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  2. I have been losing my mind 🙂 trying to find a plugin to pause at layer. I used to have a plugin that I loaded into cura lulzbot edition to pause at a specific layer, now when it resumes, it doesn't touch the previous layer, therefor creating space and layer does not adhere well. I have both a mini and taz 6. Please help or point me in the right direction. Thank you!
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  5. I have tried a generic nylon filament in the past and all i wanted to do was rip my hair out because no matter what i used gluestick/ hairspray/ slurry/ brim nothing ever worked and the filament would always curl up and come off the print bed. This would drive me mental. I basically want something that prints parts to at accuracy of pla but is very ridged and strong (weight bearing), price is not an issue. I will add I have an olsson ruby , running on an ultimaker 2. So i believe I can print the vast majority of filaments. I have been looking at xstrand and polycarbonite & carbon fiber but I'm willing to try anything as long as they meet my main requirements. 1) Fairly easy to print, i don't want to have to fight with printing this. 2) much more rigid than pla or abs ( and pla + is NOT strong enough that's what i regularly use) 3) Littel to no flex, but not weak on a drop/ impact. 4) Able to take alot of weight prior to breaking Any one have any recommendations.
  6. Thanks Sander...pretty difficult situation for me. I lowered the price a bit and hoping to find a good home. Appreciate all you have done for me.
  7. I have a DuetWifi controller on a FolgerTech FT5 and use the Pause at height for RepRap firmware function. It only allows entering the pause height in mm (I use mm)(some allow mm or layer but not this one). I have to use my 3d modeling software to determine where I want my layer breaks and write them down before loading the STL file into Cura. Sometimes, usually, I have to resize the Z axis height in Cura and now I don't know what my pause points are unless I use the slider and calculate the new mm value by multiplying the layer number by the layer height in the slicer. For example layer 125 X .15 = 18.75. Two things I would like to see: Add the height value along with the layer on the slider, like they do in the Prusa slicer. Add the ability in the Pause at Height for RepRap post processor to enter the value as either a layer or height value in mm/in. Love your software! Thanks
  8. I think that the problem is with the "LAYER" comment. It is in the wrong place. Here is a typical CURA gcode. ;MESH:NONMESH G0 F600 X66.713 Y38.689 Z1.8 G0 F7200 X66.333 Y40.555 G0 X62.31 Y40.63 G0 X25.674 Y42.11 G0 X24.195 Y42.115 G0 X20.932 Y42.197 G0 X20.933 Y42.048 ;TIME_ELAPSED:3908.320706 ;LAYER:10 ;TYPE:FILL ;MESH:Enclosure.stl G1 F1500 E3249.63696 G1 F6000 X24.262 Y45.377 E3249.7544 G1 X24.332 Y45.447 G0 F7200 X24.123 Y45.447 G0 X22.434 Y42.193 G0 X22.435 Y42.051 G1 F6000 X19.283 Y45.203 E3249.8656 Normally if you allow CURA to insert the script, it inserts it at the LAYER comment, but notice that the layer really begins at the MESH NOMESH comment. I always insert my pause after the MESH NOMESH comment and then Z is restored. Here is my pause code: ; Begin Pause Code G0 X0 Y0 ; Insert just before Layer Number at MESH:NONMESH G0 Z50 M25 ; Pause Print - Remember to just press continue button !!!!! ; End Pause Code
  9. I had just the same problem, after installing Z height plug in in Cura, which i gave 0.15mm my problem is solved.
  10. I am having trouble on my S5 getting my breakaway support that's loaded as Extruder2 to print a good first layer. The PLA material in extruder 1 works great. But it seems like Extruder 2 is higher than Extruder 1. I have leveled the bed about a million times. I have cleaned the drool that comes out of Extruder 2 before it self levels. I have moved my parts to a different part of the glass. I have changed material spools. I have cleaned the glass. Eventually it works but I can't pin down what fixed the problem. Are the print nozzle heights being set when the bed self levels before the print? in other words if some of the drool that comes out of the support nozzle holds the support extruder up slightly will that nozzle be too high? Hope this makes sense. Thanks
  11. In Cura yiu can add Post Processing Scripts, Pause at height is one of them. Once added, you will see a little icon on the slicer screen. Until you click the icon and not delete the script, the printer will stop in every print you create in Gcode. "pause at height" or other things can't be put by accident in the Gcode-file... 😉
  12. Well that is amazing. Ok, understand now. My mental state is fixated on larger projects. Doing teeny tiny stuff would certainly require smaller nozzles.
  13. The obvious reasons are: - for small objects or for objects with fine details in the x/y direction - for objects with thin walls And there are even smaller nozzles than .25mm... If you need some inspiration: http://thedailymini.com/daily-mini-interview-miniature-3d-printing-lance-abernethy/
  14. yes, it sets the extruder position to 0.0 - which is probably not what you want. You should use the last e coordinate from before the pause instead of 0.0 http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html Just out of curiosity: Why are you inserting those things manually? Which slicer do you use? Doesn't it offer some support for pause scripts? And why exactly 30 seconds pause? Wouldn't it be better to wait for a keystroke or such...? Or lacks the taz 6 a display?
  15. Hello, I have created a fairly time intensive print, ~13 hrs on my ender 3. I did not purposefully put a pause in the Gcode but every time I print this specific file the printer pauses andd wait sfor used input. I have sliced it again, and still have the same pause at a height. How can I remove this from my gcode? How can I prevent this from happening again? Thanks in advance. I can share the gcode if needed.
  16. So what does decreasing the nozzle size do? If I change from .4mm to .25mm nozzle the print line width will be narrower but the line height will still be the same as that entered in Cura. I would need more passes to get the same wall thickness using the .25mm nozzle. This would make the print take longer. So what is the advantage of using a smaller nozzle? In what circumstances would you want to use a smaller nozzle?
  17. Hi, quick update. I forgot to take pics, but I can say 100% that it was a Cura issue. Specifically, latest Cura version (4.2) issue. If you have any similar issues, just use Cura v3.6 (available on the Ultimaker site) and all of the issues with the first layers go away. Cheers, Cosmin
  18. I've found it, it's the slicing tolerance..... When I set it to "Exclusive" the Model won't be printed, every other setting will slice it as intended. Any explanation on this ?!
  19. ;pause 1 G91 ; set Relative G1 E-0.50 F1800 ; Retract :start of bobs stop G1 Z20 F3000 X20 Y50; move to Z100 X145 Y150 at F4000 speed M0 S30 ; pause G1 E1.0 F1000 ; purge 1mm fillament G90 ; Set absolute G92 E0.0 G1 X85.679 Y103.328 F2000 these are taken from next feature G1 Z2.930 G1 X152.300 Y169.949 E202.6365 F1380 G1 X151.577 Y170.329 E202.6717 G1 X85.990 Y104.742 E206.6637 G1 X86.300 Y106.156 E206.7260 G1 X150.854 Y170.709 E210.6551 G1 X150.131 Y171.089 E210.6902 G1 X86.611 Y107.569 E214.5564 I looked at the code and decided where the pause would be there's two pauses in the complete programme, the print is in absolute (start of G code) I had two issues 1 unless I put the G92 in the filament would be completely retracted ruining the print and when I could get it to re print the line G1 X152.300 Y169.949 E202.6365 F1380 would go to the X and Y coordinates but the extruder was not extruding but the next line it started to extrude,, i'm working on two projects both need a pause in it 1 on the Ultimaker 2 and the other on Taz 6 the code above is running on Taz 6 i'm reluctant to do anymore prints until I know where I'm going wrong Taz 6 uses Marlin. I wondered if the reason there was no movement from the extruder was something todo with the E202.6365 with me placing the G92 E0.0 (did this re set extruder length to 0 ?? any advise greatly received.. Bob
  20. Tinkergnome thank you for taking the time to respond it is appreciated.. My apologies my original code had been modified to take out the incremental and absolute commands (suggested by some else) below is directly from my sd card
  21. Here is a PR that adds a preference to not restore the position and size of the window, thus keeping Cura on the primary display: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/6385 Affected users would still need to be able to start Cura to reach the preferences dialog (or edit cura.cfg to add the preference once)
  22. Hallo Zusammen Ich bin neu im Forum und ĂŒberlege mir einen Ultimaker S5 zu kaufen. Zurzeit Drucke ich seit ca. 2 Jahren mit einem Renkforce RF2000 und nochmals davor ca. 2 Jahre mit einem RF1000 Eigentlich war ich mit dem RF 2000 sehr zufrieden, jedoch ist die QualitĂ€t der gedruckten Objekte nicht so hochwertig und genau wie beim Ultimaker S5. Zudem hat mein Drucker 143h reine Druckzeit auf der Uhr. Und giebt den geist auf... zwei Schrittmotore und eine Platine haben schon den Geist aufgegeben. Nun zu meiner Frag... Ich habe mir im vorfeld die Software Ultimaker Cura heruntergeladen. Bis auf ein par Details gefĂ€llt diese mir sehr gut und ist auch ĂŒbersichtlicht. ZusĂ€tzlich gibt es einige Skrips die einfach eingefĂŒgt werden können. Ich drucke gerne auf die schnelle 2 Farbig, und hier entsteht mein Problem. Bei den Scrips kann man Chang at Layer einfĂŒgen und Temperaturen ect. verstellen, aber leider kann ich nicht wĂ€hlen das der 2. Extruder verwendet werden soll. Ich weis professionel wird dies schon im CAD Programm so geschnitten das man 2 .stl einlĂ€ht und anschlissend die Extruder pro file wĂ€hlt. Dies ist sehr umstĂ€ndlich da ich viele Objekte schon fertig gezeichnet habe. Gibt es eine variante, dass ich Change Extruder at Layer XY einstellen kann? Danke fĂŒr eure Hilfe im voraus. Gruss Schnibli
  23. Updated versions of the OctoPrint Connection and Sidebar GUI plugins are now available in the Marketplace. These are compatible with Ultimaker Cura 4.3.
  24. If you can't loosen a part well, then heating up is the wrong way. You should let the printing bed cool down and if that is too less, put the printing plate in the freezer for a few minutes. It can also help if you put an extra layer of glue (UHU stick) on your bed. This layer then dissolves more easily and if necessary you can also help with a few drops of water around your object. These printing plates such as Buildtak are quite useful for problematic materials, but for normal PLA the adhesion is too strong.
  25. I would get a spare cable to be on the safe side, if it ever causes problems, it will come again.
  26. Thanks a lot for all the help and suggestions. Cosmin
  27. Its unchecked. so it would be the graphics card then. Cura is running on a laptop at work so I cant really do much about the components. But thanks for the suggestion.
  28. The layerview is in compatibility mode. This could be because you have forced Compatibility mode on, should be off / unchecked. or your graphics card doesn't support OpenGl
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