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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for all the time and energy you invest in sharing your messages here, trying to share your perspective with others. I like to think that this all comes from the same place; because we care, because we believe in Ultimaker and because we feel frustrated with the existing situation. This can be read in between the lines of several of the recent messages. Let's not allow this care or frustration to turn our efforts where we try and help each other into a scenario where we are opposite of each other, head to head. From day one Ultimaker has been aware of the bugs introduced by this firmware and after carefully collecting feedback of the exact size and impacts of these bugs our firmware team has been working on a fix. I would be lying if I said it was not taking long, that is painfully true. But merely the metric of time does not imply nothing is being done. Quite the opposite, we do not permit ourselves anything less than a reliable and useful release of new firmware, which takes time to build and test. As I stated previously in one of my messages in this thread; if you have an Ultimaker S5, our sales partner in your local region should be able to roll back to the previous firmware version. The Ultimaker would need to be shipped, but shipping should be covered by warranty. To be sure, check with your reseller in your region. I would only recommend to do this if the issues you're dealing with leave you in an unworkable situation, otherwise, I would recommend to have a little bit more patience until the new firmware is released. For an Ultimaker 3, instructions are shared in an earlier message how you can roll back firmware yourself. You can read the instructions before executing this operation to determine if this looks like something you are capable of doing. If not, I would also not recommend going down this path. We know, the only real good solution would obviously be new firmware. This is being worked on. Now as a final note, this is a thread where we try to help each other with firmware issues. We help to see if any logged issues can be solved by a temporary workaround and by sharing updates about firmware developments. I urge everyone to stay on topic. Off topic posts will be moderated.
  2. 5 points
    Hi everyone, I'm also from Ultimaker, also not a firmware engineer but I've been busy trying to collect more information about this uncomfortable situation. If you have read through the past 9 or 10 pages you should know we're very much aware of the issues and are working on a fix. In a previous message I explained that the worst thing we could do now is release a fix for the existing firmware which contained other bugs or does not fix what it should. That is why we're thoroughly testing the new version and it takes longer than any of us wants. The outcome should be a version that we can all trust and reliably use. We're working hard to make that real. A previous version we built and tested did not pass our testing entirely so we choose not to release it. We're almost ready to test a newer build version which, if all goes well, we should be able to release rather sooner than later. But first, it needs to be tested as well. No one would benefit from any unnecessary delays and we also want everyone to get back to reliable and satisfactory 3D printing as soon as possible. So as Nallath says, 'We're working on it as best we can'. Hopefully, with a little bit of patience, we'll have a new version out soon. If there are any relevant updates, I'll share with you via this thread. Thank you for your time and patience so far, it is deeply appreciated. And our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused.
  3. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  4. 5 points
    First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more complex. The "Tokah-Cola' bottle was spurred by all the news about beverage companies trying to figure how to make and market CBD infused beverages. So, I thought this would be a nice little drink. These are the actual bottles with food coloring in the water.
  5. 4 points
    @Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:
  6. 4 points
    hello classmates I want to show my recent work, a design and manufacture of the ultimaker 3 closing printer manufactured in the best acrylic, with the maintenance system of the liver pressure and the ionizer, it also has double top opening and touch screen for Control of the application on black background. I hope you like me
  7. 4 points
    Because I'm not a firmware engineer. So yeah, I reply to things I know something about. Which in this case was scanning & sensors. Or would you rather have me not reply at all or give you false / incorrect information? If you want a nice white lie, I'm more than happy to give it, but I assumed that this is not what you guys want / need.
  8. 3 points
    We’ve just released a beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.1, and we’ve added some improvements based on your feedback: - Collapsible panels introduced in the new interface are now completely draggable and can be positioned anywhere on the screen - Badge notifications have been added to the Ultimaker Marketplace so you know when your packages need to be updated - You can now add separate brims to prime towers - We’ve also made some stability fixes with the monitor page Find the update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52884-try-new-3d-printing-software-features-in-ultimaker-cura-41-beta Help us out by downloading today, testing, and logging any feedback in this thread or on GitHub for us to integrate into the stable release. ***** Firmware 5.2 hotfix update! In other news, we released a hotfix firmware that addresses issues encountered in the firmware 5.2 release. We appreciate your patience and understanding while we’ve been investigating the issues that some of you reported. Download the hotfix here: ultimaker.com/firmware
  9. 3 points
    So we have been getting along brilliantly with our 'fleet' of Ultimaker printers (1x UMOriginal, 1x UM2 and 2xUM3) and ArchiCAD. The Custom Cutting Planes function is perfect for extracting model information to create facade studies straight out of ArchiCAD and into Cura with minimal alterations!
  10. 3 points
    A circle is never a real circle in 3D printing, it is built from polygons. So in your design software, you have to search for a setting with which quality you want to export the file as STL. When you choose a lower quality then you see each polygon if you choose a higher setting, then much more polygons are created to describe the circle and then it looks round as it should.
  11. 3 points
    As promised from my side, but nothing new for you here anymore, I got confirmed by a trustable source via mail, that you got heard already and people are trying to fix your problems asap. First of all, before I continue on some statements here, I have to say that I'm pretty much disappointed by the exposure done on the Ultimaker team by some people in this thread. I think the correct place to let someone know of your disappointment is not a public place like this. I could continue investing more of my energy into telling what I think (will do this later), but I want to make it short by saying: This way of blaming the whole company in public next to other community members, hobbyists and end users from the industry, is neither fair nor professional at all! Yes, you can be frustrated and you might be correct in many of your points, but are you really sure that it would have been better with a different manufacturer? Nevertheless, even if you thank the community for their help, blaming on Ultimaker makes me personally feel really bad. I'm really limited in time every day, but reading all the messages here made me getting active on this. Wanted to prevent this situation and wanted to calm you all down, but see that I missed my goal on some people here. Generally, have the opinion that many of you misunderstood the purpose of the forums. Resellers are responsible for local services and satisfaction. The forums are for announcements and a place created by Ultimaker for 3D printing enthusiasts to share their designs, problems and solutions. Yes, it is a place for support, but not too much on industrial level. Before something gets considered as a solution by Ultimaker it must be tested before (which should correspond with your industrial thinking, because a bad solution is like having no solution). Additionally, backward compatibility is never guaranteed to work since it is never (and probably will never be) tested (logically - since testing and doing downgrades now, would eat valuable time of an engineer to fix the actual problem). As I said before, what counts at the moment, is that a solution will be found soon. I'm sure Ultimaker as a company learned a lesson from that. (I'm allowed the say the following since I'm neither employed by Ultimaker nor making money with neither Ultimaker nor someone else right now.) Please, take some of your time, find a quiet and enjoyable place and think about how you communicate here. I know from my experiences with industrial (incl. automotive) companies that life can be stressing, but that's no excuse to be like this. Getting no answer from someone in time doesn't necessarily mean that someone is lazy and not doing her/his best to come back with a (real!) solution. Everyone who knows me can tell for sure that I could continue at this point and end up in a book. In any case, I'm convinced of Ultimaker products and trust their work! Thanks - Thomas Karl Pietrowski
  12. 3 points
    @Smithy Thanks for joining
  13. 3 points
    taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  14. 3 points
    solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramètres du menu, j'ai essayé de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncèlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassée durant le print. cela gênait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  15. 3 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  16. 2 points
    Hello @nubnubbud. In theory it's just a matter of cloning the cura-build-environment repo and following the instructions to build that and then cloning the cura-build repo and following the instructions to build that. However, I have found that I cannot build a working cura using the master branches of those repos. In my forks of those repos I have my own branches that I work from (mb-linux, mb-windows and mb-osx). I am no longer able to build a working OS X binary but the mb-linux and mb-windows branches work with the current master branches of the cura sources. So, you could try cloning my repos and trying to build from them. See https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build-environment and https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build. Hope this helps.
  17. 2 points
    Bonjour, Je suis dans le même principe: plutôt prévenir que guérir. Graissage (toutes les 100 ou 200h, un peu au pif) des axes X et Y à l'huile type "machine à coudre", et graissage de la vis Z à la graisse téflon. Ensuite, JAMAIS de démontage de buse à froid et TOUJOURS commencer à visser les buses à la main, sans utiliser de clé, pour éviter de baiser les filets. Enfin, soigner les températures afin de ne pas faire cramer les filaments ce qui évite d'avoir à faire des "nettoyages atomiques" (plus très sûr du nom car ça fait plus de six mois que j'en ai pas fait.). Plus un coup d'aspirateur à l'intérieur quand c'est trop cracra. J'ai rien fait d'autre et ma machine affiche 3274h de mise sous tension, 1967h de "print" et 1323m de filament englouti. voili voilou
  18. 2 points
    If @ahoeben did not do this (to *some* of his plugins), every user upgrading from Cura 4.0 to Cura 4.1 with the OctoPrint Connection plugin installed would have been greeted with a crash dialog with the option to kill all their settings, because once again this SDK update was messed up like it has been many times in the past. Please don't suggest that I do this "out of a personal decision". Time and time again this has proven to be a necessity.
  19. 2 points
    A prerelease version of the OctoPrint Plugin for Cura 4.1 can be dowloaded here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-05-16T10_29_36Z.curapackage Please drop the downloaded file into a running Cura application window, and restart Cura. Unless issues are reported with this version of the plugin, it should be available as an update on the Marketplace soon.
  20. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  21. 2 points
    I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  22. 2 points
    This an issue of any fdm. At 0.15-0.2 layers the time at that point shortens and it’s a small loop followed by different size infill. It’s easy to understand if you check the gcode preview what happens there. Since there’s no slicer out there that can compensate time va heat va flow, the temperature for that 2 layers changes making the print show a visual defect. Its the same effect that happens when a small island is detached from the model, as soon time and head stays more time on an area the difference from flow/temperature makes a visual defect. The solution is to print everything slower/cooler, that’s why this doesn’t show as much on 0.06-0.1 Also some materials show more this than others just because at different mm3 the filament stays ‘hot’ more time, shifting the color. So as soon the filament prints with delay (at that height suddenly it has 4 jerk slowdowns (max speed to change direction) the filament stays more time on the hotend, so is actually hotter than the filament of the lower layers that does suffer less jerks because the nominal extrusion speed is easier to achieve). Chechk your gcode with a good analyzer like https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and you will see a big slowdown on the affected area
  23. 2 points
    Hi @MarcM and @ben1272, thank you for your message. We were also not happy with the decision to abort the development of this aluminum build plate, and the test results that lead to this decision. While reading through your posts I also noticed what user gr5 mentioned, bed adhesion did not seem to be mentioned in your post as a problem. This is the only element an aluminum bed would have had an effect on. @MarcM, you shouldn't need to rely on those 300+ settings in Ultimaker Cura to get reliable prints. In Cura you should be able to select the material that you use and it should load all appropriate settings specifically for this material. These settings are usually always good, but never perfect. Because it is like a one size fits all approach. That's why the other settings are available, when you have gained some experience and insights, and possibly with the help of our community of 3D printing experts here, you could find the exact settings that work for you. If either of you need any help getting a certain material to stick to your build plate, please let me know. Some materials need an additional adhesive (like a glue stick, or adhesion sheets), and we can help you find the right adhesive for you. You may find that an additional glass plate with an adhesion sheet may work for you after all. If that may not be the case, and an additional glass plate is not really something useful for you, please let me know via DM and we can look into a reasonable and satisfying alternative.
  24. 2 points
    Again; Ultimaker has 400 employees. There is no hidden conspiracy that "holds me back". It's simply that there is not enough time in a day, even if I'd work 16 hours, to keep track of all the things that are going on. So could you pretty, pretty please stop pretending like this is some nefarious thing that is going on (or that is the cause of incompetence). Because it's not. You keep saying that you're doing this to help, but it's doing the exact opposite. To be honest, I don't really believe that you're trying to help. Because it's not the first time I've called you out on this and told you that it's doing the exact opposite. A fair part of what you say is simply not true. There are no distributors of Ultimaker in the US. We have resellers, but that's it. So I'm really wondering who you talked. I know for a fact that delays and releases are always communicated with resellers. But to take some more specific points; 1. You got compensated for this with something of greater value. Also, would you rather have had something that didn't work? Because if that's the case, I'm more than happy to send you the aluminum plate. I'll pay for the shipping myself, but then I don't want to hear you complain about it anymore (Either you not getting it or it not working at all). 2. These issues were fixed within 2 (!!) months. Good luck getting any of that in any other industry. And don't say stupid things like "But it would neve have happened there", because that's a lie and you know it. This can happen everywhere, what matters is how you deal with it. 3. Which firmware updates bit you in the ass? This is the first one right? 4. Promised where exactly? I'm not aware of any such promise. 5. I've not seen any issues with the filament sensor so far. I've got it turned on and working fine. If you look at the forum, you're pretty much the only one with the issue. Now I do get that this sucks (especially with everything combined) but this kinda seems like a fluke. "Has Ultimaker offered prepaid shipping back to them for serving the issues" -> Nonsense. This is something we offer. Because ya know. It's the law. " if I had purchased an Apple product it would have been replaced" -> Same goes for Ultimaker. This is the primary responsibility of the reseller to do this. I understand why they don't want to because it costs them money, but that's what they are paid for. I'm getting the idea that your reseller is putting all the blame with Ultimaker ("Because they entrusted to you that they recommend other printers") whereas the blame is with them. " there are no field service technicians in place such" -> Again not true. All the resellers get mandatory training with regards to repair. So, you want to continue "fighting" this out in public? Because I'm more than able to show you that it's not as you describe it by a long shot.
  25. 2 points
    Thank you very much tinkergnome. Switching between the two firmware UM2 and UM2+ didn't work. But your second hint worked very well. I've installed the printrun, and connected the UM2 via USB. With the Baud rate of 250000 I could communicate with the UM2. As you described I just had to send the Command M502 and M500. It worked perfectly. Afterwards the bed didn't crash anymore into the printing head, and I could work through the first configurations steps. THANKS A LOT!
  26. 2 points
    Getting an obstruction sensor in a single line with that tolerance? You're lucky to get that for below a few hundred $ in parts alone. A line scanner of that quality is about 7k ish.
  27. 2 points
    Birdfeed holder, to attach the bird feeder to the new small tree in our garden, with branches too thin, but with a 40 mm diameter trunk. Fixed with two velcro stripes. Filament is Nylon transparent from Ultimaker, construction with Fusion 360.
  28. 2 points
    Okay I found out that for some reason when I was writing all the details about my pritner as it is in "custom" ones, option for the filament diameter didn't show. Now it was set to 2.85mm while I use 1.75mm. I will try now and see what I get and update here.
  29. 2 points
    Well; after over 4 weeks of sharing the issues, having the Ultimaker Team acknowledge that they are aware of them, and yet still no clear path to resolve the issues nor any element of urgency evidenced; I give a thumbs up to “thopiekar” for entering this arena. Even my USA distributor has remained unable to resolve issues because they tell me that Ultimaker has still not gotten back to them; this after over 3 weeks. If not for the lack of communication from the Ultimaker Team within this forum I likely would not believe them and yet I do, and I also find myself feeling bad for them because they too are dealing with the exact same thing. This situation has gone from not good, to beyond unacceptable. The Ultimaker Team and their distributors direct customers to this forum for support and guidance however, it appears that this forum is also used to shield the world by keeping the proverbial dirty laundry in house; I refer back to an earlier 0.1 percent comment and it not being a sufficient number of affected customers for them to react to on an extreme level. I also recall another customer sharing that he was going to make comments on Facebook , well, maybe it’s time to have the periodicals such as; Make, All3DP, TCT, AllThat3D, etc. print an editorial or an article within their user experience sections? This situation is no longer even marginally acceptable. I will no longer accept having invested roughly $10K USD into a 3D printer along with supplies and spare parts as a tool for my business only to have far less than I was promised and frankly, assured throughout the purchasing process. I asked very specific questions because this is not my first 3D printer. I dealt with and accepted the growing pains as the technology developed always accepting that they were one step away from “hobbiest” 3D printers.Having shared this I have several associates that also own businesses that feel the exact same way as well many within this forum. In retrospect; I that thought that I did my diligence prior to buying into the Ultimaker program haven spoken with several distributors and several folks within the Ultimaker Team. It was during these conversations that I heard hence believed that Ultimaker was setting the 3D printer bar; a bar that other 3D printer manufacturers would have to aspire to oust be left behind. This is why I paid what was considered a premium for Ultimaker’s top of the line 3D printer solicited as designed and thoroughly tested for years prior to being offered for sale to the “businesses” environment. Ultimaker made clear that this was a fully developed 3D printer that could easily be used by the lay person within any office environment. What I have experienced, as well as many many others, is a company that is far from that which they want folks; including their distributors and 3D marketplace to believe. I am very disappointed.
  30. 1 point
    Solved... I resoldered the smd-thermistor (PT100) as the guy in the youtube-video and now it seams to be fixed (i am printing now over 2 hour's without problems). While the heat bed was "cold" the PT100 worked fine, but when i gets warm the values (ohm) wets wired (i tested it carefully with a heatgun). Opticly everything looked fine and in "cold" condition i wasn't able to get wrong values (pushing on it from different directions and so on...). so not knowing if it helps i just put two ugly solder-clumps on both sides of the PT100 and from that point on i wasn't able to reproduce the problem.
  31. 1 point
    Wenn du als Geschwindigkeit 100mm/sec nimmst, druckt er nicht alles mit 100. Ich glaube das ist dann nur Infill etc. da Cura den Wert dann auf die einzelnen Geschwindigkeitswerte herunterrechnet. Du kannst ja einmal im Suchfeld bei den Settings Geschwindigkeit eingeben, dann siehst du alle Settings die mit Geschwindigkeit etwas zu tun haben. Und 100 muss nicht schlecht sein, kommt wie gesagt immer auf das Modell und die eigenen Anforderungen darauf an. Auch das Filament etc. spielt hier eine Rolle, manche Marken und Materialen sind besser zu drucken als andere. (teilweise gibt es sogar Unterschiede bei den Farben) Selbst Teile zeichnen ist toll, aber wenn es schon etwas auf Thingiverse gibt, warum das Rad 2x erfinden. Wenn du dann selbst etwas zeichnen möchtest, dann lege ich dir wärmstens Fusion360 ans Herz. Es ist für Privatanwender kostenlos und du hast alle Möglichkeiten. Extrem einfache Programme wie Tinkercad etc. mögen zwar auf den ersten Blick einfach aussehen, aber sobald du mehr als nur einen Würfel machen möchtest, dann kommst du dort schnell an den Punkt wo die Bearbeitung extrem umständlich wird. Bei Fusion hat mich am Anfang der Umfang abgeschreckt und die Tatsache, dass ich von CAD keine Ahnung hatte. Aber es gibt tonnenweise Lernvideos im Internet und nach ein paar Videos war mit die Funktionsweise schnell klar. Für den 3D Druck brauchen wir von der CAD Software gerade einmal 20% oder so, also lass dich von den vielen Funktionen nicht abschrecken, die meisten brauchen wir nicht. Bzgl. Zeit, die siehst du wenn du mit dem Mauszeiger unten rechts über den Text "4 Stunden 51 MInuten" drüber fährst, dann sollte das Popup kommen. Bzgl. Haftung, würde ich dir empfehlen von deiner Papierlösung wegzugehen und das ganze einfach mit einem UHU Stick zu machen. Das ist erprobt und funktioniert. Ich denke auch wenn deine Lösung bis dato gut funktioniert hat, macht es wenig Sinn dabei zu bleiben und dafür andere Settings zu suchen um ein brauchbares Ergebnis zu bekommen. Wenn du mit PLA druckst, dann kannst du die Lüftereinstellungen auf Default lassen, das passt immer. Normalerweise druckt er die erste Schicht ohne Lüfter und schaltet dann dazu. Du darfst das aber nicht mit dem 3. Lüfter verwechseln der für die Düse da ist, der läuft immer. Du müsstest eigentlich nach der ersten Schicht hören wir die zusätzlichen Lüfter anlaufen. Aber wie gesagt, vergiss die Lüfter Einstellungen bei PLA, da brauchst du nichts verändern. Du solltest nachdem du mit ein paar Settings gespielt hast, danach immer wieder ein vorgefertigtes Profil auswählen, auch wenn es das gleich ist was du schon hast. Weil dann werden alle Settings die du verändert hast, wieder auf ihre Grundeinstellungen zurückgesetzt und somit musst du nicht schauen was du möglicherweise irrtümlich verstellt hast was du gar nicht mehr haben möchtest.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Du meinst die Matchless? Du wirst meiner Meinung nach keinen Unterschied merken.
  34. 1 point
    Hi All I have a part I wish to print in two colours. It was modelled as one part, then sliced in CAD to create two parts: one for the white and one for the blue. (The white is "part" is actually two discrete bodies, because the blue runs right through.) When I preview the sliced model, each "body" within the model---i.e. the two whites and one blue---is sliced as a self-contained model. This means that each has top and bottom layers. Since I'm printing in the same material, just with a different colour, I can think of no reason why this shouldn't be built as though it were a single model, which would mean that the blue section would have only walls and infill (i.e. no top or bottom layers) and the upper and lower white sections would, respectively, have no bottom and top layers. Is there a setting to remove these intermediate top and bottom layers on a merged model? In other words, to slice merged models as one model? I have the following workaround, but it's a bit cumbersome: Load each section as model (i.e. 3 models one for each "body", rather than one for each colour). Merge the models and adjust orientation. Disable "Automatically drop models to the build plate". Ungroup the models. Use "Per model settings" to manage the top and bottom layers as required. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. Best regards Warren
  35. 1 point
    PLA Spulen behandle ich nicht gesondert. Die stehen bei mir einfach in einem Kasten, damit sie vom Staub geschützt sind, aber sonst nichts. Alles andere, also Nylon, PVA, CPE und dergleichen habe ich entweder in Lock Lock Dosen oder luftdichten Säcken mit Silica Gel drinnen. Manche treiben den Aufwand auch für PLA, ich bin der Meinung das braucht es nicht, zumindest habe ich noch nichts Gegenteilliges festgestellt. Von der von dir verlinkten Polybox habe ich auch 2 Stück, aber die ist nicht zum Trocknen sondern um trockenes Filament trocken zu halten, solange du druckst. Verwende ich nur für Nylon und PVA, da beide sehr empfindlich sind. Alles andere drucke ich normal am Spulenhalter. Bzgl. Filament, ich meide generell sehr günstige Filamente und kaufe eigentlich ausschließlich Ultimaker, Innofil, Colorfabb, FIlamentum, Polymaker. Wenn eine Spule 20 Eur kostet, lasse ich dir Finger davon, vielleicht zu vorsichtig, aber ich will mich nicht später ärgern und mit oben genannten hatte ich noch nie Probleme. (Natürlich gibt es noch viele andere Hersteller die auch gut sind) Bei 3DJake kaufe ich gerne Filamentum, die haben recht nette Farben, sind nicht soo teuer und trotzdem gut. Falls du auf Nummer sicher gehen willst, nimm Colorfabb, etwas teurer, aber dafür beste Qualität. Die haben auch immer Aktionen mit -20% oder -25% Rabatt, da warte ich meist bis es etwas gibt und bestelle dann direkt bei Colorfabb. Ab 4 Spulen oder so, auch Versandkostenfrei. Schlechte Erfahrungen hat ein Kollege von mir mit China Filamenten und Amazon PLA gemacht. Sehr brüchig, schlechtes Druckergebnis. Qualität macht auch aus, dass das Filament einen konstanten Durchmesser hat und nicht zu sehr schwankt. Das würde dann in Über und Unter Extrusion enden, weil der Drucker/Slicer ja davon ausgeht, dass das Filament immer 2.85mm hat und damit weiß er wenn er 10mm Filament vorschiebt, welche Menge aus der Düse kommt. Wenn das Filament aber zwischendurch nur mehr 2.80 oder 2.75 hat, dann ist das zuwenig Material und das kann man dann auch im Druckergebnis sehen. Bzgl. Betthaftung kann ich dir nur sagen, dass wenn es nicht hält, dein Düsenabstand zum Bett zu groß ist. Justiere nochmals dein Druckbett, mit einem Blatt Papier beim justieren und dann sollte es keine Probleme mehr geben. Ich verwende eigentlich immer UHU Stick, auf dem Glas. Da mache ich 2-3 große Striche, die ich dann mit einem feuchten Tuch dann schön dünn verteile. Wenn das getrocknet ist, sieht man den Uhu fast gar nicht mehr. Wenn man sich das sparen will, dann kann ich dir auch den Magigoo Stick empfehlen, der macht das ganze etwas einfacher. Aber generell kannst du dir merken, wenn du Betthaftung mit normalen PLA nicht passt, dann ist es zu 99% der Düsenabstand. Der erste Layer sollte so richtig schön ins Bett hineingedrückt werden. Passiert das nicht, lösen sich die Teile irgendwann (oder gleich). Weiters ist es wichtig, dass das Glas fettfrei ist. Also ich fahre nicht nach jedem Druck mit dem Stick übers Glas, aber man bekommt mit der Zeit ein Gefühl dafür und dann reinige ich das Glas ordentlich und trage dann wieder den Uhu Stick auf. Mache ich so alle 10-20 Drucke, je nach Größe der Objekte. Deine Papierlösung hört sich abendteuerlich an, wahrscheinlich ein ähnlicher Effekt wie Blue Tape und schön, dass es für dich funktioniert, aber wenn du die Ratschläge oben befolgst, dann brauchst du das nicht und hast weniger Aufwand.
  36. 1 point
    This is the (well, one of the multiple reasons) I abandoned cura. I never found a way to print a benchy without the split on that section, all the benchies I tried separated on that layer like if they were printed separately. This never happened with any other slicer, and I don't use jerk and acceleration either actually, or at least I tried both ways before. This along with the bugs that corrupts cura 4.0 machines and profiles at every restart (very common bug since 4.0, I read about it everyday...) made it impossible to use Cura for any purpose. This said.. the split happens on the first "top" layer, that's where the material on the top doesn't bond at all with the one under it, it's not like it partially melts in some points, it just doesn't on any point. As I said, they seem printed separately.
  37. 1 point
    Ich lese oben "Gebraucht", da weis man nie wie der Wartungsstand ist oder hast du darüber Informationen. Weiteres ist schlecht wenn man Nichtmal weis welches material man druckt! Standard Profile sind größtenteils nur für Ultimativer Filamente maßgeschneidert.
  38. 1 point
    Nylon ist sehr empfindlich gegenüber Feuchtigkeit. Wenn die Spule auch nur wenige Stunden "heraussen" liegt kann das Filament schon so viel Feuchtigkeit aufgenommen haben, dass es sich nicht mehr vernünftig drücken lässt. Das Filament sollte daher immer luftdicht aufbewahrt werden, am besten mit Silica Gel Päckchen. Bei längeren Druckjobs eignet sich dann eine Polybox oder ähnliches, damit die Spule nicht an der Luft liegt. Du kannst aber die Spule retten indem du sie im Backofen trocknen lässt. Nicht zu warm, dafür aber für etliche Stunden. Temperatur habe ich jetzt nicht im Kopf aber auf keinen Fall höher als die Bett Temperatur eher 10 Grad weniger. Die Einschlüsse können auch von einem verschmutzten Druckkopf kommen, tippe aber eher auf zu feuchtes Filament. Du solltest aber trotzdem den Kopf mit Hot/Cold Pulls reinigen um sicher zu gehen. Der Filamentsensor kann aus vielen Gründen Fehlalarme zeigen, zur Not einfach einmal abschalten in den Druckereinstellungen, aber wenn das Nylon zu weich geworden ist durch die Luftfeuchte, dann kann es daher auch zu den Meldungen kommen. Nylon ist ein tolles Material aber Luftfeuchtigkeit höher als 30% über wenige Stunden reichen schon aus und das Material hat schon zu viel Feuchtigkeit absorbiert dass es sich nicht mehr richtig drucken lässt.
  39. 1 point
    No, I think when brim is selected, the outer wall have to be printed first, because the brim line connects to it. So, in my opinion, it works as designed.
  40. 1 point
    Hi Daniel, this thingy doesn't seem to be a regular part of the printhead, as listed in the parts list (pages 11 - 14) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf It looks like broken off another part. From shape and size, I'd guess it belongs to the connector of the print head cable (the small tab that locks the connector in it's socket). But that's only a guess. Greetings
  41. 1 point
    Thats very useful, many thanks. I will speak to the reseller and see if they can check the firmware, failing that i think i can live with those bugs whilst you guys get things sorted and use the work arounds temporarily. FYI - I am still very much looking forward to getting my S5, the 2+ has been amazing and I am sure the S5 will be the same (present teething troubles accepted) Cheers
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Believe it or not, my PVA slurry I make on the glass and a brim. I did not have an issue with the material. I was very, very surprised.
  44. 1 point
    Merci beaucoup pour les conseils. En changeant de Printcore l'erreur est partie !
  45. 1 point
    I did at that time of test, also got a x/y shift months after. In the end like I say on the other post I just moved out to duet3d and been enjoying the quality of life of a proper 32bit cpu with trinamic steppers. Happy printer, happy life
  46. 1 point
    Haha. Enjoyed exactly this at Ultimaker, too. Was a great time! 😊
  47. 1 point
    +1 @Brulti en agrandissant la photo on voit nettement une usure très avancée de la buse AA. il fallait un œil de lynx , bien joué
  48. 1 point
    Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  49. 1 point
    The S5 knocked this one out of the park. I made a crane (1 meter long when at full extension). Client was happy and now producing two official copies. Making a couple of changes to make the final models be spot on. Edit: Made with UM White TPLA.
  50. 1 point
    I’ve been working on a proper profile for the Replicator 2 and the 2X. There’s a little bug in the X3G output plugin that needs to be resolved but otherwise it seems to be working reasonably well. This is with single extrusion printing — dual extrusion is definitely possible but will require additional bugs to be fixed. Makerbot recently released file format specifications for their 5th gen toolpath format so it should be possible for someone to write an output plugin for it. Definitely not a high priority for me though.
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