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  2. Hallo, Ja, die Frage nach den Dienstleistern hat sich damit erledigt. Meine Absicht war es relativ kleine Strukturen für Beschläge zu drucken. Auch nach mehreren Umkonstrutionen (bei der die Größe auf die maxiale Größe gebracht wurde) . wurde nicht die gewünschte Qualität und Festigkeit erreicht. Es wird jetzt ein reguläres Spritzgussteil mit Aluminium-Bauteilen kombiniert. Grüße, Hans-Peter PS: Drucker ist noch zu haben.
  3. With new updates the nozzle on 2+ and 2+EX dives directly into purge pile. I usually wipe with a small brush when it starts but now the clearance is gone. Saw the above picture with wire and came up with simple fix of my own. Using a thin wire brush and a couple paper clips (heavy duty - see picture) they hold the brush just fine and grab the purge blob. There will only be an issue if I have to utilize the area directly in purge pile. (program accordingly) Suggest 3mm or smaller brush. Does wipe the nozzle just a bit which is nice, too.
  4. Okay, I guess that'll have to be figured out then. It's mainly the 2 cylinders, on their side that are really ugly when they come out, it's essentially not a closed print so water and stuff could get inside. Those 2 cylinders are touching the bottom of the plate, currently blue tape, perhaps I'll try to do it with a 90*C bed just bare glass and see what happens. I like the idea of doing my own supports as well. Thank you.
  5. Can I ask anyone to try to use this model and see if the same problem exists in your Cura installation? Is it a problem in Cura software, or my installation of Cura, or maybe it's some problem with the model itself?
  6. You will have to do that in a 3D-CAD program. Cura is a slicer, not a 3D-editor.
  7. I have no solution for a smooth bottom plate on top of supports, for a single-nozzle printer (like my UM2). The underside where the support was, is always a bit rough. Except design changes: cutting the model in half, printing both halves on their flat cut side, and glueing both parts together afterwards. But you will see the seam. Or making the model asymmetrical, so that one side can be laid flat on the glass without need of support (if the design or function allows this). I once made testpieces for supports to try to minimize this roughness, and still be able to get the support off. A custom support with ribs gave the best result, but some roughness is still there. (See pic below: the numbers indicate the vertical gap in mm between the support ribs and the underside of the top plate. The ribs are 0.5mm, separated 1mm.) For testing, I recommend making a design with only the features under test, for example when testing the clamps, only print these clamps without the rest. Until you get this perfect. Idem for the supports: make a small test plate with just that. So you don't waste too much material and time.
  8. Hallo Community, ich habe Modelle mit dünnen "Wänden", eher Linien. In Cura werden diese beim Slicen nur als Schatten dargestellt und nicht als normale Layer Schicht. Nun gibt es ja die Option "Print Thin Walls". Ich dachte, dass hierdurch alle im Modell vorhandenen Linien mit gedruckt werden, egal wie dünn diese sind. Eben dann mit Düsendurchmesser. Da habe ich mich scheinbar geirrt. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit in den Einstellung, dass diese auch beim slicen erfasst werden, oder gibt es da gewisse Grenzen? Das Programm erkennt diese Strukturen ja scheinbar, schließlich stellt es diese ja als Schatten da. Als Beispiel hab ich mal unten ein Bild eingefügt. In diesem Beispiel fehlen dem Drachen die Flügel. In der STL Datei sind die Flügel vorhanden. Hoffe Ihr könnt mir weiterhelfen.
  9. I second scott's request. depending on what you are printed the bounding box is not enough.
  10. Yes, I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2 which does have a glass bed, I just put blue tape on it for some unknown reason. Perhaps straight glass would be the answer?
  11. Most people here are used to a very smooth surface on the bottom due to the glass plate Ultimaker printer print onto. I guess you refer to a non-Ultimaker printer?
  12. Hey Guys. How do you get the bottom of your print to be like the top? I have Iron enabled in Cura and the top comes out, really, really nice but the bottom that's adhered to the bed does not. Is there a feature or a way to make it come out nicer?
  13. Today I used the REST API to upload custom GUID and existing updated GUID profiles to achieve generic PLA colours in the material station, for now they have to be defined as new "types" of filament, not just a colour, but it works well with the generic PLA xml settings.
  14. Today
  15. Hi johnse, My test model details is various. This is Testman on Thingiverse. I created a model on 3D with different STL quality. No differences between them. Right surfaces are OK but curves show smalls over extrusions. It seems it occure on layer change. I use CURA 4.3.0 I tried : - enable retraction on layer change - heater change 190 to 210°C - speed change - model change I don't know what to do anything 😞 Thank in advance for your help.
  16. Good to hear it improved, do you have a Z offset for your PETG? Ridgid INK. Matterhackers and some other people highly recommend it, some even require it to print PETG. I haven't done it with my PETG prints but perhaps it would help for you, just offset it by 0.02 MM which will keep the nozzle a little more clear of any already laid down plastic, which in turn should help reduce the blobs.
  17. Interesting, perhaps I should try that. It works great for me to start with a cold bed and glue and once it gets the first layer down, crank the heat up. But I like the idea of a no hassle type printing. Now it seems I got this problem somewhat cracked (pun intended) due to the diameter of the cylinders snapping on, the inside would have a hollow spot and due to how small or slim that hollow spot was, it wouldn't infill it very well SO I increased the wall count from 4 to 6 which then maxes out the walls in that cylinder so it's "solid" which increased the strength of that piece by a chunk, to the point where I need channel locks to snap it onto a rail now. For some reason, when I print the complete part, one side snaps, I've printed 2 different ones now and both had 1 side which snapped, so I tried increasing the I.D of the cylinders to give it a little more room, only by 0.2 MM so hopefully that does something. But it seems like it's getting there, got a whole box filling up of failed prints, lol. One thing I would like to solve is how do I get the same look and feel of the top when it's ironed (Enabled iron in Cura) on the bottom where the brim is? Is there a way to do that? I tried increasing bottom layers and changing the pattern but it doesen't do much, it's still open which I don't like. Thank you for helping me here Geert, I appreciate it.
  18. Apologies, here are the files in question. output-12.gcode output-12.stl
  19. Morning gents and ladies. Having a bit of an issue with Cura and slicing a cursive lower case 'j' from an .stl file. A bit new at using a 3D printer, but tried enough to get the gist of what I'm doing. I've tried different cursive fonts of the letter 'j' as well (all with different .stl files, just in case the file had an issue), but the result is always the same. Am I missing a setting somewhere that could cause this? The print size is on the order of about 9 cm, and thus far I've had no problems with any of the other letters with loops. Thanks for the help!
  20. Wow .. for me this is completely unworkable .. any print with this kind of ribbling is plain ugly :-/. Especially when you see what my UM3 was capable of (which was perfect).
  21. After a long print, the printer keep being unreachable and wont upload new document for printing. Is there a solution for this?
  22. I do see same result wit my UM S5. Unfortunately for me any attemp to fix this has not worked so far. Good luck !
  23. After adding some materials via the API you can now just load them as different types of material for now. See the attached lock out due to not having break positions etc and then the result of using a more up to date xml.fdm_material with those fields. Good news is that custom writes to the tags works and selects colour GUIDs as expected. Ultimaker you should document the schema for the xml, there is a double entry for the U3 in most profiles.
  24. With the new firmware I found that even if you select to skip cooldown, you can not "confirm removal" of the print and move on with life untill the bed has cooled down to 59 deg. This is a pain if you are printing with CPE and the bed temp is 110deg and the you about the print on the first layer and want to restart the print right away. With previous firmware versions it was faster to powerdown and power up the printer to retain bed heat, but with the new firmware this too is not possible. When the printer restarts, it still wants to cooldown.
  25. Hi Echt wahnsinnig, was du mit deinem UMO+ schon alles angestellt hast! Mit den ganzen hochwertigen Markenteilen und dem Heated Chamber muss der sicher perfekt drucken. Ich bin auch am Überlegen, ob ich mir das E3D Chimera+ kaufe. Das Problem ist hald wirklich, dass das nur für 1.75mm Filament ist und ich habe nicht vor, das umzubauen. Du hast es ja auf 3mm umgebaut. Wie hast du das genau gemacht? Vielleicht kannst du es nochmal ein bisschen genauer beschreiben 🙂 So Custom-Made Titan Heatbreaks und die angeschweißten Bowden-Kupplungen schrecken mich ein wenig ab. Deine ganze Wasserkühlung mit den Radiatoren und sogar Peltier-Kühlung ist auch einfach nur krass! Ohne Heated Chamber wird aber eine normale Wasserkühlung mit 1 Radiator auch reichen oder? LG Jakob
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