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  2. I'm torn about the font choice for Ultimaker though. I get the symmetrical U as a logo but the rest? hmm. I kinda prefer the other font it appeared more clean, new one seems just like a basic typed out font from dafont or some free site. Legal issue? whatever. minor quarm. Please change it back, you can leave the U if you like. Eurostile is a fav of mine, lolz.
  3. Yes indeed, "insect antennas". I see this on PET too. Printing slower and cooler helps a bit for me, since there is less pressure build-up in the nozzle, and it leaks less. But I don't know a way to eliminate it.
  4. https://www.youmagine.com/jassicamark/designs
  5. I print PET on clean bare glass. Sometimes I use the "salt method", however this does not increase bonding for PET (contrary to for PLA), but rather reduces it slightly, but it makes it a lot easier to remove parts. To prevent warping, I use no cooling fans, or the absolute minimum. But no fans makes it more difficult to bridge gaps, so this is not suitable for every design. Most of my designs are long flat models without bridges. I tried dilluted white wood glue too a couple of times (ca. 10% glue in water), but this bonded way too strong: it tended to chip the glass while cooling, even before I started pulling the model off. So if you need a strong bond, this should work. :-) But the bed has to be hot enough: 60 or 70°C won't do for me. I need to set it to ca. 80...85°C. The photo below is what the bottom of my PET parts looks like: no corners lifting, and no problems making tiny holes. These are small models (see ruler behing in mm and cm), but it looks the same for my bigger models. Printed with the salt method to facilitate removal: you can see the tiny pits caused by the salt (looks like corrosion pits).
  6. Today
  7. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  8. Hello everyone, I don't have the option showed by the right red arrow. I choosed the extruder with a right clic (context menu) on the part. This morning I have made an other test : i have disabled the first extruder in the menu : settings/extruder 1/ disable extruder. And it works. For information, when i install a new version of Cura , i always keep the previous one, just in case. I have tried to reinstate the new version and delete the old one, I still don't have the option in the print settings menu on the right, and still the same problème. Regards. Bernard
  9. Sorry but this didn't help. I removed the 4.3 Config directory but no changes at all. A white screen appears nothing more. I attached the log for Cura just after installation, perhaps some one can help. Kind regards Willi cura.log
  10. if you don't know this video yet, it may give you some more ideas (or at least it proves that a clean print is possible on Creality printers). Slicer profiles are linked in the video description: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QRb54zVPfQ
  11. Hi, I have the same issues here. Tried several options for support with no satisfying result. This is how it's done in default "triangles support". Cura 4.1 0.15mm layer height PVA support Angle 60°
  12. Thanks @geert_2, your salt-method is genius, i tried it some weeks ago with success. But here it's about ABS. With wood glue and PLA i destroyed a glass plate in the fridge without any force (mixed it 1:3 - big mistake!) with aprinta pro the prints were ok, but i had to re-apply the glue after nearly every print the adhesion sheets were too sticky, the got worn out by removing after five prints on time i used bare glass and Isopropanol - worked the best results were produced using MagicGoo and z-offset: popping off after cooling down, no re-apply neccessary Since removing flat parts was sometimes quite tricky, i developed the idea of removing adhesive areas inside. To be honest, i found this technique on some printed parts by triangle labs for my Ender-3 Direct Drive Extruder and was eager to find a similar, aesthetically pleasing solution for me. Right now I'm printing and it looks promising.
  13. Okay, I understand better now, I'm on an UM2+, and when I tried to go to Marlin, it just refused to extrude the material
  14. It's maybe a bit cryptic but up to date: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/definitions
  15. Are you on an Ultimaker 2 or 2+? That one is special because it stores the main print parameters in the printer and you have to override it. If you want to override those settings in Cura, you indeed have to change the gcode flavor to "Marlin" in the machine settings. So that is a special case because of the printer, not because of Cura. Every other printer should have the print temperature in the custom settings in Cura.
  16. Hello ! Thank you for your answer ! I will try to install on my 2Go ^^
  17. Thank you for your answer, By visibility settings, I mean for instance the visibility of the nozzle temperature setting. Even if in the options, I turn the setting to be visible, It says that I have to change some other settings to make it visible, and those settings I just don't know where to find.
  18. Hello; Sorry for my late answer. Actually, I called the seller and we found that the the small steel rod was moved during tansportation maybe, so it couldn't actuate the end of stroke switch. I think it should be okay now. I tried two prints on it, and it seems to work. The quality wasn't as good as I expected, I got better prints on the ender 3 that I have at work, but I think it's because I didn't tune the options right ? I tried the Marlin G code, but the machine just refused to extrude any material, so I came back to the UM G code The reason I went to Marlin is to have access to some options like the temperature of the nozzle and of the bed. Do you have any ideas how to activate these options with the UM G code ?
  19. You find it here: ~/Library/Application Support/cura/4.3 When you delete the whole 4.3 directory or everything lower than this number, you will start with a fresh copy. You can also try to just rename the latest (4.3) folder to something else and delete the previous versions.
  20. The "Select Face to Align" feature requires a computer & GPU with at least OpenGL 4.1. If the system does not support OpenGL 4.1, the button for the feature will not show up. No amount of reinstalling will change that.
  21. Unfortunately, that list does not seem to be up to date.
  22. Cura Configuration Folder ? Wher is this situated!
  23. Cura 4.3 runs fine for me on Catalina, so it must be something with your installation. You can try to delete your Cura configuration folder, that you can start over with a fresh installation. But be aware that you will loose all your settings.
  24. Hi all, this weekend i updated to OSX Catalina 10.15 on my MAC. But know Cura 4.3 stays in a white blank screen and a rotaiting rainbow circle. How could I get CUra run again. I often use it because it is much better then simplify 3d. Help is realy wanted. Kind regards Willi
  25. Hello everyone! It's been another year, I've finally managed to get the designs finalized and printed, the fans ordered, and everything installed (among a slew of other printer upgrades). A problem I've run into is that, somehow, I blew the blowers within maybe 5 minutes of running them... I've tested the power coming out of the board, and that is working fine. It will drive any other fan. So the problem must be with the blowers. My theory right now is that the fans act as inductors when they're turned off, which causes a back current. What bothers me is that, to the best of my knowledge, the main board should also already be protected (after all, we don't put flyback diodes on any other fans). The fans I ordered ended up being the F00 variation of the blowers, with the built-in tachometers, as that was the only one on Mouser that could be ordered in low quantities (the non-tachometer version used in the Ultimaker can only be ordered in bulk). Perhaps the way the tachometer is internally wired requires it to be separately protected? I'm not sure how that would work, but it's the best bet I have right now. I think I've run into the bounds of my limited electronics knowledge, so if someone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance! Best, nerdwarrior
  26. Hi, I've had my printer for about a 2 months now (Ender 3). Oh yes, I know this is an ultimaker form but I sadly can't afford one. I do use cura so I decided to post here. Anyway I've had issues with these odd z layer lines on my prints they always occur at the same place. Image: https://imgur.com/a/EHHjSNB Things I've done so far: 1. I checked to see if my 8mm threaded z axis rod was bent. I sat it on a table and it was every so slightly bent, maybe .07 mm of bend. I find it hard to believe that that could actually cause my issue. 2. I've checked the alignment of my z stepper with the cuppler and rod. No issues there they rod slides in and out with ease when screws are loosened. 3. I checked the alignment of my frame on my machine. Everything is square within .1 of a mm. All screws are tight too. 4. I checked the belts on the x and y axis of the printer. Both are very tight and make a medium pitch sound when plucked like a guitar. 5. I checked my rollers and all rollers are tight but not too tight. I can still manually spin them with my hands. 6. I've checked the tension on the z 8mm threaded rod, the screws are snug but not all the way tightened down. 7. I've tried printing with heat off incase my of any bed heating issues, very minimul improvement. Other info: My z 8mm threaded rod is free floating and does not have a bearing at the top. My only other mods I did was add a bltouch and a 5015 petsfang. I print on glass at 210 degrees for pla. Going back to the z 8mm threaded rod as an ending note here. If I disconnect the z stepper cable and push the x carriage down really fast, I do notice that the top of the z rod wobbles just a little bit. I think I've tried everything here, that's why I'm posting. Could that .07 mm bend in my z rod actually cause the issue I'm seeing. Is that slight wobble actually my issue. If so where could I buy a rod that would be 100% straight unlike the one I have? If I forgot anything please let me know also sorry for any typos or errors. Thanks .
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