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  2. Heat the nozzle using the 'set temperature' setting. This will melt the material close to the head and soften the other material making it easier to get out with needle-nose pliers. You may have to also hit it with a heat gun too. This happened to me until I found out how to really get the print to stick to the buildplate. If the model cuts loose it will get dragged around creating a plug against the nozzle leaving the new material nowhere to go but up into the printhead.
  3. hmmm ... either my faith in my ability was too strong, or it is not because of the missing path... Can the reason be that the daili builds is started not with the command "freecad" but with "freecad-daily"???
  4. @UbuntuBirdy Personally, I prefer the second answer (modifying .bashrc): https://askubuntu.com/questions/60218/how-to-add-a-directory-to-the-path PS: The new version is on its way:
  5. Today
  6. I am using the FreeCAD PPA, but the daily builds... Well, I believe it would not be too difficult to add the binary directory, if I would know where to find the $PATH environment variable...
  7. From my intern days at Ultimaker, I know that the general material properties must be there if I don't remember wrong what I saw in the firmware. I have no explanation of why the wrong temperature is applied during this procedure. I feel sorry to hear this ☹️
  8. Well, if it is not too difficult for you, then add the binary directory of your installation to the $PATH environment variable. Or (as I do) upgrade FreeCAD using the FreeCAD PPA. Currently, they deliver version 0.18.0 in it.
  9. Hmm, so there could be two ways of importing something into Cura, right? Once by using an active object, as I do now, or by looking for visible bodies. I guess the method with the visible bodies could get interesting when printing with multiple extruders.
  10. #3 could be split into: 1) gantry is bent 2) frame is bent causing gantry to be bent 3) plate is not perpendicular to vertical rods 4) vertical rods are not perpendicular to frame So our friend neotko had an issue he called "banana". One might call it "saddle". Where you can get any 3 points of the print bed level but to get 4 points level you can't because the bed is shaped somewhat like a sadle or potato chip. We'll call that "banana" here. The most common cause for severe banana is shipping - DHL and other's seem to manage to put an immense amount of weight onto opposite corners of the printer such that it is no longer a cube but trapezoidal. A bent frame will give you a banana gantry. I'd check that first. Does the printer sit flat on a table? Or does it rock? If the frame has banana then you need to loosen a lot of the frame screws and push it back into position and retighten. On extremely rare occasions back in the UMO days there were some "bad" frames where the wood shifted during cutting. Now all frames go through quality control. It's possible to order just one side of the frame. The base plate that you show as bent shouldn't matter as it connects to the heated bed through 3 points. You can't transfer "banana" through 3 points. You can just adjust the 3 screws to make the bed "level" with the gantry. The glass that comes with many UM2's (and even worse I think with UM3's) tends to be thicker in the center. But by only 1mm at the most and the amount of force to bend it flat is very small. Maybe an ounce. When I saw some banana in my glass - I "fixed" it by bending the rear 2 corners of the heated bed upwards firmly until a metal straight edge (a ruler) showed it to be level. Only after I was done did I realize that I could have damaged my heated bed - I had forgotten that the other side was a PCB heater. But it worked really well for me on my UM3. You can probably get a flatter glass from fbrc8.com. Measure the error very carefully and ask fbrc8 if you can do better with one of their glass beds for UM2. The process for making tempered glass makes it thicker in the center. You could buy ordinary window glass from your local glass place (any town that has buildings with windows has lots of glass places). You'd be amazed how cheaply you can get a piece of glass of the correct thickness and dimensions and ground smooth to remove sharp edges (probably $10). The only problem with non-tempered glass is that if it breaks the pieces are very sharp - tempered glass is designed to shatter into thousands of pieces if it breaks and it's not as dangerous.
  11. Thanks! I set „Max comb distance with no retract“ to something different than zero and it works! 🙂
  12. https://www.youmagine.com/dewayneschnell/designs https://www.youmagine.com/akhilesh871/designs https://www.youmagine.com/kindrem/designs
  13. Ik heb een TRONXY A8 Simpel in gebruik als je weet wat wat is Eerst stond cura 3.6 op de pc Die deed niks meer en toen met downloaden bleek ik cura 4 erop te hebben Na een beetje zoeken lijkt dit wat gebruiks vriendelijker In het scherm van je cm bodum staat dus boven in voorbereiden , voorbeeld , en controleren Met de 1e 2 kan je dus je object zien en met voorbereiden je object aanpassen Als je wisselt dan is je object op de ander niet meer te zien Maar op controleren zie je niets,maar wel de nozzle en bed temp,en die kan je ook aan en uit zetten Maar de g code werkt niet dus kan je wel je printer verwarmen maar dus niet printen
  14. Hello All I have been trying to fix a bed leveling issue with my UM2. All 3 points of the bed are all at very different heights and when I try to adjust the screws to get those 3 points leveled it throws the 2 back corners (where there are no screws) off being leveled. 3 possible sources of this error: 1) glass is bent 2) heated bed is bent 3) aluminum carriage (Z-axis) is not leveled. Since #3 is what everything attaches to I wanted to test that first. Long behold it was totally not straight. When I brought the build plate all the way up (with the heated bed and glass removed) all 3 points had different heights from the nozzle to the bed. Look at the 3 pictures. Is this normal or a fix for this? Thank you all for the help in advanced.
  15. I'm sorry, yes, I'm using Linux. And I don't know if the bugfix works, because I have not installed FreeCAD-stable only for the plugin. This is not an acceptable solution for me (I am a morbid perfectionist...).
  16. Is there a specific adhesion sheet that works well on the Ultimaker S5? Does this interfere at all with the bed leveling process?
  17. Hello there guys im here trying to finish this mannequin i started printing on my MakerBot Rep 2 and i said okay this is going to take way longer and allot more post processing after printing so maybe ill get a bigger printer and issue solved. Well here i am using Cura for the first time and im not happy with my results, for some reason CURA keep slicing my file but with a specific corner that doesnt want to print and the support is another issue where the nozzle keeps trying to ignore that fact that there is more room on the printers bed but refuses to use its open area so instead it simply prints over the same area over and over again as shown on fig2 another thing is the model it self, initially the model is under 10MB but after i bring it into NETFAB to run a hollowing operation it grows enormously to a whopping 300MB and i dont understand how if the model is loosing volume by becoming hollow you know?! and this is where CURA has issue i think in rendering the right sliced g code.
  18. A new version of the Z Offset setting plugin that is compatible with the S5 (and updated UM 3) is currently in review and should be available from the Marketplace soon.
  19. I really dont get why z-offset plugin is not implemented directly in Cura...
  20. @thopiekar In Freecad It seems the ActiveObject is the last created one (may be a bug) You can check it in Pyton Console with >>> App.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Name after create more body/object But it is not a problem: I think you have just to know that if you have more object/body ( say a cube and a cylinder) you must do a fusion as last step.
  21. dans le menu de l'UM3, tu peux sélectionner la fréquence de calibrage, exemple à chaque impression ou chaque semaine ou ....ou jamais
  22. solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramètres du menu, j'ai essayé de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncèlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassée durant le print. cela gênait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  23. thanks for the reply! while something i will definitely try out, i feel it doesn't reply to the question as why all inner walls should disappear? - this IMHO is a bug in cura, since there should be sufficient space and material left to slice walls in the inner of the body after a slight horizontal expansion...
  24. Recently Bought 3 Ultimaker 3 3D printers.... Having the same issue on all of them. I am unable to calibrate the X Y offset as it gives me the following error Nozzle offset probe failed. Please check the nozzles and bed and try again. The bed seems fine as single extruders are working fine and sticking correctly. I have changed the print cores , and tried. Also the extruder 2 does not extrude any material during the X Y calibration, but prints fine by itself. when the print core is changed , the extruder 1 does not extrude. I have the latest firmware installed. I am having the issue on all 3 machines.
  25. Oh my God that is very very grateful. You saved me!
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