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  1. I think you're looking for "Merge Models" - this function aligns multiple loaded models in respect to their origin. The way this works is: first load all separate parts, then select all (STRG + A) and "merge" their position (STRG + ALT + G). https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011738340-How-to-merge-and-group-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    3 points
  2. A bit of nuance here; We are not all knowing or infallible. By all means ask questions as to why something is the way it is. If we can't explain why we did (or did not) do something it's a sign that something should be done. These kind of challenges are what improves things. There is value in the remarks of those that are experienced and those that are new, but they tend to be on different "levels" (eg; I don't really look at the features intended for novices and i'm unlikely to notice certain quirks of the interface because i'm too experienced!) Also, Cura does have variable layer height a
    3 points
  3. A few tips (maybe you already know them, maybe not): If you would go the moulding and casting route, be sure to post-process your mould very well: remove all layer lines as much as possible by sanding, coating/painting, or chemical smoothing. Otherwise the cast may be very hard to remove, as each layer line acts as a tiny undercut. Don't ask how I know... :-) I do the smoothing with dichloromethane now. (See my separate post on: chemical smoothing PLA and PET with dichloromethane, should come up in search.) And I make my moulds in silicone from 3D-printed models, and i
    2 points
  4. Hi all, We've release firmware 6.2 for the S-line printers. It's got some neat performance improvements, and as a user you can now choose which firmware release channel you want, latest, which is greatest, or stable, for updates 3-4 times a year. Check out the full release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012055979 Download it in via your favorite method, either on the printer directly or get the .swu update file here. Thanks!
    2 points
  5. Any hat that requires a video to explain it is ridiculous by definition. I've built 12. The fire helmet has 6-AAA batteries, 1-9 volt battery, 2 music speakers, 1 speaker for the bell, 5 circuit boards, 210 LED's, 70 rivets, somewhere around 60 feet of #26 wire, 11 switches, a variety of ostrich plumes for various holidays, and it weighs just under a kilo. I didn't bother getting the blue-tooth to work since I refuse to give up my flip phone.
    2 points
  6. Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate
    2 points
  7. @gr5, it's the Y so 20mm below the build plate mid-point. I'm going to ignore the suitability of "Origin at Center". @onr, Look at the Cura origin icon. The green arm is the Y. The Cura origin is showing "+Y" as being UP in the view. Now look at the "part" origin icon. The part origin green arm is point down. I have no idea why that is, but that is the confusion. You moved the part Y-20 in relation to itself, but the "part" origin (not the part itself) is mirrored about the X in relation to Cura. So in that view, the part is sitting wholly in the +Y even though you have it
    2 points
  8. This is a more close up pictures for sure, -but cannot be sure that there is an open wiring. At this close distance from the heater core, the heat will extend along the wire and sometimes you burn the insulation at some distance from the sleeve. But with this much wear and tear on the fastening tab, it's strange if there is no hole in the wires insulation.. Another thing, if there is no short here, this short/close distance -mean higher capacitance. So could this increased capacitance be the reason for (out of specification sensed) this error? For sure, there
    2 points
  9. Typically each model is brought into Cura by Center-of-Geometry and each model would need the same Center-of-Geometry in order to locate them correctly relative to each other. It is possible to use programs like Blender or 3D Builder to impart location data into the STL or 3mf. I haven't played with that very much. To fool Cura into becoming an assembly modeler I do the following. My build plate is 230 X 230. I create a build plate in the Cad program up to 230 x 230 x 5 with the top at Z=0. My real models are above it and oriented the way I want. The build plate gets merg
    2 points
  10. 1) the bed temperature: does it also show as way too hot on the temperature logging page? 2) the hotend: the most likely cause is the printhead's front fan not spinning correctly anymore this causes the hotends to heat up beyond the heat break and can be caused by very thin strands of filament ending up in the fan. The fact that your hotend melted the plastic at the top of the hotend probably means you have indeed baked you Teflon insert in the hotend (this shouldn't be heated to PLA melting temperatures!!! that damages it for sure). So like @gr5 said you should replace the hotends,
    2 points
  11. (if I am not painfully obvious, this is intended as a joke)
    2 points
  12. Thanks for deleting your comment. Yes, from my point of view, even if the comments are technically well-founded, I feal it disrespectful to the work and service FREELY provided by Ultimaker and the development teams working on the product. Cura takes longer than others to get started ... Yes and ? in my case it's 15s while all the others takes 2 or 3s. It's true but what does 12s change in my life ? And when a print takes 2 days to finish: 2 days =172800s = 11520 Cura start There is no variable layer height yes, but PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, Ideamaker, IceSL, Craf
    2 points
  13. What about the official "print core cleaning maintenance instructions": https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652559-Print-core-cleaning-maintenance-schedule While you're at it - take a look at all other maintenance tasks too... 🙂 https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013135039-Maintenance-schedule-of-the-Ultimaker-S5
    2 points
  14. Hallo Tinkergnoe, danke für den Hinweis bzl. USB-Druck - das ist in der Tat nicht sinnvoll, weil der Rechner dann ja tatsächlich voll belegt ist. Also vergessen wir's... Das mit den Klammern habe ich nicht bedacht. MBzgl. des Bauraums muss ich dann mal ausprobieren, ob ich das Teil ggf. dann so schräg gelegt bekomme. Sonst halt Lohndruck... PS. Es ist kein "ganz neuer" UM2+, sondern ein Vorführgerät vom Händler mit nur ~ 25h...
    1 point
  15. Hello, I would prefer to avoid the complications of trying to ship something this size overseas. Even though the printer is relatively small, the packaging and weight will probably make it cost prohibitive to ship to Europe. If I am unable to sell locally within the next few weeks I will contact you.
    1 point
  16. Hi John, I'll think as Geert, -try using mold and epoxy resin. 🙂 Epoxy is a very good insulator, but will suffer if heat is to high (but normally a bit over 100 deg. C). There's plenty of brands, so if you can find one with increased heat properties it may fill your needs. You can also mix in the color you'd like.. (But check for type). Torgeir
    1 point
  17. Thank you guys for the help, I did end up installing win 10 pro 64bit on that laptop, it has a 64bit system. But as Torgier mentioned it uses a lot of its "resources" so I uninstalled it due to failure at startup. I bought a better laptop and upgraded the crap out of it and today is the day I see what Ive created and test it with cura
    1 point
  18. I would have some doubts about carbon-filled materials. The leads of pencils are carbon-filled too, and are *highly conductive*: short-circuit a battery with a pencil lead, and you get a really nice welding arc... Black anti-static mats get their properties from the carbon too. Make sure you measure conductivity on a small test print, and also the breakdown voltage. So the glass-filled looks like a better idea to me. Maybe PET should also do, at least for normal house-hold voltages? But I have no clue about its high-voltage properties. Also, have
    1 point
  19. If I had to do that, I would consider printing a mould, and then cast some sort of rubber (PU? - which exists in various hardnesses) into it. Or print a real model, print a shell, pour silicone in-between model and shell, and thus make a silicone mould. And then pour rubber into that silicone, to prevent it from sticking. Then you have the advantages of both 3D-printing and casting.
    1 point
  20. I occasionally print PET. In the beginning I tried printing on bare glass, which gave mixed results. Then I tried dilluted wood glue, which gave *very good* bonding. Way too good, because at one time, it chipped the glass. This already happened while cooling down, I heard it crack violently. When I removed the print, it came off without any force, but with the glass chip stuck to the print. Now I use my salt method: apply a few drops of salt water to the glass bed, and wipe that with a paper tissue until it dries into a very thin mist of salt. For PLA, and as long as the glass is h
    1 point
  21. You can also enable the backup plugin. It's shipped with Cura by default.
    1 point
  22. The local solution would be backing up %APPDATA%\cura\4.8 as you indicated.
    1 point
  23. even though i had new Firmware i did update it with same 6.1.1 Firmware and it works. All solved
    1 point
  24. Is there any method to do a complete image capture of the drive prior to an upgrade attempt? Kind of like a 'ghost' image used for quick OS replication and restoral? This would allow a worst-case roll-back to a known state.
    1 point
  25. Hi @elkteeth could you provide more information. A screenshot? Or your log file? Your log file can be found here: C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows)
    1 point
  26. Usually the settings (that are stored on the printer) are not touched during a "normal" firmware update. But the settings on the UM2+ are stored in different locations than on the older UM2. That's why there's an implicit factory reset every time you swap between UM2+ and UM2 (non-plus) firmware. It doesn't matter how you compile it. As soon as you stay in the same "family" (either plus or non-plus) you can update the firmware without loosing any (potentially custom) settings. That's all.
    1 point
  27. Awesome! 👍 That has been all of us at our starting points. 🙂 I used to post under the nom de plume "The clumsy noob" complete with pics of burned fingers and other things. And, when I had to sign things, I would use my plume de nom. 😜 These days I am more of "The forgetful dood." You will be surprised how fast you can get through this in the future. It is a bit of an upward slope at first, but it all starts to come together. Not really.....you can try using bitmap (2 bit black and white) as well as 256 for this if you want to cut down on the anti aliasin
    1 point
  28. Für die meisten vordefinierten Druckprofile sind die Material-Einstellungen nur der Basiswert. Je nach Layerhöhe und Druckgeschwindigkeit wird das vom Profil noch angepasst. Tatsächlich sind es noch sehr viel mehr "Einstellungs-Schichten", die am Ende zu den Werten führen, die in deinem 2. Bild zu sehen sind. Es wird also immer das "Endergebnis" zum Generieren der gcode-Datei benutzt. Du wirst sehen, wie sich Werte ändern, wenn Du statt "normal" ein anderes Profil auswählst. Wenn dich die Details interessieren: Im Cura-Wiki ist ein Beispiel, wie die Schichten aufei
    1 point
  29. You can send me money so it's no longer fee (and thus cheaper for you ;)) Free is more expensive is a bit of a silly statement. S3D can't do these things either and does cost money. I'm pretty sure that Cura is getting more investments in terms of development time than S3D is getting. But just because you're not the one paying, it doesn't mean that no-one is paying.
    1 point
  30. Dear gr5, Many referene material mentioned , part cooling is not required for the ABS. Hence I have disabled the part-cooling for this print. there is no part cooling from Start to End. I will try enable part cooling (30%) from the layer of this tower start. Many Thanks 🙂
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. This video is also really good for the cleaning process:
    1 point
  33. 👍 Thanks for your feedback. Regards Torgeir
    1 point
  34. We don't disagree. I already said that modifier meshes could not be used for what you want to do. You are going to have to look for a solution per situation.
    1 point
  35. Here you go: Here's a project to see how I did it: UM2_z-STL.3mf
    1 point
  36. Hi folks, I've not a S5, but do have a S3. Why not try to print whithout using the material station, just in order to see where the problem is. The material station may signal, -"I cannot feed" for some reason. I'll assume this will give an indication where the failure is. Thanks Torgeir
    1 point
  37. Thanks to your advices I solved the problem ,I had to ungroup the models and then to group them again to cancel these lines thanks guys
    1 point
  38. Hallo miteinander, Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen wie die Abstandshülsen Geräusche machen sollen, die Abstandshülsen die Zwischen den Pulley sind drehen sich ja beide gleich, und die die zwischen Pulley und Kugellager sind drehen ja auch, außer die stehen zu weit oben an den Kugellager an den ja nur der kleinere ring dreht sich. Da könnte tatsächlich helfen wenn man dort den druck raus nimmt. Also den Geräusch von deinen Video bin ich mir eigentlich zu 75% Sicher das es ein Riemen ist der wo an einer Pulley Wand schabt Das muss auch nicht immer sein da der Riem
    1 point
  39. Cura calculates the volume required for an extrusion as {line width * layer height * length-of-extrusion} (there is more to it but that's close enough). When you put Flow numbers in Cura they are percentages of the calculated volume and it is those numbers that go into the Gcode as "E" values. Cura knows nothing about steps/mm, only the calculated flow (which in my world is known as Volume and Flow = Volume/Time). When the Gcode is read by the printer, the printer refers to it's own flow setting and adjusts every (a global change) E value it comes across by the percentage. If you Tune
    1 point
  40. The version of Sidebar GUI with an undockable sidebar has been released on the Marketplace for your undocking pleasure.
    1 point
  41. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    1 point
  42. Hello Everybody! My brother in law has made a Crealty ender printer 6 profile for Mac and Windows. We have done some test prints and it looks promising. Please give us comments if you encounter any problems. otherwise have fun printing whit this profile!! Crealty_ender_6_printer profile cura_resources.zip
    1 point
  43. I am very much pro recycling and pro clean oceans. So it is good that this plastic garbage is collected. But that garbage collected from the oceans is a mix of ABS, PET, PP, HDPE, LDPE, PC, PS, PLA and other stuff. And it is partially broken down by sunlight, eaten by bacteria, contaminated with salt, bacteria, algae, sand, paint, paper labels,etc... There is no way you can make high-quality products from that in an economical way. To sort-out and purify this garbage, you would need to burn maybe 10x more oil than it takes to make new plastic from that oil. So I think t
    1 point
  44. It could be that your wifi chip on that specific machine has issues? We literally have hundreds of S5's connected with wifi. Wifi is not as stable as ethernet of course, but it should work in most cases. What version of firmware are you using btw?
    1 point
  45. And now @SandervG has promoted me to the century club. WooHoo!!! I'll be awaiting my virtual bonus on that one baby.
    1 point
  46. Thank you, I will. Since I am now rolling in virtual cash, I will buy the next virtual round.
    1 point
  47. Hi guys, After years of following the evolution of the mark2 project, I finally got my hands on relatively cheap second-hand Ultimaker 2 (non plus that wasn't in the best shape to be honest) and did the upgrade a week after receiving the machine! As a UMO veteran - not even the Ulticontroller was around when I first got my machine xD- I am super amazed how well the mark2 does! While I have been playing around with the original dual extrusion upgrade, I must say that the mark2 is lightyears ahead in every concern!! I created a magnetic head for my e3d-hotend that I'll be sharing
    1 point
  48. Both error msgs (both Fontconfig err and qml index out of range) persist, but Cura works.
    1 point
  49. Of course, plugins are in the Marketplace! And I looked under "Settings", "Preferences" and "Extensions". Silly me... I had that plugin deactivated in the old 2.x version I had installed. After updating to the current version it was back. And if I deactivate it from within the program I first have to let it mess up my fan controller. So killing the plugin directory is "better" because it prevents cura from messing with my fan controller in the first place.
    1 point
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