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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for all the time and energy you invest in sharing your messages here, trying to share your perspective with others. I like to think that this all comes from the same place; because we care, because we believe in Ultimaker and because we feel frustrated with the existing situation. This can be read in between the lines of several of the recent messages. Let's not allow this care or frustration to turn our efforts where we try and help each other into a scenario where we are opposite of each other, head to head. From day one Ultimaker has been aware of the bugs introduced by this firmware and after carefully collecting feedback of the exact size and impacts of these bugs our firmware team has been working on a fix. I would be lying if I said it was not taking long, that is painfully true. But merely the metric of time does not imply nothing is being done. Quite the opposite, we do not permit ourselves anything less than a reliable and useful release of new firmware, which takes time to build and test. As I stated previously in one of my messages in this thread; if you have an Ultimaker S5, our sales partner in your local region should be able to roll back to the previous firmware version. The Ultimaker would need to be shipped, but shipping should be covered by warranty. To be sure, check with your reseller in your region. I would only recommend to do this if the issues you're dealing with leave you in an unworkable situation, otherwise, I would recommend to have a little bit more patience until the new firmware is released. For an Ultimaker 3, instructions are shared in an earlier message how you can roll back firmware yourself. You can read the instructions before executing this operation to determine if this looks like something you are capable of doing. If not, I would also not recommend going down this path. We know, the only real good solution would obviously be new firmware. This is being worked on. Now as a final note, this is a thread where we try to help each other with firmware issues. We help to see if any logged issues can be solved by a temporary workaround and by sharing updates about firmware developments. I urge everyone to stay on topic. Off topic posts will be moderated.
  2. 7 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  3. 5 points
    Hi everyone, I'm also from Ultimaker, also not a firmware engineer but I've been busy trying to collect more information about this uncomfortable situation. If you have read through the past 9 or 10 pages you should know we're very much aware of the issues and are working on a fix. In a previous message I explained that the worst thing we could do now is release a fix for the existing firmware which contained other bugs or does not fix what it should. That is why we're thoroughly testing the new version and it takes longer than any of us wants. The outcome should be a version that we can all trust and reliably use. We're working hard to make that real. A previous version we built and tested did not pass our testing entirely so we choose not to release it. We're almost ready to test a newer build version which, if all goes well, we should be able to release rather sooner than later. But first, it needs to be tested as well. No one would benefit from any unnecessary delays and we also want everyone to get back to reliable and satisfactory 3D printing as soon as possible. So as Nallath says, 'We're working on it as best we can'. Hopefully, with a little bit of patience, we'll have a new version out soon. If there are any relevant updates, I'll share with you via this thread. Thank you for your time and patience so far, it is deeply appreciated. And our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused.
  4. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  5. 5 points
    First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more complex. The "Tokah-Cola' bottle was spurred by all the news about beverage companies trying to figure how to make and market CBD infused beverages. So, I thought this would be a nice little drink. These are the actual bottles with food coloring in the water.
  6. 4 points
    @Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:
  7. 4 points
    hello classmates I want to show my recent work, a design and manufacture of the ultimaker 3 closing printer manufactured in the best acrylic, with the maintenance system of the liver pressure and the ionizer, it also has double top opening and touch screen for Control of the application on black background. I hope you like me
  8. 4 points
    Because I'm not a firmware engineer. So yeah, I reply to things I know something about. Which in this case was scanning & sensors. Or would you rather have me not reply at all or give you false / incorrect information? If you want a nice white lie, I'm more than happy to give it, but I assumed that this is not what you guys want / need.
  9. 3 points
    We’ve just released a beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.1, and we’ve added some improvements based on your feedback: - Collapsible panels introduced in the new interface are now completely draggable and can be positioned anywhere on the screen - Badge notifications have been added to the Ultimaker Marketplace so you know when your packages need to be updated - You can now add separate brims to prime towers - We’ve also made some stability fixes with the monitor page Find the update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52884-try-new-3d-printing-software-features-in-ultimaker-cura-41-beta Help us out by downloading today, testing, and logging any feedback in this thread or on GitHub for us to integrate into the stable release. ***** Firmware 5.2 hotfix update! In other news, we released a hotfix firmware that addresses issues encountered in the firmware 5.2 release. We appreciate your patience and understanding while we’ve been investigating the issues that some of you reported. Download the hotfix here: ultimaker.com/firmware
  10. 3 points
    So we have been getting along brilliantly with our 'fleet' of Ultimaker printers (1x UMOriginal, 1x UM2 and 2xUM3) and ArchiCAD. The Custom Cutting Planes function is perfect for extracting model information to create facade studies straight out of ArchiCAD and into Cura with minimal alterations!
  11. 3 points
    A circle is never a real circle in 3D printing, it is built from polygons. So in your design software, you have to search for a setting with which quality you want to export the file as STL. When you choose a lower quality then you see each polygon if you choose a higher setting, then much more polygons are created to describe the circle and then it looks round as it should.
  12. 3 points
    As promised from my side, but nothing new for you here anymore, I got confirmed by a trustable source via mail, that you got heard already and people are trying to fix your problems asap. First of all, before I continue on some statements here, I have to say that I'm pretty much disappointed by the exposure done on the Ultimaker team by some people in this thread. I think the correct place to let someone know of your disappointment is not a public place like this. I could continue investing more of my energy into telling what I think (will do this later), but I want to make it short by saying: This way of blaming the whole company in public next to other community members, hobbyists and end users from the industry, is neither fair nor professional at all! Yes, you can be frustrated and you might be correct in many of your points, but are you really sure that it would have been better with a different manufacturer? Nevertheless, even if you thank the community for their help, blaming on Ultimaker makes me personally feel really bad. I'm really limited in time every day, but reading all the messages here made me getting active on this. Wanted to prevent this situation and wanted to calm you all down, but see that I missed my goal on some people here. Generally, have the opinion that many of you misunderstood the purpose of the forums. Resellers are responsible for local services and satisfaction. The forums are for announcements and a place created by Ultimaker for 3D printing enthusiasts to share their designs, problems and solutions. Yes, it is a place for support, but not too much on industrial level. Before something gets considered as a solution by Ultimaker it must be tested before (which should correspond with your industrial thinking, because a bad solution is like having no solution). Additionally, backward compatibility is never guaranteed to work since it is never (and probably will never be) tested (logically - since testing and doing downgrades now, would eat valuable time of an engineer to fix the actual problem). As I said before, what counts at the moment, is that a solution will be found soon. I'm sure Ultimaker as a company learned a lesson from that. (I'm allowed the say the following since I'm neither employed by Ultimaker nor making money with neither Ultimaker nor someone else right now.) Please, take some of your time, find a quiet and enjoyable place and think about how you communicate here. I know from my experiences with industrial (incl. automotive) companies that life can be stressing, but that's no excuse to be like this. Getting no answer from someone in time doesn't necessarily mean that someone is lazy and not doing her/his best to come back with a (real!) solution. Everyone who knows me can tell for sure that I could continue at this point and end up in a book. In any case, I'm convinced of Ultimaker products and trust their work! Thanks - Thomas Karl Pietrowski
  13. 3 points
    taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  14. 3 points
    solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramètres du menu, j'ai essayé de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncèlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassée durant le print. cela gênait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  15. 2 points
    Hello @nubnubbud. In theory it's just a matter of cloning the cura-build-environment repo and following the instructions to build that and then cloning the cura-build repo and following the instructions to build that. However, I have found that I cannot build a working cura using the master branches of those repos. In my forks of those repos I have my own branches that I work from (mb-linux, mb-windows and mb-osx). I am no longer able to build a working OS X binary but the mb-linux and mb-windows branches work with the current master branches of the cura sources. So, you could try cloning my repos and trying to build from them. See https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build-environment and https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build. Hope this helps.
  16. 2 points
    Bonjour, Je suis dans le même principe: plutôt prévenir que guérir. Graissage (toutes les 100 ou 200h, un peu au pif) des axes X et Y à l'huile type "machine à coudre", et graissage de la vis Z à la graisse téflon. Ensuite, JAMAIS de démontage de buse à froid et TOUJOURS commencer à visser les buses à la main, sans utiliser de clé, pour éviter de baiser les filets. Enfin, soigner les températures afin de ne pas faire cramer les filaments ce qui évite d'avoir à faire des "nettoyages atomiques" (plus très sûr du nom car ça fait plus de six mois que j'en ai pas fait.). Plus un coup d'aspirateur à l'intérieur quand c'est trop cracra. J'ai rien fait d'autre et ma machine affiche 3274h de mise sous tension, 1967h de "print" et 1323m de filament englouti. voili voilou
  17. 2 points
    A prerelease version of the OctoPrint Plugin for Cura 4.1 can be dowloaded here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-05-16T10_29_36Z.curapackage Please drop the downloaded file into a running Cura application window, and restart Cura. Unless issues are reported with this version of the plugin, it should be available as an update on the Marketplace soon.
  18. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  19. 2 points
    I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  20. 2 points
    This an issue of any fdm. At 0.15-0.2 layers the time at that point shortens and it’s a small loop followed by different size infill. It’s easy to understand if you check the gcode preview what happens there. Since there’s no slicer out there that can compensate time va heat va flow, the temperature for that 2 layers changes making the print show a visual defect. Its the same effect that happens when a small island is detached from the model, as soon time and head stays more time on an area the difference from flow/temperature makes a visual defect. The solution is to print everything slower/cooler, that’s why this doesn’t show as much on 0.06-0.1 Also some materials show more this than others just because at different mm3 the filament stays ‘hot’ more time, shifting the color. So as soon the filament prints with delay (at that height suddenly it has 4 jerk slowdowns (max speed to change direction) the filament stays more time on the hotend, so is actually hotter than the filament of the lower layers that does suffer less jerks because the nominal extrusion speed is easier to achieve). Chechk your gcode with a good analyzer like https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and you will see a big slowdown on the affected area
  21. 2 points
    Hi @MarcM and @ben1272, thank you for your message. We were also not happy with the decision to abort the development of this aluminum build plate, and the test results that lead to this decision. While reading through your posts I also noticed what user gr5 mentioned, bed adhesion did not seem to be mentioned in your post as a problem. This is the only element an aluminum bed would have had an effect on. @MarcM, you shouldn't need to rely on those 300+ settings in Ultimaker Cura to get reliable prints. In Cura you should be able to select the material that you use and it should load all appropriate settings specifically for this material. These settings are usually always good, but never perfect. Because it is like a one size fits all approach. That's why the other settings are available, when you have gained some experience and insights, and possibly with the help of our community of 3D printing experts here, you could find the exact settings that work for you. If either of you need any help getting a certain material to stick to your build plate, please let me know. Some materials need an additional adhesive (like a glue stick, or adhesion sheets), and we can help you find the right adhesive for you. You may find that an additional glass plate with an adhesion sheet may work for you after all. If that may not be the case, and an additional glass plate is not really something useful for you, please let me know via DM and we can look into a reasonable and satisfying alternative.
  22. 2 points
    Again; Ultimaker has 400 employees. There is no hidden conspiracy that "holds me back". It's simply that there is not enough time in a day, even if I'd work 16 hours, to keep track of all the things that are going on. So could you pretty, pretty please stop pretending like this is some nefarious thing that is going on (or that is the cause of incompetence). Because it's not. You keep saying that you're doing this to help, but it's doing the exact opposite. To be honest, I don't really believe that you're trying to help. Because it's not the first time I've called you out on this and told you that it's doing the exact opposite. A fair part of what you say is simply not true. There are no distributors of Ultimaker in the US. We have resellers, but that's it. So I'm really wondering who you talked. I know for a fact that delays and releases are always communicated with resellers. But to take some more specific points; 1. You got compensated for this with something of greater value. Also, would you rather have had something that didn't work? Because if that's the case, I'm more than happy to send you the aluminum plate. I'll pay for the shipping myself, but then I don't want to hear you complain about it anymore (Either you not getting it or it not working at all). 2. These issues were fixed within 2 (!!) months. Good luck getting any of that in any other industry. And don't say stupid things like "But it would neve have happened there", because that's a lie and you know it. This can happen everywhere, what matters is how you deal with it. 3. Which firmware updates bit you in the ass? This is the first one right? 4. Promised where exactly? I'm not aware of any such promise. 5. I've not seen any issues with the filament sensor so far. I've got it turned on and working fine. If you look at the forum, you're pretty much the only one with the issue. Now I do get that this sucks (especially with everything combined) but this kinda seems like a fluke. "Has Ultimaker offered prepaid shipping back to them for serving the issues" -> Nonsense. This is something we offer. Because ya know. It's the law. " if I had purchased an Apple product it would have been replaced" -> Same goes for Ultimaker. This is the primary responsibility of the reseller to do this. I understand why they don't want to because it costs them money, but that's what they are paid for. I'm getting the idea that your reseller is putting all the blame with Ultimaker ("Because they entrusted to you that they recommend other printers") whereas the blame is with them. " there are no field service technicians in place such" -> Again not true. All the resellers get mandatory training with regards to repair. So, you want to continue "fighting" this out in public? Because I'm more than able to show you that it's not as you describe it by a long shot.
  23. 2 points
    Thank you very much tinkergnome. Switching between the two firmware UM2 and UM2+ didn't work. But your second hint worked very well. I've installed the printrun, and connected the UM2 via USB. With the Baud rate of 250000 I could communicate with the UM2. As you described I just had to send the Command M502 and M500. It worked perfectly. Afterwards the bed didn't crash anymore into the printing head, and I could work through the first configurations steps. THANKS A LOT!
  24. 2 points
    Getting an obstruction sensor in a single line with that tolerance? You're lucky to get that for below a few hundred $ in parts alone. A line scanner of that quality is about 7k ish.
  25. 2 points
    @Smithy Thanks for joining
  26. 2 points
    Okay I found out that for some reason when I was writing all the details about my pritner as it is in "custom" ones, option for the filament diameter didn't show. Now it was set to 2.85mm while I use 1.75mm. I will try now and see what I get and update here.
  27. 2 points
    Well; after over 4 weeks of sharing the issues, having the Ultimaker Team acknowledge that they are aware of them, and yet still no clear path to resolve the issues nor any element of urgency evidenced; I give a thumbs up to “thopiekar” for entering this arena. Even my USA distributor has remained unable to resolve issues because they tell me that Ultimaker has still not gotten back to them; this after over 3 weeks. If not for the lack of communication from the Ultimaker Team within this forum I likely would not believe them and yet I do, and I also find myself feeling bad for them because they too are dealing with the exact same thing. This situation has gone from not good, to beyond unacceptable. The Ultimaker Team and their distributors direct customers to this forum for support and guidance however, it appears that this forum is also used to shield the world by keeping the proverbial dirty laundry in house; I refer back to an earlier 0.1 percent comment and it not being a sufficient number of affected customers for them to react to on an extreme level. I also recall another customer sharing that he was going to make comments on Facebook , well, maybe it’s time to have the periodicals such as; Make, All3DP, TCT, AllThat3D, etc. print an editorial or an article within their user experience sections? This situation is no longer even marginally acceptable. I will no longer accept having invested roughly $10K USD into a 3D printer along with supplies and spare parts as a tool for my business only to have far less than I was promised and frankly, assured throughout the purchasing process. I asked very specific questions because this is not my first 3D printer. I dealt with and accepted the growing pains as the technology developed always accepting that they were one step away from “hobbiest” 3D printers.Having shared this I have several associates that also own businesses that feel the exact same way as well many within this forum. In retrospect; I that thought that I did my diligence prior to buying into the Ultimaker program haven spoken with several distributors and several folks within the Ultimaker Team. It was during these conversations that I heard hence believed that Ultimaker was setting the 3D printer bar; a bar that other 3D printer manufacturers would have to aspire to oust be left behind. This is why I paid what was considered a premium for Ultimaker’s top of the line 3D printer solicited as designed and thoroughly tested for years prior to being offered for sale to the “businesses” environment. Ultimaker made clear that this was a fully developed 3D printer that could easily be used by the lay person within any office environment. What I have experienced, as well as many many others, is a company that is far from that which they want folks; including their distributors and 3D marketplace to believe. I am very disappointed.
  28. 2 points
    pretty sure the gummy bears feel different about this 🙂
  29. 2 points
    Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  30. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  31. 1 point
    My gut feelings says that if a power issue causes the reboot there probably is no log... About the firmware, I'm running tinkerware, but on mine you find the version in ADVANCED/PREFERENCES/VERSION, may be a bit different in the original firmware, not sure. Can you borrow an UM2 power brick from someone to rule out it's the cause? (where are you located?) The first thing I would do is check all connections on the main board, are all connectors ok, are the screws (depending on how old the machine is) for the bed heater tight? And unrelated, but why do you set filament to 1.75, is the machine converted to 1.75 ?
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    As far as I know, you can do all the steps without publishing your STL to public. So just do it and check where you have the checkbox to make it public or not. If it is really not possible, you can always delete your STL at any time. So do it, download and delete it again.
  34. 1 point
    Hi @Link, thank you for your question. We've had this question before. We realize it does add some additional time to the start of a 3D print but we've condemned it necessary for the success rate and reliability of an Ultimaker S5. Where on an Ultimaker 3 or other smaller sized 3D printer a marginal offset in bed leveling may not be much of a problem because it can be compensated by the thickness of the first layer, the build size with an Ultimaker S5 is significantly larger so a small deviation on one end of the build plate can result in a larger gap on the other side. Added to this is also the size of the manufactured build plates. While we strive for flatness, the larger a build plate gets the more difficult this also gets. Therefore we also considered it to be crucial for an Ultimaker S5 to always level the bed to compensate for any offset that might be there. Whether it might be visible or not. While not always the case, the build plate also allows for large prints which can take multiple hours. On such large prints, an additional minute is neglectable if it ensures a higher success rate. Hope this helps 🙂
  35. 1 point
    Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  36. 1 point
    I have this exact same problem with current firmware. Active leveling set to always works as expected. Leveling set to weekly (my preference) results in print cores which impact and scratch the surface while printing. This is clearly a bug.
  37. 1 point
    I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  38. 1 point
    My 1.75 mm parts are on the way from alibaba. I'll report back when I've had a chance to investigate them.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    No, I think when brim is selected, the outer wall have to be printed first, because the brim line connects to it. So, in my opinion, it works as designed.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Daniel, this thingy doesn't seem to be a regular part of the printhead, as listed in the parts list (pages 11 - 14) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf It looks like broken off another part. From shape and size, I'd guess it belongs to the connector of the print head cable (the small tab that locks the connector in it's socket). But that's only a guess. Greetings
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for your suggestion. I wasn't able to enable the context menu to choose the GPU for Cura but did find an application section which allowed me to add Cura and tell it to use the high end NVIDIA GPU which worked!! Solution: - Right click on the desktop and select NVIDIA Control Panel - Select Manage 3D Settings link - Select Program Settings tab - Select Add and browse to the Cura.exe ... Ex. C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.0\Cura.exe - Select High-Performance NVIDIA processor - Hit Apply
  43. 1 point
    Hello, the pic above is the only modification I did to the head assembly. I just removed all the chips ( black IC's) and all the SMT resistors, then added some jumper wires between the CORE connectors and the main head cable header. The sheet of paper in the pic above shows the pin mapping. It works good ! You can totally 3D print a head etc. I chose to use the OEM head and PCB because of the mechanical design for the Cores to sit properly, raise up and down etc. i.e I did it the expensive way lol.
  44. 1 point
    It depends... During "normal" firmware updates all stored (EEPROM-) settings are not touched or changed. That means, steps/mm will remain on the stored value - whatever it is... And you can't perform a manual factory reset in this stage... As a hack: if you switch back and forth between the firmware variants for UM2 and UM2+, an implicit factory reset is performed. I would connect the printer with the USB cable and a serial console (for example printrun or Octoprint). The start messages show all stored parameters and you can "simulate" a factory reset with the gcode command M502, followed by M500. This can be done at any time and without to complete the "first run wizard".
  45. 1 point
    Birdfeed holder, to attach the bird feeder to the new small tree in our garden, with branches too thin, but with a 40 mm diameter trunk. Fixed with two velcro stripes. Filament is Nylon transparent from Ultimaker, construction with Fusion 360.
  46. 1 point
    I did at that time of test, also got a x/y shift months after. In the end like I say on the other post I just moved out to duet3d and been enjoying the quality of life of a proper 32bit cpu with trinamic steppers. Happy printer, happy life
  47. 1 point
    I am happy with every solution, even if I have to rewrite from hand to daily like now...
  48. 1 point
    Thank you i will try
  49. 1 point
    I'm printing with one material and removed the other material from the printer. I also set the second material in the Cura software to the same material as the printed material. However, your answer was still helpful, as it made me try to deactivate material 2, which did the trick. I hope this bug will be fixed soon. Thanks!
  50. 1 point
    Externes Python Script für Simplify3D / Dual Hallo miteinander, Ich schreibe jetzt schon fast seit einem ¾ Jahr an einen Python Script für Simplify3D für das Dual drucken. Bin jetzt über Zufall drauf gestoßen das man das auch etwas Grafisch (GUI) aufbauen kann, somit bin ich jetzt der Meinung das jeder mit zurechtkommen sollte (wenn fragen sind, Bitte fragt), infolgedessen will ich es jetzt mit der der Gemeinschaft Teilen. Das Script macht folgendes (in Moment): Die „Temp Magic“ wie in Cura, das einzige „Problem/Einschränkung“ ist hier noch wenn die Düse nicht genug Zeit hat komplett abzukühlen hier wird dann schon zu früh geheizt. Wenn die Zeit gar nicht ausreicht, kann man auswählen ob gesenkt werden soll oder die Temperatur gehalten werden soll. Das abwischen am Turm mit Z-Senkung (Drucke mit Marins Dual Lösung mit Düsen Hub) Die Print Area Überwachung da hier die Firmware und Simplify3D versagt, durch den Hotend Offset (M218) geschuldet. Was braucht ihr? Ihr müsst euch Python 2 Installieren. Ich habe derzeit Version 2.7.13. (Hier geht es zum Download für Version 2.7.13) Und ihr braucht mein Dual Profil von S3D. Bzw. ist es nicht das ganze Profil nötig nur ein paar besondere Kennzeichnungen in Register Skripte. Kann also auch für die Mark2 Benutzer verwendet werden. (Wenn Interesse kann ich diese Punkte aufzählen damit ihr eure Script Umschreiben könnt) Ihr müsst drauf Achten das unten bei den Info´s Fensters kein Roter Text auftaucht, also keine Fehler vorhanden ist, den so kann es sein das der gcode unbrauchbar geworden ist. Hier mein FFF-Profil Hier mein Python Script mit ein kleinen Video Würde mich über Feedback freuen! Gerd
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