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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/15/2021 in Posts

  1. Nice! Do you have an undercarriage with electronics and motor already? Anyway, here's a print from my side. It's actually one print. Wooden parts: 0.8mm PLA with Natural Wood "Metal" parts: .25 nozzle, Tough PLA. All the parts were printed on one S5 plate with dual extrusion. So you basically print a DIY model kit. It's 12cm long like this. 🙂
    4 points
  2. Thanks, but the amazing part of the work is done by @FormerLurker; my plugin is just the glue between Cura and his ArcWelder application.
    3 points
  3. At first, I thought: are you really going to slide downhill in a 3D-printed sled? What if it breaks? But then I saw the dimensions: 12cm. :-) The first photo, it laying upside down, looks really convincing.
    2 points
  4. Thanks, yes it was indeed. On my couch, beer, TV, cats 😻
    2 points
  5. Very cool, the Natural Wood looks amazing.
    2 points
  6. I have created a new development snapshot which includes an OS X executable of the ArcWelder console application that I manually built on an OS X 10.12 virtual machine and which seems to work there.
    2 points
  7. I believe I found a use for "Mesh Fixes | Remove all Holes". The back legs aren't on the build surface and require support. I randomly set it to 10% scale because it came in sized for a Jolly Green Giant. Sinking it into the build plate 2mm worked to flatten the bottom. I'd use a brim because the contact patches of the rear legs is pretty small for the lean angle they end up at before they merge into the rest.
    2 points
  8. Try re-formatting the SD card and blow out the card slot in the printer. Have you ever used Cura to send a print over the USB? If you have, and you know the computer and printer can communicate, then you can hook it up to the computer, start Cura, load a gcode file (or slice something) and go to the Monitor screen. Try sending G28 from Cura and see if it the printer homes. If that stuff doesn't work you can try sending M502. That will do a full reset back to factory defaults. You will lose your Home Offsets and Steps/mm calibration stuff. You should be able to get those from the pri
    2 points
  9. Avec une buse de 1.6, oui mais certainement pas avec une buse de 0.4, a cette température le PLA s'autodetruit 😁
    1 point
  10. also ich setze das eigentlich immer runter teilweise sogar auf die schichthöhe vom Teil oder knapp darüber bei nem 0,8core wäre das bei 0,2mm schichthöhe 0,4mm für denn ersten layer das kann ja eigentlich gar nicht gehen und halten
    1 point
  11. By the way you can also make the red stick *inwards* on the bottom layer. This will work better as you can bridge a gap and the black has support all the way around. Better but probably not great. It will probably also look kind of crappy. As a general rule for *one* color prints - text that sticks outwards is harder to do (and looks worse) than text that goes into the print (like holes in the print). "emboss" versus "embed"? I'm not sure of the right words. But in this case with the top of your print it looks quite good. Also text on a wall looks better than text
    1 point
  12. Genau da hast du dein Problem: der Aufkleber muss nach oben schauen. Die Glasplatte hat zwei unterschiedlich gut haftende Oberflächen.
    1 point
  13. I assume you mean this video?
    1 point
  14. I do believe you are correct sir. Their first attempts will be the dog, cat, and pig included with the printer. The STL files for those three were exceptionally fine and sliced by professionals using Simplify3D. They print flawlessly. Then those new printer owners start downloading poor STL files from Thingiverse or someplace. They don't know how to slice, the prints are a mess, so they ask for help on Reddit or Facebook and change everything on their printer. The predictable result is that the printer doesn't work right either. All of that will be somebody else's fault - including
    1 point
  15. Hi @SandervG, thanks for the comment. My nephew absolutely loved the gift! About layer visibility, I think that it depends on the printer. If the printer is of very high quality, such as the Ultimaker S5, and you also use high quality filament, the layers look almost like they are part of the design, they make the print stand out, and add an element of uniqueness to the object. I don't think an injection-moulded phone holder can look quite like this one!
    1 point
  16. @svdstaak You could have fooled me that this was a full size sled.
    1 point
  17. Hi, my day was really awful, hectic, too many things to do. I'm looking forward to drinking a good beer at home tonight.
    1 point
  18. Using the LCD Auto-Home the print head. Move the nozzle 5mm in from the left edge of the build surface and 5mm in from the front of the build surface. With the Z at 0 select "Set Home Offsets" on the LCD. Select "Save Settings".
    1 point
  19. These are just some random thoughts... The typical printing materials are fond of water. I'm guessing that would be a downside so if you can get something with a low affinity for water, that would be a prime consideration. It may be why Delrin was picked over something like Nylon. A prototype for initial pressure testing could be made from something cheaper(?) Among other things, "Layer Adhesion" will play a part in water-tightness. Maybe a coating over the print? I would make the bottom of the vessel a dome. The print will be weaker than any traditiona
    1 point
  20. Good questions! Hopefully you'll find some help here. I'll also share this with our product experts if they have any input.
    1 point
  21. Hello Everybody! My brother in law has made a Crealty ender printer 6 profile for Mac and Windows. We have done some test prints and it looks promising. Please give us comments if you encounter any problems. otherwise have fun printing whit this profile!! Crealty_ender_6_printer profile cura_resources.zip
    1 point
  22. By the way, when I have critical dimensions - I usually print slightly small and then drill it out with the correct size drill. This may seem crazy but it's very easy and quick to do. The part guides the drill perfectly and you get perfect precision every time. Usually people complain about vertical holes (not horizontal). they tend to print 0.4mm too small due to liquid-rubber-band effect. I always make my holes about 0.4mm larger than desired and I *still* often drill out the most important ones.
    1 point
  23. The Ender 3 Pro has disallowed areas for the clips. They make the available area smaller in Cura but don't really help as far as the printer goes. The firmware only understands uppercase letters. Any lowercase command will be ignored. The Auto-Home position will likely be off the build surface. It's just a function of where the end stop switches are located. Auto-Home the print head. Use the LCD to move the nozzle 5mm in from the left edge of the build surface and 5mm in from the front of the build surface. With the Z at 0 select "Set Home Offsets" on the LCD.
    1 point
  24. I think this statement is a bit too generic. I use Windows 10, an ASUS motherboard and a Ryzen processor as well, graphics card is from NVIDIA.... And Cura runs just fine.
    1 point
  25. If you post the Gcode file and a 3mf file (with a model loaded use File | Save Project), somebody can look at it.
    1 point
  26. I see. These material settings are indeed not used at all for "Ultimaker 2" gcode flavor (and form only a "base-line" that is overridden by most of the profiles anyway...) Yep, change it on the printer (i think the menu entry is called "customize" (somewhere in the material settings). Or change the GCode-flavor in Cura to "Marlin". The latter gives you access to the material settings in the print profile and the start-/end-scripts as well. And the settings on the printer are not used anymore. Make your choice! 🙂
    1 point
  27. In 99% of all adhesion cases, the bed/nozzle leveling is not correct. I guess you nozzle is a bit too far away from the bed and the first layer is not squished into the bed. Try to level closer to the bed and print again. I assume you use PLA, right?
    1 point
  28. Changing the SD card and blowing out the printer worked. Thank you
    1 point
  29. "Experimental" -> "Make Overhang Printable" Well... this setting does exactly what you ask for. It changes the geometry and... "makes all overhangs printable" 🙂
    1 point
  30. There are two. Ultimaker_Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe I believe is the last Ultimaker release for 32bit. Smartavionics has a version of 4.x that he ported to 32 bit Cura-mb-master-win32-20201121.exe I have both installed on a Win7 desktop. They run fine.
    1 point
  31. Hey folks. I've got an Axiom dual, and used to have this problem, this thread is still the top search result so I figured I'd pitch in to help others out. I'm running decently well on this printer now. Airwolf listed a start and end code set for alternate slicers, but it's still got a couple problems. Most critical are that the temps used for auto-leveling are fixed values at 240, and Cura adds extruder temps before the Start Code. So the start code needs to be modified with material temp variables per extruder, and I prefer them to cool to the standby temp, not to 0 after auto-lev
    1 point
  32. Its great to sea that you respond to each other that's the benefit of a community. ass Gzz mentioned its based on the latest version but you can use it on any version. it is smart to backup your setting online true the backup function of cura. if an upgrade to a newer version goes wrong you can restore the backup. and restore your printers and profiles
    1 point
  33. I use Cura Ultimaker 4.8 (newest version) and the profile works fine and the printer is found under creality printers.
    1 point
  34. I think it is not necessary to duplicate the model. Simply select a different extruder for the cutting mesh (in addition to any other setting of you like) and you're done. Like in the following instructions: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  35. I'm sorry for the inconvenience. It really was what I wanted! I want to leave my thanks to your agility and help. Thank you very much
    1 point
  36. Hi John, Sound like there is still some left in there. You could work around the cleaning wizards and play with the temperatures yourself. If you use white or transparent filament to clean, you can observe well if there is still something filament left. Are you sure you have cleaned it all the way? Good luck!
    1 point
  37. Hi @amrahabibovic, I struggled a lot on this and maybe together we can find something out 😉 Thanks @utopiah to ping me on this. Here are some questions for you, and if I understand your problem I can provide a guideline to help you on this: 1) Do you want to slice a part with the parameters you have in Cura (the GUI), but you would like to do it with a command line? 2) Do you want to slice only one part at a time? 3) Would you like to orientate them in order to have a part well orientate and reduce the printing time? If the answer to those 3 que
    1 point
  38. I did a little experimentation and figured out why it suddenly started working for me. The answer is: it didn't. The selection and use of the hoops works just fine when I first open the app up. However, once I click on the Monitor tab and then back to the Prepare tab, that's when it stops working. As I workaround (at least for me) you only need to close and re-open the app making sure not to click on Monitor tab until you no longer need to interact with the translation tools.
    1 point
  39. Hallo, Also wenn das Glas noch ganz war kann ja am Heizbett nichts verbogen werden. Wellen wo schlagen kann man auch in eingebauten zustand prüfen, optisch oder evtl. mit einer Messuhr! Optisch würde ich einfach Druckkopf in der Mitte stellen und dann den Druckkopf von vorne nach hinten bewegen und auf den Sliding Block schauen, normal sollte man das erkennen wenn dieser hoch und runter geht. Ich meine sogar das ich darüber schon mal ein Video gesehen/gedreht hatte, aber weder ich noch online finde ich aktuell welche. Somit erkennt man aber nur wenn die W
    1 point
  40. Dieser Verzug war mit Sicherheit nicht im Auslieferungszustand...! Und wenn das Gehäuse so verspannt ist, muß das Irgendwo auch in den "Drehstangen" sich abzeichnen. Schließlich werden die im Gehäuse gelagert. Die Frage ist nur, ob Sie sich zueinander nur mit dem Wandern der Gehäuseteile "Verschoben" haben, oder aber einen "Schlag bekommen haben und dadurch das Gehäuse so verschoben ist. Es ist Zwar Stahl und Massiv, aber eben Rundmaterial. Entsprechend kann es in eine Richtung ausglengt und dauerhaft gebogen werden. Da ist dann ein richten aussichtslos. Schon ein "Schlag von einem Zehntel mer
    1 point
  41. Open %APPDATA%\cura\4.7\cura.cfg in a texteditor (eg notepad). In the [general] section, remove the lines starting with window_left and window_right Save the file and try starting Cura again. If that worked, go into the General preferences and uncheck the option to "Restore window position on start".
    1 point
  42. Further to my post above I think the options should be: "save changes to current material" "discard changes to current material" "save changes as new material" Thanks Peter
    1 point
  43. @neotko just ist watched your video on cabling the Duet3D board in the UM2. What firmware are you using? Marlin ported or another one? You then use the Duet display with, not the UM2 built in anymore? Cura works with it? What do you have to configure? As my UM2 board on my 2nd printer is broken (see other post) I am thinking about how large the Duet3D mod is in comparison to repairing the UM2 board... ;-)
    1 point
  44. Hi robobartz, I disagree. The Ultimaker printers are -at least since the UM2- equipped with an automatic belt tensioner for the long belts, which is integrated in the sliding blocks. If the belt gets loose at the opposite side (lower at front/back belt, higher at side belts), there is an easy way to tighten them again, as shown in the following video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: Regards
    1 point
  45. Just to keep it clear for anyone who reads this later, it wasn't an issue with a profile. Those are easy enough to deal with by exporting and importing. This had to do with a custom machine definition, which cannot be exported or saved, and recreating it involves creating/editing JSON files in the program directory. Not trying to dig at you at all - I appreciate the help - it's just that this is a different issue and I don't want anyone to get confused about it. Thanks!
    1 point
  46. I put all my Cura config stuff in a git repo so that from time to time I can make a snapshot to go back to when the latest Cura decides to trash something (I work on the bleeding edge). Of course, once the files are in a repo, it's easy to share the repo between computers.
    1 point
  47. Without actually going through all of the steps you have outlined, I can tell you for sure that the setting for STL, 3MF and AMF export out of SWX 2018 all carry over. The differences are only with regard to "Include Appearances" and "Include Colors" in the 3MF and AMF check boxes. STL does not have those options. As you can see the dialog box Title Bar is "System Options - STL/3MF/AMF". No matter which file format one chooses the settings are always the same. Does that help?
    1 point
  48. Plus tu pédales moins vite, moins t'avance plus doucement (et vice-versa).
    1 point
  49. An easy way around is to make a JPEG-image of every model you design, with the exact same name. Thus the corresponding 3D-model, STL, gcode and JPG-file all have the same name. By browsing through the JPG-files with an image viewer (e.g. IrfanView on a Windows system), you can easily find which file is which. It doesn't work on the printer itself of course, but at least you can easily see which gcode-files to copy to SD-card. In addition you could add the main parameters in the filename of the gcode (max 20 characters before the extension). For example: - model_v33.rsdoc (native DesignSpar
    1 point
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