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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @BiMNrd the skirt lets you visually confirm that your bed is level and that a good initial layer is being laid down. If the skirt looks much thinner on one area, that is a good indication the bed is too high (too close to nozzle) in that area
  2. 2 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  3. 2 points
    The only suggestion I wanted to make is that you go for the cheapest as both types will work. As GR5 says, the old one delivers a bit more power but we as Ultimaker are not allowed to sell it anymore with new printers. The newer type is a bit more environmental friendly and will save a few cents in electricity.
  4. 1 point
    Hi, I have two printers, an Ultimaker3 and Ultimaker3 extended. They are setup as group with one of them being the host using the Cura Connect. In previous Cura version, when I pressed the button to "Print over network" it would popup a printer selection menu to choose which one to send the print to. Now after installing the Cura 4.3.0 this window does not pop up anymore and the print is send to the first available. This is inconvenient as I have different color material on each and I'd like to chose which one can print... Can you bring back that printer selection menu? Is there a setting somewhere to enable it back? Thanks Thanos
  5. 1 point
    Not sure if it's of any use but I currently have some ultimaker nylon parts in use in Arizona. They are being being subjected to water and the sun daily and not fairing well either structurally or dimensional y.
  6. 1 point
    I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
  7. 1 point
    The first is typical if a section breaks away. All further layers printed over that area are printing on air, producing spaghetti or birds nests... the second looks about normal for PVA.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    After a bit of a struggle I can now build Cura development releases for Windows based on PyQt 5.13 (PyQt 5.10 is used for my earlier releases). Those of you having problems running the Ultimaker releases (e.g. no window appearing) may wish to try my latest (1012) build just in case the more recent PyQt fixes any of the issues. It can be installed alongside the Ultimaker releases without conflict. As always, releases are provided with no warranty, YMMV. You can find them at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 All feedback is welcome, please comment on this thread if you try this release.
  10. 1 point
    at the left red arrow; buttons to select the extruder to use for the selected model at the right red arrow; where you can turn of/on a extruder In the detail setting you can also select a specific extruder for things like support, brim, infill etc...
  11. 1 point
    You see, I've been very busy at my new job lately...I've been directly involved in this project and we finally made a grand reveal to the world 🙂 https://youtu.be/jphG9n8nUSU
  12. 1 point
    Yes, no problem at all, the head on the GO is the same as on the Ultimaker2 (and yes I have one on my GO) And if you're upgrading, I would also change to this fan setup... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud
  13. 1 point
    @Kakos my understanding of what you are trying to do is make a vase with, say, 2 or 3 walls, and that the prior way you did that was to model, for example, a 5mm wall but then print with zero infil causing the wall to be hollow. But that also means the wall would grow to 10mm thick if you doubled the size of the vase. Hopefully I got that right. Another way to consider is: design the vase as a solid form. Not modeling the inside surface...only the outside. slice it with 0% infill, 2 walls, however many layers (or thickness) you want for the bottom, and 0 top layers. This will print exactly 2 walls, well bonded, a bottom, and no top. It also means that even with a complex wall shape, every slice will have exactly the number of walls you specify. The “Shell” command in Fusion 360 (don’t know what it’s called in other programs) is often used to creat constant thickness walls for this kind of model, but it creates a model where the distance is constant along the normals of each oint on the surface. A simple mold, for example, with a 10 degree slope and a shell 1.6mm thick produces a thickness in the slicing planes slightly less than 1.6mm...1.576mm. This can cause it to slice with, for example 3 walls instead of 4, and then try to fill the gap as infil.
  14. 1 point
    update, @SandervG suggested re-install the firmware, did it via USB this time, that seems to have fixed it, will check on a couple more prints. Thanks to @SandervG !
  15. 1 point
    What about changing your bonding method, so your prints can be removed easily? For PLA, I use the "salt method": wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, prior to printing. No glue. This gives good bonding while hot, but absolutely no bonding when the glass is cold. So, models can be taken off very easily. But this is only for PLA, and for low flat models (not for "lantern poles"). For my old manual, see here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ User neotko uses hairspray for bonding, and he removes his models by adding a few drops of window cleaner (if I remember well) when ready. This creeps under the models and dislodges them easily. This seems to work very well for his big models too. For wood glue, some people put the model and glass bed in the fridge, and then it pops off. Probably there will be other methods that are worth trying? With the salt method, I can easily print these models at 100% infill, without edges lifting, and without damaging them when taking off after completion.
  16. 1 point
    Wow, that's an interesting long time project and very well done so fare.
  17. 1 point
    Hi guys, I need to print an Arch project in my S5. I am wondering that will give me the best result. planning to print a .06mm layer height with 0.4 nozzle using PVA. Maybe I'ill try "Normal" if the time get absurd. I want the final model to be white and not necessarily too shiny - essentially what I have seen in the marketing material for Ultmaker arch models. @SandervG @Stefania Dinea Thank you
  18. 1 point
    @BiMNrd Yes and no, you will already have a like brim created by the base of the PVA - you use the pla skirt to extrude some material before the pla print starts, so you can check if it extrudes correctly and to clean the core of pla residue - hope this makes sense.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Thanks, so lets say I want to use UM materials this time. Pla or tough pla? Have you tried any of those?
  21. 1 point
    Yes The leveling process is based on capacity, the bed moves up and the sensor measures the distance. When the nozzle touches the glass, the bed still moves a little bit up and the measurement process knows, ok now the value don't change anymore, so I am touching the glass. When watching the leveling process it looks more dramatically as it is, so don't worry about.
  22. 1 point
    Die Temperatur lĂ€sst sich Konfigurationsdateien einstellen - auf eigene Gefahr. IIRC irgendwo in /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json Ansonsten bin ich mit dem S5 recht zufrieden, gerade weil ich Druckdateien so vorbereiten kann, dass jedermann einfach eine Rolel Filament und die Datei auf USB-Stick nimmt und Teile drucken kann. Ich kann mich darauf verlassen, dass das richtige Filament eingelegt ist (geht natĂŒrlich nur mit UM-Material oder ich ĂŒbertrage das NFC-Etikett) und dass das Druckbett richtig gelevelt ist. Noch etwas MagicGoo auf das Glas und ab dafĂŒr. Bislang eher zu gute Haftung, meist knackt es bei ca. 40°C und die Teile lassen sich entnehmen - absolut plane ABS-Teile! Zum Basteln hĂ€tte ich noch den UM3, der levelt aber auch nicht richtig auf den Hardcore im zweiten Slot. Daheim werkelt der Ender 3 und da habe ich oft große Fragezeichen ĂŒber dem Haupt, warum jetzt etwas nicht klappt. Edit: mit Bild.
  23. 1 point
    Um gewisse Zertifikate zu bekommen mĂŒssen manche Dinge einfach reglementiert werden wenn man Drucker auch an große Firmen verkaufen möchte die diese Zertifikate vorschreiben ...
  24. 1 point
    Cannot work because in our direction the model just touch a bit the glass plate. Turn it around to have a thicker base on the build plate.
  25. 1 point
    chiming in on this topic - I'm currently setting up to print with the 3D Solex hardcore + Everlast ruby nozzle on the UMS5. Our reseller told me that with the CC red core, the active leveling is automatically disabled (by the firmware I suppose). Is this true? ...I'd rather have my printer be "a little less reliable" and being able to disable auto-leveling every time risking that a first layer might not be perfectly consistent, than risking the nozzle and/or build plate being cracked during leveling - this might be a risk with the ruby/sapphire insert in the nozzle, or so I'm told. I realize that I'm not doing it the way Ultimaker is "envisioning" it, e.g. using the CC core, but the issue is bigger to me than just using the 3DSolex core. best, Niklas
  26. 1 point
    Tja, es gibt mit Sicherheit genĂŒgend "Kaffeedamen", die jedesmal den Hersteller verklagen, wenn sie sich die Finger verbrennen... (die GerĂ€te werden schließlich weltweit vertrieben...) ...und anderswo fĂŒhlt man sich halt von solchen Sachen eher bevormundet. Nicht schwer zu erraten, was der Hersteller davon lieber in Kauf nimmt. Zum Basteln (und Finger verbrennen) gibt es noch genĂŒgend andere Gelegenheiten. So sind die globalisierten Zeiten... 🙂
  27. 1 point
    Pictures - great idea: https://www.flickr.com/photos/14363379@N04/albums/72157711272133246/with/48874135048/ (apologies for my rather hurried and slap-dash camera work!)
  28. 1 point
    Thanks. Good observation. On the front housing, there are two bores to restrain the hotend for xy precision, one is above the heatsink and spring, the other is around the bowden coupler. Both bores have teeth around them so it's easier for the hotend to slide. I made the tolerance quite tight and use a drill to spin the hotend inside the housing to run-in. It's metal vs plastic so they fit quite well without being all fixed. I agree that it's not as precise as UM3's tapered socket solution, technically. But I think it's good enough for 3D printing purpose if fitted well, just like the brass bushing on XY rails. I would like to go with more precise solution if I have easy access to machines. The PI insulator does go between the nozzle and bowden tube. The bowden tube coming with hotend is intended to be used without PI insulator, so it needs to be trimmed slightly shorter. But the total length of tube+PI should be slightly longer (about 0.5mm) than the shaft to keep the bowden tube in compression so it doesn't get squeezed shorter by hot filament over time. You need to make sure the nozzle is right up against the heat break, metal to metal. Heat the block to at least 160 degrees before install. And hold the block firmly when screw nozzle in. If there is cold plastic, debris or air gap between the nozzle and heat break, it will leak.
  29. 1 point
    Since I did adjust this for my printers beginning this year I don't have huge discrepancies anymore. +-1% instead of +30% to 40% before what means minutes instead of hours for my printers.
  30. 1 point
    You can always check whether the printer will print correctly by looking at the preview tab. In this tab you see what the printer will do. You can however be relatively sure that yellow parts will just print.
  31. 1 point
    What you see on the print bed in Cura what you get
  32. 1 point
    Hello, During the years the site has been getting better and better, so this is a good evolution. But I think it could still contain a bit more diagnostics manuals and tips and tricks that come back very often in the forum. For example: - A detailed list of all existing and well working bonding methods to the glass bed: the "official" glue stick, the official glue stick + wiping it with a wet tissue to egalise it, 10% wood glue in water, hairspray, my salt method (PLA only), 3DLAC, sheets, etc... With all their advantages and disadvantages. So that people can try them, and choose the one that works best. - A detailed list of possible causes of underextrusion, like the one gr5 has (ask him if you can reuse it). - Etc..., just all the things that keep coming back on the forum.
  33. 1 point
    Zum Thema. Mich stört viel am Ultimaker. Er ist eigentlich nur mehr fĂŒr Kaffeedamen gedacht. Soviel das ich jetzt der Firma nahe legen werden den S5 zu verkaufen. Wenn ich denke sie können nicht noch mehr beschrĂ€nken und noch weniger Infos anzeigen schaffen sie es wieder. Mit dem letzten Firmware update lassen sie nach dem Druck zwar noch das "AbkĂŒhlen ĂŒberspringen" aber dann mußt du warten bis die Grundplatte nicht mehr "heiß" ist bis du einen nĂ€chsten Druck machen kannst. Wir sind ja zu dumm um mit etwas Warmes zu handhaben. Hab wieder die alte Firmware augespielt und damit ist das Thema Firmware Update und hoffen das es besser wird auch durch. FĂŒr diejeniges dieÂŽÂŽ es lesen - ich hab den S5 bestellt weil ich mit dem UM2+ noch gut zufrieden bin. Das mit den 25 Grad ist mir noch nicht aufgefallen, aber passt zur Ultimaker Einstellung. Was soll die BeschrĂ€nkung in der Entwicklung? Und wenn ich Heizplatte wĂ€hrend dem Druck ganz ausschalten will. Das geht doch Ultimaker nichts an. Ich versteh diese Einstellung nicht. Genauso wie die Abschaltmöglichkeit des Active Leveling. Ich hasse das Bevormunden. Kommt mir wie bei Windows vor. Ich bin selber Softwareentwickler. Wenn der User da was runterdrehen will - dann soll er doch. Ich lass es soweit zu bis es einen Fehler geben wĂŒrde. z.B. ein Minuswert wenn ich das nicht ausprogrammiere.... Naja - werde wohl die Marke wechseln denn die Richtung von UM wird sich nicht Ă€ndern.
  34. 1 point
    Nous avons pu faire des tests, donc je viens donner la réponse à ma question. Le PLA, le PETG et l'ABS ont tous les 3 fait l'affaire. ils n'ont pas bougé et ont résisté les dizaines de minute de l'expérience.
  35. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  36. 1 point
    My Company does use Ultimaker sure it is only slightly more then a hobby and all profits only goes towards buying me more filament to play with but I do earn money from my printer, I do claim it on my taxes and I am already planning on getting the new S5 upgrades in Oct. (My story so far) I am on my 6th 3d Printer now, its an S5 I plan on updating to the Pro shortly, I got into this as a business by accident. I recently purchased a new home; it was a big fixer upper. When the local window guy came out to replace the windows, I was sitting at the table working on my I3 Mk3 he asked me “what is that” we talked for a few minutes. He asked if I could make something for him, I said I would try, he rummaged in the back of his truck, he pulled out a mangled plastic part, he explained “ This is a window screen clip for aluminum windows, the company no longer exists, if someone needs a clip I have to sell them for 5 bucks each used” I looked at it spent 20 minutes in tinkercad and had a proto-type with great creative license because I had to basically guess what it looked like when it was new and still worked. 800 clips later it’s a business, I make proto-types and engineering samples, I do custom print orders with a few rules, 1. I will not print items downloaded from a website it must be your own item, and if I find the item object able I will not print it (I turned down an order for a very large multipart adult toy “gag gift” this year I made enough for the S5 and most of the pro upgrade cost. All in my spare time
  37. 1 point
    Hello @SandervG, The UMS3 was the printer I've been waiting for, but came a bit late as I purchased an UM3 a few months ago. The one feature missing on the UM3 is the filament flow sensor, and this has cost me already quite some filament on long (2 day +) prints, with the filament jamming and as a result of that being ground away without the printer knowing it has stopped feeding plastic. After some research on the forums I found that there was a project for the UM2+ with a filament flow sensor working quite nice. I also read that the initial intend was to include a filament flow sensor in the UM3 but is was scrapped during development because the results were not reliable enough. Now, a few years later both the S5 and S3 have a working filament flow sensor and I figure that the code and reliability are now up to Ultimaker’s standards So this got me wondering, since the intent was to include the sensor in the UM3, there is space for the sensor wheel, the PCB and the wiring. So does the UM3 firmware and main board have the possibility for the implementation of a filament flow sensor, and what would be necessary to do so, or is it possible to pause the print externally with a third party sensor, or just a rotary encoder (for example via an I/O input). Also now that the sensors are implemented in both the S5 and S3, the firmware for this sensor should be pretty optimized by now, but the firmware for the S5 is not yet open source (I might be wrong? couldn't find it on github), so implementing this in the UM3 firmware shouldn’t be that difficult. The only issue would be the signing of the firmware before uploading. Since I have a background in electrical engineering and writing firmware/software, implementing a filament flow sensor in the UM3 looks like a fun thing to do and I guess that there are plenty of people who would love to tinker with a flow sensor in their Ultimaker. So when/where can I find the firmware for the filament flow sensor and would it be possible to (co-)develop this into a product? With kind regards, Theodor
  38. 1 point
    When my trick didn't fix the problem then I assume the power supply is damaged and you best replace it. There are several compatible power supplies: Mean Well GS220A24-R7B is the older model Mean Well GST220A24-R7B is the current model which complies to the latest regulations regarding efficiency and EMC radiation but has a slightly stricter output capacity (the load variation range is more limited). Both models will do the job, except that companies are not allowed to sell the older model anymore for new products. You as a consumer can buy the cheapest one you can find. As reference, here in Europe the new model is sold for €63 excl. VAT.
  39. 1 point
    There's 2 ways to fix this. One is to just turn off leveling. It's really a waste of your time as manual leveling is so simple and easy and you only have to do it when you swap out cores and usually not even then. If the nozzle levels too close usually it's because the spring in the core is weaker versus the spring in the bed. You need the core spring stronger because the leveling doesn't know you've hit the bed until it starts moving so if the core moves first then there is a problem. So loosen those 3 springs by turning the 3 knobs about 5 or 10 turns CCW (as seen from below). That might be too loose to level but try that first and do a manual level (mandatory if you move those screws that much) and then see if auto level is better after that. Don't loosen them too much. Another solution is to remove the "bad" core. Remove that one screw in the clear plastic part, take the spring out and stretch it such that it is about 5mm longer. Put it all back together and it will work great for another few years.
  40. 1 point
    A printer rebooting during the build plate heating up is almost certain a power supply problem. During the first phase of heating up, till about 50C, the power supply is stretched to its limits. Since everything was working smoothly before and now not anymore, what did you change with respect to the power supply block? Did you perhaps switch the power supply block with that from another printer? Did the ambient temperature in the room change? Perhaps the power supply block gets warm because it is now in the sun or next to an active heater? When nothing was changed and none of the above questions applies, then perhaps you have a power supply block that's at the lower end of the specifications. Contact your reseller if warranty applies. There is also a software workaround when you are brave enough to change a configuration file on the printer... - Enable developer mode from the menu - Open an SSH connection to the printer - log in as root / ultimaker - type: vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json - Scroll down to line 102 - Change the maximum power supply wattage from 221 to 200 (first press the 'insert' key to be able to insert new text). - exit the editor by typing after each other the 4 keys: 'ESC : w q' - exit the SSH connection by typing: exit - reboot the printer
  41. 1 point
    I can't answer your questions about breakaway, as I never used it. But concerning PVA-regulations: if you can not legally dissolve it and flush that waste-water down the drain, then maybe you could legally pour it over old newspapers, let dry, and throw away these newspapers? Then it does not pollute rivers. Very often old paper is recycled separately, this is the preferred option. But in our city it is also allowed to throw it in the regular "rest-section" of trash, because it makes it easier to burn that rest-section. See your local regulations. Or make papier-maché from it (=mix of old paper, water and wood glue until it is a clay-like paste), and use that to mould artwork? Or let the kids make art and toys with it? (But check the skin-safety first and let them wear gloves.) This might be a temporary and legal workaround until you get the other issues solved?
  42. 1 point
    I'm now waiting almost a month for the requested log files.... đŸ˜Ș Without the log files I can't convince our management to put the probem high on the actions list. Please people. help me helping you! This works two ways. You correctly complain about problems, but when I want to help you, you should give me some pointers. Please mail me the log files using the message function of this forum (hover over my name next to this post and from the menu that pops up select the 'message' option). Create the log files by performing an Active Leveling function and then from the Maintenance menu choose the option 'Dump logs to USB'. Ensure to include all generated files, including the probe report files.
  43. 1 point
    here's the situation: Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration. Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out. After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration.. after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not have this issue. I have done a lot of tests, switching print cores(i have purchased one extra print core), and the result is the same. So i guess it is not the problem of the print cores but something is wrong with the machine doing Z calibration. And it seemd to me the machine is ignoring the Z calibration that is done in active leveling, so every time when print started, it went all the way pressing nozzle too close to bed again. Not sure if this is a firmware issue but i would like to post here to see if it shines any clues. Some other users also have this similar problem and is forced to print on one nozzle (Core 1), unless one kept doing manual leveling and forces the machine to never do auto leveling thus not to override manual leveling setting. And this seemed to happen fairly recently, so i guess it could be something about the latest firmware update.
  44. 1 point
    Go to C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.1. Right click on Cura.exe and go to the "compatibility" tab. Choose which version of Windows you have in the drop down list. (Note: For Windows 10 choose Windows 8 ) Hopefully that fixes it for you.
  45. 1 point
    Comme disait Lao tseu: "Courroie mal tendue, impression toute tordue" C'est fou ce qu'il Ă©tait visionnaire!
  46. 1 point
    I think I may have solved it! In all my prints that show these defects, a section was made up of very fine lines with which cura fills gaps between walls. I believe that during these very fine lines, filament oozes away DURING printing because extrusion is so very low, causing ever so slight overextrusion in the structures prior to the retraction! So after the next travel move, the nozzle is empty and has to first fill up before the print can continue as normal. Usually, these defects occur in infill and are not visible in the finished print. This is unless there is no infill, either because the print is very thin and consists of only walls, or because a part of it is narrow and made up of only few lines to begin with! That is also why this issue shows up besides holes so often. I can't believe I may have finally figured it out
  47. 1 point
    If you are in the UK and looking into other hotend options, have a look at E3D... they are UK based and make quality stuff... If you are still using the original electronics, you could look into replacing those to give you a good base for expansions... I still run my UMO as well, and got tired of the 19V original electronics a long time ago... I went with a RUMBA board and a big 24V power supply mounted under the printer which runs both the printer itself, LED lights and a 3rd party heatbed. Swap your stepper drivers with the silent stepstick types as well at least on the x/y axis... I run TMC2100, I know they now have a TMC2130 model... They are a bit expensive, but it is by far the most noise reducing upgrade you can make and is pretty simple plug and play. Here is a few pictures of my printer from its major rebuild some years back:
  48. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    - absorbs the vector-forces => longer life for and lower noise from the printer - level the printer
  49. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    Ultibot head toilet roll holder
  50. 1 point
    As I my PPA is mentioned in different places, I just thought to open a topic here for all questions and discussions related to it. Here a short summary of it: It is a personal project and Ultimaker does not give any support on it. (Not mentioned in the FAQ) The benefit compared to the "fat bundle" provided by Ultimaker is that some software dependencies get installed multiple times on your installation when using the "bundle" by Ultimaker. Using my PPA you only install Cura. When looking at the upcoming 2.2 release (currently "master") you'll need to upgrade PyQt5 to 5.5, but it is available in the "master" PPA, too. There are two PPAs: One for stable (2.1) builds and one for weekly builds (what you know as "master" on GitHub. Updates and bugfixes for the current stable release (2.1) are sometimes earlier provided than by Ultimaker The weekly builds are not meant to be used for daily use, of course! I need to prepare the package updates manually, so sometimes builds might be delayed. Installation guide: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/ppa/installation/ Uninstallation guide: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/ppa/uninstallation/ Technical info and support https://thopiekar.eu/cura/ppa/technical-information/ Have fun!
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