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  3. Wow - that stl file has a LOT of triangles for just a barrel. I'm not sure if you need that many triangles for all that wood grain and if they will all be visible. I would probably reduce the number of triangles just so that I could work with the object faster in CAD. But that won't help your issue. So I looked at your STL file in xray mode in cura and there is lots of red - particularly at each of the metal bands. You have surfaces just hanging in air that don't connect to anything solid. That might be the only problem - not sure. What CAD are you using? Most cad programs won't let you do this. Most CAD programs deal only with solids but some cad programs like sketchup let you deal with surfaces which is unfortunate as surfaces are unprintable unless they are connected together to make solids. I think you are going to have to "go inside" your model and remove the extra surfaces. Also some CAD programs that let you deal with surfaces let you paint the surface as "inside" or "outside" the solid. For example a cube would have 6 faces and you have to tell sketchup to make the outer surfaces the "outside". Sketchup isn't smart enough to do it all alone. This "outside" versus "inside" property ends up in the STL and if the top rim of your barrel has it backwards it can confuse cura. What CAD do you use? You can also repair this model using netfabb's free service on the web. That's a quick solution. It's free but you have to create an acocunt. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
  4. Aye, it would seem that way... I included the .3mf in my previous post, and I'm including the .STL here. I made the model in blender. I've tried merging my objects together into a single object thinking that might solve it, but no luck. How do I go about making it watertight? Nero_Barrel_3.stl
  5. This looks like classic 'non-manifold' or 'non-watertight' issues. It looks as though Cura is trying to close up edges it thinks are proper connections. I agree that the .3mf file is needed, but also the model as it is as well be to be definitive about the issue. This would be the .stl or .obj type and not a cura file. Also, did you download or did you make it? What program?
  6. bonjour didier merci pour ton intérêt ,oui c'est vraiment bizare c'est apparut d'un seul coup et uniquement sur mes fichier enregistrer avec fusion et oui des fichier qui fonctionnaient sont détectés comme invalides maintenant .... tu vois un peu comme si j’utilisais un logiciel en utilisation limité !!! sur cura j'arrive a ouvrir d'autres fichier telechargé sur le net alors c'est certainement au stade de l'enregistrement du fichier en stl avec fusion ??? j'utilise la version 4.2.1 de cura
  7. Hi, in the material-settings for each material, there are two entries for material cost and spool weight, which have to be filled for EACH material you are using. Cura then tells the length of filament on the specified spool and the cost per meter. With these parameters set, the costing is displayed under the estimated print time. Regards
  8. Oh sorry, I thought I did! My bad! I looked through the forums and found that it might be that the model isn't water tight? I still don't quite get why it's just the top/bottom that's having issues.... Barrel.3mf
  9. So i had a short on my little 5v back fan (ptfe coupler fan) on my Ultimaker 2. It caused a short and essentially fried my 5v connection on my v 2.1.4 board. What parts do i need to buy / replace to get this board working again ? From the schematics i found I believe I need to replace Transistor t100 on the 2.1.4 motherboard with a bc817 transistor. Can someone who knows alot more about schematics verify that information please. Thanks
  10. Hello @cHubbz, please save the project file (File -> Save) and attach the resulting .3mf file to this thread so it can be investigated. Thanks.
  11. Ive searched high and low trying to figure out how to get a costing on Cura, Can anyone point me in the right direction
  12. I cannot answer all your questions, but the UM2 or UM2+ (after the upgrade) is one of the best printers. I recently bought a used UM2+ Extended and the print quality is great, when not the best of all my printers. I would buy the 2+ Extrusion upgrade kit, there is not only the complete print head included, but also the rods, and important the plus feeder which is a great enhancement. If it is worth to repair this machine is hard say, but check what a used one costs in your area and then check what you have to pay for the spare parts. On the other side, if you invest now in new spare parts, they are new, from another working used one you don't know how good they are. I don't know if the extrusion stepper is the same, but if not, a new stepper is not expensive, I think I have seen a new one for € 20.-
  13. Thanks for this gread solutions 👍 I will test it this day's 🙂
  14. You are welcome, I was also wondering the first time I used the thread function, why there is on thread in the STL 🙂
  15. Hi there! I'm having a wierd issue trying to slice a miniature barrel. For some reason, CURA removes pretty much all detail from the top and bottom of the barrel, and I can't figure out why. The divots between the planks on the top are about 1mm deep, meaning that they should show up in print. Wierdly, the top isn't entirely smooth, as there are some slight indentations, although these don't seem to line up with the model at all. I've encountered this issue once before, and I never was able to solve it then. Hopefully someone here can make sense of it! I'm using Cura 4.2.1. Cheers!
  16. During a clean up, my work was throwing out an old Ultimaker 2 that broke down and had been used as spare parts to maintain the other printers. My boss offered for me to take it home instead of throwing it in the bin which I accepted. I am tying to work out whether it is worth salvaging, it ran 24/7 for around 3 years, so alot of things are broken or missing. I am not sure if the cost of replacement is worth the hassle, particularly because I don't know all of the issues. Known issues: *The heatbed was not working (I don't know the exact issue) *The X-Axis motor was not working *The whole Hotend Assembly is missing *The touch screen was broken (I have repaired this) *The encoder/knob was broken (I believe I have repaired this) I have just fixed the screen and it powers up to an error "Stopped temp sensor". This is presumably because the Hotend assembly is completely missing. So my questions are: *Given the symptoms above (and potentially more) is it worth saving? *Is there anyway I can bypass the temperature sensor error to see what else is wrong? *Is it worth getting the "2+ Extrusion upgrade kit", versus just buying the hotend assembly outside of the kit? *If I did get the extrusion upgrade kit can I use the old extrusion stepper to replace the faulty x-Axis stepper?
  17. Thanks. Shortest and sharpest corner are both fixed Z lines like user specified. If i pick random it creates alot of travel moves. Is there a way to nudge it a bit every layer without creating travel moves? Like with "wipe nozzle" on simplify3d I can wipe nozzle on Cura too but it stays on the same point.
  18. You can set the Z Seam alignment to random if you want it distributed over your object.
  19. Have you checked the checkbox in Fusion during thread creating, that you want the thread in the body? By default the thread is shown (as reference) but not included in the body!
  20. Strange, I get there codes: Start: G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 Z0 ;move Z to bottom endstops G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to endstops G1 X15 Y0 F4000 ;move X/Y to front of printer G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform to 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... End: M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning ;Version _2.6 of the firmware can abort the print too early if the file ends ;too soon. However if the file hasn't ended yet because there are comments at ;the end of the file, it won't abort yet. Therefore we have to put at least 512 ;bytes at the end of the g-code so that the file is not yet finished by the ;time that the motion planner gets flushed. With firmware version _3.3 this ;should be fixed, so this comment wouldn't be necessary any more. Now we have ;to pad this text to make precisely 512 bytes.
  21. Hi. I want to slice a cylinder with Cura but i don't want all my layers to start at the same straight Z line. How am i gonna to achieve that ?
  22. I have submitted the PR(s) for these changes. All we can do now is wait...
  23. Hello, Im fairly new to Ultimaker and Cura, I have a design that incorporates a thread, when loading the STL into cura, the thread dose not show. is it still there ?
  24. This now has almost all the stuff glued into the Desk. The pieces not glued are not present in the image. The wall also has the shield, ram's skull, manacles and antique style bone saws affixed. Now that these pieces are put together, I can see where to do some colour work to make these things 'pop' out a bit better without becoming a distraction. The desk is not glued down to the floor as I still have a bit more floor work to do and it will just be easier. I also will not have to worry about breaking things when I touch up the previously mentioned areas.
  25. I'm detecting elder abuse! I'm an old tool and die maker. I've been using Cubify Design that will create in inches or Millimeters. Us old guys know the entire scale of 1/64 to 1" in 64's (at least I did). I can look at a size and guess the dimension fairly close, so a 5/16" diameter is how many mm? I have to do the conversion from .312 divided by .03937 or .04. Designing in inches is easy, but designing in mm requires constant mental conversions. So, just in case you didn't understand why us fossils have not changed to mm - now you know. There is a big benefit of using both mm and inch when it comes to screws. If a threaded hole is stripped out you can probably find a size in between and save the part. I'll close with the industrial revolution was in inches, courtesy of England. Thanks for writing the plugin - I'll try it out! I've got Cura V2.7.0 and 4.2.1 loaded.
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