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  2. I have been wondering why my first layers are not sticking well. I checked my manual leveling using a 0.06mm feeler gauge and it seems fine. I then tried printing a part and turning the printer off at the first layer. I then measured the height (gap) with feeler gauges and measured 0.38mm. I looked at the GCODE file and found that the Z Height was being set to 0.3mm (G1 F600 Z0.3). See the code below: Why does Cura do this? ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:1127 ;Filament used: 0.595774m ;Layer height: 0.2 ;MINX:79.2 ;MINY:79.2 ;MINZ:0.3 ;MAXX:120.8 ;MAXY:120.8 ;MAXZ:2.5 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.3.0 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G21 ; metric values G90 ; absolute positioning M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode M107 ; start with the fan off M140 S105 ; Set bed temperature (no wait) G28 X Y F6000 ; move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z F1200 ; move Z to min endstops ; raise the nozzle M190 S105 ; wait for bed temperature to reach target M104 S220 T0 ; set extruder temperature (no wait) G29 ; auto-leveling M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling compensation M109 S220 T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait M300 P200 ; beep to indicate that the temp is reached G0 F5000 X10 Y10 Z0.3 ; move to start G1 F500 X60.0 E9 ; start purge line G1 X150.0 E18.5 ; finish purge line G92 E0 ; set extruder to zero M117 Printing from Cura...; message G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1200 E-0.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:12 ;LAYER:0 M107 G1 F600 Z1.3 ;MESH:Nozzle Fan Spacer.stl G0 F2400 X81.795 Y83.534 Z1.3 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F600 Z0.3 G1 F1200 E0 G1 F600 X81.749 Y84.028 E0.02475 G1 X81.804 Y84.495 E0.04821
  3. What do you mean about right clicking and save the new file? I am confused on what I save and where to?
  4. I have not seen a material station in action yet, but I guess the loading process is how it should work. You load the material into the station, not into the print core. The idea behind is, that you load for example all 6 spools with different materials and as soon as you send a print job to the printer, the needed material will be loaded from the material station to the print core automatically.
  5. Naja, es gab erstmal ne längere Pause der (wie soll ich 's sagen) gelinden Fassungslosigkeit.😞 Experimentierphase schon lange vorbei und plötzlich streikt DER Drucker der superverlässlich drucktunddrucktunddruckt... auf einmal... menno 😭
  6. Das ist meistens so, dass es im unpassendsten Moment auftritt 🙂 Mit Ruhe und Geduld an die Sache ran gehen ist dann immer am Besten.
  7. Hello, Maybe you're right...though I would be surprised to have got a defect one...at least from what I can see the Material Station is in good condition, and seemed to work in terms on loading material and displaying data from coils. But after loading the filament tip ( sharp cut) with its motors. It does not drive the filament through the bowden to the printcores... I gave up, and moved back to 5.2.11... ...If any one has a video of loading a coil and starting print with 5.4.6, please share... HW
  8. Hi Smithy, der mittlere Lüfter auf der Rückseite des Druckkopfes funktioniert bzw. läuft. Müsste aber mal dabei bleiben und checken ob er auch wirklich (immer) anbleibt.... Es gab bei einem anderen Thread mit dem selben Thema eine schöne, lange Liste was alles der Grund sein könnte. Bin leider gerade länger nicht im Workshop. Das meiste habe ich aber schon "abgearbeitet". Zu viel Feuchtigkeit (s. Maguras Tipp oben) war aber z.B. nicht dabei. Wenn ich zurück komme mache ich mich (mit etwas mehr "Distanz") nochmal in aller Ruhe an das Problem. Denn NATÜRLICH passierte das als ich kurz vor einer längeren Geschäftsreise war (argh!) Vielen Dank erstmal 🙂
  9. Hi Andy, an eine verstopfte Düse dachte ich auch zuerst. (Verbrannte Reste sind eher nicht drin.) Hatte u.a. deshalb auch die Düse gewechselt um das Problem (nach dem zweiten Mal) schneller zu lösen, was nicht funtioniert hat :-( Eigentlich dachte ich beim Wechsel zu einer brandneuen Rolle (war noch im Plastik) hätte ich ein Feuchtigkeitsproblem ausgeschlossen. Dabei fällt mir ein dass das Problem erst auftauchte als es draussen kälter wurde. Könnte also (feines) Kondeswasser sein... Hmm. Danke für den Tipp. Wenn ich wieder im Workshop bin probiere ich mal ein Filament aus meinen Trockenboxen aus, in denen ich das normalerweise lagere. Ist vielleicht auch eine gute idee in dem Teil wo der Drucker steht einen Lufttrockner reinzustellen.... In den letzten kühleren Perioden hatte ich das Problem eigentlich nicht. Hmm.
  10. I don't think it was the reason, because when the PVA was not sticking to the glass, then you should see the PVA anywhere else. So I guess it was not really extruding. Did you start the calibration right after installation of the printer? If so, then this was the reason. I heard about a problem/bug, that after the welcome setup the material could be retracted too much, that you don't have the filament at the nozzle when needed. Don't worry, this is just during the setup.
  11. Today
  12. No it is just on/off This is easy, when you change filament you usually do a unload and load. During the load the nozzle is primed as long as press OK on the printer. So let it prime as long as the color is fine and not mixed.
  13. Je kunt met CURA de gcode bestuderen en zien of de lagen correct worden geprint. Je kunt zelf in de gcode zoeken naar de opdracht de z-as een laagje op te schuiven. Je kunt voor de zekerheid de z-as nog eens smeren en een aantal keren op-en-neer bewegen.
  14. Hello, the seventh file "PauseAtHeight.py". once in Cura following Robkleinpeter's procedure, you can choose pause at height or pause at layer. good luck, have a nice day.
  15. you say to go thru the marketplace button in Cura and search in the marketplace, but I don't see an option to search for anything. Did something change?
  16. Just now learning about this... Is there a way to adjust the Prime Blob in Cura, or is it simply "On / Off" ? Also, is there a "best" or even "suggested" method of priming (in this type of fashion) if one decides to change filament colors mid-print on a design which is sliced as mono-filament?
  17. Yes that is going to have an effect. The bigger the contact area of the bottom layer, the better it is going to stick. And the smaller the design elements, the easier they can bridge gaps without turning into spaghetti. I don't know the official terminology, but usually I speak about "raised" or "recessed" text or design features. So if the recessed seems to work better, definitely try that.
  18. I upgraded from CURA 3.X to 4.3. In the left picture my first printing with CURA 4.3, Z axis stepping out was occurred. And in the right picture, as you see, left one is printed by CURA 3.X and the other is printed by CURA 4.3. Both are same settings. If you have an experience like me, please give me an advice. Thank you in advance! Regards, Clara
  19. Problem with extra shell wall I resolve by add parameter "Wall line count = 0". And with Cubic infill pattern it's great: But when I used Cubic Subdivision : CFFFP_Puzzle.3mf
  20. I tried it again and it worked for both printers. This time I used the UHU stick. Do you think that was the problem? Or something else I should be aware of?
  21. It isn't quite what I had initially thought of, but it looks like the Gyropolis Hex is a Negative Design Element while mine far more Positive Design Element, if that makes any sense at all to anyone else... (Would those even be the correct terms???) ... Could that be the issue?
  22. I tried again Geert, following your train of though while trying to hold to the Ender 3's .04 magic number. I placed the core at a height of .10 above the print bed. I printed the base layer at .1, and following layers thicker with the magic number. The bottom of the token came out very clean, but with the design only visible while the light is reflecting off the surface perfectly. I'm totally going to keep this one, but still try fiddling more when I have more time... My ultimate goal is the style of design in the OP with the Gyropolis Hex piece.
  23. I gave you what I believe to be the algorithm. Let me state it a different way, and also answer your question about line colors. the yellow wall lines are the “inner” walls. The red are the skin, “outer“ walls. It prints all of the inner walls first. Then it prints all the outer walls. The Outer before Inner simply swaps the order of these operations.
  24. We have two new Ultimaker S5 machines, which comes with PLA and PVA. When doing the XY calibration the X calibration patterns is present for both PLA and PVA, but the Y pattern there is only PLA. The PVA is not printing in that direction. This is happening with BOTH new printers. It is not humid and the materials are new straight from the bag. Any thoughts?
  25. I don’t have an answer for you, but the pics are showing now.
  26. I wanted to give you guys an insight into printing with PETG, I know it's hard to get any since I tried myself so I wanted to give you my experience after A LOT of it. First of all, PETG has a fairly high HDT of about 60C or 75C depending on what you get. Realize that there is a point of conductivity in plastic which is much lower than a lot of other materials, it's considered an insulator, so even if you have it going through a hot area for a minute or 2, it may work just fine as the heat transfer won't have enough time to heat the part up beyond it's HDT and warp it. Since my application was a large dishwasher, here's what I found, in my case, it was a snap on application, high temp and somewhat needing strength. PETG is not as flexible as it seems to be advertised. I used a Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer, fully enclosed, 60% fan speed, No bed heat for the first layer, glue stick on blue tape, 230*C nozzle, I tried different settings but this worked the best for me. I also used Monoprice's PETG filament, 1 KG roll, fresh out of the box. If you print the grain of the layers longways, it's less flexible and much easier to snap, if you print them across, it's much more flexible. In my case, the object was printed laying down and installed standing up, if I printed it standing up, it would snap once I tried to get it mounted as I was relying on a snap fit. Kind of like wood, I believe there's a fancy word for it that I don't remember. Depending on the density of the item, it's ability to withstand heat will be affected, BUT if you are using it in a dishwasher with stress on it (in my case ,temps were upwards of 170*F) it will warp the parts with stress, 6MM thick or 1-2MM thick, still warps where the stress was, dense or skinny. It's easy to print otherwise, seems to accept paint really well, I made some other parts that didn't need to be food safe or used in the kitchen and they were painted gray, I enabled Ironing in Cura and the parts came out really, really clean on top, you could barely tell it was 3D printed from looking at the face. All in all, PETG is a good material all around but it is NOT the best filament for high temp application exceeding 150-160*F in my opinion. It is FAR from as flexible and forgiving as nylon is but you CAN get it to snap on as long as you don't flex too far, it seems to always return back to where it started on less it's deformed by heat. There's a lot of other filaments out there, a lot of which are hiding which are much higher HDT and still FDA approved, they are just surprisingly difficult to find. As a note on bed adhesion, my best results was, 230*C nozzle, print with a brim or a raft, whatever you want, but do print something to help with bed adhesion, blue tape and glue I print with a COLD BED. My printer is auto leveling and the glue dries quickly, even faster if the bed is hot, I'm using water washable glue which when wet, return to it's tacky style where stuff will stick to it, so I'll cover my bed with the glue and right before it prints, use a rag with some water on it and just wipe the bed gently where the print will be and it lays it down so it sticks really well. Then i'll either turn the bed heat on later or just leave it off, it seemed to make no difference to me. Hopefully this will help someone else who's trying to print PETG.
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