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  2. First things first make sure you are not trying to heat up both the build plate and your hot end at the same time to start a print. Most printers don’t have the power for that and that’s why they heat up the build plate first and then the hot end before the print starts. That way less power is used at once.
  3. https://www.youmagine.com/aussecure/designs https://www.youmagine.com/aurorastone/designs
  4. Today
  5. I've discovered it's really useful for what I'm doing in helping maintain consistent prints for really small pieces. I hate using it for the wasted PLA, but it's saved me several botched prints. I had generally good luck with a PEI surface, but once I tried to do multiple pieces, it got inconsistent, which is why I've started using it here.
  6. Note that raft is an old technology - not used much these last 7 years or so. It was used back in the day before PLA became popular and before heated beds when we just had ABS filament only. It was the only way to get parts to stick to a cold bed. Now with heated beds, and ABS glue stick and PVA glues and so on, it's just not the preferred method. It gives an ugly bottom to the print when you remove it. And I suspect the makers of Cura have never used it for it's original intention so probably didn't make it very flexible (which is what you need so the part can shrink without separating from blue tape or whatever type of bed you have.
  7. there's a parameter called "build plate adhesion type". Set that to "raft" and then all the raft settings will be accessible.
  8. I spent quite a bit of time and money on this problem. After trying about 20 different glues and combinations of primers I found a product that did an outstanding job of bonding NF to another form of rubber similar to that of tyres with no sanding or other surface prep needed. This product may also work as a primer for NF to work with another glue if it doesn't bond directly to the material you wish to bond to. In New Zealand it is available as Loctite 401. I hope this helps :)
  9. I have an STL file (a simple clevis pin) I created using FreeCAD. It loaded in Cura 4.6.1 and I was able to print it out. I made some adjustments in and exported the design again and now I get this error: I opened the CURA.log file and find the following: 2020-07-06 21:56:30,774 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [106]: Exception: Exception occurred while loading file D:/Clevis 6_25mm.stl 2020-07-06 21:56:30,779 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: Traceback (most recent call last): 2020-07-06 21:56:30,783 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "X:\4.6-exe\build\inst\lib\python3.5\site-packages\UM\FileHandler\ReadFileJob.py", line 66, in run 2020-07-06 21:56:30,787 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "X:\4.6-exe\build\inst\lib\python3.5\site-packages\UM\Mesh\MeshFileHandler.py", line 36, in readerRead 2020-07-06 21:56:30,791 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "X:\4.6-exe\build\inst\lib\python3.5\site-packages\UM\Mesh\MeshReader.py", line 21, in read 2020-07-06 21:56:30,796 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.6\plugins\FileHandlers\STLReader\STLReader.py", line 89, in _read 2020-07-06 21:56:30,800 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: if numpy.amin(verts[:, 1]) == numpy.amax(verts[:, 1]): 2020-07-06 21:56:30,804 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "numpy\core\fromnumeric.py", line 2442, in amin 2020-07-06 21:56:30,808 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: File "numpy\core\fromnumeric.py", line 83, in _wrapreduction 2020-07-06 21:56:30,812 - ERROR - [Thread-3] UM.Logger.logException [110]: ValueError: zero-size array to reduction operation minimum which has no identity 2020-07-06 21:56:30,819 - DEBUG - [Thread-3] UM.FileHandler.ReadFileJob.run [71]: Loading file took 0.1 seconds
  10. Hi, Just wondering if anyone can help me. For a year now I have successfully printed thin walls for my cutters using the Prusa slicer with my Anycubic i3 Mega. I recently purchased an Ultimaker S5 and have not been able to produce, clean, strong, thin walls for my cutters (as in picture) since. I'm sure the S5 can do it but so far I have had no success. Can anyone help me with this or help me to configure Prusa to use with the S5. I have seen on many forums that Cura is not good for thin walls. I typically need the cutting wall between .46mm and .49mm in width. I use plain PLA. Thanks in anticipation for your help. Desperate, Stephen.
  11. I'm trying to figure out how to change the setting for the raft width in Ultimaker Cura. I can figure out how to make the setting visible, but I have no idea where I can actually see it and change it's value...
  12. Once a bowden has slipped out once or twice you really need to cut a few mm off the end so it has a fresh spot of bowden to grip with the blades.
  13. Oops. Somehow I missed this part. Can you take the collet out and send a photograph of the blades in the collet? There are 4 blades - like razor blades. Curved to the shape of the bowden. So when reinstalling a collet it is good to push down on the tube and the collet. Then while still pushing down on the bowden tube with one hand, lift the collet with the other. Then lift the tube and it should hold the collet up. While the collet is up, slide the clip under. I have to tell you that I've never had this problem (bowden slipping out a lot). Well I had it a few times on my UMO but not the later machines that I own (UM2, UM3, S5).
  14. Saludos cordiales a todos. Hace unos días intenté varias veces imprimir un modelo descargado desde Thingiverse (un E.V.A. 01 de Evangelion) y una de las partes se imprimía con un error, como si lo hubieran cortado con un cuchillo, aunque lo intentara imprimir rotándolo en varias posiciones antes de segmentarlo, siempre salía igual. Esto usando CURA 4.6.0 Solucioné el problema abriendo el archivo STL en el programa Blender para modelado 3D y guardándolo con otro nombre de archivo, sin modificar el objeto ni nada y segmentándolo en CURA como siempre. Esto me puso a pensar si el archivo STL original tendría algún error "invisible" para CURA y aunque en el segmentado todo se veía correctamente el error iba de alguna manera en el archivo GCODE y por eso siempre se imprimía mal. ¿Es esto posible? ¿alguien ha tenido un error similar? Aquí dejo una reseña detallando el problema, con varias fotos y como tuve que "arreglar" el problema, a parte de tener que cortar en dos partes el mismo segmento con errores pero ahora para evitar problemas con los soportes: https://masdeseables.com/imprimiendo-un-eva-de-evangelion-en-la-ender3-estandar/
  15. Thanks for the info. Now when I try to run the nozzle and the bed together the machine shuts off. The power supply won't handle both. I need a controller to run the bed heater independently from the printer. Got any Ideas? I've attached a pic of the heater.
  16. I've got another rookie question. I bought a bed heater for my printer. I've got it all installed on my xvico. It works, but if I try to run the nozzle heater and the bed at the same time the machine shuts off. either one will run by themselves. It seems that the Chinese power supply isn't strong enough to run both. So, I would like to run the bed heater independently from the printer. I need a controller with a way to set the temp. This thing is 24 volts. I'm attaching a pic of the plate. Can anyone help an old man to find what I need.
  17. Yesterday
  18. Hi Allrounder, es hat natürlich funktioniert 🙂 , danke für die Hilfe Gruß trainmen
  19. Hi samc99us, Ok., Lets figure out a little here. First, Cura's coordinate system system has the the center at the midpoint of the heat bed of your printer! As the position of X and Y can be set for the Z seam, h is at first level when we place the seam. According to your printer, a Creality Ender 3, I've also found that your printer bed is; X=235 mm and Y=235 mm. So the max span for your object to use is; X=±117.5 mm and Y=±117.5 mm In the project file you got from burtoogle, he selected X=117.5 mm and Y= 0 mm, this will place the seam 90 deg. to the right whatever size your object have. This position will also be a "straight" seam starting at this position. This is actually vise selection. You can choose any combination you like to cover 360 deg. around your print, the selection of the value of X and Y create the direction to where the seam should be. (Remember they can be positive or negative.) Edit: Always use the max length that's go to the edge of the bed (the white area of the bed in Cura), as this will cover any object size. As far as I know there is no coordinate "view" for X,Y and Z in mm that's exist in Cura. Well, I've made a little picture of Cura 4.6.1 just for clarification. Well this is all I can do.. Regards Torgeir
  20. Oeillet métallique de 3 ou 4 mm, et hop...
  21. You either have a stripped tube or worn collet. You can trim a few mm’s of the tube for now. This could also be a good time to replace it and pickup a new collet. It’s a yearly suggested replacement per the maintenance schedule. The tube, not the collet.
  22. Den Wert unter "Brückeneinstellungen aktivieren" unter "Mindestlänge Brückenwand" solange erhöhen bis es "normal" wird, bei 100 sollte es "normal" sein. PS: warum ist bei dir trotz brückenaktivieren die Füllungslinien immer noch längst?
  23. Oh! I see you have an UM3. How old is it?
  24. What kind of printer do you have? I saw something recently... I'll go look it up. I think it applied to certain Ultimaker printers?
  25. It took me a while to figure out what a backing tray was. The ice cube tray mention actually somehow helped. I fixed your spelling above. 2) I've never tried this but I'd consider something more flexible like TPLA (tough PLA) or anything to the left of PLA and ABS in this diagram. Maybe even TPU or "ninjatech cheetah" (which I think is TPU): http://gr5.org/mat/ I'm not sure how brittle ABS, PLA, etc get at freezing temperatures. Maybe someone else knows. 1) Pretty much there aren't any materials like this. I mean PEEK can do baking trays but it's very expensive and no Ultimaker printer can print it without pretty much replacing or relocating most of the parts (servos need to be outside the printer, enclosed printer, heated bed needs to have another 200W heater added, print head needs to be higher temp, firmware needs changing). HOWEVER, I recommend making a mold out of PLA and pouring silicone into the mold. Silicone comes in 2 part mixtures - look on amazon, ebay or other places. Check how hot the silicone can withstand. For example they talk about "tin" silicone which is designed for molten tin (450F - hotter than most baking). Look around for temperature limits for various silicone mixtures. Many baking products are made out of soft silicone. Like muffin trays. Silicone mold making is a very rewarding experience I have found! Also once you make a single mold you can make many baking sheets and sell them on etsy if you want. They can be custom shapes like if you want to make minion baking trays to create minion shaped cup cakes! Yay for minions! For first try it's not a big deal but if you wan't professional quality molds with no air bubble defects, you need to buy a vacuum chamber and put the silicone mixture in that to remove all the gasses before pouring into your PLA mold. There are TONS of videos about working with 2 part silicone. Check out these 2 videos:
  26. I am working on a structural component for which support structure should be used for creating the part. I am printing with PVA as my support. Reviewing the Cura slice I see numerous instances where the support material would be printed in space, trying to turn to match the part profile. Are there support options that force the material to bridge to the next available grid/triangle/line segment to ensure the following layer will be printed appropriately? Thanks in advance.
  27. Can someone advise on a possible ‘fix’ for these printing faults on this ‘Benchy’ please ? I’ve tried different settings but can’t seem to sort this out. On the side of the cabin.
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