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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/25/2021 in Posts

  1. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    2 points
  2. Thanks. 😉 It's my own draft from scratch, but loosely based on any of several generic buildings of this type. Now, does anyone care to guess which specific building this one pictured below was based on? 😉 (Hint: Look at the time.) 😉
    1 point
  3. A part like this needs Z-hops because when the 55mm hole starts to come together its large radius creates feathered edges that want to curl up as they cool. I've printed this part a couple of times and I compromised at .5 for the hop height. That's too much for the bottom and not quite enough for the top. I added a utility to my printing app (modestly called Greg's Toolbox) and I can adjust the Z-hop height in a file. So in the case of this particular part I slice the file with Z-hops at 1.0 and then have the utility open the G-code file and adjust the Z-hop height for layers 0 to 430
    1 point
  4. Hi @curasurf try changing the support X/Y distance. Here my support X/Y distance are 0.2 mm instead of 0.8 mm. And the minimum support X/Y distance is 0.1mm I also changed the support angle to 30 degrees. CCR10SPRO_ttt.3mf Please let me know if this works for you!
    1 point
  5. Whoops. That was a typo on my end! But yeah we could setup a discord server if there is interest for it.
    1 point
  6. If combing is enabled there only 2 z-hops for this cylinder. One at the start and 1 at the end of the skirt. In this 3mf I disabled combing. When you slice it there should be Z-hops of 10mm (easier to find in the gcode). Whether moving up or moving down, the Z-hops occur on their own line Ex.: "G1 F2400 Z12.4". cylinder.3mf
    1 point
  7. Someone please help.... I am desperate ... I have this error message: An unspecified error has occurred in the motion controller. Restored to default settings. This message appears just before its started to print. So after the bed levelling and pre warmup. What I have done so far, not in order and maybe I missed a few things: restored to default settings reset to factory settings calibrated lift switch downgraded firm where from 5.8.2 to 5.8.1 upgraded to 6.1.0 contacted ultimate distributor. was told to clean it. cleaned it again. still same proble
    1 point
  8. Yes, it was released 2 days after the release of 6.1.0
    1 point
  9. Yes I'm familiar with the "dragging across lower line and snapping". I've seen it many times. Cura tends to make infill at like 2X printing speed so I'd try even slower - 20% - just to see what happens. Also you want the fan as low as possible but still turning. Check your infill line width! I didn't think of that - but cura can do some really stupid things like setting that to a different value than the rest of the print. Make sure it is the same as your normal line width. Or wider. It could just be a bad brand of filament? Different types of p
    1 point
  10. I've seen this before with PLA. It usually happens when I print too fast. It can sometimes be improved by over extruding but mostly it's fixed by slowing down. Try printing the infill at 1/2 or even 1/4 speed you are printing now and see if that helps. I haven't had this problem with PETG but maybe I print too slow to see this.
    1 point
  11. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
    1 point
  12. I have a nice system for these situations. It is powered by two of the printer stepper motors so they must function. It requires a table the same height as the window sill, and two pulleys (one to open the window and the other to drag the printer over the sill). The system was designed with PencilCAD so no translation software is necessary (though you will appreciate that Email won't work). There is one constraint regarding printer defenestration: A first floor window above a flower garden doesn't work well. A 10th floor window above a concrete parking lot is very satisfying (
    1 point
  13. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  14. If you meant "compatible material diameter", this didn't have any effect. But I solved this by adding command M92 to the start of my gcode. (Reseting printer will return extrusion setting back to normal.) Info for other zmorph VX paste extruder users through Cura: Right now I'm using code M92 E11 in the start of gcode with a flow setting of 45%. This is with original 100ml syringe and 2mm nozzle. Thank you for answers!
    1 point
  15. Hi all! I'm using a paste extruder with a 2mm nozzle. It doesn't have gearing so I'm needing about 2,5% of flow to get proper extrusion. Cura however counts under 5% flow as an error. I can make the first layer right by using Initial layer flow, but I'd be interested in making 3D prints with paste. Stuff I've tried: -Increasing compatible material diameter from machine settings. (Didn't do anything) -Setting "initial bottom layers" to 100 so every layer would be initial. (Turns out that there are multiple settings for "initial layers" that are independent, this setting was for she
    1 point
  16. Disabling "Remove Empty First Layers" allowed to slice in mid-air.
    1 point
  17. Last week I designed a little test model to demonstrate the limitations of an FDM-printer to people who have no experience with it, but who want something designed and 3D-printed. Purpose was to show big overhangs and tiny extensions that get not enough cooling (the little cones at the top). I also used it to experiment with temperature and speed settings, for best results. But the model might also be usefull for this new bridging function. So, feel free to experiment with it. Size is fairly small: ca. 40mm x 30mm x 30mm, about 1.5h printing time at 50mm/s. The item at
    1 point
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