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  2. You find it here: ~/Library/Application Support/cura/4.3 When you delete the whole 4.3 directory or everything lower than this number, you will start with a fresh copy. You can also try to just rename the latest (4.3) folder to something else and delete the previous versions.
  3. The "Select Face to Align" feature requires a computer & GPU with at least OpenGL 4.1. If the system does not support OpenGL 4.1, the button for the feature will not show up. No amount of reinstalling will change that.
  4. Unfortunately, that list does not seem to be up to date.
  5. Cura Configuration Folder ? Wher is this situated!
  6. Today
  7. Cura 4.3 runs fine for me on Catalina, so it must be something with your installation. You can try to delete your Cura configuration folder, that you can start over with a fresh installation. But be aware that you will loose all your settings.
  8. Hi all, this weekend i updated to OSX Catalina 10.15 on my MAC. But know Cura 4.3 stays in a white blank screen and a rotaiting rainbow circle. How could I get CUra run again. I often use it because it is much better then simplify 3d. Help is realy wanted. Kind regards Willi
  9. Hello everyone! It's been another year, I've finally managed to get the designs finalized and printed, the fans ordered, and everything installed (among a slew of other printer upgrades). A problem I've run into is that, somehow, I blew the blowers within maybe 5 minutes of running them... I've tested the power coming out of the board, and that is working fine. It will drive any other fan. So the problem must be with the blowers. My theory right now is that the fans act as inductors when they're turned off, which causes a back current. What bothers me is that, to the best of my knowledge, the main board should also already be protected (after all, we don't put flyback diodes on any other fans). The fans I ordered ended up being the F00 variation of the blowers, with the built-in tachometers, as that was the only one on Mouser that could be ordered in low quantities (the non-tachometer version used in the Ultimaker can only be ordered in bulk). Perhaps the way the tachometer is internally wired requires it to be separately protected? I'm not sure how that would work, but it's the best bet I have right now. I think I've run into the bounds of my limited electronics knowledge, so if someone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance! Best, nerdwarrior
  10. Hi, I've had my printer for about a 2 months now (Ender 3). Oh yes, I know this is an ultimaker form but I sadly can't afford one. I do use cura so I decided to post here. Anyway I've had issues with these odd z layer lines on my prints they always occur at the same place. Image: https://imgur.com/a/EHHjSNB Things I've done so far: 1. I checked to see if my 8mm threaded z axis rod was bent. I sat it on a table and it was every so slightly bent, maybe .07 mm of bend. I find it hard to believe that that could actually cause my issue. 2. I've checked the alignment of my z stepper with the cuppler and rod. No issues there they rod slides in and out with ease when screws are loosened. 3. I checked the alignment of my frame on my machine. Everything is square within .1 of a mm. All screws are tight too. 4. I checked the belts on the x and y axis of the printer. Both are very tight and make a medium pitch sound when plucked like a guitar. 5. I checked my rollers and all rollers are tight but not too tight. I can still manually spin them with my hands. 6. I've checked the tension on the z 8mm threaded rod, the screws are snug but not all the way tightened down. 7. I've tried printing with heat off incase my of any bed heating issues, very minimul improvement. Other info: My z 8mm threaded rod is free floating and does not have a bearing at the top. My only other mods I did was add a bltouch and a 5015 petsfang. I print on glass at 210 degrees for pla. Going back to the z 8mm threaded rod as an ending note here. If I disconnect the z stepper cable and push the x carriage down really fast, I do notice that the top of the z rod wobbles just a little bit. I think I've tried everything here, that's why I'm posting. Could that .07 mm bend in my z rod actually cause the issue I'm seeing. Is that slight wobble actually my issue. If so where could I buy a rod that would be 100% straight unlike the one I have? If I forgot anything please let me know also sorry for any typos or errors. Thanks .
  11. Yesterday
  12. I really hope you got an answer years ago, but if not - i found this link recently (for you, and others still looking for this answer): https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20510-support-3rd-party-printers
  13. aahahhahaa I agree with you, 1 waste of money in my life 🙂 I sent the company an e-mail. No one has written an answer yet. The product is very new but I can not use it at all. hope i can find a solution. if i solve the problem i will share. please wish me luck 🙂
  14. I haven't printed with PETG but I think it's similar to NEXT GEN. I use UHU glue and a Brim and make spharp corners on the base base round where possible.
  15. Thank you. Got any advice for making PETG stick to the bed? It's driving me nuts when it gets partway through the print and then starts sliding around. On a seperate note, your idea may just be the key, I tried printing a partial object with the full solid piece like it was on the original and it couldn't quite flex far enough without snapping, so now I'm printing one with your idea. One of which just came off the bed so now it's round 2.
  16. So I appear to have fixed it, though I had to go and delete all files found in the AppData Local and Roaming folders that were connected with Cura. I did a fresh install and it is launching again. I saved these files into a different space so I can go back to them. Seems to indicate that there is some form of corruption happening with the data in these files, though it is interesting as it appears to happen across all versions that are loaded side by side. Seeing as how all files seem to be segregated by user versions, except for some log files, I wonder if there was an error in log files that end up getting corrupted and causing the hang? Adam Edit: Found that there is also a set of files in the Master Area that may also contain shared files between the different versions. It could have been one of those files as well. I did not fully debug it to see. I have already spent too many hours just getting to this point, I will let the Devs take it from here to see what is going on.
  17. Those are (mostly) not “stringing”, but antennae. Caused by totally different things. Those offshoots are caused by a drop of ooze building up during the move between the columns. When the nozzle gets to the next section, the drop hits the old layer and deposits there. When it comes to that spot again next layer, the drop deposits on the previous blob. Hence the outward and upward growth of the antenna. Stringing is where the material does not leave the prior part cleanly, and a thin string connects between two sections. You see some of those between the part and antennae. Try fine tuning retraction. Too much can be as bad as too little since you don’t want to suck air up into the melt reservoir.
  18. Great work Oliveros. Thanks for the updates.
  19. In actual prints they become so much that they require an eternity to remove and sometimes they ruin the details. ;(
  20. Owen, Your idea was great, it lead me onto the right path, after making one of those shapes, I decided to print it standing up to avoid having to brace the sections and it turns out PETG is WAY more flexible when printed across and not lengthwise, like day and night difference. So I tried 3 or 4 different versions of your idea and they are almost too flexible to work, I don't know if they'll stay on the rail but I'm still experimenting.
  21. Hey Guys, I've been running into an issue on and off with my 3D printer, I've had it for a couple of days and been printing pretty much non stop. I left something to print overnight and it went sideways really fast, checked on it in the morning and the objects were all knocked off the platform and the nozzle was covered in plastic, a mess. So I've been doing Monoprice's PETG, printing at 230*C with a bed temp of 80*C and putting glue down on the brownish kapton (I think it is, came on the glass), I'm using a brim as well. I did it like that for a bit and it would print fine sometimes, not at other times. I then tried to clean the plate and I noticed the glue got very tacky again and tried printing again where I wipe it with water right before it prints and it seems to work okay, then sometimes in the middle of the print, the object get's pulled or somehow loosens off the glass and it's all over from there. It seems like it's OK sometimes and sometimes not, I've just been going by experience at this point and I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do with a glass bed but it seemed to work so I just kept doing the same thing. So what should I do?
  22. This could be easily checked by observing the z-axis when printing the first layer: if there is a ticking sound and motion of the z-axis when printing the first layer (or first layers), especially in y-direction, then auto level correction is active. As I see you have checked everything and made no mistake when levelling. Unfortunately, I'm now at my wits' end :-( Regards
  23. Probably this is a very silly question, but I can't find the answer. I own an UMO+, and I'm having some difficulties using the Tune option on the controller. What units are the parameters in? These are my assumptions: Speed: mm/s or [% of setting on SD card]? Nozzle: Ok, this one I get.. Celsius Bed: Celsius Fan speed: ??? Flow: ??? Thanks!
  24. I'm not totally sure about this. I'm wondering if it's not an auto level correction fault or something.
  25. I don't see anything wrong with the axles. All 4 sliding blocks are fit perfectly on the axles. I tried pushing on them but it's not moving so to me it looks like it's perfectly fine.
  26. In my experience stringing increases with higher temperature and with better quality material it decreases. But hey, do not make life harder than it needs to be: these strings are so easy to break away, so just ignore this effect!
  27. When doing manual leveling I always make sure to not touch anything at all (except the calibration card ONLY) and I'm positive that the friction between the nozzle and the bed feels the same at all 3 points before I hit the "confirm" button. So I don't think I'm doing this the wrong way. I'll check the axles in the sliding blocks in a couple minutes when I get back home and report back.
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