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  2. Don't forget that the whole idea dates back to 2013 or even earlier. Slicers didn't had so many advanced settings in the good old days and "Ultigcode" was an enhancement on top of the normal behavior of Marlin. In theory you can use the same gcode file for different types of material. Temperature, retraction settings and flow rate are handled according to the material settings on the machine. It was a pretty smart idea back then but the concept is a bit outdated, because slicing software is much more advanced nowadays (feature wise). There's a reason why Ultimaker itself doesn't use it anymore on more recent printer models. Yes, no problem - that's a good way to test things out. No, why do expect a problem? Besides the fact that Cura can be used to send firmware binaries to the printer, those two things are pretty unrelated to each other. You can use pretty much any available firmware version on the printer and feed it with gcode from pretty much any software that "speaks" Marlin. BTW: if you start "Marlin" gcode files from the sd-card, the printer will show an "override settings..." message. That's fine, it's just the indicator that the material settings on the printer are not used (which is exactly what you want). Just press "continue".
  3. Today
  4. Just out of curiousity, will it eventually include (or be separate from this plugin by venue) other model sources such as Youmagine, MyMiniFactory and others? Other than that, this is one of those ideas that is sooooo simple that nobody thought of it before. πŸ˜‚ Way cool implementation and kudos! πŸ˜ƒ
  5. I recently wanted to do this on my 2 extended+, bought a kit from 3dsolex. He also makes compatible nozzles. Several problems, the filament would not pass through the new bowden tube, it’s a thin tube inside a larger one and the thin tube would curl up. I tried to order other bowden tubes but could not find a working solution. Next problem was the feeder, it would not grab the filament. There are some plastic walls inside the feeder that prevents the wheels from touching the filament. I broke off those walls and could get it to feed. However because of the bowden tube problem I finally gave it up. Waste of time and money.
  6. As @gr5 says, there are two parts to this: Creation of model Print of model The printing of a model as you show, if I remember correctly, can only be done with a very expensive ink jet 3D printer. Info on tech There are machines that are coming out that will make it cheaper than before, but, to get the resolution you see in your example requires a not so affordable/very high resolution printer.
  7. By the way, the S5 only does 2 filaments so getting more than 2 colors in your print would be quite difficult but I've seen people do some impressive painting. Look here for example of what other people have done
  8. 1) Would there be a problem if in ultimaker Cura, I add a new printer (ultimaker 2+ extended) with Flavor Marlin separately and I leave the other configuration of Flavor Ultimaker 2? 2) If I have no problem with this kind of setting I made, I would like to know if there would be any problems regarding future firmware updates? I know it's the same Ultimaker 2+ extended 3d printer, so I guess I wouldn't have any problems, just choose any of the printers and upgrade normally on ultimaker Cura... but I'd just like to confirm that I wouldn't have no kind of conflict. Thank you
  9. No. Well maybe. If you are a very good 3D artist, then yes. If you have studied the human body as an artist for years and have practiced drawing different muscle groups and have sculpting experience, then yes. You have to learn to use a 3d sculpting cad program like zbrush but yes. If you are not a seriously amazing artist then you need a lot of photos. Like 30 to 100 photos of the person. And they can't move during this time. There are scanners you can buy that connect to an ipad that will do this - scan a person while you walk around them and capture from up high, midway and down low as you walk around the person to be captured 3 to 6 times. Or you can build a fancy thing that takes 30 pictures at once with 30 cameras all triggering at the same moment. Then with those photos there is software that will create the 3d model. But if all you have is less than 10 photos, or if the person moved while the 10 to 50 photos were taken, then back to my first answer. No.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Hi All, I'm a newbie here. Planning to buy Ultimaker S5 and have a question before I can purchase. I'm mainly buying this to print human portraits/miniatures using just photos only and will not be able to perform any scanning physically. It will be just using digital photos. Is this possible at all? Please find attached a sample image of 3d printed miniature. I'm looking to produce a similar output. Has anyone done this before and achieved success. Any suggestions or help will be really appreciated. Thanks so much! Kind regards,
  12. Hi @tinkergnome Thanks for sharing your knowledge and clarifying some things. I understand that this was thinking of having several advantages and especially the ease for users who want to plug in Scard and print something with quality and without problems. That's great! But on the other hand, when you need a little more control over 3d printing this limitation or automation turns out to be a big wall for the user who would need to set something a little more elaborate than for example a single temperature for all layers. I have been trying to read and inform myself here in the forum to understand how things work and I realized that many users when exposing the settings that were made of their respective 3d prints, these people have easy control of the 3d prints because they do not have the restriction of Flavor Ultimaker 2. I think these users use another Flavor like Marlin. I will try to move Flavor to Marlin and see if I succeed. If I realize that things are not going well, I will return to Flavor Ultmaker 2. In my opinion knowing the current print layer is very important information. With this information, if the printing stops for some reason (it happened to me two days ago and I lost a job for many hours. I was printing at 0.04mm resolution) I could research how I would return to printing on that Layer that stopped 3D printing and restart the printing process on that Layer. And so would waste no time, filament and money. With all due respect, Ultimaker could revise this policy, as the current Print Layer information would not be a superfluous detail but very useful and very important information for the user. πŸ™‚
  13. I have updated the plugin numerous times since this thread, notable features are: * Improved search * Pagination * Improved error handling (e.g. when the ThingiVerse API is down) I have just submitted a release (1.3.0, hopefully approved soon) that adds buttons for accessing popular, features, and newest things: Let me know what you want added next!
  14. With gcode flavor "Ultimaker 2" there's only one printing temperature that is used for all layers. ("initial" and "final" are only relevant for multi extrusion projects and don't matter anyway). Well, technically... the post processing script works fine and adds these M117 commands. Unfortunately the UM2 firmware just ignores them. The usual Ultimaker design policy indicates that the user shall not be bothered with superfluous details. πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ So: no luck with the standard firmware...
  15. I was starting to think about it. 😞 It would be nice to be able to see which layer Ultinaker 2+ is currently printing. But it's alright! Thanks again for clarifying things! Only tomorrow, I will start testing Flavor Marlin. I will try to expose my progress here with Flavor Marlin so that everyone can see and give their opinions. Thanks
  16. As far as I know this plugin doesn't work with Ultimaker printers, so it will also not work with the Marlin flavor.
  17. @Smithy You don't know how you are helping me with your answers! I really appreciate it! πŸ™‚ I will try the ones you posted! Thank you very much! I don't know if you could answer me, but I think it might have to do with Flavor. In the Extensions / Post Processing / Modify GCode menu there is a plugin called Display filename and Layer on LCD. I tried using this plugin on flavor Ultimaker 2, but it didn't work. The name I set and the layer on the Ultimaker 2+ LCD didn't appear. So, I opened GCode and I saw that there is code coming from this plugin: ; LAYER: 0 M117 test layer 0 But when I am printing on the LCD only appears the time and written: Time Left 0000 hours Printing: cure_object_filename Does this have anything to do with Flavor too? So does flavor Ultimaker 2 not accept these increments in GCode? Would this plugin only work with Flavor Marlin?
  18. I think so, but I haven't tried it. The gcode flavour has nothing to do with firmware updates, but UM2 will probably never get a new firmware anymore. No I don't know, but should be configured in the material profile on the printer. If not then the printer calculates these values from your given printing temperature. Probably not possible, so switch to Marlin and set it in Cura. Yes Use and try the ones I posted, I think they should work, if not nothing bad happens.
  19. @Smithy Thanks for posting the code that appeared to you. Would this code work perfectly on Ultimaker2 +? 1) If I change GCode Flavor from Ultimaker2 to Marlin, what would it be like regarding the Ultimaker 2+ Firmware update? Last week, I updated the Ultimaker 2+ firmware through ultimakerCura. If I switch to Marlin, can I continue to update the firmware normally through ultimakerCura or do I have to do something else? - Another question, switching to Marlin, do I have to immediately update the firmware again? 2) Yesterday I did a little test with Ultimaker 2+ (using GCode Flavor Ultimaker2). This time, I created a new custom material manually by the printer. I inserted the S-Card and I started printing. So, I saw for the first time that Material settings made manually by me through the printer were used (Printing Temperature = 200C, Build Plate Temperature = 60C, Retraction Distance = 5.50mm and etc). So far so good, I understand that Flavor Ultimaker2 works that way. But what I would like to understand is how or what values Flavor Ultimaker2 sets for the following functions automatically: - Default Printing Temperature - Printing Temperature - Printing Temperature Initial Layer - Initial Printing Temperature - Final Printing Temperature - Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer So what are these values that Flavor Ultimaker 2 would define? 3) Using Flavor Ultimaker 2, how would I define these specific temperature functions? 4) Using Flavor Ultimaker 2, ... and for some other functions that are hidden? In this case, just with Marlin? I am still researching Start and End GCode for Marlin that works perfectly with Ultimaker 2+. If I find it, I will make it available to everyone here who is willing to do the same as me. Thank you very much
  20. Thank you for your advise but I do not think that is the issue here. I tested it like this -> when I lower the plate by hand (when UM is off, and the on again) the error is gone. Nozzle and build plate work OK and heat up fine. If I imitate the similar forces on the wires by hand as if it was moving the build plate itself, I can't repeat the issue that way. The issue exists during the rise moment and happens at random heights, so I think its not a loose wire. Could something else alter currency in system that results in the ER02 report?
  21. If you want to spread it over the object, you can only use random and then the print head as to travel to this position. There is no option to have it "a little bit random" and with minimal travel moves. Personally I prefer to place the Z seam to a corner or position where it doesn't disturb the model or where I can easily remove it in post processing. So I mostly use "user specified" and sometimes use the expose seam settings to sand it away.
  22. Check the cable and connector at the print bed, I guess there is the problem. When you lift the bed, the bad wire has no connection anymore and the printer detects a failure in the bed temp sensor.
  23. I am having the ER02 on my Ultimaker 2+. I have checked the wires and they are OK. I can heat nozzle and I can heat the bed (so no issues to blame to wire, bed or motherboard) Problem is when the plate rises up it happens. When I restart I stays. Lowering the bed by hand makes me start it up again and all seems to work OK again, But when it raises the build plate the issue is back. The bed seems to make a 'hop' at that right moment of error. I made a short movie showing what is happening. Is this the motherboard issue? Also tried a stress test to the wires in working state by pulling and twisting it's wires to see if the wires were broken, or loose but that seems not the case. Hope someone knows what is happening and If I can solve it myself?
  24. Wow - that stl file has a LOT of triangles for just a barrel. I'm not sure if you need that many triangles for all that wood grain and if they will all be visible. I would probably reduce the number of triangles just so that I could work with the object faster in CAD. But that won't help your issue. So I looked at your STL file in xray mode in cura and there is lots of red - particularly at each of the metal bands. You have surfaces just hanging in air that don't connect to anything solid. That might be the only problem - not sure. What CAD are you using? Most cad programs won't let you do this. Most CAD programs deal only with solids but some cad programs like sketchup let you deal with surfaces which is unfortunate as surfaces are unprintable unless they are connected together to make solids. I think you are going to have to "go inside" your model and remove the extra surfaces. Also some CAD programs that let you deal with surfaces let you paint the surface as "inside" or "outside" the solid. For example a cube would have 6 faces and you have to tell sketchup to make the outer surfaces the "outside". Sketchup isn't smart enough to do it all alone. This "outside" versus "inside" property ends up in the STL and if the top rim of your barrel has it backwards it can confuse cura. What CAD do you use? You can also repair this model using netfabb's free service on the web. That's a quick solution. It's free but you have to create an acocunt. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
  25. Aye, it would seem that way... I included the .3mf in my previous post, and I'm including the .STL here. I made the model in blender. I've tried merging my objects together into a single object thinking that might solve it, but no luck. How do I go about making it watertight? Nero_Barrel_3.stl
  26. This looks like classic 'non-manifold' or 'non-watertight' issues. It looks as though Cura is trying to close up edges it thinks are proper connections. I agree that the .3mf file is needed, but also the model as it is as well be to be definitive about the issue. This would be the .stl or .obj type and not a cura file. Also, did you download or did you make it? What program?
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