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  3. I have also had the "ghost print core" a couple of times. Wit me it course after a print is done. Some times I have had luck in just turning of the printer at the back, and when it powered on again the core was registered. If that doesn't help you can, unclamp the bowden at the back, release the fillemet tensioner and pull a bit of fillment throw, then you can cut the fillement and pull of the bowen. carefully try and "cold pull" the fillemet out and if not possible cut the fillement right between the cors metal part and bottom of the print head. It is prity hard to cut without damaging the print head, so if in doubt I would check if it's covered by the warranty. Why do my posts always double post pictures??
  4. I have used this concept before when printing large overhangs. It was based on an idea of another user, but I forgot his name (might have been smartavionics?). It works very well, even with only a few connecting strands. My strands were 1mm long, 0.5mm wide, and 0.2mm high (=2 layers of 0.1mm). Inverted triangles to generate support do not work well for small layer-heights of 0.1mm: they tend to curl up too much. Inverted staircases (1mm steps) worked better for me. See the pics. So, depending on the design, this method can be very usefull. Inverted triangles curl up too much. Basic concept: Long bridge with hanging support, so the text below does not get damaged by the supports. All plates are 1mm thick in this test. The little ribs on top of the support are 0.5mm wide, separated 1mm. The result. The supports can easily be removed, and they do very little damage to the walls.
  5. I tried doing this manually: cut both ends at 90° angles, hold them together in a custom device (see pic below), heat a knife in a flame, put the hot knife inbetween both filament ends and melt them, remove knife, push both molten ends together, and let cool. Then you need to grind away the flange at the seam, otherwise it will not pass through the bowden tube and nozzle. You need to melt both ends to get a good bonding, then it is almost as strong as new. This method works and can especially be usefull for artistic purposes: to melt lots of different colors together. But it is not worth the time and hassle for me. So I use the left-over ends for doing atomic pulls, or for other purposes where I need a bit of plastic. For example you can heat a left-over strand, and ply it around something else (think of cable binders). Or ply them into hooks or clamps, or whatever.
  6. Maybe there are different infill patterns, or infill percentages, in which the nozzle follows a different traject with less starts and stops, and less jumps? I don't know if this is possible, but just guessing. Check this in layer view in Cura, before printing.
  7. It appears that OpenGL is coming with the graphics drivers. OpenGL is a specification to which drivers and hardware have to adhere, it is not a driver by itself. I am just echoing what I read on internet here (and hope it is correct), I am not a programmer. :-) So the latest graphics driver should give the latest version, if the hardware supports it. And if the manufacturer delivers new drivers for your system. Search for: "windows how to update opengl". Also there might be incompatible or buggy drivers, so in such cases you might need to try a different version, higher or lower than your current version. I am not sure, but I vaguely remember something that this was the case with some Intel laptop drivers?
  8. The CC 0.6 core is not compatible with 1.75mm filament. A Cura (?) crash occuring when changing the filament diameter to 1.75mm is therefore probably not considered to be a bug with high priority to fix. Best thing you could do is to use 2.85mm material.
  9. So now that the smal part are oke I went a bit bigger but then I noticed something wierd. When there are small bits of infill it sort of curl up and does not stick very well to the previous layer. The bits of curled infill next to the wall get picked up by the nozzle and drops them later on. I lowerd the infill speed so it would have some time to stick to the previous layer. I dropped from 70 to 50 mm/s but it looks like it does not have very much of an effect. Any ideas on how to fix this?
  10. I guess it would look exactly the same with retractions turned off (you can try it). Actually it looks like retractions do not work on your printer. CR-10 has an extruder with bowden tube, right? In this case: take sure that the bowden does not move - it has to be steadily fixed on both ends (feeder and extruder). The bowden tube shall never move (in longitudinal direction) - only the filament inside. And be aware that retraction speed (or more generally: speed for each axis) is usually limited by the firmware. In most cases it is unnecessary to try crazy high speeds, because the printer will never reach it.
  11. @Gigi I have the same question. Have you had any luck printing PCL? Thank you!
  12. Thats really nice trick!! thank you for a nice hack!! it is sustainable and easy way!!
  13. Hello, I have a CC Red 0.6 and trying to print GF30-PA6 Material, The filament diameter is 1.75mm but the extruder shows a compatible material diameter of 2.85mm. When I try to change this setting through Printer settings, Extruder (1/2), then change the compatible diameter to 1.75mm, i am unable to go to the materials section to change the material to 1.75mm as well. It crashes every time i try to (ctrl+K) open Materials. Is there a solution to this or should I just use the printhead with the default settings?
  14. You mean like the horizontal offset setting?
  15. It seems like some of the libraries it's linking to are of the wrong architecture. I'm building cura on Linux myself, so I don't know how to resolve this specific issue.
  16. Hello! Yeeeesssss I get some changes! 😅 See below a pics of 2 last prints. I joined start layer change together. This result is confirming problem get his origin in layer change. Now how to hide this bad line?🙄 Kind regards
  17. I haved used the printer over Ethernet for almost 2 months without any problems. The printer just randomly gets unreachable for an hour every day, and suddenly works out of nowhere.
  18. Hi Waldo, I don't mind doing your print so you can compare. but can I get you to upload it as a "Cura Project (.3mf)" I like to check the settings before printing.
  19. so I did a test with and without the Z offset and it did not make any visual difference. I did al my tests with a layer height of 0.1mm and these are the settings I got the best results with(on an Ultimaker S5): temp: 245/70 flow: 93.5 max retractions: 100 avoid parts: ON retraction speed: 35 retraction distance: 10 coasting: OFF Z offset: 0 And then I changed the layer height to 0.2mm and it came out even better. Here are some pictures of the tests: first pic is best result. second is in PLA. third is first and last result forth is first/worst test result
  20. dxp

    Colorfabb LW-PLA

    If you are able to read german, check this out: Toller Schaumschläger: Colorfabb LW-PLA
  21. Watching the current printed layer is the best option, IMHO. However, the depth-of-field of the camera could be better. Even better would be a focussing option.
  22. That makes a lot of sense. I learned something new today! Would you recommend using netfab regularly to clean up prints then?
  23. Depending on how that web site constructs the geometry, I’m not surprised with there being problems. Fonts are designed primarily for rendering on a 2D surface where overlapping shapes do not matter. So the loops likely are defined by curves that cross through the stem. Naively extruding that shape into 3D leaves an area that intersects with itself, causing internal geometry which causes the slicer to confuse what is inside vs outside the solid.
  24. Thank you, looks great now.
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