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  2. Oh! I'm glad you figured it out then!
  3. @Peter_Oxford - I was speaking to your claim above. I was explaining that it does make sense. At least for me. If you look at the settings I mention, all of them apply to all materials. I don't usually mess with temperature and that's pretty much the only setting that changes for materials.
  4. It would also help if you posted a project file. Do "File" "Save...". I think only for the pimount file. Sorry to ask for so much.
  5. Today
  6. Please disregard I reset Cura and it's working properly now.
  7. Okay, great, I measure the temperature again in 10 hours. The current print job takes about one day. See you soon
  8. I am new to 3D printing. I have been using Cura for a few days now with great success. My daughter just gave me a file she wants printed it was created with InDesign and Tinker. I loaded into Cura sliced it and attempted to print but it failed. When I previewed the print job in Cura I see it is try to print the top layer 'before' printing the bottom support layers. How do I change the order? Thank you, Paul
  9. Thanks! It does help a lot. On the braking thing I think most printers actively brake, can’t imagine you can get any sort of repeatability with a belt drive if you switch the current off constantly, I might be wrong though. I’ll report back if I manage to find one of those ir thermometers somewhere in the factory. Thanks again.
  10. It varies. Depending on the printer (its driver and software). The stepper motors are driven and braked with current. The more current the more heat. It is also a difference whether motors are actively braked or just switched currentless. I hope this helps a little.
  11. Yesterday
  12. It's hot right now. It hurts. But the printer has only been running for half an hour. In three hours at 60 degrees, it'll be like a hot plate.That doesn't mean anything. I also work with my hands. The printer has 26 degrees outside.
  13. The BB core can also clog with PVA. It is not very unusual for a core to clog. The deposits in the pressure nozzle turn into carbon over time. (Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, filament to coal) An acupuncture needle helps well. But generally , manual heating helps well . If the blockage is higher than the pressure nozzle, a cleaning is difficult. Cold and hot blocked are then not feasible. (Then I also use a brass rod M3 to press material.) Although personally I would just buy a new core. I think. I give $100 and get two hours of free time and the problem solves itself. Or I work on it for one and two hours and afterwards I am not sure if it would have been better to buy a new one. I'm not trashing the old Cores for this. One day I'll work on it 🙂
  14. I agree that it can be subjective but have no easy way of measuring the temperature on them right now. I guess I’ll have to get a thermocouple or something but quite frankly I don’t think I should need to babysit a machine like this, especially brand new. They are hot enough to be disturbing so I feel that does count for something, they are in an air conditioned room so summer Is not THAT much of a factor. For example on a Prusa I can touch the steppers for any length of time and they just feel warm, the S5 being enclosed I expected somewhat higher temperatures but nothing like what I’m feeling. I’ll report back when/if I get some measurements but I do feel that the question is still valid, can or can you not put a finger on the steppers while they’ve been running? I’m just trying to figure out if I should be alarmed enough to start wasting time measuring temps or not.
  15. Hello Touching something hot with your finger is very subjective. - The stepper motors have thermal power. It's the same in summer, of course. Only the resulting temperature at the stepper motors is higher. - In summer, you are more sensitive to damp skin. In winter and autumn I also touch parts with 100 degrees Celsius for a short time. (I often weld aluminum) In summer the 80 degrees Celsius of a printing plate already frightens me as if it was 200. Only one measurement would be objective. How well stepper motors can be moved also depends on the gear reduction and the electronic motor drivers. The S5 has a higher reduction ratio than the previous models. The drivers could be different (I haven't looked). For reliable statements you should measure the temperature and current consumption. Everything else is strange. No offense meant! Many greetings Christian
  16. Hi rmerlo, In general if you can hold your finger at two second, it's quite normal I'll say.. This also depend of the length and temp setting of your printer while printing your object. Back then, these stepper motors was very hot and you could easily burn your finger if you touched it. Thanks Torgeir
  17. I've tried countless times to get the Ultimaker PVA to stick to the ASA as a support material. It won't stick at all it drags across the part or just builds up around the nozzle. Thinking it may be moisture I dried the PVA a couple of times on the print bed with the printer enclosed to help hold the heat in(and I store it in a zip lock bag with desiccant). It still did the same thing every time. I tried raising the PVA temp a little at a time up to as high as 240c, lowering the temp down to 215c (I started at 220c). slowing it down(30mm/sec). Lowering the standby temp of the PVA nozzle. Lowering the build plate temp down to 60c, 3Dxtech recommends " 90-110°C, cool the bed down by about 10-20°C after the first couple of layers". Any changes I tried I did one at a time. The PVA works well as a support when I use it with PLA. I wrote to 3DXtech and they said their ASA works well with Ultimaker PVA but I may have to raise the temp of the PVA. Do I have to go higher then 240c? I just can't figure it out. Thanks for any help you can give me.
  18. Here are the gcode files. I do not use the gcode files to print from, I use an x3g file since that is what is recommended in the manual. Again, the narwhal is what prints, the other two do not. narwhal3.gcode pimount.gcode ssdmount.gcode
  19. Thank you so far for the support, but that is exactly what I did accept the default settings. I have attached the file I am using. Paid for and downloaded of a youtube site..... using a Ultimaker S3.... It is a brillant machine but when I slice and print everything is fused together except .5mm The rest is solid... Makers Muse Clearance and Tolerance Gauge.STL
  20. I always had this enabled in past Cura versions. Now in the last two or three it does not work. I have disbaled and re-enabled, reinstalled, etc. This feature no longer works. Please add it to bug fix. Thanks.
  21. Ein bisschen "off-topic" (hier im Ultimaker-Forum), aber egal...: Das ist ziemlich üblich bei diesen günstigen Druckern. Wenn "mesh bed compensation" nicht zur Verfügung steht, bastelt man sich das oft mit ein paar Lagen Klebeband so weit zurecht, das es einigermassen funktioniert. So wie hier in dem Video (ist nur ein Beispiel - davon gibt es massenweise...) Z-Hop würde ich auch wieder ausschalten, der wird eigentlich nur für Delta-Drucker wirklich gebraucht. Schau Dir mal die Hilfetexte zum "Combing Mode" an. Ich glaube der Suchbegriff in der deutschen Version ist "Kamm" oder so ähnlich. (ich glaube, der original-Begriff ist auch schon irreführend - "combining" würde besser passen - aber das ist wohl "historisch gewachsen"...)
  22. Hi, I can't help with your problem, but the attached files (STLs) don't help finding the issue. It would be good if you post the gcode file that works and a gcode file, that doesn't print, and perhaps the corresponding cura project files. These are the informations, the gcode-cracks in this forum normally need 😉. Regards
  23. The tweeks and options in the "custom" section are overwhelming. Sometimes it's easier to start with the "Recommended" section and -if the "intent profiles" are available, as for the S-series, choose the spot that matches the desired result. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30191-ultimaker-cura-44-released-with-new-intent-profiles/ Regards
  24. Vielleicht auch zu berücksichtigen. Der Anycubic i3 Mega hat vier Stellschrauben für den Tisch und eine Glasplatte. Zu stark anziehen darf man die Schrauben am Tisch womöglich auch nicht sonst verspannt sich die Platte. Es sieht jedefalls dannach aus.
  25. Meine Eingebung zum zu Leveln. Eine Aluplatte dehnt sich beim erhitzen und das wird bei der Beschreibung komplett übersehen. Wie macht man es richtig? 1. Erhitze dein Druckbett auf die Bett-Temperatur des Filaments, das du nutzen wirst. 2. Die Düse erhitzt du auch auf die zu dem Filament passende Temperatur. Wenn beides die Temperatur stabil erreicht hat, nimmst du ein ganz ordinäres DIN-A4 Druckerpapier (bedrucktes Papier für die Tonne) und kein Thermo-Papier... 3. Teste an allen 4 Ecken und in der Mitte. Die Höhe ist richtig eingestellt, wenn sich in allen 5 Testpunkten das Papier unter der Nase mit einem leicht hör- und spürbaren Kratzen bewegt, vorzugsweise an jeder Stelle gleichmäßig. Prüfe dies mehrfach, da jede Drehung an den 4 Schrauben die Höhe beeinflusst. Wenn du damit durch bist und die vier Ecken gleich sind, dann sollte auch die Mitte einigermaßen passen, falls nicht: noch mal von vorn, bis du auch in der Mitte ein wenig Grip hast. 5. Nun ein Einlayer-Testdruck - vorzugsweise größer als 20x20 mm. 50x50 wäre schon angebrachter. Der Layer muß (!) gleichmäßig aufgebracht und ohne Lücken sein. Bezüglich Höhendifferenz wäre es von Vorteil, diese Werte auch zu verstehen. Du wirst nirgends eine Floatglas-Scheibe finden, die einen Höhenunterschied von 0,2 mm auf einem 300x300 mm Stück hat! Ich weiß, dass solche Behauptungen immer mal gerne kolportiert werden. Spezialisten leisten besonderes - insbesondere, wenn sie sich Experten nennen. Zum Verständnis, Glasplatten werden in Größen von über 3 m Breite gefertigt. Da darf es dann zwischen ganzen Platten diese Toleranz geben. Wenn du bei einer 300mm Platte eine solche Höhendifferenz hast, hat dir jemand Produktionsabfall verkauft, was eigentlich unmöglich ist, da solcher Schrott sofort wieder in die Wanne als Rohmaterial wandert... In all den Jahren, in denen ich auf Glas drucke, habe ich noch keine einzige Scheibe mit dem Problem gefunden. Ich drucke PET-G fast ausschließlich auf ordinärem Float-Glas, gemeinhin auch Fensterglas genannt (4 oder 6 mm Stärke, i.d.R. Verschnittabfall). Retract: Bei 6 mm ziehst du wahrscheinlich schon Luft in dein Hotend. Ich wiederhole aus meinem vorherigen Post: Messe 120 mm Filament am Anfang des Extruders ab, fördere 100 mm Filament durch das auf die richtige Temperatur eingestellte Düse. Danach messe was von deinen 120mm übrig geblieben ist. Es sollten 20 mm sein. Wenn nicht, musst du entweder die E-Steps anpassen oder den Durchfluss-Faktor korrigieren. Letzteres würde ich machen, wenn man unterschiedliche Filamente und Herstellern nutzt. Ersteres würde ich wahrscheinlich machen, wenn ein Drucker immer nur ein Material benutzt oder die Werte abseits von gut und böse liegen. Z-Sprung: Sei vorsichtig damit, der erhoffte Vorteil kann ganz schnell auch ins Gegenteil drehen. Lass den erst mal weg. Dein Hauptproblem liegt erst mal in den Grundeinstellungen, als da wären: Leveln und Durchflußmenge. Wenn dies passt, kannst du dich um weitere Dinge, wie Filamenttemperaturen, Retract und Druckgeschwindigkeiten kümmern. Deine ersten Druckversuche mache bitte mit langsamer Geschwindigkeit. Schaue nach, was dein Filamentlieferant als niedrigsten Wert vorschlägt und den benutze dann in den Einstellungen des Slicers. Später, wenn alles läuft, kannst du mit diesen Werten experimentieren.
  26. So I Import the stl file from another site and then open in Ulitimaker Cura.... there are a whole load of options in the right hand settings.☺..... however I have been looking for ideas on what to change or focus on that will allow the objects to move....
  27. Hi, try the Engineering profile in Cura (should be available for the S3). They are optimized for accuracy. Regards
  28. I have this same issue on an S5. The logs fill up with ~85MB over several days, filling the device entirely. At that point, the S5 shows as being on the network, but is basically inoperable. There are three ways I've found to get the printer back into an operable state: 1) Factory Reset 2) Cura Connect Reset 3) SSH into the printer, and clean the log files directory, then reboot the printer (via the CLI) Once one of those three steps is taken, the printer will be operable again for between 2 and 10 days, at which point the cycle repeats. The root cause appears to be network connectivity issues - the printer appears to have network connectivity issues when under load (the laptop next to the printer does not exhibit any connectivity issues, and the printer is showing full signal). I see excessive avahi logs, as well as the printer's software having trouble getting firmware version information, or hitting its own API, causing it to log large python stack traces. Long term, it would be great to get a more stable network connection, as this has other issues (Cura will frequently not be able to show the status of the print, despite the printer thinking it has a network connection - this will come and go as a print is operating). Short term, monitoring the size of the log directory and removing old files, or modifying the rotation settings would be a great help.
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