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  2. Ich glaube derzeit funktioniert es nur mit Marketplace Materialien, aber nicht mit selbst angelegten.
  3. Hallo G-Code Experten, neben meinem US5 habe ich einen CUSTOM FFF Printer mit Cura 4.o eingerichtet. Wenn der Druck fertig ist, hebt dieser den Druckkopf 2 mm an, und bleibt dann an dieser Stelle stehen. Um das Bauteil zu entfernen, muss ich immer die Z-Achse per Menü auf Z=175mm bewegen, was nervt. Nun möchte ich, dass der Drucker am Ende des Drucks auf Z = 175mm fährt. Einen entsprechenden G-Code kann man ja in CURA Druckereinstellungen für das ENDE Script eingeben. Ich denke, das bekomme ich hin, Jetzt kommt das Problem. Der Drucker kann, wenn ich vor dem Druck eine mechanische Veränderung mache, bis auf Z = 200mm drucken. Ohne die Veränderung nur bis 175mm. Blöd wäre, und das ist dann sicher die Praxis, dass ich ich einmal dann auf Z= 185 drucke, und das G-Code ENDE SCRIPT schiebt mir dann final den Druckkopf mit /=175 ins Bauteil. Nun wäre mein Wunsch, einen G-CODE Befehl mit einer IF Abfrage zu kombinieren WENN der Druckkopf Z unter 175mm steht, dann final auf Z=175mm fahren, ansonsten nichts tun Gib es so eine Funktion? Danke, Christoph
  4. geert_2

    line width

    This option exists in older Cura-versions, with the "minimum layer time" and "cool head lift" options. I don't know if it still exists in new versions? I tried this, but it did not work very well for me. The problem is that if the nozzle is simply moved away while waiting, the filament gets hotter and more liquid in the nozzle. So it starts leaking more, and the more liquid plastic flows differently upon starting the next layer. Further, the added heat during this waiting period, also has to be removed in the cooling cycle, so it does not really help very much. Any differences in layer printing time, or in molten filament temperature, show up as horizontal lines and deformations on very small objects. In my experience, you need a very constand flow rate, constant temperature, and thus constant layer area, for best results. But the nozzle needs to be away from the object long enough, so it has time to cool down. So, we need to print multiple models at the same time, or print a "dummy cooling tower" next to the real model. Ideally, this dummy should have the opposite layer-area as the real model, so the total area per layer is constant for the whole model. This is especially true for very small models, with 100% infill, and thus a lot of stored heat which has to be removed. When models get bigger, this is no longer required, as each layer gets enough cooling time anyway. See these pictures I made a few months ago:
  5. gromit

    water soluble

    acetone melts ABS together , is there any thing that melts Nylon together with out killing myself
  6. Hallo U-World, ich war erstaunt, dass ich in CURA 4 in der Verwaltung der Materialien, ein Filament von meinem Haus und Hof Lieferanten als neues Material anlegen kann, und kurz darauf später, über die Cloud Vernetzung, war am Display von meinem US5 das Material als Auswahlmöglichkeit beim Filament Wechsel vorhanden. Klasse dachte ich. Natürlich sofort ein zweites Material in CURA angelegt, und ich schaffe es nicht, dass ich dieses auch am Drucker als eingelegtes Material anwählen kann. Es wird am Drucker gar nicht angezeigt. 100 mal probiert, Material in Cura gelöscht, PC und Drucker Neustart,in Cura neu angelegt., Cloud Backup gefahren, Druckjob durchgeführt über Netzwerk und über Cloud. Keine Chance. Mein 2. Material wird im Drucker nicht angezeigt beim Filamentwechsel. Kennt jemand das Problem? Danke, Christoph
  7. geert_2

    line width

    Originally, I also thought so. But I got inconsistent results when measuring these extruded strands: they could be anywhere between 0.40 and 0.60mm. So, something was off, but I didn't know what. Later I saw a Youtube-video of "nozzle-developers" (I don't remember from which company), and they said this very common assumption was not true. When the plastic comes out of the nozzle, it is still molten. Molten strands of plastic usually have a strong tendency to contract. This is because during extrusion their very long molecule chains are stretched. These chains are then under a very high stress. When that stress falls away (=as it exits the extruder), the molecules tend to relax to their previous shape. So the strand gets shorter and wider. At least, as long as the plastic is still molten. This effect is similar to when you heat most plastics in a flame or with a hot air gun. Especially for thin rods that have been extruded or injection-moulded under high pressure. The width of the rod expands, but the length contracts. I haven't discoverd this, I am just echoing their findings. :-) After watching that video, I tried this on my UM2 printers. I manually fed material through a very hot nozzle (with bowden tube removed). When pushing hard, I could get sausages of up to 0.8mm to 1.0mm, out of this 0.4mm nozzle. When extruding manually at very low temperatures, barely above melting temperature, and at very low speeds/pressures, the expansion is far less, and I usually got to ca. 0.45mm. So you can not use the extruded sausage-diameter as an accurate reference of the nozzle diameter, only as a crude estimation. A better way to measure the inner diameter might be to use copper wire strands, clean the tip (often deformed after cutting it), and then try which ones fit into the nozzle. And then measure the width of these strands with calipers. I have grinded down a soft steel injection needle, and use that. I made it for the purpose of cleaning, but I also used it for measuring. The needle tip of 0.39mm could easily get into the nozzle opening, but a bit further where the needle was still its original 0.41mm, it could not get into the nozzle anymore. So, given the +-0.01mm accuracy of my calipers, and my imperfect sanding of the needle, nozzle opening was quite accurate. Today, a couple of years further, the same needle easily goes up into the nozzle all the way, and it still has some play at 0.41mm, so the nozzle has worn out a bit. If you mathematically want to calculate volume, when feeding electronically via the feeder, you also have to account for the partial slipping of the feeder wheel. The feeder bites into the filament and deforms it. At low speeds and low pressures, these are nice square indents. But at higher speeds and pressures (=more mechanical resistance), the feeder has to push much harder, and instead of squares, these indents become stretched, long diamonds. You can see this deformation under a microscope. So, the effective amount of fed-through material is less than calculated, due to this "partial slipping". To compensate, you need a higher flow-rate. Due to the huge amount of other variables involved, I wouldn't know how to accurately predict or calculate all this. So I use the good old and proven, "trial and error", and use that experience as stable starting point. Any method that gives good results, is a valid method. :-) What I often do for new materials (but you could also do it for new nozzles), is remove the bowden tube and manually feed some material through the nozzle. Then I adjust temperature on the fly, and watch and feel how it melts and flows. This gives me some feeling for the material (or nozzle). Then I print a couple of test pieces, starting from the default values, and on the fly I adjust speed, temp, flowrate up and down, to get an idea of the edges up till where it still works fine, and where it starts to go wrong.
  8. Hallo -Ultimaker World, Ostern habe ich meinen ersten _Ultimaker, einen S5 in Betrieb genommen, und nach Installation der Ultimaker APP auf meinem iPhone immer Status Nachrichten auf mein iPhone oder die Apple Watch bekommen. Seit gefühlt einer Woche bekomme ich keine PUSH Nachrichten mehr. Natürlich in der APP die Einstellungen überprüft, Neustart, usw - keine PUSH. Kennt jemand das Problem? Danke, Christoph
  9. I am not sure what you mean by 'just stick'. I have not tried to weld Nylon before, but, it is a plastic and as far as I know, all plastics can be welded.
  10. gromit

    water soluble

    Thank for reply I mainly use ABS best result weld easily hard ect. Can you weld Nylon together or just stick
  11. Today
  12. I thinhik the UM Breakaway material would be your best bet in general. I do not know of any water soluble material that works with ABS. And, believe me, I tried. Works great with Nylon though.
  13. gromit

    water soluble

    I have 2+ which work very well, Even though i am just a hobbyist ,i am always printing stuff . Look to invest in 3. I use ABS on most of my project ,Easy to weld together (c3h6o), and if want to change design part don't have to print the whole thing . SO can you use water-soluble with ABS/Nylon/est, OR rather what material are compatible with Water-soluble.I have looked at some videos,but looks like using PLA. If i could use water-soluble with ABS ,I would not have to compromise on design.
  14. The first location should be correct. I see you're building everything in 32-bit, are you sure you've also build libArcus as a 32-bit library? The error seems to indicate that this might be the reason that it's 'considered' but not actually used.
  15. Hallo und danke für die schnelle Antwort.😁 Hab den Gcode für den test druck und das Profil mit rangehängt. Hoffe das passt so und man kann was raus lesen. Test 2 Farbig.gcode Cura Profil.curaprofile
  16. Perhaps also take a look at the 'Equalize Filament Flow' setting?
  17. I feel sad to hear that the attempted fix didn't work. The change did sound like a promising hypothesis. Thanks for sharing the log files. The good news is we can exclude several causes now. The bad news is that we'll have to dig deeper and probably will come with another firmware with new logging messages to discover where it goes wrong. It seems to go wrong at system startup where the WiFi hardware does not make itself known on the USB bus. Fixing this WiFi connection problem has our priority and we are working hard on it.
  18. Es tritt aber bei PLA auf, weil PVA kann andere Gründe haben. Wenn PVA zu lange an der Luft liegt, dann wird es zu "feucht" und zu weich
  19. @yellowshark that was my stop gap solution. But it felt like defeat so I wrote a Post Processing Script to sort it. Early tests going well 🙂
  20. Just noticed that somebody else has the same problem as me. Unfortunately I can´t find a file named "cura.cfg" on my machine......
  21. Hello, I have a Windows10 laptop and Cura just ran fine until a few days ago. Since then Cura 4.0.0 won´t start anymore. I already reinstalled, rebooted etc. several times. When I click on Cura it looks like it´s starting but the GUI doesn´t come up. I can see the Cura process in the Task Manager, but no GUI. Anybody else having that problem? Any solutions? Herbert
  22. Well I suppose everything you say, under certain circumstances, is correct. BUT if your printer is setup correctly and your slicer settings are correct/optimum, then you are wrong. Under these circumstances if your nozzle is physically 0.4mm and you have specified line width as 0.4mm then that is what you will get; it does not matter what layer height or print speed you are using. If the line width were not 0.4 then you would not get a perfect finish and would probably get some minor dimensional errors. One caveat; the faster you go the less accurate you become and the lower quality you get. This is not something I have researched but I had always figured that was a mechanical issue. Somewhat like a car going around corner, the faster you go the more understeer you get, assuming the car has been setup to understeer which is the case with all family/saloon cars etc.
  23. Go to %APPDATA%/cura/4.0 and remove cura.cfg
  24. ich müsste mal über sd karte drucken, wenn es dann geht, weiß ich bescheid...hab ich zwar noch nie gemacht, aber teste ich nachher mal...
  25. Weißt was ich langsam glaube, ich habe einen defekt im usb anschluß des umo‘s. der kabelzugang zum umo ist total locker und wackelt ziehmlich. könnte also sein, dass er ab und zu für kurze zeit einfach den kontakt verliert? wie könnte ich das denn reparieren? muss ich eine neue buchse einlöten...ich les grad hier im forum, dass hier auch einer so ein ähnliches problem hatte bei seinem um2... ich hatte vor kurzem schon das problem, dass ich keine verbindung herstellen konnte... ich überprüf das nachher gleich mal...
  26. No, sorry, I don't. I know the camera can do 1600x1200 because when the UM3 was being developed I working for Ultimaker. Back then I was involved in getting the stream visible in Cura. But I know very little about the firmware (or the exact hardware, actually). Edit: I would not be terribly surprised if the camera were at least very similar to this one (since the linux board it interfaces with is an Olimex A20): https://www.olimex.com/Products/Components/Camera/CAM-GT2005/
  27. Na, das Problem sind nicht aneinander haftende Schichten und die resultierenden Filamentwölkchen. Ob da zu wenig extrudiert wird oder die Schichten weiter auseinander als berechnet sind - was ist die Ursache? Fährt er tatsächlich meinetwegen 100 mm hoch wenn Du ihm das in Pronterface sagst? Wenn alle Achsen stimmen und auch die Extruder-Steps bleiben noch Filament-Durchmesser und Düsendurchmesser. Eigentlich ist doch alles überprüfbar. 😀
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