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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2020 in all areas

  1. Nice! Do you have an undercarriage with electronics and motor already? Anyway, here's a print from my side. It's actually one print. Wooden parts: 0.8mm PLA with Natural Wood "Metal" parts: .25 nozzle, Tough PLA. All the parts were printed on one S5 plate with dual extrusion. So you basically print a DIY model kit. It's 12cm long like this. 🙂
    4 points
  2. Hello everyone, We don't often release an alpha version of Ultimaker Cura... So what's different this time? Well, this Ultimaker Cura alpha contains such a huge slicing engine overhaul that we really need your help! We want to give users the chance to test this early release as soon as possible. Your feedback is vital to help us release the very best stable version of Ultimaker Cura in 2021. So what's the big change? The Ultimaker Cura slicing algorithm is enhanced with the Arachne code library. This fundamentally changes how Ultimaker Cu
    4 points
  3. Thanks, but the amazing part of the work is done by @FormerLurker; my plugin is just the glue between Cura and his ArcWelder application.
    3 points
  4. You have a few features to enable/disable here to improve the view. First of all you should zoom in (scroll wheel) and pan (hold down shift key, right click drag). across the top of the screen look for "color scheme". First try "filament". I think that's what you have it set on in the lower photo. You can change the filament color by loading different colors in the PREPARE screen and reslicing. Then in "color scheme" try "line type". I know you don't like that but it's very useful. Yes the outer layer is red and very dark. You can scroll through all the layers -
    3 points
  5. Setting just... "settable_per_mesh": true did the trick. I can now select the extruder for INFILL "per model" Lovely!
    2 points
  6. At first, I thought: are you really going to slide downhill in a 3D-printed sled? What if it breaks? But then I saw the dimensions: 12cm. :-) The first photo, it laying upside down, looks really convincing.
    2 points
  7. Thanks, yes it was indeed. On my couch, beer, TV, cats 😻
    2 points
  8. Very cool, the Natural Wood looks amazing.
    2 points
  9. Hello Everybody! My brother in law has made a Crealty ender printer 6 profile for Mac and Windows. We have done some test prints and it looks promising. Please give us comments if you encounter any problems. otherwise have fun printing whit this profile!! Crealty_ender_6_printer profile cura_resources.zip
    2 points
  10. I have created a new development snapshot which includes an OS X executable of the ArcWelder console application that I manually built on an OS X 10.12 virtual machine and which seems to work there.
    2 points
  11. I believe I found a use for "Mesh Fixes | Remove all Holes". The back legs aren't on the build surface and require support. I randomly set it to 10% scale because it came in sized for a Jolly Green Giant. Sinking it into the build plate 2mm worked to flatten the bottom. I'd use a brim because the contact patches of the rear legs is pretty small for the lean angle they end up at before they merge into the rest.
    2 points
  12. Try re-formatting the SD card and blow out the card slot in the printer. Have you ever used Cura to send a print over the USB? If you have, and you know the computer and printer can communicate, then you can hook it up to the computer, start Cura, load a gcode file (or slice something) and go to the Monitor screen. Try sending G28 from Cura and see if it the printer homes. If that stuff doesn't work you can try sending M502. That will do a full reset back to factory defaults. You will lose your Home Offsets and Steps/mm calibration stuff. You should be able to get those from the pri
    2 points
  13. Glad we could help! Do you need installation instructions? I've got them here.
    2 points
  14. so nun hat es geklappt der Drucker läuft wieder , ich bin strickt nach dieser Anleitung vorgegangen : https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20024-recovering-a-bricked-um3/ vielleicht hat auch mal jemand das Problem.
    2 points
  15. Sieht nach 3D Lab Print Tragflächen-Part aus... D.h. du kämpfst mit Thin Walls. Da gibts ein paar Fallstricke... Wieviel Erfahrung hast mit solchen Parts und was für Einstellungen nimmst du? Cura Projekt wäre da wohl Sinnvoll, allerdings ohne das Modell - da sind Lizensrechte drauf.... Höchstens es gibt Bsp. Parts öffentlich zum testen. Alles andere darfst nicht teilen... Gruß Digibike
    2 points
  16. Great to hear the link to the recovery image helped you out. I updated the post to link to the latest 5.2.16 image.
    2 points
  17. Yeah, in 4.6.1 with the "h" up almost all the lettering disappears. With the "h" down there are a couple letters missing. Fixing the model....hhmm. OK, I went to NetFab and had the model repaired. Here it is sliced in 4.8.0 with a .4 nozzle. Orientation doesn't matter. Everything is there. @Migael, the reason I asked if you buried the lettering into the model is that I do a lot of this and the surface I want the lettering on isn't always flat and may in fact be a compound curve. Sometimes I want the lettering to flow with the surface and not be planar on
    2 points
  18. I have MacOS 11.0 - Cura 4.8 - and fixed it with - Adding Cura to "Security & Privacy" - "Privacy" - "Full Disk Access"
    2 points
  19. Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
    2 points
  20. Some settings in Cura are a child of another setting; in the settings view they are "indented". As a general rule, if a setting has a child, only that child gets used by CuraEngine. The values for "Line Width" and "Wall Line Width" are not actually used by CuraEngine. Instead it only looks at "Outer Wall Line Width", "Inner Wall(s) Line Width", "Top/Bottom Line Width", "Infill Line Width" and "Skirt/Brim Line Width". The Line Width setting is there as a convenience to setting/affecting all the line widths in one go; by default the children of the Line Width setting
    2 points
  21. My experience with CPE. After I finished the test PLA that came with my Ender 3 V2 I print only CPE - from two different producers and different colours. It took me almost one month to set the correct temperatures. 1. Here in the forum is described how to prepare the bed. In my case I cleaned the bare glass and sprayed it with hair spray - very light. That was before may be 16-17 prints. I haven't cleaned it or sprayed it again ever since. The models are sticking perfectly (I was surprised with the last as it is air plane tale without support, only raft). 2. Check
    2 points
  22. Next to the "search" box at the top of the settings is an icon. Click on it and select "all" so unhide all the Cura settings. There are a lot of settings under "Support". One of them is an option called Support Placement. If "Touching Buildplate" is enabled then those gaps won't be supported. Change it to "everywhere" and the supports will show up. That is a fussy model. The small features on the ends of the legs would print best as your second photo shows. If the sides were parallel instead of at a small angle it would print best laying down with a support blocker over
    2 points
  23. All I can say is wow. I will have to go check the settings if they need to be more specific. But I downloaded the new Arachne Software yesterday. Since that time, I printed a Water Tower and a Raspberry Pi case. With this update, I have had no under extrusion, stringing, and no blobs, that I have had in the latest stable version of Cura 4.8. This is the first time since upgrading to a direct drive (which has given me slight headaches since June/July) that I am a thoroughly happy Ender 3 Pro consumer again. I'm really tempted to run a lithophane print on this and compare it to
    2 points
  24. My deepest apologies. I fixed the problem by going right back to basics in Manage Printers then selecting Connect Octoprint and resetting my API key and requesting authorisation again. I think that error should say something like "Can't reach Octoprint API - Check your API Key and Octoprint URL", as that was the source, rather than a python error. Thanks for your time
    2 points
  25. 3DPrince - I have taken all of the online tutorial materials and put them into a bookmarked PDF for myself, and I am attaching that PDF here. To the moderator: if you wish to post the PDF online for those who prefer PDF to online tutorials, please feel free to do so. The more people using the PDF, the greater the reward for taking the time to assemble it! Cura User Manual.pdf
    2 points
  26. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
    2 points
  27. Open %APPDATA%\cura\4.7\cura.cfg in a texteditor (eg notepad). In the [general] section, remove the lines starting with window_left and window_right Save the file and try starting Cura again. If that worked, go into the General preferences and uncheck the option to "Restore window position on start".
    2 points
  28. Instructions - Copy the text (except the instructions at the beginning) of this log file and paste it at the end of your EndG-code in the Machine Settings window of your printer - After that all your GCode files will have at the end a complete list of your current settings for each print here a picture of a few lines of the result Very useful if you want to compare settings with someone else Also if you are analysing results vs settings, just put them in a spreadsheet to focus on the changing parameters very easily Notice ther
    2 points
  29. Eine Suche nach "blackprint" liefert immer nur dieses hier.... was mache ich falsch 🙂
    1 point
  30. Avec une buse de 1.6, oui mais certainement pas avec une buse de 0.4, a cette température le PLA s'autodetruit 😁
    1 point
  31. I just wanted to circle back and thank everyone for their advice. I ended up replacing the front and back slider blocks.
    1 point
  32. I think the according "quality" files are missing (at least). It claims to have some machine specific profiles: "has_machine_quality": true The quality files in your attachment are the default (generic) files from Cura - don't overwrite these. The same goes for the fdmprinter / fdmextruder files - don't change those, let your definition inherit from the newer files of Cura 4.8. There's a chance that it has it's own material files too, all generic materials are excluded in the definition. This may be specific to your customized Cura version, but check the material
    1 point
  33. Holes create a special problem. The nozzle drags the plastic in a circle and the plastic wants to cut corners so it pulls towards the center making an ID smaller You don't notice it as much on an OD because usually there is an inner wall to act as a dam to keep the plastic outboard. How much it pulls to the middle is affected by a lot of things. The phenomenon is known as the Gr5 Snot Factor after it's discoverer who had a runny nose at the time. The Shell | Hole Horizontal Expansion setting can be used to enlarge a hole. Not all holes are round, it acts on any vertical holes
    1 point
  34. I wanted to share a fun project I made last month. I created a smart air filtration system for a Ultimaker S3: Building an Air Filtration System for a 3D Printer https://mikebuss.com/2021/01/06/3d-printer-filtration/ I would be happy to answer any questions people have! I attached some photos of the project as well.
    1 point
  35. Copied from someone else - I didn't write 99% of what is below but I think it's very useful - especially if you are messing with json files on your UM3 and it stops booting. you'll find a recovery image here: recovery.img. You can install this update by putting this image in a micro sd card - but don't just copy the file there you have to do a special process to make it a bootable sd card. here is a nice guide on putting a disk image on a sd card: https://www.hifiberry.com/build/documentation/create-sd-card-from-img-file/ If you are working with MacOS, you can better use ApplePie baker:
    1 point
  36. Let's say you've made your daughter a doll house and it is an exact 1/100 scale model of your own house right down to the fence around the yard. You can paint the real fence around your yard with a 100mm brush. You cannot use the same brush on the fence around your daughters doll house. You would need to scale the brush down. A ledge that was 1mm wide at 100% is now .35mm wide and maybe less than 1 nozzle / line width. The only fix I've found is to scale the nozzle along with the part. If your previews are with a .4 nozzle then switch to a .2 nozzle and .2 line width and you will
    1 point
  37. My current workaround is by using HTML plugin: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings I export all settings to HTML file then read it in my Python program and pass settings to CuraEngine. I'm still testing this and one of the things that still has to be resolved is material profile. I need diameter and density to calculate material weight and also I need to check material compatibility with printer.
    1 point
  38. PLA is less flexible than PETG. I'm not sure about ABS. Regarding torque loading, wall thickness is your friend. Consider the driveshaft on a rear wheel drive vehicle. It's hollow.
    1 point
  39. Look up! The model was somehow placed high above the buildplate. This is a known bug in Cura, which has not yet been fixed for future versions as far as I know. Use Command+A to select all objects, and then use the move tool panel to reset the Z to 0.
    1 point
  40. Hi Michael, 1252 is the right part number and I do agree it sounds like your screen. Your reseller can order it in for you--I'm not sure where you're located. But if you're in the US I have it here and it can ship Monday.
    1 point
  41. Pause At Height is not good when Adaptive Layers are enabled, or when Z-hops are enabled. In the case of adaptive layers, since the layer height varies and since a search for the Z height is vary specific, the chances of entering a Z that is actually present in the file is like picking a number for the lottery. When Z-hops are enabled the Z jumps up and down and Pause at Height picks the first instance of the Z that it comes across. That may not (often is not) the working Z height but rather a Z-hop height. When the script continues after the pause it will seem to skip a layer or two. It
    1 point
  42. Not all spare parts are listed in the webshop, but your reseller can order any spare part you need. And maybe @fbrc8-erin can help you directly.
    1 point
  43. The STL file doesn't help because it doesn't have any settings in it. Please provide a "Project File" so people can tell how you set up Cura to slice the model. As with many "character" models, this model has problems. It is not "watertight" and that model file is HUGE. Try printing something simpler, but that needs some support. You still haven't mentioned what printer it is. You might need to calibrate your E-steps. There are numerous "Flow" settings in Cura. Search the settings for "Flow" and make sure they are at 100%. Make sure you have "Retraction"
    1 point
  44. That menu does not control the front fan. That menu controls the side fans. The front fan is controlled by the firmware and will automatically run when the nozzle is at 50 C.
    1 point
  45. Je pense qu'il y a moyen de faire un objet simple type cube ou autre et de le placer dans Cura avec une propriété différente (genre infill mesh) et de définir le remplissage à 0% ça devrait pouvoir t'aider. Un peu comme j'avais expliqué dans cette vidéo:
    1 point
  46. Please add this feature - with a warning pop-up if necessary. I've just accidentally started a print in Cura (no warning pop-up here...) before finalizing print settings; I've aborted it straight away but nevertheless I now need to move my but to the printer's location (at work, and I'm at home) just to press a button (well - a touchscreen)... For a 5-6k $/€ printer (S5) that's a pretty huge annoyance.
    1 point
  47. I've printed PLA as cool as 175C. That's about the limit for me personally. Usually I print much hotter. Look for posts by "neotko" in this forum. He is the expert on this feature and has gotten it to work better than anyone. Anyone. lol. e.g. in google do: site:ultimaker.com neotko ironing Older posts will be more informative in this rare case. He might have called it by something else? I think he always called it "ironing". Also consider your nozzle tip. What is the diameter of the "shoulder" (the flat part) and the diameter of the no
    1 point
  48. @neotko just ist watched your video on cabling the Duet3D board in the UM2. What firmware are you using? Marlin ported or another one? You then use the Duet display with, not the UM2 built in anymore? Cura works with it? What do you have to configure? As my UM2 board on my 2nd printer is broken (see other post) I am thinking about how large the Duet3D mod is in comparison to repairing the UM2 board... ;-)
    1 point
  49. There is a feature that keeps the extruders from moving unless the nozzle is above 170C. So either heat up the nozzle, or issue a M302 which will allow cold extrusions (until the next power cycle).
    1 point
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