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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Reporting back, that after a couple prints completed now, my material station and S5 are performing perfectly. Knowing what to expect for operation with the Material Station, so that I stopped shutting it down in a panic, has made things much better. The panic shut downs had made the problems even worse to get worked out. One more thought is that if the S5 display could say something useful like: "Material Station purge in process, Nozzle 1" , instead of the usual "Preparing to print" , Users would be less apt to panic. Use the screen to tell users more of what is going on with the machine please. Thank you all.
  2. 2 points
    Hallo das kann 2 Ursachen haben. Entweder der Clip in Form des Hufeisens (blau) ist zu dünn, da könntest du einen dickeren drucken oder etwas unterlegen, dann wird der Bowden Schlauch besser gespannt. Oder und das vermute ich eher, dass die Steckverbindung selbst nicht mehr so funktioniert wie es sollte. Da sind kleine Metallklingen drinnen, die den Schlauch halten. Ich würde einen neuen bestellen und ihn einfach austauschen. https://www.igo3d.com/Tube-Coupling-Collet
  3. 2 points
    There is nothing in Cura that lets you reverse motor directions, so selecting the proper printer definition is not going to help. You have to fix either the hardware (flip the stepper motor plug on the controller board) or the firmware.
  4. 2 points
    Hallo, also ein paar Lücken sieht man schon in der Layer Ansicht (schwarz eingekreist) Zeit das du dein PC aufrüstest, den sowas würde ich so nicht drucken, außer dass es mir bewusst ist das da Lücken sein werden Alle Lücken kann man nicht schließen weil da einfach keine 0,4 Linie mehr rein passt, und Cura generiert da auch keine anderen Linien bzw. nur Teilweise (Lücken zwischen Wänden füllen, kleine Lücken ausfiltern bringt nur teilweise was). Etwas verbessern könntest du es wenn du folgendes ändert: Anzahl der Wandlinien = 2 Zusätzlich würde ich folgende Einstellungen ändern: Reihenfolge des Wanddrucks optimieren = aktivieren Ergebnis: Du druckst jetzt um ca. 20mm/s schneller wie gegenüber deinen Test Teil, bei der gleichen Temperatur? Umso schneller man druck umso mehr Temp wird benötigt, hast du nicht irgendwo ein Temp tower gedruckt? Man sieht auch auf deinen Bilder das sich die Linien (Wand, Top Linien) nicht richtig verbinden, das ist ein Zeichen von zu wenig Temp, zu schnell oder anderen Extrusions Probleme (Nozzle, Feeder, coupler usw.) Ich würde da mal 10C höher gehen Für mich persönlich druckst du auch die erste Schicht zu schnell, weis ehrlich gesagt nicht warum du da soviel geändert hast Ich würde bei der Optik der ersten Layer doch mal "Liniebreite der ersten schicht" auf 102% stellen, kann natürlich sein das dies mir nur erscheint weil du diese auch schneller druckst. Ich persönlich drucke max 20mm/s (stellen weise nur 13mm/s), ist ja nur eine Schicht und wenn die nicht gut ist/hält ist alles danach für den Arsch Für den ersten Layer musst du deine eigenen Werte finden, und wenn das mit 30mm/s auf deiner FlexPlatte zuverlässig hält ist es gut. Die Temp richtig sich auch hier nach Geschwindigkeit und ersten Layerdicke Gruß P.S.: Zwecks Filament, kontrollierst du den Filament-Ø und trägst du den in Cura ein, wenn du z.B. Ø2,75 statt Ø2,85, ist hast du auch unterextrusion
  5. 2 points
    Bonsoir ! Le verdict à la fin de la journée : tu viens de me faire économiser 120 euros ! Merci beaucoup pour ton aide ainsi qu'au concepteur de la pièce !
  6. 2 points
    Wouldn't it be better to use the temperatures for the initial layer in the start script, or has the Cura behavior changed in this point? {material_bed_temperature_layer_0} {material_print_temperature_layer_0}
  7. 2 points
    In 4.5 we also switch to a much more extensive crash logging system, so let's hope it gives us what we need 🙂
  8. 2 points
    The community is not, but I do believe that you should be the change that you want in the world. So thats why I made the barbarian plugin. Partially as a joke (hence the name), partially to also somewhat solve the issue users are having (all the while triggering them to switch to the right system). Adding inches on everything in Cura (so all the settings) would be a complete and utter nightmare. We're easily talking about months of full time development work. Once it's done, it will also significantly complicate the maintenance of the software, so there is also a long tail that makes this even more expensive. If you want to keep storing your stuff in inches, use 3MF, since that actually allows you to set the unit. Cura will just handle that fine. So tl:dr; Part of the reason is dimensional righteousness, part of it is cost (aka; we have better things to do). ps. If you don't mind, I am going to use dimensional righteousness as a term now. I think it's rather fitting!
  9. 2 points
    yay! It was a pain to hold the fabric. my clips are either too big or too small. 😞
  10. 1 point
    We had this feature request come in through GitHub too https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1152 @smartavionics has contributed this plugin, which adds support in Cura.
  11. 1 point
    Dear Ultimaker, Please add support for 3d Connexion Space Mice. Many people use them and when you do it's a bummer to do without. Cura is the odd one out at his point. (btw you guys have at least one at the office and otherwise just buy one. You'll certainly find a use for it after development. You'll end up buying loads of them for the people in the office.) Cheers! Thanks in advance
  12. 1 point
    Hi there! I just created small python application (Python 3.6+ and PyQt5) Please see and try from github: https://github.com/aleksandarpu/CuraProfileCompare binaries are on my google disc because of size issue They are created with pyinstaller and there are windows and Linux versions python source is on github too
  13. 1 point
    Sodale, der Druck läuft und ich muss sagen, die Einstellungen haben genau das gemacht was sie sollten. Bin gerade sehr zufrieden 🙂
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Today I tried to print a medium sized object in ABS, build volume temperature set at 50° from cura 4.4. The internal build volume temperature measured was around 30 deg (build plate at 100°). The object warped and delaminated. With the air manager turned off the internal build volume temperature was higher, around 45°/50° and the print was perfect.
  16. 1 point
    Erstmal eine Frage dazu: was meinst Du mit "G-Code Editor" und wo findet man den in Cura 4.x? Oder meinst Du Start- und Stop-Skripte? Am UM2 werden standardmäßig alle Material-Einstellungen am Drucker verwaltet (Du erinnerst Dich vielleicht noch... 😊). Nur wenn in den (Cura-) "machine settings" der GCode-Flavor auf "Marlin" umgestellt wird, übernimmt Cura diese Aufgabe. Dann werden die entsprechenden Optionen in Cura eingeblendet und der generierte gcode ignoriert das ausgewählte Material vom Drucker.
  17. 1 point
    Bei Ali suchen: mk8 nozzle large diameter
  18. 1 point
    Hallo, nachfolgender Beitrag von letztem Mittwoch weist auf Leuchtstoffröhre als mögliche Ursache für Sensor-Störungen hin: Grüße
  19. 1 point
    Ja meint er. Da gibts dann einen PLAY Button, da kannst du dann das Hotend von den Bewegungen her ablaufen lassen und siehst somit wie er wann und wo fährt.
  20. 1 point
    Detection of endstops is usually disabled during printing, but this sounds very similar to a simple "filament end detection". Support for such a function was added to the tinker-firmware in 2015. This would need a simple switch that connects two pins on the Arduino board when the syringe reaches its end position. It was originally meant to be used with a more complex sensor, but it turned out that this was all what it needs: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/5896-more-information-during-print/page/10/?tab=comments#comment-122987 There are some instructions and pictures about the cable connections as well - and it's easy to test with a (pair of) wire. The firmware does not do much more than this part: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/geek_mode/Marlin/filament_sensor.cpp Hope that helps!
  21. 1 point
    Ein Ölstift ist auch nicht schlecht damit man besser die Führungsstangen schmieren kann. Mit der mitgelieferten Tube kommt man teilweise recht schlecht dran und kann das auch nicht wirklich gut dosieren. Und dann habe ich noch eine kleine leere Pumpsprayflasche gekauft, die ich mit Isopropanol gefüllt habe. Damit mache ich immer meine Filabase Dauerdruckplatte auf dem S5 sauber. Bei Werkzeug gibt es natürlich einiges was man gut gebrauchen kann vor allem aber dann für die Nachbearbeitung der Teile. Hobbymesser, Schleifpapier, eine Schnittunterlage, Feilen, kleine Messing-Drahtbürste (zum Nozzle putzen), Bohrer und Akkuschrauber, Dremel. Ein paar Handschuhe als Schutz beim Schneiden mit dem Hobbymesser und damit man die heiße Druckplatte sofort rausnehmen kann nach dem Druck (weil man mal wieder keine Geduld und Zeit hat), Küchenrolle, einen Entgrater, und eine Heißluftpistole um das "gestringte" Material schnell wegzuschmelzen z.B. bei PETG manchmal notwendig. Ach und dann wichtige Teile zum Drucken sind die Stege zum Einstellen der Riemen und des Axialspiels der Führungsstangen: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2965005
  22. 1 point
    Yesterday I printed a sealing plate where the seal is tpu and the shell carbon fiber reinforced PETG. Pressure tested up to 5 MPa hydraulic pressure. I was surprised how well it worked. The PETG and TPU bonded really strong.
  23. 1 point
    You are missing the "S" like: M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ;Wait for extruder T0 to reach temp before proceeding You can delete "T0" if you don't use multiple extruder's.
  24. 1 point
    Had you restart Cura after deactivating the plugin? There was a little problem but as far I know @fieldOfView had already correct it it's now waiting for approval from the development team.
  25. 1 point
    Its a new year now, and there hasn't been any more discussion on this thread, but I thought that I would add my comments.... found this while browsing to see what people are saying about the S5 Material Handler. I'm at a small US university, and we have 3 Stratasys products (Connex 500 $280K, Objet30 $34K, and a UprintPlus $25K in 2009... a forerunner to the F123 series), and we just got a UM S5 in July. We have about 6 3D printers total, including a Leapfrog Creatr (mixed feelings, not working now), a Robo 3DR1 (Excellent single nozzle machine, but we wore it out!), and a Craftbot 3 dual nozzle (reasonable) Here are my thoughts: Print Quality: I think our Uprint+ from Stratasys has overall better quality than an optimized print from the S5, but not by much, except on the undersides of complex objects. The Uprint+ still shines there, because they have optimized the support/overhang printing for the ABS/Dissolvable support that the Uprint+ uses. The heated chamber does help the Uprint+, in my opinion. After doing considerable tweaking on a profile, the UM S5 does just about as well on the top side. The Connex 500 and Objet 30 use a polyjet process, and are totally different..... their print quaity is great, but most polyjet materials are very brittle, and degrade in sunshine, and with time.... probably not relavant to this discussion. I based my print quality on a 1.75 inch diameter, .25" thick 'coin' with raised lettering and graphics on both sides, as simple objects are easy to print well for both. Maintenance: We had to pay a yearly maintenance contract for our Uprint+, and they were fairly quick about coming out, but it was still about $3500 to $4000 per year, and now it has been end of-lifed by Stratasys, and has worn out belts (not currently working). However, when it worked, it worked well most of the time. We did have some clogged tip problems, and a few other broken items over the 9 or so years. On the other Stratasys machines however, the customer support wasn't good (we stopped using the Objet 30 after we got the Connex, because material costs were less), we have had many service calls for the Connex 500, including one over the holidays. After our initial purchase/service contracts expired, we have been paying as we go, as the service contracts started at about $17K per year for the Connex. Figure minimum of $6500 per visit. Material costs: We use our machines at our small university, for student use, classroom use, research use, and occasionally, a print job for someone off campus. For the Connex 500 we charge about $11.60/cubic inch, for the Uprint+, we charge about $7.80/cubic inch (Stratasys has lowered their material costs for education, so our numbers might be a little high now, but there are other costs....), for the UM S5 we charge about $2.80/Cubic inch for basic materials which is more than actual filament costs. We are mostly trying to just do a little better than breaking even, we also charge labor for non-student jobs. Of course we can only purchase Stratasys materials directly, but I do feel that their FDM filament is high quality. RIght now we are only using UM filament on the S5, which also seems to be high quality. I like the much wider materials selection available for the non-stratasys machines. Other costs: We needed modeling bases for the Uprint+, and reused them many times even though they were said to be single use. The Uprint+ typically used as much support as model material per build job, and was the same cost, and was dissolved out in a heated tank/machine purchased from Stratasys....plus we had to purchase their solvent to mix with water, and had to replace tips periodically. Our Ultimaker is new, so we haven't replaced anything yet, and the PVA filament we got with it dissolves in water. Overall: We are not a production enviroment, but for our department, I don't plan on buying any more Stratasys machines (even though I still like them better than 3D Systems), because of their high initial cost, high maintaince costs, closed and limited material selection. We plan to purchase the material and air handlers for the S5, and expect to use it for many years. I did like the simplicity "point, click, print" for the Uprint+ Catalyst software, as Cura crashes more than I like, and is still quite buggy and requires too much tweaking of profiles (ver 4.4) in my opinion. We were given a non-functioning Uprint machine, and hope to get our Uprint+ functioning again, and will use it as long as is reasonable, as it has it's place. I don't plan on spending much more on it, just using parts from the other machine. If it was working, I would offer to print a part, but it's not at the moment. This post grew much longer than I expected, but hope it helps! FDM 3D printing has really gotten much better over the past 10 years. I see Ultimaker where Stratasys was 10 years ago.... hopefully they won't make the same mistakes. take care!
  26. 1 point
    Hi all, I can confirm that the procedure robinmdh describes really works! Just great! Saves lot of time! How I did it - created a material in Cura (used generic PLA as base), modified the settings to match Colorfabb Special Copper - Renamed accordingly - exported it to desktop - Obs! Deleted the material from Cura - modified the xml with new GUID - imported it to Cura - and after 1 min - VOILA , its available on UM 5S thank you robin for sharing this tip!
  27. 1 point
    Hi Your are right, that the UM2+ is quite old and maybe outdated, but it is still a very very good printer and it beats often newer models in some disciplines. So a UM2+ for $700 is a good deal and I would definitely buy it. The main difference between the UM2+ and newer models are, that they have dual print cores, so you can print in two colors or with a dedicated support material, are network enabled to print via network, active bed leveling and some other features. I don't know if it helps you for your decision, but my first printer was an UM3, then S5 and I recently bought a used UM2+ Extended because it is a great printer. Hope it helps a little bit.
  28. 1 point
    A little more detail - 1) download STL file(s) from thingiverse. 2) open the file in cura 3) Slice it. Check the results in cura to make sure it looks correct (ALWAYS CHECK). Often part of the model won't slice at all. 4) Save - cura saves the result as a ".gcode" file. 5) Copy the gcode file to an SD card 6) Put the SD card in the um2go There's lots of sub steps. If you have used computers a lot and know how to download you should understand most of the sub steps.
  29. 1 point
    Yes, I finally noticed that myself. I got everything to work. The printer was stopping because the laptop fell asleep. Now I just use the SD Card and everything is fine. We have been printing a lot and having fun. Thank you for the support
  30. 1 point
    Salut cette pièce ici est une alternative possible: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-lazy-lever Je ne l'ai pas testée mais la personne qui l'a conçue est fiable et réputée. (modérateur sur le forum et créateur de nombreux design populaires sur Youmagine)
  31. 1 point
    That's also why we're not doing that 😉
  32. 1 point
    Kann ich, aber das sollten wir vielleicht in einen anderen Thread machen bzw. via PM. 🙂
  33. 1 point
    You don't need to guess, its very easy to know what print core has give the error, just look to see what core was active printing by seeing what ones the lowest nozzle and thats the active core that give the error, simples.
  34. 1 point
    I have one, it's nice. I cant comment on the benefits of using it with PLAs, but I can say that it does help with ABS and PETG quite a bit, I have better layer adhesion and much less warping. I have no way to measure UPF's myself, but there isn't any stink coming out of it when printing if that tells you anything. The fan does seem to run on high when using a generic material, so if it's right next to your desk it may be a bit annoying. I have mine next to my desk and it doesn't really bother me though. One thing that I really like about it is the ability to keep dust out of the machine, it's amazing how dirty my printer was getting. I was also getting nozzle clogs every once and a while, and so far that seems to be gone (I do have the material station too, that surely helps too). All in all I think my purchase was a good one, I don't regret it one bit. The firmware itself is surely in it's early stages, although not bad, I can see it improving in the future. Just like how all the other firmware updates have increased the S5's print quality.
  35. 1 point
    @Filmpalast hast du jetzt eigentlich schon mal den Skirt gemessen? (dafür braucht man keine andere Firmware) Habe weiter oben meine Einstellung für Linienbreite der ersten Schicht/Fluss der ersten schicht vergessen zu erwähnen Linienbreite der ersten Schicht = 104 Fluss der ersten schicht = 104 Aber eigentlich sind die werte egal, du musst deine eigenen finden die für deine "Flex Platte" arbeiten. Und wenn du mit deiner Flex Platte nicht zu frieden bist dann weg damit. Ich habe da auch schon einiges durch (von Glas, Alu Pei, verschiedene Dauerdruckplatten usw.) Du musst jetzt erstmal kontrollieren ob dein erster Layer in der höhe passt und gleich bleibt (das kann man messen), dann mit Temp Bett- Nozzle, Linienbreite usw. am ersten Layer rum probieren so habe ich es gemacht. Zwecks Überhang: Wie starkt ist den die Wandung? Ein Vielflaches des Nozzle-Ø? z.B. 1,6mm Weil dann werden nur gerade Linien über das Fenster gedruckt wenn es jetzt z.B. 3mm ist wird noch zickzack drüber gedruckt und dadurch bekommt man schlechteren Überhang Gruß
  36. 1 point
    I am stupid. Machine settings didn't transfer correctly, had filament diameter set to 2.85mm and a nozzle size of 0.3mm. All is well now.
  37. 1 point
    Small ABS parts can often benefit from fan cooling.
  38. 1 point
    But add a reminder somewhere to turn the sensor on again. I had the situation in the past, that I also had to turn off the sensor because of such false alerts and then I forgot to enable it again. Then during a longer print the filament ran out and the printer was printing in the air, because the sensor was still disabled.
  39. 1 point
    I don't have resonance problems (2x UM2 non-plus), so I can't test this. But I think this is an interesting approach. The only question is: if people notice resonance, how are they going to find out which frequency it is exactly? If I feel a vibration, I can't tell if it is 5Hz, 7Hz, 10Hz,...? At least not without a known reference next to it. Further, it is very hard to feel/hear whether there are lower or higher harmonics on it, which could also trigger the resonance. Maybe you could find a printing test pattern that "resonates well"? Or a printing pattern that causes vibrations at known frequencies, so that people can try this, and then can compare their own resonance to these standard patterns? I am thinking of a gcode-file with a sort of "frequency stepping scale" similar to the E24 resistor values in electronics? Where the actual resonant frequency is displayed on the front panel? And then, if that frequency resonates in the system, people can just read the value from the front panel, and enter that in Cura? Could be interesting from a theoretical viewpoint, but I am not sure if it is worth the effort though, and if it would really result in better prints...?
  40. 1 point
    Hello @ramsesiden, I notice that the gcode header in the 4.4.1 file contains this line: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate Marlin expects the values to be in mm/s but most of the other printer firmwares (I believe) expect the values to be in mm/min. I don't know how Klipper behaves in this respect but if it's like the majority of firmwares, it will end up using a very low speed limit. As for the print time estimates, I cannot explain the big difference other than perhaps the print time estimate algorithm used in Cura got reworked between the 4.1 and 4.4 releases. That's possible.
  41. 1 point
    We purchased our S5 in July and have been using the same firmware version since then. (I think it was 5.2.11) Was pretty stable; only issues we experienced were when CPE or PC parts would sometimes detach from the buildplate and cause the Z axis to jam, then freefall and the printer would continue to print until it would complete the program. We had a few major material buildups; one time the bottom fan door axis broke right off but that is another story. Anyways, I noticed last week that there was a new update available - 5.2.24 so I went ahead and installed it. The printer acted a bit different (can't totally skip cooldown anymore!) but I didn't think much of it until I printed something overnight which also managed to detach and jam the head, almost breaking it for a second time. (Usually I check the progress but this time the camera wasn't working; neither through Cura or in the browser. If I see something odd I can pause or abort remotely). So then I checked for updates again and saw another one - 5.2.27, I installed it but the camera feed is still dropping out after a few hours of printing. The only way to fix this is to restart the machine, which means I can't really trust the printer on long, unattended prints. I would appreciate either a firmware upgrade which fixes these issues or help to downgrade to the last known stable release - preferably before the skip cooldown option was removed and where the camera feed was also still functional. We were planning on buying another S5 here at work but with my recent issues it is on hold. This is an expensive machine and it has to be more stable and dependable and less self-destructive.
  42. 1 point
    Hi all, Up till now I've been using a digital caliper to calibrate the X/Y axles on my Ultimaker S5. It's quite fiddly as I've found it takes several passes to get both sides of each axle equally spaced. While there's an Ultimaker 2/3 calibration stick in STL format on your help page here, there's no equivalent help article for the S5, nor is there an available STL for this model printer anywhere else (that I'm aware of). So I've designed my own, which is now on Thingiverse (see attached image). @SandervG Could I suggest this STL be added to a help page for the S5, to make it easier for users to calibrate their printers?
  43. 1 point
    You can dry the bag in an oven or with the Printdry, should work there as well, but more heat about 100°C is better I think. I use also both, the food dehydrator to dry my spools and the Polybox for printing. I am not sure if the Polybox is really so airtight that you can store sensitive filaments for a longer time there, personally I store the spools in Lock & Lock boxes and use the Polybox only during printing.
  44. 1 point
    Somewhere around 10:00 AM this morning (CET), the total number of downloads of plugins I've published to the Marketplace crossed the 500.000 mark: Statistically, it is most likely that it was someone installing the OctoPrint Connection plugin, but I have no means to see exactly. I am fairly proud of reaching this milestone, less than 2 months after Ultimaker celebrated 1 million downloads from the Marketplace, which itself was only launched a year ago. I'll do my best to continue to improve your Cura workflow.
  45. 1 point
    set combing to be "everywhere but skin". something like that. Also in layer view, turn on movements (check the box). You can see which moves are retraction versus non-retracting (different shades of blue). You want to make sure these moves are retracting moves (by default they are non-retracting and leave that line you don't like).
  46. 1 point
    Didnt know what to print next so i decided to print this one. 8 Parts with supports needed. Using Tough PLA & PVA from Ultimaker.
  47. 1 point
    Just to say thank you to Tinkergnome who answered all my questions, its taken me along time to get to this point Not the best print I have ever done but then again, I don't use cura so not bad the PVA came out well though. see it in action https://www.dropbox.com/s/xm8tcyb83rwqj32/2hd%20Ultimaker.MP4?dl=0
  48. 1 point
    It is often not so clear how to use 3rd party materials with the UM3 or S5 printers. So I want to give some hints and answers to the common problems and questions. Ultimaker materials Ultimaker materials come with an NFC tag in the spool and the printer is able to read the NFC tag and can detect the material and color during the loading process. Internally the NFC tag contains a unique ID which is then matched against a material database or something like that in the printer software. So if you have loaded UM material which was automatically detected by the printer, then you just have to select the UM material profile in Cura or read the configuration directly from the printer by clicking on the printer at the top right corner in Cura and you are perfectly prepared for printing. The printer cannot detect the Ultimaker material If you have the very rare case that your UM spool cannot be detected by the printer (I have one Black PLA with that problem) then it could be that the NFC reader is not working correctly or that just the ID of the spool is not in the database. In such a case, you have to handle the spool like any other 3rd party material. 3rd party materials If you load 3rd party material, the NFC tag cannot be detected and therefore you will be asked which material you want to load. The list shows all the preconfigured materials that are supported by the printer. For example, you want to load a ColorFabb PLA material, then you should choose PLA from the list and the material will be loaded. In Cura you should select in that case the generic PLA profile otherwise, you will get a warning message that your loaded material in the printer doesn't match with the material you have configured in Cura. You can override this message but it can be avoided by choosing the correct profile. What if you place your Ultimaker PVA material in a Drybox or something like that? Then you have to handle the UM PVA as a 3rd party one. The UM profiles and the generic one are identical, so there is no difference except that you will always get a warning message if you choose a UM profile in Cura and have a material loaded which was not detected automatically by the printer. So as a general rule, if the material was detected by the printer, use Ultimaker profiles, otherwise use the generic ones. Different material types With PLA it is easy because the generic profile is named PLA and your 3rd party material normally also. But what if you buy ColorFabb XT, HT, ngen or some other PETG material and you cannot find it in the material list on the printer? In that case, you have to know that these materials are all of some kind of copolyester and Ultimaker CPE and CPE+ are also copolyester materials. So you just have to choose a material from the list which is similar to the material you want to load. It is enough when you look for the print temperature because this is the only information the printer needs to know to load the material. (heat up the nozzle to extrude some material) It doesn't matter if you choose CPE+ or Nylon or whatever for your 3rd party material if the print temperature is nearly the same. But in Cura you have to take care, that you choose the corresponding generic profile for your print job. Again, if you have selected Nylon on the printer and then use the generic CPE profile you will get the warning message. How to add your own material profiles in Cura? The best start is to duplicate a generic profile and then modify the settings you want. There is one setting which is important and this is called "Material Type". This field must match the name of the material you choose when loading the material on the printer. Otherwise, you will get again a warning message that the materials don't match. For example, you want to create a custom profile for ColorFabb XT. We know that XT is very similar to Ulitmakers CPE and therefore we duplicate the generic CPE profile. You can choose anything you want for "Display Name" and "Brand" but not for "Material Type", this should show "CPE". When you now load your XT in the printer, choose CPE from the list when you are asked for the material and in Cura you choose your custom ColorFabb XT profile which matches with the material type of the printer. It is also important, that you duplicate the generic profile you want to use during loading. So duplicating the generic PLA profile for using with CPE will also throw an error (warning message) because your new custom profile got the GUID from PLA and not CPE. So be carful when creating custom profiles. The future? With the new marketplace materials, there is a new possibility to download specific predefined profiles and I heard that there will also be the possibility to "upload" such profiles to the printer. So with an upcoming firmware, it should be possible to get the material type of such a profile in the material list of the printer. I don't know if this will work also with your own custom profiles, but we will see. I hope I have covered the most common issues and questions, if something is missing or not correct, please let me know that I can edit and correct this post.
  49. 1 point
    Hi, I have created this thread to keep an overview on which materials are available through Cura as part of our Material Alliance. We can add a short description of each material so you have at least a basic idea of its properties. Do realize this is a summary, if you want to know specific properties please visit each filament specific technical data sheet. I'll also include a link to each individual thread, in case you want to discuss a material specifically. Questions? Feel free to post them below! This thread will be updated over time. BASF - PET CF. Carbon fiber, high dimensional stability, low moisture absorption, heat-resistant of 74ºC - PP GF30 . Glass fiber (30%), extreme stiffness, chemical resistance. Clariant - Clariant PA6/66 FR. Flame retardant. - Clariant PA6/66 GF20 FR . Glass Fiber (20%), flame retardant. - Clariant Pet-G. Chemical resistance, good layer adhesion, heat-resistant ~80ºC. Colorfabb - Color On Demand, PLA in 100+ RAL colors at 2kg MOQ. - woodFill , 70% PLA and 30% wood provides a wood-like texture DSM - Arnitel ID 2045 . ShoreD 34 hardness, flexible TPC. - Arnitel ID 2060 HT . High performance TPC, high temperature, chemical resistance. - Novamid ID1030 CF10 PA6/66. Carbon fibers (10%). Dupont - Zytel 3D1000FL. Ultralow shrinkage. - Hytrel 3D41000FL, shoreD 60 hardness. Eastman - Amphora AM3300. Low-odor, styrene-free material. ElogioAM - Facilan C8 . 3D print almost without layers, good interlayer bonding. Igus GmbH - Iglidur I150 . Self-lubricating, wear resistant. - Iglidur I180. Self-lubricating, wear resistant. Lehvoss - Luvocom 3F PAHT 9825 NT. Unreinforced PAHT, low warping. Matterhackers - NylonG . Glass fiber (~20%). - NylonX. Carbon fiber (~20%). Owens Corning - XSTRAND GF30 PP . Glass fiber (30%). - XSTRAND GF30 PA6 . Glass fiber (30%).
  50. 1 point
    If you really want you can program the AA core to think it's a BB core. UM seems to think it will clog more easily but like kman says - what do you have to lose? If you want to disassemble your core to get at the nozzle more easily or to swap nozzles (with what though?) then here is a video instructing you how to do this that I created: If you want to make your AA cores think they are BB (otherwise the printer refuses to send PVA through it) then here are instructions: Frist put your UM3 into developer mode - it's in the menus on the UM3. Your machine needs to be on your network (wifi or ethernet) if it isn't already. Once it's on the network it will show the IP address at the top of the main screen. Next you need ssh which is built into linux and Macintosh terminal but not windows. For windows I recommend putty: https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html In putty you don't type the "ssh" part but just put the ultimaker@111.222.333.444 part and click "open". ssh ultimaker@1.2.3.4 (don't enter 1.2.3.4 - enter the ip address listed on your UM3) username/password: ultimaker/ultimaker (much easier than root/ultimaker as it takes you straight into the utility to do sendgcode) Choose the type and size from the list below - T0 is left slot and T1 is right slot so before running any of these make sure the core you want to program is in the left slot if it will be AA and in the right slot if it will be BB After programming the core, slide it out and back into the slot at which point the UM3 will re-read the eeprom and realize it's new state. The software that does X,Y,Z offset calibrations for a core goes by serial number and that can't be changed so you shouldn't lose any calibration data when you do the below changes. AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000 AA 0.25 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3235000000 BB 0.25 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3235000000 AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.6 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3600000000 BB 0.6 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3600000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000
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