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  2. Suggestions on how to proceed then? It's saying the same for all of these different .stl files? output-17.stl output-16.stl output-15.stl
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  5. If anyone would want to try out the files that I'm using... S5.zip
  6. Hello @hackurs, according to the Cura mesh tools plugin, this model has a problem...
  7. Hallo Schmiddie, ich habe Dünnwand ausprobiert von 0.01 bis 0.1mm mit Layerhöhe 0.2 bei 0.3mm Linienbreite. Cura hat eigentlich keine Probleme mit 0.01mm Wandung, nur die Linienbreite und Schichthöhe muss man anpassen. Ab 0.1mm Wandung kann man mit 0.3 Linienbreite und Schichthöhe 0,2mm gut slicen aber druckbar keine Ahnung. Du könntest versuchen dein Druckbett auf 500x500x500 oder so zu ändern und den Drachen auf 100X zu skalieren und damit slicen. Sollte die Wandung 0.01 sein und mal 100 ist = 0.1mm und sollte damit slicebar sein, wenn nicht Linienbreite und Layerhöhe etwas reduzieren und sollte es trotzdem nichts zu sehen sein, dann ist die Wandung wahrschein 0.001mm oder so.
  8. Thanks @gr5 for the replay again! I attached a picture of the machine. The print head and extruder are attached to the bar and the bar raises and lowers with a single a axis rod. I didn't have any 1 kg weights, so I made a temporary one. It's about 1.2kg. I made it out of change and zip tied it to the side of the x gantry. When I added the weight I also noticed that the x gantry falls by its self and stops about 3mm short of hitting the bed. I reprinted the same square and it was identical to before with a small improvement. However, I still notice a few lines that look really bad especially towards the top. My extruder has been calibrated. It was set to 1 for this print as for all the others too. I thought that it might be over extruding but I printed out a cube with a single wall and the wall measured .47 to .49 mm. My line width was set for .48. Thanks!
  9. Yes, but not very helpful. I would prefer to see the first layer more from the top. But you can't have everything. 🙂 Yes it is... Another tip, if you're using an external camera, be sure to buy one with a wide-angle lens, everything else won't give you a decent overview.
  10. Has anyone used Colorfabb's LW-PLA? If so what kind of settings are you using? I'm interested in trying out the material. It seems to get similar results to Ultimaker PLA you want around 230-235C for the nozzle, and flow to 40%?
  11. Well with this angle, you can't even see the first layer. Oh well. At least you have helped me confirm that this is normal.
  12. This is more or less normal and is no longer visible after the 2nd layer. The reason can be an uneven bed, a slightly thicker layer of glue stick is enough and the distance between nozzle and glass is a bit too low. You could also try to go a little lower with the temperature, this can also help.
  13. You are right, but it's a compromise to see the entire build room. Personally I would prefer to see the first layers, but on the other side, when I start a print I am usually at the printer. The camera position is always a problem even if you are using an external camera, you will have to find a compromise. But I can also tell you from my own experience that the constant observation of the camera stops with time. You only have to look if the object is finished or if everything is ok and then the camera angle doesn't really matter. And in the meantime I prefer the built solution more than external ones, because you have no additional things and cables around your printer.
  14. I am sure this has been covered, but unless I am missing the idea here, this camera angle doesn't provide much info does it? I am wanting to adapt an external camera.
  15. I am watching m printer set the first layer and I am noticing the artifacts below. this is UM PLA. Any ideas what could be causing this? I am using the OTTB settings for UM PLA.
  16. Hi, mittlerweile habe ich das Problem behoben. Da bei den meisten Teile keine nennenswert hohen Bauteilbelastungen aushalten müssen, drucke ich zuerst die Wände und anschließend die Füllung (nennt sich „Infill before walls“). Somit kommt es so gut wie keiner Berührung zwischen der Nozzel und dem gedruckten Bauteil. Ebenfalls ist hat sich die Qualität der Außenwand verbessert, deutlich ebener und kaum Abzeichnungen der Füllung.
  17. I have two S5's, the newest one has had this z-axis jump and noise when it raises to position. It acts like the Z-axis rods are not aligned and making it bind during the travel. It now appears to be getting worse. ANy ideas on how to fix this?
  18. I never had that thin string between the different parts, only solid drops of plastic. The following image is the result I have with retraction disabled or set under 3 mm, it is just the same:
  19. And when you try to reconnect it in Cura itself?
  20. Hello @Rigid, I think the problem is with the model as Cura's mesh tools report that it isn't watertight and the x-ray view shows lots of red.
  21. If a simple power off/on of the printer doesn't help you can try a Cura Connect reset on the printer. You can find this option in the maintenance menu if I can remember correctly.
  22. Help! I must have done something wrong when changing print cores from AA 0.4 to AA 0.8...the printer accepted the new print core but didn't start my print. Now the print core is STUCK but the UMs5 says no print core is loaded. When I try to "load" the print core, it just tells me to insert until it clicks, but since the print core is already inserted it won't read it and I cannot get the printer to think there's somethin g there so I can then unload. I am also unable to remove the bowden tube to pull out the material to then remove the print core. I also do not know how to clean the back of the print core since it's already loaded. What do I do?
  23. Hello! I have no idea anymore. My Ultimaker 3 always makes the same mistake. As you can see on the photos, I always have dropouts on the same spot. Repeatable. Top Left Left/Right Bottom and Right Top - no problems I have already tried the following: - different temperatures - different cooling - different velocities - different positions on the printing bed - Cura 4.2 and 4.3 - Filament diameter measured - different line widths - Axes aligned (with calibration sticks) - Fan controlled - Drive belt tensioned - different Printcores I'm grateful for any advice!
  24. Yep, checked that. It is the Cura update that started this. There is no start or end coseds in the profiles for both (2+ and 2+EX). Been going thru all my settings and can't find the code that makes nozzle go into purge pile. never used to do that. It would move XYZ after purge to start location and now it Z moves to about 1mm then XY to start location. Hope this helps explain what its doing. regardless, I'm leaving the brush on as its nice to wipe the purge before the print starts. 🙂
  25. On the older spools I have the material is indicated: PS (=polystyreen). Other spools might be ABS, PC,... I don't know about the newest spools. So yes, these old ones should be recyclable. (But I am not an Ultimaker representative, but just a user, so this is not official.) But even if the spool would not be recycled, but only recollected in the general "rest" fraction of garbage, and be burned, it is probably still way more environmentally friendly than glass or cardboard. Cardboard requires killing lots of trees to produce it. And glass requires 100x more energy to melt it than plastic. And you don't get any energy back from it at the end of its lifecycle (which for glass bottles is only 6x re-use, plus a lot of dangerous chemical cleaning liquids in-between). Modern burning-installations use the heat from burning garbage to produce electricity and warmth for heating buildings, or for industrial processes (for which otherwise other energy sources would have to be found). The exhaust gasses CO2 and H2O (carbondioxide and water vapour) are food for the plants and trees. Today there is not enough CO2 in the air, only 0.03% to 0.04%, and most plants are on the edge of extinction. Ideally, there should be between 4x and 10x more CO2 for optimal plant growth. Yes, way more CO2, not less. Which is scientifically proven in every glass greenhouse: they inject a lot of CO2 in their greenhouses to increase growth and production. The rule is: 10x more CO2 gives 6x to 7x more green, without you needing to do anything. Plants grow by themself. Then all deserts world-wide would become green again, automatically. The problem is not "lack of water" in the deserts, no, the problem is lack of CO2 to enable plant growth. If there is 10x more CO2, then plants don't have to open their pores as much to breathe in enough CO2, so they don't evaporate and lose as much moisture. Then the current amount of water in the desert is sufficient. This has been proven over and over again in test-environments. And if all deserts would be green again, covered in forest, earth temperature would go down a bit and then stabilise. Because the sunlight is absorbed by the trees and turned into wood and leafs, so it is used-up, and can no longer heat the surface. Wood is stored solar energy. And if the whole earth would be green again, with 6...7x more plants than now, there is enough food for everyone, and for all animals. This would be very benificial, obviously. The chemical formula is: CO2 + H2O + lots of sunlight energy ---> long C-H-O chains (=wood + leafs + juices) + O2. In words: carbondioxide and water are turned into wood, leafs, and juices, if there is enough sunlight as energy source. And oxygen is released. The O2 is the oxygen we need to breath. So we do exactly the opposite as plants: we eat green (vegetables, fruits, wheat, nuts,...; thus we eat stored solar energy) and we breathe oxygen in. Out of this we produce energy to move and to keep our body on temperature. And we exhaust CO2 and H2O. So, solar energy is first stored in plants, and then we eat these plants to release that solar energy in our body. We are running on "indirect solar energy". Any process that consumes oil, or gass, and that produces CO2, greatly helps the growth of trees and plants. CO2 is the most important life-gas on earth, without which no life would be possible. So, don't feel bad when you need to burn oil, gas or plastic. As long as you burn it cleanly, without producing too much sooth and particles. You are greening the planet and improving life. Long ago, the whole earth was covered in green. But bit by bit, the leafs felt on the ground, and all this carbon got entrapped under the surface of the land, in the form of coal, brown coal, oil and gas. So it could no longer be part of the life cycle. Today there is not enough carbon in the life-cycle anymore, on the surface, so life is dying. We should dig up all this entrapped carbon (coal, oil, gas,...), and burn it so it can be part of the life-cycle again. And so that we can make the whole earth green again. Yes, I know that my vision is not "politically correct", but it is definitely and absolutely scientifically correct. Life is dying because of lack of CO2: there is only 0.03 to 0.04%. Below 0.02%, plant growth is no longer possible. We are at the lower edge, plants are in CO2-hunger, and we need to dramatically increase CO2 output to survive. You can easily search for, and verify these things. This is basic high-school science. So, clearly, plastic is a very good product, even if not perfect. As long as you don't throw it in the environment, but you recycle it or cleanly burn it to regain its energy. Don't feel bad for using plastic, and for burning gas and oil. Don't feel bad for improving plant life and saving the earth.
  26. Die Funktion oder Option Print Thin Walls ist für vertikale Wände gedacht, bei dir sind es aber eher die horizontalen Bereiche die nicht geslict werden. Du kannst versuchen mit der Layer Höhe runter zu gehen und dann schauen ob die mit gesliced werden. Bei vertikalen Linien oder Wänden bist du trotz der Funktion "Print Thin Walls" von der Physik und vom Düsendurchmesser abhängig. Wenn du nun eine sehr dünne Linie mit z.B. 0.2mm hast und eine 0.4mm Düse, dann wird zwar versucht diese Linie trotzdem zu drucken, aber irgendwo ist dann auch die Grenze wo es nicht mehr geht. Dann müsstest du auf kleinere Düsen wechseln, wie 0.25 oder noch kleiner. Aber wie gesagt dein Problem könnte mit einer kleineren Layer Höhe z.B: 0.1 oder 0.06 gelöst werden können. Die Druckzeit steigt dann allerdings ziemlich an.
  27. Was running Cura 3.6. Downloaded the Cura 4.3 update. During the install of 4.3 an option to uninstall the old 3.6 version popped up. I chose yes, but was given the "unable to uninstall Cura 3.6. Would you like to install 4.3 anyway?" I chose Yes Cura 4.3 installation completes. I am prompted to "Launch Now" at the end of the installation. I choose "Yes" and I am faced with this error message: I run as Admin (even though I am an admin) and the same message. I have engineers needing to run this program on a company computer. I figure I will just run the old 3.6 version.: I choose Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 (has been running perfectly since March until now) I now cannot open the OLD version and get the same error: I have been searching through forums for 2+ hours and have tried everything. The compatibility mode solution, the uninstaller does not work from either program file or the control panel, I have check the Security Tab under properties and I have full control. Please help!!
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