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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    In times of Corona and the call #stayathome, we thought we would become more self-sufficient to avoid shopping. So I had the following idea, where my Ultimaker S5 supported me a lot and, as always, provided me with very good services and results. You wouldn't believe how versatile such a 3D printer can be. But pictures say more than words: 1.) Set the bed temp to 27°C 2.) Put the bowl with the bread dough into the printer and let the dough rise for one hour 3.) Put the dough in a basket and let him again raise for some time: 4.) Final product after the S5 finished his work and before baking 5.) And here die final result after baking - perfect! I've always known that you can do a lot of things with a 3D printer, but I never thought it would be so versatile and can also be used for baking. 🙂 In this context, stay healthy and stay at home.
  2. 3 points
    So we received a jigsaw puzzle from my wife's twin sister to work on while self isolating. She did advise us that she thought there was a piece missing, and sure enough there was. With that as a challenge, I photographed the missing piece of the puzzle, brought it into SolidWorks and vectorized it using "Sketch Picture", extruded it to 0.080" (2mm) sent it to Cura and in turn sent to my UM3. My wife then painted it to perfection and "Voila" the lighthouse was restored. Now I'm just looking for the next project.
  3. 3 points
    The COVID-19 virus has a firm grip on our world, and its effects are undeniably impactful. Significant pain points are starting to surface in the medical world, where the amount of people who need help increases, but the supply and distribution of tools and equipment has a hard time keeping up. At Ultimaker we recognised this as an opportunity to help, activate our network and utilise the disrupting power that local manufacturing can have. Through this post we would like to share some of the things we have already done so far and some tips that might help you to help others. What have we done so far From our experience up until this point it seems there is a high demand and a lot of good intentions, but in between these two forces we still need to identify how 3D printing can be put to best use. Unfortunately, not everything that hospitals need can be equally easily 3D printed. Luckily, sometimes even an easier solution is just around the corner. The experts on team Ultimaker together with medical professionals are helping to identify where 3D printing can help, or what accessible alternatives are available from a vibrant network of (professional) makers. Here are some examples we’ve come across so far: Face shields. (Single use, very large quantities) The city of New York was tasking the industry to first deliver more face shields for intake and test staff at hospitals — in the thousands. We helped them by printing a face plate in the New Lab 3D Print Lab, while also being supportive of the team cutting the face plates with cnc routers. With Bednark, the company with the many routers and faceplate material, we all identified a reasonable and viable route just using foam and faceplate material — a route that would reach the 10k desired pieces by the end if the week. Additive manufacturing was validated as a secondary option but considered not fast enough for such a large batch and not as comfortable to the face as a foam strip. Additive manufacturing solutions are considered for other projects. Protective masks (reuse required, medium quantities) The priority for hospitals is protective masks for closer physical proximity to COVID-19 patients. There are a lot of designs but no unanimous agreement. A large group of industrial designers are using 3D printing trying to get closer to a conclusion in discussion with many hospital staff members. This is a candidate of additive manufacturing, but the exact solutions we’re still working towards. Right now none of the existing designs have been deemed safe enough, a good enough fit, nor nimble enough for what doctors need moving fast. It’s a work in progress for which we are committed to reach a conclusion. The New Lab 3D Print Lab is ready to run validation prints and quantities in hundreds this week when a good design is found and validated by NYC hospitals. And when we reach that benchmark, other local hubs and localized manufactures (like Voodoo manufacturing) could makes thousands as a stop gap until other processes deliver. Ventilators (reuse required, mechanical solution, lower quantities acceptable). The main project right now seems to be the MIT project. Most of the medical contact parts are being water-jetted and CNC’d from medical grade plastics. The 3D Print lab stands ready and available for all prototyping, but the key issue to solve are electronics quantity and firmware and some sewn parts. Other medical parts for hospitals: (emergency parts with size/fit interface requirements but low sterilization or quantity requirements possible) As functioning mask files are not confirmed yet, the New Lab 3D Print Lab has reverted to close to original aim for initiative: as a read printing hub for hospital emergency parts directly instead of supporting government of city of New York. These are all AM opportunities. We’ve also been in touch with numerous medical professionals and institutions, testing and validating various designs in different applications. This will be an ongoing work in progress with new designs entering the field. Due to risks and liabilities we can’t share these results yet, but we hope to share them at a later stage. Including a list of materials which are best suited for certain applications and the specific requirements they might have. How to help others If you are on our map of available 3D printing hubs (if you’re not yet, you can by filling out this form), it is possible a hospital or other medical facility can reach out to you asking support in either designing or printing a certain tool or application. The following questions or considerations can help you zoom in where additive manufacturing can really help and where, truth be told, we probably shouldn’t. Despite the urgent need and enthusiasm to help; not every request is equally suitable or 3D printing. If you receive a request, ask yourself at least these things: Is the request approved by, or did it come from a medical professional? Our willingness to help could overshadow potential health-risks we ‘common folks’ are not aware of and we should be sure that any help we provide is actually helpful. When in doubt, feel free to reach out to us and experts in our network can advise. Is 3D printing the best manufacturing method for this application? This may often be the case, but not always. In our attempt to help we must find the balance between what production method is best suited, and what capacity is available on short term. Does the application require specific material properties? Make sure to validate with the medical professional who requests your help which material you should use, or which properties it must have before you start 3D printing. If you attempt to print with materials that are new to you, familiarize yourself with potential emissions and adhesives before you start, and take the necessary precautions. Can you print under sufficiently sanitary conditions? Think of allergens that may spread from pets when printing from home, and think of your own health. If you are feeling ill, stay isolated and get well first. When all the above checks out; do you have sufficient 3D print capacity? Feel free to involve other hubs in your local area to assist. Depending on which surfaces or fluids a 3D print is in contact with, it may not be useful for repetition or longer periods of time due to the coarse surface of an FDM print. Keep this in mind when you discuss certain applications or your choice of materials. Our experts, together with medical experts and institutions are working on making a list of materials and instructions which can be sterilized, and which can be used at certain grades of medical appliances. We will share this as soon as it is validated and complete. If you have any questions, feel free to write them below or reach out to us directly. Thank you for your time and stepping up to help others in this time of need. Together we can make a difference. And stay safe!
  4. 3 points
    That definition is a bit dinky, but it works I guess. It should have an extruder definition, but that's a topic for a different discussion. Add the following lines below the line that has the "chamber_temperature" in it (line 106): "default_material_print_temperature": { "maximum_value": "450" }, "material_print_temperature": { "maximum_value": "450" }, "material_print_temperature_layer_0": { "maximum_value": "450" }, "material_initial_print_temperature": { "maximum_value": "450" }, "material_final_print_temperature": { "maximum_value": "450" }, "material_standby_temperature": { "maximum_value": "450" }, Obviously, if you want another maximum value than 450, change that value.
  5. 3 points
    Say you stumble upon a party. Well, stumbled upon... you've been hearing about this nice recurring family thing from your friends; they hand out this nice apple pie there. Completely free, very nice pie. Friendly folks... You have a good time. Couple weeks later, you come back expecting great pie again. For free ofcourse. Turns out they've put some more cinnamon in their pie. Because lots of people said their pie was better with lots of cinnamon, and these cinnamon lovers even put up youtube videos about how to add cinnamon to the pie. Problem is, many people got cinnamon in their nose when eating this modded apple pie, and cinnamon up your nose isn't all that great. Because it is much better to bake the cinnamon into the pie, the friendly family starts to do just that: add more cinnamon to the pie before baking. You know, as a nice gesture to all those guests who came in asking why there is not more cinnamon in their pie. Problem is: some people like the original pie better. Do you think it is a good idea to break down the door of the nice family and scream from the top of your lungs "What did you do?! YOUR PIE IS COMPLETE GARBAGE!". Do you think the family is inclined to give you more pie? What I am trying to say: you come across a bit rude and ungrateful.
  6. 3 points
    Wanted a power socket on my TONONE reading light. So I made one. Colorfabb color on demand PLA. Added a little piece of ninjaflex for friction against rotation.
  7. 3 points
    All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725
  8. 3 points
    That's not how Union overlapping volumes works. It's a bit hard to explain, but here we go. Union Overlapping Volumes is meant to solve problems inside a single mesh, not the interaction between two meshes. If you have two mesh files than their interaction is governed by Remove Mesh Intersection. There is no option to union, because the two meshes might have different settings in the per-object settings menu. If you want to union them you could export those two models as a single STL file and import that again. Then the overlap is within the same model and the Union Overlapping Volumes dos its magic 😉
  9. 2 points
    Dear Tiago, Thank you for your message. Our apologies if any of our resellers did not live up to your expectations. It sounds like you have a rather unpleasant experience. Please allow us to look into this and we'll get back in touch with you shortly.
  10. 2 points
    Did you download and try the burtoogle version? That will solve all your problems. I feel like I'm talking but you're not listening. Sorry - it's a little frustrating when I get the same question 10 times and 9 people try my answer and are like "that's amazing" and then the tenth person seems to ignore me. 1) I'm not sure if you know what 25 cubic mm means. It's a volume. If it is a perfect cube then it would be 2.9mm on a side. Is that what you were trying to say? I'm not sure what you mean. 2) So you printed a 25mm cube and then another 25mm cube and one is perfect and one is 25.4? I don't get it. 3) "additional .4mm is my nozzle width" - okay so this is a common thing for people to worry about. If you slice a solid 25mm cube and your line width is 0.4mm, cura is smart - it knows that the lines of filament will stick outside the nozzle by 0.2mm all around so it shrinks all the walls inwards by .2mm which should result in 23.6mm of movement in the gcode and a 24mm cube. The people who wrote cura are pretty damn smart. Now if your cube is hollow it also steps inward (into the wall) for the inner walls. So if you have a hollow cube with 3mm thick walls, cura knows to attempt to print them thinner than that. 4) So what you see in the third diagram you show? That's fixed in the burtoogle version of cura. The official cura release doesn't do thin walls great. Burtoogle version has some nice fixes for thin walls. 5) What you show in the first photo - Cura can't do that - the way it thinks about inside and outside - it just can't do that. Sorry. People (including me) have been asking for that for about 6 years now. Programmers say it's not going to happen. Some day it will happen but don't hold your breath. Actually there is a mode called "vase mode" that can do what you show in the first photo - but the way you do that is a hack. You first give cura A *solid* model with the inside filled in solid. Than choose vase mode and it will just do one pass around the outer wall just like you want. You have to set the line width to how thick you want the walls and even if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you can do 0.8mm walls if that's what you tell cura to do but cura will do it in one pass.
  11. 2 points
    Salut, Voici la version que j'imprime. C'est basé sur le modèle PRUSA rc3 et j'ai modifié pour la fixation d'un élastique 3M avec des clips à pressions. J'imprime en filament Colorfabb HT ce qui permet de faire une pièce que l'on peux passer dans l'eau bouillante. J'ai fais des test avec l'élastique il tient bien à la chaleur aussi. j'arrive à en sortir 10 par jour. j'ai des demandes dans mon village pharmacie centre d'analyse infirmière...
  12. 2 points
    Hi, When the UM3 came to market with it's hot-swappable print-cores I was eagerly waiting for the first custom functionality through print cores, but it appears not much has happened yet. I finally had a good project to justify spending some time to build a vinyl cutter core. We took apart an off the shelf Roland Blade holder that turned out to have all kinds of interesting bits and pieces and combined it with an Ultimaker core using a printed adapter: The plan is to use it in combination with the SVGToolpathReader Cura plugin. It has some advantages over traditional roller plotters especially when dealing with sensitive materials. Of course this could also be extended to bring back the pen plotter. We are still working through some last issues (mostly involved with tricking the printer) and hope to have first cuts this week. Would anyone be interested in this solution? I am planning to release the models on Youmagine. Would anyone be interested in buying pre-assembled units if it is a plug-and-play solution? Regards, Joris
  13. 2 points
    Thanks for the offer. I am testing now. The hospital has the first five masks, and I'm awaiting feedback.
  14. 2 points
    One more time. Slow. Ultimaker depends on community members to make profiles for 3rd party printers. Since you are not even saying what printer you use, and you seem to be unwilling to even help test changes to be made to Cura so they are included in the next version, I am afraid you are going to be using Cura 4.4.1 for a while.
  15. 2 points
    Hi guys! I'd like to share my new work! I printed a batch of parts with white PLA and assembled them into several scale models of houses. I will use these models in visual planning of residential development. For this job, I used a Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer.
  16. 2 points
    Hi All, I have very little experience with 3d printing, However our NHS will be hitting crisis point with an increase in coronavirus related deaths due to respiratory issues. One thing that has been mentioned by the British Government is that the UK's NHS will run out of precious ventilators. The government has asked for various engineering companies to retool but that is easier said than done. However we as 3d printer owners can produce very complex printed items in hours. I know this is a long shot but surely we can help in some way. Again I need the community to help with this I have very little experience but want this to work. I'm more than happy for my printer to be used round to clock for the benefit of our vulnerable citizens, I can start a crowd funder to help us and this is purely non profit. But also this project should be made open source as it should be passed to the rest of humanity. As I understand it a ventilator basically increases the respiration rate of a patient struggling. it can do this via pressure flow and increased oxygen saturation. All these requirements etc and more can be handled by a raspberry pie, motor or actuator, bellows and housing. I do not have face book etc so I need everyone out there to get their feelers out and find anyone who can help us. please pass this on and see where we can get it. I need ideas and more importantly criticism. My Email is jateu01@googlemail.com Many thanks for your help and time. James
  17. 2 points
    just water and soap... but only after many prints... and I mostly use a super small amount of glue-stick spread with a moist paper towel. I also sometimes scrape the glass-plate when its dirty from to much glue, while still in the printer, with a glass knive, and then reapply a thin layer of glue, or just use a moist paper towel without adding new glue. This really is my nr1 tool.
  18. 2 points
    The 'Factory Reset' setting in the touchscreen menus seems to have done the trick thankfully. First try the machine auto-leveled properly. I'l come back and say if the problem comes back, but for now I'll assume it was a successful resolution. Thank you for the help
  19. 2 points
    Actually I am currently working on some features to automatically generate interlocking structures for making TPU-PLA bond better. Currently a good strategy might be to just model the models with an overlap. Cura already generates an alternating structure where the layers of TPU and PLA are interwoven within the region covered by both models. I'm not 100% sure what you mean by 'strong slicing'. Are you referring to the problem that the Tough PLA is inside the hole and outside the model, but it is disconnected from each other? Any criteria to take into account for generating the best kind of interlocking are welcome!!
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    one of the only few slicers that host the definitions of so many printers, Its also pretty powerful , on par with paid ones like simplify3D.
  23. 2 points
    You cannot do that via a variant file. The cfg files can only have values; for the definition of a setting, you need to use the .def.json. You could use a Python expression in your printer or extruder definition like this: "default_material_print_temperature": { "minimum_value_warning": "0", "maximum_value_warning": "230", "maximum_value": "300 if machine_nozzle_size == 0.4 else 235", "minimum_value": "0" } Ofcourse you'll most likely want to use something else than the machine_nozzle_size to detect this particular variant.
  24. 2 points
    Bath interferometers. I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors. They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester. These can test to almost 1/1000 of a wavelength of light although having the mirror within 1/10 of a wave is more than good enough. Basically anything in the photo you suspect is 3d printed - is 3d printed. The screwdriver is not and the tripod that holds it is not. Everything else plastic is 3d printed. Mostly PLA, some parts on the interferometer itself are nylon as they need to bend. 3 nylon parts you can see in the zoomed in version - sticking up the highest (not the knob which is higher I suppose) is the nylon lens holder, the cube holder also and the mirror holder which has a spherical pocket that goes around that sphere on the post. I've made quite a few of these and I keep tweaking the design. The original design is not mine but got it from thingiverse.
  25. 1 point
    Hello! First time poster here. Sorry if my title isn't very descriptive, I've having a hard time describing my issue. I've been working on adapting my 3D printer into a pen plotter. It's been working pretty well, but I'm having an issue at the beginning of plotting where the printer extruder does the X, Y, and Z movements all the same time. The problem here is that the Z movement typically completes before the X and Y, which causes the pen to draw some undesired lines on the paper. I had the same issue at the end of prints, but I was able to fix it by adding in gcode that makes the extruder z-hop after finishing printing. However, this does not work at the beginning of prints, as it z-hops and then starts the print in the same way. Ideally, the printer would move into the proper XY position, and then start its descent. Anyone have any idea how to do this? Some gcode I can put at the beginning of the print or something? Appreciate it.
  26. 1 point
    I use generic ABS and ultimaker TPU and it works like a charm, It has probably done a switchover at least a dozen or more times. The ends have had bends and there was no Ill effect.
  27. 1 point
    Hi all, First of all, I hope everyone is safe and sound! These are bizarre times, and a lot of people need help. At Ultimaker we also took notice and we formalised a plan that we feel allows us to help as much people as possible by doing what we do best; collaborating and local manufacturing. Through this post I would like to further explain what we are doing, and what you could be doing. Coronavirus: Let’s do our part. The COVID-19 virus is affecting many lives and is putting a lot of strain on the medical supplies and infrastructure. This is generating a demand for spare parts which, understandably, can not be obtained in sufficient quantities from the original suppliers. Ultimaker believes, with our network and expertise we can help by: Connect medical institutions and hospitals to (local) 3D Printing hubs to help them print parts of which a 3D model already exists Contribute to design the necessary part, and then have it printed via a (local) 3D printing hub. Experts are available from within Ultimaker and from within our network of 3D printing experts. It is important to note that this help is intended only to relieve immediate shortages under these very exceptional circumstances the (medical) word is facing, and 3D printed parts should be replaced by the original spare parts as soon as possible. What can you do? We have created a form that helps us to map whoever is capable and willing to help. If you have proficient CAD modelling skills, and/or you have an Ultimaker 3D printer available; please fill out this form. Please note that if you want to offer help you have to start at #16 With the input that we receive we will create a map with all available resources and we will use to connect those who need help, with those who can provide it. The map will be publicly available, so it is possible that you are being approached directly by (local) hospitals. Alternatively, when we receive a request that matches your availability, we will create a connection. This is a direct link to the live map When you fill out the form you might notice that we only ask which Ultimaker 3D printers you have. Why only Ultimaker 3D printers? Obviously, the more the merrier and anyone who can help, should. Within our attempt to help we provide CAD support and we can provide specific 3D printing guidelines for the best results. Some of our application engineers and other experts are available to provide such guidelines and support, but our experience is limited to our own Ultimaker printers. Our expert advice would not automatically match other existing systems. Luckily, other initiatives exist where you can help if you don’t own an Ultimaker. Here are a few other initiatives that you could sign up for if you don’t own an Ultimaker or if you want to do more: - https://www.projectopenair.org/ - https://projectopenair.nl/ - https://helpwithcovid.com - https://hackquarantine.com Together, we can make a difference and we can help those that are in need. If you have the time and resources to help, please fill out the form. Thank you so much for your time, and if you have any questions, please write them below.
  28. 1 point
    Rebooting the group host printer has made the firmware update notice go away on the 2nd printer in the group.
  29. 1 point
    @gr5 You da man! I printed it with your settings and everything is within .02 mm. THANKS!
  30. 1 point
    Added my company. With almost 18 years CAD experience and 15 years of product design experience, I hope I can be of assistance. I do have and Ultimaker 2 Extended + with Mark2 but I'm no expert at it.
  31. 1 point
    Gr5 = Yes, it seems to maybe have been an issue with the Mark2 stuff. I have printed this part and another quite well now. No popping or sizzling at all. I have heard it just a bit from my PVA so I know what you mean. "Only done a 100 or so prints with CPE" LOL Only. LOL 🙃 I have old PLA as well and it is so stiff and brittle I wondered if running it through the dehydrator would help? MechDesigner = Thanks for the feedback. I do use skirt when I have a large flat bottom already printing on the bed and not that tall of a part. Just something to verify the flatness and purge the nozzle a little more. But definitely a brim for the skinnier and taller stuff. (like I'm doing now) I'm trying to perfect the .4mm nozzle technique because I have a couple of Everlast Jeweled nozzles I would like to use. For now the problem looks like it has subsided mostly. I printed out a temp test tower and found 260 to be my best temp. That and updating Cura to the proper Mark2 info I think got me going in the right direction. Pictures are reversed because I cant figure out why it won't let me put them in MY order and not the order IT wants.......
  32. 1 point
    Large companies aren't trying to stop us printing medical equipment - they are trying to stop people from copying their designs. If we want to print some valves we should design our own valves and optimize them for 3D printing. That way we don't infringe on copyright and we should end up with better printed valves anyhow. I'm not sure whether 3D printed valves are very sanitary, though. The tiny ridges of the layers can accumulate dust and bacteria.
  33. 1 point
    I think I'll stick to Simplify3d, I made the changes you advised and still no avail.... The only problem with Simplify is it can have finicky slices, where a wall will print perfectly with one model and not another. Perhaps these could be some of the model designs as well?
  34. 1 point
    well, a missing comma here and there can ruin your day... 🙂 There are validator tools for json-files (https://jsonlint.com/ for example). It's a quick check and can save you hours sometimes. Good luck!
  35. 1 point
    i had a similar problem and PRISMA3D's solution SOLVED it... although i just renamed the 'qtshadercache' folder to 'REMOVED-qtshadercache' so i could go back to original name if the problem wasn't fixed
  36. 1 point
    You have to look further than the end of your nose. "Configure Cura" actually opens the preference window. This is the "Preferences" I was talking about. In the preferences, there is a "Printers" section. In the Printers section, there is a way to open the "Machine Settings" dialog. In that dialog, there is a checkbox to indicate whether the configured printer has a heated bed or not.
  37. 1 point
    Simply use an overlapping "modifier mesh" and select a different extruder for it. If you don't want to model your own, you can "misuse" the support blocker mesh like shown in this video (just select the other extruder instead of modifying any settings):
  38. 1 point
    I've contacted my reseller, but I'm outside of any return policy they offer. I've been working with Ultimaker technicians to figure this out. The respooling is a mystery to everyone, but when dis-assembling the Material Station, I saw a wire for the respooling function had some torn insulation, so maybe that's the issue? I re-seated that connection anyway, but haven't been able to print a job to see if that solved anything (Still getting ER56 when I try to use the Material Station). While the Material Station was taken apart, I disconnected and then reconnected all of the RFI readers, which seems to have resolved the detecting issue. The PVA was put into the Material Station brand new. I now suspect the original packaging for that roll was compromised. I'm going to try a new roll of PVA when I get the Material Station back and running. And we don't change material often. Extruder 2 is almost exclusively PVA, while Extruder 1 is 80% Tough PLA, 15% TPU, and about 5% experimental (PC, UltraFuse, Nylon). I'd say we do 2-3 material changes a week. I've arranged with the technicians to have the Material Station sent in for maintenance. I still get an ER56, even after unclogging the merger points (Which did, in fact, have broken PVA wedged in there)
  39. 1 point
    I have no specific fan, but NOCTUA has silent fans in all sizes.
  40. 1 point
    Building on top of what @nallath says, based on customer research we have found that authentication in the local network using a simple username/password simply doesn't cut it. Using Ultimaker Cloud (https://mycloud.ultimaker.com), any UM3 or newer benefits from (a currently basic) form of account-based authentication and team sharing. This is the place that we'll extend with more elaborate access control functionality that fits better with the growing B2B customer profile (but still keep it usable for individuals as well). I also strongly recommend against exposing the printer's local web server to the public internet in any form. If a 0-day exploit is discovered in any of the 3rd party software running on the printer your printer becomes an entrypoint into your entire network. Instead use Ultimaker Cloud and put the printer in a separate (virtual) subnet to block any local access. The connection between the printer and Ultimaker Cloud is securely initiated from the printer and encrypted as well as all G-codes being sent to it from Cura, giving you end-to-end security. In the near future we plan on expanding the Ultimaker Cloud feature set so that the local web interface of Connect can be entirely ignored or shielded off as explained above.
  41. 1 point
    Yes, well if you had read the README file you would know that the PI 4 doesn't support the Open GL version required for the full layer display. * Due to the version of OpenGL that is supported, the layer display is limited to compatibility mode. * Also due to the legacy OpenGL support, the new "orientate selected face downwards" feature is not available.
  42. 1 point
    I think the basic idea is excellent, and worth trying out. But maybe an optical sensor or mechanical switch might be more reliable? I would fear that a thermal switch could cause false alarms, e.g. when printing hot and slow without cooling fan, so there is no airflow. Then it might get too hot and trip. Or it might miss real leaks when printing fast, cool and with full cooling fan, if the air blows directly on the sensor, and it cools the outer shell of the leaking plastic too fast. Such a sensor should never give false alarms and abort a good print, nor miss real events: that will be the most difficult point, I think.
  43. 1 point
    Merged! It will be in 4.6. Thanks for the ideas and contributions.
  44. 1 point
    Hallo Harry Der UM2+ hat keinen Filamentsensor, sprich wenn die Spule leer wird, bekommt er das nicht mit und druckt einfach leer ohne Filament weiter. Ein manuelles Pausieren (oder auch über den GCode) ist möglich und du kannst in dieser Pause das Filament wechseln, allerdings nicht den Kopf bewegen (die Stepper Motoren sind an). Er macht auch kein Homing nach der Pause, d.h. es ist sogar wichtig, dass sich der Kopf nicht bewegen lässt. Trotzdem kann ich dir den UM2+ sehr empfehlen, ein toller Drucker der dir sicher viel Freude bereiten wird. Der Filamentsensor ist meiner Meinung nach überbewertet. Ich habe ihn im S5 drinnen, wirklich gebraucht habe ich ihn erst 2x und da habe ich bewusst eine Restspule eingelegt. Was ich damit sagen will, es ist nett wenn einer vorhanden ist, aber als Showstopper würde ich das nicht sehen.
  45. 1 point
    Isn't that a great example for why only one unit should be used? No conversion, no catastrophe. Out of interest, what 3d printer has that option?
  46. 1 point
    Ahh vielen Dank, das hilft auf jeden Fall schonmal weiter. M18 S0 hatte ich zwischenzeitlich auch entdeckt, hat aber nicht geklappt. M18 S999 schon, allerdings waren dann auch alle Stepper eingeschaltet, selbst dann wenn ein M18 E folgt. hm blöd. Dafür kann ein G28 Z helfen wenn man doch aus versehen die Z Achse verschiebt, genügend Platz vorausgesetzt, wird die Achse damit einfach nochmal auf den Nullpunkt gefahren sodass folgende Höhenangaben wieder stimmen. Das schon gedruckte darf halt nicht im Weg von dem waagerechten Rahmenteil sein. Mit Kraft geht das Filament schon raus auch ohne den Stepper zu drehen. Ich versuchs mal weiter, ein eigenes Pause script für den Ender + SilentBoard könnt sich vllt lohnen da andere anscheinend auch Schwierigkeiten haben. Mal sehen. Hier mal der vorläufige gcode ;script: PauseAtHeight.py ;current layer: 3 M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction G1 F1500 E-30 ;retract 30mm G1 F300 Z1.48 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way G1 F9000 X20 Y20 G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm M104 S200 ; standby temperature M18 S999 ; disable stepper timeout -> steppers keep enabled M18 E ; disable stepper E ; not working :( M0 ; Do the actual pause G28 Z ; optional: home Z again M109 S200 ; resume temperature G1 F300 Z1.48 G1 F9000 X125.977 Y98.291 G1 F300 Z0.48 ; move back down to resume height G1 F1500 ; restore extrusion feedrate M82 ; switch back to absolute E values
  47. 1 point
    Hi Everyone I'm Evo... For FLASHFORGE printer User sometime I frustrated for "How I can use CURA for my Flashforge Printer?" CURA is a wonderful Sclier and many people use CURA as their main slicer. Somehow I might figure out How to Use CURA for Flashforge 3D Printer I believe many of us who own Flashforge 3D printer and Ultimaker product want to use only one slicer software only for both machine So I would like to share My finding here and hopefully wonderful Cura-Ultimaker community can work together with workable CURA for Flashforge 3D printer So here is setting and Finding on the attachment. in this case I use Flashforge Guider IIS Not perfect but I think it's a good start to improve the code. I believe we can still do Coding in CURA custom code. but I'm not really familier with it. Flashforge with CURA V1.pdf box.stl
  48. 1 point
    Hi ... last week I had a similar problem with the appimage of Cura 4.0 in linux mint 19. I solved it as follows: In ~ / .cache folder, there's a cache called: 'qtshadercache', delete that folder, restart Cura and everything went back to normal. I hope it has helped you ... Greetings!
  49. 1 point
    You can't. You can install a plugin that will let you scale a loaded model by 25.4 (from inches to mm), but there is no way to have Cura work in mm (nor any other unit of length other than mm).
  50. 1 point
    I think I figured it out. Cura 4.0.0 now has a new feature where you can select different number of cooling fans. I looked at the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 and the gcode from cura 4.0.0. I noticed the M106 command was exported as M106 S255 P1. I compared this to the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 which just had M106 S255. I first tried to modify the gcode to have M106 S255 P0, AND THAT WORKED Later in my investigation I noticed in the "Machine Settings" under "Extruder 1", there is a new setting called "Cooling Fan Number", by default it was set to 1, hence the "P1" reference in the gcode. Change the option under "Cooling Fan Number" from 1 to 0. After that I saw cura exported the gcode as before M106 S255. I popped in sd card and it seemed to solve my issue. I am sure maybe in the Marlin configuration you could change the fan number as well but this seemed to fix my issue. Hope this helps!
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