 0.3mm layer height. Although there seems to be a bit of "elephant feet" at the first layers (=thick bottom). There may be other reasons, but often this is caused by a bed temperature that is a little bit too high for the material, so the first layers sag a bit. Maybe you could try to lower your bed temperature by 5°C and test if the model still sticks well? Stay with the print, in case the model would come off, so you can abort. When printing on a glass bed (I don't know what bed your printer has), we often have to find a balance between bed temp and good bonding. A too low temperature reduces bonding, and the model may suddenly pop off while printing. A too high temperature also reduces bonding: the model stays too weak, and warping forces tend to peel off the model gradually, in my tests. In both my UM2, and for PLA, the best bed temperature was the default indeed, 60°C. Although 55°C also worked usually. At 45...50°C the models would suddenly pop off. At 65...70°C they would get severe elephant feet and would be peeled off. This will differ from material to material, and printer to printer, so I recommend doing test prints at various bed temps, and definitely stay with the printer!
  22. @Guillaume777 Normalement je devais avoir ces kits la (pas encore arrivés) mais tu ferais mieux de les commander à ideato3d effectivement (du 3D Solex sans douane !)
  23. Hallo Ich suche einen UM 2 oder besser 2+ mit original Karton und Rechnung zu kaufen
  24. Pas de douane entre la Belgique et la France tu peux y aller :) Tant que c'est dans l'UE, les douanes ne font rien (merci l'espace Schengen) Même certaines choses venant de Chine ne passent pas par la douane ^^ (Ventiateurs, téléphone....) :)
  25. Merci @lekid, ideato3d est en Belgique et je ne connais si la douane opère sur tout les pays étranger auprès de la France. Merci @Julio, je suis pas en forme ce matin, j'ai oublié qu'il va falloir aussi que je passe Um3 en 1.75 ! Mon intérêt d'être en 1.75 sur toute mes machines, est de ne plus à devoir jonglé 1.75 et 2.85 avec l'extrudeuse de filament Filabot. Il y a vraiment un intérêt pour cette pièce ? Elle ne sert que de guide pour insérer le filament dans le feeder ? Peut tu partagé le stl ? Quel buse et hauteur de couche utilisait tu pour tes premiers essayes ? J'ai peut être une chance avec une buse 0.8 hauteur de couche 0.2 ou 0.3.
  26. Hi guys I have a question about the gyroid infill … i am working a piece for manucfaturing and i choose this infill because of their properties but its really hard to produce the same infill (gyroid) in Solidworks to testing the strenght of the piece There any way to do that? Because Solidworks can´t load the piece with this infill and i needed to test Thanks guys Simão Manoel
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