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  1. 8 points
    Okay well this post will grow when I add temperature properties. I've been thinking about posting this for a few years. Here is a graph showing some mechanical properties of some common filaments. Please read explanation as this is a complicated subject. Click to zoom in on chart (click 3 times - first click zooms, second click jumps to actual image, third click zooms into that). Higher up is stronger. Farther to the right is stiffer (not steel). Both axes are logarithmic. Most data is published by various manufacturers. I have personally verified a few of these numbers with my own equipment. VERTICAL AXIS So the vertical axis is tensile strength. It's measured by pulling on a cylinder of material from each end until it breaks. Divide the force by the cross sectional area and you get the strength in psi (pounds per square inch) or MPa (mega pascals) for those who prefer metric (like me). Anyway this is kind of complicated because the materials towards the left are quite stretchy and long before their breaking point the parts are damaged. The point where it won't bounce back is the yield strength but I choose the ultimate aka breaking strength. Or whichever was higher (some materials actually start to get weaker again - like steel. Or PLA). Now the weakest material shown, PP is actually showing the yield strength - it is actually much stronger than you would think so this is unfair. But the machine that UM used to test PP wasn't long enough to test this value (the part never broke). HORIZONTAL AXIS This is the tensile young's modulus wherever possible (sometimes it's the flexural modulus which is close enough). This is tricky and complicated but for the most part indicates how stretchy/flexible a material is. So ninjaflex on the left edge has very similar flexibility to a rubber band. Most nylons (except shapeways) are much more flexible than PLA or ABS and this makes them very tough. Materials to the upper left will be tough as hell. In fact anything to the left of and including "nylon UM" can probably be driven over by a car and come out just fine afterwards. Or a tank. Or you can throw it against a brick wall with full strength or hit it with a hammer. Most of those materials in most shapes can handle it. Tough. Materials to the lower right are more likely brittle (hence glass is the most brittle). XT is probably somewhat brittle among filaments (I've never tried it). Materials to the right tend to be hard. The hardness scale and the modulus are closely intertwined. Things to the right are harder, to the left are softer. Specific Materials The table that created the graphs here is at the bottom of this post. Red materials above are for comparison and are not filaments. ABS is shown in green above - this shows how different people testing the same material get different results. Most of these tests (maybe all) were done on printed parts which will be a bit down and to the left of injection molded parts. Two different companies tested Taulman Nylon 645. With professional equipment and also got different values hence the two data points. UM=Ultimaker in the chart. XT is colorfabb. POMC is delrin. I'm very skeptical about nylforce CF specs. If someone wants to send me some I'll print and test it with my stress/strain machine. In the graph above there are a few points to keep in mind. Materials with low softening temp are the easiest to print because they don't warp much in the temperature range from this temperature to room temp. It's only about 30C difference. As you move to the right the yellow group of materials is a little harder - parts are more likely to warp off the bed so you need to learn some tricks. Maybe. They really aren't much worse. The orange area with ABS and other materials are tricky now for a few reasons - they don't stick as well to the bed, you are now getting into materials with layer adhesion issues so you need to lower the fans, the bed takes much longer to heat up - you really need to enclose the printer to raise air temp to around 35C to get decent quality. The red group needs nozzles that can go over 300C (no teflon please!) and print beds that can go to 150C and ambient air in the printer at 80C. So this requires special equipment. Also as you move to the right your materials can handle working environments of higher temperature. The green materials can't handle a car with windows rolled up on a hot sunny day (neither can a human for that matter). The yellow materials can handle this but can't handle boiling water. The orange materials can handle boiling water. SOFTENING TEMP (horizontal axis) In the graph above the horizontal axis is a mythical characteristic called "softening temp". For many of these materials in the green and yellow area I have tested them myself personally by sticking them in hot water. Above a certain temp they can be easily bent and when they cool a few degrees they stay in the new shape. That's what I call the softening temp but in reality this value came from HDT (heat deflection temp) or glass temp in other cases or functional temperature in other cases. It's a mixed bag. So it's very approximate! Normally you want the heated bed at a temperature a bit above this temperature such that the material is soft enough to flex a little and spread out the warping forces. PRINTING TEMP (vertical axis) Also somewhat arbitrary as some materials like PLA have a wide range of printing temps. Also variation in heater block design and variations in nozzle length, filament diameter, airflow touching nozzle, and more - affect what this temp should be. But it is a good place to start. Mostly I'm just showing that the red materials need special equipment to print them. The green, yellow, and orange materials can all mostly be printed by most printers no problem. In table below, take all values with a grain of salt. Especially temperatures. For tensile modulus notes read "horizontal axis" paragraph far above. For tensile strength read "vertical axis" far above. For softening temp - please read "softening temp" paragraph above.
  2. 5 points
    Externes Python Script für Simplify3D / Dual Hallo miteinander, Ich schreibe jetzt schon fast seit einem ¾ Jahr an einen Python Script für Simplify3D für das Dual drucken. Bin jetzt über Zufall drauf gestoßen das man das auch etwas Grafisch (GUI) aufbauen kann, somit bin ich jetzt der Meinung das jeder mit zurechtkommen sollte (wenn fragen sind, Bitte fragt), infolgedessen will ich es jetzt mit der der Gemeinschaft Teilen. Das Script macht folgendes (in Moment): Die „Temp Magic“ wie in Cura, das einzige „Problem/Einschränkung“ ist hier noch wenn die Düse nicht genug Zeit hat komplett abzukühlen hier wird dann schon zu früh geheizt. Wenn die Zeit gar nicht ausreicht, kann man auswählen ob gesenkt werden soll oder die Temperatur gehalten werden soll. Das abwischen am Turm mit Z-Senkung (Drucke mit Marins Dual Lösung mit Düsen Hub) Die Print Area Überwachung da hier die Firmware und Simplify3D versagt, durch den Hotend Offset (M218) geschuldet. Was braucht ihr? Ihr müsst euch Python 2 Installieren. Ich habe derzeit Version 2.7.13. (Hier geht es zum Download für Version 2.7.13) Und ihr braucht mein Dual Profil von S3D. Bzw. ist es nicht das ganze Profil nötig nur ein paar besondere Kennzeichnungen in Register Skripte. Kann also auch für die Mark2 Benutzer verwendet werden. (Wenn Interesse kann ich diese Punkte aufzählen damit ihr eure Script Umschreiben könnt) Ihr müsst drauf Achten das unten bei den Info´s Fensters kein Roter Text auftaucht, also keine Fehler vorhanden ist, den so kann es sein das der gcode unbrauchbar geworden ist. Hier mein FFF-Profil Hier mein Python Script mit ein kleinen Video Würde mich über Feedback freuen! Gerd
  3. 5 points
    Hi guys, I'm new to the community. I'm enjoying my ultimaker 2+ since couple of year now. This machine is super great and I never stop experiencing to get the most of it. Not easy to follow up though with all the updates, new material and stuff. But love this. I' using mostly my ultimaker to build mold therefore I'm not that into the detail of the best finishing of my prints. I use mostly the most rapid execution possible. here an example of my recent creation. It's a fully functional coffee machine based on Nespresso Essenza mini. ( I Love coffee) I have created a concrete version of the aesthetical cover. The mold have been printed with PLA filament. I use mostly PLA, simple, no odor and stuff. There are plenty of question I do have and therefore I will be visiting and participating to the community. Sharing experiences to get the most of each is great. If you have any question, let me know cheers daniele | bollicine-studio
  4. 5 points
    My last project, but not 100% finish. The size is 450mm
  5. 5 points
    @zerspaner_gerd & @MarcoUbtz Thank you gentlemen, everything is working perfectly now https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flexible-coupler-using-colorfabb-ngen-flex
  6. 4 points
    I quite like my Ultimaker 3, but I also think there is still some space to improve some things and I believe the hardware foundation is good and improvements can be done by software. Sadly the firmware of the Ultimaker isn't open source right now and the community/users can't (it's quite difficult) actively help to find and solve bugs or add new functionality or improve the user interface. Yes there are a few developers on this forum, which are happy to help and guide you to some files on the UM3 to change some settings. This is really kind of them, but I don't believe it's the right way as information gets scattered on the forum and the users rely on the UM staff/devs for information. At the release of the UM3 it was said that the files will be published after a year. The files for the machine were published but the firmware source code wasn't. From time to time I read that the firmware will be published at some point but no specifics are made and it seems like the date is pushed back and back. Therefore I wanted to ask Ultimaker if the firmware will be published at some point? Whats keeping Ultimaker from publishing it? Hasn't Ultimaker profited from publishing the source code and working together with the community/ users? Cheers!
  7. 4 points
    Well here is Stripe in copper, came out real nice. Maybe too shiny!!! will distress him and bring out all the details. Next time ill do him with his ears down so i can print him bigger and still fit in my beaker!
  8. 4 points

    Version 1.0


    Star Wars Porg!
  9. 4 points
    Not my latest, but one of my favs.... Yay I got the copperplating solution to work! Ive given up on the 3d prints section....
  10. 4 points
    Pour le projet de ventilation ça pourrait ressembler à ça. Un ventillo de 30mm monté sur un support imprimé qui devrait pas tarder à arriver. La petite plaquette de séparation au dessus du bloc de chauffe sera en FR4, pas de souci de température. D'ailleurs je vais commencer par ça car sauf erreur, isoler un peu le bloc de chauffe ça peu pas faire de mal. Pour le moment je n'ai que du PLA, mais il faudra que je fasse le boitier en ABS pour que ça ne bouge pas à la chauffe quand même... Le flux devrait être correctement guidé sur le coupleur.
  11. 4 points
    Hi, Welcome to the new Ultimaker community forum! Whether you just arrived for the first time, or you are a regular guest already, you might be wondering where you can find some of the basic features of this forum. To make the transition as smooth as possible, I’ve written some guidelines that should help you. The top right is where you can log in or register to create an account for the Ultimaker community. When logged in, you can access your profile there, see your notifications and direct messages. In your account, you can view your profile and via account settings you can access your notification preferences . We recommend checking your notification preferences to make sure they are to your liking. You can receive notifications from content that you follow and receive, subforums that you follow and even users you have chosen to follow. No need to miss anything. In the menu you can find: Browse - Forums, this is where you can talk and dive into the knowledge that is in our community. - Calendar, you can create your own events here. So will Ultimaker. You can notify if you will be going to an event and receive notifications. - 3D Prints, you can share your 3D print here and you can check out what your fellow community members have made. You can also share gcodes, curaproject.3mf files and jpg (pictures of your print) here. - Leaderboard, which community members are most active and what topics are most popular. You can find it here! - Our picks, hand picked content, selected just for you. Must reads for everyone. - Clubs , this is a private section of the forums. It is not uncommon we test a variety of new products or services in our community, sometimes open beta tests (like Cura), and sometimes closed (like [censored]). The closed beta’s will take place in private clubs. - Guidelines , our house rules. I would like to invite you to take a look at them before you start. Activity offers a couple of different filters that offer you new content. Under ‘My Activity Streams’ you can create your own filter to fully focus on topics you care about. Ultimaker.com; is an easy and fast way to our main website. We love to hear from you. So when you have a question, make sure to post it on our forums. There is a chance somebody already asked it before you, so the fastest way to your answer might be just a quick search via our search bar in the top right corner. Didn't find your answer? Then click ‘Start new topic’ and launch your question into our community. It's important you select the right category to post your question in. For example, our Cura team monitors the Cura thread but not per se the ‘official news’ channel. Secondly, there is a new option to add tags to your post. This can be a quick way to create context to your question, and is also a fast way to search or filter content you need. We hope you enjoy our new forum, you can let us know what you think right here and if you're new, feel free to introduce yourself here As always, have a great day!
  12. 4 points
    I'm happy to announce we've successfully migrated to our new forum Let us know what you think!
  13. 3 points
    Un grand moment du Forum... Si j'ai une buse qui se bouche, je lui montre cette photo et direct elle se débouche ! mieux que la méthode atomique
  14. 3 points
    Vais-je aller en prison ? La bestiole ferait 1m10 à la louche....je la verrais bien dans mon jardin.... Dessinée pour une UM2
  15. 3 points
    Hey guys, Just got Mark2 working. Thanks for everyone's effort in this project. Still trying to get it work better but I thought I could share some of the accessories I made for Mark2. Extruder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2289203 Top Spool mount: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spool-holder-mount-for-ultimaker-2 Bowden Tube Hook: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2154124 Filament Guide Roller: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-guide-roller-for-um2 Modified Mark2 Parts: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mark2-modified-parts
  16. 3 points
    This depends only on the revision of the main board. On the older boards (Rev. 2.1.1) the 5 Volt supply for the small fan is hard wired and not switchable. This has changed for newer boards, that are used for the UM2+ (Rev. 2.1.4). A cheaper option for older machines would be a bimetallic temperature switch and a bit of tinkering, see here: UM2-RearFan-Automatic
  17. 3 points
    ofc nobody likes the extra printing time, but imho they are pretty helpfull in getting better quality.... so I would definitely not write prime towers off....
  18. 3 points
    Le PP n'est pas vraiment un " flexible " car il ne rentre pas dans la catégorie TPU / TPE , c'est simplement un thermoplastique comme le PLA ou l'ABS. Ses caractéristiques mécanique en élongation environ 100 % ( en comparaison le ninjaflex pointe à 600% ) te donnent l'impression qu'il est " semi-flexible ". C'est le polymère par excellence niveau conso comme tu peux le voir sur ce graph, je glisse derrière celui des bio-plastique histoire de se faire une idée sur les parts de chacun : Ce qui est très étonnant c'est que finalement il arrive relativement tard sur le marché de l'I3D, les derniers compound ( mélange ) entre PE/PP le rendent moins cristallin et donc imprimable. Sinon je viens de regarder sous une bouteille de white spirit au fond de mon garage elle est en PET Une petite petite exclu pour la fin , impression d'un PP chargé fibre de verre (longueur des fibres 0,4 mm )
  19. 3 points
    I am creating too a holder for mount the clamping dock on a ultimaker 2 aluminum clone. I haven´t have yet the final part., and I have to test it. This is how looks
  20. 3 points
    @2go You want the bed above glass temperature for stiff materials that don't bend well. Nylon bends well so the bed can be below glass temp. For ABS and PLA which are stiffer you need the bed ideally above glass temps (around 52C and 99C). Much more detail about this in the video below. @Den door - definitely use some glue but not plain glue stick. It's not the PLA brand, lol. Here is a video I created to describe how to prevent what you are witnessing.
  21. 3 points

    Version 1.0.0


    Nozzle : 0.4 Layer : 0.06 #dinosaur #giganotosaurus #dino #dinosaurs #figure
  22. 3 points

    Version 1.0.0


    1/40 Mosasaurus Nozzle : 0.4 Layer : 0.06
  23. 3 points
    Ok some points and some questions. 1. Your bed may be level but your nozzle to bed distance may not be optimum 2. Are you using a brim? If not you should use one, especially for something that looks as if it has quite a large surface area. Can you take a pic of your 1st layer with brim from above please so we can see how that is going down. We should be able to tell if your first layer is going down too close or too faraway. 3. If you are closing your nice new front glass door with PLA, do not, leave it open 4. Are you using an adhesive, if not then use one. I lightly spray 2 layers of extra strength hairspray on the glass bed (20 seconds or so between each layer). 5. How long have you had your printer? Does it always do this. If not what is different between how it is acting now and how it was acting before? 6. Once your bed temp reaches 60 do you wait 10 mins or so before starting the print so that all areas of the bed have reached 60? 7. You say your bed level is perfect, did you check it with a spirit level? Did you check another part of the printer to ensure it is showing the same level, not close - the same. 8. Can you tell us your settings please 1st layer print speed and extruder temp. Subsequent layer print speeds and extruder temp. If you different speeds for different parts of the payer pleas provide the detail 1st layer layer height and subsequent layers layer height. Number of bottom and top layers Fan details - when does it come om; when does it reach max speed; what is ma speed set to To clarify; is bed temp. 60 all the way through the print?
  24. 3 points
    Thanks! These are my latest efforts in 2L copperplating. Two aged versions and one GIANT super-shiny one! and A before and after of the american bull as i have loads of unfinished ones laying around... Had to order a 2ltr container for the big one as the 1ltr just didn't fit most of my new prints anymore. I am happy with this new size. takes a bit longer to do though, the small dogs took about 1.5 hrs to do and big 4hrs. Still testing and experimenting. Pinhead is next but im having a few issues connecting him up.
  25. 3 points
    I am finishing up a bunch of prints and stuff from a while back.....
  26. 3 points
    Already found?? Here are my noted links: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1959
  27. 3 points
    Ma femme me dit souvent ça pour me rassurer...
  28. 3 points
    Petit retour suite à la réception des tmc2100 : NICKEL ! Bon sauf que sur 1 des 4 je ne peux pas modifier le VREF... (sav contacté). C'est un bonheur de pouvoir entendre le son de mon PC tout en imprimant. Et je peux enfin lancer des impression longues être réveillé par le bruit. Sur l'axe Z la différence est énorme en mode vase. Et pour la rétractation je me suis trouvé une modif' de l'extrudeur, ça tien de travers mais c'est efficace : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53690 Merci
  29. 3 points
    I would pick the bcn sigma. I seen users with old models having issues on the feeder and hotend, but not any user with the new R17 models. So for the price, that's lower, is better because: - Has modern steppers without the Zebra stripes issue like all current ultimaker models - Hotends are cheap as chips, for a 230€ you get a full hotend kit with nozzles 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm that's for the price of 2 UM3 cores. - Bed is fully usefull, no excuses of how they define 'print area' or clips to block, or the need to install a builtak to raise the bed to avoid the bed clips. Also they use Borosilicate Glass now, no just Tempered glass. It has a 0.1 max error on the surface, on UM they don't even tell you what error ratio you will get. - Bed leveling system is just easy as cakes, I will do a simple video showing it because it's great imo. Also their firmware allows you to readjust on 0.025 decimals manually if you want to fine tune it and actually know what's changing. - You can enable Duplicate/Mirror mode to print two objects at the same time (using half the bed for duplication or a bit less for mirror since the head could collide otherwise) so you can use the printer to print 2 of the same objects, production wise is a nice option (they have it as default for sigmax and I made a firmware after @amedee explained me how to est the marlin compiler to comment 1 line of code), I even made a video about that XD - Firmware is very easy to edit and upgrade like on a normal printer, no need for Signed security firmwares like UM3 or the danger of briking a 3k machine because you edit the UM3 Json files and you mistype a comma (been there done that) Print speed and reliability for me are on par of the UM3, and using BCN3D profiles the prints go nice and smooth. - The feeder is a knurled bolt, that's good and bad, I never got an issue so far, but I see some old sigma users that they have changed it to bondtech for more reliability. So far I don't see the need, but I know that bondtech is a better feeder. Upgrading it it's easy, but on um3 if you plan to upgrade their feeder you can really brick the machine (3 weeks ago an user on twitter did brick his by just changing a wrong data on the machine um3 json. Ofc UM did send him a new board to replace his. - Price of components is more earth-level. For example the main board is 125€ on the sigma (3djake) and steppers are around 100€ for all. So a full electronics for the machine is around 225€. On the UM3 the 'printerboard' (the um3 white board) is 300€ and the Olimex linux board is another 300€ (that's 600€ for just basic electronics). - Talking about price, the sigma is 2200€ (without taxes) and the um3 is 3000€ without VAT. That's 800€ that you can expend on bondtech, a full hotend pack, and you can even put some spare glasses for fast production. - Motion system on the UM3 is a light gantry with thin 6mm shafts to keep the weight down, but holds a 250grms printhead + cores. So it's moving a 300+ grams with thin smooth rods. That's the big speed limit for the um3, and the reason Cura team developed a lot of tricks to improve the ringing, this tricks are also used on Sigma, because it makes the print look better. Ofc the difference is on the infill settings... But that's for another day. Basically Sigma gantry is more heavy, but all rest on a solid frame with linear rails, that unlike smooth rods, don't wooble. On print speed both machines are very close. - Future upgrades on Sigma are very easy to install, and is actually Open Source, you can even download the tools they use to adjust the machine or see everything. On UM3 they took a year to just post some step files, and still they haven't post their firmware (not talking about their marlin 'driver') but the actual firmware. I don't know why they fear so much to being copied, but clearly they have a protect IP fear that blocks them to share back. Now offtopic My plans on the BCN3D Sigma for 2018 are to make the gantry lighter, thanks to the input from @gudo and other user on facebook. Probably using a markforged corexy idex setup. Would remove almost 400grs on the gantry making it a seriously fast dual printer. But well, that's just me, I like to mod stuff. So far I'm using it without mods =)
  30. 3 points
    A little while ago we hosted an 'Ask Me Anything' with our Cura team and one of the questions asked was about a notorious 'Top 50' list which formed the scope of what our Cura team was working on. @Msuurmond said there was indeed a list (we actually do plan ahead yes!) and we would look into what of this information we can share so you have a better idea of what the future holds and what we are working on. Today I received a few features we are working on and we would like to share them with you. It is not all 50 features. Good things come in small packages. But it is a nice collection of features we are building and/or exploring. Faster startup times (it will be done faster than your morning coffee) Tree support. A different, more efficient way of generating automated support. Adaptive layer height (yes!) Plugin browser update Multiple build plates (awesome!) Signed windows installer/executable, no more warning while installing Cura on Windows Manual remove support ... and like 43 other things which might be shared at a later date We hope you enjoy this little prospect and you are as excited about some of those features as I am! We're curious to hear what you think and I hope you have a great day! (I happen to remember @ultiarjan and @Dim3nsioneer showed interest in this list)
  31. 3 points
    I've been investigating most of yesterday and today. And I'm confident that I have a fix for the temperature fluctuations. The root cause is a single bad temperature sample is throwing the temperature PID controller in a bad state. Cause the heater to go full on/off for a few seconds. (Generally off) The bug is a combination of a bad temperature sample, the "functional range" logic and filtering on the "D state" of the PID controller. The reason we are suddenly seeing this now, is because of a different bug introduced. Which causes, occasionally, the temperature of the other hotend being read for a hotend. Which greatly increased the frequency of this problem. We where already testing a fix for this wrong-hotend-temperature problem, so we where aware of that problem, but didn't notice the large impact it had on the temperature stability.
  32. 3 points
    Salut Didier, beau gosse sur l'avatar avec t-shirt "corporate" quel homme ! ( applause de la foule en délire ) - ( tu te calme ) Alors pourquoi BCN et pas Ultimaker ? Tu comprendras facilement la première raison qui est le financement bien évidement, je ne connais pas les ambitions d'Ultimaker concernant son positionnement sur le marché, mais la récente politique de prix proposée avec la sortie de l'UM3 et de son plateau toujours aussi petit ainsi que son écran toujours aussi petit, etc... met en danger la vision de la marque face au concurrents. Pour le prix d'une UM3 extended, tu as une Raise avec une plateau de 30x30 sur une hauteur de 600 ! il y a une petite différence non ? Alors oui, la double extrusion de la Raise c'est pour faire beau, le moindre gars qui imprime tous les jours à déjà compris qu'aligner les buses sur la même tête sans décalage en Z ça ne marche pas. Le système IDEX de la Sigma est à mon sens le meilleur rapport qualité/prix pour une double extrusion fonctionnelle et performante, bien évidement il existe pleins d'autres systèmes ( j'ai vu des choses incroyables au TCT ) mais leur système est vraiment fiable si on pense à vider régulièrement le bac de recueil... ( smiley anorexie ) N'ayant pas d'UM3 j'imagine qu'au sortir du PLA et à l'attaque de polymère au grade " très fluide" mais aussi "très visqueux chargés" ( haut cisaillement imposé pour l’obtention d'un fondu sans sous extrusion ) cela devient un casse tête pour ne pas faire suinter la buse en attente. Afin de finir sur une note positive, je vais être franc avec toi, cette Sigma R17 me fait chier depuis le début ! c'est pas des conneries, je ne regrette pas cet achat mais niveau qualité du matériel ( carte, lecteur SD, etc...) c'est vraiment lamentable et je ne parle pas du firmware qui lui est simplement une arnaque. Le pire c'est que toute cette petite communauté "BCN" sur Twitter ne cesse de nous montrer qu'ils ont la plus grosse... bref je ne conseil pas cette bécane à un novice car il y a du boulot avant d'avoir un système opérationnel, pour l'instant elle tourne avec Pronterface car le lecteur SD est mort....de plus niveau qualité d'impression ils sont très loin d'une UM2 bondtech / bed PID / MarlinUM mais alors très loin. Voilà mon cher en espérant avoir répondu à ta question.
  33. 3 points
    Mais non, je ne vous ai pas abandonné ! J'ai été très occupé ces derniers temps, une opération chirurgicale suivie d'un mois d’arrêt et de nouvelles fonctions à mon retour. Dorénavant l'impression 3D c'est 100% de mon temps ( voir 150% ), plan de maintenance préventive, mise aux normes des locaux, partenariats avec de nouveaux fabricants de filament, deux Raise N2+, une Sigma R17, une SigmaX et bientôt le "frigo" de I3D Inno Multi 512 puis 3 autres de ce même fabricant à venir si nous validons cette bécane. Je vous conseil d’ailleurs de rencontrer le dirigeant de cette société JL Bodet car il vaut le détour, c'est le seul homme de la terre à couler son aluminium pour réaliser ses tête d'extrusion ! Selon ses mots "c'est complétement débile mais j'aime bien"... Et puis me voilà de nouveau étudiant à l'université avec une carte et des réductions au ciné, si si véridique ! La première session un peu chiante " découverte " mais le meilleur reste à venir "mécatronique" et surtout "rhéologie" j'ai hâte Bref c'est super de vous retrouver ici et j’espère que cette nouvelle formule boostera les projets les plus dingues.
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    @lekid, pour ton info et pour ne pas oublier mon cadeau, c'est le 11 mars
  36. 3 points
    Merci pour les explications du nouveau forum C'est cool ce calendrier pour voir les events On peut même voir les anniversaires des membres (ainsi que leurs âges ^^) On va bien continuer à le faire vivre comme avant je pense qu'il n'y aura pas de soucis là dessus
  37. 2 points
    New forum, new start. First of all, welcome to everyone on our new community forum software. We hope you'll like it here. We are very happy to have moved to IPboard and make this our new home. As always, we are eager to hear your feedback. If you have any questions or discover any bugs, let us know. If you don't... hearts and hugs are also welcome
  38. 2 points
    My name is Gemma Amendola Normington. I recently started working as an art/graphic arts teacher in Waterville, Washington. There are some crazy wild fires in Washington and the air pollution at certain times of the year can be quite terrible. I am currently working with the students to 3D print vertical gardens to help clean the air! There are some great ideas and designs to play with and we would like to work with the Agriculture department here to figure out the best plants to use. Those students would like to work with the elementary kids to help grow the plants from seeds. The vertical garden will be flexible when it comes to the design on the front and we could design the back so that it fits a hydroponic system. The students have started to learn all about the engineering and the biology involved in this type of project. We would also like to incorporate recycled plastic and research sustainable alternatives. Waterville is rural community and we have just started an Agriculture program at the school. This is going to tie in very well to their program as well. I have worked with Ultimaker in the past and I know they are a great company. I started working with them to make this a more global project and they were really helpful! We got the Ultimaker 2Go in the mail last week and we have started playing with some designs. We would like to make a hydroponic garden using a system of gutters. The Ultimaker 2Go is small so we have to do the planter parts in pieces but the printer does a nice job keeping things smooth so the pieces fit together really well. Here are some of the initial ideas we designed using Blender 3D software. We are currently working to polish up the design and get all the parts working together. I will keep you posted on the progress. Once we have the design down, we will share it for others to use. Any ideas or input you all have to help us improve the process would be welcome!
  39. 2 points
    An year ago I had to choose a 3D printer for my company (with no price limitation), and I chose an Ultimaker 3 Ex because : - open source - open hardware - open software - Not a a company that started open source then was bought by the biggest 3D name (stratasys) then closed everything for the user, with no compatibility with other filaments brands, no 3rd party brands parts (like solex -_^) - awesome community (that really helped me when I started) - support filaments like PVA with a real dual extrusion - good repetability - good reputation - no regrets the things I like about the makerbot is the awesome look, enclosed printer, HMI, and filament roll placement, I cannot tell about the print quality because I never used one.
  40. 2 points
    Its finally here guys, 2.85mm Ultem9085 from 3dxtech, for anyone who wanted this, because he didnt want to change the feeder etc, its launched now and soon other HT(high temperature) materials will be launched in 2.85mm
  41. 2 points
    If i remember right, you have to choose a material for the second extruder first (on the printer: Material Settings -> Extruder 2). Without a known material there is no known temperature and the "cold extrusion prevention" kicks in.
  42. 2 points
    This has been posted before, but there is also this decision tree that might help decide which 3D design software is appropriate for a particular situation: https://go.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448 It pretty much rejects Sketchup right away, but at least it shows a number of other tools that are available.
  43. 2 points
    Hey guys, I have been working on configuring the latest Marlin code release (currently 1.1.6) to use on an Ultimaker Original. I have been through the configuration files to compare to my latest 1.0 build. These are the changes I made to successfully get it printing. Basically, you need to open a couple files in the downloaded Marlin, search for these lines and either remove the '//' to un-comment, or change a defined value. I prefer the program notepad++ for editing. You can use the "language" setting "c" to make it more readable. :EDIT: Okay, I finally got with the program and created my own fork of Marlin. This will make it a lot easier to keep my customizations, while merging in new changes from the Master branch. Here is my fork: https://github.com/CCS86/Marlin-UMO-CCS86 This shows a comparison of my changes to the Master: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/compare/1.1.x...CCS86:1.1.x Some of my changes are specific to my modifications: - Official heated bed kit - Stock heater and thermocouple - Direct driven X & Y w/ GT2 belts & pulleys - Upgraded X & Y steppers with half the full step angle from original (hence the microstepping 8 vs 16) - Custom geared stepper extruder drive - A very slight software skew correction. You would want to disable skew correction until you print a test square for yourself. - Use of a REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Read on to see an explanation of the changes. #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER #define POWER_SUPPLY 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 For the official heated bed kit: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20 #define PIDTEMPBED (Enable PID bed control) PID autotune gave me very bad results in the past. I came up with these values manually for the official bed kit: #define DEFAULT_bedKp 40 #define DEFAULT_bedKi .55 #define DEFAULT_bedKd 10 Gets the end stop logic correct: #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true Set values for your motion control here. You will need to look in your controller for your current settings. I use my phone and snap a picture of each screen: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 200, 488 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 250, 250, 35, 35 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000, 2000, 600, 1000 } #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 2000 #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3500 I run these values because of my direct drive X and Y axis. If you still have the short belts, flip these values: #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define INVERT_Y_DIR true This corrects the Z axis direction: #define INVERT_Z_DIR true Enable this to allow saving of some of the values listed above from the control, without a reflash: #define EEPROM_SETTINGS In my configuration_adv, I made these changes: #define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT { 135,135,135,135,135 } This gives you a menu item in "TUNE" that lets you adjust Z height on the fly. Super useful for dialing in the first layer height. You can even compensate for added blue tape with about 10 clicks: #define BABYSTEPPING #define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR 2 This is a new feature that attempts to keep extruder pressure (rate) more accurately synced with head speed. This is a big issue on bowder printers, where the print head can change speed much faster than extruder pressure. This causes under-extrusion in regions of acceleration and over-extrusion when decelerating. According to the devs, Slic3r generates compatible gcode, but newer Cura does not. I am working with the Marlin devs to improve / find the issues with Cura gcode, because I really prefer Cura. Feel free to test and contribute to the discussion: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8827 More info on LIN ADVANCE: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html Calibration method: http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html Code to enable: #define LIN_ADVANCE #define LIN_ADVANCE_K 0 (you can pre-populate a value here. '100' is something you can test the waters with, but you can change this via the controller menu and save later. Or change via gcode) This should get you going. First test each axis direction with "move axis". Then you can give an M119 command to check the status of the endstops. Very important that they are working correctly. Then you can command some increasing temps for the nozzle and bed, making sure you get stable readings there. Then print something and report back!
  44. 2 points
    Et bonne année à tous et à toutes les amis !
  45. 2 points
    That's cool! Finally these crooked waves gone! Have completely lost sight of this.
  46. 2 points
    Indeed Z wooble due directdrive occurs, with the flexible beta addon is minimal. Gudo and I are moving our printers to Corexy with rails where Z move due directforce disappears completely without the need of the flexible addon. Check this thread I post on twitter for progress. So far been using it without any issue for production
  47. 2 points
    Ah zut j'arrive trop tard, mais oui il semblerait que la première chose a tenter quand cura crash comme ça soit de supprimer ses fameux répertoires qui contiennent les profils. Qu'est ce qu'elle est efficace cette communauté
  48. 2 points
    @rigs c'est le deuxième en partant de la gauche, je l'ai reconnu
  49. 2 points
    @duriel j'ai même les disquettes 5 pouces 1/4 de windows 3 si tu veux.
  50. 2 points
    To be honest: i strongly doubt that it is related to the firmware update. You probably don't want to move the z-axis to the absolute position of 20 mm, but a relative move instead (and similiar for the E-axis). The obvious thing is, that your end script does not (longer?) begins with the G91 command. In addition it would be a good idea to switch back to absolute positioning at the very end of the script (with G90). Good luck!
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