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  1. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
    8 points
  2. I think you're looking for "Merge Models" - this function aligns multiple loaded models in respect to their origin. The way this works is: first load all separate parts, then select all (STRG + A) and "merge" their position (STRG + ALT + G). https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011738340-How-to-merge-and-group-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    3 points
  3. A bit of nuance here; We are not all knowing or infallible. By all means ask questions as to why something is the way it is. If we can't explain why we did (or did not) do something it's a sign that something should be done. These kind of challenges are what improves things. There is value in the remarks of those that are experienced and those that are new, but they tend to be on different "levels" (eg; I don't really look at the features intended for novices and i'm unlikely to notice certain quirks of the interface because i'm too experienced!) Also, Cura does have variable layer height a
    3 points
  4. The version of Sidebar GUI with an undockable sidebar has been released on the Marketplace for your undocking pleasure.
    3 points
  5. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    3 points
  6. Hi guys. I have just updated to version 4.8 and the issue was solved. No idea but it worked. Thanks for all the help and for everyone to reach to me to offer me a slice version for my printer. As well thanks to @GregValiant and @Torgeir for the troubleshooting here. I am amazed by the wonderful community here!
    3 points
  7. It isn't the model per se (which is watertight), but it might be the way it was modeled. I was using .4 nozzle and line width, .2 layer height. All 3 images are layer 9. My only change was wall thickness. 2 then 3 then 4 loops. This is at 0.8 walls. The infill is into the door area. There are open rectangles throughout the wall. This is at 1.2 walls. The infill has retreated from the door. Note that the holes in the wall have turned into filled rectangles with the lines running at [0,90]. Subsequent layers cover the fancy rectangles. This one i
    3 points
  8. This software is free, was made by people working in their free time, and the source code is open and available to anyone who wants to take a look and help improve it, so please keep that in mind. Second, your problem is almost certainly due to arcs being disabled in your firmware. I'm guessing you upgraded your printer with a bed leveler, and flashed new firmware for that. I see lots of these firmware forks, and most of them have arcs disabled for creality printers due to limited program space. It's very easy to check to see if arcs are enabled within your printer's firmware by sendin
    3 points
  9. I am very much pro recycling and pro clean oceans. So it is good that this plastic garbage is collected. But that garbage collected from the oceans is a mix of ABS, PET, PP, HDPE, LDPE, PC, PS, PLA and other stuff. And it is partially broken down by sunlight, eaten by bacteria, contaminated with salt, bacteria, algae, sand, paint, paper labels,etc... There is no way you can make high-quality products from that in an economical way. To sort-out and purify this garbage, you would need to burn maybe 10x more oil than it takes to make new plastic from that oil. So I think t
    3 points
  10. A few tips (maybe you already know them, maybe not): If you would go the moulding and casting route, be sure to post-process your mould very well: remove all layer lines as much as possible by sanding, coating/painting, or chemical smoothing. Otherwise the cast may be very hard to remove, as each layer line acts as a tiny undercut. Don't ask how I know... :-) I do the smoothing with dichloromethane now. (See my separate post on: chemical smoothing PLA and PET with dichloromethane, should come up in search.) And I make my moulds in silicone from 3D-printed models, and i
    2 points
  11. Hi all, We've release firmware 6.2 for the S-line printers. It's got some neat performance improvements, and as a user you can now choose which firmware release channel you want, latest, which is greatest, or stable, for updates 3-4 times a year. Check out the full release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012055979 Download it in via your favorite method, either on the printer directly or get the .swu update file here. Thanks!
    2 points
  12. Any hat that requires a video to explain it is ridiculous by definition. I've built 12. The fire helmet has 6-AAA batteries, 1-9 volt battery, 2 music speakers, 1 speaker for the bell, 5 circuit boards, 210 LED's, 70 rivets, somewhere around 60 feet of #26 wire, 11 switches, a variety of ostrich plumes for various holidays, and it weighs just under a kilo. I didn't bother getting the blue-tooth to work since I refuse to give up my flip phone.
    2 points
  13. Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate
    2 points
  14. @gr5, it's the Y so 20mm below the build plate mid-point. I'm going to ignore the suitability of "Origin at Center". @onr, Look at the Cura origin icon. The green arm is the Y. The Cura origin is showing "+Y" as being UP in the view. Now look at the "part" origin icon. The part origin green arm is point down. I have no idea why that is, but that is the confusion. You moved the part Y-20 in relation to itself, but the "part" origin (not the part itself) is mirrored about the X in relation to Cura. So in that view, the part is sitting wholly in the +Y even though you have it
    2 points
  15. This is a more close up pictures for sure, -but cannot be sure that there is an open wiring. At this close distance from the heater core, the heat will extend along the wire and sometimes you burn the insulation at some distance from the sleeve. But with this much wear and tear on the fastening tab, it's strange if there is no hole in the wires insulation.. Another thing, if there is no short here, this short/close distance -mean higher capacitance. So could this increased capacitance be the reason for (out of specification sensed) this error? For sure, there
    2 points
  16. Typically each model is brought into Cura by Center-of-Geometry and each model would need the same Center-of-Geometry in order to locate them correctly relative to each other. It is possible to use programs like Blender or 3D Builder to impart location data into the STL or 3mf. I haven't played with that very much. To fool Cura into becoming an assembly modeler I do the following. My build plate is 230 X 230. I create a build plate in the Cad program up to 230 x 230 x 5 with the top at Z=0. My real models are above it and oriented the way I want. The build plate gets merg
    2 points
  17. 1) the bed temperature: does it also show as way too hot on the temperature logging page? 2) the hotend: the most likely cause is the printhead's front fan not spinning correctly anymore this causes the hotends to heat up beyond the heat break and can be caused by very thin strands of filament ending up in the fan. The fact that your hotend melted the plastic at the top of the hotend probably means you have indeed baked you Teflon insert in the hotend (this shouldn't be heated to PLA melting temperatures!!! that damages it for sure). So like @gr5 said you should replace the hotends,
    2 points
  18. (if I am not painfully obvious, this is intended as a joke)
    2 points
  19. Thanks for deleting your comment. Yes, from my point of view, even if the comments are technically well-founded, I feal it disrespectful to the work and service FREELY provided by Ultimaker and the development teams working on the product. Cura takes longer than others to get started ... Yes and ? in my case it's 15s while all the others takes 2 or 3s. It's true but what does 12s change in my life ? And when a print takes 2 days to finish: 2 days =172800s = 11520 Cura start There is no variable layer height yes, but PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, Ideamaker, IceSL, Craf
    2 points
  20. What about the official "print core cleaning maintenance instructions": https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652559-Print-core-cleaning-maintenance-schedule While you're at it - take a look at all other maintenance tasks too... 🙂 https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013135039-Maintenance-schedule-of-the-Ultimaker-S5
    2 points
  21. Whoops. That was a typo on my end! But yeah we could setup a discord server if there is interest for it.
    2 points
  22. Paints usually belong in an eco-system: Acrylics with acrylics and solvent based with solvent based. Also, making sure what will bind, will bind well. Also there are brand based ecosystems. Also, usually you can paint acrylics on a good primer base and then solvent based on top of that will usually work. This allow me to paint with an acrylic primer and then paint with any solvent based paint. In this print I used only the paints with the same base properties (as well as a brand based eco-system). These paints are part of the Dupli-Color anodized paint series. They prov
    2 points
  23. Yes, it was released 2 days after the release of 6.1.0
    2 points
  24. Hi unfortunately I don't think this is possible. I can remember that someone asked the same question in the past and there was no solution for it.
    2 points
  25. You meant "curaengine.exe". Actually getting curaengine to slice with a full profile is not trivial, but can be done.
    2 points
  26. Hi @jeffroe, Did you really unplug the cooling fan and test? This is a must to do as the fan might create to much noise, even if the cables are located in the right place when fan is running.. This is something @fbrc8-erin learned us sometime ago. When the leveling process start, the program read the "capacity plus stray capacity" in the head. As long this capacity is within specs, the bed start ricing. At certain height the program expect to see that the capacity is increasing, but if this is not happen, the bed go to home position the process is aborted and signal an
    2 points
  27. 2 points
  28. Good afternoon from frozen Ottawa! With apologies if this has been beaten to death. I've been reading the extensive threads on firmware issues. While likely very rare, considering the numbers of units in the wild, firmware failures are so disruptive to any sort of commercial process that, like many I suppose, I'm running a number of versions behind, simply because it is stable and I don't want to rock the boat. Of course running with obsolete firmware will only work so long before the point where I can't print what Cura outputs and may not be able to direc
    2 points
  29. another user that created an account just to acknowledge that this fixed the issue for me.
    2 points
  30. It is one of the reasons why we are changing our release schedule. We are going to work with a Stable and Latest channel. People who want latest and greatest can just stay on latest (about 8 releases per year) and always get updates. People who want more stability can choose "Stable". We will only release about 3 times a year to Stable and only with features that are already (previously) released to Latest. We are indeed spending more and more time on this issue. We do not only extensively test all releases with many different configurations (both hardware and firmware),
    2 points
  31. Just be careful putting them in the oven as an oven a low temps can fluctuate too much and overheat the spool. I tend to use the heat bed of the printer. A food dehydrator also works very well. If it is too dry then I would leave it out in open for a 4 or 5 hours and it would soften enough. But I live in 60+ humidity
    2 points
  32. Work in progress... https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki
    2 points
  33. Hi @rman45 I'm curious about the changes that are required to make your plugin work. If Ultimaker would implement those for you, we could maybe save you a lot of uncertainties. I'd also like to know which API you are referring to, that you want to use. To make absolutely sure; this is not a promise, I'm just curious what would need to be changed where. By the way: the 'Olimex' part, the software that runs on Debian, is closed source.
    2 points
  34. Because you told it so. You told it you have an Ultimaker S5 and named it Labists ET4. But naming it is just a label. Cura will use settings specific for the Ultimaker S5, which are wrong for your printer. In the Add Printer dialog, scroll down the list of printers and try finding one that is a better fit to your printer than the Ultimaker S5.
    2 points
  35. I have a nice system for these situations. It is powered by two of the printer stepper motors so they must function. It requires a table the same height as the window sill, and two pulleys (one to open the window and the other to drag the printer over the sill). The system was designed with PencilCAD so no translation software is necessary (though you will appreciate that Email won't work). There is one constraint regarding printer defenestration: A first floor window above a flower garden doesn't work well. A 10th floor window above a concrete parking lot is very satisfying (
    2 points
  36. 1) To share a project file go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here. 2) It's very hard to see in your photo to see what is infill and what isn't. There is a row across the top of the screen (PREPARE PREVIEW MONITOR). The next row down you have "color scheme" set to material color. Please change that to "line type" and then the different line types will be different colors a
    2 points
  37. That means they are enabled, so you should be good to go! If you are using OctoPrint, that will disconnect your printer, but that's expected, and causes no harm. Just reconnect and know that empty G2/G3 commands will NOT be generated by ArcWelder (unless there is a bug, lol). Just open the file and search for G2/G3 commands and see if there are any. If you are using OctoPrint, you might want to try out the beta version of the Arc Welder OctoPrint plugin (you can disable it later when you are comfortable). It has a firmware checker, will give you a ton of useful statistics yo
    2 points
  38. The biggest implication being that Ultimaker pays them to develop software for Ultimaker printers. The fact that it can also be used for other printers is a bonus. But any feature that does not directly benefit Ultimaker printers either has to come from community members like @burtoogle or me, or from printer manufacturers. The Ultimaker employees still take time to check and include these contributions, but at times they also have to reject features because it would take the project too far from what Ultimaker needs or it would take too much time in the future to maintain the feature in the c
    2 points
  39. I think this is what you want HERE. You copy and paste a bunch of lines from the log file (that you download), and paste it into your Machine Settings End-Gcode. It's an older file and you might have to cross-reference the keywords to make sure they are all included and that none have been deprecated (they are HERE). The plan is that when you generate a gcode file all the keywords get replaced by the actual values from the settings in Cura. I haven't used it (too much information) but it looks like it would be laid out nice and neat without all the newline characters that are in the pa
    2 points
  40. 2 points
  41. Testing junction deviation with linear advance and arc welder: First test: linear advance + junction deviation + arc welder + "G90 influences extruder" on. This caused the extruder to vibrate a lot on corners, with the XY movement almost completely stopping there. Gave up the print on the first layer afraid it could damage de extruder. Curved motion was smooth on the XY axis. Second test: linear advance + junction deviation + arc welder + "G90 influences extruder" off. Same. Maybe LA is causing the issue. Third test: junction deviation + arc wel
    2 points
  42. It is 100% a visualization problem. If you have OctoPrint installed anywhere, I highly recommend using 'PrettyGcodeViewer' to look at these files. It uses a port of Marlin 2.0's arc interpolation algorithm, so you can be sure what you are see is what you will get. Barring that, Simplify 3d is the 2nd best viewer, though it also renders arcs with a relatively low resolution (think scad's facet setting if it is low). It is still very good. NCViewer.com is SO SO close to being great, but it does need a few tweaks, like ignoring some gcodes (it treats progress gcodes like arcs for some reason
    2 points
  43. Working model of wind turbine for O scale model railroad. Stepper motor in base, vertical shaft, gears on top. The base uses the 'fuzzy skin' function of Cura. First time I have used that for a 'production' piece.
    2 points
  44. Disabling "Remove Empty First Layers" allowed to slice in mid-air.
    2 points
  45. The reason should be very simple: The print object or parts of it have lost their adhesion to the heating bed and have been carried away. This causes the nozzle to stick to the printing part, but the stepper continues to convey material because it does not notice anything. The material can no longer come down through the nozzle, but the pressure increases continuously. It burns its way up along the hot nozzle - and quickly pours in your printhead. Digibike
    1 point
  46. Without knowing your model, your printer and your particular CPE, I can only guess... The best thing you could do, is cut out the most critical and most representative parts of your model, such as overhangs or bridges. And combine these into a new *small* test model which takes only maybe 30 minutes to complete and doesn't use much filament. Test and optimise on this until you get it good. Overdo in one direction, then overdo in the other, and gradually find the optimal center. This is going to cost time, but you learn quickly. Of course there can still be scaling problems later on
    1 point
  47. Du PETg, c'est du PETg. Le problème ce n'est pas tant le filament mais le process de fabrication. Il y a une différence entre pièce moulée sous vide/pression et une pièce imprimée en 3D avec des aspérités possiblement partout. Le problème du contact avec la peau, c'est la présence ou pas de perturbateurs endocriniens entre autre... Mais rien n'empêche de mettre une "barrière" entre la plastique et la peau...
    1 point
  48. Nozzle Diameter (mm) Layer Height (mm) Print Speed (mm/min) Print Speed (mm/sec) Throughput (mm^3/sec) 0.40 0.05 1000.00 16.67 0.33 2000.00 33.33 0.67 3000.00 50.00 1.00 4000.00 66.67 1.33 5000.00 83.33 1.67 0.10 1000.00 16.67 0.67 2000.00 33.33
    1 point
  49. Thank you! I never would have thought that USB was just a plugin. I still think it's weird that the USB autodetection affects unrelated devices. On the other hand there are probably not many people out there with something like that fan controller still in active service.
    1 point
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