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  2. Access control is currently not possible, but UM is aware of it and is working on a solution.
  3. Hello, I have two Ultimaker 3 printers in use in a lab at my university. Recently, students who have not had training to use the printers have been trying to print for their projects, causing serious damage on several occasions. We cannot restrict physical access to the room and I cannot supervise the printers all day, every day. If we block off the USB ports, Is there any way of controlling who has access to the printers via the network? If not, how do other people control access to their printers in these sort of environments?
  4. It's literally default 0.3mm but with 60 mm/s retraction speed. CFFFP_Pi_Camera_2020_Adapter.3mf
  5. Welcome @Stratos, it's hard to give you an answer without seeing your settings so please save the project (File -> Save) and attach the resulting .3mf file to this thread. Thanks.
  6. Ghene, How did you sort this out?
  7. Hi i now this thread is old but as a solidworks user i have found the same issue and i also by accident found that solidedge does allow you to import a STL file and convert it to a step. the step file then was easy to modify in solidworks. hope that can help.
  8. Hi i had the same issue solid works. but solid edge does allow you import a stl file and convert it to step.
  9. Today
  10. Hey guys, hope you are all doing well. "First" time Ultimaker Cura user here. It is way simpler than what I was used (repetier host), but the default settings turned out way better than my heavily edited slic3r from repetier prints. But I came across 2 problems (I have to test one to make sure). So the one I would like to get rid of now is this. Changing the retraction speed has no effect on the actual retraction. It is still the same speed no matter if it is 40mm/s or 120mm/s, it is always slow compared to slic3r (where I had 60mm/s). So, how do I "repair" it? How can I make it retract faster (because now it kinda waits for it to retract)? Thanks in advance 😉. P.S.: I guess that I am using the latest Cura as I downloaded it on Saturday.
  11. I am happy with every solution, even if I have to rewrite from hand to daily like now...
  12. Yes, would save them in the settings storage and recover them on each load of a file. Within a settings window in the menu, they could get changed or reset. Think that might be something interesting for all commandline-based plugins (Blender and OpenSCAD), too.
  13. Would it not be easier to query the two or three options and execute them accordingly?
  14. Haha, no problem. I think I need to think about adding a window for overwriting the path to the executable and overwriting the executable name 😅
  15. That's it! I changed the "FreeCADcmd" to "FreeCADcmd-Daily" and now it works perfect! Thank you so much for your plugin and your support!!!
  16. Could be. I'm using the stable PPA. Does an "freecadcmd-daily" exist, too? The plugin is using the freecadcmd command line application to do the conversion from FCstd to STL automatically. If another name is used, then it won't be recognized.
  17. Hello. I've got the project of modify my printer (homemade with Duet wifi board) to an IDEX system. Your script is for what version of Cura ? Cura 3.x, 4.0, or BCN3D Cura. Sorry for my english I'm french.
  18. Heat the nozzle using the 'set temperature' setting. This will melt the material close to the head and soften the other material making it easier to get out with needle-nose pliers. You may have to also hit it with a heat gun too. This happened to me until I found out how to really get the print to stick to the buildplate. If the model cuts loose it will get dragged around creating a plug against the nozzle leaving the new material nowhere to go but up into the printhead.
  19. hmmm ... either my faith in my ability was too strong, or it is not because of the missing path... Can the reason be that the daili builds is started not with the command "freecad" but with "freecad-daily"???
  20. @UbuntuBirdy Personally, I prefer the second answer (modifying .bashrc): https://askubuntu.com/questions/60218/how-to-add-a-directory-to-the-path PS: The new version is on its way:
  21. I am using the FreeCAD PPA, but the daily builds... Well, I believe it would not be too difficult to add the binary directory, if I would know where to find the $PATH environment variable...
  22. From my intern days at Ultimaker, I know that the general material properties must be there if I don't remember wrong what I saw in the firmware. I have no explanation of why the wrong temperature is applied during this procedure. I feel sorry to hear this ☹️
  23. Well, if it is not too difficult for you, then add the binary directory of your installation to the $PATH environment variable. Or (as I do) upgrade FreeCAD using the FreeCAD PPA. Currently, they deliver version 0.18.0 in it.
  24. Hmm, so there could be two ways of importing something into Cura, right? Once by using an active object, as I do now, or by looking for visible bodies. I guess the method with the visible bodies could get interesting when printing with multiple extruders.
  25. #3 could be split into: 1) gantry is bent 2) frame is bent causing gantry to be bent 3) plate is not perpendicular to vertical rods 4) vertical rods are not perpendicular to frame So our friend neotko had an issue he called "banana". One might call it "saddle". Where you can get any 3 points of the print bed level but to get 4 points level you can't because the bed is shaped somewhat like a sadle or potato chip. We'll call that "banana" here. The most common cause for severe banana is shipping - DHL and other's seem to manage to put an immense amount of weight onto opposite corners of the printer such that it is no longer a cube but trapezoidal. A bent frame will give you a banana gantry. I'd check that first. Does the printer sit flat on a table? Or does it rock? If the frame has banana then you need to loosen a lot of the frame screws and push it back into position and retighten. On extremely rare occasions back in the UMO days there were some "bad" frames where the wood shifted during cutting. Now all frames go through quality control. It's possible to order just one side of the frame. The base plate that you show as bent shouldn't matter as it connects to the heated bed through 3 points. You can't transfer "banana" through 3 points. You can just adjust the 3 screws to make the bed "level" with the gantry. The glass that comes with many UM2's (and even worse I think with UM3's) tends to be thicker in the center. But by only 1mm at the most and the amount of force to bend it flat is very small. Maybe an ounce. When I saw some banana in my glass - I "fixed" it by bending the rear 2 corners of the heated bed upwards firmly until a metal straight edge (a ruler) showed it to be level. Only after I was done did I realize that I could have damaged my heated bed - I had forgotten that the other side was a PCB heater. But it worked really well for me on my UM3. You can probably get a flatter glass from fbrc8.com. Measure the error very carefully and ask fbrc8 if you can do better with one of their glass beds for UM2. The process for making tempered glass makes it thicker in the center. You could buy ordinary window glass from your local glass place (any town that has buildings with windows has lots of glass places). You'd be amazed how cheaply you can get a piece of glass of the correct thickness and dimensions and ground smooth to remove sharp edges (probably $10). The only problem with non-tempered glass is that if it breaks the pieces are very sharp - tempered glass is designed to shatter into thousands of pieces if it breaks and it's not as dangerous.
  26. Thanks! I set „Max comb distance with no retract“ to something different than zero and it works! 🙂
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