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  2. No, never ever 😀 Just a few short hints, tutorials (maybe bed leveling), everything else is too time consuming for me.
  3. So you're working on your YouTube career?
  4. Because I explained it too often within the last days, I made a short video of how to apply glue stick correctly.
  5. So I have been having a problem with the Ultimaker not printing fully on some of the Z layers. I literally have tried everything that I could find info on for Z related problems. I have cleaned the Z lead screw and bearings, I have cleaning out the motor that pulls the filaments, I have tried slowing down the feed rate of extrusion, I have check all belts. I have tried different models and different filaments. I am lost and cannot figure out how to fix this issue. With printing the same model it happens in different Z locations With the picture provided, it will print perfect then all of a sudden not full print out Z layers, then it will go back to printing good and then back to missing Z info. Does anyone have any advice or have dealt with this problem. Thanks Jasper
  6. I think you need to look at where the DLL is located relative to Cura's working directory. Cura's working directory is the user home unless executed from the command line. So it's probably better to just give it a full path. Look into PluginRegistry.getPluginPath to get the absolute path to your plug-in's directory, and combine that with the filename of your DLL. I must say though that I've never worked with loading DLLs using CTypes. My SVGToolpathReader works with a DLL (FreeType) that has Python bindings, so that behaves just like any normal module and I can just import it.
  7. Today
  8. Some printers print fine without calibration, I noticed that my printer could use some calibration... When you are printing on the flexible magnetic buildplate, you better use 60 degrees to get good adhesion. Clean the buildplate with Isopropynol alcohol 70%... Printing temperature is depending on the filament type you are using (I print a lot with a PLA Filament from a Dutch Webshop 123-3D.nl. My ideal temperature for this filament is 210 degrees!) For calibrating X,Y and Z, you can print a calibration cube... You can find many tutorials on calibrating your printer on YouTube, for example on the channel of CHEP!
  9. Hi guys, not sure if this topic is still relevant since it's been a few years but thought I'd mention that I've been working with a custom mouthpiece made of NinjaTek SemiFlex, and it didn't occur to me to check if it was safe before putting it in my mouth til now but I used it for a few days (a few months ago), and it didn't seem to have any effect on me
  10. I import a jpg picture in Cura 4.6.2, but the base and height are interpreted totally wrong. In Version 4.3.0 it was OK - as it was for many years in former versions! Something must have changed between 4.4.1 and 4.5 apparently. Please, repair this bug!
  11. No I did not calibrate, sorry was not aware i needed to. I will search for instructions on how to do this. your print looks great compared to mine. I will attempt the calibration then try reprinting with the settings you tried and see what happens
  12. Hi Did you find the cause to this sound? My UM3 just started making such noise as showed in youtube movie...
  13. If there are errors in the Python code the script will not show up. You have to restart Cura after every change on post-processing scripts. All scripts are only read during the start of Cura. After the start of Cura: take a look at cura.log and search for error messages that are related to your script. It's safe to delete the log file before starting (shorter file -> more clarity) I'm not aware of other ways to debug post-processing scripts.
  14. Hallo, du kannst den Extruder 2 abschalten. In dem Menü zum Extruder, in der oberen Leiste, kannst du den entsprechenden Haken entfernst. Den Support kannst du in den Druckeinstellungen im rechten Menue beeinflußen. Umschalten in die Vorschau würde ich auch mal testen. Also mal damit Spielen. Es ist nicht kompliziert / nur umständlich. Und und ich denke auch, ein paar Screenshots wären wirklich hilfreich. Viel Glück
  15. I almost ran out of filament, so only printed 50% of the object. The problem were the poor result of the printed pegs. Like you can see, this is a good print of the pegs... I did a little search on the WWW, Print Temperature of Inland PLA+ should be 205-225 degrees, so if you print this on a too low temperature you get bad prints! Find out what the best print temperature is for this type of filament on your printer (not every printer is the same, so ideal print temperature may differ a few degrees between Ender 3 pro and another Ender 3 Pro). Did you calibrate extruder, X,Y and Z steppermotors? You will be surprised to see that and Ender 3 Pro needs calibration, you probably print with standard E-steps setting in Firmware!
  16. I have triple checked the printer settings and they are correct. When I look at the software, it shows it the correct size and placement on the plate. When it prints, it is completely different.
  17. You only need to do this for the section that is related to "MOTHERBOARD == 72" Just swap the defined pin numbers for: Y_STEP_PIN <-> E1_STEP_PIN Y_DIR_PIN <-> E1_DIR_PIN Y_ENABLE_PIN <-> E1_ENABLE_PIN Leave Y_STOP_PIN alone. That's all.
  18. I have the same problem! What happened.? Okay, after doing some looking, this started after I did the latest upgrade on the Cura software. It has to be a problem with the software update. I have triple checked the printer settings and they are correct. When I look at the software, it shows it the correct size and placement on the plate. When it prints, it is completely different.
  19. Yes, the sliding blocks and copper bushings get replaced with the belts, they are one assembly. They can be un-assembled, but I wouldn't recommend it. Doesn't look like you're in the US, but here's what the belts should look like for your UM2+ https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/sliding-block-setum2series https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/timing-belt-200-x2
  20. I've just looked up the spare parts available. The belts pack looks like it comes with sliding blocks and copper bushes as well. Do these other parts replacing when the belts are done?
  21. Thanks for the replies. I'll look at the belts and run some test prints to compare the printers. I do get dust on the motors, but that happens when the printers are new as well (although any printer with less than 5000 hours I still consider new!). I certainly haven't noticed loud noises from the belts. Bowden tubes have been replaced, and many other parts as well on a regular basis as required. I think belts are about one of the only things I haven't changed. I tend to agree with the old adage "Don't fix what's not broken", so unless a part actually goes wrong I tend not to change it. Thanks again for the replies everyone.
  22. Just downloaded your 3MF-file... Starting the print with only minor changes on your settings (Buildplate 50 instead of 60 degrees, Printing Temperature 210 instead of 200 degrees and brim instead of skirt for beter printbed adhesion!)... Will show later how the prints looks like! Did you print it in this orientation? With the pegs-side on the heated bed? Not sure it will print that way without support... Will see, printer is running!
  23. I usually recommend belt replacement based on the following criteria: * 3000-4000 print hours * build up of black dust behind the short belts/on top of the motor * visual quality issues (like the above photo) * considerably louder (belts that are past their prime can sound like railroad tracks) Like Gr5 said...I've known UM2/UM2+ machines to run 20k print hours as long as you replace soft wear and tear parts. I'd also add bowden tubes to the list of parts you might want to replace periodically, but odds are, if you aren't seeing issues with yours, it's probably okay. Check the feeder end of the bowden tube for wear and tear; if it's getting bad it will look "chewed up". Occasionally I see wear and tear on the interior of the tube with certain materials.
  24. Calibration is recommended during initial setup. (Although I suspect the Ultimaker already does that at the factory) The automatic algorithms for adjusting the Z-values on an uneven printing plate (for example, only the pythagorean theorem) work more reliably on a reference surface. It is also logical that the fixed XYZ geometry of the printer cannot work on sloping surfaces. The resistance of the table springs must of course fit. That only approximately pure distance values are calibrated. It is important that the table springs are stronger than the print head springs. Otherwise only a convex surface or the resistance of the springs will be measured. Then the measured value is millimetre off by a few millimetres. There is no 0 or 1 sensor. A BLTouch is also inaccurate. This is simply called measured value tolerance. Mathematically, this can be compensated by repeated measurement (avg() ) and fusion of measured values. In other words. The fact that you can work with the Z-Height plug-in proves that the calibration and its sensors work. (If the calibration is successful)
  25. Here is the 3mf file CE3PRO_3_8 Torque Wrench Holder.3mf
  26. I'd say the biggest artifact's that I was noticing was "waving" on the sides of prints that are aligned with the X and Y axis. Say you print a cube that's parallel to the X axis.. if you have any slop or wear on the belts it can cause waving effects on the outside perimeters of the print. Additionally, when printing at small layer heights (<0.1mm) you will notice layers not lining up especially on long straight runs in the X or Y direction. The misalignment is very subtle, but can be felt if you run your finger nail across the part. This isn't a picture of my print, but an example of what you might see. Ultimaker recommends that there should be no more than 20% of the belt tooth missing, if you have a newer machine that doesn't have as many hours maybe you can compare. Not trying to sell you on getting new belts, if its working and you're happy with the prints I wouldn't worry about it. The risk is high if a belt fails so I always try to stay ahead of items like that.
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