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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So just to be clear, you don’t own a Ultimaker printer, but use Cura, the free open source product for which Ultimaker is paying a large part of the development, and when something goes wrong you feel the need to bash Ultimaker? I understand being frustrated sometimes..... and you excused yourself already..... but please be nice....
  2. 5 points
    Made these 2 custom downspout diverters. Each one is a different angle. Used openScad to design. S5 to print. zero support was needed. Oh - also the brown barrel has a white hose clamp that I modeled in DSM and printed with Nylon filament.
  3. 4 points
    A test-version that should work with both Cura 4.0 and Cura 4.1 is available here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.0.0-2019-06-11T21_09_03Z.curapackage Download the file, and drop it into a running Cura application window. Then restart Cura. If this version works, it should be available from the Marketplace as an update soon.
  4. 3 points
    This is just a friendly reminder to people that when asking for help, it helps us to help you if you supply things such as models to be examined. It is amazing how many things are actually model related. But without the model and full information (printer, model, etc) it is just a guessing game.
  5. 3 points
    Because it's super annoying to get that to work on all platforms.
  6. 3 points
    The sidebar plugin will always have to be updated for new versions of Cura. It "patches" specific parts of Cura, and when Cura is changed those patches don't work anymore and have to be redone. I do think there are still good reasons to prefer the sidebar implementation over the floating panels, so I will release an updated version of the plugin at some point, but there are some complicating factors at the moment.
  7. 2 points
    My personal viewpoint on software - any software - is to keep using it as long as it is stable and I am happy with it. I can do everything I want with an old MS Office 2000, so if I wouldn't need to be compatible with others, I would still be using that since I like that way more than the horrible "Ribbon" mess from Office 2007 onwards. Idem for a very old image editing program and a couple of others. I keep using old hammers and screwdrivers too. :-) Only things like VLC and browsers need to be updated to get the best performance (video formats) and best page display and security (browsers). Concerning slicers, it might be a good idea to keep a couple of stable old versions on your computer, and install a newer version parallel to it, if you need some of the latest features for some prints. Then you have the latest stuff, plus a fallback. Especially if you have a printer with dual nozzle, the area where the most progress is. But that is just my personal preference, based on my needs. Feel free to see things differently.
  8. 2 points
    Hi every one, I got the same issue as you today. Context: I plugged an additionnal screen while Fusion 360 and Cura were launched. Actions done: I uninstalled the v 4.0 then install the 4.1.. Pb still present. Then I went to the folder were Cura.exe is (C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.1), Clic right on Cura.exe and select 'Solve compatibility problems' from the menu. Then I selected the option "try recommanded parameters"... After few seconds Cura 4.1 launched succesfully. Hope this 'repare' will last and hope this will help you also.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks so much Ahoeben, you rock. Such a huge difference in user experience this makes.
  10. 2 points
    The updated plugin (4.0.1) is now published in the Marketplace for both Cura 4.0 and Cura 4.1. When Cura 4.2 is released, I will have to make a new version.
  11. 2 points
    In Cura gibt es ein Setting "Print Thin Lines", damit werden auch dünnere Wände gedruckt.
  12. 2 points
    That is the idea. At least the person who wrote/updated the definition for the printer you use thought it was an improvement. Ultimaker does not test this, neither do I (I don't have a monoprice mini).
  13. 2 points
    It sounds like it's bricked. Please, do you know what version it is? I think it might show the version briefly on power up. You probably have the "stepping stone" version which was never meant to be used to print but meant to be used to upgrade to the next version. That version has this bug you describe. But if this is the absolute latest version that came out a few days ago, then it would be good to know this. How to unbrick:
  14. 1 point
    When the printer slows down for the corners, the pressure in the nozzle is still high and so it overextrudes. Basically anytime the head slows down it overextrudes and anytime it speeds up it underextrudes. And it has to slow down for corners. The fix is to disable accel and jerk control (so it spends less time on the corners and accelerates the hell out of there). Also lower the print speed. I find 35mm/sec is pretty good but 25mm/sec is even better. You can experiment in the TUNE menu and play with the feedrate % and keep notes and get lots of data on just one cube. However disabling accel and jerk control will increase ringing and that red cube above has an X with some shadows/ringing. So you can compromise and leave the accel/jerk control at defaults and instead just slow down the print. Also it's good to keep all infill and shell speeds at the same. As I said before, every speed change is a problem.
  15. 1 point
    If you have a powerful computer on your printer, such as a smoothie board or other cell phone processor then you can make this quite small, say 0.1mm, because those tend to have a buffer that can store 100 gcodes at a time so if there are 30 steps going around a rounded corner that should be fine. But if you have an Ultimaker (UMO through S5 models so far) that has Marlin in it or almost any of the other 99% of 3d printers in the world, Marlin only stores 16 future moves at a time and has to be ready to stop by the 16th. So it will print amazingly slow if you lower this to 0.1mm and your model is very high resolution (like, say, yoda). The current value of 0.8 or so, should be fine. It means that minimum line lengths are 0.8mm.
  16. 1 point
    Yes it is possible. You couls do it on UMO, UMO+, UM2. I upgraded my UMO+ to UM2 DUAL+ http://www.jtronics.de/werkstatt/3d-drucker-ultimaker-umo-upgrade/ Next time I will upgrade it to DXU. The printing results are the same like with my Ultimaker 3.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    The top surface is probably pillowing, i.e. you are not printing enough layers to close out the surface. Also/alternatively your fans are not running at 100% - I am assuming you are using PLA. With 0.3 layer height you will need at least 3 top layers, personally I would use 4 minimum to get the job done. You can always dial it back if you watch the print and see how many layers you do need. Generally speaking the thinner the layers the more top layers you need. So with 0.15 layers you will need at least 6 top layers but probably 8. Then in addition with the thinner layer you may need another 2 or 3. As before specify enough. Watch how many you do need and dial back if required. The bottom layer. I suspect this is over-extrusion and/or the nozzle being very close to the bed; nothing wrong in that but you need to compensate. I always run my nozzle/bed distance very tight and print the 1st layer at 70% flow to compensate
  19. 1 point
    Don't you have to switch the gcode flavor to "Marlin" from "Ultimaker 2" for being able to set temperatures for an Ultimaker 2 family printer in Cura?
  20. 1 point
    I posted the cube above but here’s a MattForge print I did overnight on the 720 x 350 x 400 FT-6
  21. 1 point
    If you disable the prime blobs and put a single skirt line around your rectangle, you might loose 4mm in each direction (assuming a 0.8mm nozzle and two skirt lines; one for each extruder and a little bit of space between skirt and print). I would not call that much less.
  22. 1 point
    Hello @abbrowna, that looks like the wall gap filling and not skin. The way to tell is to set Fill Gaps Between Walls to Nowhere and that should make it go away. The wall gap filling Cura is pretty broken (along with the thin walls printing). I have a Cura build that provides a different implementation of those features and it may well work better. If you wish to try it, my builds can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the project file. I think the problem is caused by the model not being watertight. The mesh tool model checker detects that...
  24. 1 point
    Ok, I've created an issue here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5894
  25. 1 point
    Is this more like what you expect to get? I opened your 3MF as a model, not as a project so I could apply my "Small Part with Support" profile to it. Try my 3mfOverhang_XYZPro.3mf My nozzle size is .6 (3DSolex) but no matter. Just change the line width back to .35 for your .4 nozzle. All of my settings should be included if you open it as a Project, not as a model. I have no idea which setting is the solution, but I have customized a lot of them. Let me know if this solves your problem. Hope this helps . . .
  26. 1 point
    It's worth to try. It can fix some minor issues with the firmware. If not, then recovering the firmware with an image is the only option left. You will find instructions here on the forum.
  27. 1 point
    @ultiarjan has a good point with 2nd hand machines. If you want to buy it from a more official point, look out for refurbished printers. In Europe, some distributors offer this and FBRC8 in the US does it as well. Why would you not buy an Ultimaker 2+ even when in a year or two a successor would come out? If the printer offers what you need, then it's a good deal. If it doesn't you should also not buy it later. Does that make sense for you?
  28. 1 point
    I could have sworn I saw one of the other dev's commenting on my change, but I see that hasn't happend yet: Long story short, there was a reason we started cutting it off at 3: The engine only works with (integer) microns, so x.xxx millimeter is the best precision you're going to get out of it. Anything else would just (in effect) deceive the user. Therefore, I've had to revert the change 😞 ... and this is why we usually make tickets 🙂
  29. 1 point
    The one from 3dsolex does, yes, because it's 0.5mm and also because it has no internal structure. But every manufacturer of nozzles has a different internal structure with different length of the final 0.4mm tunnel. More info in this video but this guy is sometimes amazingly stupid, but usually quite smart. He didn't notice that the channel is longer in the e3d version. I'm pretty sure the channel length is the key difference in this case in his video. Just watch for a few seconds starting at 12:28 (link should jump you to 12:28). But check out the internals of a 3dsolex "race" nozzle!:
  30. 1 point
    I'm afraid not. You would have to delve into the C++ code in the backend to be able to add/change the skin patterns.
  31. 1 point
    4.1 showed my printers immediately, no complaints.
  32. 1 point
    Cura never removes any printers. Ever. It could be that there was a configuration error, but in that situation, you clicked the button to move the profiles over so that they don't cause issues. If it's always running the first startup, it's probably because Cura can't save the preferences file. So if you could share your logs, we can have a look at it.
  33. 1 point
    Oui adieu PVA, je viens de mettre une bobine de flexible sur le 2e tête et ça marche nickel avec un PLA en face. Du coup je vais tempter le mélange PLA et Flex sur une même pièce pour voir... et même pourquoi pas des supports en flex ! soyons fous 😄
  34. 1 point
    Installed 4.1 but it shows the same problem as 4.0 on my laptop. The process cura.exe gets started but the GUI doesn´t come up. 😣
  35. 1 point
    I've just committed a change to master, so the 4 decimal places (instead of 3) should be back in the release after next one as well.
  36. 1 point
    Oh. Outdoor performance. 🙂 Well these are PLA and I have other outdoor PLA. I have a knob that gets a few hours of sun each day for the past 5 years and gets rained on (no protection from rain). It looks like the day I printed it. It's Ultimaker gray PLA. The postal number of my house (as in 15 Main street - the "15" part) is also printed in PLA then primed then painted black. That is a few years old but gets no sunlight and is protected from rain. Mostly. That still looks new. I'll report back in a few year (or sooner if the diverters start to droop as I suspect they might).
  37. 1 point
    I'm trying to resolve the same issue, in S3D there is a lift when traveling setting I'm trying to find a similar setting in Cura.
  38. 1 point
    You are welcome. I've been meaning to mention that for a long time, but keep forgetting. Can't believe others have not struggled as I did to find the location of the macro and mention it. Thanks again for all of your hard work for the benefit of those of us less capable. 👍
  39. 1 point
    STL doesn't have units. Cura assumes 1 unit in STL is 1 mm.
  40. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  41. 1 point
    I think I may have solved it! In all my prints that show these defects, a section was made up of very fine lines with which cura fills gaps between walls. I believe that during these very fine lines, filament oozes away DURING printing because extrusion is so very low, causing ever so slight overextrusion in the structures prior to the retraction! So after the next travel move, the nozzle is empty and has to first fill up before the print can continue as normal. Usually, these defects occur in infill and are not visible in the finished print. This is unless there is no infill, either because the print is very thin and consists of only walls, or because a part of it is narrow and made up of only few lines to begin with! That is also why this issue shows up besides holes so often. I can't believe I may have finally figured it out
  42. 1 point
    I am with you RudydG As much as I appreciate the information; this should have be part of the original information as provided with the printer as well as with the replacement glass build plates. I have always been told by both the Ultimaker Support team and the distributors that both sides of the glass build plate are the same hence the ability to turn them over when chipped. In my opinion; this is another great example of value of the aluminum build plate. Takes care
  43. 1 point
    You can specify the extruder number in the replacement pattern like so: M104 S{material_print_temperature, 0} T0 M104 S{material_print_temperature, 1} T1
  44. 1 point
    The original knurled feeder looks brand new. No wear and tear. I will say that from day one the "optimized" profiles for PLA in Cura have infill speeds that are too high for the stock feeder. My printer has always underextruded PLA on infill using the 80mm/sec setting in the standard profile. In optimal conditions the stock feeder works just fine. However, there are many variables that can contribute to friction/blockage that will cause slippage. Here are just a few: 1. Coming to the end of a roll and the filament is tightly bent. 2. Adding a drybox with additional tubing that the filament has to go through. 3. Some filaments appear to be more brittle/hard and are not gripped as well by the feeder wheel. 4. Carbon buildup on the nozzle in the middle of a print causing partial obstructions. 5. Faster print speeds 6. Lower heat at the nozzle etc. My experience is that these can contribute to failed prints with the stock feeder. However, I am finding that the Bondtech is gripping the filament so much better that it mitigates most of these problems and allows me to print at much faster speeds.
  45. 1 point
    Tight, but can be moved in/out for example on the head adaptor mount.
  46. 1 point
    (maybe a stupid question) Do you set the z axis also for extruder 1? if yes, I haven't done that. Just calibrate your buildplate with extruder 1 just how you normally would do and then set the z axis for extruder 2. if not, I haven't said anything...
  47. 1 point
    Just to let you know, in my case, it was about 5mms, and i had to change the position of the second head, i printed a plstic shim to reduce the gap to 2mms With the 5mms my z axe went crazy during the head change or pick-up.
  48. 1 point
    I replied to cca1. I will have the boards up on my store soon. I'm hoping they arrive to me this week. My kit will include magnets and screws, extension cables and circuit board. The only other thing you need is to get a plus kit or build your own equivalent or use an old "non plus" that was replaced by a plus kit. I only sell to usa, canada, mexico with a very few exceptions (things in my store not in any other store). My store: thegr5store.com
  49. 1 point
    Das es nach dem Geschirrspüler nicht so gut haften will, liegt vermutlich am Klarspüler.
  50. 1 point
    Why is printing via USB such a pain or "not a good thing to do"? We're 2016 now, and the recommended way is to physically take a SD card, put a file on it, then put it in the printer. Why is that? It seems so old fashioned and not needed. USB (even 2.0) is fast enough to transfer a file - why can't 3D printers do it properly that way?
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