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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Don't worry. A lot of the people working at Ultimaker still have "the small guys / girls" at heart. Probably because most of them used to be on the other side before. So even if the recently announced products don't match up with the expectations of that part of the market, it's by no means an indication that we forgot about all the other parts.
  2. 3 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  3. 2 points
    No need the reset something. Check if your end stop switches are still working. These are the 2 black switches in the back left corner on the top. Turn off you printer and move the head manually the corner and check (hear) if the end stop switch - you can hear a click. If not adjust these switches by loosening the screws a little bit that you can move the switch nearer to the head. After you have a working end switch you should calibrate the lifting switch, which could be done via the menu on your printer. Just follow the steps there.
  4. 2 points
    The only suggestion I wanted to make is that you go for the cheapest as both types will work. As GR5 says, the old one delivers a bit more power but we as Ultimaker are not allowed to sell it anymore with new printers. The newer type is a bit more environmental friendly and will save a few cents in electricity.
  5. 2 points
    Hello @SandervG, The UMS3 was the printer I've been waiting for, but came a bit late as I purchased an UM3 a few months ago. The one feature missing on the UM3 is the filament flow sensor, and this has cost me already quite some filament on long (2 day +) prints, with the filament jamming and as a result of that being ground away without the printer knowing it has stopped feeding plastic. After some research on the forums I found that there was a project for the UM2+ with a filament flow sensor working quite nice. I also read that the initial intend was to include a filament flow sensor in the UM3 but is was scrapped during development because the results were not reliable enough. Now, a few years later both the S5 and S3 have a working filament flow sensor and I figure that the code and reliability are now up to Ultimaker’s standards So this got me wondering, since the intent was to include the sensor in the UM3, there is space for the sensor wheel, the PCB and the wiring. So does the UM3 firmware and main board have the possibility for the implementation of a filament flow sensor, and what would be necessary to do so, or is it possible to pause the print externally with a third party sensor, or just a rotary encoder (for example via an I/O input). Also now that the sensors are implemented in both the S5 and S3, the firmware for this sensor should be pretty optimized by now, but the firmware for the S5 is not yet open source (I might be wrong? couldn't find it on github), so implementing this in the UM3 firmware shouldn’t be that difficult. The only issue would be the signing of the firmware before uploading. Since I have a background in electrical engineering and writing firmware/software, implementing a filament flow sensor in the UM3 looks like a fun thing to do and I guess that there are plenty of people who would love to tinker with a flow sensor in their Ultimaker. So when/where can I find the firmware for the filament flow sensor and would it be possible to (co-)develop this into a product? With kind regards, Theodor
  6. 2 points
    When my trick didn't fix the problem then I assume the power supply is damaged and you best replace it. There are several compatible power supplies: Mean Well GS220A24-R7B is the older model Mean Well GST220A24-R7B is the current model which complies to the latest regulations regarding efficiency and EMC radiation but has a slightly stricter output capacity (the load variation range is more limited). Both models will do the job, except that companies are not allowed to sell the older model anymore for new products. You as a consumer can buy the cheapest one you can find. As reference, here in Europe the new model is sold for €63 excl. VAT.
  7. 2 points
    Well heres a quick composite i did. look similar to the S5 but a slimmer frame. Head looks different. more square. only hours to wait though. Im doing a cool print at the moment so i can wait! The build plate looks identical. Even the rods are the same distance apart....maybe lol. Touch display looks smaller though.
  8. 1 point
    When you get a sizzle sound during printing PVA, it means that your PVA spool has absorbed too much moisture from the air. PVA is very sensitive and should always stored in a dry place. Never leave your PVA spool on the printer. You can try another spool of PVA or dry your spool on the heated print bed over night. Before you print you should also clean your nozzle with some Atomic pulls.
  9. 1 point
    The water absorbtion of nylon is a kind of double-edged sword: Before printing, you don't want the material to absorb moisture. Because of the heating in the printcore, the absorbed water will create bubbles and give a bad surface, little holes and in the wors case clog your nozzle. So it's important for the priniting process to keep the nylon filament dry. After printing, the model will absorb moisture out of the air and of course when it's put into water. But this does not affect the properties of the material in a negative way. It will make your model slightly stiffer more impact resistant.
  10. 1 point
    Looking at the diamond-shapedmarking on the filament, I think the tension is OK. Gouging the filament like that is likely either that you had a nozzle jam so the filament could not advance and got ground down, or your model had too many retractions in a short area of filament.
  11. 1 point
    Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düsen und Heat-Blocks sind in Verwendung. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu konstruiert. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir immer vibrierte, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen waren im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping und Splitting mehr. veraltet (Peltier Kühlung fehlt) aktuell (mit Peltier Kühlung) 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0.005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  12. 1 point
    Maybe there are different infill patterns, or infill percentages, in which the nozzle follows a different traject with less starts and stops, and less jumps? I don't know if this is possible, but just guessing. Check this in layer view in Cura, before printing.
  13. 1 point
    First of all print towards the edge of the printer that has the best support. Secondly, print much slower as Smithy suggests. Finally - look into ways to stabilize your print bed better. Use google to see what other people have done.
  14. 1 point
    I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    You see, I've been very busy at my new job lately...I've been directly involved in this project and we finally made a grand reveal to the world 🙂 https://youtu.be/jphG9n8nUSU
  17. 1 point
    @Kakos my understanding of what you are trying to do is make a vase with, say, 2 or 3 walls, and that the prior way you did that was to model, for example, a 5mm wall but then print with zero infil causing the wall to be hollow. But that also means the wall would grow to 10mm thick if you doubled the size of the vase. Hopefully I got that right. Another way to consider is: design the vase as a solid form. Not modeling the inside surface...only the outside. slice it with 0% infill, 2 walls, however many layers (or thickness) you want for the bottom, and 0 top layers. This will print exactly 2 walls, well bonded, a bottom, and no top. It also means that even with a complex wall shape, every slice will have exactly the number of walls you specify. The “Shell” command in Fusion 360 (don’t know what it’s called in other programs) is often used to creat constant thickness walls for this kind of model, but it creates a model where the distance is constant along the normals of each oint on the surface. A simple mold, for example, with a 10 degree slope and a shell 1.6mm thick produces a thickness in the slicing planes slightly less than 1.6mm...1.576mm. This can cause it to slice with, for example 3 walls instead of 4, and then try to fill the gap as infil.
  18. 1 point
    Hi guys, I need to print an Arch project in my S5. I am wondering that will give me the best result. planning to print a .06mm layer height with 0.4 nozzle using PVA. Maybe I'ill try "Normal" if the time get absurd. I want the final model to be white and not necessarily too shiny - essentially what I have seen in the marketing material for Ultmaker arch models. @SandervG @Stefania Dinea Thank you
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Cannot work because in our direction the model just touch a bit the glass plate. Turn it around to have a thicker base on the build plate.
  21. 1 point
    chiming in on this topic - I'm currently setting up to print with the 3D Solex hardcore + Everlast ruby nozzle on the UMS5. Our reseller told me that with the CC red core, the active leveling is automatically disabled (by the firmware I suppose). Is this true? ...I'd rather have my printer be "a little less reliable" and being able to disable auto-leveling every time risking that a first layer might not be perfectly consistent, than risking the nozzle and/or build plate being cracked during leveling - this might be a risk with the ruby/sapphire insert in the nozzle, or so I'm told. I realize that I'm not doing it the way Ultimaker is "envisioning" it, e.g. using the CC core, but the issue is bigger to me than just using the 3DSolex core. best, Niklas
  22. 1 point
    Since I did adjust this for my printers beginning this year I don't have huge discrepancies anymore. +-1% instead of +30% to 40% before what means minutes instead of hours for my printers.
  23. 1 point
    You can always check whether the printer will print correctly by looking at the preview tab. In this tab you see what the printer will do. You can however be relatively sure that yellow parts will just print.
  24. 1 point
    Hello, During the years the site has been getting better and better, so this is a good evolution. But I think it could still contain a bit more diagnostics manuals and tips and tricks that come back very often in the forum. For example: - A detailed list of all existing and well working bonding methods to the glass bed: the "official" glue stick, the official glue stick + wiping it with a wet tissue to egalise it, 10% wood glue in water, hairspray, my salt method (PLA only), 3DLAC, sheets, etc... With all their advantages and disadvantages. So that people can try them, and choose the one that works best. - A detailed list of possible causes of underextrusion, like the one gr5 has (ask him if you can reuse it). - Etc..., just all the things that keep coming back on the forum.
  25. 1 point
    Nous avons pu faire des tests, donc je viens donner la réponse à ma question. Le PLA, le PETG et l'ABS ont tous les 3 fait l'affaire. ils n'ont pas bougé et ont résisté les dizaines de minute de l'expérience.
  26. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  27. 1 point
    Well the problem has been solved, but not by me. A company that specialises in printing plastic orthoses has produced exactly what was required free of charge. Photo attached. The hand model is in the middle with an orthosis to either side. The one on the left is a mesh to allow for some air circulation, the one on the right is 'solid'. Thanks to all for your ideas.
  28. 1 point
    Of course you can remove the spool holder. Simply press the two clamps together inside, then you can lift up and remove the holder at the back.
  29. 1 point
    There should be a little distance about 0.15mm. If you use a sheet of paper this is usually enough. It also doesn't matter if it is 0.15 or 0.18 or whatever. You first layer should look good and should adhere to the plate. But use a sheet of paper and level the nozzle in a way that you feel a little resistance (maybe a bit more then little) on the paper when you move the sheet. It is hard to explain, but you will get a feeling for that. If the first layer don't stick well, you have to level nearer to the plate.
  30. 1 point
    Have you checked these? - Check if the little nozzle-cooling fan at the back of the head still works? If not, or if too slow, this would cause the heat to travel up into the filament, soften it, and make it hard to get through the teflon coupler. Sometimes filament strings and hairs get sucked into it, slowing it down. - Does the feeder wheel not slip on the drive axis? Write a colored mark on both, and see if they stay aligned? I have read that this occasionally happens. - With a fine needle (with rounded edges so you don't damage the nozzle) gently and carefully poke through the nozzle? - Bad filament that is too hard to unroll near the end of the spool? This could act as a very strong spring, trying to pull the rolled-off filament back onto the spool. Also, filament with a too tight bending radius causes very high friction in the bowden tube and in the nozzle. This is why near the end of a PLA spool, I manually unroll a few meters of filament, straighten it, and roll it back onto the spool very loosely. - Bad filament with incorrect (too thick) diameter? - When manually heating the nozzle, I guess the temperature readings are okay and stable? But if you can easily push filemant through manually, it should be okay. PS: if you would like a more gently method of atomic pulls, without brutal pulling and risk of displacing nozzle-components or bending rods, you might try my method: disconnect bowden tube at front, manually heat the nozzle, manually insert and extrude some material (preferably PLA), let cool down very well until at room temp (blow compressed air to speed this up, if available), then gently wiggle and rotate the filament to dislodge dirt, heat up again to 70°C, and gently rotate while gently pulling the filament out. No brute force. For me this works equally well as the traditional atomic pulls, but it is easier on the machine. For the full manual and photos, see (and then scroll down a bit): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
  31. 1 point
    I am glad it was working for you, thanks for the feedback.
  32. 1 point
    I personally have 4 glass plates for my S5, 1 i keep as a spare should one break or chip. The other 3 i print with, 1 in the printer printing, one with the last print on cooling down to be removed and the other all clean and ready to go in the printer when the next prints done.
  33. 1 point
    Probably any of the same architecture and driver.
  34. 1 point
    There's 2 ways to fix this. One is to just turn off leveling. It's really a waste of your time as manual leveling is so simple and easy and you only have to do it when you swap out cores and usually not even then. If the nozzle levels too close usually it's because the spring in the core is weaker versus the spring in the bed. You need the core spring stronger because the leveling doesn't know you've hit the bed until it starts moving so if the core moves first then there is a problem. So loosen those 3 springs by turning the 3 knobs about 5 or 10 turns CCW (as seen from below). That might be too loose to level but try that first and do a manual level (mandatory if you move those screws that much) and then see if auto level is better after that. Don't loosen them too much. Another solution is to remove the "bad" core. Remove that one screw in the clear plastic part, take the spring out and stretch it such that it is about 5mm longer. Put it all back together and it will work great for another few years.
  35. 1 point
    Polymaker is the filament i use 90% of the time, very good quality!
  36. 1 point
    Easy, i just unroll the amount Cura tells me to use, plus an extra Mtr that goes into the bowden tube. And if you miss, the printer detects your out of filament so the print isn't ruined.
  37. 1 point
    Yeps, i personally love my S5 and hoping to get a 2nd one some time next year to ease some the printing load on my first thats running almost 24/7 all the time. I might get temped by the S3 later down the line to replace my old Flashforge Dreamer what was the first printer i got. I want to keep atlest one of my 1.75mm printers just because of the extra range of filaments you can get. Would love to see Ultimaker make a printer that supported 1.75
  38. 1 point
    Ha! @tinkergnome, we think alike!
  39. 1 point
    A printer rebooting during the build plate heating up is almost certain a power supply problem. During the first phase of heating up, till about 50C, the power supply is stretched to its limits. Since everything was working smoothly before and now not anymore, what did you change with respect to the power supply block? Did you perhaps switch the power supply block with that from another printer? Did the ambient temperature in the room change? Perhaps the power supply block gets warm because it is now in the sun or next to an active heater? When nothing was changed and none of the above questions applies, then perhaps you have a power supply block that's at the lower end of the specifications. Contact your reseller if warranty applies. There is also a software workaround when you are brave enough to change a configuration file on the printer... - Enable developer mode from the menu - Open an SSH connection to the printer - log in as root / ultimaker - type: vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json - Scroll down to line 102 - Change the maximum power supply wattage from 221 to 200 (first press the 'insert' key to be able to insert new text). - exit the editor by typing after each other the 4 keys: 'ESC : w q' - exit the SSH connection by typing: exit - reboot the printer
  40. 1 point
    I can't answer your questions about breakaway, as I never used it. But concerning PVA-regulations: if you can not legally dissolve it and flush that waste-water down the drain, then maybe you could legally pour it over old newspapers, let dry, and throw away these newspapers? Then it does not pollute rivers. Very often old paper is recycled separately, this is the preferred option. But in our city it is also allowed to throw it in the regular "rest-section" of trash, because it makes it easier to burn that rest-section. See your local regulations. Or make papier-maché from it (=mix of old paper, water and wood glue until it is a clay-like paste), and use that to mould artwork? Or let the kids make art and toys with it? (But check the skin-safety first and let them wear gloves.) This might be a temporary and legal workaround until you get the other issues solved?
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    here's the situation: Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration. Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out. After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration.. after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not have this issue. I have done a lot of tests, switching print cores(i have purchased one extra print core), and the result is the same. So i guess it is not the problem of the print cores but something is wrong with the machine doing Z calibration. And it seemd to me the machine is ignoring the Z calibration that is done in active leveling, so every time when print started, it went all the way pressing nozzle too close to bed again. Not sure if this is a firmware issue but i would like to post here to see if it shines any clues. Some other users also have this similar problem and is forced to print on one nozzle (Core 1), unless one kept doing manual leveling and forces the machine to never do auto leveling thus not to override manual leveling setting. And this seemed to happen fairly recently, so i guess it could be something about the latest firmware update.
  43. 1 point
    Nice! Glad, you nailed it down!
  44. 1 point
    I think I just solved this problem. I've been fighting with it for 3 days. I have run the compatibility troubleshooter and it has recommended Windows 8 compatibility. I now have it running. It did change some settings in my active profile which it adopted from my 4.1 config. It changed line width and speeds.
  45. 1 point
    so these settings doesn't have effect on "flow rate" at all, these are indications for the flow sensor to compensate, how to interpret what actually happens? Because it's set to 90% by default and I really like to have control over settings, but here, I'm puzzled. Your description is good, but "you "simply" pre compensate for this factor" is not clear.
  46. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    - absorbs the vector-forces => longer life for and lower noise from the printer - level the printer
  47. 1 point
    set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both! details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3 There is no auto center nor auto rotate. The clip that holds the glass down is likely to keep you from using the full size. There is a keep out zone which is shaded.
  48. 1 point
    @SandervG - structures, things you would like to highlight for sure. I wouldn’t bother with trees to be honest, one could though. Volumes are another thing, if you want to divide by function of building.Maybe I should have a colored example to see how far I can take it ?
  49. 1 point
    Dachte die Motoren werden auch mit 24V betrieben. Wenn nicht, dann darf man das natürlich nicht so zusammenrechnen. Da hast du dann recht. Aber egal. Ich kauf mir um ein paar € so einen Leistungsmesser und werde einfach das originale Netzteil weiter verwenden. Das Netzteil wird ja nicht kaputt gehen, wenn der Verbraucher mehr Watt ziehen will, als dass das Netzteil ausgelegt ist? Es wird einfach nicht mehr als 221 Watt hergeben? Oder liege ich da falsch? Und wenn der Leistungsmesser dann 221 Watt anzeigt, weiß man, dass es über dem Limit ist und eigentlich mehr Leistung benötigt wird --> Dann kauf ich mir ein 2. Netzteil mit Mosfetschaltung. Dann kann ich auch verschiedene Situationen anschauen; z.B. wie viel Watt der Drucker beim Aufheizen mit gehaltenen Motoren zieht - also den Extremfall.
  50. 1 point
    Doesn't seem available right now but I found it here on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gyro-the-dodo-ultimaker-special
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