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  2. Hi, I was wondering if there is a plugin or possible tweak for me to see only the changes between one profile and another. Currently I have a proliferation of settings and I tweak many options using the expert view. However - I prefer to set up some base configs that are common and then modify only a few settings for a different profile. Currently I have to go through the entire list so I was wondering if there is a way to set up a parent profile that has the whole set of settings and then children in which I see only those that I tweaked for that child profile (e.g. PLA Vendor 1 (parent), PLA Vendor 1 - coarse (child 1 - maybe I only tweaked layer height. So all other settings are masked when I view the child so I know the ones I tweaked), PLA Vendor 1 - coarse no support (child 2 layer height+unchecked Generate support), etc) Any pointers on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bimal
  3. That's true, but there are also a lot of other brands which works fine too. I have good experiences with colorFabb, Filamentum, Innofil 3D. Be careful, carbon fiber filament is abrasive and will destroy your nozzle and feeder gears!
  4. Yeah, I just tried drying because that’s what the filament seller recommended. I’ll definitely check the coupler. I’ve replaced it on the UM2+ extended before, so no big deal. The eSun has a lot of good reviews on Amazon but there are a few reviews with similar issues regarding the stringing. I stuck to UM filament only because that’s what the reseller told me. I did end up getting a roll of carbon fiber nylon filament from 3DXTech that worked well. I only mentioned getting the UM filament because it’s normally pretty reliable.
  5. Today
  6. Thank you. No solution for Ryzen, but at least i know it isn't my hardware.
  7. The official website has good instructions: https://octoprint.org/download/
  8. I don't think you have to dry the spool, PLA is not very sensitive to humidity. Check your PTFE coupler, when the part is worn out, it presses on the filament and you normally see underextrusion. But I can well imagine that the retract won't work that well anymore. I don't know the eSun filament, but if it is a good quality filament, I see no reason to buy UM material. You can use any manufacturer. So even in your old company it wouldn't have been necessary to buy UM material because of the warranty.
  9. See https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5265.
  10. Ok probiere mal so, den Rest über Prozentsatzüberlappen kompensieren, wenn Wände und Däher nicht richtig haften. DOM_fixed.3mf
  11. Why does the bottom face need support? What are "normals"? How did they get reversed? I'm new to this stuff...
  12. Hi all, not sure how much experience everyone has here with this material but I’ve been having some issues with it lately. It’s been driving me crazy, I’m close to just buying some Ultimaker PLA or other brand. I recently picked up a used UM2+ after working with a UM2+ Extended at my previous job for a few years. There we used all Ultimaker brand filament to retain the warranty. This used one has a few upgrades on it, like PEI sheet, low friction spool holder, etc. supposedly the PTFE coupler had been replaced before I bought it. But I need to check it still. Anyway, the PLA+ was good at first. Printed well with the regular UM2+ profile. Then about halfway through the roll after a few months it started stringing badly. I did a few atomic pulls nozzle is clean. Then I baked the roll for a few hours to dry it out. Still strings regardless of retraction settings. Went up to 12mm retraction still lots of stringing. I tried lowering the temp from 220 to 210 but then it starts underextruding unless I slow down the speed. Even down to 205 (the min temp recommended by eSun) it still strings. So so I thought maybe it was an issue with that roll and bought a white roll of PLA+. Even right out of a sealed bag with desiccant, it strings with the standard profile. The only way to reduce it somewhat was to enable wipe and z-hop. The grey benchy on the left was when the roll was new. The right is current. The white benchy on the left was right after opening the roll. The right is after enabling wipe and z-hop. I’m going to try drying the white roll to see if that helps. Any other suggestions?
  13. also beim DOM alles gut!! Mit den 2 Schichten meinte ich nur bei den umliegenden Gebäuden...schade dass die 3D Drucker immer so lange brauchen für einen Druck sonst würde ich am liebsten die halbe Stadt drucken... 🙂 Das Modell oben hat die Maße 20x20cm.
  14. Weird situation, I have a new Ryzen 3700x 32gb RAM, x470 motherboard running Windows 10 Ulimate x64. Only about a week. 3 times when printing via USB the computer shut down instantly after about 4-5 minutes. This occurred 3 times in a row. I then removed the USB cable and printed via SD card. No problem I then ran the computer for 70+ hours no issue. So, I'm trying to figure out if this can be a software issue, I can't imagine it is the USB from the printer? Just curious if there are any reports of this. This is not Cura crashing, the whole computer shuts off then restarts. Thanks Robert
  15. FYI it's harder to get a copy of cura 15.X these days so I'm hosting it here (sorry, I only have the windows version): Cura 15.04.06 for windows It doesn't have nearly as many features as the latest cura and doesn't support UM3 or newer printers and it supports dual color printers but not second-extruder-support. But it works very well for 90% of printers out there and in some cases produces better prints (not sure why). I usually use the latest Cura but occasionally still use this old version when printing on my um2go printers.
  16. FYI it's harder to get a copy of cura 15.X these days so I'm hosting it here: Cura 15.04.06 for windows
  17. You do realize that Windows XP is becoming a security risk when connected to the internet since Microsoft is no longer providing security patches?
  18. Indeed they should. Let's hope they treat it with the priority it deserves!
  19. Das Problem mit Luft drucken kenne ich. Dein G-Code ist sauber, konnte da nichts auffälliges finden. Versuche bitte folgendes: Erhitze am Drucker das Hotend auf 170° und schiebe das Filament von Hand aus durch, erhöhe und wiederhole diesen Vorgang steppweise um 10° bis 230°, nach jedem Versuch sollte das Filament durch das Hotend leichter gehen weil das Filament flüssiger wird und nach jedem Versuch das Filament um ca. 1cm zurückziehen. Sollte nach erhöhen der Temparatur das Filament schwieriger durch zu schieben, ist die Verbingung zwischen Hotendschraube und Hotend nicht mehr ok, oder wenn das Filament aus der Düse deutlich kleiner ist als der Düsendurchmesser dann ist die Düse verstopf. In diesem Fall Hotend auseinander und Fehler beseitigen. Sollte alles ok sein dann die Düse auf 200° erhitzen und Lüfter auf 100% einstellen und das Filament am Displaymenü durchlaufen lassen, wenn er das nicht schaffen sollte, ist der Extruder nicht mehr ok.
  20. I'm seeing a particularly frustrating problem on Cura 4.2.1 on Windows 10. When I make changes to an existing profile and then use the "Create profile from current settings" command, my settings are lost. Steps to repro: 1) Choose the Fast 0.2 mm profile 2) Change the Printing Temperature (I choose 205c). 3) Select ""Create profile from current settings/overrides" 4) Name the profile, "Foo" Expected All changed settings are maintained in the print settings panel under the new Foo profile Actual The foo profile changes to what appears to be the Fine profile (layer height is 0.1mm) and all changed settings are lost. This is such a mainstream feature that I have to think my Cura files are corrupted in some way, but I don't know enough about the Cura file structure to know what I should attach here for diagnosis. TIA, Kevin
  21. Hallo zsuammen, ich bin von eurem Modell und den Einstellungen begeistert. Ich habe auch mal ein Foto angehängt wie ich den Dom einbauen werde. Ein Foto mit Licht mache ich soweit ich es habe. habe mir aus China warmweißes LED (2200K) Band bestellt und damit werde ich es beleuchten oder per 5V USB Kabel. Das wäre praktisch denn dann könnte man es an den Computer anschließen und es leuchtet ohne Netzteil... hier schonmal die Fotos mit einem kleinen Städtebaumodell. An einem größeren sitzte ich noch. Die Idee von Gerd das Lichtband den Turm hochzulegen muss ich nochmal prüfen wie/was da geht. Ich habe leider bei den oberen Schichten nur 2 angegeben, das hat wohl nicht gereicht wie man an manchen Flachdächern sieht. Nächstes mal mache ich es mit 5 Schichten.... beste Grüße Euch, Ben
  22. LOL, I think the project that I send to you was 50% fill.. I never do that, I loaded the model and made slice with default values, I always use between 15% and 25%.. And yes, gyroid infill make difference, tanks for the tip, I have adjusted the line width to 0,39 and works fine for me! In future releases they should solve this problem... Best regards and thanks for all...
  23. For information, i solved with the plugin "auto orientation" in the marketplace!
  24. Danke zerspaner_gerd! Aber die Lösung dort war, daß der Dateiname ä/ö/ü enthielt. Auch hab ich bereits gelesen, daß ein Dateiname wie z.B. unteresteildasdairgendwolinksnebendaserstehinmusszweiterversuch5.gcode auch problematisch ist. Meine Datei heißt aber schlicht und einfach a.gcode... Ich Dussel hab im erstel Post das *.stl drangehängt, hier nochmal der gcode. Und ich habe die Datei bereits einmal ohne Probleme drucken können, dann fing er auf einmal an mit der Problematik. Naja, werde mich morgen mal dransetzen, heute hab ich keine Zeit mehr. Sollte mir was gelingen, schreib ichs hier rein. a.gcode
  25. BTW, you can save yourself some time and filament by switching to gyroid infill at a much lower density than what you are currently using. It will still be stupidly strong. I also recommend enabling the optimise wall printing order setting.
  26. Hi, it's definitely a bug in the current Cura. I have taken the liberty of creating an issue (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6215). In the meantime, a workaround that worked for me was to change the top/bottom line width slightly. i.e 3.9 or 4.1 instead of 4.0.
  27. The red is intended to show areas that need support. The fact that the sphere shows red on top means that the normals of that part of the mesh are reversed.
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