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  1. Today
  2. I ended up increasing flow to 115% for the first layer after resuming and also leaving the cooling fan off for the first two layers after resuming. That seems to have fixed my adhesion issues with the TPU. Hopefully a moderator will still look at the layer issues discussed above with this extension.
  3. Thanks, just installed it and did a test run, doesn't export the temp calls. going to run a test print this week.
  4. Hi samc99us, Sure there is, just open your gcode (the actual one, that's saved to be printed) file in Cura (here Cura 4.6.1). Cura will open the model in sliced mode, so you can only view it manually or replay it. The later versions of Cura will open with selected filament color and shows colored lines or different colored lines if there is some width that's use several lines. Inner wall, infill, outer wall etc. Suppose you use gray PLA, then your model will appear gray if you drag down the layer number slider bar on the right side. If you then pres start replay, the start point where it start printing will be the layer shift point. In multi layer walls it is not easy to see the seam, as this is more a problem for single wall print and here it will be very easy to see the seam. Cura may start with any of the lines in a multi line wall, but at the same point. In your model there's two sharp angels Cura might use, but the one I've used here is on the right side. So, here is a picture of the whole issue, using Cura 4.6.1: (This actual picture here, also show the selector panel for the various "layer type lines" with colors used.) Here you can see the start point of layer 232 -just where the green line start! If you want to find it in the gcode file, use this tool: http://gcode.ws/ (I'm using this one quite often.) I'll hope this clarify the issue. Regards Torgeir
  5. Hi, The heated bed goes under the glass, so you will need to remove the glass. Put the heated build plate in and wire it up and then install the glass back on top of it. Warming the glass up will greatly help many filament types to stick better, but still use a glue also because it protects the glass also and helps prints to be removed easy when the glass and print cools back down.
  6. A bootloader is basically a bit of software code that’s saved to the control board memory that loads up every time you power up, without this the printer will load up but does not have any code to be able to understand the request to update firmware via the USB. So it’s very likely that needs to be installed for them to be able to update via USB, but like I say it’s something where you really want to follow a good step by step and only do it if your sure you can do it right.
  7. I read that to get the print to stick to the glass I needed a bed heater. I bought one from Amazon for my xvico. I got it and my question is. Does it replace the glass, or does it meant to work in concert with the glass. One side of this thing is printed the other side is aluminum, and the same size as the glass. I don't seem to be able to get a print to stick to the glass. I've tried the glue stick, didn't make much difference. I need help.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Hi, Ive had this issue on a few version and multiple PC's that Cura seems to keep increasing the resources until its unusable and need to be reopened. I've attached pictures of the task manager of when its first opened and then after about a day. After a few hours its noticibly sluggish. Even after an hour of been open its from from the 0.3% CPU usage to 3%. Any ideas on how to fix this? PC im currently using: i7-6700 32gb ram quadro p4000 gfx card Cheers
  10. Torgeir, Yes, I get where that is entered in the Cura settings. What I'm asking is how to find that coordinate in the model...I could probably try relative and pull the coordinate out of CAD, but I'm hopeful there is an easier way within Cura. Google searching came up empty handed so maybe not.
  11. This is the kind of thing where some support from Creality would be appreciated. I installed a 1.1.5 silent board in my Pro and I think that one does come with a bootloader (whatever that is!).
  12. Salut, Avant d'incriminer de façon sure la carte mère ou le bloc alim il faut s'assurer que le connecteur d'alimentation est bien enfiché. il y'à un système de verrouillage qui semble parfois verrouillé mais qui peux ne pas l'être entièrement. Si ce n'est pas ça il faut regarder la led bleu du bloc alim pour voir si elle aussi vacille lors de la coupure.
  13. on my github, i've updated Configuration.h Configuration_adv.h pins_BTT_SKR_common.h for the latest changes. this is the configuration that my franken-UM2+ is now running on. i'm still sporadically getting a hard reset during print. not sure about the root cause of the issue, though. will exclude temperatures for now, as these are pretty constant at 60°C on the drivers and some 45°C on the processor. everything else, including the heatbed- and hotend-MOSFETs is running cooler than that ( measured 1 hour into a print). seems that the issue is gone when i do a hard reset right before a print, and is more likely to show up after a filament change and consecutive print w/o hard reset in between. idk. anyway, max speeds on x,y axes have to be diligently fine-tuned to avoid case resonances (and head resonances, especially the fan duct interacting with the hotend body, go figure!) to really enjoy the smoothness of the stepper motors on the TMC drivers. rule of thumb: to avoid resonances and at the same time maintain print quality, _increasing_ speeds may be way to go, rather than lowering them. otherwise, speed ripple of the stepper motors will bite you. for the z-axis, i can't go any higher than approx. 20 mm/s, or serious "screaming" will kick in, albeit not as nerve-wrecking as the original sound. on the other hand, the feeder is absolutely dead silent now, apart from the sporadic "cracking" on retract, that seems to be typical of the bondtech DDG that i am using.
  14. Did you check the specs of Ninjatek Eel filament? Slower speed is good, temperature of nozzle up to 250 is not good! Maybe the conductive material in the filament is clogging the nozzle... I print Ninjatek Cheetah a lot (on an Ender 3 Pro), with low printspeeds and temperature somewhere between the values in the spec!
  15. You download the installer of Cura, so normally you open this exe just once, for installing the software. Then you start Cura from the Windows Start menu.
  16. Check the settings on your Mac Cura, how you want to open project files. There is a setting to just import the model, open as project or ask every time. It seems you have the setting at import just the model.
  17. My understanding with the Ender 3 and likely the Pro also, is that it does not come with an bootloader pre-installed what is needed to be able to update the firmware via USB. So to be able to upgrade via USB you will need to flash a bootloader to the main controlboard of the printer. For this i would say it's best to check for step by step guides because you could brick the printer if you make a wrong step, you also have to have an Arduino and wire it up to the printers control board and then link the Arduino to a PC to be able to flash the bootloader to the printer.
  18. I suppose it will depend on what you're fishing for (and what actually hits!). I've thought about making some lures but I'm in Florida now and mostly it's fishing with either cut bait or shrimp.
  19. Danke für den Link. Obwohl ich Google sehr schätze/liebe usw. usw. 🤥 Hier nochmal dein Link ohne googleadservices: https://www.filamentworld.de/shop/zubehoer/duesen-nozzles/micro-swiss-duese-twinclad-xt-ultimaker3-ultimaker-s5/
  20. Hello! Using Cura on my Windows notebook, I saved a .3mf file with all information such as printer profile and print settings. I tried to open it in my Macbook and it didn't import project info, just the 3D model. To test if the problem was my Mac or the file itself, I reinstalled Cura on Windows, without any previous settings and opened this .3mf file. All project settings were loaded properly along with the 3d file. Then, using Cura on my Mac I saved another .3mf project and opened it on my Windows and it also worked fine. I use Cura version 4.6.`1 in both computers. Why isn't my Mac opening .3mf files properly? SavedOnWindows.3mf SavedOnMac.3mf
  21. the link above returns 404 Error
  22. That's great.. You can specify in the menu "Shell" where/how you can "locate" the Z seam. Just put Z in the "search setting" then Shell pop up. Hmm. By using sharpest edge, the seam is less visible at this place in your nice curved object. 🙂 Torgeir
  23. Hi Torgeir, I'm kind of using the print that is on the bed at the moment as a test. Upped the speed to 30 mm/s at the moment and it looks pretty good. A scaled down example would be useful.
  24. Why not, this is a good way to save printing time, -but now you are in experimental mode! It all depend very much of the heat transfer capacity of the hot end your printer is using. Saying so, I know nothing about your printer for sure. Your model shape should fit well in using 0.6 mm nozzle, I'll think. I would test with a smaller model with same type of shaping angles hole etc. as your original, -but can be used as a test object to tune up the parameters -with max print time say 45 min. (It is a good help in using Cura in playback mode to have an overview of the printing path. In your above example, the center of the wall line was printed 2 times, I.E. this line was kind of doubled or become to high. By studying the path of one complete layer, you could see this very well, I've never seen this before. So seeing your print was an eyeopener to me..) Well, just a thought. Good luck. Torgeir
  25. One other question, how did you determine the z-seam location in this example? Its not readily apparent, and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to grab the coordinate within Cura.
  26. To be clear - you put the M104 and the M140 before the G28? it looks like you put the M190 before the G28 and of course that won't work. The two gcodes with the "4" in them get things started but keep running to the next command (e.g. G28 - home). The codes with the "9" in them should be after the G28. They tell the printer to not proceed to the next gcode until they are completely done. If you did it right (put the "4" commands before the G28 and the "9" commands after) then it's something about your printer's firmware and you should talk to people with the same printer.
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