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  1. I think you're looking for "Merge Models" - this function aligns multiple loaded models in respect to their origin. The way this works is: first load all separate parts, then select all (STRG + A) and "merge" their position (STRG + ALT + G). https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011738340-How-to-merge-and-group-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    3 points
  2. A bit of nuance here; We are not all knowing or infallible. By all means ask questions as to why something is the way it is. If we can't explain why we did (or did not) do something it's a sign that something should be done. These kind of challenges are what improves things. There is value in the remarks of those that are experienced and those that are new, but they tend to be on different "levels" (eg; I don't really look at the features intended for novices and i'm unlikely to notice certain quirks of the interface because i'm too experienced!) Also, Cura does have variable layer height a
    3 points
  3. A few tips (maybe you already know them, maybe not): If you would go the moulding and casting route, be sure to post-process your mould very well: remove all layer lines as much as possible by sanding, coating/painting, or chemical smoothing. Otherwise the cast may be very hard to remove, as each layer line acts as a tiny undercut. Don't ask how I know... :-) I do the smoothing with dichloromethane now. (See my separate post on: chemical smoothing PLA and PET with dichloromethane, should come up in search.) And I make my moulds in silicone from 3D-printed models, and i
    2 points
  4. Hi all, We've release firmware 6.2 for the S-line printers. It's got some neat performance improvements, and as a user you can now choose which firmware release channel you want, latest, which is greatest, or stable, for updates 3-4 times a year. Check out the full release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012055979 Download it in via your favorite method, either on the printer directly or get the .swu update file here. Thanks!
    2 points
  5. Any hat that requires a video to explain it is ridiculous by definition. I've built 12. The fire helmet has 6-AAA batteries, 1-9 volt battery, 2 music speakers, 1 speaker for the bell, 5 circuit boards, 210 LED's, 70 rivets, somewhere around 60 feet of #26 wire, 11 switches, a variety of ostrich plumes for various holidays, and it weighs just under a kilo. I didn't bother getting the blue-tooth to work since I refuse to give up my flip phone.
    2 points
  6. Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate
    2 points
  7. @gr5, it's the Y so 20mm below the build plate mid-point. I'm going to ignore the suitability of "Origin at Center". @onr, Look at the Cura origin icon. The green arm is the Y. The Cura origin is showing "+Y" as being UP in the view. Now look at the "part" origin icon. The part origin green arm is point down. I have no idea why that is, but that is the confusion. You moved the part Y-20 in relation to itself, but the "part" origin (not the part itself) is mirrored about the X in relation to Cura. So in that view, the part is sitting wholly in the +Y even though you have it
    2 points
  8. This is a more close up pictures for sure, -but cannot be sure that there is an open wiring. At this close distance from the heater core, the heat will extend along the wire and sometimes you burn the insulation at some distance from the sleeve. But with this much wear and tear on the fastening tab, it's strange if there is no hole in the wires insulation.. Another thing, if there is no short here, this short/close distance -mean higher capacitance. So could this increased capacitance be the reason for (out of specification sensed) this error? For sure, there
    2 points
  9. Typically each model is brought into Cura by Center-of-Geometry and each model would need the same Center-of-Geometry in order to locate them correctly relative to each other. It is possible to use programs like Blender or 3D Builder to impart location data into the STL or 3mf. I haven't played with that very much. To fool Cura into becoming an assembly modeler I do the following. My build plate is 230 X 230. I create a build plate in the Cad program up to 230 x 230 x 5 with the top at Z=0. My real models are above it and oriented the way I want. The build plate gets merg
    2 points
  10. 1) the bed temperature: does it also show as way too hot on the temperature logging page? 2) the hotend: the most likely cause is the printhead's front fan not spinning correctly anymore this causes the hotends to heat up beyond the heat break and can be caused by very thin strands of filament ending up in the fan. The fact that your hotend melted the plastic at the top of the hotend probably means you have indeed baked you Teflon insert in the hotend (this shouldn't be heated to PLA melting temperatures!!! that damages it for sure). So like @gr5 said you should replace the hotends,
    2 points
  11. (if I am not painfully obvious, this is intended as a joke)
    2 points
  12. Thanks for deleting your comment. Yes, from my point of view, even if the comments are technically well-founded, I feal it disrespectful to the work and service FREELY provided by Ultimaker and the development teams working on the product. Cura takes longer than others to get started ... Yes and ? in my case it's 15s while all the others takes 2 or 3s. It's true but what does 12s change in my life ? And when a print takes 2 days to finish: 2 days =172800s = 11520 Cura start There is no variable layer height yes, but PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, Ideamaker, IceSL, Craf
    2 points
  13. What about the official "print core cleaning maintenance instructions": https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011652559-Print-core-cleaning-maintenance-schedule While you're at it - take a look at all other maintenance tasks too... 🙂 https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013135039-Maintenance-schedule-of-the-Ultimaker-S5
    2 points
  14. Hello, I would prefer to avoid the complications of trying to ship something this size overseas. Even though the printer is relatively small, the packaging and weight will probably make it cost prohibitive to ship to Europe. If I am unable to sell locally within the next few weeks I will contact you.
    1 point
  15. Hi Jeff, I've been looking into the wiring diagram for this circuit and since this heater element is driven by a NMOS p-ch transistor, both of this wires will be positive when no power is feed to the heat element. When the transistor is switched to on (for heating), the defined negative pin goes to ground. This will continue in a cycle pattern according to heat demand. I'll think ultimaker is using the "bang - bang" mode with a fixed frequency and timed on/off cycle (for reducing EMF noise). Anyway, it looks like your "capacitive electronic chip" is most likely fri
    1 point
  16. @Roli4711 I've reached out to you for more detailed information
    1 point
  17. Thank you guys for the help, I did end up installing win 10 pro 64bit on that laptop, it has a 64bit system. But as Torgier mentioned it uses a lot of its "resources" so I uninstalled it due to failure at startup. I bought a better laptop and upgraded the crap out of it and today is the day I see what Ive created and test it with cura
    1 point
  18. I would have some doubts about carbon-filled materials. The leads of pencils are carbon-filled too, and are *highly conductive*: short-circuit a battery with a pencil lead, and you get a really nice welding arc... Black anti-static mats get their properties from the carbon too. Make sure you measure conductivity on a small test print, and also the breakdown voltage. So the glass-filled looks like a better idea to me. Maybe PET should also do, at least for normal house-hold voltages? But I have no clue about its high-voltage properties. Also, have
    1 point
  19. If I had to do that, I would consider printing a mould, and then cast some sort of rubber (PU? - which exists in various hardnesses) into it. Or print a real model, print a shell, pour silicone in-between model and shell, and thus make a silicone mould. And then pour rubber into that silicone, to prevent it from sticking. Then you have the advantages of both 3D-printing and casting.
    1 point
  20. I occasionally print PET. In the beginning I tried printing on bare glass, which gave mixed results. Then I tried dilluted wood glue, which gave *very good* bonding. Way too good, because at one time, it chipped the glass. This already happened while cooling down, I heard it crack violently. When I removed the print, it came off without any force, but with the glass chip stuck to the print. Now I use my salt method: apply a few drops of salt water to the glass bed, and wipe that with a paper tissue until it dries into a very thin mist of salt. For PLA, and as long as the glass is h
    1 point
  21. You can also enable the backup plugin. It's shipped with Cura by default.
    1 point
  22. Hi @jeffroe, Good catch. It looks like it is burned, -should not be as the place it is touching is "cold".. If you look more closely, could there be a hole in the insulation? This is the heater, and if this is the +24 VDC this can make some heat. So if 24 VDC enter this "ground" that's alternating at a frequency, the capacitive sensor might be destroyed. This one is actually installed inside the print head, the mall PCB where the fan and the capacitive sensor connectors are installed. Again check this little brown spot and if you see the wires in there
    1 point
  23. Well i was finally able to watch it as it moved to the one in the back and it looks like its a height issue and I'm going to need to stagger them to print properly the one of the axis was hitting the unit when it moved to the back print. That is also why the difference was always in the same line. and the exact way on each unit. Thanks for the help.
    1 point
  24. Hi @JohnInOttawa, As I've been a teacher in IR theory and how to use those cameras that's installed/used in mission helicopters ( rotary wing) and mission aircraft (fixed wing), -allow me to answer this one. The infrared specter consist of three band: Lo band - Medium band and High end band. For 3D printing we are in Lo and Medium infrared spectrum band. The colors is a key factor when it comes to heat radiation in our 3D printing "temperature area". Black is the color that radiate and attract heat best! Withe is the poorest heat radiator in both, radiati
    1 point
  25. even though i had new Firmware i did update it with same 6.1.1 Firmware and it works. All solved
    1 point
  26. Hi @elkteeth could you provide more information. A screenshot? Or your log file? Your log file can be found here: C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows)
    1 point
  27. Usually the settings (that are stored on the printer) are not touched during a "normal" firmware update. But the settings on the UM2+ are stored in different locations than on the older UM2. That's why there's an implicit factory reset every time you swap between UM2+ and UM2 (non-plus) firmware. It doesn't matter how you compile it. As soon as you stay in the same "family" (either plus or non-plus) you can update the firmware without loosing any (potentially custom) settings. That's all.
    1 point
  28. Awesome! 👍 That has been all of us at our starting points. 🙂 I used to post under the nom de plume "The clumsy noob" complete with pics of burned fingers and other things. And, when I had to sign things, I would use my plume de nom. 😜 These days I am more of "The forgetful dood." You will be surprised how fast you can get through this in the future. It is a bit of an upward slope at first, but it all starts to come together. Not really.....you can try using bitmap (2 bit black and white) as well as 256 for this if you want to cut down on the anti aliasin
    1 point
  29. Für die meisten vordefinierten Druckprofile sind die Material-Einstellungen nur der Basiswert. Je nach Layerhöhe und Druckgeschwindigkeit wird das vom Profil noch angepasst. Tatsächlich sind es noch sehr viel mehr "Einstellungs-Schichten", die am Ende zu den Werten führen, die in deinem 2. Bild zu sehen sind. Es wird also immer das "Endergebnis" zum Generieren der gcode-Datei benutzt. Du wirst sehen, wie sich Werte ändern, wenn Du statt "normal" ein anderes Profil auswählst. Wenn dich die Details interessieren: Im Cura-Wiki ist ein Beispiel, wie die Schichten aufei
    1 point
  30. You can send me money so it's no longer fee (and thus cheaper for you ;)) Free is more expensive is a bit of a silly statement. S3D can't do these things either and does cost money. I'm pretty sure that Cura is getting more investments in terms of development time than S3D is getting. But just because you're not the one paying, it doesn't mean that no-one is paying.
    1 point
  31. "...find a real backplot program to step thru lines of G Code.." Excuse me, you do happen to be running Windows? I've been looking for a guineau pig Test Pilot for this. It's on the recovery page as "Gcode Debugger". It will step through starting at the line you choose. You can air print (ignore the Z) and you can also ignore the extrusions if you want. Here is a screen shot. It's an unsigned app and you may have to fool your anti-virus to allow the setup file to run. There are instructions and a readme file. Here is the download link. Let me know what you
    1 point
  32. The reason should be very simple: The print object or parts of it have lost their adhesion to the heating bed and have been carried away. This causes the nozzle to stick to the printing part, but the stepper continues to convey material because it does not notice anything. The material can no longer come down through the nozzle, but the pressure increases continuously. It burns its way up along the hot nozzle - and quickly pours in your printhead. Digibike
    1 point
  33. 👍 Thanks for your feedback. Regards Torgeir
    1 point
  34. Here you go: Here's a project to see how I did it: UM2_z-STL.3mf
    1 point
  35. Hi @Desprinzla, I'll suggest you go to this site, where you'll find a guide of how to download a log file(s) to the USB device. Here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015583819-Save-log-files-to-USB In this page, you'll also find a mail button (submit a request) for addressing your problem. Thanks Torgeir
    1 point
  36. Hi folks, I've not a S5, but do have a S3. Why not try to print whithout using the material station, just in order to see where the problem is. The material station may signal, -"I cannot feed" for some reason. I'll assume this will give an indication where the failure is. Thanks Torgeir
    1 point
  37. change support overhang angle =55
    1 point
  38. Hallo miteinander, Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen wie die Abstandshülsen Geräusche machen sollen, die Abstandshülsen die Zwischen den Pulley sind drehen sich ja beide gleich, und die die zwischen Pulley und Kugellager sind drehen ja auch, außer die stehen zu weit oben an den Kugellager an den ja nur der kleinere ring dreht sich. Da könnte tatsächlich helfen wenn man dort den druck raus nimmt. Also den Geräusch von deinen Video bin ich mir eigentlich zu 75% Sicher das es ein Riemen ist der wo an einer Pulley Wand schabt Das muss auch nicht immer sein da der Riem
    1 point
  39. The model was imported as a group. Select the object, right-click it and ungroup it. Alternatively, export your model as an STL instead of as a 3MF file, and this "grouping" should not happen in the first place.
    1 point
  40. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    1 point
  41. Yes, it was released 2 days after the release of 6.1.0
    1 point
  42. Hello Everybody! My brother in law has made a Crealty ender printer 6 profile for Mac and Windows. We have done some test prints and it looks promising. Please give us comments if you encounter any problems. otherwise have fun printing whit this profile!! Crealty_ender_6_printer profile cura_resources.zip
    1 point
  43. I am very much pro recycling and pro clean oceans. So it is good that this plastic garbage is collected. But that garbage collected from the oceans is a mix of ABS, PET, PP, HDPE, LDPE, PC, PS, PLA and other stuff. And it is partially broken down by sunlight, eaten by bacteria, contaminated with salt, bacteria, algae, sand, paint, paper labels,etc... There is no way you can make high-quality products from that in an economical way. To sort-out and purify this garbage, you would need to burn maybe 10x more oil than it takes to make new plastic from that oil. So I think t
    1 point
  44. It could be that your wifi chip on that specific machine has issues? We literally have hundreds of S5's connected with wifi. Wifi is not as stable as ethernet of course, but it should work in most cases. What version of firmware are you using btw?
    1 point
  45. And now @SandervG has promoted me to the century club. WooHoo!!! I'll be awaiting my virtual bonus on that one baby.
    1 point
  46. Thank you, I will. Since I am now rolling in virtual cash, I will buy the next virtual round.
    1 point
  47. Check if you have Coasting enabled in Cura - if so turn it off.
    1 point
  48. Of course, plugins are in the Marketplace! And I looked under "Settings", "Preferences" and "Extensions". Silly me... I had that plugin deactivated in the old 2.x version I had installed. After updating to the current version it was back. And if I deactivate it from within the program I first have to let it mess up my fan controller. So killing the plugin directory is "better" because it prevents cura from messing with my fan controller in the first place.
    1 point
  49. Print two of this ones https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-axis-alignment-tool And also check http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#misaligned-axes And if you need to realign the axes, check this video for UMO+ (it's the same for um2)
    1 point
  50. Thank you! I never would have thought that USB was just a plugin. I still think it's weird that the USB autodetection affects unrelated devices. On the other hand there are probably not many people out there with something like that fan controller still in active service.
    1 point
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