Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/27/2021 in Posts

  1. Working on anatomical models.. experimenting with smoothable filament. Guess what it is. UM S5, 0.15mm layers. White Polysmooth. Break-away support. Postprocessing: - some light sanding. 420grit. (across-layers) - first smoothing: DIY Alcohol-smoothed (25mins). Paintbucket with soaked towels. 2 days of outgassing. - some minor detail correction with knive and sanding papers. - second smoothing: Sprayed some more alcohol on problem spots. conclusion: more sanding = better too much alco-smoothing at one time = detail loss The al
    2 points
  2. Do you have Chitubox installed on the same computer? If so, read this: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/4402996140946-Ultimaker-Cura-crashes-when-opening-any-file
    2 points
  3. C'est ici qu'on a le droit de se moquer des imprimantes chinoises à auto-combustion intégrée ?
    2 points
  4. As already said, I don't know why there is no developer mode with SSH connection, but SSH was enabled in the very first pre-release firmware, so I guess it is just deactivated. Just an idea if someone wants to tinker and try it on their own risk. The built in Onion board has a serial connector and they offer an "expansion dock" with a USB to serial. So if you buy such an expansion board you should be able to connect to the console of the Onion. Then you could just do what you want or enable the SSH daemon. Not sure if it really works, but I read the docs of the Onion
    2 points
  5. also, my print quality improved by orders of magnitude.. i get supersmooth prints now.. i had quite brutal ringing on my prints.. all fixed by the latest firmware update. Nice! i thought my settings or the settup was the problem.
    1 point
  6. The build plate you see in Cura has X=0, Y=0 in the left front corner. +X goes to the right and +Y goes to the back. The actual printer build plate will also have X=0 and Y=0 at the left front corner. Cura and the printer have to match. Auto-Home the printer. The nozzle is at 0,0. Now stand by the machine to look at it - make the nozzle position the left front corner. In Cura, go to Settings | Printer | Manage Printers | Machine Settings. Set the X(width) and Y(depth) to match your printer. If you make a change in those numbers then the virtual plate in Cura will change si
    1 point
  7. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
    1 point
  8. Use the visibility dropdown that is next to the Settings Search box and set visibility to "All" In the Travel section is Max Comb Distance with No Retract. When set to 0 there is no retraction on combing moves. Setting it to 10 should work.
    1 point
  9. also das es am Anfang denn strich zieht ist ja im Prinzip egal, er stellt halt davor schon Material zur Verfügung ich würde sagen zu der Stützstruktur gerade bei der großen Fläche da ist der Obere Abstand zu Groß gerade bei solchen Flächen wirds schwierig dann aber ich würde auch Breakaway nutzen. Datei selber gezeichnet oder was fertiges?
    1 point
  10. Da du ein S5 hast würde ich dir Breakaway als Supportmaterial für die zweite Düse Empfehlen. Dann mit Stützdach arbeiten und du bekommst glatte Übergänge hin. Bei schwer zugänglichen Stellen dann das Wasserlösliche PVA. Das ist aber oft zickig wenn es nicht ganz trocken ist. Edit: wenn ich mit PLA drucke, drucke ich in der Regel nur das Stützdach aus Breakaway. Das geht schneller und schont etwas den Geldbeutel
    1 point
  11. You need to go back to square one with a set of vanilla slice settings and then change one at a time. There are some conflicts in your settings and I'm not sure which one is causing the problem. I think what you are trying to do is get rid of the Z seam for your mold? I played around a bit and came up with the attached file. The bottom of the mold has a hole that I wasn't able to get rid of. This is layer 6 and is the first layer of the mold. SupportParas.3mf
    1 point
  12. Bingo!! That's one of the bad definition files. The default Z Hop speed is 10 and then your mini definition file changes the max Z speed to 1.5 but leaves the Z Hop speed at 10 so it's a show stopper. Next to the Setting Search box is a dropdown box for setting visibility. Set it to "All". Scroll down to the Speed section and then "Z Hop Speed" and you will see that it is red and has 10.0 in it. Set it to 1.5 and you should be good.
    1 point
  13. Issue found, the material had come off the spool tied a knot and then was still moving in the tube until the point the material had worn thin.
    1 point
  14. Thank you for your help. You mentioned some terminology that is new to me, but I googled them which led me to the "Remesh" modifier in blender. After fooling around with it I got it to work. It fixed everything that was broken with my design. I'll keep looking around this forum and pick up some more new terminology. I'll install the mesh tools. Thanks for helping the noob. I'll certainly be back for help.
    1 point
  15. If you used sketchup then here's a tutorial to fix your model: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ You can try one of these 3 repair services if this isn't your model. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model n
    1 point
  16. Are you willing to pay? I know that sometimes @ahoeben will do contract work for plugins. This sounds like a somewhat big job to me but I don't know. Maybe 20 hours? Maybe a ton more. He only does open source projects I believe so if you paid for this it would benefit everyone who wants to do the same thing. Cura has a plugin architecture which is extremely versatile and could allow this sort of feature in a plugin. I imagine the plugin would have 36 built in STL files (for 26 letters and 10 numbers - or maybe some more characters and maybe lower case characters) and allow y
    1 point
  17. It looks like the effect is mainly on heights where there is a sudden big difference in surface area? Is that correct? In the past I noticed that when the surface area per layer changes abruptly, this causes visible horizontal lines, a bit similar to yours. But mainly in *small models* (I don't do much big models). So in my case it is most likely due to changes in cooling time per layer, I guess. Do you have the same printing speeds for all (inner and outer walls and infill)? If not, a sudden change of speed may cause fluctuations in nozzle temp and pressure, and that m
    1 point
  18. The issue was fixed by ahoeben for the 4.10 release, so updating should also do the trick.
    1 point
  19. The amazing @ahoeben has already provided a way for people to do this: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/CustomJobPrefix Don't forget to donate if you like his work; He's providing all of the plugins that he makes completely free of charge!
    1 point
  20. The model is "broken". It contains missing or extraneous faces, which confuse Cura. The polkadot pattern shows where the model has issues (ie: a lot of issues!). In addition to the missing or extraneous faces, the models are broken (but those should not affect the slicing much). Some of the normals are inverted (causing the red faces on top).
    1 point
  21. 1) What Torgeir said about the steps/mm. 2) The bondtech is skipping? Really? Is the tension half way up the scale as described here? http://www.bondtech.se/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Bondtech-DDG-Ultimaker-V1.0.1.pdf Is it possible the filament is slipping through the feeder and the stepper isn't actually going backwards? 3) When you use the i2k you should cut off part of the teflon part by the same amount. So if the i2k is 1mm thick then slice off 1mm from the teflon part. If you don't do this - particularly on the "plus" series printers like yours, that alum
    1 point
  22. You could write it up over at the GitHub site. That would insure somebody takes a look. Not all the contributors hang around here. Besides reporting bugs it's the place to put New Feature requests.
    1 point
  23. selon la forme de ton objet, la déformation ne sera pas identique donc la modification non plus. sur un cube test environ 0,1 mm c'est très vendeur comme test, mais sur des surfaces courbes orientées différemment tu peux avoir 0,3 mm. c'est pourquoi il est conseillé, quand on veux une grande précision, de faire un proto d'abord. puis de corriger le 3D.
    1 point
  24. This is a little Windows app I wrote for leveling and printing from your computer instead of having to use the LCD. It also has a built-in E-step calculator and shows printer responses to commands. It prints from the SD card rather than sending gcode over the USB port but does require a USB connection. There is a readme file and the total program consists of two dialog boxes. It really isn't very complicated and most folks seem to be able to muddle through. It's an unsigned app so if you are inclined to install it you will likely need to get it past your anti-virus. The installer wil
    1 point
  25. C'est plus du déterrage à ce niveau, c'est de l'archéologie !
    1 point
  26. Greetings Im new to this. Can anyone advise, is it OK to leave additional components outside of the build area or are there downsides to this? My reasoning is build the first item, then move it out of the way then move and build the second item? Thanks vm. Al.
    1 point
  27. Well I have modded mine to have a camera so I can monitor the print remotely (Cant attach photos if anyone is interested, running off of an OrangePi), so I have would like to have a tab setup to show the camera, status of the print, etc... Also would like to set it up so when its done printing it can send me a notification via HA and flash the lights in my office to let me know its done. Once I have done that much done, I will probably have more ideas flowing on things I can do
    1 point
  28. je ne vois rien d'anormal, je donne ma langue au chat
    1 point
  29. merci mais tu ne montres pas tous les paramètres, mets l'affichage des paramètres en "all" ce sont tes réglages du "support" qui m'intéresse le plus. si aucun paramètre n'explique ton problème, je ne vois que ta bobine de PVA comme cause racine. et si tu ne veux pas faire d'essai avec un autre filament soluble, il ne te reste plus qu'a faire tes supports en tough PLA.
    1 point
  30. I've wondered the same thing, but in a couple of tests it didn't make a difference.
    1 point
  31. Ahhhh! Quel beau déterrage de post! Sur mon UMO pour la sonde, j'utilise un connecteur de type "JST" au niveau de la tête. Pour la résitance il faut plus gros pour passer le courant et pour ne pas encombrer la la tête, j'ai mis un connecteur de type "XT60" plus loin...
    1 point
  32. Solvay AM Cup is a competition aimed to push the limits of Additive Manufacturing with high performance polymers. Target candidates are start-ups and universities. For this third edition Solvay partner's up with Ultimaker and L'Oreal. This collaboration shines through in this year's theme: This year’s challenge is to design a 3D printed real-world industrial application which highlights the potential of AM to revolutionize production line agility. What else is important: Start: The competition will start on September 1st 2021 and run through to mid-No
    1 point
  33. It's hard to tell with the photo. Could you have some under-extrusion going on? What printer? With your model loaded in Cura and the settings the way you want, use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here. I've got some scraps of PLA left and I can use some up on a test print. But the initial view (from maybe a couple thousand miles away) is that it looks like under-extrusion. 90% infill should be near solid.
    1 point
  34. préviens nous quand tu as résolu ton problème et dis nous quelle solution a fonctionné.
    1 point
  35. Your take is perfectly valid. Cura only looks at these things one layer at a time. Any wall that is entirely inside an outside wall is considered a hole (and gets the Hole Horizontal Expansion treatment). The intrusions on the outside wall connect the outer wall to what was an inner wall in previous layers, making that "inner wall" part of the outer wall. So it is no longer considered a hole. One way to think about it is if the layer is surrounded by "2d" water. Outside walls will get wet, inside walls stay dry. Only inside walls are considered holes. A protrusion as discussed befo
    1 point
  36. d'accord merci, j'avais compris une petite partie mais il me manquait des infos
    1 point
  37. The layer view has nothing to do with this. If you're seeing abnormal movement of the print head I suggest you start a new topic regarding that. And make sure you share as much info as possible, such as a project file, what printer you're using etc.
    1 point
  38. Hi @akayar Your model has a double wall, thou super tiny. As @gr5 said, in this case Cura's newest version "Arachne Engine Beta" (latest version) is the slicer for this problem. Cause there is two walls, the slicer try the closest path and this is why the surface is uneven esp. at the top because the wall distance increase at this place. With Cura Arachne Beta, you'll have much better control of the layer width. Using the default setting for my printer (UM2E+) and used fine profile (0.1 mm line height) and changed "Line width" to 0.5 mm. Checked t
    1 point
  39. Shame on you for this comment. It is wrong in so many ways (economically, environmentally, customer-friendlines,...). But yes, you can also behave like apple and let the customers pay for your bad design choices. @ludo06 Thanks for the upload. I have already 3 cracked tabs and replaced them with 3D printed ABS versions. I have modified the original tab (see the attachments for the stl) to be more rigid with more material in the screw head area by switching to a countersunk screw hole. I have also removed the chamfer at the top for better printability. If someb
    1 point
  40. My work lab I manage now has 6 Ultimaker S5's. We have them inside instrumented 3D Print Clean 870 Pro enclosures (https://www.3dprintclean.com/product-page/model-870-safety-enclosure) We use the lower stand/cabinet area for the switch, UPS, rack server and hub for all the data we collect from prints (humidity, temps, multiple thermal and 4k footage we capture for the researchers). It's been quite an adventure seeing my hobby turn into a full time job!
    1 point
  41. I have made some new modifications/updates to our S5: 1. We bought a top enclosure made by Accante. The quality is very poor and the edges of the PMMA plates have a lot of cracks from the laser cutting process. But it is still half the price of the Ultimaker air manager. 2. I removed the internal USB camera and replaced it with a ELP usb camera looking down from the top. I tried a few different ELP cameras. I think it depends on the 30FPS resolution of YUY2 encoding of the camera how high the resolution in cura is. It does not matter if you buy a FullH
    1 point
  42. Hello One problem is that the material station only discharges cold. The printer does a deprime when the material is changed. The print head is cooled down in stages and the material is pulled out of the print head without forming threads. The newly loaded material passes through a prime. The material is extruded in stages again to clean the printhead. This takes a lot of time. With the current Firmaware 6.4 this process has several bugs. Prime is too short and deprime only works partially with non-UM filaments. This reveals another problem. If a filament form
    1 point
  43. In Cura 4.9, the Top/Bottom settings moved from the Shell category to a Top/Bottom category. Pro-tip: there's a search field on top of the settings list. You can type the name of a setting there.
    1 point
  44. Cura has some "new" (a year or two old now) profiles called "engineering" which are more precise (and not as pretty) but they are only available for the S5 and newer profiles. But the good news is you can apply the same overrides to any profile. Here is what engineering settings have setup: dimensional accuracy profile - engineering settings - accuracy mode Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (first 7 speeds, all except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Ex
    1 point
  45. Sorry but i totaly disagree... For example: Printer stands in a seperate room (acess just for autorisated persons) But printer is in the local network so that i can monitor it. But so everbody else can watch and change things who have acess to the network. The room have a door with a simple thing named key 😄 So a simple password protection at the webserver would be a solution for me. Like every other Network device I know provide (Cameras, diskstations, Octoprint 😉) I don't understand why proposals like this always are "impossible".
    1 point
  46. Hi sorry for late replay 🙂 @suspiciouspingpong So for the holes location you'll need to put screw in the end middle hole (that is original hole) and then mark-it rest of the holes. Front holes are very close to the edge so need to be careful with size of the drill. Cables are rooted this way to reduce stress on the cable bends. Bigger bend radius less stress on the cable.
    1 point
  47. Just did a quick test... used a WeMo powerplug to measure actual usage. Standby, about 22W Heatup from cold, around 401 W (just a few minutes) When bed is on temp, and heating nozzles; +/- 230/240 W During printing; fluctuates around 160/170 W Did the test using the normal PLA profile, meaning BED temp 60C, in at room temperature (20c) Obviously it wil be influenced by the ambient temperature, if you put the machine in a cold shed it will use more power. Also if you print some material like ABS with a higher Bed temp, it will draw
    1 point
  48. I used the exclusive setting.
    1 point
  49. Did you set the slicing tolerance to Exclusive or something else?
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...