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Showing most liked content since 02/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    Especially for you, here's the post again, so you can give it a second like: Yay, picking is working:
  2. 17 points
  3. 6 points
    Some photos of my plated print 10mins before i ruined it lol. replating now...not going great....hmmm fun with lighting.....
  4. 5 points
    You can also group objects. Objects that are in the same group are never pushed apart. So; 1. Select the two objects 2. Right click; group objects (or ctrl+g) 3. Use ctrl click to select a single object inside the group and move it to the position you want.
  5. 5 points
  6. 4 points
    Just thought I would share the cabinet we made at work for our Ultimakers. The cabinet can store up to 6 Ultimaker 2s (less if you have the extended versions), has room for 64 boxes of filament (we use ColorFabb mostly), sealed and temperature controlled, and has pull out shelves for easy access. It wasn't cheap and its very heavy but its a lot nicer and cleaner than the wire rack we were using before.
  7. 4 points
    Tu pars sur une Form 2 Lekid ? Si oui ça donne de bon résultat LoL
  8. 3 points
    I've previously posted some of my jewelry designs that I made using a program that I'm writing in OpenSCAD and that I printed on my UM2GO. I've printed over 60 of them in PLA so far. This is the first one I've converted to metal. It was cast using the lost wax casting process, but using a 3D print instead of hand-carved wax. Although I have done several successful casts using PLA (like the bronze bust in my profile pic), I decided to use castable resin for this piece. This resin has several advantages over PLA for casting. I have access to a Form 2 printer and casting equipment at the local community college, and I used them to print and cast this piece. After casting this pendant in sterling silver, I used liver of sulfur to give it an antique-looking patina and increase the contrast. It is 45 mm long (about 1 7/8 inches), and contains more than an ounce of silver. The second photo shows the pendant with the original PLA prototype printed on my UM2GO. I like to print the prototypes bigger to make it easier to see the details in the design. I've made over 100 pieces of jewelry in the past 4 years, using a wide variety of materials and methods. This is my favorite so far. This is the first of a series that I think I'm going to call "Fossils of Planet Phaeton".
  9. 3 points
    I had posted on a few other threads about issues that ultimately were related to feeder wheel slipping/grinding/just not keeping up. So, I thought I'd just post a new thread... After lots of frustration with another print failing and having to lower speeds so that the extruder could keep up I finally got around to installing the DDG Kit on my UM3E. I had been apprehensive about the firmware tweaks due to some issues that others had posted. HOLY COW! What an improvement! I had been lowering speeds to about 40mm/sec with the stock extruder and still getting slippage from time to time. After installing the bondtech I'm printing at 80mm/sec with none of the underextrusion issues that I had experienced before. I'll experiment some more to see just how fast I can go. Especially looking forward to the improved results with flex filament. The hardware swap out was super easy. The firmware edits using "Putty" were really very simple. I hit a few snags but they were all because I wasn't patiently and carefully following the instructions (or my careless typos in the command line :-P) Anyhoo.... If you're hesitating, Don't. Ultimaker should be selling machines with bondech feeders as an option. Just like the olsson block. The Bondtech feeder is clearly superior to the stock feeder.
  10. 3 points
    Carbon fiber filaments certainly do damage the knurled wheel on the Ultimaker machines, I have photos somewhere but I can not locate them right now. Anyway you will see wear already after a kilo and after 2 kilos you are likely to start getting feeding problems if the spring is on the default 50% setting, 4 kilos and it will be really worn. A hardened bondtech type feeder wheel lasts more like 20 kg or so before it needs to be replaced.
  11. 3 points
    I've been printing with colorFabb's new PA-CF Low Warp material recently to understand it's potential for strong, end-use parts, and to understand the settings required to get the best result. These two prints are produced using it, the lever is a direct copy of one of the "showcase" prints used by MarkForged to show what their printers are capable of (I believe it's a Ducati brake lever) which I produced so that I could compare a UM-produced "composite" print vs the MarkForged version. The connecting pipe is my own design with a few elements of Design for Additive Manufacturing (DfAM) added in to eliminate any overhangs, and hence need for support. Both parts were printed at 0.15mm layer height, using a 0.4mm Olsson Ruby nozzle on a UM2+ at 260 degC, which is at the limit of the hot end on this machine but is at the bottom end of the recommended print temperature window of 260-280deg C. For that reason I ran at 75% of my normal print speed to keep the temperature maintained, together with a 35% fan speed and 105% material flow setting. My first attempts with this material had issues with interlayer adhesion, these settings appear to have fixed that. The material is supposed to print on a cold bed, but I have found that using a 40deg C bed temperature works well (after spending working for 4 years 3D printing with a heated bed suddenly printing with it turned it off seems hard to come to terms with!). The material lives up to it's name because even over a 6 hour print there is no warping evident, and the material prints without any hissing, popping or spitting that you often get with PA/Nylon materials - the material has only been stored in a sealed bag with dessicant since I first opened it around five weeks ago - no drybox has been used. I'm really pleased with the results, both parts are very, very strong and I chose to use multiple shells (20 on the lever and 10 on the pipe) rather than use an infill, which seems to have been successful. The appearance of the pipe is especially good, the black matt surface really does disguise the layer lines, and gives the part a more "moulded" rather than 3D printed look to it. So how did the lever compare to the MarkForged? The MF part was exceptionally stiff and did have an advantage over this part in that respect, but then how often do you really need something with that kind of ultimate stiffness? I have to say that the MarkForged printers are very well made, easy to use and produce exceptional parts, but they do have a narrow area of focus and specialism. These latest prints have bought it home to me how versatile a UM printer can be - it can be producing artistic prints one day, and the next exceptionally strong, engineering-grade, end-use parts. Big respect to Ultimaker printers for their ability to cope with so many different materials and print reliably using them, and to companies like colorFabb for producing some exceptional filaments to keep on extending their capabilities even further!
  12. 3 points
    Dear diary, Today I won at internet
  13. 3 points
    We get a lot of questions about this actually. We use about 7/8ths of the nozzle size in Ultimaker's printers because adjacent lines tend to adhere better together then. Because the nozzle is a bit wider, the adjacent line gets partially printed on top of the previous line. 7/8ths of the nozzle size seems to be the sweet spot (so we also use 0.7mm lines for 0.8mm nozzles). This works completely different for different nozzle designs, so if you have a different sort of nozzle then the sweet spot will probably be somewhere else.
  14. 3 points
    This sounds like a use case for the "Maximum Resolution" setting - it's in the "Experimental" section of the custom settings. According to the tooltip it does exactly what you describe.
  15. 3 points
    I finally got the skid with the heat exchangers printed. This is the raw print with just a bit of cleanup needed to make it right. It does have some really tight details though This thing pushed the limits of the UM3X buildplate size. I actually had to bring it inside a few times because even though the images in Cura showed it inside the available areas, it would not let me print. Sigh....more space...more space....click heels 3 times and say, "There is no place like more space...." Edit: Oh yeah...thanks to @korneel and @tinkergnome for the assist with the UM PVA. It has a very nice crystalline quality that support tiny stuff very well. Just takes forever to get the alien snot out of tight areas.
  16. 3 points
    now some photos of it polished...lol I went a bit overboard on the photos, but I have some interesting results... Thats it for this one, moving on to the next...
  17. 3 points
    I have found Rustoleum, Duplicolor and Krylon brands to be very good. Google translate: J'ai trouvé que les marques Rustoleum, Duplicolor et Krylon étaient très bonnes.
  18. 3 points
    How\'s about one of the engineers who has to figure how the thing should actually be put together....where things go, how thick walls should be, where are the plugs, What are limitations on buildplates and heating them etc?
  19. 3 points
    No, I think it's rather a matter of not enough time to test with all combinations of printers, nozzles, etc. Because of this we're seriously re-evaluating our plan for testing products in the maintenance-state of development (such as currently UM2+). That shouldn't have slipped through.
  20. 3 points
    Sur le même principe, mastic aérosol ( coulures ) + ponçage rapide + lissage aérosol Nanovia + peinture. Hauteur de couche 0.1 mm
  21. 3 points
    Having great results lately, and its a huge timesaver My coffee container is very popular amongst family and friends and it's a great gift, I've printed out quite a few of these, and its always been a rather long print. There are some curves included as details, and I like keeping its original shape and not dull these down just because its prints easier, but any higher layers than 0.2 and it starts to string and fail on the curves. The base container takes around 17hrs to print, with 0.15mm layers (0.6mm nozzle) WIth adaptive layers, varying from 0.15-0.45mm its printed under 8 hours (7hrs,43min ) because most of the layers can be 0.45mm+ the threads came out perfect. Top of the container to the left, two visible threads with 0.15mm layers and you see the transition to 0.45 after thread stops
  22. 3 points
    I'd like to share the obvious advantages that Adaptive Layer has afforded me in my daily work flow. We are a manufacturer of plastic bottles. Not very sexy, but somebody has to do it . . . On this particular design, Adaptive Layer saved over 30 minutes on a 5 hour 15 minute build compared to without it. At the same time improving the overall look and quality of the finished model. The angular sections (dark blue at 0.10 layer) of the bottle have much finer stair steps per layer and the thread finish of the neck of the bottle has superior detail as well. The benefits are obvious. So again, thanks to the Cura team for this feature. I look forward to continuing improvement and the total integration into the basic application.
  23. 2 points
    Cura 3.2.1 has some important state indicators that are challenging to see and interpret. It would be very helpful if these were a more visually obvious. For example: When selecting which nozzle for a specific part, the difference between the selected nozzle and the non-selected nozzle is just a few pixels in size and a change in the line segments. Selecting the nozzle (on the right of the screen) for the configuration of each nozzle is also very subtle. Just the addition of the cyan inlay on the button. I have started prints with the wrong materials on more than one occasion - even though I am aware of my poor vision. It is possible to toggle the display using the "Layer View" option. But this is not the default setting for the "View" options, and there is a lag in this display as the object is re-sliced. Thank you for your consideration. Sincerely, Mark
  24. 2 points
    in the preferences there is the option 'ensure models are kept apart'. See if this enabled.
  25. 2 points
    The original knurled feeder looks brand new. No wear and tear. I will say that from day one the "optimized" profiles for PLA in Cura have infill speeds that are too high for the stock feeder. My printer has always underextruded PLA on infill using the 80mm/sec setting in the standard profile. In optimal conditions the stock feeder works just fine. However, there are many variables that can contribute to friction/blockage that will cause slippage. Here are just a few: 1. Coming to the end of a roll and the filament is tightly bent. 2. Adding a drybox with additional tubing that the filament has to go through. 3. Some filaments appear to be more brittle/hard and are not gripped as well by the feeder wheel. 4. Carbon buildup on the nozzle in the middle of a print causing partial obstructions. 5. Faster print speeds 6. Lower heat at the nozzle etc. My experience is that these can contribute to failed prints with the stock feeder. However, I am finding that the Bondtech is gripping the filament so much better that it mitigates most of these problems and allows me to print at much faster speeds.
  26. 2 points
    @KenL The only autoscaling that exists in the latest version of CURA (3.2.1 at this moment) is for autoscaling very small or very large part, ie stuff that is either in mm or meters, since one would be very hard to select and the other would just fill up the viewer and zooming out might not be possible. If those are not checked, then CURA does not do any autoscaling. I've printed plenty of stuff on the diagonal on my UM3E and never have I experienced what you experienced. Based on what you said, I believe you are being tricked by a quirk of CURA that @gr5 tried to explain in his first response: the measurement in the 'Scale' menu are not the measurements of your item, but a measurement of the volume it will occupy on the printing space. CURA is measuring the space that the printed item will occupy using predefinite and absolute X, Y and Z direction that do not vary. For example, if I try to print a wrench horizontally then diagonaly, the measurements by CURA changes, but not the size of my item: It only changes because I have changed the orientation. Cura measures using it's own reference system, irrespective of the orientation of your item, as shown by the big blue, red and green boxes. Thus, of course, if I change the orientation of my item, then the measurements in CURA changes since it doesn't care about orientation, it just measures in a straight line. Basically,CURA makes measures this way: And not this way: Hope it helps you.
  27. 2 points
    I recently had to repair a coin-sorter, where the motor drive gear had split in two. It was very small (only 4mm dia), so I was surprised to find that my UM2 made a perfect replacement. I used a 0.25mm nozzle with Innofil3D Fusion ABS (remarkable stuff) printed at 10mm/sec with 80% fan. The repair was a total success What tiny items have you made? Here is the gear sitting on a 5p coin
  28. 2 points
    @darkdvd est tombé dans une marmitte d'acétone quand il etait petit (il est tout lisse maintenant) c'est pour ça qu'il ne peut plus en avoir
  29. 2 points
    There are settings for increasing the overlap between skin and walls, and the overlap between infill and walls, but not for the overlap between skin lines among themselves. So if you adjusted some overlap setting, it must be the overlap between skin and walls or the overlap between infill and walls. Reducing the line width creates no overlap in theory. But in practice, because your nozzle size is larger than your line width, the line gets "blurred" a bit which causes them to overlap and adhere better.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    I can't put more likes to this post! This is super nice!
  32. 2 points
    You made it understandable. I have very bad blind spots on some things and I gotta tell you, your way of presenting information made it finally accessible to me. I seriously could not follow the anti-overhang tutorials and explanations put forth. I dunno why.... But your addition to the program does what good programming should do, require no real explanation. It is solid and nails down the ideas in an easy to grasp way. That is intuitive interfacing. Hats off on massively good programming and making something accessible that I could not follow before.
  33. 2 points
    Salut Je fais juste un petit retour sur un test de finition pour un projet futur, j'ai encore un peu de boulot mais le résultat est déjà pas mal. J'ai passé une petite couche de mastic polyester plastique que l'on trouve dans les produits de carrossier, le l'ai poncé a sec au papier de verre (80 pour dégrossir, puis 240 et 500 pour finir), ca se ponce comme du beurre donc ca prend très peu de temps. Le mastique se loge dans les cavités entre les layer du coup on ne ponce meme pas le pastique, le résultat est plutôt bluffant la pièce devient aussi lisse qu'un objet moulé ou usiné. un petit coup de peinture en aérosol et le tour est joué.
  34. 2 points
    Hi @darkdvd, yes, I attach the gcode. I just printed one of these and it came out reasonably well. The ends of the "foot" are thickened because it is doing a retract there but it's not really hideous. KMMB_SingleWallCURA.gcode
  35. 2 points
    Finalement il y a encore une fois, deux types ( et plus ) d'utilisation pour nos machines. Les "artistes" et les "industriels" donc je dirais qu'il y a aussi un produit pour une utilisation. Tu me vois faire le post pro de 200 pièces en hauteur de couche 0.4 mm avec un aérographe ? Pour mon test , hauteur de couche 0.1 mm avec une seul passage d’apprêt + ponçage + peinture.
  36. 2 points
    Suite au post de @lekid j'ai acheté l'appret garnissant Irontek pour tester. Par ordre décroissant voilà mon retour. Pouvoir garnissant : - Irontek - Nanovia - Motip Temps de séchage : - Irontek - Motip - Nanovia Facilté de ponçage : - Irontek - Nanovia - Motip Viscosité ( de plus fluide au plus pateux ) : - Motip - Nanovia - Irontek Odeur ( de la plus forte à la moins forte ) : - Motip - Irontek - Nanovia Donc il me semble que l'Irontek possède beaucoup de qualité, par contre étant trés visqueux il a un peu mal à se loger dans les micro cavités.
  37. 2 points
    I haunt all the forums. I cannot make most languages, but I can follow pics like this. Information is information :)_ And, thank you
  38. 2 points
    Hi @brightorange, thank you for your reply. What is misleading about kman's response? You speak of a clog, and even though you can now consider your printhead as clogged the origin of this problem was not a clog. It was a print that got loose from your build plate. This may not be relevant for finding a solution, but good to realize nonetheless. And although you can have a clog with every 3D printer, even previous Ultimaker generations could have filament accumulating around the heater block, but this used to be easier to clean because the hot end was much simpler. The Ultimaker 3 print head (and print cores) are more advanced, the upside is they are capable of more things but the downside is that if all the pieces of the puzzle fall in the wrong places, such a blob is more 'catastrophic' for your head and more difficult to clean. We're sorry you had to experience this first hand. Like you have stated, and I also see your post in the moderator queue, you seem to have found a piece of communication from Ultimaker to our sales partners. Because it states 'Salespartner only', I will not approve that post because it was not intended to be shared publicly. But I don't think it holds any dark secrets. Of course we (Ultimaker) know about the (small) chance that this can happen. In the design of the Ultimaker 3 we tried to reduce the chances of this happening to a bare minimum by inserting the silicon sheet and rings at the bottom of your printhead. The best thing you can do as a user to prevent such a thing from ever happening is ensuring your print won't get loose. Like using active leveling, clean your glass plates, use potentially recommended adhesives and suggested temperature and speed for your heated bed / initial layer. There are several threads on our forums that go more in depth about bed adhesion. But still, we think it is better to keep all of our sales partners informed and prepared so when a customer checks in with such a problem, they know what most likely happened and know immediately how to fix it. This should shorten the time it takes to solve your problem faster and improve the customer experience overall. Policy is we should always look for the best and reasonable solution for our customers. That you have to pay for the damaged print cores may slightly depend on your specific situation, hard for me to say, but let me check internally if that is indeed intended policy or not. Thank you for your time and patience. I'm sure we'll get you back to 3D printing shortly!
  39. 2 points
    I am not sure what you are designing, a pic would be most helpful. But, this is how I cracked the spiralize/vase mode print. It may sound silly, but it showed me the basics of how it could work. 1. Make a cylinder. Just a plain ol' capped cylinder. 2. Bring that into Cura. 3. Tell the top and/or bottom to have no layers or thickness. This will let the top and/or bottom be ignored. If the top only is ignored, you will have a base in the object like a glass. If the top and bottom are ignored (again, ignored = 0 layer thickness or 0 layers) you will get a tube. 4. Turn on Sprialize mode. 5. Slice: This will allow for Cura to see the thickness of the walls and apply the single wall with no issues. This is a project file with the basic settings I laid out above. The top is 0 layers and the bottom is left at default. The wall count is left at default as Spiralize will overrie that with just one wall. Retraction at layer change is unchecked (turned off) to prevent z-scar from marring the surface. UM3E_A_Cylinder_in_VaseMode.curaproject.3mf As @smartavionics mentioned, as long as your slopes are not too shallow, you can use angles and such without worry. Happy vasing!!
  40. 2 points
    En mastic j'utilise également du Tamiya Putty White mais c'est bien que pour les petites pièces de maquette car ça revient cher quand même ^^ J'ai bien envie de tester l'apprêt garnissant en aérosol également. Soit le MOTIP soit le Irontek à voir. En tout cas, les finitions sont vraiment chouettes PS : Pas con ton idée d'une raclette en flex @duriel ^^ Je faisais ça avec du carton ou un morceau de rouleau de papier à poncer usagé
  41. 2 points
    Certains polymères comme le PP ont une Transistion vitreuse dans le négatif, si tu passe sous cette température ils deviennent rapidement cassants. Bon si je comprend bien, sans réponses de votre part je vais devoir tester 😀
  42. 2 points
    setup:- latest version of Cura 3.2.1, win 7 64 bit OS, Marlin Firmware home built printer. When a print completes Cura tells me its printing and still shows the option to abort. why does it not go away and free up the application to start another print or do a reprint the only way to get back to preparing a print is to abort the completed print. forgive me if i'm wrong but abort usually is an option to get you out the poop when things go wrong not to return to an application after a successful print. on another note, I'm finding some idiosyncrasies in Cura which would be nice to see addressed in the next version release. 1. no option to manually control extruder temperature 2. no override for extruder and bed temperature whilst printing, just means we have to abort and screw up a print to adjust temperature before reprinting we need to be careful about plastic waste and saving the planet, western governments have already got their eye on the perceived waste we will create. districts in China have already started to make printer owners licence them so they can prevent the manufacture of illicit parts ie. guns etc. They will end up going down the road of the drones. 3. print order, Cura's slicer will never be able to understand why you would prefer to print at certain areas of the bed and not use its quickest route algorithm. I would set large pieces at the front of the bed and as the Y travel increases the large pieces end up away from the print-head and leave the rear of the table clear for further printing. You have to appreciate that many of us started to build machines before Ultimaker was born, we are talking the early reprap using printrun, pronterface etc. the old applications used to make the settings much more accessible, i'm in a bit of a dilemma as I actually like the simplicity of Cura, i'm getting old and really like to moan. I do take the hump when programmers dictate how mechanical machines should be operated, take the Airbus A320 for example - they insist they know more about the operation of an aircraft than a pilot. it all went horribly wrong when a heavily iced aircraft required more thrust on takeoff to clear the runway only to have the aircraft's computer decide it was not appropriate and throttled back every time the flight crew demanded more thrust. You guys at Ultimaker are always going to come up against old gits who cant use settings they used to have and love.
  43. 2 points
    Wow. Nice print. Everytime I think I've seen everything I see something very different that people do with 3d printers. The two features you want to experiment with are "z hop when retracted" and "combing mode". In the first place I'm surprised this happens at all - by default combing is enabled which means it should not ever hop over those gaps and instead should stay within the thin walls when moving to another location to print. Maybe it can't do that though - because maybe the center area is hollow underneath. So the alternative is to enable the z-hop thing and maybe (probably not) also disable combing. Because it doesn't retract when doing a combing move so it might not be retracting when making those "lines". But I doubt it. Probably you can leave combing alone. You probably want to use the horizontal slider in layer mode to see if the head is moving up every time. In addition you might have to play with retraction settings. You are printing very little between when retractions need to happen so maybe one of the retraction settins is occasionally preventing retraction: minimum retraction travel (set to 0 to make it always retract) maximum retraction count (set to 1000 to make it always retract) Note that these last two are a bit dangerous and can cause your filament to grind to dust if there are too many retractions. So I would set these back to normal for any other print than this.
  44. 2 points
    Ok, mais la, tu imprimes du PLA et le PLA est un filament qui doit être refroidi et avec une enceinte fermée, il doit faire trop chaud et du coup, le PLA continue à travailler. Le 0.06 n'a d'intérêt que sur les surfaces courbes ou sur les impressions vraiment très détaillées ou imprimées avec une buse de 0.25 par exemple....
  45. 2 points
    This the third object I've printed, the spiral vase! Very happy with it, all default settings, no support, UltiM white PLA, 200microns and no infill. 99% scale at 198mm, 6h 50min print time
  46. 2 points
    I'm fairly new to the forum but have been 3D printing for 4 years on Ultimaker printers. Yesterday I visited colorFabb and it was great to hear them say that they still see bronzeFill as one of their flagship materials even though it was launched some time ago. I love this material, and my best 3D print to date was made using it (colorFabb described me as one of the experts in using bronzeFill, which was really nice of them). There are pictures of it shown here. It combined a lot of my 3D printing skills to be able to successfully print this model using no infill, and using only 1 gramme of support material by splitting it into sections that were then joined together. It also took a lot of my post-processing experience with this material to achieve this finish. I did not create the model, I would love to be able to digitally sculpt to this level of detail, but it does show when you combine an exceptional model with and exceptional material you get an exceptional result!!
  47. 2 points
    WIth the same settings as the sphere, I made a 100mm tall cylinder with a ballnose....then I got this : which make no sense, it starts with the smallest layerheight at the bottom, and it gradually varies it up the cylinder even if the geometry is the same. then by adjusting the base layerheight to 0.1 it looks as one would expect : with 0.3mm layerheight on all of the cylinder part, and gradually decrease the values towards the top, which is superb (but settings make no sense) so atleast it works so you can forget about my ramblings above, i'm happy with results even if it takes some time to get there.
  48. 2 points
    There is a pull request by @ghostkeeper that makes postprocessing settings “permanent”. It has not been merged sofar, but it could still be part of Cura 3.3
  49. 2 points
    resource files for Cura 3.2 (and upwards) are in a new folder on Github: https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2/tree/master/cura-3.2-resources For GCode-Flavor "Ultimaker 2" Cura does not generate the "temperature magic" - because this is quite important for dual color prints i recommend the "Marlin" flavor for single extrusion prints just use the stock Ultimaker 2+ machine in Cura as before (and remove the second printhead from the dock to free up the build area if necessary) Glad that you like it - Have fun!
  50. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0


    My special designed filament holder are directly for the original ULTIMAKER 3 (UM3) spools. Until now I use it for the 350g and 750g spools of 2.85mm filament (see pictures). Advantages: Easy to clamp or unloose in the spool Best way of storing the filament spools Spools are better stackable No unraveling of the filament End of filament doesn't have to be fixed in the small hole and the danger of breaking filament I'm looking forward to your feedback and especially if it works as well for the other material spools. Have fun. Posted at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746539
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