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  3. Hi Paul, Yes, I'll think @gr5 have a kit that is based on a 1:2 gear designed by @meduza. This is a good design IMO, but I do not think you can turn the feeder unit at this one, unless it is modified for for this. If this happen you can use it on both sides and with the original feeder unit turned (reversed). Maybe it can be modified to use the release handle I'm using? I'll think this might be a good combination. I'm sure gr5 can give an advice here. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir
  4. Hi Torgeir These feeder updates for the UM2 extended, can anyone supply a kit of parts with new fixing etc? Regards Paul
  5. Hi Bob, Here is a forum for "Anet A8 & Prusa i3" printers. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3 Thanks Torgeir
  6. I am selling my Ultimaker S5. Lightly used, purchased March 2019. I am a hobbyist and while the S5 is a great printer, it is more than I need and I have decided to sell it. It has only used a couple of reels of filament overall. Screen shots of the total usage are below. List price $4,995 Included: - Ultimaker S5 - Ultimaker filament: About a quarter reel of Black PLA, half reel of Natural PVA, and about 80% of a reel of white TPU. - 4 print cores total: Two AA 0.4 and two BB 0.4 (S5 normally comes with one AA and one BB, I purchased one extra of each, so this includes two extra cores). See my note below about the extra BB core. - Original box Condition: - Printer is overall in excellent condition and works well, especially with PLA and TPU - Only issue I’ve had with the S5 is using the dual extrusion with the PVA filament. It may be a combination of me being an amateur or perhaps humidity in the room, but I haven’t had reliable performance with PVA. Otherwise the printer is excellent. Dual extrudes great with other filament types like TPU. - Before listing, I cleaned and tested 3 of the 4 print cores. My extra BB 0.4 core still seems to be gummed up - you may need to do a few more cleaning cycles. For the purposes of this listing, consider the extra BB core to be an “extra” that should work after more cleaning cycles, but I am not guaranteeing it. It’s basically an extra that I’ve thrown in for free. - I recommend when you receive the printer to do a full calibration cycle etc. For your protection and for mine, I am planning to transact via PayPal for Goods and Services or similar. I am based in the Washington DC area, and pickup is preferable but if we need to ship in the US, we can work it out.
  7. so even if you have your g-code flavor set to marlin and not (marlin-volumetric) in machine settings you can still select relitive extrusion in the settings menu and its explination explains basically a volumetric extrusion setting i have enabled it and disabled it producing ugly prints when on id like some clarification on this setting if you know what it does gr5
  8. No I have almost never seen private sellers accept returns, however in case something is not right or was not described appropriately, honest buyer/parties work out a solution. If you sell via PayPal, I as a buyer would only purchase via PayPal Goods and Services. That means, you should take good pictures and list the details as accurately as possible. On receiving, if I as a buyer find discrepancies, I can open a dispute with Paypal and the resolution would likely result in the buyer sending the printer back and getting their money. As a seller, you can protect against fraudulent Paypal disputes by taking lots of pictures and describing the printer in detail.
  9. volumetric setting is not in the cura profile settings. It's in the machine settings. You have to do "manage printers".
  10. Very soon I will be listing my Ultimaker S5 for sale. Gently used. I bought just over a year ago, so it’s just out of hardware warranty. Question, is it customary when selling a used printer to accept returns when no longer under hardware warranty?
  11. Hi, Now its possible to print with cura, we added them in. But soon will be integrated as bundle in next release of cura. Check this out.: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7829#issuecomment-636366975
  12. Relative extrusion has nothing to do with volumetric stuff. Equalize Filament Flow is closer in concept.
  13. I have also seen this problem I mean I doubt its the case but make sure volumetric is not on in cura, I believe the setting is called (RELETIVE EXTRUSION) also turn off all flow rate compensations, and overlap compensations. but most of all if you change the Flow percentage as a whole It must change in the UI for all extrusion paths you plan to lower it on possibly no one will confirm the problem because you must lower all flow settings, further more if you have over ridden you're extrusion with to 120% 0.45 instead of 0.4 changing the flow will only take you down to that with so a double wall will never be smaller than 0.9 even with the flow lowered. try running the same test with spirilise outer contour on then find you're line with with flowrate and set you're line with in cura before running a double wall test if 1 wall is .48 try changing that value instead of flow then you,re overall size should be much closer
  14. PLEASE don't kill this thread I have been experiencing the same issues after upgrading my ender 3 currently testing to figure this out and could defiantly use some added insight to the issue just a hint tho.... this is driver related picture are on the way but i first began experiencing this after upgrading my ender 3 pro with the SKR MINI E3 V1.2 board with the 2209 in UART after trying everything z screw related and even equipping the printer with the 3d fused Lin rails BTW there not a great upgrade but there ok, I finally realised this had to be firmware related so i tryed many different marlin configurations running the steppers in 1/4- 1/8 stepping with and withought the 256 interpolation changed the r sense current and was seeing small improvements believe it or not i couldn't !!! SO i have since purchased the SKR MINI E3 DIP, SKR PRO V1.1 and the SKR 1.4 BOARDS as well as a set of SKR 2130 V3.0, PANUCATT TMC2209 eaasy uart and of course a bunch of A4988 drivers and hears where I'm at to date. Using any of the 3 STEP-STICK SKR boards outfitted with A4988 drivers I get great prints or at least i do not have layer shifts with the TMC2209 drivers on the XYZ and a A4988 driver on the E0 I get good prints but I have to tune my extrusion down to 88% for the outer wall and 95% inner wall in cura with the overlap at 10% all of this I never had to do when my Machine was stock I have re-calibrated the extrusion steps played with the jerk setting and acceleration and have since tried the full set of 2130 drivers on all 4 axes with these tuned extrusion setting and am finally seeing results but noting compared to the amazing quality i was seeing with my stock ender 3 my opinion is that these boards are not properly hardware configured and the change in directions in back feeding the extruders stepper using an A4988 in 16x micro-stepping requires more voltage/ current to move a step or to hold making the tiny fluctuation have less effect on the extruder BTW i see this with my multi-meter and oscilloscope on the board so its not a question of weather its happening its weather its causing the e stepper to loose accuracy. I have spend some money trying to solve this issue and now that i know others are experiencing it too maybe we can figure it out AGAIN pics are coming I just stumbled on this thread and I'm hoping its still alive anyway hope it is
  15. I am looking for a replacement fan unit for my Ultimaker 2 extended the one which cools the hot print block heatsink. The one on mine is really noisy but still spins, also i read that some users have moved the fan slightly away from the heatsink. Do I need to purchase metal standoff posts and slightly longer fixings. if anyone can supply details on fan assembly etc, i am in the UK so if RS or Farnell do them that would be great or of course ebay. Regards Paul
  16. Hi Paul, When I'm looking at your first picture, It looks like the temperature is a little lo. However, if this is PLA, it should normally flow easily and roll upon the clip nicely. As you have had some feed of plastic (PLA) and now there is none, I'll believe this due to some sort of obstruction in the extruder. So no temp problem, people have been trying to rice temperature in order to get flow, but instead burnt all filament stuck inside the heat block. You may also check if the "hot end" cooling fan (the aft one) is working, if not the filament will melt "high" up in the extruder and glue it stuck -just another posibillity. When we finish a print, we need to remove the filament and store it in a sealed bag in order to avoid humidity contamination. Good Luck Just ask in here, here is plenty of skilled people here to help you! Thanks Torgeir
  17. Hi cesern and Paul, Actually, I've made a mistake posting this one in the wrong topics. I did not use much money on my feeder, but some parts and work for drawing etc. Well for this modifiation, I’ve used between 25-25 USD including freighth. Sure, excluding the tools mentioned. You will need: 1 ea shaft diameter 5 mm and length 45 mm. The shaft for the “knurled wheel” filament drive & GT2-32 pulley. 2 Bearing 5mm (shaft) 10mm (outer diameter) 4mm (width) 1 Pulley GT2-32-5-6 ~USD 5 1 Pulley GT2-6-5-6 ~USD 5 (for the feeder stepper motor) 1 Belt 200-GT2 ~USD 6 (pack of 5 ea.) 11 ea SST Screw 3mm x 10mm (2mm hex key) 2 ea SST Screw 3mm x 30mm (2mm hex key) 2 ea SST Screw 3mm x 25mm (2mm hex key) 10 ea SST Washer 3mm (id) 6.6mm(od) 1 Hexagon (Umbraco) key 1.5mm (for the knurled wheel & GT2-16 pulley) 1 Hexagon (Umbraco) key 2.0mm (GT2-32 pulley – standard for all UM screws) Note: SST = Stainless steel (is not magnetic) Pulleye GT2-32-5-6 Belt type 2mm (tooth space) 32 tooth, 5mm shaft and 6 (6.35mm) belt width. Since the screw holes are threaded (3mm fine), it is wise to use threaded tool to clear out any "plastic remains" as this may cause crack in the wall due to the extra pressure this may cause. The belt I’ve used 200 GT2, is the same type of belt that is used from X & Y steppers (200 mm GT2 belt). Doing so, as I’ve only have two types of belt in my printer (as before) and as this will lift the bowden tube approx 3” you can cut the original tube length 2 times. This to address the wear that’s occur at both sides of this tube. Just a little warning here, if you’re using the advanced menu to feed the filament through the bowden tube (705mm), then if the tube is to short -it might go with full speed into the extruder!!! So do not do this.. Now some pictures: Feeder Unit Details 1 Feeder Unit Details 2 Feeder Unit Details 3 Feeder Unit Details 4 A few word about this modification. If you want to do this modification, you can use the old stepper motor. As there is a single stage gear, the turning direction will be reversed, however as you turn around the feeder this does not matter. The only thing to change is the number of step, as we need to double this number. So for a standard UM2, the stepper amount is 282. This modification using a 400 step/rev we'll change the rate by *2 = 564. As the track line (from the knurled wheel) now is changed to inside loop of (most of the time) the bowden tube, the benefit is less drag forces due to less friction. Friction can only be between 0 and 1, but drag can be any number! I will sure add some more in here soon. Thanks Torgeir
  18. I have a tool changing printer. 1. Is there an option to copy print settings from one extruder (tool) to another? 2. Is there a way to make the button"Save to removable" to be always "Save to File". I have to go through changing this every time. Why not have multiple button in view, so you can just click once? 3. The build plate extruder can be different to the print extruder. Why would you want to extrude with one extruder but then print with another. Why not make the build plate adhesion extruder default to the one selected for the part? Thanks for any replies.
  19. Yup! For SW you should also click Save As, choose type STL, then left bottom set the options to pretty fine resolution. Then it will look best in the slicer.
  20. Hi Paul, Forgot to say, If you need to adjust the feeder tension pressure, you need to use a hex key, turning counter clock wise increase the pressure. Good luck Torgeir
  21. Hi Paul, Have you ever tried to clean the nozzle? There is a method named atomic pull, but read it carefully. Look at this site: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=UM+nozzle+cleaning+atomic+metod#kpvalbx=_e2vSXpmBKMbc6ASDu4uQBQ24 Torgeir
  22. Check the indicator on the feeder side, about half scale setting should be ok.. Torgeir
  23. Hi Paul, Just saw this.. Can you see if the knurled wheel is spinning on the back, grinding the filament? Try to help feeding by pushing the filament into the feeder, if this help it might be the coupler. Let's see this. Torgeir
  24. Sorry folks, I've made a mistake as this one should be erased. I've put it into here:
  25. Hi Torgeir Well I have make the heat plat set as 60 oC and the print head is set at 200o C. But it looks like I have a flow issue, i removed material and then re-entered it and did the advance on material movement out of the print head but nothing coming out. Can't see any PLA coming out the sides, I can re-tract the material moving the control wheel the other way, then go forward. No sure what i should try next. could it be the temperature heater not actually getting up to 200 oC? As I say I am a newbie. Regards Paul
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