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  2. The other thing you can do to help is to lower your flow rate for the first level by 20-30%
  3. Today
  4. I upgraded to 4.0 from 2.7 and now my prints start to far from the build plate. I go back to 2.7 and everything prints fine. Below is my first few lines of gcode: can someone tell me what I need to change to correct the issue. Thanks Works ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:560 ;Filament used: 0.414691m ;Layer height: 0.15 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.7.0 M190 S60 M104 S205 M109 S205 G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 ;LAYER_COUNT:99 ;LAYER:0 M107 M205 X30 Y30 G0 F3600 X140.248 Y103.213 Z0.3 M205 X20 Y20 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1800 X140.916 Y102.339 E0.05488 G1 X141.342 Y101.859 E0.0869 G1 X142.069 Y101.151 E0.13753 G1 X142.547 Y100.748 E0.16872 G1 X143.514 Y100.043 E0.22842 Doesn't work ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:515 ;Filament used: 0.135118m ;Layer height: 0.15 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.0.0 M140 S60 M105 M190 S60 M104 S205 M105 M109 S205 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:100 ;LAYER:0 M107 M205 X30 Y30 G0 F3600 X140.52 Y102.838 Z0.3 M205 X20 Y20 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 G1 F1800 X141.497 Y101.702 E0.02818 G1 X141.946 Y101.251 E0.04016
  5. Well I'm definitely interested. Email me at pringlekeara@gmail.com.
  6. Bought an UM3 couple months ago, and the transition from higher-end hobby printers to a printer I trust ... just amazing. Earlier this week a print with colofabb nGen went wrong long enough to goop up both print heads some nGen and require me to remove them and clean them off. When I put them back, the bed was out of level and autolevel wasn't helping, so I did the manual level and tried to do the XY calibration but either the print head would be pressed so tightly against the bed that nothing came out or it just wouldn't stick. Using the original UM green, did a cura connect reset, wiped me cura profiles, no help. So I turned all of the levelling knobs a 1/4-1/8th counter-clockwise and now I get prints but the first layer is bumpy and I get elephant's foot and curling. I'm wondering if the honeymoon period is over now, and if from here on it will only ever print as well as lower-end/hobby printers I'd had before, or if there is a guide to restoring that factory fresh reliability?
  7. Thanks 🙂 I guess it is on its way 😜 If you can send me your email address then I will get you early access and you don't need to pay for it 😉
  8. I just threw all my money at the screen, did any of it arrive? 🙂
  9. I've never found any way to get gradual support to build viable support, it never graduates between the original "lazy" support and the next layer up: Might produce something like this: I expected that the individual lines of support would be further apart, but instead it just seemed to produce half the support, leaving a whole half of each subsequent tier floating in thin air: (Yes, I've tried different patterns, concentric is where it is easiest to see when you are controlling the camera view) Anyway, this suggests to me I'm doing it wrong?
  10. Am I missing something or is there a circular mask on the print bed in this software? This severely restricts the area I can print on. Is this intentional? How do I disable? 3.6.0 did not have this limitation.
  11. Hi All, This is Baha Abunojaim CTO of Mixed Dimensions, the company behind MakePrintable. We are currently in the process of finalizing a new plugin aiming at enhancing Cura with features that will ensure print-ability and reduce the time and cost associated with a print, these are the features planned for the next release: Unlimited local repair of 3D files. Optimal orientation to reduce support and print time. 3D packing. Hollowing. We are planning to introduce also the ability to create advanced workflows from nodes directly from within Cura but I also want to reach out to you and hear directly from the community on what features and enhancements you feel critical to making your life easier and more productive. If anyone interested to beta test the plugin then please let me know.
  12. UM3 bed got out of level and I wound up making settings tweaks that didn't help, and now I'm trying to back them out, but as I scrutinize how the build gets printed, some of it is counter to my *novice* intuition. If you watch the first layer, it starts laying down the wall around the "window" panels and the speeds are kinda weird: then it makes an odd choice about where to start the next panel, resulting in a bunch of extra travel that could have been eliminated if it started at a different point: the order in which it does these next pieces is a bit puzzling too - in that it works left, bottom middle, right, center, top right, left, for all of which it only does half the lines. Then it does the outer perimeter in full before going back and finishing the window-walls; then it fills the rest of the face: and even then, it goes back around and puts more lines directly around each wall. The other issue I'm having is that there are weird patterns on the bottom surface because of the way it tries to fill the base resulting in a surface that (in a kind of cool way) has a panelized look, like an 80s starship surface heh. And whether I use lines or zigzags, the way in which seams form between the contiguously printed panels and resulting travel significantly affects the smoothness and rigidness of the bottom surface: the marked lines show up as clear seams/distinctive "panels" on the bottom surface: Is this where perhaps I should be using concentric? I gave that a shot and it had the same outlining wastage and then it did this: It seems a lot like Cura could have made things easier on itself if it had realized that it's dealing with a round/symmetric design? The resulting seams are actually kinda neat: But they still somewhat marr the finished surface which - went it adheres properly - is a beautifully flat, smooth surface. I've attached the print and the settings I'm using, I'd love any input on what I'm doing wrong and how I can produce a better print? -Oliver Insert image from URL spool.3mf spool.curaprofile
  13. Hello, I apologize ahead of time if this is not the proper place to post. I am new to 3D printing and Cura. I have an Ender 3 Pro and am looking a place to find guidelines and general settings for my machine to input into Cura. I know this is a loaded question with many factors to consider. Aside from the general info (bed size, nozzle etc.) what settings are generally considered best? Is there any other resource available? With the popularity of the Ender series printers, I'm a bit surprised there was not more to find. Thank you for any assistance. I searched the forum for "Ender 3 print settings" and found nothing. I will admit the format for this forum is not familiar, but I assumed my search criteria should have had some hits.
  14. Yesterday
  15. I've been using Cura 3.6.0 with Octoprint and a Tevo Black Widow for a while now. I spent a lot of time upgrading the printer and fine tuning nearly everything over a long period of time. Eventually I achieved near perfect results under nearly all circumstances. My rig is so reliable and versatile that I can't remember the last time I changed anything either hardware or firmware. However, three days ago without warning, the print quality became horrible. It looked like massive over extrusion, but to an extent that was so severe, that I suspected something else must be defective. The print nozzle was plowing through the print to a degree I've never seen before. My first guess was a Z axis fault. I checked the obvious mechanical things like set screws, belt tension, etc. I re-calibrated my Z axis and calibrated the Extruder as well........ all OK. Thinking it might be a driver, I did some driver swapping between a spare, the extruder, the Z axis and the Y axis with no change to the problem. I experimented with some settings and discovered that I could make a good test print if I dialed the filament flow down to 50%. What's up with that? It made no sense. I started thinking how could my printer suddenly double the feed rate without warning and without having changed anything. The fact that my extruder calibration was perfect added to the confusion. A year ago I had what I thought was a driver overheating problem which, after a LOT of fiddling around, turned out to be a defective main board, so I ordered a new board and a fresh set of drivers just to be on the safe side. I'd rather spend 50 bucks than spend another full day pulling my hair out chasing a mystery. While waiting for the parts I re flashed the Marlin firmware............ no joy. A few hours ago I upgraded to Cura 4.0 and now the printer is behaving perfectly, just like it used to do. I'm partly happy, but not completely thrilled because I hate it when things go wrong without explanation and I also don't like it when the repair doesn't make sense. I'm not sure Cura was at fault, but upgrading did in fact fix my problem. How could the older version of Cura suddenly double the extrusion speed? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? S
  16. Geschwindigkeit und Temp passen soweit, da ist nichts dramatisches dabei. Ich vermute, dass die Düse trotz deiner ersten Reinigung verstopft war. Wenn die Feederspannung ein bisschen aus der Mitte war, dann wirkt sich das nicht so extrem aus. Dran bleiben und beobachten 🙂
  17. Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  18. Here’s a picture of the printer, print cores, and filament. The display looks a little weird because of the camera. The rolls on the right are PLA. The black roll is CPE and the white roll is the break away filament. All have been kept in dry boxes. The 3 extra cores I have are on the bed of the printer. The printer has been used < 100 hours and is in great condition (no blemishes etc) and prints great. I don’t have enough time anymore to do 3D printing and would be keeping it otherwise. Let me know if you need anymore pictures or information.
  19. Yes I am using Windows 10. Disabling Firewall did not solve the issue.
  20. Hi Smithy, vorab vielen Dank für deine Hilfe. Ich habe das Teil heute noch mal gedruckt ( mit den gleichen einstellungen wie gestern Abend) und da hat es geklappt. Habe heute noch mal alles kontrolliert: Düse noch mal gereinigt Das Filamt lässt sich gut durch den Bowden Tube schieben Feeder Spannung stand etwas über der Mitte habe ich korrigiert. Anbei mal meine Druck Parameter Geschwindikeit / Temp. Drucke mit PLA von Innofill Gruß Mike
  21. I'm guessing that you are using Windows and have a firewall operating. Try disabling it?
  22. Thanks for the quick response! We're trying to print at about 134 C maximum, and will need to print at lower temperatures. I believe it may actually be this cold extrusion prevention. I had seen it on a forum elsewhere, but was unable to find how to fix it. Thanks! I'll post about if I'm able to get it to work!
  23. What's the printing temperature? There's a firmware feature called "cold extrusion prevention" with a minimum temperature of 170°C per default, but it can be changed with a gcode command, see: or...: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes
  24. It could very well be that old. I am planning to update this printer, but have not bothered until now because "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I will try that. DLC
  25. Hi y'all, I could use some help. For an engineering project at my university, we had been tasked with creating an attachment for and modifying an Ultimaker 2 to allow for the heated mechanical extrusion of a bioscaffold material. We were able to figure out the necessary modifications for the heating and attachment, but we're having a bit of difficulty with the extrusion itself. The printer would no longer be used to print filament, so we decided to retask the stepper motor in the rear meant for the feeder to take on the role of our drive shaft within our mechanical syringe compression tool. After rewiring and moving the motor we were able to confirm it runs through using the Maintenance-> Advanced-> Move Material setting, but it just won't move during a print. We've tried adjusting the Current E, the material flow, and doing a factory reset. Would anyone be able to provide some insight into why it won't turn during a print but will during the Move Material adjustment and how we might be able to fix it? Any suggestions would be immensely helpful! Thanks!
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