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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  2. 4 points
    This orange component removes the finished parts from the press. The part replaced an aluminum part, which in each case additionally had to be equipped with a teflon glider and was also much more expensive to manufacture. In addition, the 3d printed component was provided with a break point, which protects the upper punch against damage in the event of a crash.
  3. 3 points
    You could try rotating it 90 degrees.The problem is that printers aren't simultaneous 3d so the Z will always be in small steps because they can't move all three axis at the same time. I work with cnc's and printer is what we refer to at 21/2D.
  4. 2 points
    This is a common problem and trivial to fix. It usually happens when someone picks up the printer and they squeeze a long belt too hard and it skips a tooth. Push the print head to the center of each of the 4 sides and pay attention to the side blocks and see if they stop at the same point or if one can keep moving. Also look straight down on the two rods that pass through the head and see if they visually don't look quite square. If either of these are true then it's easy to fix. Here is one description of how to fix it: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  5. 2 points
    Mache ich dann in einem neuen Thread Ende August.🏖️
  6. 2 points
    Your question starts out very reasonable, but I wonder what you wanted to achieve by adding the "(better)" there. It makes me want to answer with "you may want to get a different (better) printer". Cura supports printing over USB. Ultimaker does not offer support for it though. It may work, it may not. If it doesn't for your printer, Ultimaker is not going to fix it for you. Perhaps you can ask your printer manufacturer to contribute a fix. My personal advice would be to get a Raspberry Pi (model 3 or 3+) and install OctoPrint on it. Then you can use the OctoPrint Connection plugin to send the gcode to your printer, and your Mac will not have to stay connected to the printer during the print.
  7. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  8. 2 points
    Don't know, if it helps, but once upon a time someone developed a similar thing with PHP, but with the "old" API (that needs authentication). It should be rather easier in your case. Here is a link to the topic:
  9. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  10. 2 points
    Below where it says "marketplace" in black there is a bar/button thing you click on and something pops up beneath it. At the bottom of that box is a blue button that either says "custom" or "recommended" click on that until it says "recommended". Now hopefully it is visible. If not try entering the letter Z in the search box just above the quality bar.
  11. 2 points
    So you need to be looking in the CuraEngine repo. The top-level infill code is in src/infill.h and src/infill.cpp. There are files in the src/infill directory that contain the code for specific infill types.
  12. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  13. 2 points
    You can always use a previous version of Cura, i'm guessing you are not missing a vital functionality that is only there in 4.2 ?
  14. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  15. 2 points
    No. The failed importing was because of a bug. Which is why we do betas 😉 It should be fixed for the 4.2 release. As for the profiles being worse, I wouldn't know. We got the pull request and a lot of people agreed that they were better (and no-one disagreed). We simply can't test any other printers than our own (and even if we could, it would be insanely expensive for us to do so).
  16. 2 points
    There's an option "Mesh Fixes -> Remove All Holes" which does exactly what you describe. Perhaps it is accidentally checked? 🤷‍♂️ Have you made a try with one of the default printing profiles?
  17. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschränkungen erreicht werden können. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber käme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da genügt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Heiß gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erklären, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil genügt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Weiß, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch wäre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. Länge etwas weiter ermöglichen würde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gruß, Digibike
  18. 2 points
    Hi The shapes of those holes looks just like mine did a month ago. All screws to the motor had gone loose so just tightened them and it was all good again.
  19. 2 points
    Wonder why there isn't any more discussion after August 7,2017? This is a fantastic design and topic.
  20. 2 points
    This is a work in progress. Since surgery, I am working with some side effects (still) so, I am slow and having to work bunches to get around them. Printed on the S5. This is the model on the build plate. Still not finished. Gotta really sharpen details and work a bit more on the overall bust. Sliced, you can see the details disappear..... Print is rough as hell....After years of no PVA issues, getting them now... ☹️
  21. 2 points
    With Cura 4.2 beta available now, it would help me if you tested this version of the sidebar gui plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-07-18T12_34_52Z.curapackage Download the file and drop it onto a running Cura 4.2 application window. Then restart Cura and it should have the sidebar gui.
  22. 2 points
    Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  23. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  24. 1 point
    See https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5265.
  25. 1 point
    Hallo Psychotron, es könnte folgendes sein: 1. Die Z-Achse Kabel könnte Schaden bekommen haben, ist zwar nicht durchgetrennt aber vielleicht nur noch 1 oder 2 Drähte haben noch Kontakt und haben nicht genug Ampere. 2. Die Treiber könnten beschädigt sein, sie leben nicht ewig. 3. Die Z-Beschleunig in der Firmware oder Slicer sind zu hoch. 4. Z-Achse klemmen ein bischen. Folgendes versuchen, starte ein Testdruck und gehe am Anfang auf ca. 10% Druckgeschwindigkeit runter und warte bis das Display die nächste Schicht anzeigt wie Z0.2 auf Z0.4 und beobachten ob die Z-Achse sich hebt oder senkt, wenn ja so lange mit Geschwindigkeit erhöhen bis auf 100% bzw. die Z-Achse sich nicht mehr hebt oder senkt. Wenn der Fall, dass vor 100% die Z-Achse sich nicht hebt oder senkt, dann Punkt 1-4 durch checken. Bei Manuell der Z-Achse senken (auch Xund Y) oder heben hat man eine andere i.d.R. eine niedrigere Beschleunigung und Geschwindigkeit als beim Drucken, weil der Slicer es so vorgibt, deswegen hat man da keine Probleme.
  26. 1 point
    Wer dennoch was Spitzes drucken möchte, kann über Stützstrucktur machen. Winkel auf 80° eingeben. Wenn das Stütztmaterial zu klein ist, kann über "Horizontale Erweiterung der Stützstrucktur" und "Stütz Brim aktivieren" auf 1 oder mehr eingeben und gegebenfalls Stützdach aktivieren. Die Pfeilerfunktion hätte sowieso keine Bedeutung, da Spitze auf Spitze nicht funktionieren würde.
  27. 1 point
    Not sure what you mean by combing not working but it could be related to That already has a fix: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1099
  28. 1 point
    All I can say is that the S5 is my favorite printer. The UM3 prints the same, I don't have a problem with that either, but I prefer to use the S5 for whatever reason. Personally I wouldn't buy a used printer. Since I think there must be a reason why someone buys such an expensive printer and then returns it. You can't be sure if these printers don't have a hidden fault that comes up later. Even if you still have a warranty, it's difficult to get the printer back to the dealer because of the size and weight of the printer. I have no experience with the other printers listed, but if I had to decide today to buy a new printer, I would buy another S5 without hesitation. There are some users here in the forum who are not satisfied with the S5 or have problems. I can't understand all these problems. I believe the users that they actually have problems, but I am sure that these problems are due to single exemplars and it is not a general problem. We have here in the forum mainly those users who have problems, on the other hand there are several thousands of users, especially in the industry who just print and have no problems.
  29. 1 point
    Alternatively you could get a UM3E with the bondtech feeder upgrades for abrasive filaments if you really need it. The 3E is cheaper than the S5, has a nice build volume (30*20*20), is dual print and can accept the CC core for abrasive if need be. It doesn't have the filament sensor, but I don't feel that this is such a deal breaker. Got mine for two years now, never been disappointed, every problem I encountered were due to user error, except a bent glass plate that was quickly replaced by my reseller free of charge, and solved thanks to the great poeple of this forum.
  30. 1 point
    you could download and install xampp, it would be easier for you to start programming. https://www.apachefriends.org/index.html
  31. 1 point
    You can't. They don't have enough room to store the entire xml file. They just hold an identifier (the GUID) that links them with an xml profile.
  32. 1 point
    Hi Tinkergnome Nein du hast nichts verpasst denke ich. Ich nutzte kein Simplify3D, da ich es nicht mag. Aber ich habe das einmal zufällig in einem YT Video gesehen, dass das so geht.
  33. 1 point
    4.3.96 had a bug where it fails to update when there is no network connection to a time server. When the printer can't set the current time it will fail with the verify error. Do you have a network connection? Can you reach the printer from Cura? This is another method for setting the time in the printer.
  34. 1 point
    We decided against the homing before resuming because the switches do have a small tolerance. The accuracy is good enough for homing but was never intended to be used as an absolute accurate position calibration. A shift problem after a material change during a print is rare. The motors remain engaged to keep the position locked and it requires considerable force to move the head but it is possible. As suggested, another cause for the shift could be a glass plate shift, this can't be detected or fixed. I'll keep an open eye for more problem reports of this type.
  35. 1 point
    I'm having to answer the same question in multiple places, multiple times a day, so I guess I need to do some explaining. An updated version of the OctoPrint Connection plugin is needed for Cura 4.2 and 4.2.1. This updated version of the plugin has been submitted to the Marketplace, but at this time is still awaiting approval. For the time being, you can download the version that is compatible with Cura 3.5 all the way to Cura 4.2.1 here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-08-02T07_23_49Z.curapackage Download the file and drop it onto a running Cura application window. Then restart Cura. Update: An updated version of the OctoPrint Connection plugin is now available in the MarketPlace. Each version of the OctoPrint Connection plugin has an built-in check to see what version of Cura it is running on: It specifies a minimum and maximum version it is compatible with. I check the plugin with each released version of Cura before submitting a version that is specifically marked as compatible with that version of Cura. I started doing this more than a year ago because on multiple occasions the plugin got the rug pulled from underneath it by changes to Cura between versions; at more than one point, having the previous version of the plugin installed with the new version of Cura would have stopped Cura from starting, even leading to certain versions of the plugin having to be specifically blacklisted in Cura. I normally try to update the plugin during the beta period for a new version of Cura, so that the updated version of the plugin is available through the Marketplace when the stable version is launched. In this case I submitted the updated version a week before the launch of the stable version. Unfortunately, the time between the launch of the beta and stable versions of Cura is a busy time for the Cura team, so approval of new plugins sometimes gets delayed. There was an additional issue with the "contributors portal" where new versions of plugins are submitted which has further delayed the release of the updated plugin. I will discuss with the Cura team if my additional compatibility checks are still necessary so this hopefully will no longer be an issue going forward.
  36. 1 point
    go to 3dsolex.com. They have 1.75mm conversion kits for UM2. The UM2 "plus" feeder can grip and push 1.75mm just fine as is. The absolute minimum is to modify just the teflon part so it's possible you could just buy that only. But I recommend you get the whole kit which includes a heater block as well.
  37. 1 point
    I got it working with 2,85mm filament, i ordered 26mm Stainless Steel heat break with teflon PTFE tube for 3mm filament ( 26mm heatbreak withe PTFE on aliexpress ) , Teflon PTFE tube OD 4mm / ID 3mm on aliexpress Have it working for a few weeks now without problems
  38. 1 point
    when i download a new version do i have todelet the old one before
  39. 1 point
    Thinking about it some more, I would imagine that Ultimaker's Cura should make a reasonable job of your print if you use a line width of about 0.2mm and enable spiralization. You also need to set the number of bottom layers to 0 so that the spiralization starts from the very bottom.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    The printer definition is now included in the standard Cura installation (from Version 4.1 on). If you have copied the json-files to the configuration folder in the past, you may want to clean this up and re-add the printer in Cura, but that's it. There are no manual steps necessary anymore.
  42. 1 point
    Modified from a previous design published by others. I have shortened and broadened the retainer clip, so that it wouldn't crash against the glass doors when printing an object that reaches to the very front of the build plate. Note that this design is specific to the S5. I strongly advise to always use this retainer clip. I have completely destroyed a printhead because the front disengaged from its wimpy little magnets and crashed into the model (fortunately UM accepted that this was a warranty issue). https://grabcad.com/library/1033247
  43. 1 point
    After the new "Lost in Space" series came out, I guess that I started having fond memory's of my child hood and decided to go create a toy I never had back then. If you are looking at the photo and wondering, yes, it is floating in mid air. The magnetic levitation system does work nicely. Unfortunately this all the higher it can fly, so making orbit is going to be a bit tricky. The model is 8" in diameter, made on my Ultimaker II+ using Matter Hacker build silver PLA and IC3D natural PLA. I built the CAD model using an old version of Pro-E. When I first started this project I was amazed that there is not a single correct geometry for the original Jupiter II. My model is based on the special effects models that had compound curvature on the main part of the upper hull, making it look like a part of a sphere. The full scale set model, however, had straight sided walls, as though it were part of a cone. I guess that the set model was just plywood wrapped around forms and the compound curvature was just to much. I have debated on painting the model to hide the seams and the printing artifacts. It is puttied, sanded smooth and polished. The putty I came up with is kind of interesting. I used 15 minute epoxy with milled fiber added and some silver paint. I worried if the paint would actual dry encased in the epoxy, but it did. After sanding the entire assembled model and polishing it the seams look acceptable, sort of like a full scale manufacturing seam, not that there was such a thing visible on the TV show. Fun blast from the past. Steven
  44. 1 point
    I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else. The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down. For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.
  45. 1 point
    Here it is :) I have a UMO+ (with UM2 white Board) - the small fan is 24V - the 2 side fans are 12v but they react weirdly: you have to put it full speed in order to have them working. maybe I will change them for better one. - the bushings have a little mechanical play => I have kept the orginal ones from my UMO+ - I have also kept the 40W heat cartridge and the PT100 from the UMO+ - I ran a PID tunning and the PID are very far from the original ones : Original PID : P:22.2 I 1.08 D 114 new ones : P :18.53 I 1.05 D 80.25 Work to be done : - change position the Y limit switch : the aluminium block is larger than the original UMO support => mechanical stop in the aluminium block rather than in the limit switch - print some T° testing towers - and go for carbon filament printing ^^
  46. 1 point
    What kind of printer do you have? You need to: Get a heated bed that can go up to 160C (simple enough - add a supplemental heater and let the built in heater regulate the temp) Air temp needs to be 65C so you need to enclose the printer Servos need to be cooled (65C will destroy servos, 40C is safe) Nozzle needs to be able to get to 400C (this is maybe the easiest part usually as there are so many hot ends for sale out there to choose from). Teflon melts before 400C so you need an all metal hot end. Which won't work with PLA (can't use PLA with all metal hot ends). More info:
  47. 1 point
    I developed a web application by PHP. If I want to use POST print_job, do I need to generate new id and key every time? Because I found that a previous authorized id and key would be unauthorized next time. By the way, do I need to set api key? Thank you very much!
  48. 1 point
    Without doubt that will be the short belts need tightening, check the manual of how to do it. It's easy. I am assuming you are printing this part flat rather than vertical.
  49. 1 point
    AWS has VPN connections specifically for this: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/AmazonVPC/latest/UserGuide/VPC_VPN.html I agree with ahoeben, only do this if you are sure of what you are doing.
  50. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    It is a spare part of a Philips Hair Clipper !
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