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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/15/2021 in Posts

  1. I'm working on a new plugin that adds a simple measuring aid to Cura: In its current incarnation, the tool lets you pick (and drag) two points and shows the distance between these points. A test-version can be downloaded here: MeasureTool Download the file and drop it onto the buildplate in Cura as if you were opening a 3d model. Then restart Cura as instructed.
    7 points
  2. The beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.9 is here. This release contains a bundle of bug fixes and feature improvements increasing software stability, and further simplifying and streamlining print preparation as you continuously strive for first-time right results.  What’s new? The Z-seam is now clearly shown in Preview mode.  This ensures that you will know whether the seam will be sufficiently hidden in the end product. This will also indicate the starting point of the print. Thanks to BasF0 for contribut
    5 points
  3. Hi all, We've got new firmware for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. It is a really nice update which contains some great work from the team. You can enjoy greater integration with the Digital Factory, and we've tackled a number of bugs that were lurking behind the scenes. Check out the release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017358580-Ultimaker-2-Connect-firmware-release-notes Also, check out the video 🙂 Cheers!
    3 points
  4. So I'm driving across Texas on a lovely day and I stop for gas. It happens to be a full service station and the fella comes out to pump the gas. I've been staring at the same scenery for 5 or 6 hours and I mentioned "Wow, is it ever flat here." to which he replied: 'Yep. If you stare in any direction long enough you'll see the back of your own head." I like that one. Science in the middle of nowhere.
    3 points
  5. Experienced the same problem, after installing Cura 4.8.0 on MacOS Big Sur 11.1. Under 'Preferences/general' I enabled the "force layer view compatibility" setting (just a guess) and did a restart. Then layer-view worked, but now x-ray didn't display anything. So I disabled above setting again and did another restart. Now everything works. Maybe just a restart would have solved it too.
    3 points
  6. ‣ Push the collet down ‣ insert the bowden and push it in with some force ‣ pull the collet up (with some force) while still pushing the bowden down ‣ insert the clip The original clip is 1.4mm thick. I designed clips with 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 1.7 mm and 1.8 mm to increase tension on the collet if necessary. Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,4mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,5mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,6mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,7mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,8mm.stl
    3 points
  7. Note that the Ultimaker 2+ Connect cover WILL NOT FIT your ultimaker 2+. 1) I recommend not using ABS - not sure which property you care about but PLA is typically and tough PLA is tougher. If you want higher temp filament there are other choices (depending on temperature) such as nGen and PETG that are easier to print and don't smell so horrible as ABS. 2) splitting is caused by bad layer adhesion. You can simply lower the fan. A lot. Experiment with the fans - in TUNE menu, bring it down to 0% and then up very slowly until it starts spinning. Note the minimum % w
    2 points
  8. What is the purpose of this post here? If you don't like the plugin, don't use it. @5axes has no obligations to you. Most spreadsheets I used present me with a dialog that lets me select the separator when I import a CSV file. And by "most", I mean all that I can remember using. The link to the rant you posted has no relation to this issue or this forum, so to me it only comes across as link-spam.
    2 points
  9. When the build plate is lowered after the printing is finished, it's ususally impossible to see the final result through the in-built camera. I put a mirror on the left hand wall. Voilà!
    2 points
  10. I stumbled across two companies now when i looked for other stuff and maybe it helps. First Extrudr, which has 3 different types. They seem to be in Austria. Second Unicofil (never heard of them before), which seems to have exactly what you want. They are from Germany. But maybe you can get it somewhere shipped to UK. Greetings
    2 points
  11. I recently modelled this, and printed it on the ultimaker 2+. It prints with no support. I designed it in the software Zbrush. Currently I am working on a much larger version - I have split the design into 7 sections, and will then glue and assemble it 🙂 I have made the file availible for free download here. I do my modelling via live streaming on twitch and youtube live, the links for checking it out are here. If anyone has a go at printing the design i'd be keen to know how it turns out.
    2 points
  12. yess, that's the point 😔 I'm dreaming of an analog computer since over 25 years looks nice on the first view first little test-cylinder got printed without explosions or a burning printer the gcode-file of my model comes down from over 200MB to almost 70MB (6,607,713 lines to 2,048,472) I'll have a look at the acr-settings in my marlin and will do a ~20h testprint I'll check if there is any way to get it done with one click like SolidWorks-Plugin does - just i high-quality here you see the diffrent resolutions: right is 'coarse' - 0,05788cm
    2 points
  13. Psst! Don't look now, but someone mirrored the Cura logo!
    2 points
  14. When I first moved to Cura 4.7 I noticed a fall in print quality. Curves and arcs were very blobby, and I didn't know what had happened. About the time that 4.8 came out I read a blurb someplace that explained that the Creality printers weren't capable of handling the fine resolution settings contained within the Cura machine definitions for the Creality printers. The main problem was with the Mesh Fixes | Maximum Resolution of 0.05. An adjustment to 0.4 made a huge difference in the quality around curves and arcs. The number of extremely short line segments was reduced and my printer/
    2 points
  15. commenting on wjbdesign post above: People think cranking up the resolution in CAD will make a print better but if there are too many triangles in the STL that means there are even more moves in the gcode and the firmware in printers can only look forward about 16 moves and has to be ready to stop and can get overwhelmed if there are too many moves in the next 8mm of printing at any given moment and this can cause the printer to stutter (slowing down and speeding up too much) and this can cause ugly prints. Only one possible cause among many. So yes don't have too many triang
    2 points
  16. That's what a "slicer" such as Cura is used for. First you extract the 3d model(s) from the zip file, and load them into the slicer. Then you tell the slicer how you want the model(s) to be printed, and the slicer creates a gcode file for you.
    2 points
  17. Your model is probably not manifold. Are you willing to publish the STL file here? if not there are lots of model services on the internet that check your model. Also what CAD are you using? Different types of CAD result in different solutions. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" an
    2 points
  18. You can use the post-processing plugin "Change At Z". That plugin does have some issues (the "By Height" option does not work well with adaptive layers or Z hops - they confuse it) but the "By Layer" option will work fine. The second issue is that "Change Bed Temp" does not work with "Target Layer Only". That shouldn't be a problem with what you're trying to do. So under "Extensions" select Post-Processing and Modify G-code. In the dialog that comes up select "Add a Script" and pick "Change At Z" from the list. Within the Change at Z options select "By Layer" and then "Target
    2 points
  19. First thing I would try. is to cut the material and remove it from the "Bowden" tubing. Cut the material at the material bay inserting point, then I would un-clip the tube from the extruder end and remove the material from the tubes. I would then, put another material of the same type into a different material station bay, load it and make sure the printer identifies it as the correct material (same as data sent by "CURA"). Then wait a few minutes to see if the print starts again (give in 10 mins min). If the printer doesn't resume, it may need p
    2 points
  20. Hi gr5. Looking at the picture of the white model the skirt looks pretty good and so do the loops of the model itself. They look like they welded together so the height couldn't be too far off. On the other hand, the first layer skin is a mess. Scouty, gr5 made an in-depth video on bed adhesion that covers most issues. For me, I clean the glass with IPA, and then give it a dusting with Aquanet Super Hold hairspray, and I level with a piece of parchment paper. I get consistently good starts to prints. Since gr5's video will cover adhesion, I'll go over some things about leveling (setting
    2 points
  21. Oh I found this: if using blender - here's how to fix your model I went into edit mode with the object in Blender 2.83 and pressed "a" which selects all faces / vertices / edges, depending on what select mode you are in. The entire object should be highlighted. I then went to "Mesh" (see images), went to the "Normals" section, and selected "Recalculate Outside". This probably will not fix any edges that are not merged, but it will fix the faces that are inverted on the object.
    2 points
  22. If you have a heat gun with a narrow nozzle and can shield the print core frame so it doesn't warp, you can focus on the nozzle area and gradually work outward. It looks from your photos as if you did not get much material on the heater or sensor cables. That is a win. If it is mostly on the heat block, slow and steady, you should manage to get everything off. John
    2 points
  23. Ach... das habe ich vor zwei Wochen hier schonmal ausführlicher erklärt und vorgeschlagen. @ThK - wir drehen uns hier im Kreis, wenn Du die (doofen?) Antworten nicht beachtest und immer wieder die gleiche Frage stellst - ich bin raus...
    2 points
  24. I have a Win7 desktop that I use for older software. I installed Cura 2.3 and then came across the SmartAvionics version (of 4.6?) that he ported to 32 bit. You can go HERE on Github and scroll down to the download link. It works alright. The user interface is also from 4.6. The screen fonts are hard to read. All the recent settings are there. If I switch back and forth between printers it will crash once in a while (but so does 4.8). The fella that released it used to hang around here but hasn't dropped in for a while. If you have questions about the version you can probab
    2 points
  25. In Cura there is a thing called "Use Adaptive Layers" in the experimental section. You can search for it in the search bar or go to preferences and check the box to make sure it is easily found. I have all my settings exposed to make finding things easier meself. Hope this helps 🙂
    2 points
  26. I have the 1.75 conversion kit and have used it from time to time on my S3, its easy to install on the printer but keep in mind in doing so you need to turn off the filament flow sensor or it will be thinking its run out of filament all the time so keep in mind you will lose that feature of the printer. As for software side of it, in Cura i edited the printer settings for the print core to say it's using a 1.75 and to be extra sure i added a 1.75 material profile also. Note when you edit the extruder settings that cura will when display the material profiles for f
    2 points
  27. Because STL doesn't define what the 0,0,0 point is with respect to the build plate. There are a lot of models where the point is therefore chosen completely arbitrarily. As such, cura loads the models, places them on the buildplate and then tries to find a spot for them where they fit. 3MF does not have this problem, since it does define where the origin is (it's always in the front left corner of the buildplate). I cant stress this enough; 3MF is a superior file format over STL in every single way.
    2 points
  28. I'm no expert in the UM2+, but search this forum for PTFE coupler. It is the white plastic (teflon) part inside the print head which degrades at temperatures higher than 230C. The higher the temperature the faster. When it degrades the inner diameter becomes smaller and it will become more difficult for the filament to get through. These are cheap replacement parts, just order a few. Quality differs so you might browse this forum for opinions. Both the Ultimaker and 3Dsolex parts were recommended.
    2 points
  29. First have a goal. What do you want to print. Art? Brackets? No idea? If no idea then type "kitchen" as a search term in thingiverse.com. Or type your car. Or walk around your house looking for something broken. Once you have a general idea we can then talk about what CAD you should learn. Or you can use this nice guide. All the CAD programs out there has endless and wonderful tutorials. https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448
    2 points
  30. I don't think this is in normal cura but it is DEFINITELY in the MB version of cura made by our own @burtoogle and I've used this feature many times - it's very useful for me when printing above 200mm/sec. There are all kinds of bridge settings. By the way, in either version of cura, once you have the advanced settings open, type "bridge" in the settings search box and it shows you things even if they are normally invisible. Anyway here it is: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases Yeah it seems sketchy but I vouch for the guy. I've met him in
    2 points
  31. The normal X=0, Y=0 is the left from corner. Delta printers use "Origin at Center", but essentially no other printers use it, so make sure it's turned off in the Machine Settings in Cura. You cannot just replace the negative signs in a gcode file to fix it. Consider that if an extrusion went from X-100 to X+100 and you removed the negative sign, instead of an extrusion 200mm long it would be 0mm long. You didn't mention the printer, but if you absolutely gotta haveta print that particular gcode file you can change the Home Offsets by adding a line to the beginning of
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. It describes it correct, yet we have encountered multiple firmwares that implement responses and behaviors fundamentally different. So again, you are arguing the theoretical difficulty of something and I am arguing the practical difficulty of it. No, it's a qualitative explanation. But in the same sense, your arguments aren't quantitative either, so why is it suddenly an issue? Just go over to the Octoprint forums and the amount of issues that project has with supporting all the different types of USB printing. Note that Octoprint is a product that is run by an incredible tal
    1 point
  34. Thanks for reporting, I'll relay this to the team working on this functionality.
    1 point
  35. It submits the data automatically after establishing the link and on each Cura startup.
    1 point
  36. This is not possible. If you have STLs created in imperial units, I recommend the "Barbarian Plugin" by @nallath (in the marketplace) to convert them to metric.
    1 point
  37. Wenn ich einen Tip geben darf - Generell beim Konstruieren: Nimm mal 2 STLs und plaziere Sie überlappend im Slicer. Wenn du das Sliced, weiss der Slicer nicht mehr, was er da, wo sich 2 Modelle überlappen drucken soll - 2mal geht ja schlecht... Ähnliches im CAD/bei der Konstruktion.... Entweder man konstruiert exakt auf die Kontur oder man erzeugt den Körper 2× (Aussenkontur) und zieht Sie Boolsch vorher ab und addiert die eigentliche Form dann Boolsch. Dauert vielleicht etwas länger, aber die CAD tut sich, vor allem bei komplexen Konstruktionen, deutlich leichter und die STL ist nachher "sa
    1 point
  38. Blender! @Bigred try this - the first thing fixes normals, not manifoldness. Normals tell cura which side of every triangle faces air versus plastic. More about creating printable files with blender: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-blender/
    1 point
  39. Got the following message today when powering-up the printer: "Difference between detected height of both print cores exceeds realistic values". See attached image. After reading many posts online with troubleshooting solutions such as 'bad ground causing capacitive sensor to fail' or 'removing at least one print head fixed the problem', I opened the fan door and looked at the capacitive sensor (white PCB with two wires labelled 'sensor' and 'shield'). On both sides are two bent pins coming-out of the plated PCB holes (pins are bent outwards). I guess the company will n
    1 point
  40. Hi all, We've released new firmware to the latest firmware release channel. Its a small update which mainly contains bug fixes and allows for better software integration with the cloud, no functionality changes included in this one. Check out the release notes here, and if you upgrade via USB get the file from here. Enjoy!
    1 point
  41. Thanks guys! I figured it out when I assembled my um. Both 5mm spacers goes to the front of the 8mm Y-axis for anyone wondering. The new Z stage bearings was a great "upgrade". I bought a new z nut aswell and made a anti-backlash nut with a spring as someone posted on a other forum. The bed vibrations are gone now! I still have some problems going on that I have not figured out yet. My bowden tube is leaning to the right and I'm experience some under extruding still. Even with all new print head parts. Perhaps it's due to the bowden tilting to the side.. I have ordered a
    1 point
  42. Naja Du hast ja schon bei Printer Geometry einen groben Fehler gemacht, oder hast du deinen UM2 auf CoreXY umgebaut. Google mal wie CoreXY ausschaut Du hast in Z kein Endstop? Dafür eine Z-Zonde verbaut?? Weiteres musst du da wählen ob es Öffner oder Schließer Schalter sind Und beim den Temp Sensors hast du die Thermistoren gewählt, Wuste gar nicht das der UM2 Thermistoren verbaut hat. Nach meiner Kenntnis hat der UM PT100 verbaut Die Endstop Position in Y und Z stimmt auch nicht So das waren jetzt nur die groben Fehler die ich in RepRapFirmware configurat
    1 point
  43. You could run the diagnostics for the activ leveling sensor and refer to the result. The diagnostics will show you if the sensor works correctly, of if there's an interference-problem or a problem with the sensor. I don't think it's interference, as you've checked nearly every possible source and the other printer in this room works properly. Is the light in that room a possible source for EMI? I guess it's a problem with the wires that connect the leveling sensor with the printhead board (but that's just a guess). Regards
    1 point
  44. Ja das hilft auch, wobei 30 ebenfalls kein Thema sein sollte. Aber wichtig beim First Layer ist, dass die Unterseite passt. Also gut auf die Platte gequetscht aber nicht zu viel. Die Oberseite ist wenig relevant, da kommt dann eh der nächste Layer der dann alles "unschöne " ausgleicht.
    1 point
  45. It's well possible that there are errors in the model that cause this. That's the first thing i would check. Can you share the stl file here or is it somehow confidential? If you enable travel lines in the preview - are there travel moves with dark blue lines displayed in those places? This would mean that there's no retraction at all (no matter of retraction distance and speed settings). Next topic to check: Or there are so many retractions that the maximum count (90 per 4 mm extrusion) is exceeded. I would switch the combing mode back on to avoid the latter. The max
    1 point
  46. As Aquasys120 does usually stick pretty well to Ultimaker PC, I think the issues in your case come from the support generated by Cura. They seem to be very small and fragile. I suggest you increase the supports a bit by using the join distance and horizontal expansion options in the support section of Cura.
    1 point
  47. This is your main problem, the unused nozzle will travel over your object and leave its marks. You can only try to play with the Retract settings and eventually go down with the standby temperature to prevent the nozzle from dripping.
    1 point
  48. Minor Screw Up on my side, I just noticed that doesn't work. Instead the line has to be: G0 X{prime_tower_position_x} Y{prime_tower_position_y} As it was in my original comment it just results in nothing happening at all.
    1 point
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