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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  2. 4 points
    Hi, after many hours and prototypes my RC Mini Jet Boat is ready and online. You could find the files as download on https://cults3d.com/en/users/jtronics Follow us on Cults3d and on Youtube to get notice of our New Uploads!
  3. 3 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  4. 3 points
    Hi guys! Happy to share my new work! I have modeled and printed a plaster figure prototype, from which I will be able to take off the uniform and cast copies for my big architecture project! In order to do this, I had scanned the original plaster figure using the 3D scanner. Then I corrected the model, removed all the chips and flaws of the original and printed it out using white PLA SnowFlake plastic on a Ultimaker 3D printer. Layer thickness 0.1 mm. The photo on the left is the original, and on the right you can see the printed model. What do you think about this work? Any comments?
  5. 3 points
    Hi, I have been busy over the last 16 months upgrading the foundry equipment and have made a few mods to my Ultimaker original. I would very much like to hear from people that have tried metal casting 3d prints, ether from sand moulds or lost PLA. I hope you enjoy the video. Many thanks.
  6. 2 points
    Ultimaker Cura 4.2 beta is now available. Check out the blog for some feature highlights, or download it now to discover what’s new. During the beta phase, user feedback is really valuable to us, and our developers are on hand to answer any queries you have. Feel free to tell us what you like, and please report any bugs you encounter so that they can stabilize the next release. We’ve hosted the beta version on GitHub for now. This is because our product pages have just switched over to a new platform. We’re working to reimplement beta hosting on the product page eventually. Reporting bugs Bugs (that are clearly bugs) are best posted on our GitHub issues page. Talking about "This isn't doing what I want it to do" is perfectly okay in the forum, right here. When reporting a bug, please fill in the issue template and provide logs. We hope you enjoy this release!
  7. 2 points
    Hi, the part-numbers are 1967 (the worn-out half on the photo) and 1968. One also realy useful solution would be this: http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod Works pretty well for me. Regards
  8. 2 points
    With Cura 4.2 beta available now, it would help me if you tested this version of the sidebar gui plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-07-18T12_34_52Z.curapackage Download the file and drop it onto a running Cura 4.2 application window. Then restart Cura and it should have the sidebar gui.
  9. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  10. 2 points
    The plugin is now available in the Marketplace. Quite a bit more work needed to be put in this plugin, to get the Print settings in the Material preferences to accept valid values for additional settings. In fact, the plugin now replaces the whole Materials pane of the preferences with a "fixed" version. There is a cosmetic sideeffect to this: the print settings tab now uses the Cura theme, ie if you use a dark theme for Cura, that part of the preferences will now also display using dark theming. I hope you find this plugin useful.
  11. 2 points
    Hi guys! I'd like to share my new work! I printed a batch of parts with white PLA and assembled them into several scale models of houses. I will use these models in visual planning of residential development. For this job, I used a Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer.
  12. 2 points
    Ultimaker only provides profiles for officially supported combinations, which is pretty limited, but you can use the CC0.6 perfectly on the Ultimaker 3 , or with many non supported materials. The easiest is usually to select a 0.4 profile (with the AA0.4 selected as core) for the material you want to use, and change the line width to 0.6 (or just below 0.6 as Ultimaker would do it), depending on the material and speed you may also need to slightly change the printing temperature and do a few test prints, but usually the 0.4 profile is a pretty good starting point. Be aware that if you want to use the CC0.6 in the Ultimaker 3 , that the feeder is not made for abrasive materials and may wear out. You can solve this f.e. by upgrading to bondtech feeders.
  13. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  14. 2 points
    CreawsomeMod is currently being integrated into what will become Cura 4.2. Edit: thanks for the likes, but the work has being done by Eric Ptak and @ghostkeeper here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/5961
  15. 2 points
    Connect your printer with a network cable directly to a computer. If that computer is not too old the network card should be able to act as some kind of DHCP server together with the OS so your printer should be able to obtain an IP address and most important a time stamp. That time stamp will allow the firmware update to work again properly. Don't worry for future updates; Ultimaker has skipped that check again. As for the infinite time to set up the Wifi, I had that once on my UM3. Factory reset did not fix it so I had to recover the firmware. You can find instructions here:
  16. 2 points
    I suspect there is a problem in reading the data from the print core. Try switching your two print cores. Is the error then in the same slot, or does the error move to the other slot? If the error remains in the same slot then the problem is with the connection points in the slot being dirty. Clean those If the error moves to the other slot, then try cleaning the print core's contact points. When the above doesn't fix it, then please try to get more data for us to investigate this. When you start a print and it complains about the nozzle size mismatch, then I would like to see the debugging data that's normally hidden: 1) Is your printer in developer mode? The just scroll down the error message on the screen a bit more and post a photo of the data there. 2) When your printer isn't in developer mode, open a web browser and surf to the printer's home page. Select there 'Event Log' and copy / paste the error message related to the print cores not matching. The web page address will be something like:
  17. 2 points
    @yttrium you are not the first/only one expecting this from Autodesk - I can say that this is the main reason this blog is here, that so much time has passed and no one click solution was provided. I started printing about 4 years ago and at that time Revit was still my no. 1 software to go to - I soon changed to Rhino and became more confident in using that software and all it’s visual programing plug-ins to handle massive amount of revit data in regards to 3D printing — the results are that working with revit is time consuming in regards to 3d printing and it will be a never ending story until someone does something about it. This blog is indeed a little light in algoritms since its purpose was to be accesible to everyone , not only people with know how in more than one software. With this being said I would just like to mention again - you are not the only one with these wishes - we, all revit users ,want the same thing in regards to this topic.
  18. 2 points
    Yes, install Aldo's excellent setting visibility saver plugin and then you can simply reload your settings after loading a project.
  19. 2 points
    It did it on every print. I actually found the solution, however. I posted for advice before taking the entire thing apart for a thorough cleaning, just in case I needed to replace something while it was apart. During disassembly, I noticed a couple of things. 1. The Z rods had a bit of dirty build up in the recesses. Took them to the wire wheel and scrubbed them with alcohol. 2. The top carriage that loosely holds the Z rod in place wasn't centered. It's designed to allow plenty of front to back movement, but not enough left to right movement. With the nozzle close to the bed, I loosened the carriage at the top of the Z rod and allowed it to center itself before re-tightening. Put it all back together and first two prints are now perfect.
  20. 2 points
    My personal viewpoint on software - any software - is to keep using it as long as it is stable and I am happy with it. I can do everything I want with an old MS Office 2000, so if I wouldn't need to be compatible with others, I would still be using that since I like that way more than the horrible "Ribbon" mess from Office 2007 onwards. Idem for a very old image editing program and a couple of others. I keep using old hammers and screwdrivers too. :-) Only things like VLC and browsers need to be updated to get the best performance (video formats) and best page display and security (browsers). Concerning slicers, it might be a good idea to keep a couple of stable old versions on your computer, and install a newer version parallel to it, if you need some of the latest features for some prints. Then you have the latest stuff, plus a fallback. Especially if you have a printer with dual nozzle, the area where the most progress is. But that is just my personal preference, based on my needs. Feel free to see things differently.
  21. 2 points
    I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else. The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down. For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.
  22. 1 point
    Modified from a previous design published by others. I have shortened and broadened the retainer clip, so that it wouldn't crash against the glass doors when printing an object that reaches to the very front of the build plate. Note that this design is specific to the S5. I strongly advise to always use this retainer clip. I have completely destroyed a printhead because the front disengaged from its wimpy little magnets and crashed into the model (fortunately UM accepted that this was a warranty issue). https://grabcad.com/library/1033247
  23. 1 point
    Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Genau an die Stelle kam ich sehr schlecht dran, weil das richtige Werkzeug fehlte. Mit einer Nagelschere war es aber möglich, das Material an der Stelle zu schwächen und das Material oben heraus zu ziehen. Dazu musste der Zuführungsschlauch oben am Druckkopfhalter ab. Das ging erst nicht, weil das eingelegte Material es verhindert hat. Habe erst den Schlauch hinten am Gerät gelöst. Dazu erst weißen Plastikunterleger herausziehen. Dann gleichzeitig Schlaucheinlaufhülse eindrücken und Zuführungsentriegelung hochdrücken. Dann kann man den Schlauch hinten herausziehen. Dann den Schlauch oben entfernen und man kann das Material direkt oben anfassen. Auch mit einem zweiten Printcore kam die gleiche Fehlermeldung. Habe dann die Kontakte auf der Platine des Druckkopfhalters gereinigt, die 4 Schrauben oben auf dem Druckkopfhalter gelöst und das weiße Systemkabel gelöst und wieder eingesteckt. Es funktioniert wieder. Wichtig wenn man den Stecker aus der Platine zieht: Die Verriegelung des Steckers wird gelöst, wenn man die Verriegelung oben zum Stecker hin drückt, nicht andersherum. Viele Grüße Stefan
  24. 1 point
    I loaded this in Cura and it is huge. Then I loaded it in Fusion 360 and it seems like it is about 37 meters from top-to-top, and about 8 meters across each of the narrow sections. The slide pieces are about 21 mm thick. To shrink 37 meters to a 200mm wide build plate, that is 1/185th scale. That is also going to scale the thickness of the sheets making them about 0.12 mm thick. This is too thin to print. I would suggest pre-scaling it in whatever modelling tool you are using, so that it will fit in the build volume. Then adjust the thicknesses so that they are at least 1mm at that overall smaller scale (and that's assuming you've got a 0.4mm nozzle.
  25. 1 point
    Ich hab vor zwei Tagen auf die neuste Firmware an meinem UM3E upgedatet. Da wird dann das Auto Leveling wieder automatisch eingeschalten. Hat dann, komischerweise, trotz DDP funktioniert. Davor ging es nie. Und wie bei dir Digibike, hat sich die Nozzle immer in die DDP gebohrt. Hab's jetzt aber wieder abgeschalten, da ich grad mit nem Steelsheet arbeite.
  26. 1 point
    You should be able to see this in the layer-view in Cura. But you always have the option to design your own custom supports in CAD, and switch off automatically generated supports. Then you have full freedom, and you can design-in features to make removal of the supports easier, or to increase stability, or whatever you want. See the pink and orange supports here, which extend from the model so I can grab them with pliers. This is a very small model, too small to get in with a knife and cut the supports loose. I also provided an additional baseplate to make the support more stable, so it is not knocked over due to its long overhang. Same in red-cyan 3D, which gives better depth-perception:
  27. 1 point
    Wenn du eine exakte Farbe benötigst, kann ich nur Colorfabb Color on Demand empfehlen. Die machen dir jede RAL oder Pantone Farbe die du willst, schicken dir vorab ein Muster und Mindestabnahme sind nur 3kg bei einer neuen Farbe die sie noch nicht im Programm haben.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I don't think there is a way to do this. You could add a feature request to github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues bugs and feature requests are paid more attention to over on github versus here in the forum. Did you know you can hold down the Shift key and get down to 1 degree rotations? Also if you are printing the same part often then it's probably worth it to rotate it in CAD before creating the STL. Occasionally I do this for parts that I print dozens of. Also if you are rotating the same part the same rotation 10 times, you can rotate it once and then do multiply *after* the rotation and cura remembers the rotation. Probably none of these tricks help you but maybe/hopefully one will.
  30. 1 point
    Nur zur Info: die fehlerhaften Flächen sehen so aus, rot markiert.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    A short follow up: Added the @ardrift 's patch to my code, announced a new version 0.3.2 and submitted the package to Ultimaker. Enjoy your weekend! 🙂
  33. 1 point
    I did end up ordering genuine UM parts from a local shop, because of delivery time and warranty, and of course as @kirby207 said quality control etc. The extra cost however was closer to 60$ for the pair though... I also ordered some new belts and the extrusion upgrade pack while I was at it so my machine is really getting a lot of attention 😁
  34. 1 point
    Hi marcottt no at the moment, I come back to one extruder because cyclops was a crazy of jams and I couldn`t setup well. Regards Gustavo https://www.thingiverse.com/danzig483/about
  35. 1 point
    You usually see swelling like that when your front fan isn't running strongly enough (or at all). It can get tiny filament hairs wrapped around it that choke the fan motor. Have you cleaned the fan with tweezers recently? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52501-check-for-residue-in-the-front-fan-of-the-print-head
  36. 1 point
    Kein Problem und viel Erfolg! Selten ist etwas im 3D Druck simpel. Es sei den, man hat keine großen "Erwartungen" und freut sich, wenn er was "Hinkleckst". Willst du es etwas genauer, dann mußt auch du genauer/sorgfältiger sein. Die Düse ist nunmal ein mechanisches Loch mit einer bestimmten Geometrie und daraus resultieren gewisse Strömungsverhalten. Dazu kommen noch Herstellungstoleranzen. Klar kann ich mit EW in "zwingen" die und die "Raupenbreite" zu realisieren, aber klar ist dann auch, wenn es an Grenzen geht, sehr schnell schluss ist, wo er eigentlich noch einiges "Rausholen" könnte... Cura geht da tendenziell etwas unter Düsendurchmesser, Simplify etwas über, aber ermittelt ist beides nicht und taugt zum Drucken, aber wunder darf man da nicht erwarten - genauso wenig, wenn man stupide 1,75 bzw. 2,85 beim Diameter einträgt. Wobei dann auch schon deutlich gibt, woran (mitunter) gutes Material erkennt: Toleranzen haben alle, aber wirklich gute haben kaum Schwankungen, d.h., wenn sie 2,83 haben, dann die ganze Rolle hindurch und Schwanken da im Tausendstel etwas. Schlechte "Schwingen" regelrecht um ein Maß herum - mal 2,83, dann wieder 2,86 usw.. Da kann man zwar den Durchschnitt angeben, aber das kann man sich dann selbst ausrechnen, für was das taugt: große Flächen und grobe Funktionsteile. Wenn es Präzise sein soll - im Rahmen dessen, was FDM hergibt - wird man da schnell Frustriert sein. Logisch, wenn die Materialversorgung so unstetig ist. Da ist es dann auch nicht sonderlich hilfreich, dass das Material in der Toleranz ist - das schließt dann eigentlich nur ein Umtauschrecht aus, weil ja in der Spezifikation. Sowas jag ich dann schnell durch die Düse - Funktionsteile fallen ja immer wieder mal an und dann verschwindet sowas schnell... Gruß, Digibike
  37. 1 point
    Das ist aber dann ein normales Verhalten, ist bei mir auch so. Man kann damit immer die aktuelle Version nochmals installieren, warum auch immer, aber es könnte manchmal notwendig sein. Der Drucker erkennt aber, dass du die aktuelle bereits installiert hast, weil sonst würde das gelbe Ausrufezeichen kommen und auf eine neue Version hinweisen.
  38. 1 point
    The API for retrieving the camera's URL is confirmed as a bug in v5.2.11, it was broken since v5.1 and will be fixed in the next release. The index number you specify in the API call is to specify the camera number you want to access. Not officially supported yet, but you can connect up to 10 camera's over usb and then this index number will select each camera. Not officially supported because never tested, and there is no guarantee that the number connecting to the camera's will remain the same.
  39. 1 point
    Das wird dein Problem nicht lösen, denn dein Problem ist Warping welches durch das Abkühlen des Materials entsteht. D.h. Du willst eigentlich ein heisseres Druckbett haben und nicht ein kühleres. Aber du solltest uns mehr Infos geben, dann kann man dir gezielt helfen.
  40. 1 point
    The red areas would normally indicate overhanging geometry that needs supports. In this case it looks like the surface normals are inconsistent, which breaks the visualisation of overhangs. The model likely doesn’t slice as expected because it has small holes or internal geometry. The model needs to be “repaired” before it can be sliced correctly.
  41. 1 point
    Wow, that's strong language. Recently the Ultimaker website was moved to another hosing provider. I guess in the process some directories were set to a more strict access rule for safety reasons. I just checked and all firmware files are still there but I don't have the rights to make the whole directory visible again. When you know the firmware number and release date, you can download them all by making up the link yourself: Recovery images for a clean install from SD-card: UM3_recovery- Very old, not recommeded. Same as the requested v3.7.6, but this is the official release which added the missing PP material. UM3_recovery- A very stable version with few known problems. And for the new 5.2.x versions, and newer, which have a whole new file format to support both the UM3 and S5: recovery- For both UM3 and S5. Greatly enhanced Cura Connect and Active Levelling. Has WiFi related problems on few UM3 printers (garbled screen and stalled prints).
  42. 1 point
    So if you abort a print the UM3 and S5 have a retry option at the end of the print. And the Cura connect print queue software (running on the same printers) has a list of old prints you can duplicate. Does that help?
  43. 1 point
    If you have a powerful computer on your printer, such as a smoothie board or other cell phone processor then you can make this quite small, say 0.1mm, because those tend to have a buffer that can store 100 gcodes at a time so if there are 30 steps going around a rounded corner that should be fine. But if you have an Ultimaker (UMO through S5 models so far) that has Marlin in it or almost any of the other 99% of 3d printers in the world, Marlin only stores 16 future moves at a time and has to be ready to stop by the 16th. So it will print amazingly slow if you lower this to 0.1mm and your model is very high resolution (like, say, yoda). The current value of 0.8 or so, should be fine. It means that minimum line lengths are 0.8mm.
  44. 1 point
    If you can go over how you make those gcode edits, I might be able to write a GCode post-processor.
  45. 1 point
    Agreed...It sounds like the nozzle needs to be tightened when heated, and was probably accidentally tightened when cold. You can do an atomic/cold pull before changing the nozzle to make sure debris is not preventing the nozzle from tightening all the way.
  46. 1 point
    This issue was causing my hotend to pause long enough to start damaging the build surface. I had to cancel the prints, and even after cancelling, it took an odd amount of time for the printer to become responsive again and move the z-axis up and away from the build surface being melted. I couldn't figure out why it was doing it and it was driving me nuts. I often use octoprint, but tried to print straight from microSD, and both methods had the same issue. For some reason, I didn't immediately think, "hey, maybe the slicer software I just updated today might be the issue..." After some googling, I couldn't find any related posts. The only reason I was able to find this post was because I saw a comment on a recent youtube video that mentioned starting and stopping on an Ender 3 Pro using Cura 4.1 as the slicer. That got me to search for "cura 4.1 stopping", which eventually brought me here. I had a hunch that pausing might have something to do with z-hopping, and as I read more posts, it became more obvious. After reading the details that rburema posted, I shared the gist in the youtube comments, so other folks don't spend so much time driving themselves crazy like i did. Thanks for the details, rburema!
  47. 1 point
    Having similar problems, except it pausing multiple times on the same layer, it stops after the skirt, and after each individual part layer is finished. Just ran an stl sliced with 4.0 and it prints fine. Sliced with a PC and running thru Octopi. PI3_moat.gcode
  48. 1 point
    Could you give it a try with the following settings? We had some good results with these: Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 40 Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3
  49. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    PLA Faberdashery Buse 0.2
  50. 1 point
    Superglue is great in many respects but it does not handle vibrations or physical shocks well. And while it is super-strong in vetical stress situations (lifting a car) it has very poor abilities to handle shear stress (sideways). You can't really get a better bond than actually fusing the parts together. (I'm not knocking your preferred method of assembly, just pointing out the inherit weakness in the material. I use superglue for lots of things too.) Yes, the acrylic glue can also be used to smooth out things. I successfully made a paste for filling gaps by mixing the glue (which is rather thin) with shredded PLA, just like you would with ABS and acetone. (Small warning though- you do need fairly good ventilation because it smells just as strongly as contact cement.)
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