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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/2021 in Posts

  1. I'm working on a new plugin that adds a simple measuring aid to Cura: In its current incarnation, the tool lets you pick (and drag) two points and shows the distance between these points. A test-version can be downloaded here: MeasureTool Download the file and drop it onto the buildplate in Cura as if you were opening a 3d model. Then restart Cura as instructed.
    3 points
  2. Note that the Ultimaker 2+ Connect cover WILL NOT FIT your ultimaker 2+. 1) I recommend not using ABS - not sure which property you care about but PLA is typically and tough PLA is tougher. If you want higher temp filament there are other choices (depending on temperature) such as nGen and PETG that are easier to print and don't smell so horrible as ABS. 2) splitting is caused by bad layer adhesion. You can simply lower the fan. A lot. Experiment with the fans - in TUNE menu, bring it down to 0% and then up very slowly until it starts spinning. Note the minimum % w
    2 points
  3. What is the purpose of this post here? If you don't like the plugin, don't use it. @5axes has no obligations to you. Most spreadsheets I used present me with a dialog that lets me select the separator when I import a CSV file. And by "most", I mean all that I can remember using. The link to the rant you posted has no relation to this issue or this forum, so to me it only comes across as link-spam.
    2 points
  4. When the build plate is lowered after the printing is finished, it's ususally impossible to see the final result through the in-built camera. I put a mirror on the left hand wall. Voilà!
    2 points
  5. I stumbled across two companies now when i looked for other stuff and maybe it helps. First Extrudr, which has 3 different types. They seem to be in Austria. Second Unicofil (never heard of them before), which seems to have exactly what you want. They are from Germany. But maybe you can get it somewhere shipped to UK. Greetings
    2 points
  6. The beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.9 is here. This release contains a bundle of bug fixes and feature improvements increasing software stability, and further simplifying and streamlining print preparation as you continuously strive for first-time right results.  What’s new? The Z-seam is now clearly shown in Preview mode.  This ensures that you will know whether the seam will be sufficiently hidden in the end product. This will also indicate the starting point of the print. Thanks to BasF0 for contribut
    2 points
  7. I don't think this is in normal cura but it is DEFINITELY in the MB version of cura made by our own @burtoogle and I've used this feature many times - it's very useful for me when printing above 200mm/sec. There are all kinds of bridge settings. By the way, in either version of cura, once you have the advanced settings open, type "bridge" in the settings search box and it shows you things even if they are normally invisible. Anyway here it is: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases Yeah it seems sketchy but I vouch for the guy. I've met him in
    2 points
  8. Also ich meine bei M203 die Werte von oben zu erhöhen da die mir zu gering vorkommen. Und bei M913 dir dann deine eigene Prozent Werte rantasten das die Achsen laufen aber bei der geringsten Kraft springen. Und wenn dann alle Grenzen korrekt eingestellt, mit testen fertig bist, kannst du das M913 ausblenden. Bzw. wenst du die Werte bei M203 änderst vielleicht passen dann meine Werte von mir die von M913 Mhh, Wir schreiben ja gerade über die Motorströme (mA), in deinen Bild steht nur was von den Steps. Aber ja du kannst das in M92 direkt in der config ändern.
    1 point
  9. Thanks wjbdesign, I unleashed the deception upon my Ultimaker S5 and it fell for it, additionally the print was awesome 👍.
    1 point
  10. Bonjour à tous, Pour décoller la pièce j'utilise un grattoir à vitre avec lame de rasoir. Les spatules sont trop épaisses. La feuille a supporté 5 impressions après elle s'est un peu déchirée.
    1 point
  11. I cannot say what happens in your specific situation, but it is generally not recommended to print via USB, it is just not reliable as you see. And the USB implementation in Cura is old and not supported anymore. So just use the SD card or USB stick or whatever your printer supports and you will be much more happy.
    1 point
  12. Zwecks Strom Stärke M906 noch Ich habe bei X,Y,Z = 1200 (das waren die Werte, wo man an der Tinker einsehen konnte) und für die Bondtech 1100 (nach Anleitung) Deshalb wird auch meine Motorprozentsatz Werte bei dir nicht passen. Ich würde mir da schon werte ermitteln die bei dir gerade funktionieren, aber frühzeitig aufhören, den wenn bei den versuche z.B. Z0 zu ermitteln und die Z-Achse nach oben rennt wirst du krumme Wellen haben/bekommen Ja, je nachdem du gelagert 😉 bist können wir uns der Sache auch annehmen. Bzw. ich habe mir sogar eine Z-Sonde nac
    1 point
  13. OK, dachte mir schon was du mit gcode meinst. Entweder ist dieser auch durch der neueren Version vorhanden! OK, so groß dachte ich mir jetzt nicht, den bei dir schaut das Temperatur Diagramm so gestaucht aus aber egal, wenn du dieses in der Konsole eingibst: M409 F"f" K"sensors.endstops" Solltest du auch die endstop sehen Ausgabe: M409 F"f" K"sensors.endstops" {"key":"sensors.endstops","flags":"f","result":[{"triggered":false},{"triggered":false},{"triggered":true},{"triggered":false}]} Würde ich auf jedenfalls checken ob der
    1 point
  14. Thankyou so much. 🙂 This has really helped me. Your first solution is the right one for me. I don't know why I didn't think of it myself as I am always doing this with gcode for my CNC machine. I guess it didn't occur to me to do this as it's not usually something we do with 3D printers ie. re-zero one axis after a print has commenced but it's a great and simple solution until the bug is fixed. I have reported it through the link you sent me. 🙂
    1 point
  15. Thank you, it seems that the cylinder did extend down through the whole model and as soon as I changed that so that it stopped when it got to the top of each step it managed to fix it. (I do apologize i should have specified what modeling software i was using but the solution that i was given worked anyways)...(I was using Rhino 6) As seen by the dotted red line, i used the edges of the steps to trim the cylinder. Thank you for the help, I was stuck with this for a while, I just wanted to post the process of my solution if any other people
    1 point
  16. So that looks like sketchup. And I can see that some of the faces are white and some gray. So the first thing to fix is, in sketchup, all gray suraces - right click on them and select "reverse faces" such that the surfaces are then white. Also make sure there aren't any interior walls that don't need to be inside your model. Those also mess up cura. Try that and if you still have trouble, post your STL file for us to look over.
    1 point
  17. Greetings, I am running into an issue with the AquaSys 120 and Ultimaker PC filament, with the support autogenerated by Cura. The AquaSys 120 support filament is not adhering to the Ultimaker PC material at all on the sides of the part. The AquaSys 120 filament is bunching up in chunks. I have attached the Cura project which is the latest attempt with slightly slower print speed, 10% reduction, as recommended when having this type of issue. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Note: The brim, composed of the AquaSys 120 looks good, its clear
    1 point
  18. That's a fussy part. If I had to print things like that all the time I do believe I'd get a second extruder so the supports could be PVA (or something easier to remove).
    1 point
  19. Musst aber jedes mal reinschreiben nach einen neu Start oder du schreibst es am Anfang in deiner config (ich habe mir da ein Makro geschrieben das über M98 aufgerufen wird um da meine "Experimentier Einstellung" lade, da brauch man nur eine Zeile ein/ausblenden) Aber das wäre für den Anfang zu große Spielerei. Den Endstop kannst du ja der WebOberfläche überprüfen (Tab Maschinenspezifisch rechte Seite), wie kurz schon mal erwähnt. + wenn die Z-Achse verfährt stimmt ja die Verkabelung. Das stimmt zwar Da kann aber schon noch mehr stehen was mit
    1 point
  20. Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
    1 point
  21. Try this setting to get your model sit flat on the ground plane: This is also a nice plugin I recommend, if you havent already installed it, written by Nallath. It will calculate best orientation for the model and orient it for you (you can change orientation manually anyway you want still)
    1 point
  22. Sounds good. Get a spool of nGen from colorFabb (Netherland company). I think you'll like how it cuts with a knife as well. And it looks good. And it's so much easier to print than ABS and will tend to be 10X stronger than ABS (because ABS usually has poor layer adhesion) and it works in higher temps. But if you don't need higher temps, the PLA is the best. Oh and nGen doesn't smell bad.
    1 point
  23. The normal X=0, Y=0 is the left from corner. Delta printers use "Origin at Center", but essentially no other printers use it, so make sure it's turned off in the Machine Settings in Cura. You cannot just replace the negative signs in a gcode file to fix it. Consider that if an extrusion went from X-100 to X+100 and you removed the negative sign, instead of an extrusion 200mm long it would be 0mm long. You didn't mention the printer, but if you absolutely gotta haveta print that particular gcode file you can change the Home Offsets by adding a line to the beginning of
    1 point
  24. Freut mich das du einen schritt weiter gemacht hast Ja die Achsen sollte man erster verfahren können wenn diese erfolgreich Referenzier sind, erst dann kann man die jeweilige Achse über die Jog button verfahren können Zum testen empfehle ich dir auch die Motor Ströme zu senken, somit springen nicht die Riemen über sondern die Motoren geben vorher auf vor allem die Z-Achse könnte noch größeren Schaden verursachen. Ich habe folgende Werte im Einsatz evtl. musst du diese noch etwas nach oben bzw. nach unten korrigieren M913 X40 Y40 Z45 E35
    1 point
  25. These stupid machines can drive ya nuts, but when something gets figured out and the thing starts working right again it's a beautiful thing. Congrats.
    1 point
  26. I print TPU on one of my Ender 3s all the time. Took me quite some time to get the settings right. I also have a direct drive one which needs some different settings, but is also working great now. I use a retrac distance of 2.5mm with a speed of 50mm/s. I also enabled z hop with a height of 0.4 mm to avoid any "antennas". All printing speeds are set to 20mm/s with a hot end on 225°C.
    1 point
  27. Hallo Schön von dir zu hören Ich weiß nicht ob du das schon gesehen hast aber man kann die erstellte config wieder erneut laden in den RepRap Config Tool, dazu must du die Use existing configuration + config.json auswählen. Zwecks Endstop: Es sind active-low. Also wenn ich das noch richtig in Kopf habe, im offenen zustand sind sie getrennt und in betätigten schalten die durch. Aber das kann man auch über die Web Oberfläche testen, da gibt es ein endstop Überprüfung ob diese schalten bzw. dann Dauer on sind. Das bitte auch vorher mal überprüfen
    1 point
  28. Das sind die Engineering Profile die es für die S-Line Drucker gibt. Bei allen anderen Modellen passt man selbst die Geschwindigkeiten an. Ich verwende zB am UM3 meist 35mm/sec für alles, auch Jerk um das zu eliminieren.
    1 point
  29. ayooooooo It worked!!! I actually already had z-hop enabled but it didn't match my layer height so it didn't go high enough. Just adjusted it to be the same as my layer height and no more problems!! Greg is good. Greg is #1. Greg for president.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. The cause is filament leaking from the nozzle while traveling through the air, due to the pressure in the nozzle not immediately dropping to zero. Especially with flexible, compressible filament. This leaking causes a sort of "insect antennas": the drop on the nozzle is deposited on the edge of the next wall the nozzle encounters. And then on the next layer, it is deposited on the previous drop, and so on, creating these antennas. However, you have a peculiar form of it. Rubbery materials (when molten) like PET also have this tendency. Maybe print still slower, cooler a
    1 point
  32. In Cura you can add or change the start and end gcode for your printer. Upper left corner pick "Preferences" then click "Configure Cura". New screen pick "Printers" then click "Machine Settings". New screen you'll see at the bottom "Start Gcode" and "End Gcode". I have a Tevo Tarantula Pro and just got the X5SA-PRO. Cura has a Z.02 in the End Gcode so you might not have to change that. Cura 4.8.0 is what I have.
    1 point
  33. That's a bit tricky and won't make it for the first official version. For now I have made them small, even if you zoom in (similar to how toolhandles of other tools stay the same size when you zoom in or out)
    1 point
  34. Hello there. It seems I found the issue, why some printers rarely have the status "printing" without any progress bar displayed. This appears to happen when the active leveling process at the start of the print failed. Like when one of the nozzles didn't touch the build plate, but the printer somehow thinks so. In this case the printer displays the active leveling as failed, aborts the print job and homes. Most of the times the printer tries the same print job again afterwards. When the active leveling process works in the second attempt the printer works on the print job
    1 point
  35. Sure you can try it, but be warned that you retighten the nozzle as hell to avoid any leakage.
    1 point
  36. A manual way of importing a .curaprofile is to unzip the file and placing the resulting 2 or more files in %APPDATA%\cura\4.8\user
    1 point
  37. Not sure but I think you either have "spiralize" turned on or infill turned off. Most likely spiralize. If you click on the star next to the profile name and click all the tabs (usually just extruder 1) you can see what you have overridden versus the default. Typically they are italic if you changed something.
    1 point
  38. Found an option for this. Use support blocker and modify the settings for overlap. This way I managed to configure lower speed for the area overlapped by the support blocker. Though this is manual step for each new model being sliced. Not sure yet what is causing the observed results, but if this is common issue with insufficient cooling I suppose a fix can easily be applied. An option that reduce speed for small details that participate in larger layer would probably do the job.
    1 point
  39. It submits the data automatically after establishing the link and on each Cura startup.
    1 point
  40. I've never printed TPU but I'd think a low tension would be better. It's pretty flexible and you definitely don't want it getting bound in the feeder gears. Maybe take your gear cover off to see what's going on? Make sure that your remove as much tension in the spring as you can beforehand.
    1 point
  41. Same here although it happened on two occasions for me. I had to replace the sensor board AND the PCB
    1 point
  42. Sorry. I misinterpreted "off the bed". Open the Gcode file. Right near the beginning will be a line ";MINX" and one for ";MINY". If either of them is negative then that's the problem. In Cura click on the name of your printer. Choose Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. On the left there is a box "Origin at Center". Make sure that is de-selected. Most printers have the origin at the left front corner. Delta printers have the origin at center. The Home Offsets in the printer, coupled with the Bed Size in Cura also determine where a print will be on th
    1 point
  43. Morgen (nach alter Zeit😅), Naja das schaut mir eindeutig nicht nach einen UM2 aus (Rot/blau sind die Riemen) Naja du must dann den Steckplatz wählen die wo drunter stehen, PT100 ist nur die Kennzeichnung der Gruppe Aber mir scheint es das du da ein (sehr) altes "PT100 temperature sensor daughter board" erwischt hast! Wo ich 2018 auf Duet umgestiegen bin gab es die schon mit Jumper sodass dieses Kabel überbrückerei nicht mehr notwendig war
    1 point
  44. The black goo is the PLA breaking down from the heat and it causes high friction at the end of the bowden tube. You can cut 3 -5mm off the end of the bowden and re-install the bowden. That is normal maintenance and it's why the bowden tubes are consumable parts of the machine. With the nozzle out, shove the bowden tube down through the hot end and push out any plug of plastic that might be in there. I do full machine maintenance once per month whether it needs it or not. The Y bed travels fore and aft on a 40 x 40 beam (the yellow beam in the image). That beam is connected to the bot
    1 point
  45. Hi gr5. Looking at the picture of the white model the skirt looks pretty good and so do the loops of the model itself. They look like they welded together so the height couldn't be too far off. On the other hand, the first layer skin is a mess. Scouty, gr5 made an in-depth video on bed adhesion that covers most issues. For me, I clean the glass with IPA, and then give it a dusting with Aquanet Super Hold hairspray, and I level with a piece of parchment paper. I get consistently good starts to prints. Since gr5's video will cover adhesion, I'll go over some things about leveling (setting
    1 point
  46. I have MacOS 11.0 - Cura 4.8 - and fixed it with - Adding Cura to "Security & Privacy" - "Privacy" - "Full Disk Access"
    1 point
  47. The Custom Jobname Prefix plugin is now named Custom Printjob Naming plugin. The plugin now has separate fields for a prefix and a postfix. It also lets you specify a path to use. This path will be limited to a subset of all outputs; currently removable drives, the Duet RepRapFirmware Integration and OctoPrint Connection plugins are supported. If the path option is supported by the plugin, a small folder icon will appear next to the job name as a quick shortcut to set the path.
    1 point
  48. Hello, I've been in the same place. Please have a look at the attached file. It should be helpful. Cura profile.zip
    1 point
  49. ‣ Push the collet down ‣ insert the bowden and push it in with some force ‣ pull the collet up (with some force) while still pushing the bowden down ‣ insert the clip The original clip is 1.4mm thick. I designed clips with 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 1.7 mm and 1.8 mm to increase tension on the collet if necessary. Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,4mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,5mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,6mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,7mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,8mm.stl
    1 point
  50. Hiya guys, I was wondering how I can move around the build area in cura 2? I can rotate the view but when I am zoomed in I can't seem to move the view so that I can see some of the part. just to clarify. If I was looking down on the build plate I can't move in x or y direction only rotate. How can I do that? thanks becky
    1 point
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