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  2. Hi guys, The nozzle is full of material around, I can not take the nozzle out , what should I do? Thank you very much.
  3. Today
  4. SandervG

    cura 4

    Wat voor 3D printer heb je, Jerry?
  5. Thank you very much for your answers, I will definitively change the Printcore for a new one. It's really difficult when we don't have the history of the printer, but according to the picture, it seems that the old owner of this printer has printed with abrasive materiel, I assume Carbon. You're right it's a very early UM3, so I assume that I have to change the springs. So I would like to change them but, I didn't find any re-sellers, even on the Ultimaker site... Can you tell me where I can find it ? Thanks in advance.
  6. Hello everyone, I unearth this topic because I am desperate to change the spring that has become too loose at the back of the board. Indeed, my printer raises me an error of auto leveling with unrealistic values. I suspect the bed is not firm enough to withstand the pressure of the nozzle. Can you help me find a reference for these springs? I can not find anything on the official website and on all the dealers. Thanks in advance.
  7. Hallo zusammen, wir nutzen einen Ultimaker S5 in unserem Unternehmen. Die klare Anforderung unserer IT-Abteilung ist die Vergabe einer statischen IP-Adresse. Daher wurde dies seitens der IT am Gerät (wie in diesem Forum beschrieben) eine statische IP-Adresse vergeben. Mit dieser Einstellung wurden am Gerät keine Updates zur Firmware angezeigt. Daher hat die IT die statische IP-Adresse für einen kurzen Zeitraum deaktiviert. Nun stand das Update zur Verfügung und konnte durchgeführt werden (neuste Firmware installiert). Der Drucker hat nun wieder eine statische IP-Adresse, nun hatte ich ebenfalls bemerkt, dass eine Verbindung mit dem neuen Cloud-Service nicht möglich ist. Laut unserer IT, hat der Drucker alle Rechte die benötigten Funktionen auszuführen, lediglich die IP-Adresse ist fixiert. DHCP ist leider an dieser Stelle definitiv nicht erwünscht. Daher die Fragen, ob zu diesem Thema ein Workaround besteht, alle Funktionen trotz statischer IP, zu nutzen? Ungern würde ich auf diese Funktion verzichten und bei jedem Updatet die IT um die Aufhebung der statischen IP bitten. Sollten für dieses Thema Informationen fehlen (erster Community-Eintrag) kann ich diese gerne in Erfahrung bringen und Nachtragen. Vielen Dank vorab.
  8. In older versions of Cura, you needed to download the backup plugin from the marketplace. Also; The restoring backups from older versions has been fixed. From 4.1 onward you should be able to restore backups from previous versions.
  9. help, quelqu'un sait comment réinitialiser la position du plateau ? j'ai l'impression qu'il ne sait plus où il est.
  10. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mir die Teile für ein ferngesteuertes Auto zum Selbstbauen mit meinem Drucker gedruckt. Nun möchte ich mir gerne auch noch die Reifen ausdrucken und stehe nun vor dem Problem dass ich nicht weiß ob das TPU 95a oder 82a die bessere Wahl dafür ist, bzw. welches sich "besser" zum Drucken eignet? Vielleicht kann mir hier wer weiterhelfen? Schon mal besten Dank im Voraus!
  11. Hey guys, sorry for delay in getting back to you. I'll go and try those places then. Sounds like I just have to hunt for a raw screw then. I was hoping there would be standard place someone else had bought them from before to make life a little easier. These ones on the UM3 seem to be very soft, the UM2 ones I have seem to wear much better?
  12. Hi, is there a way in CURA to avoid the "connection" lines as marked on the photo? Thanks and best regards, Martin
  13. It looks like it slipped to the left a bit - it looks like it lost some steps in one of the axes. That axis needs tightening or something. What kind of printer did you use? Is it one of those pritners where the print bed moves with the Y axis? Is that the axis that slipped? You might have to tighten a pulley set screw. Or something else. Or maybe there is too much friction in the slipping axis. Push the axes around and see if the "bad" axis has more friction. Maybe some oil can help.
  14. Hi Smithy Thanks for that I printed the part but cracked the area around the thread!!!! Too much swarf to clean away from the threat coming from support material Im gonna modify and print another prototype Thanks again b
  15. Yesterday
  16. Had my UM3 for 6 weeks or so, and it was fine until leveling went wrong about 2 weeks ago, and once it went wrong, it went all the way. - I had autolevel set to always, - After the firmware patch my print success started feeling inconsistent, - I'd added UHU to a print where the most important layer had to be printed on the bed and raft/brim messed with it, - Adhesion had gotten worse and UM3 provides a painful, slow, experimentation cycle, so I'd flipped the bed over unaware that the two sides are different, - A large build of Colorfabb nGen had slipped and covered the printheads in ngen residue, forcing me to open the print head to get the cores out, - After reassembly not even my unaffected print cores (bb .4 and aa .25) could level, - Printing the X/Y calibration was impossible because the head was either too close or was dragging drips/strands/the print into the print and turning to mush, - The manual leveling process is an awful user experience. You should grandmother it (get family members of staff to come in and attempt to correctly manually level a printer: I challenge you), how much "some resistance" is turns out to be absolutely criticial, - During the fight between manual and autolevel I think I over loosed some of the screws, - The turn around time on making leveling adjustments to finding out whether you are within +/-0.05mm of correct extrusion is INSANE, - It took me about 5 attempts after the buildtak addition to piece together what was going on. a) I thought I'd turned off auto-leveling but it was back on - maybe I had done that thing where pressing the wheel counts as turning the wheel too, b) I was feeling for "resistance" as in a sense that the card was being dragged at rather than aiming for the barest hint that the card wasn't utterly free to move, c) The card isn't perfectly flat, and its hard to get it to be flat, d) auto-levelling can't handle buildtak, and it definitely can't handle flex plate, e) in my case, the calibration card was too thin, a 0.35mm piece of card that came with the shipping of something worked a lot better, What I don't get is why this problem isn't generally solved in 3d printing using a simple obstruction sensor? Hang an emitter and a receiver from the same axis the print core is from until you sense the bed interrupting the bottom of the receiver? The sensors/emitters can probably be bought off the shelf and you just send the output to the extant board, with the mounting parts, probably sell for $50-150, and voila customers have a way to obtain factory-fresh perfect auto leveling in a single pass. Or for $250-$350 you could put strips along the sides of the bed up by the home position: in a single scan you can do both leveling and obstruction checking -- you can confirm that nothing is in the way of the current layer and, at the end of the layer, after moving the head, that the print hasn't failed to adhere. You could even check for droop, etc, by checking that end-of-layer occlusion matches expectations...
  17. Hello. I increased by 205% on the z axis. And at the time of printing, the impression is always defective as I show in the image. How can I solve this problem??
  18. Hello. I increased by 205% on the z axis. And at the time of printing, the impression is always defective as I show in the image.
  19. Then it was exactly the problem I was talking about. When you model something in Fusion you get often a new body instead of joining the existing one. It is not a problem, but you should be aware of it and that the export function only exports one body (you can also not select more than one). So when you have more than body in Fusion, you should combine it before sending it to Cura. You find the combine function in the Modify menu in Fusion.
  20. That's a problem, but the other is that the FW obviously does not take into account which material is loaded - it makes no sense to advance ABS and nylon 6 mm and print at a fixed temperature of 190 degrees (Core 1) or 220 degrees (Core 2) - that does not go through the nozzle ...! Deadline only because much too cold. It was not an Ultimaker material now, but I loaded it with the load command and specified the material type there - so I suspect that's the problem in general. The way I see it, you have to calibrate PLA each time - whether you have it there or not ... If only the question were what I have to state it for - just to load? I can do that manually too ... with regards, Digibike
  21. The problem with the XY calibration is that it's not un-/retracting. Cura's default setting is to do exactly this. So that's why the filament is too far away from the nozzle. Anyway, the XY calibration is actually a gcode that is stored in the firmware. It assumes the scenario that the printcore is ready to be used. So what Ultimaker needs to do (or you if you know how to hack your printer) is to add the instruction for the printer in this gcode to do the un-/retraction. That should be it if I'm not wrong.
  22. Well said. Shame on you Ultimaker!!! Your leaving us all hang out to dry 😞
  23. I tried running x_pack's posts through Google translate, but there was no option to convert from selfishandentitledgibberish.
  24. Thank you so much! It was very helpful! Best regards
  25. They are M3 screws (3mm - standard thread). With "socket cap" screw heads (although any head type should work). You can indeed measure the length and get similar ones (threading will probably run the length but that's fine).
  26. First, im a brand new user here and for some reason, the product category for software is greyed out so i had to choose 3d printer for the category Ok, here is my question. I am using cura 4.0 and i have set up my printer, made my first part, and all went well. I have now started to mess with the print settings such as temp, speeds, and other basic settings. I save the file as a gcode file. I transfer to SD card, i print it and during the print, i forget how long it will take to print and i want to look at some of the other settings so i can write them down. I open the gcode file in cura4.0 and it loads the 3d image, but says i cant view the settings i had for it. How does one view the original print settings and see how long it will take to print? thanks
  27. Major stringing is occurring with all U3 prints on Cura. Tried various settings to no avail. Any ideas?
  28. Just to clarify myself; the showed code without G92, was before I re-installed Cura. I will test it again and show the results.
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