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  3. I see you describe two problems that can both be fixed with settings: Minimum Infill Area will close small gaps in the top skin. This way, instead of stopping just before the small gap, it'll just continue printing skin over the whole gap. It can save some time at the cost of more material. This answers your main question. It's not as brute force as your proposed solution, but only applies to small gaps in the skin where it's needed. Increase this setting to maybe something like 10mm^2 for your model. Ironing Inset is a distance that Cura will keep between the edge of the ironed area and the edge of the top surface. If you reduce that to 0, the influence of those letters will not nearly be as big. I hope those solutions are sufficient for your case. I think the first solution is a better solution in general than what you've proposed.
  4. Cura 전문가 여러분, 1.6mm 두께의 오프셋 모델을 만들었습니다. 이것을 CURA 3.4.1로 슬라이스하면 두면에 2 개의 작은 구멍이 있습니다. 이미 모델링을 확인했지만 오류가 없습니다. CURA 설정을 변경해야한다고 생각합니다. 조언 좀 해줄 래? 진정으로, 클라라
  5. In your photos, the next layers have nothing to stick to, so they print in the air and are dragged around. You need to find a way to make them stick. It is like when the glass bed is calibrated wrong, and you have too much distance between nozzle and bed. What about trying this method: - make sure your nozzle is rather close to the glass bed, so the first layer is squished very well into the glass, - make the indentations 0.11mm deep in the CAD design, - make the first layer 0.10mm thick in Cura, - make the following layers 0.2 or 0.3mm thick in Cura, Then the first layer is really squeezed into the glass, and there is a good change that the following layers will still have enough bonding. I am not sure this is going to work, and if the pattern is going to be visible enough, but it might be worth trying? This is what the bottom of the first layer should look like:
  6. What about printing this model flat on its back? Then there are no bridges, and no drooping spaghetti? Just rotate it 90° in Cura. Otherwise, if you do not use support, then on the highest point of the bridge, the filament will allways sag because a molten plastic (liquid) can not keep its shape without support. It needs a base to glue itself to, such as a solid previous layer.
  7. OK! I decided to use the SD card to print one of my dragons. Modeled in Smith Micro POSER. It was going to be a long print! It was doing well and I thought I would get on with another job but I needed to check what my settings were in CURA 4.3.0. BAD MISTAKE!! As soon as Cura booted up the printer reset ruining the print! So the only computer controlled failure I have ever had was using the SD card. In the year I have had the printer the USB print system has never failed. I have made mistakes and aborted prints etc etc. but never had a failure or reset in my entire operating life when printing via USB only when printing by SD. I will remember not to start CURA while printing from SD. Regards Trevor
  8. Maybe this behaviour is because sometimes the outer wall encloses multiple inner walls at once? For example when printing a lot of small circles touching each other. Then the inner walls may all be separate circles, but the outer wall might enclose them all at once. So it is just one uninterrupted outline. Just guessing, but I could see this as a reason. Edit: or vice-versa, as in this picture below: here the outer walls around the holes are separate circles, but the inner wall is one long connected outline.
  9. There could be something wrong with the model... does this area show any irregularity in the Cura preview? If not, a slight increase of the flow rate (maybe 2%) should solve the problem, or you could use the experimental "ironing" feature in cura.
  10. Sorry, you are right... the word I was looking for was actually not "stif". What I wanted to say is that it would be stronger against breaking. I'm not a native speaker, sorry 😉
  11. Actually, I think the video had made an incorrect claim against nylon. It will absorb water, but for a printed part, moisturization might be the wanted result. Nylon demostrates different properties after absobe water, it will be more flexible and "tough". And actually, some nylon parts manufactures demands certain degree of moisture. So I would put the printed parts into water to make it more "stronger".
  12. Stiffer? That's not really my experience... in my experience, it becomes less stiff and more impact resistant after absorbing humidity. I found some interesting Nylon degradation test results here: https://www.toray.jp/plastics/en/amilan/technical/tec_003.html I find this quite shocking, especially the extreme brittleness (total lack of impact resistance) the samples showed after only a year of exposure...
  13. Hello! According to my local reseller, the Firmaware update that we are all waiting for will NOT be relased before december. Thats...annoying obviously and that was not mentionned at the time of pruchase of the Material Station. Now what to do? -Did someone get the 5.4.6 working? Best regards HW
  14. The water absorbtion of nylon is a kind of double-edged sword: Before printing, you don't want the material to absorb moisture. Because of the heating in the printcore, the absorbed water will create bubbles and give a bad surface, little holes and in the wors case clog your nozzle. So it's important for the priniting process to keep the nylon filament dry. After printing, the model will absorb moisture out of the air and of course when it's put into water. But this does not affect the properties of the material in a negative way. It will make your model slightly stiffer more impact resistant.
  15. problem solved -> user defined print settings
  16. in Cura under Shell there is a setting called 'outer before inner walls' This should print the outside wall first and then inner walls. I dont know what material you are printing with, but you should look at the temperature from the water and the smoke to make sure it does not melt or deform the filament. That would not be very healty to inhale 😉 . Hope this solves your problem.
  17. 😮 Impressive work indeed! If I manage tu get only half as far in my UMO modding it would be great! Maybe I should start thinking to switch to directdrive, but first I will do the rest that is in the pipeline...
  18. Hey guys, i'm new to the 3d printing world and i've learned a lot this week so far, but here is my first design (A bong) haha.. so my problem is that is a cone at first then the up pipe is a hollow cilinder, but cura wants to start that layer from the inner part which is not possible since there is not support and i can't use any because it would be unremovable and it would not work also because that's where the water will be and smoke wouldn't pass thru. how can i make cura start this layer from the outer part so it can hook to the cone?
  19. Hallo! Gehe mal davon aus, dass die aktuellste Version von Cura verwendet werden soll. Bitte die folgendes mitteilen´, zu finden unter Einstellungen --> System --> Info - Prozessor - Installierter RAM - Systemtyp - Edition - Version - Betriebssystembuild Und die Grafikkarten Infos, zu finden unter Einstellungen --> System --> Anzeige - Bildschirmauflösung - Grafikkarten Info (Erweiterte Anzeigeeinstellungen) "Bildschirm 1: mit ......... verbunden - werden mehrere Bildschirme verwendet? - werden mehrere Grafikkarten verwendet? - Grafikkartentreiber sind aktuell? Bitte auch mal beim Virenscanner nachschauen ob evtl. eine Fehlerkennung vorliegt und daher Dateien von Cura fehlen. Antivir z.B. mit allen Optionalen Erkennungen aktiv erkennt bei manchen Versionen etwas falsch und löscht wichtige Dateien.
  20. Hi folks, I'm new to Cura, but after finally upgrading my OS (I use Ubuntu Linux) I found that Makerware is no longer offered for Linux, which means suddenly I couldn't drive the 3 Replicator 2's that I have. This gave me the push I needed to get into Cura as I'd heard such great things about it. The only problem is, is that it seems not many who use Cura have Replicator 2's, and the built in profile is for a Replicator 1 and needs some tweaking. Furthermore, the X3GWriter seems to want to detect it only as a Replicator 1, which has different numbers of steps per mm so all printed items were turning out a little bigger than they should have been. I've written a blog about it step by step for those in the same boat as me here: http://jessestevens.com.au/2019/10/20/configuring-cura-4-3-for-makerbot-replicator-2/ But to also make sure in case my blog disappears etc to help others I'll put the steps here: First up, I’m using it in Ubuntu Linux (18.04) so locations of files might need to be changed for your config files as needed. This is for Cura v4.3. Step 1: Set up your printer I chose Makerbot Replicator from the printers page, and made a couple of changes to the settings: xwidth: 225mm ydepth: 145mm xheight: 150mm build plate shape: rectangular origin at centre: yes heated bed: no heated build volume: no gcode flavour: makerbot I also renamed the machine name to “Replicator 2” just so I would remember. Step 2: Start and end GCode You’ll need some custom Gcode so here it is (picked from various places and organised after some testing). Start Gcode: ; — start of START GCODE – M73 P0 (enable build progress) ;this next line won’t work, but has the steps command M92 X88.8 Y88.8 Z400 E101 ; sets steps per mm for Rep2 G90 (set positioning to absolute) (**** begin homing ****) G162 X Y F4000 (home XY axes maximum) G161 Z F3500 (home Z axis minimum) G92 Z-5 (set Z to -5) G1 Z0.0 (move Z to “0”) G161 Z F100 (home Z axis minimum) M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis) (**** end homing ****) G92 X147 Y66 Z5 G1 X105 Y-60 Z10 F4000.0 (move to waiting position) G130 X0 Y0 A0 B0 (Set Stepper motor Vref to lower value while heating) G130 X127 Y127 A127 B127 (Set Stepper motor Vref to defaults) G0 X105 Y-60 (Position Nozzle) G0 Z0.6 (Position Height) ; — end of START GCODE – End GCode: ; — start of END GCODE – G92 Z0 G1 Z10 F400 M18 M104 S0 T0 M73 P100 (end build progress) G162 X Y F3000 M18 ; — end of END GCODE – This of course all assumes you don’t have a heated bed (also makes sure it doesn’t send heated bed commands which make the machine complain). Step 3: Install X3G file converter Go to the “Marketplace” button at the top right of your Cura window and in the marketplace search for “X3GWriter” and install it. Restart Cura so that it comes live. Step 4: Modify X3GWriter so that it always detects “Replicator 2” There seems to be a problem with X3GWriter in that with the above setup it always detects the machine to be a replicator 1, which is a problem as they have different amounts of steps per mm. You’ll know this because if you have a Replicator 2 and you try to print an object, it’ll keep printing larger than it should be. I’m sure there’s another way to make it detect “Replicator 2” but in the mean time I just changed it to always be Replicator 2 as that is all I have. Locate your plugins folder – for me it’s in /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins (where username is your username). Go into the X3GWriter folder (and again into it, it’s nested twice – the path for me is: /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins/X3GWriter/X3GWriter/) Open “X3GWriter.py” with your favourite text editor. Be careful in here, it’s a python script so you want to use spaces, not tabs to indent, and indents matter. If you destroy it you may have to just remove the plugin and install it again. We’re looking for the line like this: return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Note again that it’s indented with spaces in front. Put a # in front of this line to comment it out so it doesn’t get read like this: #return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Now go to the next line, press space until you’re lined up with the line above and put in: return “r2” Save the file and close Cura, then restart it. If all is well, you’ll find you can now export files that will print properly and be read by your Replicator 2. If you find the X3G file option has disappeared from your list, then the plugin is broken. Check your syntax in the plugin file and try again. Is this a little hacky? Yes, and I realise it may not be for everyone, especially if you're working with multiple printers, but until I can find a way to pass along to X3GWriter to filter the output through a Replicator 2 profile, this has been the only way I've been able to make it all work. Funnily, using Cura has massively improved the reliability and quality of the printers and improved my faith in them again. It seems Makerware wasn't doing as good a job as I thought it was, and was leaving these older Gen4 printers behind a little with their slicing algorithms. I hope this has been useful for people like me that were pulling their hair out trying to make it happen - don't throw that printer away! Jesse
  21. Hi, I have been away from printing for a while and caught the bug again. I first have to say I LOVE the new 4.3 version (I was 2.something before). Im getting fantastic prints now. Here is my question. I have two printers a Kossel with a boden tube and an I3 with a direct drive. Each printer has very different retraction setting. My printer with the boden tube needs a retraction of 7mm and my Direct Drive needs .5mm typically (everything else is the same). Is there a way for me to have separate material profiles for each printer? It seems if I set the retraction distance for the material for one printer (in the materials) and then change printers it keeps that last settings. I hate having to remember and reset the retraction when I change printers and materials. Thanks for the help
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  23. When I had such issue with Er 15 printhead disassembly fixed it. I disassembled printhead, removed and cleaned printhead PCB board and assembled everything back. First of all I tried to reconnect rear printhead cable but nothing hapened.
  24. I know this is going to be a face palm stupid question but can I input numbers smaller then +/- .5 my S5 is off by maybe .1 I only seem to be able to adjust in .5 units
  25. I am very new to 3d printing, I got the pre-loaded prints to print on my Longer Lk4 but the one I designed seems to be starting at the top of the print ( not z-axis 0). I am using Cura so I am curious if I am missing a setting in Cura to get it to start from the bottom. Please and thank you ahead of time!
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