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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/13/2021 in all areas

  1. We want to learn about your Cura workflows! The Cura team is continuously working to improve the products and make your 3d printing workflow as smooth as possible. As part of this continual quest to improve the product, we would like to interview some users on their experience with the software and the rest of the Ultimaker platform. We are particularly looking for people who have expertise or something to say on these 3 topics: 1) Network connected printers 2) Advanced workflows going from CAD to Cura (Custom support, mesh modifiers, multi material assemblies )
    3 points
  2. Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers -> Machine Settings -> Origin at Center
    2 points
  3. If you only installed one of them, I'd go ahead and add the second one as well. They are meant to be paired together, so if only one is installed, you could potentially run into a number of issues, ranging from things like Er65s to motion controller errors. Other common causes are things such as: * Front fan being impacted by debris https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011635039 * Partially clogged core https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011620800 * Debris in the feeder https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652139-Cl
    2 points
  4. Du wirst nichts finden, da dies eine Funktion der Druckerfirmware ist.
    2 points
  5. Yes, this is a good point. For designing parts, a lot of the rules for injection moulding apply here too, although not all. You can find online manuals on how to design plastic parts for injection moulding, from big companies like BASF, Bayer, DuPont, etc... How to design plastic threads is also explained in some of them. But this is more suitable for bigger sizes anyway, like plastic bottle lids. The company protolabs also has good manuals on designing for 3D-printing, I think. With a standard nozzle of 0.4mm, you can not print lines and corners narrower th
    2 points
  6. When I am not printing, I store all my materials in a closed plastic box with a big bag of dessicant. Use one with blue/pink indicator, so you can see when it needs drying (=by putting it in an oven at low temp). Nylon is known to get too moist in only a couple of hours. It should be dried prior to printing, and then be printed from a dry-box. Idem for PVA. (I don't have a material station, so I don't know if that incorporates a dry-box functionality?) For PLA and PET: in real life I haven't seen too much degradation when sitting in the open, although theoretically they
    2 points
  7. I resemble that remark! 😛 OK, I was able to fix it. I can give you some general idea of what I found, but not how to apply it to Blender. There were some flipped faces and multiple edges. There was an abutment of the head itself and the base. This would not join properly in a boolean operation. There were also issues with the 'Screw thread part. I was not sure if you wanted the original thread height on the inside so I went with the firts. Flipped faces are a no-no when doing boolean operations. All the objects and their individual faces have to be facing ei
    1 point
  8. Wenn ich das noch richtig Weiß ist der Fan Shroud etwas breiter wie das blech. Daher steht da auch was in der Beschreibung mit einen Abstandshalter glaube ich. Da würde ich dann mal schauen wie es nun beim Connect ist Ich würde glaub dieses nehmen: UM2_HotEnd_-_Labern_-_Dual_Fan_Shroud_V3 Gruß
    1 point
  9. That is perhaps a misunderstanding. An up-to-date Cura is required to use PETG. PETG support has been available since Cura 4.8, currently 4.9.1. If you select PETG in a current Cura, its profile is transmitted to the printer with the print job. The printer firmware itself supports everything and nothing, so to speak. Many greetings
    1 point
  10. Hi all, Today we release Ultimaker Cura 4.10 beta. The spotlight for Ultimaker Cura 4.10 beta is on Ultimaker Professional and Ultimaker Excellence subscribers. You can now import CAD files directly into Ultimaker Cura. This provides users with an even more effective workflow by boosting productivity and increasing first time right results. Enable this feature by downloading Ultimaker Cura 4.10 beta and the Native CAD import plugin from the Ultimaker Marketplace. Read more The following improvements and bug fixes are also available in Ultimaker Cura 4.10 beta:
    1 point
  11. So coincidentally I just learned something this week about these feeders. And I already forgot what I learned except you really really need to contact your reseller. There's some complexity with the 2 different feeder wheels and the 4 different feeder circuit boards that can cause errors if you don't do it "properly". And if your reseller isn't familiar with this issue they need to contact Ultimaker about it. There is some bulletin or something I think that explains in great detail what works and what doesn't work and how to fix it and so on.
    1 point
  12. If the openGL that your computer supports is too low (either due to outdated drivers or outdated GPU), the third button is not shown. So basicly; ensure that you have the latest drivers and if that doesn't work; Update your hardware.
    1 point
  13. This problem is rare on the S5 but common on 3d printers in general and has about 30 (very different) possible causes. So the first thing is to figure out if the problem is at the feeder or the hot end. I'm guessing the hot end (the core). So try a different core. Your printer should have come with two AA 0.4 and one BB 0.4 cores so swap the AA 0.4 cores. Alternatively move the core to the right and slot so that you are using the right hand feeder and if it suddenly works great than the problem is with the left hand feeder. I'm guessing there is a clog or partial cl
    1 point
  14. Hi @Zeirus I don't have a configuration for you. But you can add custom printers in Cura. Here can you find how: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012370160-How-to-add-a-custom-printer-to-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  15. Also ich würde so ein ding vermeiden, der erzeugt ja mit den Überschuss an Strom wärme. Steht auch in der Beschreibung wenn über 2,5A oder 10W soll man noch Kühlkörper installieren. Meine Wakü läuft auch über ein externes 12V Netzteil (ein kleines Bastlernetzteil) ob das jetzt wegen einen Lüfter auch nötig ist glaube ich nicht. Und das ich nicht vergesse die Wakü einzuschalten habe ich wie schon im deinen anderen Thread erwähnt eine Relaisplatine zwischen gehängt und den Eingang an den 5V des Hotendkühler Ausgang gehangen. Somit wenn über 45C schaltet das
    1 point
  16. This article might be helpful https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  17. Würde noch weiter ausholen. Das sind die Firmwarefunktionen des Bundles. Normalerweise entlädt er an der Stelle das Material aus dem Druckkopf. So ca. 5cm. Da er ohne Materialstation diesen Code überspringt, bleibt am Ende trotzdem das Warten auf die Abkühlung. Wobei das Sachen sind die normalerweise nicht stören. Weil man, so lange das System noch heiß ist, weder das Bauteil von der Platte reißt noch die Platte wechselt. Macht beides in der Regel keinen Sinn. (Außer bei TPU vielleicht) Das manuelle Abbrechen würde ich nicht machen. Sinnvoll ist eher, die Türen zu öffnen
    1 point
  18. No unfortunately, the development was stopped completely because no consistent results could be achieved.
    1 point
  19. The aluminum plate was canceled as you can see in the first post of this thread. Therefore you can also not buy it anywhere.
    1 point
  20. Simple déduction mon chère Watson ! Tu utilises du PLA gorgée d'humidité mais tu ne le sais pas, PLA qui passe mal dans la buse... Du coup, quel est le premier réflex : tu (bon pas toi mais tu quand même) resserres le feeder. Comme ton filament n'a plus les mêmes propriétés mécaniques et tu ajoutes un autre problème au premier. Et c'est sans compter sur le phénomène bisannuel habituel : nos environnements vont monter en température et tout va chauffer plus sans pour autant que le taux d'humidité baisse.... ...on va encore avoir droit a notre avalanche de : "ouin, je comprends pas
    1 point
  21. Also das Modul macht dem Anschluß nichts, das braucht nicht viel Strom, regelt nur die Spannung runter. Aber der Lüfter sollte nicht mehr benötigen als der Anschluss her gibt. Wieviel der liefern kann weiß ich nicht, aber da wäre ich vorsichtig. Es gab auch schon User, die haben einen Raspberry irgendwo auf 5V gehängt und sich dann das Board damit geschossen. Ich würde es persönlich nicht ans Board hängen, weil du hast damit ja auch absolut keinen Vorteil, der Lüfter würde sowieso immer laufen. D.h. du kannst dir die Spannung gleich direkt von der Buchse holen wo das Netzteil anges
    1 point
  22. It's very common for tempered glass to be higher in the center. It has to do with how tempered glass is made. Because of the way things are leveled this usually means you get low spots in the rear two corners. 1) the amount of force needed to bend the glass flat is tiny. So you could probably put some sticky tape in the middle under the glass to pull it down - something that can handle 110C. Then put shims around the outer edge particularly in the rear two corners. Shims could be washers for example. Or sheets of paper. Or you could bend the rear two corners of th
    1 point
  23. tout en bas dans "expérimental" "utiliser des couches adaptatives" si tu mets 0.1 en "variation maximal" et que tu es réglé en couches de 0.2, tu auras une variation entre 0.1 et 0.3 suivant la forme de l'impression. cela diminue l'effet de marche d'escalier. et pour visualiser dans "aperçu" tu sélectionnes en type de ligne "épaisseur de couche"
    1 point
  24. Bei den Bauteil Lüfter bin ich damals auf SEPA MFB30G12 umgestiegen, das Problem war damals das nicht jeder gegangen ist da diese ja Regelbar sein müssen. Bei den kleinen Hotendlüften kannst du einen beliebigen nehmen z,B, Sunon da gibt es auch einen höheren der mehr Luftdruchsatz hat. Das alte Thread ist gerade auch wieder unter den Top5 Also Welche mit Radial Lüfter (wie beim UM3) bringen schon mehr Leistung, aber ob diese dann zielgerichtet gelenkt ist ist die nächste Frage. Meine Versuche mit Radial Lüfter habe ich irgendwie aufgegeben
    1 point
  25. The most obvious advice is: don't print M3 bolts. You can buy them for very cheap (cheaper than you can print them for if you factor in the cost of the printer, maintenance and your time), and the ones you buy will be much stronger. No, you cannot remove the shadow.
    1 point
  26. It is 20 years ago since I last selected an UPS. A few things I vaguely remember: - Find the continuous power it has to be able to deliver. See the name-plate on your machine. Multiply that value by 2x, to account for variations, little add-ons like a LED spot, and system-degradation. - Find the peak-current it has to deliver. Some devices may draw a fairly low continuous average power, but with occasional high peaks. Multiply that peak by 2x, just to be safe. - Chose the time the UPS has to hold up these values. - Look up the dimensions and the prices of UPSses. And
    1 point
  27. 🙄jean yanne "le permis de conduire" revisité pour @darkdvd Le néophyte : j'ai un problème d'impression , dit @darkdvd comment vous faites quand vous imprimez du PLA…L'expert : Ah, ça m'étonnerait, alors !Le néophyte : Qu'est ce que vous dites ?L'expert : Je dis ça m'étonnerait…que j'imprime du PLA. J'imprime jamais du PLA, c'est de la merde, et ça casse trop facilement.Le néophyte : Oui, j'entends bien, monsieur, mais c'est une supposition, vous imprimez du PLA et ..L'expert : Non, je touche pas au PLA, je viens de vous dire que j'en mettais jamais du PLA dans mon imprimante? J'aime pas
    1 point
  28. It's in the Experimental section of the settings. The tooltip should read "DO NOT USE".
    1 point
  29. Turn off "Make overhangs printable". It's doing just what it says - instead of an overhang you get part structure.
    1 point
  30. Die Fanshrouds bei Prusa werden mittlerweile statt aus PETG mit ASA gedruckt.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Look at the mesh fixes section. The only thing you might want selected is "union overlapping volumes". The rest should be de-selected. If "remove all holes" was selected it was the problem.
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. I've had to abort several prints today due to a supposed material runout -- not the case, but printer keeps stopping. When I tell it to abort, it seems to work, but ends up in some sort of loop with an X on the screen. After it sits for a while, or I turn off power and return it, it comes back with a print finished message and a yellow check mark. And sits. And sits. And does nothing. No functioning controls, no way to reset the printer. I turn off power again and let it sit five minutes and it comes back and tries to re-print the aborted job without asking. Cura 4.4, firmware 5.5. Ma
    1 point
  35. Hey, thanks for your help, I noticed that the Build Plate Adhesion Type was resetted to skirt and in cause of this it was too large... Thanks!
    1 point
  36. Exemple d'impression en PTEG/FC + Breakaway A gauche : PETG/FC + Breakaway, distance Z 0mm A droite : PETG/FC + support zig-zag avec débordement de 2 mm, densité 40%, Z à 0.2 #yapasphoto
    1 point
  37. Well, he's a know it all, because he worked for ultimaker on Cura. In case that isn't enough, i can confirm that he's right. We never had a fuzzy skin on top. The arguments for that can be found in this ticket: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1419. I don't know who told you that you need to go back to 3.6, but that person is simply wrong.
    1 point
  38. Difference between hell and heaven S5 is my heavenly delight
    1 point
  39. I'm working on a new plugin that adds a simple measuring aid to Cura: In its current incarnation, the tool lets you pick (and drag) two points and shows the distance between these points. A test-version can be downloaded here: MeasureTool Download the file and drop it onto the buildplate in Cura as if you were opening a 3d model. Then restart Cura as instructed. The plugin is now available in the Marketplace.
    1 point
  40. If you have a (network) drive mapped to the letter X:, try mapping it to a different driveletter.
    1 point
  41. The NFC antenna in the tag on Ultimaker materials is quite large. Most tags will not be picked up by the antenna in the spool holder. The tags are not protected, and can be rewritten. So start with an original Ultimaker tag and try to write it
    1 point
  42. I'd like to add NFC tags to some of the common material I buy. Ideally I could set it up to be a profile in cura, buy a couple of cheap NFC tags that i label appropriately, and slap them on spools when I load them so my material station knows whats-what. Is it possible to do this?
    1 point
  43. During a print, I have finish the Ultimaker orange PLA ribbon and I have try to use a general PLA to finish the print, I have take the NFC from original ribbon and I have applied on the Generic ribbon, the printer has finished printing successfully.
    1 point
  44. Every printer is different and has different tolerances. Use a negative value for horizontal expansion, print slower, cooler and you will have success.
    1 point
  45. quick tip: this can be avoided by using an "override" file instead of editing the original:
    1 point
  46. This is the list of current replacement patterns: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html
    1 point
  47. You can prevent this behavior by disabling the USB printing support in Cura. Open the "Marketplace" and go to the "Installed" tab on the right. Scroll down to USB Printing and uncheck the checkmark. Then restart Cura.
    1 point
  48. I think I may have solved it! Is it possible that there was a section of very fine lines before the retraction that causes your issue? I believe that during these very fine lines, filament oozes away DURING printing, causing ever so slight overextrusion in the structures prior to the retraction! So after the next travel move, the nozzle is empty and has to first fill up before the print can continue as normal. Usually, these defects occur in infill and are not visible in the finished print. This is unless there is no infill, either because the print is very thin and consists of only walls, or
    1 point
  49. It's a long video, I know, sorry. But I packed in everything you need to know to be an expert at getting parts to stick to the glass better. In the video I pick up an entire printer by the little UM robot. If you follow any 2 of the suggestions you will have an improvment but if you follow all of them you will never have a part come loose again.
    1 point
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