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  2. A new version of the plugin that is compatible with the S5 (and updated UM 3) is currently in review and should be available from the Marketplace soon.
  3. I really dont get why z-offset plugin is not implemented directly in Cura...
  4. Today
  5. @thopiekar In Freecad It seems the ActiveObject is the last created one (may be a bug) You can check it in Pyton Console with >>> App.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Name after create more body/object But it is not a problem: I think you have just to know that if you have more object/body ( say a cube and a cylinder) you must do a fusion as last step.
  6. dans le menu de l'UM3, tu peux sélectionner la fréquence de calibrage, exemple à chaque impression ou chaque semaine ou ....ou jamais
  7. solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramètres du menu, j'ai essayé de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncèlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassée durant le print. cela gênait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  8. thanks for the reply! while something i will definitely try out, i feel it doesn't reply to the question as why all inner walls should disappear? - this IMHO is a bug in cura, since there should be sufficient space and material left to slice walls in the inner of the body after a slight horizontal expansion...
  9. Recently Bought 3 Ultimaker 3 3D printers.... Having the same issue on all of them. I am unable to calibrate the X Y offset as it gives me the following error Nozzle offset probe failed. Please check the nozzles and bed and try again. The bed seems fine as single extruders are working fine and sticking correctly. I have changed the print cores , and tried. Also the extruder 2 does not extrude any material during the X Y calibration, but prints fine by itself. when the print core is changed , the extruder 1 does not extrude. I have the latest firmware installed. I am having the issue on all 3 machines.
  10. Oh my God that is very very grateful. You saved me!
  11. I guess, you are using Linux, right? PS: The bug fix works for you?
  12. This looks like a fun project for kids. Did you print each cutter-blade assembly in one piece, or print each blade separately and then mount them on a rod?
  13. Maybe printing the walls flat on their back, and then glueing the pieces together, might give better results? Similar to the HO-model railroad houses we had as kids from Faller, Vollmer, Kibri, etc... Then the material flow is more constant and the print head does not need to travel through air as much. Or maybe you could print the main wall vertically, just like you did now, but print only the windows flat on their back, and then assemble? That might give a better layer line pattern? Also, using sand- and stone-colors (beige, warm grey, light grey, cream) could also help to hide artifacts, and they are very well suited for architectural work. White is often a difficult color to print, and it shows defects quite hard. ColorFabb has a lot of custom sand- and stone-colors. (I am talking about the non-filled, plain PLA colors.)
  14. Hi guys, The nozzle is full of material around, I can not take the nozzle out , what should I do? Thank you very much.
  15. SandervG

    cura 4

    Wat voor 3D printer heb je, Jerry?
  16. Thank you very much for your answers, I will definitively change the Printcore for a new one. It's really difficult when we don't have the history of the printer, but according to the picture, it seems that the old owner of this printer has printed with abrasive materiel, I assume Carbon. You're right it's a very early UM3, so I assume that I have to change the springs. So I would like to change them but, I didn't find any re-sellers, even on the Ultimaker site... Can you tell me where I can find it ? Thanks in advance.
  17. Hello everyone, I unearth this topic because I am desperate to change the spring that has become too loose at the back of the board. Indeed, my printer raises me an error of auto leveling with unrealistic values. I suspect the bed is not firm enough to withstand the pressure of the nozzle. Can you help me find a reference for these springs? I can not find anything on the official website and on all the dealers. Thanks in advance.
  18. Hallo zusammen, wir nutzen einen Ultimaker S5 in unserem Unternehmen. Die klare Anforderung unserer IT-Abteilung ist die Vergabe einer statischen IP-Adresse. Daher wurde dies seitens der IT am Gerät (wie in diesem Forum beschrieben) eine statische IP-Adresse vergeben. Mit dieser Einstellung wurden am Gerät keine Updates zur Firmware angezeigt. Daher hat die IT die statische IP-Adresse für einen kurzen Zeitraum deaktiviert. Nun stand das Update zur Verfügung und konnte durchgeführt werden (neuste Firmware installiert). Der Drucker hat nun wieder eine statische IP-Adresse, nun hatte ich ebenfalls bemerkt, dass eine Verbindung mit dem neuen Cloud-Service nicht möglich ist. Laut unserer IT, hat der Drucker alle Rechte die benötigten Funktionen auszuführen, lediglich die IP-Adresse ist fixiert. DHCP ist leider an dieser Stelle definitiv nicht erwünscht. Daher die Fragen, ob zu diesem Thema ein Workaround besteht, alle Funktionen trotz statischer IP, zu nutzen? Ungern würde ich auf diese Funktion verzichten und bei jedem Updatet die IT um die Aufhebung der statischen IP bitten. Sollten für dieses Thema Informationen fehlen (erster Community-Eintrag) kann ich diese gerne in Erfahrung bringen und Nachtragen. Vielen Dank vorab.
  19. In older versions of Cura, you needed to download the backup plugin from the marketplace. Also; The restoring backups from older versions has been fixed. From 4.1 onward you should be able to restore backups from previous versions.
  20. help, quelqu'un sait comment réinitialiser la position du plateau ? j'ai l'impression qu'il ne sait plus où il est.
  21. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mir die Teile für ein ferngesteuertes Auto zum Selbstbauen mit meinem Drucker gedruckt. Nun möchte ich mir gerne auch noch die Reifen ausdrucken und stehe nun vor dem Problem dass ich nicht weiß ob das TPU 95a oder 82a die bessere Wahl dafür ist, bzw. welches sich "besser" zum Drucken eignet? Vielleicht kann mir hier wer weiterhelfen? Schon mal besten Dank im Voraus!
  22. Hey guys, sorry for delay in getting back to you. I'll go and try those places then. Sounds like I just have to hunt for a raw screw then. I was hoping there would be standard place someone else had bought them from before to make life a little easier. These ones on the UM3 seem to be very soft, the UM2 ones I have seem to wear much better?
  23. Hi, is there a way in CURA to avoid the "connection" lines as marked on the photo? Thanks and best regards, Martin
  24. It looks like it slipped to the left a bit - it looks like it lost some steps in one of the axes. That axis needs tightening or something. What kind of printer did you use? Is it one of those pritners where the print bed moves with the Y axis? Is that the axis that slipped? You might have to tighten a pulley set screw. Or something else. Or maybe there is too much friction in the slipping axis. Push the axes around and see if the "bad" axis has more friction. Maybe some oil can help.
  25. Hi Smithy Thanks for that I printed the part but cracked the area around the thread!!!! Too much swarf to clean away from the threat coming from support material Im gonna modify and print another prototype Thanks again b
  26. Yesterday
  27. Had my UM3 for 6 weeks or so, and it was fine until leveling went wrong about 2 weeks ago, and once it went wrong, it went all the way. - I had autolevel set to always, - After the firmware patch my print success started feeling inconsistent, - I'd added UHU to a print where the most important layer had to be printed on the bed and raft/brim messed with it, - Adhesion had gotten worse and UM3 provides a painful, slow, experimentation cycle, so I'd flipped the bed over unaware that the two sides are different, - A large build of Colorfabb nGen had slipped and covered the printheads in ngen residue, forcing me to open the print head to get the cores out, - After reassembly not even my unaffected print cores (bb .4 and aa .25) could level, - Printing the X/Y calibration was impossible because the head was either too close or was dragging drips/strands/the print into the print and turning to mush, - The manual leveling process is an awful user experience. You should grandmother it (get family members of staff to come in and attempt to correctly manually level a printer: I challenge you), how much "some resistance" is turns out to be absolutely criticial, - During the fight between manual and autolevel I think I over loosed some of the screws, - The turn around time on making leveling adjustments to finding out whether you are within +/-0.05mm of correct extrusion is INSANE, - It took me about 5 attempts after the buildtak addition to piece together what was going on. a) I thought I'd turned off auto-leveling but it was back on - maybe I had done that thing where pressing the wheel counts as turning the wheel too, b) I was feeling for "resistance" as in a sense that the card was being dragged at rather than aiming for the barest hint that the card wasn't utterly free to move, c) The card isn't perfectly flat, and its hard to get it to be flat, d) auto-levelling can't handle buildtak, and it definitely can't handle flex plate, e) in my case, the calibration card was too thin, a 0.35mm piece of card that came with the shipping of something worked a lot better, What I don't get is why this problem isn't generally solved in 3d printing using a simple obstruction sensor? Hang an emitter and a receiver from the same axis the print core is from until you sense the bed interrupting the bottom of the receiver? The sensors/emitters can probably be bought off the shelf and you just send the output to the extant board, with the mounting parts, probably sell for $50-150, and voila customers have a way to obtain factory-fresh perfect auto leveling in a single pass. Or for $250-$350 you could put strips along the sides of the bed up by the home position: in a single scan you can do both leveling and obstruction checking -- you can confirm that nothing is in the way of the current layer and, at the end of the layer, after moving the head, that the print hasn't failed to adhere. You could even check for droop, etc, by checking that end-of-layer occlusion matches expectations...
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