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  2. Currently not. It would require the infill extruder setting to be a per-model-setting.
  3. I am trying to print a part with two materials. I need to fill one section with nozzle 1 and infill with nozzle 1 and then when i switch to nozzle 2 , and i want the infill to also be nozzle 2 . Cura 4.2.1 says " The settings is always shared between all extruders " it always sets the infill to one default nozzle. I cannot independently select the infill nozzle. Is there already a method to remove this link between nozzle settings ? Is there a work around ?
  4. Today
  5. @Daid This is now more important that the material station cannot accept anything other than one colour of each non ultimaker filament. Even material alliance filaments cannot have more than one colour loaded into the material station.
  6. Sicher, dass dein Abstand Bett Nozzle noch stimmt/gleichmäßig ist? Wenn ich den inneren "Kreis" der ersten Schicht so ansehe, hat sich der "Faden" schon überlegt, mitzuwandern. Daher diese Eckige Außenkontur - ist ja mehr 8-eck wie rund. Da würde ich vermuten, dass entweder der Abstand etwas zu groß gewählt ist oder das Bett nicht sauber gelevelt ist und sich dadurch in Bereichen mehr Abstand als in anderen ergibt (Bett hängt nach einer Seite). Links sieht es jedenfalls so aus, als ob da schon der Faden sich gelöst hätte und quer rüber gezogen hätte. Da das Objekt auf den Kopf steht, wohl die rechte Betthälfte. Ich vermute mal, rechts hängt es etwas und ist insgesamt grenzwertig groß, der Abstand. Gruß, Digibike
  7. Interesting. I was running my bed at 80-95*C and it still wouldn't stick well, now I'm running the bed cold with glue and it seems to stick really well. It ran a 3 hour print yesterday and it stuck really well, print also came out really nice so I think i'll go with a cold bed for now. I got blue masking tape on it, nozzle temp is 230-235*C and running the bed at 0*C but it's around 30*C while printing, probably just ambient temp in the box. Put some glue stick on it before it prints and it seems to work good. Better than with a hot bed and the print isn't getting messed up so that's good. You are printing directly onto the glass, with no form of adhesion on the glass? I couldn't get PETG to stick to the blue tape with a 95*C bed and 235*C nozzle, just ran right over it.
  8. As far as I know there are many possibility doing this with more or less complex systems and mor or less reliability... Try searching "joining filament" on google, you will get some ideas. Some people use candles but it is not recomended because you have a hig risk to burn the filament a little to much and it will clog your nozzle... This seem's to be a relatively good alternative for a cheap solution: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Filament-Fuser/
  9. So I know stringing this is a common problem with petg but I am not sure this is stringing. it looks like there are blobs on the side walls. Some of the the begin or end of a string But on the straight is does not make sens that there should be stringing. So my question is, is this stringing or something else and how can i fix this. I have already made a temp tower (245 was optimal). I also made some stringing test where I changed the retraction distance but those came out quit good -temp: 245 retraction distance 5 7.5 & 10mm retraction speed 35mm/s
  10. Mine does too.. has dimples on the font panel that the printers in the photos dont heh🤣 🙄
  11. Im glad you kept the white colour though. It means it can live in my mums kitchen without her being to bothered about it!. Black would be a no no for the kitchen
  12. Lol, i was just bored and felt like offerring a design suggestion/direction for the brand logo...which wasnt asked for btw lol. ...but surely you noticed theres no more robot on the side. My s5 has a robot. The one on the picture doesn't.
  13. Hallo liebe Community , mein UM2+ druckt seit kurzem erst nach einer Anzahl von gewissen Schichten akzeptabel. Egal ob bei PLA oder Nylon. Als Druckparameter werden die standardisierten von UM genommen. Das Eigenartige ist, dass z.B. bei Nylon eine Art Aufbauebene gedruckt wird, auf diese baut er dann das Druckteil --> dieses dünne Volumenteil druckt er schön, danach, wenn das eigentliche Bauteil kommt druckt er schlecht, nach ein paar Schichten dann wieder gut! Foto 1: Ansicht von unten (erste Schichten): Foto 2: Ansicht von oben: Hatt jemand von euch genug Erfahrung um mir da weiterzuhelfen? Wäre extrem dankbar.
  14. We made some visual changes to our brand in the beginning of July, like allowing a different color scheme, using different visual elements, and we changed our logo to a new one which we feel reflects our brand better. No new changes are in the pipeline to what you are used to 🙂
  15. Yes, I said "yes" to the override message on the printer. I will try to add a new ultimaker 2+ to cura as you said. I hope it will work. Thanks a lot 🙂
  16. Would this be acceptable? And the put it in a wate tight tool box (pelican case type)
  17. So the company is changing their logo? Im confussed.
  18. We'll take it into consideration! 😉
  19. You said "yes" to the override message on the display of the printer, right? In case of doubt, it's always a good strategy to first add a new Ultimaker 2+ to Cura and then switch that new one to Marlin. Like this you make sure it starts with default settings that should actually be fine for that printer.
  20. Hello Friends, I was wondering, is it possible to stick few inches of left over PLA filament from old spools to a new fully loaded spool? I dont want to recycle the long pieces of PLA if i can use it effectively. Kind Regards, Siddharth Tilala
  21. Hey, Have problem with building protobuf, doing everything according to Wiki. In attachment I gave errors of building. Best regards, Simon CMakeOutput.log CMakeError.log
  22. I'm torn about the font choice for Ultimaker though. I get the symmetrical U as a logo but the rest? hmm. I kinda prefer the other font it appeared more clean, new one seems just like a basic typed out font from dafont or some free site. Legal issue? whatever. minor quarm. Please change it back, you can leave the U if you like. Eurostile is a fav of mine, lolz.
  23. Yes indeed, "insect antennas". I see this on PET too. Printing slower and cooler helps a bit for me, since there is less pressure build-up in the nozzle, and it leaks less. But I don't know a way to eliminate it.
  24. https://www.youmagine.com/jassicamark/designs
  25. I print PET on clean bare glass. Sometimes I use the "salt method", however this does not increase bonding for PET (contrary to for PLA), but rather reduces it slightly, but it makes it a lot easier to remove parts. To prevent warping, I use no cooling fans, or the absolute minimum. But no fans makes it more difficult to bridge gaps, so this is not suitable for every design. Most of my designs are long flat models without bridges. I tried dilluted white wood glue too a couple of times (ca. 10% glue in water), but this bonded way too strong: it tended to chip the glass while cooling, even before I started pulling the model off. So if you need a strong bond, this should work. :-) But the bed has to be hot enough: 60 or 70°C won't do for me. I need to set it to ca. 80...85°C. The photo below is what the bottom of my PET parts looks like: no corners lifting, and no problems making tiny holes. These are small models (see ruler behing in mm and cm), but it looks the same for my bigger models. Printed with the salt method to facilitate removal: you can see the tiny pits caused by the salt (looks like corrosion pits).
  26. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
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