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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/29/2021 in all areas

  1. This project is very much alive! We've not been spending 100% of our time on it (since we also had to work on the CAD file importing, which took a fair chunk of our time). We are currently picking up some work for Arachne again. As it stands, we will have at least one aditional pre-release of Arachne before the full release. I expect that there might be a few more prereleases, as the changes are pretty big, so we really need to get things right!
    4 points
  2. As others have written already, it is incredibly convenient when combined with a material station (and multiple printers) for the S5. Personally, for spools which I "load and use to completion" (such as DPA or PVA support material) I usually don't bother adding an NFC tag to them -- there's not much being time saved. However for spools that I need to load/unload several times (such as rarely used colours or materials) having them be autodetected by way of an NFC tag is an incredible convenience. It also takes the uncertainty out of asking somebody not used to the printe
    3 points
  3. It's a know problem of the slicing engine. You can play with a different line width but often you cannot get rid of it. But download and try the new Arachne engine alpha/beta Cura. I use it since the first alpha version and I don't see this issue anymore.
    3 points
  4. Hi @UALib3D, I've just printed your model using Cura 4.10.0 and Arachne engine beta. Printed it with black TPLA as it (black color) have better emission than any other color. As I've an UMS3, I used same print quality profile (corrected with your setting and those I've added). Made some pictures of the two prints in daylight for better details.. The first two pictures is just finished printing with Cura 4.10.0 : In this two pictures above you can see the boundary between the support and the model. The support just snap
    3 points
  5. J'aimerais connaître le nombre de personnes qui n'ont posté qu'une seule fois et que l'on ne voit plus? Et sur ce nombre, combien ont lâché complètement l'impression3d car ils pensaient que c'était facile et qu'il suffisait d'appuyer sur un bouton. (Car ils ignoraient tout l'amont de la chose notamment la conception de la pièce en 3d)
    3 points
  6. Very interresting, exactly what I was waiting for !
    3 points
  7. No it is not. The bug that this thread is discussing caused the renamed printer to revert back after a restart. You have hit a particular case of "known behavior". In your case, you are trying to rename the printer to a name that is already taken up internally, so Cura adds the number (" #2"). You can rename the printer to anything other than the name without the "#2" postfix, and the rename should work.
    2 points
  8. @Dan92 en modélisation oui il faut de la rigueur. Bien que ce soit fait par ordinateur, si il y a une erreur c'est parfois/souvent de la faute de la personne qui est devant son écran. Mais ça s'apprend au fur et à mesure malheureusement il n'y a pas encore de bouton magique pour sortir ce que l'on veut 🙂 C'est d'ailleurs pour cela que lorsque l'on me demande de modéliser un personnage, je ne peux pas le sortir pour 20€ au grand désarroi de certains ^^ Donc non seulement il faut de la rigueur mais aussi du temps, des tests, qui forgent l'expérience. @Nano-nc et @darkdvd, niveau cylindre, j'a
    2 points
  9. Cura works in millimeters, are you sure you didn't accidentally export at the wrong scale from your CAD program?
    2 points
  10. #metoo Ultimaker disappointed me too with there Apple style approach of GUI's. We are engineers! We have to deal with technical systems. As ZD3D calls it, not with toys. An simple temperature indication would have safe me an hour on finding out the wrong profile was selected for some part. Feed-rate an speed are also not that hard to plot on the GUI. And maybe it's the lake of processing power for the display but the "fade" effect between selection and menus is on addition of the poor rotary button extremely toy feeling. Please give us tools to work with. Not a toy with one play button!
    2 points
  11. Hi all, We've released 6.5.0 for the S-line printers to the latest firmware channel. There's some real nice updates in there, check out the release notes page. Just to highlight a few: Scan USB drive for material profiles. It will now be possible to add a material profile to the S-line printer from a USB drive. The printer can update its material list with any missing material profiles found in the print job files (UFP files) of an inserted USB stick. Import the profile by navigating to maintenance -> import material profiles. This allows for offline
    2 points
  12. It is easy to find the Cura.log file. Open Cura, got to the HELP menu, there you find a topic with Show configuration folder, click on it. Then am explorer window opens with the folder and there you find the Cura.log file. You should also understand that a log file is needed to get more informations about the problem. Just to say it is not working is not enough to find and reproduce an failure, so it is fully understandable that they need this information. Anyway, now you know where to find the Cura.log file and you should be able to open an issue again on Github
    2 points
  13. OK, so this is the print of Pyramid 5. There is very little difference between the two methods of spiralize. One with smoothing on (left side) and one with smoothing off (right Side). Not really much difference. Could have tweaked the settings to get the top to print better, but it was not the issue. Also lousy trimming of the brim. However, after re-reading the OP, I noticed it did mention using Pyramid 4 and I found the issue immediately: Here you can see that a straight slice produces the holes, or gaps. I used Cura 4.8, but have no expectation that there would be any
    2 points
  14. This is not a model error. This is the setting "Enable coasting". You can find this setting way down in the Experimental tab in cura. It is probably enabled in your given printer profile. This is just disabled in a generic new one. You can use your given profile and just disable this setting. What this does is it stops extruding material just a bit before it reaches the end of the line. This last bit is displayed as a travel move in the layer preview. The purpose is to use the molten filament in the nozzle for the last bit of a line instead of extruding unt
    2 points
  15. Actually, I made it all up. I have no idea if any of that is true or not.🤪 Cura shows the extrusion moves and with coasting enabled there is no extrusion there. The nozzle travels there so that little part is a continuation (vector wise) but there is no E in the line of gcode so the pressure just bleeds off across that distance.
    2 points
  16. Unfortunately, there is no way to do that with a cutting mesh. The cutting mesh cuts the model into multiple parts, and they will all have their own walls.
    2 points
  17. Hi @Smithy and @Josh_gpi, For the lab, I bought several extra glass beds. For more finicky prints we use the Ultimaker adhesion sheets. Spares are great to have. Yes, we attached the magnetic sheet on glass and that works great with active leveling. You can also, if you feel it is too close, use the z offset plugin and add some Z + if you feel the active leveling is too close. I know we've done all sorts of stuff on them but I can't recall if we have done PC on it. On their website they offer some guidance... PEX Build Surface
    2 points
  18. Schön wäre es, vor allem günstiger wenn man sie sich selbst züchten könnte 🙂
    2 points
  19. Bei deiner Druckerfarm macht ein Lüfter mehr oder weniger auch keinen Unterschied mehr 🙂
    2 points
  20. I passed on this one because there isn't any real information. A project file would be good. Knowing the Operating System and maybe even the video sub-system would be nice. Knowing your printer would be a help as well. Why did you bring up Firewall? Were there previous issues with your installation? Is Octoprint involved? Just providing the Cura.log file might give evidence of the "What" but probably not the "Why" and having to muddle through a 1mb text file is not one of my favorite things.
    2 points
  21. Calm down. People just didn't spot your message. Note that this is the forum of Ultimaker, so most people have experience with Ultimakers, so any help you will get here will be mostly focussed on that. Your first point of contact should always be whomever made your machine; They know most about it and should provide you with support if you need it. That being said; I don't have your model, so i can't see what the problem is.
    2 points
  22. The cause of this is probably that the walls are too thin. You could use print thin walls. Or use Arachne, there I could slice it perfectly, because of the variable line widths. See here: Here you can read more about our Arachne Engine: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/Arachne_engine_beta
    2 points
  23. I got tired of whisps of filament jamming the front fan so I designed this. Used 0.015" stainless steel mesh.
    2 points
  24. Also wie erwähnt, es druckt sich wunderbar ohne viel herumtricksen, hier der Cheat Sheet für Cura und Drucker: https://addnorth.com/knowledge/articles/petg-cura-cheat-sheet Nur den Infill auf max 40mm/s setzen, bei 50mm/s hatte ich ein paar Probleme, aber ich denke das kommt auf die Größe des Objekts an. Z-Hop brauchst eigentlich gar nicht aktivieren und Brim brauchte ich bisher auch nicht. Desweiteren benutze ich noch die Glasplatte mit 3DLAC, nach der Abkühlung gehts easy runter.
    2 points
  25. In Cura 4.9, the Top/Bottom settings moved from the Shell category to a Top/Bottom category. Pro-tip: there's a search field on top of the settings list. You can type the name of a setting there.
    2 points
  26. Oh my god, you just saved my life. Google failed me with results. Thank you for this!!!!
    2 points
  27. je me rappelle aussi d'un post convivial où les plus passionnés venaient délirer ,"un café entre ami" inauguré par @DidierKlein . le dernier message est de @zizon et date de avril 2019. C'est un signe.... c'est depuis ce temps là que tout fout le camp. encore la faute du covid
    2 points
  28. Au moins ce sujet a fait sortir de l'ombre des anciens qui prenaient le frais au fond d'un placard. c'est plaisant de vous lire. coucou @zizon @DidierKlein Globalement d'accord avec vos arguments, j'ai appris a me servir de mes imprimantes grâce à ce forum. Merci à ces anciens . Aujourd'hui je tente d'être toujours présent car je tiens à transmettre humblement ce que je crois savoir pour rendre au forum ce qu'il m'a apporté. Respect au tôlier @darkdvd qui dégaine plus vitre que son ombre pour répondre... il doit avoir une montre connectée sur le forum😊. Je ne suis pas
    2 points
  29. Hi all, Havent posted in a while due to taking a bit of time out during covid, but now am back and more motivated than ever hopefully, Just finished this off for a friend, and the compartment was a last minute addition, just drilled out and slotted in, I havent made many functioning parts but it works well and the tolerance is so tight inside that the pot slides out like the lid of a new iphone box, smooooothly. So satisfying. Ill post a quick vid soon, but have already given the it to the new owner and not taken enough photos lol. Not sure how much ashes actually go in an urn so maybe if
    2 points
  30. Very nice and looks more than a porcelan model than a 3D printed one.
    2 points
  31. One more point, I print since the "release" of the alpha version with it, and I have absolutely no problems. And I really like the new engine, it is so much better with curves and such things, that I never looked back to the normal version.
    2 points
  32. Yes it is still alive and yes you can install it in parallel. Not 100% sure about the profiles, but normally when you install a different version, all your settings will be copied to the new configuration folder.
    2 points
  33. For me personally first and foremost, I like to work on tech projects among my many other types of projects, so its fun for me. Learning about the intimate details of NFC tags/data also allows me to be able to use that knowledge in other projects as well in the future. That thought process really does open a Lot of doors in terms of what you're able to do on your own without a having to be at the mercy of a company to design/make something for you. What initially caught my interest was the filament usage data and how Cura will let me know what rolls I currently have loaded on the machine. I ha
    2 points
  34. Hi all, following this video I was playing with Z hop to print an inlay on the bottom of my print (the TL;DR is print the small inlay first, then print the rest with Z hop enabled to a value higher than the inlay height). It works well, but there's a caveat: on a printer with an imprecise Z axis (like my Ender 3), having Z hop enabled can lead to a messy print, as the imprecisions on the Z will sum up quickly with every hop. Leaving aside the obvious fact that the Z precision should be high enough to be able to use Z hop for the whole print, the next best way would be to disable th
    2 points
  35. @Smithy- They are printed and they are great indeed. By far the better ones I have found so far. I scaled them to 50% as they are for small components, I have attached them for your convenience 🙂 Maybve scale the drawer 1% more, but depends on your printer I suppose. Regards, Friedl. CUBE_-_Modular_Organiser.zip
    1 point
  36. Hi Karla The problem is the M1 Chip of your device. Cura is currently not compatible 100% with the M1. I have the same issue on a MacBook and iMac both M1. The older Intel Macs are working fine. As far as I understood, the root cause it not Cura itself but a library which is itself not ready for M1. And updating to the last version would break compatibility with older Mac OS versions. But the developers are aware of the issue and I am sure they find a solution.
    1 point
  37. In the beginning I used the glue stick (without wiping it afterwards, I didn't know that trick back then). But this gave an ugly bottom layer indeed, and non-optimal bonding. I also tried printing on bare glass without any glue: in dry weather this would work reasonably, but in wet weather it would lift off and cause defects like yours. Also, greasy glass would cause this effect. Cleaning with soap and window-cleaner can also produce this, since soap reduces bonding: you can't glue anything to soap. So, now I thoroughly degrease the glass first, and then wash it with pure luke-warm
    1 point
  38. Thanks for the feedback! Have you also changed the combing setting? If you haven't turned it off completely, you can try to set max comb distance to 8mm, this should help with the massive strings in the print.
    1 point
  39. I looked at the Gcode. Combing tends to run the nozzle all over the place to keep stringing at a minimum but it never has a Z component. It never combs up and down. (You do have Z-hop enabled at a height of 0.6mm.) The last full layer is Layer 68 in the Cura preview. Layer 69 looks correct right on top of it. I would say that the preview is correct and what I expected to see. Within the gcode, Layers start with layer 0. The gcode layers are every .2mm all through the area of interest. Layer 66 is at 13.4 Layer 67 is at 13.6 (this is layer 68 in the Cura preview)
    1 point
  40. I agree with Smithy above. Drawn a quick "mock-up" and created an .stl this is what it should look like, also added some Rad to strengthen the fins. The GREEN arrow shows the "Start Point" - As you can see there's only 1. Your model shows 3, which suggests it's not connected.
    1 point
  41. If you install the Printer Settings plugin, you can tell Cura you have a 1.0 mm nozzle (without having to edit configuration files manually).
    1 point
  42. Noch etwas ist mir eingefallen, für den Fan Shroud brauchst du noch ein bisschen Kapton Tape welches du dann innen im Bereich den Olsson Blocks klebst, damit dir das Ding nicht zu viel Hitze abbekommt.
    1 point
  43. Nimm den vom Labern den habe ich am UM2Go in Verwendung und bin recht zufrieden damit. Und der Go hat den gleichen Druckkopf wie dein UM2.
    1 point
  44. Ich glaube, mittlerweile habe ich ca 15KG Breakaway durch. Das PVA was mitgeliefert wird, ist zum Teil noch originalverpackt, als Breakaway auf den Markt kam, habe ich es gleich getestet und ich empfehle es seitdem immer, unsere Kunden bekommen mit jedem Kauf eines Ultimakers eine gratis Spule Breakaway und ein Dimafix. Drucken soll Spaß machen und mit dem richtigen Zubehör hat man gleich weniger Probleme.
    1 point
  45. Here's a dedicated utility to upload a .hex file to the controller: https://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-xloader
    1 point
  46. Those two you mentioned or Aquasys120.
    1 point
  47. Merci à tous pour vos réponses, je suis assez d'accord avec la majorité de ce qui a été dit. C'est vrai qu'au début de ma fréquentation du forum l'ambiance était plutôt sympa, on avait un peu l'impression de se retrouver autour d'un verre pour discuter d'impression 3d maintenant la plupart des gens viennent en effet avec des problèmes dont la solution est trouvable facilement et sans vraiment réfléchir ou s'investir plus loin. Enfin content de voir que les anciens sont toujours la ^^
    1 point
  48. It has USB on one end and Micro USB on the other. We found it much easier to remove the camera housing from the printer frame open the case and change the Camera Board ONLY (by un-plugging the micro USB end and replacing). A lot easier than trying to re-route the new cable. Really simple and easy to do.
    1 point
  49. Maybe but I think it's backwards - I think prusa slicer automatically fixes many model errors. I really don't know which is true.
    1 point
  50. Dear Cura team I have a problem with Keep/discard when changing profiles. This function seems like good idea, but it allways make a lot of problems. It causes some unexpected changes does not matter what if you choose keep or discard.... I know it is probably high-tech function and if I take a week, I will understand it. But I do not have fudging week to learn to respect so unsuccessful disfunctions like this...!!!! Is there anybody who use this function successfully??? or is it just a programators love...? (i use cur
    1 point
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