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  3. Im Prinzip würdest du es ja nur auf den äusseren Schichten nicht haben wollen. Im Innern kann es ja schon so aussehen. Es gab für alte Cura Versionen mal ein PlugIn mit dem das machbar war. Alle Versuche dies auf neue Cura Versionen anzuwenden, sind bisher gescheitert.
  4. Ja hab das Orginal Board drin mit anderer Firmenware drauf . leider kann ich aus dem Text nicht rauslesen da ich dem englisch nicht mächtig bin 😞
  5. I think this is a good idea. Though I agree that the root cause is the leveling. But for beginners to do a good leveling is difficult. Because it is not really a measurable thing. It requires quite a lot experience. So why not make the tool do more that we could get started. Instead of being frustrated and leave.
  6. Here is someone else who printed with the nozzle too far from the bed. It barely stuck at all. You are probably somewhere in between - not sticking well but not as bad as the below photo shows. You can verify this by pushing the bed closer to the nozzle (if you have a cantilevered bed).
  7. As you can see in this picture - I printed a single layer only and the "P" in "Paul" for example came out exactly as desired.
  8. So I have the opposite problem. The bottom layer prints perfectly but the hole gets smaller as you move to higher layers. You need to "squish" more. You need the bed closer to the nozzle. What kind of printer is this? What kind of "leveling" procedure do you use? More on getting the bottom layer to stick well:
  9. maybe the nozzle is too close. Maybe the nozzle is too far from the glass. Try pushing the glass up and down while it prints initially. maybe the filament ground up too much at the feeder. Push some filament through by hand while it's printing the bottom layer.
  10. 1) @Welverynyou are chaning the subject. Please post a new topic. 2) Did you install 5.2 upgrade? There is a known bug in 5.2 (latest firmware as of today, april 25, 2019) where XY Calibration does not work anymore on UM3 and S5 with latest upgrade. The workaround is to manually feed the second extruder when it starts drawing the lines with the second core.
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  12. Ein Sunon Lüfter war wohl auch zuvor verbaut oder? Ist das nicht vielleicht ein üblicher 80x80 lüfter? Von denen findet man einige bei ebay, aber bei 75x75 sieht es sogar über ebay hinaus sehr mager aus. Denke nicht, dass es sich Ultimaker in den frühen Jahren leisten konnte einen Lüfter nach eigenem Maß anfertigen zu lassen 😉
  13. Some days things just work out. So if anyone is actually interested, I moved the Z control over to the E2 port. Managed to work out what I did so many years back and did the same for this port. Brief summary Used a Marlin version of the firmware Swapped pins in pins.h //Original /* #define Z_STEP_PIN35 #define Z_DIR_PIN 36 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 34 */ //New #define Z_STEP_PIN 49 #define Z_DIR_PIN 47 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 48 //Original /* #define E1_STEP_PIN 49 #define E1_DIR_PIN 47 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 48 */ //New #define E1_STEP_PIN 35 #define E1_DIR_PIN 36 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 34 Compiled and it failed because of an old bug / typo where "fpos_t" should have been "filepos_t" Just did a search and replace for all, compile, find more in other dependent files, repeat until it compiled OK. Uploaded, worked!
  14. Gave up a while back but I really want to get this up and running again. My PC running Windows 10 can see the board, it shows up as Arduino Mega 2560 under com ports Cura just doesn't see it at all. Now rocking version 4.0.0 Can I upgrade the firmware via the Arduino IDE? Every search I have tried brings me back to the "use Cura" instructions.
  15. taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  16. It seems really difficult to peform a XY calibration. Actually I tried to, but I had a big bug on the BB print. The extruder always trying to push in and push out the filament (is it a normal behavior?). Then I have a really bad result on the glass, which is not enough relevant to perform the calibration. I guess... Can you help me to understand?
  17. Hallo, Hast noch das UM2 Board? Das ist das einzige woran ich mich erinnern kann ist dies: Weis nicht was da der aktuelle stand ist Gruß
  18. Thank you very much, I've ordered springs thanks to you! I also changed the Printcore, buy a new one and installed it. It was strange because I found something in the new printecore, like a really really thin plastic wire, and I did not success to remove it. So I let it in and charge the Printcore with. It seems to work well. So now, The error from the auto leveling has disappeared. I will wait for the spring and then I will manually set the bed. Unfortunately, it seems that the XY calibration is really hard to perform. Actually, the BB Printcore print like nothing really well (see in the attached picture). The extruder for this nozzle is always trying to push in push out. Is it a normal behavior? Can you help me to understand? Thanks very much for your support
  19. Found the bug. Made the changes on the script with FreeCAD 0.18, but some functions are not backwards compatible to 0.17. Made it working for both now.
  20. That did the trick. Thank you.
  21. Merci beaucoup pour les conseils. En changeant de Printcore l'erreur est partie !
  22. There is no option to store this data in another location.
  23. Deutsch? In deutscher Abteil ist deutsch schreiben erlaubt bzw. erwünscht😉 Hier aktuell ein gleiches Thread: Gruß
  24. Kurze Aufklärung: Es wird nicht in der Bewegung gedruckt sonder es wird kein retract ausgeführt und dadurch läuft etwas Material raus. Eine einfache Möglichkeit dies zu verhindern wäre das Combing umzuschalten (z.B. auf "Innerhalb der Füllung"). Ein Problem könnte sein, da es auf den ganzen Teil angewendet wird, entstehen mehr/viele Retracts die andere Probleme mit sich bringen können. Gruß Gerd
  25. I would go with this. I would let the print and plate thoroughly cool before submerging in water.
  26. Hallo, mein Radiallüfter an meinem UMO hat einen Lagerschaden und scheppert ganz ordentlich. Ich finde aber ums verrecken keinen Ersatz. Die Dimensionen des Lüfters sind pi mal Daumen ca. 75 x 75 mm und ca 24mm Höhe. Am besten wäre vielleicht ein Sunon? Weiß jemand, wo ich Ersatz für meinen bekomme? Ich hatte einen gefunden, aber der ist 30mm hoch und passt somit nicht unten rein. Das ist der Lüfter, der die Bauteile am Board des UMO kühlt. Danke für eure Tips. LG Sebastian
  27. Hallo gibt es beim UM2 eine Option für Filamentsensor nachzurüsten? Danke für eure Hilfe und Info Gruß
  28. Have you tried the same test cube with the printers original software? If this print works, I would suggest comparing the G-code of both slicers. Maybe you can trace back from where wrong parameters come from. 😉
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