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  2. @montcrozier : tu ne peux pas puisque ça imprime le PLA et PVA en même temps, et du coup le PVA masque les parties accessibles par l'eau 🙂 #Alex : sur de grosse pièces c'est galère l'air, ou alors tu y passes des plombes + 3 bombes entière 🙂 pas mal l'idée du débit pour forcer à souder les couches concentriques... tu règles ce paramètre où dans Cura ? je vais chercher dans le forum alors, merci
  3. To give you an idea, i have both. 3 is not better than S5, in terms of printing quality. Where S5 stands out is the ease of use. (bed levelling, filament sensor, and ofcourse build volume) If a buy an extra, it would be the 3.
  4. I still haven't been able to compile cura yet. whenever I try to run or build CuraEngine, those errors at the top show up, and because it's not my code, I don't know how it's "supposed to be". right now, all my files are just kinda set in the "c:/dev" directory. it feels kinda wrong, but I've never had to build dependencies of dependencies before. I did try to just take a curaengine.exe to a cura repo clone, but I got stuck trying to build uranium, 'cause there are no instructions at all for that one. libSavitar worked perfectly in the first try, though!...but it is self-contained, meaning my computer/setup has loads of issues finding dependencies.
  5. Depuis je que print, quand je veux du solide en terme de résistance pièce, je remplis à 33% (au dessus inutile) en cubique, et les épaisseur de parois et dessus/dessous en fonction des chocs que vont prendre les pièces. C'est vraiment le réglage le plus costaud que j'ai trouvé, sachant que mes pièces sont utilisé dans le domaine de la mécanique. J'augmente parfois légèrement le chevauchement ou le débit pour avoir une fusion plus importante des couches, et évidemment quand vraiment faut du lourd pour de l'abrasion / frottement continue je print en Nylon. J'ai des pièces qui tournent depuis plusieurs mois en Nylon sans trop de soucis.
  6. le PVA ultimaker déshydraté va relativement bien, autrement oui le Atlas est bien ! Sinon depuis je n'utilise quasi plus de PVA parce que je fais en sorte de gérer mon 3D pour ne pas en avoir besoin, ou alors je dessine moi même les supports de sorte que je puisse les sortir de mes print en jouant avec des petits pinces 😉
  7. oui je pense Alex, As-tu installé le cloud ? moi ça ne marche pas, et peux-tu visionner à distance en non local sur l'app du tel ? je trouve cette fonction vraiment gadget du coup si on ne peut que en local. je vais remettre ma cam IP
  8. Je règle épaisseur de paroi et dessus/dessous à 0.8mm et je passe la largeur de ligne de 0.35 par défaut à 0.5 😉 gain de 30% de temps !
  9. Vu la trace d'amorçage autour qui a l'air d'être à la bonne place je pense aussi que c'est ton axe Y qui patine et décale donc le print...
  10. Regardes si le décalage est le même quand le plateau est en bas et quand il est en haut, c'est des axes calibrés, si il y a un décalage ça ferait plus que grincé les moteurs n'aimeraient pas du tout je pense, c'est peut-être seulement le cache qui est décalé. Idem Didier 👍
  11. Lis le Gcode sur word ou le bloc note pour voir si la valeur de Z continue de s'incrémenter, si non c'est un bug logiciel, si oui c'est un bug imprimante.
  12. Yes problème récurrent de courroie mal tendu 😉
  13. Je suis en ethernet et franchement ça fonctionne au top, même la vidéo a distance est très bien. Effectivement wifi faut pas être loin... ou avoir un réplicateur pas loin.
  14. Les réglages de cura sont bon ? Vérifie bien que tu print en couche de 0.4mm et pas 0.2mm autrement analyse les couches dans cura, peut-être que la buse fait des mouvement saccadé inutile avec la buse de 0.8mm. Pense dans cura à repasser par les configuration recommandé avant de repasser en personnalisé, comme ça tu es sur d'avoir la bonne base de réglage.
  15. Great! Thanks for reporting back. I remember going back and forth a few times between these instructions and I had to change a few things as wel (and changed the document), but I don't think I had to touch that particular makefile. But whaterver works 🙂
  16. Perso le peu de fois où j'ai eu des soucis d'infiltration d'eau dans mes pièces je les passe au dessiccateur à air comprimé, mais parce que j'ai accès à ça au boulot... Autrement depuis je ne m'en sers plus, quand je fais avec du PVA, soit c'est une très petite pièce et dans ce cas j'imprime en 100% sinon j'imprime en concentrique sans discontinuité (minimum de jointure) avec un débit de 120% + les réglages comme pour faire un vase ou récipient étanche. Tu trouveras ces réglages sur le forum, avec ça l'eau dissous le PVA mais n'entre pas dans le PLA !
  17. IT WORKED!...sorta. well, it didn't, till I did something. every step other than protobuf changed a bit, so here's the explanation: I kept getting errors like "access denied" and "could not find directory" from using nmake install on sip, which meant something was wrong in its makefile (lucky guess I swear) I went into the sip makefile that popped up after using configure.py, and one of the lines... looked a little screwy. so I removed it and it worked with no issues. it seems that line was just to make/read a text file? weird. (see included image and tell me if I shot myself in the foot.) then I built Arcus. no errors, other than that I needed to use the cmake gui and build from within visual studio. It kept making .a files and doing other weird things when I followed the directions. CuraEngine stumped me till I faffed about with cmake gui till I found it wasn't finding its own lib files, that explained why clipper and rapidjson aren't listed as dependencies. after that (thank you vcpkg for having my back for protobuf and cppunit) I was able to open CuraEngine in visual studio, and immediately found some of the files and code I'd need!(cool!) Now, I have one last hurdle before the engine's out of the way... does this mean I have to put arcus somewhere inside curaengine's directory, or am I just really bad at system variables or something? The header files listed exist, but not directly inside the arcus directory. they're in layer lower than arcus/, in LibArcus/src/.
  18. Today
  19. et passer un imperméabilisant avant de mettre les pièces dans l'eau?
  20. Hello, I print with an UM2+ printer for 2 years and I have never tried to bond two different PC printed parts. Once I tried PLA parts to bond with Pattex glue and the result was not that satisfying. Is there anybody tried to bond two PC parts and succeeded?
  21. In my experience: - If bed temp is too low: the model is very stiff, and the model-edges generally do not lift much, but the whole model may suddenly pop-off the glass, due to insufficient bonding. - If bed temp is too high: the bottom of the model stays too soft, so the edges may lift due to shrinkage forces acting upon the higher layers, and the whole model may gradually peel off the glass. - Walls too thin: walls are pulled inwards (similar to the effect you see), and the models tends to lift at the edges and gradually come off the glass. It is like a cardboard box that you fold inwards. - Not enough infill: walls may be unstable and sag if printed rather hot, and if the bed is rather hot. - Models with high infill (70...100%) rarely deform, althoug they may lift edges if the bed is too hot. - Very small models need an extra "dummy cooling block" next to them, so the print head is moved away for some time, so this small part gets time to cool and solidify. I needed to find a balance where the bed temp is high enough to make the model bond well, but not so high that it deforms, sags, or peels off. The optimal bed temperatures differ from material to material: for PLA it is 60°C, for PET it is 90°C in my system. But this could be different for your printer and materials of course. Thin-walled objects with sharp corners and no infill, need a brim. This could be the standard brim, or a custom designed brim in CAD, depending on the model (sometimes only one little area needs a brim). Otherwise I get the effect you see. Models with high infill, generally need no brim for me. I am not sure that these are the effects you see in your models, but it could be. Have a look at this: the dummy cube (green, top-right) needs a brim because it is hollow at the bottom. Otherwise the walls tend to bend inwards and it tends to come off the glass. The supports (pink and orange) also need a brim because they are very small, only a few millimeters, and they have long overhangs which tend to curl up, making the nozzle bang into these curls and knock the part off. The rest prints perfectly fine without brim. All have 100% infill (except the hollow text and ruler, and the dummy cube). For reference: text caps-heigt = 3.5mm, and its legs are 0.5mm. The green dummy block is to provide enough cooling time for the top-section of the yellow part, otherwise these top layers do not solidify. This prints well in both PET and PLA.
  22. Hello, Parce que les couches de fil ne sont jamais complètement soudées, même avec des murs de plusieurs épaisseurs de passes il y a toujours de l'air à passer entre, et donc de l'eau aussi. En tout cas chez moi en PLA.
  23. Link

    line width

    Interesting, How did you measure the nozzle, some sort of optical method ?
  24. My point is that the rated size of my nozzle is 0.4. So unsurprisingly in Cura I set my nozzle size to 0.4 and line width to 0.4. But at some stage, about a year ago, I checked this and found that my nozzle size was 0.45, wear and tear? Or to be more accurate the width of the filament flowing out of the nozzle with a manual feed was 0.45. So I set nozzle size and line width to 0.45 and improved my results
  25. B-morgan.. Well.your new layer code you sent works a treat. (Layer3 file) Just printing a 2 colour file i made in TinkerCad and it pauses perfectly! I manually change filament at this point. The only issue i had was during pause and it says "do it" , it turned my hotend off and continued to print with no extrusion due to heater being off. I saved it by quickly turning the heater on as it only had lost 10degrees.. But it knew heater was off. Maybe this was a standby setting i had , but a heater off warning and an extended pause until rectified would be nice. (A visual warning or alarm beep) Its only by fluke i noticed the heater got turned off. If i left it it would be printing with no extrusion. Apart from this glitch which i believe was my fault in a setting , it works perfect. Thankyou. Marty Ps.. btw the beep flag ticked works fine. Its a great alert to give a heads up!
  26. Technically it's simple, it would just mean an upgrade with the S5 feeders, and implementation in the firmware like in the S5. But it's not very interesting for Ultimaker to do so, so I'm pretty sure this will not happen. At some point there will probably be a successor for the UM3 that will get this (and at the same time fix the lack of abrasive resistant feeder on the UM3) edit: not saying the technique is simple, Ultimaker struggled for years with it... but now it's ready on the S5 it should be simple to move to a new machine....
  27. @vincenthaude Zuhause habe ich einen selbstgebauten 3D-Drucker (E3D Titan Extruder, Filabase, Profilführungsschienen, ...) abgewandelt von Tech2Cs Hypercube auf Thingiverse und an der Arbeit habe ich einen Ultimaker S5. Der 3DBenchy ist zuhause gedruckt. Am Ultimaker S5 kann ich konstruktiv bedingt so eine gute Qualität nicht erreichen. Außerdem nutze ich Slic3r PE zuhause. Nach meinen Erfahrungen bekomme ich damit auch wesentlich bessere Drucke hin. Leider bin ich auf der Arbeit an Cura gebunden beim S5. Slic3r PE unterstützt den S5 nicht. Ich könnte dir also nur die Slic3r PE Settings sagen, wird vermutlich aber nicht so hilfreich sein.
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