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  1. Past hour
  2. Hmm, that is strange, I never had to restart the printer itself. So I guess the printer has lost the network connection for whatever reason.
  3. Solved... I resoldered the smd-thermistor (PT100) as the guy in the youtube-video and now it seams to be fixed (i am printing now over 2 hour's without problems). While the heat bed was "cold" the PT100 worked fine, but when i gets warm the values (ohm) wets wired (i tested it carefully with a heatgun). Opticly everything looked fine and in "cold" condition i wasn't able to get wrong values (pushing on it from different directions and so on...). so not knowing if it helps i just put two ugly solder-clumps on both sides of the PT100 and from that point on i wasn't able to reproduce the problem.
  4. Today
  5. Having the same issue here! Also using the A10M and as long as i dont switch the extruders its all good. I am using Cura 4.0.0 can someone help`?
  6. OMG! Swiss spam!!! Somehow I have a bad conscience now... https://www.youmagine.com/stevenbalmer/designs
  7. Hello @nubnubbud. In theory it's just a matter of cloning the cura-build-environment repo and following the instructions to build that and then cloning the cura-build repo and following the instructions to build that. However, I have found that I cannot build a working cura using the master branches of those repos. In my forks of those repos I have my own branches that I work from (mb-linux, mb-windows and mb-osx). I am no longer able to build a working OS X binary but the mb-linux and mb-windows branches work with the current master branches of the cura sources. So, you could try cloning my repos and trying to build from them. See https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build-environment and https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build. Hope this helps.
  8. I have attached a newer file in a .zip this time. This file needs to be placed in (assuming the default installation location): C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.0\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts You will see all the other scripts if you are in the right place. I have also attached (in a .zip) the Gcode file for a 3DBenchy generated on my system using Cura 4.0, Tevo Terantula, with pauses at layer 10, layer 20, and height 3.3mm (approximately layer 30). There are lots of parameters to be set with this version of the script and the defaults should do something sensible but you will have to experiment. PauseAtHeightorLayer3.zip TT_3DBenchy.zip
  9. I've been trying to build the program so I could add some functionality that's sorely needed, but I've been sitting here for 2 days, building dependency after dependency, so that I can use those to build the dependencies for cura's dependencies, only to learn something is wrong from an indecipherable error. I'm at wit's end and now is as good a time as ever to ask: What am I doing wrong, from a technique standpoint? am I using the wrong build? why are there 4 different ways to build it, and which is the correct/current one? do I build the environment, and how do I manage that when following the directions don't produce any results? do I build all the dependencies manually like it says in the other guides?
  10. I understand keeping the tower the same height, but when it switches for the next color change on the 1st layer it never goes to the prime tower, it just switches and prints the mixed color in the model.
  11. You have set a Change at Z-Height (Extensions - Post Processing - Modify G-Code), you set the temperature at layer 1 to 210 °C, the default print temperature is at 205 °C. I would remove the Change at Z-Height, that doesn't make sense to me. Another cause may be the activated cooling fan, I would uncheck that and give it another try.
  12. Thanks ahoeben, Now I found it. But for some reason under Ubuntu Gnome the menu bar does not look like it is part of the application, may be because of the large Cura logo band just below the menu bar is overwhelming it. See attached image I spent two day looking for a way to access the Extensions Menu but did not see the menu bar in spite of it is in front of me. Thanks anyway for your quick response.
  13. That's a great looking piece of work. Thanks for showing me the way you've used different solutions.
  14. hi peterbrown77 I now have the same problem. How do you fix it? Thank you
  15. tomnagel

    S5 Active Level

    In firmware release 5.2, Active leveling has become a lot faster because only a part of the build plate is measured (the part that is printed upon)! Model-based active leveling. We've boosted the efficiency of active leveling on the Ultimaker S5. Instead of probing the entire build plate, only the footprint of the model is measured before a print starts. Disabled print cores are skipped to speed up the process. To make use of this feature, prints need to be prepared using Ultimaker Cura 4.0 or above.
  16. Yes, every time when UM3 can't be connect I will go to "Connect via Network". For situation (3), no printer is listed so I will click on "Refresh" several times. But UM3 is still not listed. After power-cycle UM3, it will be listed in Cura automatically. For situation (2), UM3 is already listed there. The button "Print over network" is still available. But Cura will fail to send out the model when I click on the button.
  17. Yeah, I would agree, but I think most would agree. Although my prints are not usually mechanical in nature, I do sometimes make small things. A while back I printed up a series of parts for a much larger scene. This is a picture of a bunch of 'lab equipment' pieces. They may look really so-so in the picture, but that is because it is so close on such small objects. The comparison object is a U.S. nickel. Even at 0.1 layer heights, some of the objects are only 50 layers in height.
  18. Richtig. Eigentlich ziehe ich das Material nach dem Druck, wenn er auf ca. 80-85 Grad abgekühlt ist, wieder zurück. Somit brauch ich erst beim nächsten Druckstart nur in die heiße Düse wieder vorschieben... Ja, mach ich über Maintaince. Erst Druckbett auf Temperatur stellen (braucht eh am längsten) und während er dann dieses heizt, stell ich den/die Core auf Zieltemperatur(n) und lass diese ebenfalls heizen. Hab ich mir mal beim RF1000 so angewöhnt, weil die Hotends zum Nachlängen teilweise neigen. Ob das bei der Konstruktion des UM-Core auch so stark ausgeprägt ist, habe ich noch nicht getestet, aber eine gewisse Nachlängung wird immer im System sein - heißes Material dehnt sich nunmal etwas... Gruß, Digibike
  19. OUPS65

    line width

    Many tks for your answser with your helpfull feedback. Congratulations for yours prints..... We also have to face with the macro pictures distorsions. We are printing with an 0.15mm nozzel with a layer heigth of 0.08mm. This work well too : To fix the ideas for the duckboard : the rectangular holes are 0.36mm x 0.36mm and the solid part between two holes to a width of 0.274mm. His thickness is 0.374mm. The filament used is a PLA PREMIUM from 3DONLINE. our discussion between us was about the CURA process : Any idea how does CURA react on the flow if we reduce the line width by 10% as per their recommandations ? some said that the flow is automatically reduced by 10%, others said that Cura do not impact on the flow when changing this line width setting ? Many tks Philippe
  20. Thanks rcfocus, you are right. I however tried to print it with a Formlabs 3 resin printer, and it came out flawlessly even at its lowest resolution (100 micron)! When it comes to small mechanical parts, I feat that SLA beats FDM hands-down (and it's competitive even on price, both equipment and consumables...).
  21. Verstehe, aber dazu muss die Düse aufheizen, dann kann man das Filament rausziehen. Dabei zieht es aber meist lange Fäden, sollte die nicht entfernt werden? Gut bei 1cm verm. egal. Machst du das Aufheizen manuell, d.h. über das Maintanance Menü?, dort kann ich aber nur Bett und Hotend getrennt aufheizen 🤔
  22. Mach ich bei meinem UM3 so, aber Laden benutze ich nur bei neuer Rolle zum "Anlernen". Du hast hinten einen Kleinen Hebel - den kannst du drücken und somit die Anpreßrolle entlasten. Damit kannst du das Filament "frei" bewegen. Da genügt 1 cm zurück ziehen, damit ist es aus der Düse. Sobald er wieder drucken soll, wieder Hebel drücken und Filament in die Düse schieben und er ist wieder druckbereit. Bei PLA oder PVA empfiehlt es sich eh, es nicht allzu lange zu belassen (PVA sowieso nicht, aber PLA neigt zu "Entlastungsbrüchen"...). Wollte nur darauf hinweisen... Gruß, Digibike
  23. Ich habe mir mal den 3DJake EasyAdheasy bestellt, denke aber dass ich die Uhu Geschichte hinbekomme. Kein Filament und dann nachschieben, wäre beim Ulti nur über Filamentwechsel zu machen, das möchte ich nicht jedes mal tun müssen. Außerdem heize ich nur das Bett, beim Start vom Druck heizt er die Düse, lässt etwas rauslaufen (Raupe) und ich stelle immer einen Skirt mit 500mm ein, damit sollte auch das Hotend genug durchgeheizt sein. Denke aber dass ich diese Längungsproblem auch schon beobachtet habe, ein Druck die 1. Schicht war wie Papier und hat nicht gehaftet, was das damit gemeint? Ich werde jetzt, finde der Zeitpunkt ist gekommen, mal Werte festlegen und daran optimieren. - Druckhaftung mit verstrichenem Uhu-Stick- Standard: 50mm/s, 1000mm/s2, 1. Schicht und Wände 30mm/s- Skirt 3 Linien, mind.500mm- gemessenen DM des Filaments einstellen- mittels Testdrucke die Verarbeitungstemp. des Filaments rausfinden- 0.4mm Linienbreite, 0,15mm 1. Schicht, 0,2mm Schichtdicke; mittels Testdrucke das optimale fürs Filament rausfinden Hoffe damit mal eine Schritt voran zu kommen und weiter geht's.
  24. I'm new to 3D printing, in fact, I don't have my printer yet. I was wondering the best programs to create projects in so they can be printed with my 3D printer. I have a Creatlity CR-10s Pro on the way. The programs I have that I think I can make projects with are Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator and I also have TurboCad Pro. I'm not sure if these programs can make the files I need for 3D printing or not, and if they do, do they need to be run through another program. Any help would be appreciated. I just need any pointers in how to create the file and then how to get it into the printer to work. Thanks, Mark
  25. Gday b-morgan I put your .py file into cura and did a restart.. It wouldnt show the file in the post process list. What am i doing wrong? I did rename it with only the .py extension. And left full name of file.. i couldnt see it. Help!
  26. The wall is 0.3mm, not 0.6mm: (4.0 - 3.4)/2 = 0.3mm That's too thin even for injection mold. You might have to change your design.
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