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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for all the time and energy you invest in sharing your messages here, trying to share your perspective with others. I like to think that this all comes from the same place; because we care, because we believe in Ultimaker and because we feel frustrated with the existing situation. This can be read in between the lines of several of the recent messages. Let's not allow this care or frustration to turn our efforts where we try and help each other into a scenario where we are opposite of each other, head to head. From day one Ultimaker has been aware of the bugs introduced by this firmware and after carefully collecting feedback of the exact size and impacts of these bugs our firmware team has been working on a fix. I would be lying if I said it was not taking long, that is painfully true. But merely the metric of time does not imply nothing is being done. Quite the opposite, we do not permit ourselves anything less than a reliable and useful release of new firmware, which takes time to build and test. As I stated previously in one of my messages in this thread; if you have an Ultimaker S5, our sales partner in your local region should be able to roll back to the previous firmware version. The Ultimaker would need to be shipped, but shipping should be covered by warranty. To be sure, check with your reseller in your region. I would only recommend to do this if the issues you're dealing with leave you in an unworkable situation, otherwise, I would recommend to have a little bit more patience until the new firmware is released. For an Ultimaker 3, instructions are shared in an earlier message how you can roll back firmware yourself. You can read the instructions before executing this operation to determine if this looks like something you are capable of doing. If not, I would also not recommend going down this path. We know, the only real good solution would obviously be new firmware. This is being worked on. Now as a final note, this is a thread where we try to help each other with firmware issues. We help to see if any logged issues can be solved by a temporary workaround and by sharing updates about firmware developments. I urge everyone to stay on topic. Off topic posts will be moderated.
  2. 7 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  3. 5 points
    Hi everyone, I'm also from Ultimaker, also not a firmware engineer but I've been busy trying to collect more information about this uncomfortable situation. If you have read through the past 9 or 10 pages you should know we're very much aware of the issues and are working on a fix. In a previous message I explained that the worst thing we could do now is release a fix for the existing firmware which contained other bugs or does not fix what it should. That is why we're thoroughly testing the new version and it takes longer than any of us wants. The outcome should be a version that we can all trust and reliably use. We're working hard to make that real. A previous version we built and tested did not pass our testing entirely so we choose not to release it. We're almost ready to test a newer build version which, if all goes well, we should be able to release rather sooner than later. But first, it needs to be tested as well. No one would benefit from any unnecessary delays and we also want everyone to get back to reliable and satisfactory 3D printing as soon as possible. So as Nallath says, 'We're working on it as best we can'. Hopefully, with a little bit of patience, we'll have a new version out soon. If there are any relevant updates, I'll share with you via this thread. Thank you for your time and patience so far, it is deeply appreciated. And our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused.
  4. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  5. 5 points
    First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more complex. The "Tokah-Cola' bottle was spurred by all the news about beverage companies trying to figure how to make and market CBD infused beverages. So, I thought this would be a nice little drink. These are the actual bottles with food coloring in the water.
  6. 4 points
    @Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:
  7. 4 points
    hello classmates I want to show my recent work, a design and manufacture of the ultimaker 3 closing printer manufactured in the best acrylic, with the maintenance system of the liver pressure and the ionizer, it also has double top opening and touch screen for Control of the application on black background. I hope you like me
  8. 4 points
    Because I'm not a firmware engineer. So yeah, I reply to things I know something about. Which in this case was scanning & sensors. Or would you rather have me not reply at all or give you false / incorrect information? If you want a nice white lie, I'm more than happy to give it, but I assumed that this is not what you guys want / need.
  9. 3 points
    So we have been getting along brilliantly with our 'fleet' of Ultimaker printers (1x UMOriginal, 1x UM2 and 2xUM3) and ArchiCAD. The Custom Cutting Planes function is perfect for extracting model information to create facade studies straight out of ArchiCAD and into Cura with minimal alterations!
  10. 3 points
    A circle is never a real circle in 3D printing, it is built from polygons. So in your design software, you have to search for a setting with which quality you want to export the file as STL. When you choose a lower quality then you see each polygon if you choose a higher setting, then much more polygons are created to describe the circle and then it looks round as it should.
  11. 3 points
    As promised from my side, but nothing new for you here anymore, I got confirmed by a trustable source via mail, that you got heard already and people are trying to fix your problems asap. First of all, before I continue on some statements here, I have to say that I'm pretty much disappointed by the exposure done on the Ultimaker team by some people in this thread. I think the correct place to let someone know of your disappointment is not a public place like this. I could continue investing more of my energy into telling what I think (will do this later), but I want to make it short by saying: This way of blaming the whole company in public next to other community members, hobbyists and end users from the industry, is neither fair nor professional at all! Yes, you can be frustrated and you might be correct in many of your points, but are you really sure that it would have been better with a different manufacturer? Nevertheless, even if you thank the community for their help, blaming on Ultimaker makes me personally feel really bad. I'm really limited in time every day, but reading all the messages here made me getting active on this. Wanted to prevent this situation and wanted to calm you all down, but see that I missed my goal on some people here. Generally, have the opinion that many of you misunderstood the purpose of the forums. Resellers are responsible for local services and satisfaction. The forums are for announcements and a place created by Ultimaker for 3D printing enthusiasts to share their designs, problems and solutions. Yes, it is a place for support, but not too much on industrial level. Before something gets considered as a solution by Ultimaker it must be tested before (which should correspond with your industrial thinking, because a bad solution is like having no solution). Additionally, backward compatibility is never guaranteed to work since it is never (and probably will never be) tested (logically - since testing and doing downgrades now, would eat valuable time of an engineer to fix the actual problem). As I said before, what counts at the moment, is that a solution will be found soon. I'm sure Ultimaker as a company learned a lesson from that. (I'm allowed the say the following since I'm neither employed by Ultimaker nor making money with neither Ultimaker nor someone else right now.) Please, take some of your time, find a quiet and enjoyable place and think about how you communicate here. I know from my experiences with industrial (incl. automotive) companies that life can be stressing, but that's no excuse to be like this. Getting no answer from someone in time doesn't necessarily mean that someone is lazy and not doing her/his best to come back with a (real!) solution. Everyone who knows me can tell for sure that I could continue at this point and end up in a book. In any case, I'm convinced of Ultimaker products and trust their work! Thanks - Thomas Karl Pietrowski
  12. 3 points
    taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  13. 3 points
    solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramĂštres du menu, j'ai essayĂ© de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncĂšlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassĂ©e durant le print. cela gĂȘnait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  14. 2 points
    We’ve just released a beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.1, and we’ve added some improvements based on your feedback: - Collapsible panels introduced in the new interface are now completely draggable and can be positioned anywhere on the screen - Badge notifications have been added to the Ultimaker Marketplace so you know when your packages need to be updated - You can now add separate brims to prime towers - We’ve also made some stability fixes with the monitor page Find the update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52884-try-new-3d-printing-software-features-in-ultimaker-cura-41-beta Help us out by downloading today, testing, and logging any feedback in this thread or on GitHub for us to integrate into the stable release. ***** Firmware 5.2 hotfix update! In other news, we released a hotfix firmware that addresses issues encountered in the firmware 5.2 release. We appreciate your patience and understanding while we’ve been investigating the issues that some of you reported. Download the hotfix here: ultimaker.com/firmware
  15. 2 points
    Hello @nubnubbud. In theory it's just a matter of cloning the cura-build-environment repo and following the instructions to build that and then cloning the cura-build repo and following the instructions to build that. However, I have found that I cannot build a working cura using the master branches of those repos. In my forks of those repos I have my own branches that I work from (mb-linux, mb-windows and mb-osx). I am no longer able to build a working OS X binary but the mb-linux and mb-windows branches work with the current master branches of the cura sources. So, you could try cloning my repos and trying to build from them. See https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build-environment and https://github.com/smartavionics/cura-build. Hope this helps.
  16. 2 points
    Bonjour, Je suis dans le mĂȘme principe: plutĂŽt prĂ©venir que guĂ©rir. Graissage (toutes les 100 ou 200h, un peu au pif) des axes X et Y Ă  l'huile type "machine Ă  coudre", et graissage de la vis Z Ă  la graisse tĂ©flon. Ensuite, JAMAIS de dĂ©montage de buse Ă  froid et TOUJOURS commencer Ă  visser les buses Ă  la main, sans utiliser de clĂ©, pour Ă©viter de baiser les filets. Enfin, soigner les tempĂ©ratures afin de ne pas faire cramer les filaments ce qui Ă©vite d'avoir Ă  faire des "nettoyages atomiques" (plus trĂšs sĂ»r du nom car ça fait plus de six mois que j'en ai pas fait.). Plus un coup d'aspirateur Ă  l'intĂ©rieur quand c'est trop cracra. J'ai rien fait d'autre et ma machine affiche 3274h de mise sous tension, 1967h de "print" et 1323m de filament englouti. voili voilou
  17. 2 points
    A prerelease version of the OctoPrint Plugin for Cura 4.1 can be dowloaded here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-05-16T10_29_36Z.curapackage Please drop the downloaded file into a running Cura application window, and restart Cura. Unless issues are reported with this version of the plugin, it should be available as an update on the Marketplace soon.
  18. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  19. 2 points
    I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  20. 2 points
    This an issue of any fdm. At 0.15-0.2 layers the time at that point shortens and it’s a small loop followed by different size infill. It’s easy to understand if you check the gcode preview what happens there. Since there’s no slicer out there that can compensate time va heat va flow, the temperature for that 2 layers changes making the print show a visual defect. Its the same effect that happens when a small island is detached from the model, as soon time and head stays more time on an area the difference from flow/temperature makes a visual defect. The solution is to print everything slower/cooler, that’s why this doesn’t show as much on 0.06-0.1 Also some materials show more this than others just because at different mm3 the filament stays ‘hot’ more time, shifting the color. So as soon the filament prints with delay (at that height suddenly it has 4 jerk slowdowns (max speed to change direction) the filament stays more time on the hotend, so is actually hotter than the filament of the lower layers that does suffer less jerks because the nominal extrusion speed is easier to achieve). Chechk your gcode with a good analyzer like https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and you will see a big slowdown on the affected area
  21. 2 points
    Hi @MarcM and @ben1272, thank you for your message. We were also not happy with the decision to abort the development of this aluminum build plate, and the test results that lead to this decision. While reading through your posts I also noticed what user gr5 mentioned, bed adhesion did not seem to be mentioned in your post as a problem. This is the only element an aluminum bed would have had an effect on. @MarcM, you shouldn't need to rely on those 300+ settings in Ultimaker Cura to get reliable prints. In Cura you should be able to select the material that you use and it should load all appropriate settings specifically for this material. These settings are usually always good, but never perfect. Because it is like a one size fits all approach. That's why the other settings are available, when you have gained some experience and insights, and possibly with the help of our community of 3D printing experts here, you could find the exact settings that work for you. If either of you need any help getting a certain material to stick to your build plate, please let me know. Some materials need an additional adhesive (like a glue stick, or adhesion sheets), and we can help you find the right adhesive for you. You may find that an additional glass plate with an adhesion sheet may work for you after all. If that may not be the case, and an additional glass plate is not really something useful for you, please let me know via DM and we can look into a reasonable and satisfying alternative.
  22. 2 points
    Again; Ultimaker has 400 employees. There is no hidden conspiracy that "holds me back". It's simply that there is not enough time in a day, even if I'd work 16 hours, to keep track of all the things that are going on. So could you pretty, pretty please stop pretending like this is some nefarious thing that is going on (or that is the cause of incompetence). Because it's not. You keep saying that you're doing this to help, but it's doing the exact opposite. To be honest, I don't really believe that you're trying to help. Because it's not the first time I've called you out on this and told you that it's doing the exact opposite. A fair part of what you say is simply not true. There are no distributors of Ultimaker in the US. We have resellers, but that's it. So I'm really wondering who you talked. I know for a fact that delays and releases are always communicated with resellers. But to take some more specific points; 1. You got compensated for this with something of greater value. Also, would you rather have had something that didn't work? Because if that's the case, I'm more than happy to send you the aluminum plate. I'll pay for the shipping myself, but then I don't want to hear you complain about it anymore (Either you not getting it or it not working at all). 2. These issues were fixed within 2 (!!) months. Good luck getting any of that in any other industry. And don't say stupid things like "But it would neve have happened there", because that's a lie and you know it. This can happen everywhere, what matters is how you deal with it. 3. Which firmware updates bit you in the ass? This is the first one right? 4. Promised where exactly? I'm not aware of any such promise. 5. I've not seen any issues with the filament sensor so far. I've got it turned on and working fine. If you look at the forum, you're pretty much the only one with the issue. Now I do get that this sucks (especially with everything combined) but this kinda seems like a fluke. "Has Ultimaker offered prepaid shipping back to them for serving the issues" -> Nonsense. This is something we offer. Because ya know. It's the law. " if I had purchased an Apple product it would have been replaced" -> Same goes for Ultimaker. This is the primary responsibility of the reseller to do this. I understand why they don't want to because it costs them money, but that's what they are paid for. I'm getting the idea that your reseller is putting all the blame with Ultimaker ("Because they entrusted to you that they recommend other printers") whereas the blame is with them. " there are no field service technicians in place such" -> Again not true. All the resellers get mandatory training with regards to repair. So, you want to continue "fighting" this out in public? Because I'm more than able to show you that it's not as you describe it by a long shot.
  23. 2 points
    Thank you very much tinkergnome. Switching between the two firmware UM2 and UM2+ didn't work. But your second hint worked very well. I've installed the printrun, and connected the UM2 via USB. With the Baud rate of 250000 I could communicate with the UM2. As you described I just had to send the Command M502 and M500. It worked perfectly. Afterwards the bed didn't crash anymore into the printing head, and I could work through the first configurations steps. THANKS A LOT!
  24. 2 points
    Getting an obstruction sensor in a single line with that tolerance? You're lucky to get that for below a few hundred $ in parts alone. A line scanner of that quality is about 7k ish.
  25. 2 points
    @Smithy Thanks for joining
  26. 2 points
    Okay I found out that for some reason when I was writing all the details about my pritner as it is in "custom" ones, option for the filament diameter didn't show. Now it was set to 2.85mm while I use 1.75mm. I will try now and see what I get and update here.
  27. 2 points
    Well; after over 4 weeks of sharing the issues, having the Ultimaker Team acknowledge that they are aware of them, and yet still no clear path to resolve the issues nor any element of urgency evidenced; I give a thumbs up to “thopiekar” for entering this arena. Even my USA distributor has remained unable to resolve issues because they tell me that Ultimaker has still not gotten back to them; this after over 3 weeks. If not for the lack of communication from the Ultimaker Team within this forum I likely would not believe them and yet I do, and I also find myself feeling bad for them because they too are dealing with the exact same thing. This situation has gone from not good, to beyond unacceptable. The Ultimaker Team and their distributors direct customers to this forum for support and guidance however, it appears that this forum is also used to shield the world by keeping the proverbial dirty laundry in house; I refer back to an earlier 0.1 percent comment and it not being a sufficient number of affected customers for them to react to on an extreme level. I also recall another customer sharing that he was going to make comments on Facebook , well, maybe it’s time to have the periodicals such as; Make, All3DP, TCT, AllThat3D, etc. print an editorial or an article within their user experience sections? This situation is no longer even marginally acceptable. I will no longer accept having invested roughly $10K USD into a 3D printer along with supplies and spare parts as a tool for my business only to have far less than I was promised and frankly, assured throughout the purchasing process. I asked very specific questions because this is not my first 3D printer. I dealt with and accepted the growing pains as the technology developed always accepting that they were one step away from “hobbiest” 3D printers.Having shared this I have several associates that also own businesses that feel the exact same way as well many within this forum. In retrospect; I that thought that I did my diligence prior to buying into the Ultimaker program haven spoken with several distributors and several folks within the Ultimaker Team. It was during these conversations that I heard hence believed that Ultimaker was setting the 3D printer bar; a bar that other 3D printer manufacturers would have to aspire to oust be left behind. This is why I paid what was considered a premium for Ultimaker’s top of the line 3D printer solicited as designed and thoroughly tested for years prior to being offered for sale to the “businesses” environment. Ultimaker made clear that this was a fully developed 3D printer that could easily be used by the lay person within any office environment. What I have experienced, as well as many many others, is a company that is far from that which they want folks; including their distributors and 3D marketplace to believe. I am very disappointed.
  28. 2 points
    pretty sure the gummy bears feel different about this 🙂
  29. 2 points
    Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  30. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy Ăștil y estĂĄ todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  31. 1 point
    Solved... I resoldered the smd-thermistor (PT100) as the guy in the youtube-video and now it seams to be fixed (i am printing now over 2 hour's without problems). While the heat bed was "cold" the PT100 worked fine, but when i gets warm the values (ohm) wets wired (i tested it carefully with a heatgun). Opticly everything looked fine and in "cold" condition i wasn't able to get wrong values (pushing on it from different directions and so on...). so not knowing if it helps i just put two ugly solder-clumps on both sides of the PT100 and from that point on i wasn't able to reproduce the problem.
  32. 1 point
    An intermediate update: There are multiple problems with the WiFi that all result in people reporting the WiFi as failing, but have different underlying causes. For the moment we are focusing on the most pressing issue where the WiFi can not be enabled at all, in the system log this manifests itself by a message "Cannot power cycle wifi". This was present in both logs sent to me. We verified over a 100 printers (S5 and UM3) in the Ultimaker office but none showed the error which makes it difficult to fix this problem. One clue we have is from a tester who reported that the bug is difficult to reproduce, but once he had it on a printer and then it remained for at least 5 reboots. We want to remove a software component that tries to restore the WiFi power state after a reboot, we don't use this feature but it might interfere with our operations (and less software is better). It just turns out that this software component is integrated in Linux and difficult to disable.
  33. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Finally I fixed the problem. Here is why its happening..
  34. 1 point
    Je suis plutĂŽt callĂ© en imprimantes 3D mais la pataphysique et l'entropie la je suis perdu 🙂 Sinon pour ce genre de vague c'est souvent du au Z qu'il faut nettoyer et/ou regraisser mais le problĂšme est rĂ©solu donc c'est cool 🙂 Perso niveau entretien je suis pas des plus appliquĂ© et ça fonctionne bien en gĂ©nĂ©ral. Je garde la machine en bon Ă©tat, j'essaie de pas trop la mal traiter. J'huile les axes de temps en temps et je nettoie l'intĂ©rieur de la machine quand il faut. Le rythme de maintenance est fort variable en fonction de comment on (mal)traite sa machine 🙂
  35. 1 point
    HiHo Filmpalast Wenn du mit PLA Druckst kannst du einfach auf die saubere Glasplatte drucken, das haftet sehr gut. Du könntest die Anzahl der Wandlinien auf 2 Reduzieren, das wĂŒrde dir zeit sparen. Kann aber je nach dem dazu fĂŒhren, dass du Artefakte vom Infill bekommst. Welchen DĂŒsendurchmesser verwendest du denn? Ich kann dem @UbuntuBirdy nur zustimmen, druck lieber Langsam und nimm die maximalen Vorteile dadurch mit. - Weniger Druckerverschleiss - Schönerer Teile - Weniger Fehler Denn du wirst bald feststellen, dass nicht die Teile das schöne sind, sondern das selber machen ^^. Das musste ich auch erst lernen. Ich verwende fĂŒr meine Modelle meistens Cinema4D, das ist nicht explizit dafĂŒr gedacht. Deswegen fĂŒr dich ehr ungeeignet, auch wenn es sehr intuitiv ist. GrĂŒsse zpm3atlantis
  36. 1 point
    Hi, as some/most of you may have realized a new stable firmware has been released. As @ultiarjan just linked to, you can find an overview of the contents of this new firmware via that link. For your convenience I'll post some of it below: Firmware 5.2.11 is a fix release to correct issues reported in firmware 5.2.8. This fix will address the issues discussed below: Update via USB. Fixed an issue where printers without a network connection couldn’t update to the .swu file system. Users that tried to upgrade to firmware 5.2.8 via USB would get stuck on the stepping stone version due to a mismatch between the onboard time stamp of the printer, which would default to standard Linux (UNIX) time, and the timestamp of the downloaded file. XY calibration. Fixed an issue which prevented the XY calibration procedure from extruding properly. All printers running firmware 5.2.8 would initiate the XY calibration procedure with filament in a retracted state. This meant that the procedure would finish its sequence without extruding correctly. Firmware 5.2.11 ensures that filament is fully primed before initiating XY calibration. Screen issues. Fixed an issue where the screen on the Ultimaker 3 shifted or rotated. Firmware 5.2.11 included a redundant feature that was interacting with the Linux kernel in an unexpected way, leading to shifted or rotating screens. This feature has been completely removed in firmware 5.2.11. Third-party materials. Abrasive materials have been removed from the Ultimaker 3 material selection menu, as printing abrasive materials will damage the Ultimaker 3 feeder wheel. @Link, you should be able to update your firmware fine if you follow the instructions on your Ultimaker. You will first be taken to a 'stepping stone' firmware update, and consequently, install the latest new version. And congratulations with your Ultimaker! 🙂
  37. 1 point
    There are at least two known problems with the filament retraction at the end of a print. These problems have been fixed in a beta-release but did not undergo the full test procedure. I'm sad to say that the UM2 development is in an 'end of life' state which means only huge bugs will be fixed. The mentioned beta-release is there for almost a year but gets no priority. I'm looking for people to give this beta-release a try. So far there has been little response, but the reponse I did get was positive. With more positive results from beta-testers this release can be made into an official release. The UM2+ firmware can be found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/tree/UM2.1_JarJar/releases/beta And the release notes: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/commit/f6e69344c00d7f300dace730990652ba614a2105 Please give this a try on one of your printers if your model is a UM2+. You can upload the firmware through Cura. Reverting to the original firmware is always possible, the original firmware is provided with Cura. Report your test results back here. Without positive reports I can't get the momentum for releasing this update.
  38. 1 point
    I've printed Novamid 1030 but not 1070. But I've printed probably 7 different types of nylon filament and they are mostly the same. However 1070 is much stiffer than most filaments so it will be much more difficult where "warping on corners" is concerned. First of all 60C is crazy. Stupid. Bad. 100C will be much better. The recommended temp I found on the internet for Novamid 1070 is 100C to 120C. Nylon is very different from PLA in a few ways - first of all it gets softer very gradually as it gets warmer so at 80C it will be more flexible than at 60C and at 120C it will be getting very flexible but it will always bend back. In comparison, PLA gets like clay as it gets warmer - if you deflect it when it is above 52C it will stick with it's new position. LIke if you poke clay. But Nylon when it's at these temps will bounce back. Like rubber. Anyway make sure you set the bed to 100C. I recommend cutting a 10cm length, bend it a few times in your hand and remember what it feels like, then place it on the bed at 100C for 20 seconds, then pick it up and bend it again. Sometimes touching your filaments at temps of 60C, 80C and 100C (and 110C for ABS) can be enlightening. Try bending it enough so it will permanently in a new shape. I don't think that will happen at temps below 110C for Nylon. It's important to use lots of brim in cura. When I print Nylon I coat the glass with a very thin layer of PVA. You should use some kind of surface treatment like 3DLAC or hairspray or woodglue mixed with water or gluestick spread on the glass with a wet tissue (to remove 90% of it and to spread it extra thin). Don't just use gluestick by itself without spreading it super thin. However, one time when I printed UM Nylon with that thin layer of gluestick it stuck too well and removed a sliver of glass from my S5 print bed. UM recommends a thick layer of gluestick to protect the glass. So maybe start with that and if it's still warping then do a thin layer of gluestick. I have a video that shows how I do PVA - 3 different methods. If you use my methods parts will stick so well you will be chipping the glass occasionally. It's worth it. My glass budget is tiny compared to my filament budget.
  39. 1 point
    Voila le fichier modifié Modif faites support horizontal expansion ramené a 0 support overhang angle ramené de 70 a 50 CCR10S_1909476746_CCR10S_xctrack_vario-xctrack_inf.3mf
  40. 1 point
    Wow. First check that the gantry is square. It just takes a few seconds. Push the head around with your hands and put it in the center and look down to see if the rods passing through the head are as visibly crooked as these circles. Then push the head to the 4 sides and make sure the side blocks reach the same end position and at the same time. For example if you push the head to the center rear position as far as it goes - the left and right slider blocks should both be all the way back. Sometimes one block is clearly not as far back because one belt or the other slipped a tooth. This kind of thing is usually caused by belt pulleys that are not drilled in the center but if so the pattern would be good for a few cm and then bad for a few cm and I don't see that. A large amount of head play might cause this. Gently push the head around without enough force to move the steppers. How far does the nozzle move n X and Y without the head/steppers moving? Printing slower might fix this. I'd try printing very slow - say 25mm/sec - just to see if that fixes the problem. Then you can gradually increase the speed on each layer in the TUNE menu until the problem returns.
  41. 1 point
    PLA Spulen behandle ich nicht gesondert. Die stehen bei mir einfach in einem Kasten, damit sie vom Staub geschĂŒtzt sind, aber sonst nichts. Alles andere, also Nylon, PVA, CPE und dergleichen habe ich entweder in Lock Lock Dosen oder luftdichten SĂ€cken mit Silica Gel drinnen. Manche treiben den Aufwand auch fĂŒr PLA, ich bin der Meinung das braucht es nicht, zumindest habe ich noch nichts Gegenteilliges festgestellt. Von der von dir verlinkten Polybox habe ich auch 2 StĂŒck, aber die ist nicht zum Trocknen sondern um trockenes Filament trocken zu halten, solange du druckst. Verwende ich nur fĂŒr Nylon und PVA, da beide sehr empfindlich sind. Alles andere drucke ich normal am Spulenhalter. Bzgl. Filament, ich meide generell sehr gĂŒnstige Filamente und kaufe eigentlich ausschließlich Ultimaker, Innofil, Colorfabb, FIlamentum, Polymaker. Wenn eine Spule 20 Eur kostet, lasse ich dir Finger davon, vielleicht zu vorsichtig, aber ich will mich nicht spĂ€ter Ă€rgern und mit oben genannten hatte ich noch nie Probleme. (NatĂŒrlich gibt es noch viele andere Hersteller die auch gut sind) Bei 3DJake kaufe ich gerne Filamentum, die haben recht nette Farben, sind nicht soo teuer und trotzdem gut. Falls du auf Nummer sicher gehen willst, nimm Colorfabb, etwas teurer, aber dafĂŒr beste QualitĂ€t. Die haben auch immer Aktionen mit -20% oder -25% Rabatt, da warte ich meist bis es etwas gibt und bestelle dann direkt bei Colorfabb. Ab 4 Spulen oder so, auch Versandkostenfrei. Schlechte Erfahrungen hat ein Kollege von mir mit China Filamenten und Amazon PLA gemacht. Sehr brĂŒchig, schlechtes Druckergebnis. QualitĂ€t macht auch aus, dass das Filament einen konstanten Durchmesser hat und nicht zu sehr schwankt. Das wĂŒrde dann in Über und Unter Extrusion enden, weil der Drucker/Slicer ja davon ausgeht, dass das Filament immer 2.85mm hat und damit weiß er wenn er 10mm Filament vorschiebt, welche Menge aus der DĂŒse kommt. Wenn das Filament aber zwischendurch nur mehr 2.80 oder 2.75 hat, dann ist das zuwenig Material und das kann man dann auch im Druckergebnis sehen. Bzgl. Betthaftung kann ich dir nur sagen, dass wenn es nicht hĂ€lt, dein DĂŒsenabstand zum Bett zu groß ist. Justiere nochmals dein Druckbett, mit einem Blatt Papier beim justieren und dann sollte es keine Probleme mehr geben. Ich verwende eigentlich immer UHU Stick, auf dem Glas. Da mache ich 2-3 große Striche, die ich dann mit einem feuchten Tuch dann schön dĂŒnn verteile. Wenn das getrocknet ist, sieht man den Uhu fast gar nicht mehr. Wenn man sich das sparen will, dann kann ich dir auch den Magigoo Stick empfehlen, der macht das ganze etwas einfacher. Aber generell kannst du dir merken, wenn du Betthaftung mit normalen PLA nicht passt, dann ist es zu 99% der DĂŒsenabstand. Der erste Layer sollte so richtig schön ins Bett hineingedrĂŒckt werden. Passiert das nicht, lösen sich die Teile irgendwann (oder gleich). Weiters ist es wichtig, dass das Glas fettfrei ist. Also ich fahre nicht nach jedem Druck mit dem Stick ĂŒbers Glas, aber man bekommt mit der Zeit ein GefĂŒhl dafĂŒr und dann reinige ich das Glas ordentlich und trage dann wieder den Uhu Stick auf. Mache ich so alle 10-20 Drucke, je nach GrĂ¶ĂŸe der Objekte. Deine Papierlösung hört sich abendteuerlich an, wahrscheinlich ein Ă€hnlicher Effekt wie Blue Tape und schön, dass es fĂŒr dich funktioniert, aber wenn du die RatschlĂ€ge oben befolgst, dann brauchst du das nicht und hast weniger Aufwand.
  42. 1 point
    This is the (well, one of the multiple reasons) I abandoned cura. I never found a way to print a benchy without the split on that section, all the benchies I tried separated on that layer like if they were printed separately. This never happened with any other slicer, and I don't use jerk and acceleration either actually, or at least I tried both ways before. This along with the bugs that corrupts cura 4.0 machines and profiles at every restart (very common bug since 4.0, I read about it everyday...) made it impossible to use Cura for any purpose. This said.. the split happens on the first "top" layer, that's where the material on the top doesn't bond at all with the one under it, it's not like it partially melts in some points, it just doesn't on any point. As I said, they seem printed separately.
  43. 1 point
    Die VerfĂ€rbungen könnten aber auch Verbrennungen sein... Passiert, wenn sich Material an der DĂŒseninnenseite an der Wand ablagert. Das "verbrennt" dann mit der Zeit und löst sich. FĂŒr solche Materialien habe ich einen Filamenttrockner. Ist im Prinzip eigentlich nichts anderes wie ein Dörrautomat, den z.b. Pilzsammler gern verwenden, nur das die halt keine Temperatur/Zeit- Tabelle dabei haben fĂŒr die diversen Kunststoffe... Gruß, Digibike
  44. 1 point
    Hi Daniel, this thingy doesn't seem to be a regular part of the printhead, as listed in the parts list (pages 11 - 14) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf It looks like broken off another part. From shape and size, I'd guess it belongs to the connector of the print head cable (the small tab that locks the connector in it's socket). But that's only a guess. Greetings
  45. 1 point
    Hello, I need to support @Smithy here. Our community is a great place for help and even a better place to learn more about your Ultimaker and how to get the most out of it. We have many expert users who are able to help other users with tips on how to improve their prints or how to overcome issues if you would ever run into any. And distributors and resellers should rightfully so direct customers here to learn more and become 3D printing experts themselves. But it is not an official technical support platform. A lot of the support and help you may find here is 'peer to peer support'. Meaning, from one user to another. Which is of great value, which comes from years of experience and usually comes fast. But it is an important differentiator from an 'official support platform' from trained Ultimaker staff. Even though myself and other Ultimaker team members are active in this community, is because we also gain great insights from our users here and we're happy to help where we can. It is also very valuable when we release a new Cura to be in direct connection with our users. But it is our resellers and distributors and in particular, the party who sold you your device, who carries the responsibility to provide you with the technical support you need and deserve. And they are also trained for this purpose. The above mentioned bug is indeed a rare artifact from the latest firmware update. A fix will be included in the build we're working on. I would too recommend to get in touch with your reseller for advice on how to proceed. Good luck!
  46. 1 point
    Kurze AufklĂ€rung: Es wird nicht in der Bewegung gedruckt sonder es wird kein retract ausgefĂŒhrt und dadurch lĂ€uft etwas Material raus. Eine einfache Möglichkeit dies zu verhindern wĂ€re das Combing umzuschalten (z.B. auf "Innerhalb der FĂŒllung"). Ein Problem könnte sein, da es auf den ganzen Teil angewendet wird, entstehen mehr/viele Retracts die andere Probleme mit sich bringen können. Gruß Gerd
  47. 1 point
    Ta commande et juste. je reçois la mĂȘme sortie. j'ai rĂ©solue mon problĂšme. Ce qui ce passer s'est que Cura utilise la sorti 2 donc en utilisant la sortie standard il ni avait rien. Avec ce code ça fonction presque comme je veux, du moin sa retourne les rĂ©sultat dans un fichier. from os import popen, system CheminSortie = r'"C:\Users\Ivain\Desktop\testeretour console\Sortie.gcode"' CheminFichier = r'"C:\Users\Ivain\Desktop\testeretour console\Box.stl"' Profile = r'"D:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.0\resources\definitions\tam.def.json"' system(f"CuraEngine slice -v -j {Profile} -o {CheminSortie} -l {CheminFichier} 2> SortieTeste.txt") le fait de remplacer > par 2> lui indique qu'il doit utiliser cette sortie je te joint le fichier retourner. donc si tu passe cette commande a NodeJs tu auras un fichier contenant la sortie. Reste plus qua trouver un moyen de faire la mĂȘme chose mais dans une variable pour la rĂ©cupĂ©rer dans no langage respectifs. CuraEngine slice -v -j <tonprofile> -o <Fichierdesortie> -l <lestl> 2> SortieTeste.txt PS: le fichier box et un cube de 20 mm Teste3.3mf
  48. 1 point
    Looks nice and clean, my only 'but' is that the heat craw will go up affecting the small boards and the printed part. The smothers easily get to 60-70C so you better print that on something else than pla or that enclosure will deform just like the plastic covers they sell with them. The other issue of the smoothers is the torque is reduced, so if you get a x/y slipping change the travel speed for non printing moves. I also observed a lot of torque lost on the extruder, so check that if you print at the limit or raise the hotend temperature to compensate the torque. For reference
  49. 1 point
    Visiblement c'est une erreur de communication dans la tĂȘte: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23154-there-is-a-communication-error-with-the-print-head Il faut contacter le revendeur. VĂ©rifie si le cable est ok, il me semble que ça peut venir de la
  50. 1 point
    I just looked at some of the design files for this - really good work. Quite impressive. Instructions for the feeder are fantastic. There are some clever innovations in this. I love that you included a bom with links to where to get the parts. This just seems very thorough. I see also that you included the firmware both compiled and git source code (so one can see the changes you had to make). Very impressive.
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