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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Here’s my new printer cabinets to keep noise in my office down and to store them in a neat & tidy way. Made by my favorite furniture maker. PSU, cables, Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint are stowed in the drawers underneath the printers. The printers can slide out for filament change or other maintenance. The doors have gaskets so the noise can’t escape.
  2. 8 points
    This is something I've been working on for a while in between other projects. Only a specific sequence of steps will allow access to its secret compartment. Check out the YouTube video linked below to see it in action. Designed in Sketchup and printed on my UM3, it's made up of 36 individual pieces which snap together. I used a variety of filaments: Ultimaker Nylon, Transparent and Black Ultimaker ABS, Orange, Green and Gray Faberdashery PLA, True Lagoon and Glacier Blue YouTube Video, Project X
  3. 6 points
    I am working on an exciting plugin that I am calling Mesh Tools. In the GIF, I have loaded three models. The top right mesh (normals.stl) has its normals reversed, because my modeler of choice has a different winding order. That's why it is showing overhang on top of the model (silly Cura...). The top left model (leaky.stl) has a hole in it. It won't print well. The bottom two cubes were loaded as a single STL (dual.stl). No amount of ungrouping will get them apart. The UI of this plugin will change before it gets released, but I wanted to show you some exciting preliminary results.
  4. 4 points
    I am making Lithopanes on an ultimaker 3, these days some I am able to make, some break mid way, any thing I can improve on . Some even go up to 120 mm,
  5. 3 points
    It will be my next full plate print. Will be printed to be lighted with LEDs.
  6. 3 points
    It should be fixed for Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker 3 in Cura 3.5.
  7. 3 points
    I live in Sweden too and just want to say that I ordered a couple of glas plates from fbrc8 as no one in Sweden had them in stock and they arrived approximately after one week. Thats awesome in my book.
  8. 2 points
    Cura does do this. Although I think they changed the name of this maybe. I think it's this one: infill layer thickness It must be an integer of normal layer height. So your example of 0.05 and 0.2 should work. Note that if the part has sloping walls it gets messy. But if your walls are all vertical then it works great.
  9. 2 points
    Allez faisons remonter ce post! C'est un projet que j'avais en chantier depuis quelques temps déjà... un truc inutile mais tellement classe sur le bureau 😀 Design sous Inventor, assemblage de 3 pièces parce que de toutes façon ça ne rentre pas dans l'UMO+ et aussi parce que ça limite le recours au supports pour un meilleur rendu final. Et les sculptures qui précèdent sont drôlement chouettes!
  10. 2 points
    So's, I goes to da Doc...Says something is veddy wrong... Doc says, "Well, let us see inside." And, oh my....what we found!! This is actually my skull from a recent CT scan the VA had made. Gaze into mine hollow eyes....;... Now we's peeks inside..... Rut roh Raggy......A fetid swamp me innards be!! Bats in me belfry!!!!! the original Batty Concept Edit, I will be putting something together on how I did this....but it really is my skull.....just did not scan the front part of me face 😞
  11. 2 points
    Hi, just rename the file to .zip and unpack it. There might be another way to open it but I don't know about it.
  12. 2 points
    I'll let you know as whatever it is is out for delivery today.
  13. 2 points
    That isn't going to work as you wish because the model is solid. The fact that you set infill to 0% is ignored when it comes to generating the support. BTW, the tone of your posts gives the impression you're a complete dick head. Sorry to be blunt but that's how you come across. No matter, we can cope with all types here.
  14. 2 points
    Hi @bastienb! you can send me messages here in forum or even e-mail me to: gazzola@3dsolid.com.br So, I saw that you are in France, right? I believe this link is from a distributor or manufecturer of those kind of ceramic-glasses: https://vitre-cpi.fr/vitre-plate-rectangulaire/7-verre-rectangulaire.html (this link above was shared in page 3 of Neoceram glass topic, not sure which brand is). I found mine seaching for "industrial glass association" in my country... and them I asked they about a ceramic glass reseller. For more details check the entire post about it, when this topic start, this link above was shared in page 3. Make sure to get 4mm thickness glass (UM2 is a bit smaller, around 3.85-3.90mm) so the clips will be tight. To be more confortable to hold and clean the glass make sure to ask the seller to smooth the edges (c-edge) and cut corners rounded with 5mm ratio. If you need more help let me know. Cheers!
  15. 2 points
    Sooooo Good news and 'learning'. Glue stick (with good advice applied, thinned out with a damp tissue), worked perfectly. Flat, no warping, came off without taking any glass afterward. 'Learning:. Ironing. I had slowed down the print speed to ensure the quality was where I needed it. Worked great. But then I decided to tick 'ironing' at similary low speeds, on a piece with lots of corners. From the already pretty good finish, Ironing produced three distinct textures. At the start of the corners, surface quality was slightly better than non ironed. Mid length lines were amazing, just about zero discernable lines. But then we got to the corners on the end, and, well, it just created a melted blob, effectively destroying what needed to be a flat surface. No biggie, this wasn't intended to be the final print anyway, just checking dimensions, but note to self. Easy on the ironing with nylon. (BTW this effect worked perfectly on the PLA version of this print). Thanks again for the advice! John
  16. 2 points
    i know you have already received plenty of answers.. but i do want to comment on some things you said 🙂 first of all; I've been lucky to switch to the Ultimaker S5 at launch, and have been running 8 Ultimaker s5s since the start, so I suppose that's about 3 or 4 months by now.. I run them 24/7 and I run them hard. my success rate has been close to 100 percent.. failures I've had have always been relatable to the weak part of the equation, namely me.. I print mostly PLA, the rest is NGEN, Nylon, PLA+PVA, some exotic materials based on client requests, and the only failures I've had have always been me being hasty, knowing something would fail and then thinking "meh, maybe it'll succeed..". as far as the 3D Hubs rating, I am one of the few hubs running the S5 on 3d hubs: if you look at this article you can filter on the S5 and get test prints done on them: https://www.3dhubs.com/blog/ultimaker-s5-on-3d-hubs/ you are saying you see bad reviews? i don't see them for the S5 on 3D Hubs. on general, the print quality from the S5 either gets 5 stars from my customers, or 1 star if they don't get FDM.. i don't really get middle ground reviews to be honest. My switch has been from the Um3 to the S5 and I can tell you with confidence that that has been one of the best decisions ever made. I use the printers for small scale production run (right now printing 3200 pieces for a UK company) but also for small orders like drone parts in Carbon Fiber. for me, these printers have been true workhorses and the most reliable printers I've ever used.. I've been in the printing game for about 4-5 years now, always running small to medium print farms, and I've never had a better printer then the S5. if you have questions, feel free to ask.. I'm not getting paid here to advertise these printers and if other printers were better, i'd happily tell you so.. go check out my hub at www.korneel.nl then you can see what I've done on just 3d hubs and how happy people have been.. hope that gives you some confidence..
  17. 2 points
    I admire your patience with post processing prints... Have you thought acetone smoothing? 😛
  18. 2 points
    Did you already try switching to another infill type? One suggestion I heard is also to disable combing... if I get around to do it, I'm gonna run some test parts, checking some of these things out. BTW, here is the temperature test tower - encourages me to actually print hotter instead of cooler, contrary to the typical PETG advice.
  19. 2 points
    Ok, my nightshifts have been quite demanding lately, but I managed to squeeze in a quick spray primer just to see what the surface looks like after the intial clean up. my airbrush was a bit clogged as im a bit lazy and dont clean it out enough, but looks good to me! some phone pics......
  20. 2 points
    This is a complicated subject. I would have to type for 4 hours to answer your questions properly. Can you pick just one thing please? The thing that is the largest problem for you personally. If you could only fix one of these issues this week and if you could narrow it down to something that is very subjective e.g. "the part is wider at the bottom then further up yet the model has vertical walls - as seen in this photo - I care most about the bottom layer though". Then I can help you out. The AA 0.4 profile with 0.15 layers for Tough PLA is probably the best starting profile but there are so many profiles I don't know which ones I've tested. But this is probably the most tested and best one to start with.
  21. 2 points
    And more to scanning faces, here is a start to finish job. First pic is a raw recap scan from about 15-20 photos which i think is plenty they are good quality, sometimes more photos actually makes it worse with live subjects as they tend to move more the longer you take photos which of course ruins the scans. next one is a roughly cleaned up version to make the head complete and the last one is the final version I've cleaned up from looking at photos. I chopped the neck off as I was making bobble heads.
  22. 2 points
    So the issue is you have coasting turned on and the volume is set to 0.15. It might print just fine - I don't know. I've never used coasting. I notice you have a gap in your teal colored skirt also. This is also due to coasting.
  23. 2 points
    123D catch was discontinued ages ago, and a few other variants followed until the pay model they have now which straight up sucks. Bye bye autodesk. you now have to subscribe to use the photogrammetry app and pay more to get credits to use it after. For you and me just scanning fun stuff, Its a total nono. as there is no guarantee you will get anything and you will just waste tons of money. Id just get photoscan pro and use that. That was my main issue, I was forced to use recap to finish off some work, but It cost me way too much. Its a one click solution true, but once you have agisoft photoscan you can scan as much as you want, it may not be one click, but it gives good results I'm told and have seen online. I haven't tried it so can't tell you how user friendly it is, but am installing it now. There are some good tutorials on youtube how to use it. Il keep you posted and post my scans and prints related to any new method i use, as I used to scan a LOT!!! and have tons of things ready to materialise.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Hi Folks, Visit Robotdigg, the have all kinds of parts for CNC & 3D printers. I bought belts and pulleys from them (GT2). Thanks Torgeir.
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