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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/02/2021 in Posts

  1. As others have written already, it is incredibly convenient when combined with a material station (and multiple printers) for the S5. Personally, for spools which I "load and use to completion" (such as DPA or PVA support material) I usually don't bother adding an NFC tag to them -- there's not much being time saved. However for spools that I need to load/unload several times (such as rarely used colours or materials) having them be autodetected by way of an NFC tag is an incredible convenience. It also takes the uncertainty out of asking somebody not used to the printe
    3 points
  2. It's a know problem of the slicing engine. You can play with a different line width but often you cannot get rid of it. But download and try the new Arachne engine alpha/beta Cura. I use it since the first alpha version and I don't see this issue anymore.
    3 points
  3. Hi @UALib3D, I've just printed your model using Cura 4.10.0 and Arachne engine beta. Printed it with black TPLA as it (black color) have better emission than any other color. As I've an UMS3, I used same print quality profile (corrected with your setting and those I've added). Made some pictures of the two prints in daylight for better details.. The first two pictures is just finished printing with Cura 4.10.0 : In this two pictures above you can see the boundary between the support and the model. The support just snap
    3 points
  4. J'aimerais connaître le nombre de personnes qui n'ont posté qu'une seule fois et que l'on ne voit plus? Et sur ce nombre, combien ont lâché complètement l'impression3d car ils pensaient que c'était facile et qu'il suffisait d'appuyer sur un bouton. (Car ils ignoraient tout l'amont de la chose notamment la conception de la pièce en 3d)
    3 points
  5. C'est ici qu'on a le droit de se moquer des imprimantes chinoises à auto-combustion intégrée ?
    2 points
  6. As already said, I don't know why there is no developer mode with SSH connection, but SSH was enabled in the very first pre-release firmware, so I guess it is just deactivated. Just an idea if someone wants to tinker and try it on their own risk. The built in Onion board has a serial connector and they offer an "expansion dock" with a USB to serial. So if you buy such an expansion board you should be able to connect to the console of the Onion. Then you could just do what you want or enable the SSH daemon. Not sure if it really works, but I read the docs of the Onion
    2 points
  7. No it is not. The bug that this thread is discussing caused the renamed printer to revert back after a restart. You have hit a particular case of "known behavior". In your case, you are trying to rename the printer to a name that is already taken up internally, so Cura adds the number (" #2"). You can rename the printer to anything other than the name without the "#2" postfix, and the rename should work.
    2 points
  8. @Dan92 en modélisation oui il faut de la rigueur. Bien que ce soit fait par ordinateur, si il y a une erreur c'est parfois/souvent de la faute de la personne qui est devant son écran. Mais ça s'apprend au fur et à mesure malheureusement il n'y a pas encore de bouton magique pour sortir ce que l'on veut 🙂 C'est d'ailleurs pour cela que lorsque l'on me demande de modéliser un personnage, je ne peux pas le sortir pour 20€ au grand désarroi de certains ^^ Donc non seulement il faut de la rigueur mais aussi du temps, des tests, qui forgent l'expérience. @Nano-nc et @darkdvd, niveau cylindre, j'a
    2 points
  9. Cura works in millimeters, are you sure you didn't accidentally export at the wrong scale from your CAD program?
    2 points
  10. #metoo Ultimaker disappointed me too with there Apple style approach of GUI's. We are engineers! We have to deal with technical systems. As ZD3D calls it, not with toys. An simple temperature indication would have safe me an hour on finding out the wrong profile was selected for some part. Feed-rate an speed are also not that hard to plot on the GUI. And maybe it's the lake of processing power for the display but the "fade" effect between selection and menus is on addition of the poor rotary button extremely toy feeling. Please give us tools to work with. Not a toy with one play button!
    2 points
  11. Hi all, We've released 6.5.0 for the S-line printers to the latest firmware channel. There's some real nice updates in there, check out the release notes page. Just to highlight a few: Scan USB drive for material profiles. It will now be possible to add a material profile to the S-line printer from a USB drive. The printer can update its material list with any missing material profiles found in the print job files (UFP files) of an inserted USB stick. Import the profile by navigating to maintenance -> import material profiles. This allows for offline
    2 points
  12. It is easy to find the Cura.log file. Open Cura, got to the HELP menu, there you find a topic with Show configuration folder, click on it. Then am explorer window opens with the folder and there you find the Cura.log file. You should also understand that a log file is needed to get more informations about the problem. Just to say it is not working is not enough to find and reproduce an failure, so it is fully understandable that they need this information. Anyway, now you know where to find the Cura.log file and you should be able to open an issue again on Github
    2 points
  13. OK, so this is the print of Pyramid 5. There is very little difference between the two methods of spiralize. One with smoothing on (left side) and one with smoothing off (right Side). Not really much difference. Could have tweaked the settings to get the top to print better, but it was not the issue. Also lousy trimming of the brim. However, after re-reading the OP, I noticed it did mention using Pyramid 4 and I found the issue immediately: Here you can see that a straight slice produces the holes, or gaps. I used Cura 4.8, but have no expectation that there would be any
    2 points
  14. This is not a model error. This is the setting "Enable coasting". You can find this setting way down in the Experimental tab in cura. It is probably enabled in your given printer profile. This is just disabled in a generic new one. You can use your given profile and just disable this setting. What this does is it stops extruding material just a bit before it reaches the end of the line. This last bit is displayed as a travel move in the layer preview. The purpose is to use the molten filament in the nozzle for the last bit of a line instead of extruding unt
    2 points
  15. Actually, I made it all up. I have no idea if any of that is true or not.🤪 Cura shows the extrusion moves and with coasting enabled there is no extrusion there. The nozzle travels there so that little part is a continuation (vector wise) but there is no E in the line of gcode so the pressure just bleeds off across that distance.
    2 points
  16. Unfortunately, there is no way to do that with a cutting mesh. The cutting mesh cuts the model into multiple parts, and they will all have their own walls.
    2 points
  17. Hi @Smithy and @Josh_gpi, For the lab, I bought several extra glass beds. For more finicky prints we use the Ultimaker adhesion sheets. Spares are great to have. Yes, we attached the magnetic sheet on glass and that works great with active leveling. You can also, if you feel it is too close, use the z offset plugin and add some Z + if you feel the active leveling is too close. I know we've done all sorts of stuff on them but I can't recall if we have done PC on it. On their website they offer some guidance... PEX Build Surface
    2 points
  18. Schön wäre es, vor allem günstiger wenn man sie sich selbst züchten könnte 🙂
    2 points
  19. Bei deiner Druckerfarm macht ein Lüfter mehr oder weniger auch keinen Unterschied mehr 🙂
    2 points
  20. I passed on this one because there isn't any real information. A project file would be good. Knowing the Operating System and maybe even the video sub-system would be nice. Knowing your printer would be a help as well. Why did you bring up Firewall? Were there previous issues with your installation? Is Octoprint involved? Just providing the Cura.log file might give evidence of the "What" but probably not the "Why" and having to muddle through a 1mb text file is not one of my favorite things.
    2 points
  21. Calm down. People just didn't spot your message. Note that this is the forum of Ultimaker, so most people have experience with Ultimakers, so any help you will get here will be mostly focussed on that. Your first point of contact should always be whomever made your machine; They know most about it and should provide you with support if you need it. That being said; I don't have your model, so i can't see what the problem is.
    2 points
  22. The cause of this is probably that the walls are too thin. You could use print thin walls. Or use Arachne, there I could slice it perfectly, because of the variable line widths. See here: Here you can read more about our Arachne Engine: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/Arachne_engine_beta
    2 points
  23. I got tired of whisps of filament jamming the front fan so I designed this. Used 0.015" stainless steel mesh.
    2 points
  24. Also wie erwähnt, es druckt sich wunderbar ohne viel herumtricksen, hier der Cheat Sheet für Cura und Drucker: https://addnorth.com/knowledge/articles/petg-cura-cheat-sheet Nur den Infill auf max 40mm/s setzen, bei 50mm/s hatte ich ein paar Probleme, aber ich denke das kommt auf die Größe des Objekts an. Z-Hop brauchst eigentlich gar nicht aktivieren und Brim brauchte ich bisher auch nicht. Desweiteren benutze ich noch die Glasplatte mit 3DLAC, nach der Abkühlung gehts easy runter.
    2 points
  25. In Cura 4.9, the Top/Bottom settings moved from the Shell category to a Top/Bottom category. Pro-tip: there's a search field on top of the settings list. You can type the name of a setting there.
    2 points
  26. Oh my god, you just saved my life. Google failed me with results. Thank you for this!!!!
    2 points
  27. The issue was fixed by ahoeben for the 4.10 release, so updating should also do the trick.
    1 point
  28. Greetings Im new to this. Can anyone advise, is it OK to leave additional components outside of the build area or are there downsides to this? My reasoning is build the first item, then move it out of the way then move and build the second item? Thanks vm. Al.
    1 point
  29. Hi @akayar Your model has a double wall, thou super tiny. As @gr5 said, in this case Cura's newest version "Arachne Engine Beta" (latest version) is the slicer for this problem. Cause there is two walls, the slicer try the closest path and this is why the surface is uneven esp. at the top because the wall distance increase at this place. With Cura Arachne Beta, you'll have much better control of the layer width. Using the default setting for my printer (UM2E+) and used fine profile (0.1 mm line height) and changed "Line width" to 0.5 mm. Checked t
    1 point
  30. The setting Remove Mesh Intersection prevents meshes on multiple extruders from extruding in the same area. If you disable that, you can achieve toolpaths that cover the same area. Getting it to produce exactly the same paths could be tricky though. Need to make sure it has exactly the same settings everywhere, at the very least. With a post-processing script this is pretty doable. That would be the preferred solution in the end at least, but requires programming skills. If you really want to get into the code where this collision prevention is implemented, it'll be her
    1 point
  31. Yes when it is really so cold then this is the better choice. I guess just covering the printer could work, but then you get maybe other problems when the difference between "outside" and "inside" the printer too high.
    1 point
  32. @friedl_basson Thanks a lot, really appreciate it. 🙂 Will give it a try.....
    1 point
  33. Hi @ZachariahS, First, -what you observed -and corrected by turning off "combing" (before slicing) is possible.. I'm just focusing, -what is going on here. Lets look what kind of improvement Cura does when using "combing" vs., turning it off. The wording below, is just in the first part of the "official description" of the combing mode under "Travel Setting" in Cura.: Combing will reduce the chance of defects on outer surfaces of the print by recalculating all nozzle travel moves to stay within the perimeter of the print. This results in greater travel
    1 point
  34. lol! No I meant let it try to boot for at least 10 minutes. when you upgrade sometimes the upgrade procedure reads all your matieral profiles and translates them (or something) to the latest format for the latest firmware. That step can take 5 or 10 minutes for some reason. But seriously - severaly people have had problems with upgrades but when they power cycle the printer 2 or 3 more times suddenly it is working fine. I have no idea why.
    1 point
  35. Hi, i wonder if there's any way to explain to cura that one face of a cutting mesh should be "continuous" or it should not introduce a boundary in the model Ex: (the grey cube is a cutting mesh where i increased the number of walls)
    1 point
  36. Hi there. Just come to think about this issue. You may check this tread, here you'll find some interesting tip. Check the insulating on the right side (under cartridge 2), -the insulating over the right hand side"locking tab" for the captive sensor plate. If this happen during leveling or when printing with nozzle 2, this could be the error. There is two locking tabs holding the captive sensor plate in position the L/H side tab do not need insulation. These two metal tabs is not grounded. However, on the R/H side the ground power cable (for the cartridge heating
    1 point
  37. Regarding the distance between the plate and the glass, I found a picture from an older post I did in the past: It doesn't matter if you are off a little bit, but to get a feeling what is a working distance.
    1 point
  38. You can just wait with the UM3 until Ultimaker brings a new firmware to autodetect the spool. As far as I know they are working on it and also on a PETG quality profile for the UM3. In the meantime you can use the CPE profile and load it manually. (Generic CPE)
    1 point
  39. Okay, der Sensor hat das bisher überlebt, ahbe schonmal Nozzle mit Block getauscht. Die funzt noch. "Druckerfarm" hahhahhaha Solange da keine aus dem Bodensprießen ist ja alles gut^^
    1 point
  40. What you are seeing is the same model that in the first picture has not been 'smoothed'. The second image shows the same geometry, but with smoothing applied. That is why the hard angles look 'rounded'. Smoothing is just an algorithm that causes the geometry to look good without the oddball geometry being noticeable. If the walls had a different smoothing on the bottom as from the walls, you would see sharp corners on the meeting of the walls and bottom 'planes'. They are not true planes. Just a collection of triangles. If one was to take it to the next layer, smoothing
    1 point
  41. It's under Support | Enable Support Interface. What you have there is the Roof interface enabled. It looks to be 1mm thick and is likely set to Grid. I usually allow a space of 1 layer between the top of the interface and the first real layer above so they don't bond together so well. That setting is Support Z Distance. Another important one is the density of the interface. I run that from 25% to 60% dependent on the model. If the interface is too dense there will be millions of retractions. If it is too sparse for the model the first real layer can sag between the lines of the int
    1 point
  42. The "USB printing" plugin is not maintained as no Ultimaker Printers currently use it. I find it surprising that the DaVinci printer is so advanced that it can notice when a print goes bad, run time backwards, and suck the spaghetti back up the nozzle (yuck!) and return it to the roll of filament. Now although Leonardo DaVinci was a very bright fella, it was actually H.G. Wells who invented the Time Machine. It wasn't until decades later that a certain Mr. Peabody was able to perfect it with the development of his "Way Back" machine (op. cit. Rocky & Bullwinkle).
    1 point
  43. Oui j'avais abordé le problème sur la page facebook "Ultimaker forum francophone" ou je suis plus actif, ici je lit plus que j'écrit mais je vais exposer mon problème dans un nouveau topic prochainement 🙂
    1 point
  44. Merci à tous pour vos réponses, je suis assez d'accord avec la majorité de ce qui a été dit. C'est vrai qu'au début de ma fréquentation du forum l'ambiance était plutôt sympa, on avait un peu l'impression de se retrouver autour d'un verre pour discuter d'impression 3d maintenant la plupart des gens viennent en effet avec des problèmes dont la solution est trouvable facilement et sans vraiment réfléchir ou s'investir plus loin. Enfin content de voir que les anciens sont toujours la ^^
    1 point
  45. A coworker asked if things for his H0-scale trains can be 3D-printed. I made some demo parts for him. Came out better than I expected, the bridge is printed with a new brand that I never used before, so not that nice, but the other ones turned out good. (Why is this upside down 🤔, on my computer it’s right)
    1 point
  46. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544757
    1 point
  47. totally agree, that 0 fan on the extruder fixed my problem too. Thanks
    1 point
  48. WORKING TEMPORARY FIX, building off of @Pseudothink 1. Click marketplace (top right of cura, next to sign in) 2. Install Printer Settings 3. Restart Cura 4. Hit Settings on the toolbar 5. Hit Configure settings visibility 6. Search for zoom 7. Enable Z Hop Speed and Maximum Z Speed Travel 8. Under the Speed settings, set Maximum Z Speed Travel to 10 and under Printer Settings set Z Hop Speed to 5
    1 point
  49. Lol, "Meshmixer" and "intuitive" are terms that i would not use in the same sentence...🙂 In Meshmixer: - "Edit" -> "Separate Shells" (the object browser shows up with a list of separate shells) - select a single part - "Export" as *.stl Or in a recent version of Cura: - go to the Marketplace and install the "Mesh Tools" plugin from @ahoeben - this gives you a new menu entry: "Extensions" -> "Mesh Tools" -> "Split model into parts"
    1 point
  50. Quick post to describe a problem I had and the solution I found, hoping it can help somebody else. Following a reinstall of my Linux (from Mint to Manjaro) and the launching of Cura, I encountered some issues with the backup of my profiles (at this point I probably messed up with the files). However, after deleting all config/personnal files from the /home and reimporting clean .curaprofile files, my prints were inconsistent, weak, porous, almost flexible and transparent, and sometimes broke when I tried to unstick them from the heated bed: left bad print, right correct print from
    1 point
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