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  2. Ah ouiiii merci pour ces précieux conseils, comme quoi... on nous dit rien 😄 en effet il faut pas mal d'eau pour diluer, pour l'idée de la pompe je pense acheter "tout en un" un aquarium à poisson rouge 😛 sinon c'est quoi "modifier léger le chevauchement, minimiser les jointures et se mettre en mode spiralize" ? je suis en français dans Cura
  3. I never thought to just peel off the sheet. Can I reuse and reapply it after I'm done printing Nylon? I have one of those PEI sheets with the adhesive on the back. I'm on the Amazon page right now for it and it doesn't say if it's reusable after peeling the whole thing off.
  4. We recently added an S5 to our lab (already have a 3E). I have been printing parts for a project for over a year on the 3E. I can fit 25 to 30 of the same part on a 3E build plate. I can fit twice that amount on the S5 build plate. I finally started printing my next production batch of parts on both printers. I am noticing that some parts on the S5 appear to be warping. This is occurring at the outer edges of build plate only. This doesn't happen on the 3E. My first assumption is that since it is larger build plate, perhaps the bed temperature is not as consistent toward the outer edges. Has anyone done evaluations on the bed temperature consistency on the S5? My next print I will probably bump up the bed temp a few degrees to see if that changes anything.
  5. I cannot find the thread at the moment, but I believe that UM said that they would not be making and selling an upgrade for the UM3 to implement the feeder sensor. Their decisions was based on both financial and technical reasons, as far as I can remember. @SandervG, perhaps you could confirm and give more explanations on that decision, please?
  6. I'd peel off the sheet for Nylon. It's great for PP. Is it already ripped in places anyway? Flipping over is fine. The two sides of the glass are not identical - one side is hydrophobic or something - not sure. But I've flipped over 2 of my glass plates on 2 of my ultimakers and it prints fine. I mean I always have a coating of PVA (as shown in the video) so I'm not sure it matters which side I print on.
  7. @gr5 as you know i m not english, so i m looked up that time the word in dic for that problem! so shrinkage? is the problem?!? or which word? i never used warping... sure i solved it last year and the year before........and i think i solved it this year also.... but i dont understand it..... in 2017 it was the bedtemp, go von 60 to 58 ,,,in 2018 vom 58 to 55 and now i m low as 52!!! and the new problem came with the cura 4......so i think thats in allllllllll the many settings, one, which is for my problem.......but i dont know that factor
  8. I use a bed adhesion sheet and no glue. That obviously didn't work for this. Do you think I should use the bed adhesion sheet with glue or flip it over and just use glass?
  9. Awesome! Just ordered from your store GR5. Thanks so much for all of this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  10. Si la valeur Z du gcode continue de monter alors c'est l'imprimante qui est en cause. Par contre je ne sais pas d'où ça vient, voir si c'est un bug et que l'imprimante croit être au Zmax... Ou essaye via Pronterface ou octoprint de faire naviguer en Z pour voir si ton imprimante est capable de faire Zmin - Zmax. Si tu y arrives "manuellement" via ces logiciels ça veut dire que ton moteurs / axes / vis sont hors de cause, il faudra lors regarder dans le paramétrage interne de ta machine pour vérifier les min/max... Si par contre tu n'y arrives pas manuellement c'est que quelque chose coince parmi ces 3 éléments. Ou alors que l'imprimante bloque parce qu'elle se croit toujours au Zmax. Pas facile à voir sans être devant la machine...
  11. What kind of printer do you have? You need to: Get a heated bed that can go up to 160C (simple enough - add a supplemental heater and let the built in heater regulate the temp) Air temp needs to be 65C so you need to enclose the printer Servos need to be cooled (65C will destroy servos, 40C is safe) Nozzle needs to be able to get to 400C (this is maybe the easiest part usually as there are so many hot ends for sale out there to choose from). Teflon melts before 400C so you need an all metal hot end. Which won't work with PLA (can't use PLA with all metal hot ends). More info:
  12. I believe M0 turns off the heater on some printers and if so, then the code needs a bit more work. If the file you printed is small, please post the gcode so I can look at it. If it isn't small, slice a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube with a pause at 5mm and post that gcode.
  13. My nylon sticks so well that it sometimes pulls a chunk of glass off when I remove the part. For nylon I use the exact PVA mixture shown in this video but UM recommends to use glue stick alone to prevent damaging the glass (nylon and CPE have each damaged my glass they stick so damn well). Anyway watch this video to understand techniques to keep parts on the glass - you should be able to pick up the entire printer with a small UM robot print (I do this in the video).
  14. J'ai pas installé l'appli téléphone, je savais même pas que ça existait 😂 Mais si ils ont prévu ça c'est que ça doit pouvoir fonctionner... Autrement l'imprimante est pas chez moi, quand je veux la surveiller j'utilise teamviewer de chez moi et je regarde via cura sur mon pc en local. Après avec un pc portable je sais pas comment faire, autrement tu peux surveiller via une page internet et non cura, et doit y avoir moyen de partager cette page hors réseau local.
  15. I sell them: thegr5store.com Get a 35W while you are at it. The nozzle heats up faster and doesn't limit your printing volume as much: if you print with 0.8mm nozzle and at 0.4mm layers, the standard heater can't keep up (just printed a 1mm nozzle 0.5mm layer part yesterday).
  16. Merci pour ta réponse. D'après ce que tu me dis c'est plutôt un bug imprimante! Saurais tu d'où ça peut provenir ? C'est d'autant plus étrange car avec slic3r ça marche.
  17. @Edel it's been over a year since you posted this. You talk about "shrinkage" and "warpage" but people have different definitions. In your case: shrinkage=parts smaller near heated bed warpage=parts lift off the bed on corners Solve "warpage" by watching my video again. Clean the bed at least once per month (see the cleaners I use - soap and glass cleaner), use liquid pva (I show 3 methods to do this), use brim for large parts, use curved corners if possible, squish the bottom layer extra. Solve shrinkage - well you already solved it above if you read your posts. Shrinkage is caused because the pla is like a liquid rubber band and pulls inward. It's worse near the heated bed and then recovers moving upwards. You can switch from a heated bed to blue tape. That will help a lot (you must clean the tape with alcohol - watch the video above). You can lower the bed temp to 50C (but now you have to pay a lot of attention to keep the part sticking on the bed - watch my video above). Also printing the inner walls first can help with what you call shrinkage. I think this is on by default: "outer before inner walls" unchecked. Also turning the fan on sooner might help. But may hurt the bottom layer. Also if you are printing small parts it may help to print a few of them. I notice you said that some parts were worse. Maybe those are the parts where it switched layers. If you look at the layer view in cura you can see which part or parts have the layer change - those parts don't have as much time to cool down before it starts another layer. This only matters for small parts.
  18. Oui moi dans le dessiccateur c'est parce qu'on fait du moulage plastique donc je met 30min et ça ressort sec comme un biscuit de l'armée 😄 Autrement j'ai pu tout les réglages en têtes mais regarde les profils ou mode "vase", il y a plein de tuto pour combiner un max de réglages dans cura qui donne un print parfaitement étanche. De mémoire faut mettre flow à 110% ou 120%, modifier léger le chevauchement, minimiser les jointures et se mettre en mode spiralize. Une fois réglé étanche (tu peux tester avant en imprimant un vase pour justement vérifier l'imperméabilité) tu verras que même plongé dans l'eau pendant plusieurs heures le print ne se remplis pas de flotte. Perso aussi pour accélérer la fonte du PVA j'ai mis 4 petites pompes de fontaine ou d'essuie-glace que j'oriente vers le PVA. Comme ça l'eau est en mouvement et c'est vachement plus rapide que de l'eau statique. Fait bien attention à respecter le volume d'eau par rapport et nombre de gramme de PVA pour que l'eau ne soit pas saturé en PVA et donc incapable d'en dissoudre d'avantage.
  19. The problem is that PLA (and PLA HT) sticks to itself as it prints, like snot or mucus. As it prints the inner wall it is stretched like a liquid rubber band (it's tight because the PLA also shrinks as it cools in the first milliseconds out of the nozzle). This pulls inward and makes vertical holes smaller than desired. With a 0.4mm nozzle the shrinkage is usually 0.4 to 0.5mm (diameter). I'm not surprised it's bigger with a 0.8mm nozzle. The best solution by far is to just fix it in CAD. Note that the outer diameter can shrink also but not as much as the rest of the part supports that outer wall from shrinking. All manufacturing techniques (milling, FFF, SLA, injection molding) require that you fudge things like this in CAD. Some people who do injection molding don't know this as the "factory" takes care of that step for you.
  20. @montcrozier : tu ne peux pas puisque ça imprime le PLA et PVA en même temps, et du coup le PVA masque les parties accessibles par l'eau 🙂 #Alex : sur de grosse pièces c'est galère l'air, ou alors tu y passes des plombes + 3 bombes entière 🙂 pas mal l'idée du débit pour forcer à souder les couches concentriques... tu règles ce paramètre où dans Cura ? je vais chercher dans le forum alors, merci
  21. To give you an idea, i have both. 3 is not better than S5, in terms of printing quality. Where S5 stands out is the ease of use. (bed levelling, filament sensor, and ofcourse build volume) If a buy an extra, it would be the 3.
  22. I still haven't been able to compile cura yet. whenever I try to run or build CuraEngine, those errors at the top show up, and because it's not my code, I don't know how it's "supposed to be". right now, all my files are just kinda set in the "c:/dev" directory. it feels kinda wrong, but I've never had to build dependencies of dependencies before. I did try to just take a curaengine.exe to a cura repo clone, but I got stuck trying to build uranium, 'cause there are no instructions at all for that one. libSavitar worked perfectly in the first try, though!...but it is self-contained, meaning my computer/setup has loads of issues finding dependencies.
  23. Depuis je que print, quand je veux du solide en terme de résistance pièce, je remplis à 33% (au dessus inutile) en cubique, et les épaisseur de parois et dessus/dessous en fonction des chocs que vont prendre les pièces. C'est vraiment le réglage le plus costaud que j'ai trouvé, sachant que mes pièces sont utilisé dans le domaine de la mécanique. J'augmente parfois légèrement le chevauchement ou le débit pour avoir une fusion plus importante des couches, et évidemment quand vraiment faut du lourd pour de l'abrasion / frottement continue je print en Nylon. J'ai des pièces qui tournent depuis plusieurs mois en Nylon sans trop de soucis.
  24. le PVA ultimaker déshydraté va relativement bien, autrement oui le Atlas est bien ! Sinon depuis je n'utilise quasi plus de PVA parce que je fais en sorte de gérer mon 3D pour ne pas en avoir besoin, ou alors je dessine moi même les supports de sorte que je puisse les sortir de mes print en jouant avec des petits pinces 😉
  25. oui je pense Alex, As-tu installé le cloud ? moi ça ne marche pas, et peux-tu visionner à distance en non local sur l'app du tel ? je trouve cette fonction vraiment gadget du coup si on ne peut que en local. je vais remettre ma cam IP
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