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  1. Today
  2. I'm working with FreeCAD-dailybuilds. Is there another possibility to get working the plugin than installing the stable version of FreeCAD?
  3. There is a way to print in the order you want and its pretty simple in cura. All you have to do place the items closest to the "scan line" and it will print in that order. Let me explain: Cura basically "scans" your bed from left to right. Whenever the "scan line" touches an object it gets recorded to be printed 1st. To print the second object just move it 0.1 mm to the right from the first object and it will get printed second no matter where on the bed it is.
  4. There is a way to print in the order you want and its pretty simple in cura. All you have to do place the items closest to the "scan line" and it will print in that order. Let me explain: Cura basically "scans" your bed from left to right. Whenever the "scan line" touches an object it gets recorded to be printed 1st. To print the second object just move it 0.1 mm to the right from the first object and it will get printed second no matter where on the bed it is.
  5. Gotta love Ultimaker. I easily made the adjustment. Here is a video of the one I am selling before and after adjustment. Totally easy just as this video from the North America Ultimaker Help Desk says it should be:
  6. Hi not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but... Ive drawn an object in Fusion 360, sent it to Cura 4.0 (they dont talk like 3.2.1 used to) The slice resulted in some important features of the build missing altogether??? How does that happen? Fusion shows the object as I drew it, the sliced version has missing parts Cgeers n
  7. Bonjour à tous, Donc voilà, je comprends pas pourquoi quand j'ouvre un fichier pris sur Thingiverse, l'objet devient énorme avec des dimensions qui passent de genre 20mm normalement à 2000mm? à chaque fois je dois redimensionner et c'est pas toujours facile de retrouver les dimensions exactes quand la dimenion qui m'intéresse se trouve à l'intérieur de la pièce (je débute vraiment) et ca le fait aussi quand j'ouvre un fichier avec Cura depuis fusion 360... Merci d'avance
  8. Yesterday
  9. No problem. At the moment I'm about to correct an issue around the conversion process in the plugin, too. You probably noticed issues with that already. Feel free to join the general discussion all around the plugin here:
  10. @RobyRob You can find the macro (Python script) for the conversion inside the plugin here: https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraFreeCadPlugin/blob/master-updating-conversion-script/CuraFreeCADPlugin/scripts/convertIntoSTL.py This is the one I use in the latest unreleased package. As far as I understand, after opening the file I should be able to get the active object via native_file.ActiveObject, no? So the differences you probably see, is that you have unsaved changes. The plugin runs FreeCAD and the mentioned macro in the background. It doesn't know anything about the unsaved changes someone made inside FreeCAD's window at the moment.
  11. I promised myself I wouldn't get into gcode or writing 3d printing tools, but then I always promise myself I won't get carried away writing "little" tools for games... After several days trying to get the print bed low enough that material *would* come out of the nozzle, a thought occurred to me: Is there a good reason to print a blob on the plate instead of purging the nozzle off the edge of the bed and wiping it? I realize you don't want to smack the delicate nozzle on the something hard and potentially sharp, especially not while it's hot. But isn't there a way to access the auto-level sensor through g-code so that a plugin could look for the edge of the bed and thus carefully move past it, purge, and then wipe the nozzle on the edge of the build pate?
  12. OH. MY. GOD. I want to cry 😞 I was literally in the process of putting my UM 3 back in the box earlier this week after feeling so utterly betrayed when the printer started behaving like any-old $140 printer. But the real issue was I'd gotten *so* delighted with it, that to speed up my printing cycle, I had flipped the glass over to start a print on the other side. The first print had gone fine, and I forgot. But after that the printer went to absolute crap. The next print failed to adhere Colorfabb nGen, but not on the first few layers like you'd like. The result was a huge nasty blob of ngen which utterly covered both printcores(*). I couldn't get Printcore 1 off so I followed a guide to strip down the print head. I got most of the ngen off both heads, I survived re-assembly of the printhead with only stupid derps (I put all the power connectors back in r-to-l instead of l-to-r). But then I couldn't get any adhesion. I couldn't print the x/y calibration because either the head was too close and nothing came out, or the calibration just wouldn't stick and wound up wrapped around the print core (causing those little white pad things on the bottom of the print head to get sucked into a ball of filament while I was waiting for it to calibrate). I spent literal days messing with settings. When I did find settings that worked on the first layer, things went back to crap the instant I tried a real print - I think cura tries to wipe the nozzle on the prime blob, which used to work with the same temp/ultimaker filament but now routinely just drags the blob into the print; brim and raft are welded so tightly to the model I have to try and design them into the print because they're not coming off... The only thing I didn't think to try was to flip the god damn bed over. Fortunately, buildtak seems to have come to my rescue. But ... this is something you need to get to your users! Is there a way to permanently stain the bed? My sticker came off as I was inserting it into the printer the first time and then permanently the first time I cleaned the bed. (* They *touch wood* seem to be working now ... but there's definitely some evidence of deterioration :()
  13. See my reply here: - Make sure you check the print core, under those soft-white tabs ... and on the back of the heating element, make sure you don't have gunk; - Don't mix manual and auto; - "Some resistance" is a really terrible description of what you are looking for 😞
  14. I've just gotten done recovering with leveling issues on my UM3, my core findings being this: - Glue, even fingerprints on the bed, can affect the leveling results, - There are little soft-material covers by the print head. They're not solid, and material can get pushed up behind them. Take your printcores out and give them a thorough inspection, as this can throw leveling, - When I added a buildtak flex bed, I didn't realize just how much it would throw leveling, or that it would render auto-leveling useless, - Manual level OR auto level, don't expect both to work The auto leveling seems to have certain limitations that go out of whack the instant you touch any of the screws. There also seem to be several bugs in the manual leveling process. In order to successfully level my printer, I totally ignored the display and did my own thing, because so many of the prompts were unhelpful (and the lack of a "go back" or "cancel" option is totally frigging annoying with the U3s oops-I-dialed-when-you-clicked dial). I would recommend you do a fresh manual level: Start by turning all of the screws to make sure they don't feel super loose - don't over-tighten them either. I changed mine from being so lose I could brush one finger tip past and turn them to where I don't need to grip them but I need a fingertip on both sides for them to turn. Next, run the manual level and for the "1mm away" step, use something like a credit card. I used an old one and made sure that the raised print fit under the nozzle. No accuracy is really required for this step but I found it helped if all 3 checks were about the same height. For the calibration card check: my leveling had resulted in the nozzle being so low that nothing came out. So, I replaced the calibration card with a thin sheet of card, about double+ the thickness of the calibration card. This had several advantages, not least being that its flat without requiring any pressure which might invalidate the calibration. When you do this, you're not looking to feel like the card is being caught on the nozzle. You should be sweeping the card/sheet back and forth and then adjusting until you can *just* barely tell that there might be contact with the card. I found this so hard to judge that what I actually did was reach the original point I considered "a little resistance" and then give the screw a 1/16th turn in the opposite direction, which put me at a place that ever-so barely felt a little different than moving the card away from the nozzle. Then I did a fairly simple test print of a single-layer circular face with a rectangular cut-out in the middle (15mm diameter, 8x5 rectangle). I still ultimately wound up making a couple tiny screw adjustments, but I also discovered that running an autolevel after this made things worse again, so I repeated the manual level and I've been getting great prints again. I'm about to apply GR5's tip on setting "Combing Mode" to "not in skin" in the hopes I stop getting horrible, messed up first/top layers.
  15. That is correct. In the object tree (where you see all steps, which have been done to build your body) you will see the active object in bold letters. Normally, this is the state which you can see in the 3D view at the same time. So what you see after opening FreeCAD, should be what you get in Cura. 🙂
  16. Bump with thanks to @gr5 -- great info. Thinking about how my printer routinely drags the prime blob into the print (it looks like it tries to wipe the nozzle but the nozzle is still too hot) and wanted a repl to experiment with - this seems like it might be close enough. You mentioned a web service, and I guess it'd be easy enough to flask something, but is there any real interest in poking at this kind of level by other people? If so, maybe I'll look at making time to write a Jupyter kernel (https://github.com/jupyter/jupyter/wiki/Jupyter-kernels)
  17. @thopiekar Thank for your answer. Another question / clarify: which is the Freecad object that is import in Cura? From my test it is the last body created in Freecad before saving it, not the active body or selected body: So if I have more body I need to fuse all toghether as last operation before save. Is this right?
  18. Yes, it is the same, but it is a nightly build. In short: The package has been built automatically without increasing the version. It will be 0.3.1 in the future if nothing comes in between. If someone else could also confirm that everything works great, I'll care about uploading it to the marketplace as soon as possible. If there is anything else like other remaining problems or missing features, please share them in the other thread I mentioned above! 😉 Regards - Thomas
  19. Hello @Froissart. Yes, the z-hop will work irrespective of whether it is the extruder that moves up and down or the build plate that moves up and down.
  20. I'm using Cura at school with CR10S and Ender 3 printers. We are having trouble with the extruder bumping the models off the build plate. I see the Z hop option but it explains the build plate will move down but on the printers we use the plates are fixed the extruder moves in the Z direction. Will this option work with the Creality printers or other printers with fixed build plates?
  21. Hi, i see this problem also in other slice, in cura sometimes there is support column when no need, this is an example: in this case the problem is the stringing effect between the real 3 part and the "no need" support column between... How i can manage this? I got same problem also with other part, in similar condition, 2 hole near each other but i do not want cura make it, it useless.
  22. The front belt looks loose on the bottom but is tight on top. It prints well like it is so I have chosen not to adjust it. At some point you might want to make this adjustment or replace the belt.
  23. "The difference between the detected height of the two printcores exceeds the realistic values" It will usually help if you have a correct bed leveling. Level the bed manually first, in a way that you have about 13-14mm to the bottom of the bed (works for me), see picture. Also if its one of the first UM3's it may still have a weak bed spring at the back of the 3 adjustment wheels. If you can very easily pres the bed down at the back, you want to replace this 3th spring. The AA0.4 core is indeed worn down by using abrasive materials. You can still print with it, use it for vase mode f.e., but you want to replace it for fine detail prints. If you want to print abrasives you need the CC0.6 core with the Ruby nozzle.
  24. pretty sure the gummy bears feel different about this 🙂
  25. Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  26. Hi, first point, i suggest you turn your text-color to an eye-friendly black, als this (50%?) grey is very hard to read (no offend, just a proposal) ;-). This flat nozzle tip IS unusual and absolutely not correct. It reminds me to reports of other people, who printed with abrasive materials, which eroded the nozzles and made them unusable (that's why hardened steel nozzles and ruby nozzles, like the CC Printcore, exist). The tip of your BB Core looks as it should be. So, in my oppinion, the worn is to be replaced with a new one. Usualy the UM3(E) is shipped with two AA cores and one BB Core. Is the second AA still available? Greetings.
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