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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I certainly cannot comment on all your findings as some would require to be a firmware dev. But this information here might help to understand why things are as they are atm. 1 - The printer is waiting for the heated bed to cool down. As soon as it is cold enough to touch you get the "confirm removal" button and can finish the process. The background here is a legal one: the machine has to be safe so removal should not be allowed if there is a risk to burn your fingers. Safety is part of professionalism - whether we like it or not in specific cases. You can speed it up on your own risk: Nobody and nothing prevents you from opening the doors, remove the hot plate and insert a cold glass plate. 2 - A change from e.g. black to white filament or vice versa requires quite an amount of priming to ensure the old color is not mixed into the new print. Current firmware plays it safe here. Maybe Ultimaker will enhance it one day so it takes such things into consideration and offers specific priming amount (down to almost zero if the same material as in the last print is loaded). 3 - The top bar represents the various steps in a wizard. The actual progress bar of a certain step is shown in the lower half of the screen. 4 - I don't know how long you waited - the progress bars have some non-linearity sometimes. It could also be a bug in the firmware. However, I would recommend to switch the printer off, wait maybe 30s and switch it on again and check it again. This procedure is what I do after the first-time start-up wizard completed and after firmware upgrades. A proper re-initialization is certainly not a bad thing. 5 - see 4 6 - That looks to me as if loading and unloading of the material are available. If it does not work, there is a (bit ugly) work-around. Go to the printcore menu of the printcore in question and unload it. This triggers the material unload routine. But the printer is not in a good firmware state after this; you should reboot it. 7 - Double recognition of NFC tags indeed happens sometimes. A good way to avoid / minimize the issue is to put Ultimaker spools in such a way into the bay that it is close to its left edge - for all spools! 8 - Press on bay B and it should give you more information about what's wrong, no? 9 - I would not be aware of a background firmware update while the printer is actually doing something. Maybe you started firmware update while there was still filament loaded (your point 6)? It might be a good strategy to first fix an error before upgrading the firmware. 10 - Comparing the S5 Pro Bundle with a 2+ might not be a fair thing to do. Sure, both are Ultimaker 3D printers. But they are pretty different in terms of features and automatization. It's an old truth that a larger number of features usually gives a larger number of potential issues. Btw. I'm also often an impatient person. 😉 11 - Yes, booting the Pro Bundle takes its time and as mentioned on top I'm not a developer so I cannot tell you what exactly the printer is doing and why it takes that amount of time. If you are interested in this you can dump the logs on an USB stick and have a look at the boot-up entries there. I hope the above helps you and others to get the best out of the Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle as it presents itself at the moment.
  2. 4 points
    thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far: 1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs: bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes 2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration. 3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but _disabled_ through the printer's config menu. this reduces noise of the steppers. 4. it took me quite some time to figure out the basic settings in MARLIN 2.0.5.3 to make it cooperate with the skr1.4 and the UM2+. besides that, you need some extra hardware to properly connect the PT100 sensors and the hotend-fan to the board. see more details on my github: Marlin+SKR1.4+TMC5160+UM2plus
  3. 3 points
    That sounds like an "Extension" type of plugin: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium/wiki/Plugin-Types#extentions An example can be found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UraniumExampleExtensionPlugin It also sounds similar to this plugin, but you'll have to update it a little before it will work in Cura 4.6: https://github.com/zoff99/ElectricPrintCostCalculator At the very least you would have to update the api in plugin.json from 4 to 7, but you also have to change from Preferences.getInstance() to CuraApplication.getInstance().getPreferences(), and there is likely more. See also the plugin documentation for Uranium, the framework Cura is built on: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium/wiki/Creating-plugins Here are some more basic examples: https://github.com/Ultimaker?q=example
  4. 3 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  5. 2 points
    I agree with you, but I'm developer and this is the reason why I'm on beta. I have tried to report problem with Cura to help Unimaker developers. 😉
  6. 2 points
    Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
  7. 2 points
    this is the final setup of the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my UM2+ chassis. without white cover and extra fan being off, the TMC5160 drivers easily reached 60°C @ 28°C ambient temperature, causing a hard reset of the SKR approx. 90 min into the prints on three different occasions. hence, i opted for forced cooling of the SKR, using a 12 VDC fan (60x60x10), connected to the 5VDC output of the DCDC module. also tried a 12VDC impeller from a radeon graphics card, connected to 5VDC. air flow was massive, but torque noise was way too loud. a note of caution: the heatsinks that BTT supplies with the TMC5160 are utter BS. they actually fell off the MOSFETs when the temperature reached 60°C. the MOSFETs btw don't need any cooling at all, i've tested that. its just the TMC5160 heating up the driver modules and the MOSFETs. so, for now, i'd call this mod done, my UM2+ is running not really silently, but much more silent than with the original stepper drivers. especially the many case resonances and the utter screaming of the Z-axis are gonsky. the USB "pigtail" will get an upgrade with a panel-mount adapter that fits into the original aperture on the back of the printer. next thing to tackle with is the noise of the part fans. two points remain, though: 1. many comments on the TMC5160 say that there is no heatsink required. why is the TMC5160 running so hot in my configuration? can somebody confirm the temperature of the drivers? i mean, did anybody else really measure the temp of the drivers? 2. i'd would have expected the steppers to run "dead silent" on the TMC5160. in fact, there is still a well audible humming (but no whining), when the steppers are moving. what's your experience? SKR14_axial60_lid.stl SKR14_imp_cass.stl SKR14_pcb_base_V2b.stl
  8. 2 points
    So 3dsolex cores are 30W. Ultimaker cores (all the one's I've tested which I think is all of them) are 25W. You can change the heater to a 35W and it will work but it may oscillate a bit unless you also modify the PID values. I recommend sticking with 25W. They are "ceramic" heaters. I don't know what that means. The diameter is an even integral mm. I forget if it's 2mm, 3mm, or 4mm.
  9. 2 points
    Hi all, New firmware for the S5 and the S3 has been released today. In line with the change of mycloud to digitalfactory, you will see some branding changes, and some cloud feature improvements. You can read more about it in the blog. You can view the full release notes for the S5 here, and for the S3 here. If you want to download the .swu for a USB download, you can do that from this S5 page or this S3 page Thanks for your time!
  10. 2 points
    It's an issue with the module for USB Printing. Try going in to the Marketplace and turning it off. Worked for me.
  11. 2 points
    YES!!!! I finaly got the solution . The printing parameters are not define in the cura.po file but in fdmprinter.def.json.po so the catalog must be specified as : i18n_catalog = i18nCatalog("fdmprinter.def.json") from UM.i18n import i18nCatalog i18n_catalog = i18nCatalog("fdmprinter.def.json") #: fdmprinter.def.json # msgctxt "support_extruder_nr_layer_0 label" -> Context # msgid "First Layer Support Extruder" -> Key # msgstr "Extrudeuse de support de la première couche" -> translated text definition_key=key + " label" untranslated_label=stack.getProperty(key,"label") translated_label=i18n_catalog.i18nc(definition_key, untranslated_label)
  12. 2 points
    here you go. you need the base-plate and one set of 4 mounting tabs. two of those don't have holes, they are meant to be glued in place on the base-plate. for the two tabs with holes, you need two M3 brass inserts in the base plate and two M3 x 6 screws. (the rectangular cut-out was a q&d hack to make room for one of the Z-axis rods. the below stl has the corrected version with cut-out.) SKR14_Mounting_base.stl SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl
  13. 2 points
    Better to take a few min to start a print than to lose a print 10 hours in due to a bad first layer.
  14. 2 points
    Thanks y'all for the responses, these are all quite usefull tips. I know have the marlin source files so the editing can start. The goal is to integrate a filament flow sensor into my um3 3d printer. Once there are any updates, I'll let you know (but probably in another thread)
  15. 2 points
    This is link to files: Printhead
  16. 2 points
    I understand TheodorK has contacted us in the meantime via our support-system, via which we will share the requested files with him. If you also wish to receive the source code for the software for your Ultimaker 3, you can do this by requesting it via this link. Thank you @gr5, @tinkergnome and @neotko for your input!
  17. 2 points
    Ultimaker print cores are a consumable as a whole, they are not designed for replaceable nozzles. E3D-style nozzles (like from your link) will not fit anyway. Considering that you've probably already severely damaged the AA core with a single print from abrasive material, the price of the CC core looks perhaps a bit more attractive... 🙂 The (third-party) print cores from 3DSolex do have replaceable nozzles, but i have no personal experience with those.
  18. 2 points
    It's not using any QT environment variables for the fonts. Instead, it's using what is defined in the theme files. You can find them in the app image inside resources/themes/ The default one is cura-light and you chan change the fonts used in the theme.json file.
  19. 2 points
    You have the remove all holes setting enabled, disable that and it un-bricks...
  20. 2 points
    Thanks for completing the changes and building the package. If you like to maintain it, I think it is better to format numerical values like this: if str(GetType)=='float': GelValStr="{:.5f}".format(GetVal).rstrip("0").rstrip(".") else: GelValStr=str(GetVal) it is better mimicking the GUI. The original code will give rounded values with 2 decimal places even when the GUI shows more decimals. For myself I have changed the plugin to make an CSV file because my main purpose is to compare different profiles and I can feed that directly into Excel to show the differences.
  21. 2 points
    I mean, it's almost one option as it is. Changing "Support extruder" sets all the options below to that extruder (which you'd have to do regardless) and then change "Support infill extruder" to your other extruder and you're done. It's not a super common thing that people ask for since quite often it's not applicable as the support would be stuck inside the model.
  22. 2 points
    You can just change which extruder to use for the different areas of the generated support.
  23. 2 points
    As a programmer (not a cura programmer, not an ultimaker employee) it seems like thousands of times someone found a simple bug but I could not reproduce it. "just check this box". I did. Doesn't do it. "oh you have to raise it less than 1mm". Still doesn't do it. "oh you have to have this model with a curve on the bottom surface". Oh! Now it does it. It's frustrating as a programmer when people think the bug is so simple to find and duplicate yet I know I've tested this exact "issue". It's just that it didn't occur to me to do something a different way. So when the user puts in the extra effort of sending me the exact scenario, then I'm more likely to look at it. In your case that means either doing more testing or simply posting the 3mf file (in cura do "file" "save").
  24. 2 points
    I was one of the biggest critics of Ultimaker. However, the latest firmware seems to do a lot well. 1. The video feed has never crashed since Tuesday. 2. The change from the same material with strings that fall off has improved massively. Until now, no part fell off during a new print or during a change of material and then remained on the print. Before that, 4 out of 5 prints / changes were the case. 3. No Errors by changing materials (start or change). This means that the S5 Pro Bundle can now be used really well. Nevertheless, there are still a few points that need to be looked at again: 1. The connection via LAN sometimes crashes. After 10-20 seconds, however, it exists again. 2. CURA often has connection problems and the completion notification is no longer correct. 3. Since I often print with the same filament one after the other, I should be able to tell the printer that it is not spending so much material at the beginning. There is no point in simply stripping off so much material when using the same color and material. It also makes the whole process much faster. 4. When changing the material during printing (filament runs out) the change takes a relatively long time and there may be small layer errors. It's the same as in point 3, whereby (almost) always the same material is used as before. Overall, the new version is a quantum leap.
  25. 1 point
    Hi Alex, As those wiring is mowing all the times during printing, those wires might break sometimes. This fan is using 5 V DC, also your model is a UM2+ right. So a question, is your printer an upgraded UM2 to + version, -or is it a factory new UM2+? I'll ask this because I'll think the factory new versions aft fan is temperature controlled, -so if this control circuit stop working it's a problem, -but can be fixed. The old UM2 have a fixed 5 V DC, so when power is applied it will start and will stay as long power is applied. Check those small connectors and carefully inspect that the wires is properly connected to the two pin connectors. This wires may also break at the place where it "tends" to bend when printing.. It might be close to the attachment at the back of the printer or quite close to the extruder. But this might not be because of the replacement of the coupler, as your first pictures indicated expanded filament up hi at the "cold" side of the hot end. So if the fan have had this issue for some time, the coupler had suffered due to high temperature and become deformed due to this fact. So as you've tested the fan with external power, the issue may be just a broken (open) connection in the aft "fan wiring". Hope this help. Regards Torgeir
  26. 1 point
    Yes, but your model has no infill and you normally print infill before walls (so it says in your profile) so the air could possibly be expelled in the infill (when you use infill) and you would not notice the holes.
  27. 1 point
    UPDATE: I have now tried 2 prints since I updated to 5.7.2, and both have failed in the same way. At the end of a spool, the material is "stuck" in printcore, so it cannot change spools. The wizard does appear, but even after freeing the stuck material from the printcore, it does not fully unload, causing an ER61 error, and a lost print. I installed 5.7.2 because I thought "Great, I will save a few cents per print since it doesn't prime as much material, especially when printing with the same color material over and over". Well, at this point, I have lost about $125 worth of material in the two failed prints!!! This is a job that I have printed dozens of times over the last few months with no issues. In the two weeks prior to this, I have had atleast 5 material changeovers in the Material Station with no issues. At this point, I want to roll the firmware back to the previous version because I don't trust this machine now, and I have work to finish. ____ I installed the latest firmware (5.7.2) yesterday. I started a print, and all seemed well. When I get to work this morning, the print was paused saying the current spool did not unload due to being stuck in the printhead. It took me into the Wizard, and walked me through a couple of steps to free the material. The procedure says to release the bowden tube at the top of the printcore, and then cut the material. As I was trying to free pull the end of the bowden tube, the material pulled free from the printcore, so I didn't cut it. With the material now released, I continued but it stopped unloading when the free end got the feeder, and gave me an ER61 error. So the Wizard worked (sort of), but didn't save the print. Also, on the ER61 page, it seems to give you two options if the material did not fully unload. One is if the material is visible outside of the Material Station, and the other is if it isn't visible. In the case of it being outside the Material Station, it seems to imply I should be pulling the material out through the small tube before the Decoupler. In my case, there was about 15 inches of material past the Decoupler. It seemed to work fine to pull the material "forward" through the Decoupler (I removed the input line to the Feeder). Perhaps you should update that troubleshooting page to indicate options that include the material being stuck in the Feeder.
  28. 1 point
    You don't enter the layer actually - you enter the Z height - the Z position - of where to continue the print.
  29. 1 point
    Hi alexgan, Hmm.. Seems there is something going on at the coupler. How is the coupler, the white insulator that's right above the heath block? If the coupler is too much compressed in between the fixed alu spacer and the heat block, the coupler may shrink and the passage for the filament will decrease. This will create a massive resistance for the "free" feed of the filament. This pressure is set by the stainless tube screw that's attached to the heat block, however if this screw is to loose, it may lead to a leakage of filament into the extruder that will ruin you day.. Do not ask me about how tight is enough, cause I never seen any info about this. I just turn it down until it is only in contact with the coupler, then I add about (5-10) degrees more turn -so that I feel "some" resistance. I usually put one mark on the screw and heat sink so I can see that it is held in the right place and do not move. So yes, there is a critical balance in tightening this screw.. These couplers is a consumable part and we should always have some in spare. Hope this help Torgeir
  30. 1 point
    Hi Folks, This tread is kind of old, but here's at last 3 different issues that can happen with any kind of printer.. So, to the first one that's very interesting, cause this is a relatively small round print with an overhang. This problem is not related to the breakaway support, but it is because of to much heat radiation to this part/side of the printed object. As the object is round, you will see that one sector will suffer for lo blast from one of the fan and this is the problem here. This could be cause one fan is not working properly, or just stopped. Also such object may not have sufficient cooling due to the position of the fan and the fact that the object is very close to the bed. To avoid this latter, the only way is to print with blue tape and heat bed off. The break away should have some distance to the "roof" as it should not stick to hard to the print, so around a millimeter or less is what I'm using -but depend a little of filament type as well. The second print with white PLA (I guess), is something else. This color is the most difficult one to print due to it's color, -white. From the thermodynamics this is well known, object with this color do not radiate it's heat energy as well as the object darker colors. So here it is better to be on the low end of temperature advised by the producer. In this print you see some brownish remains that are in the skin of the object, this also indicates to high temperature. With a small content of water present in the filament, very small holes might bee seen in your print. Well, this is just about the old issues up there. Thanks Torgeir
  31. 1 point
    that board seems to use MAXIM 31865 ADCs for RTD to digital conversion. this is not compatible with the BTT SKR 1.4 TURBO analog temperature inputs and requires an SPI connection to the host: MAX31865 datasheet
  32. 1 point
    thanks for the help and im sorry for calling its a shitty program as i said i was pissed at the moment and i should of not sent that msg wile i was mad
  33. 1 point
    For at least some of the UM printers, the default is 0.875 * the nozzle dia, so for a 0.4 nozzle, they use a line width of 0.35. I guess they must have evaluated different line widths and decided that is what works best for them. On my non-UM printers I still use a line width of 0.5m (with a 0.4mm nozzle) unless I really need a thinner line for some specific model.
  34. 1 point
    The future is now! See the "Infill Layer Thickness" setting.
  35. 1 point
    When printing with wall line count at 3 I've had the infill kinda show through. Increasing the wall count usually gets rid of the marks. At a wall line count of 5 I rarely see it. I've never played with Infill Overlap Percentage but it sounds like the kind of setting that could have an effect on low line count walls and marring of the surface by the starts and stops of the nozzle when putting the infill in place.
  36. 1 point
    Simply disable the "USB printing" plugin
  37. 1 point
    The firmware (more than just a marlin firmware since it uses marlin as it where a printer driver) you can download it and change it by yourself (is very well documented). The problem is that is signed so you can’t make your own firmware pack. To avoid this, years ago a UM guy answered my prayers (or head bangs) good hunt! This was written by Oliver on http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=12&hilit=Um3+firmware+signed&start=930#top Sorry to reply so late, anyhow.The printers are indeed not shipped with the micro SD card in use. However any OS you put there, will be booted first. Iow, the microSD card has priority over the onboard storage. Since we use an A20, I would suggest to head over to http://linux-sunxi.org to get familiar for the low level stuff.Alternatively, to install a 'custom iamge', it is true, we do not want to make it too easy. Not because we don't want people to experiment, on the contrary, but we have to protect our general users from themselves (or mischievous users?). When updating via the Menu (either via the internet or via a USB stick) the firmware does indeed need to be signed. The GUI checks the signature. But that's it. If you want to manually deploy a custom image, it would work something like:1) enable developer mode2) scp your rootfs.tar.xz to /tmp/rootfs.tar.xz3) run 'systemctl isolate update.rootfs.target' on the printer, which can be done either via the serial console, ssh or execute the command remotely (over ssh).This will install a custom firmware onto the machine. For small changes, as Jaime mentioned, you can just ssh in and modify/copy files.
  38. 1 point
    I'm working on a version of the Custom Job Prefix plugin that also supports a configurable postfix (I'm going to have to change the name of the plugin...). If you would like to test it out, download this development snapshot and drop it onto the Cura buildplate as if you were opening a 3d model.
  39. 1 point
    Yes, cura 4.6.1 with exact same settings for the print that took my Ender 5 15h to print, quoted 15h 11 min while old Cura (4.0) said 8h 48 min. So upgraded Cura is almost spot on except for being a little pessimistic, which is better than overpromising 🙂
  40. 1 point
    Based on the wiki explanation about profiles and settings here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Profiles-&-Settings i have just made minor changes to the code (marked with ->). At the moment just enough to test on one extruder stack. Copyright (c) 2020 5axes # Initiale Source from Johnny Matthews # The SnapShot plugin is released under the terms of the AGPLv3 or higher. from UM.Application import Application from cura.CuraVersion import CuraVersion # type: ignore from UM.Preferences import Preferences from UM.Settings.ContainerRegistry import ContainerRegistry from UM.Workspace.WorkspaceWriter import WorkspaceWriter -> from cura.Settings.ExtruderManager import ExtruderManager import UM.Settings.SettingRelation class CuraSettingsWriter(WorkspaceWriter): def write(self, stream, nodes, mode): stream.write("<style>") stream.write(" .category { font-size:1.5em; } ") stream.write(" .off { background-color:grey; } ") stream.write(" .valueCol { width:200px;text-align:right }") stream.write("</style>") application = Application.getInstance() machine_manager = application.getMachineManager() stack = application.getGlobalContainerStack() -> extruder_stacks = ExtruderManager.getInstance().getActiveExtruderStacks() global_stack = machine_manager.activeMachine #jquery = open("plugins/plugins/CuraSettingsWriter/jquery-3.3.1.min.js","r", encoding="utf-8") stream.write("<script src='https://code.jquery.com/jquery-3.3.1.slim.min.js'></script>\n") stream.write("""<script> $(document).ready(function(){ $("#enabled").on("click",toggleDisabled); }); function toggleDisabled(){ $("tr.disabled").toggle(); } </script> <h1>Cura Settings Export</h1> <button id='enabled'>Toggle Disabled</button><P>""") stream.write("<table width=50% border=1 cellpadding=3>") # Version stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class='ok' style='width:50%;padding-left:25'>Cura Version</td>") stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=2>" + str(CuraVersion) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") # Job J_Name = Application.getInstance().getPrintInformation().jobName stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class='ok' style='width:50%;padding-left:25'>Job Name</td>") stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=2>" + str(J_Name) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") # Snapshot #stream.write("<tr>") #stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=3>" + str(F_Name) + "</td>") #stream.write("</tr>\n") # Profile P_Name = global_stack.qualityChanges.getMetaData().get("name", "") stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class='ok' style='width:50%;padding-left:25'>Profile</td>") stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=2>" + str(P_Name) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") # Quality Q_Name = global_stack.quality.getMetaData().get("name", "") stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class='ok' style='width:50%;padding-left:25'>Quality</td>") stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=2>" + str(Q_Name) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") # Material # M_Name = extruder.material.getMetaData().get("material", "") extruders = list(global_stack.extruders.values()) M_Name = extruders[0].material.getMetaData().get("material", "") stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class='ok' style='width:50%;padding-left:25'>Material</td>") stream.write("<td class='ok' colspan=2>" + str(M_Name) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") # Define every section to get the same order as in the Cura Interface -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"resolution",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"shell",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"infill",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"material",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"speed",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"travel",stream,0) # If single extruder doesn't export the data extruder_count=stack.getProperty("machine_extruder_count", "value") if extruder_count>1 : -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"dual",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"cooling",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"support",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"platform_adhesion",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"meshfix",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"blackmagic",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"experimental",stream,0) -> self._doTree(global_stack,extruder_stacks[0],"machine_settings",stream,0) # This Method is smarter but unfortunatly settings are not in the same ordrer as the Cura interface # for key in global_stack.getAllKeys(): # if global_stack.getProperty(key,"enabled") == True: # if global_stack.getProperty(key,"type") == "category": # self._doTree(global_stack,key,stream,0) stream.write("</table>") return True -> def _doTree(self,stack,extruder_stack,key,stream,depth): #output node if stack.getProperty(key,"type") == "category": stream.write("<tr>") stream.write("<td class=category colspan=3>" + str(stack.getProperty(key,"label")) + "</td>") #stream.write("<td class=category>" + str(key) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") else: style = "ok" if stack.getProperty(key,"enabled") == False: style = "off" stream.write("<tr class=disabled>") else: stream.write("<tr>") -> stream.write("<td class="+style+" style='width:50%;padding-left:"+str(depth*25)+"'>" + str(extruder_stack.getProperty(key,"label")) + "</td>") -> GetType=extruder_stack.getProperty(key,"type") -> GetVal=extruder_stack.getProperty(key,"value") if str(GetType)=='float': GelValStr="{:.2f}".format(GetVal).replace(".00", "") # Formatage else: GelValStr=str(GetVal) stream.write("<td class='"+style+" valueCol'>" + GelValStr + "</td>") -> stream.write("<td class="+style+" >" + str(extruder_stack.getProperty(key,"unit")) + "</td>") stream.write("</tr>\n") #look for children if len(stack.getSettingDefinition(key).children) > 0: for i in stack.getSettingDefinition(key).children: self._doTree(stack,extruder_stack,i.key,stream,depth+1) The comment in the original code is correct, you can't use getAllKeys() on a stack if you wan't to have the same sequence that you see in the GUI. The original idea of getting the categories (Infill, Speed etc.) and pulling the children recursively seems to work. But I have made a lot of assumptions: 1. The extruder stack (or all stacks) won't list settings as children if there is no direct value for them in the stack. That would explain why I don't get some settings if I simply replace the global stack by the extruder stack. So I kept the code to and get the complete settings from the global stack. 2. According to the above mentioned doc about profiles and settings: "The extruder stack will then ask each of the profiles that it has (in sequence) if they have a value for the requested setting" I take every setting from the global stack and ask the extruder stack for the value and hope the result is the same as given in the GUI 3. The next part of the wiki doc about formulas to calculate values for settings: "When we ask for the value of "foo", we expect to get 25 as a result. The following calls will be made in order: ..." Could be a bit more clear - who makes the calls in order?. I hope that the extruder stack will do it for me and will deliver the correct value so I don't have to do the calls in the plugin code. With all these assumptions I am not really sure about my results.
  41. 1 point
    Cool, did you also release the source code?
  42. 1 point
    Did you have coasting on for this print?
  43. 1 point
    Hello there. Just in case you missed it, your previous post has already been approved a long time ago. Here it is for reference:
  44. 1 point
    Looks like it's the X axis that is losing steps. Had you noticed the Y axis is fine. So 3% of the time this is caused because you never oiled the gantry. Put no more than one drop of oil on the 6 rods in the gantry (count them to be sure you got all 6). Push the head around before and after to see if there is a huge difference. But 95% of the time this is caused by a pulley where the set screw isn't tight enough. There are 5 or 6 set screws and pulleys for the X axis. Push the head left and right and see which ones move. It's almost always the one on the motor - the hardest to get. I think UM2 printers were mostly shipped with a black and green hex driver - this is a critical tool to have as you can tighten the motor pulley set screw without taking a single thing apart. If you don't have a long hex driver you'll have to remove that corner cover - it's held on by only 2 screws. Remember you can push the head around until the set screw is in the best possible position. Tighten all 5/6 set screws but the one or two on the short belt are usually the ones that slip. If you don't believe me you can mark the shaft and the pulley with a sharpie and you'll see that it slipped part way through a print.
  45. 1 point
    Hallo Frieder001, der Überhang ist zu extrem, ich würde mit der Temperatur soweit es geht runtergehen etwa 190°, habe PLA auch schon mit 180° gedruckt. Die Außen- und Innenwand auf 20mm/s drucken, damit sie besser haften. Als Drucktest kannst du das Objekt bei "Verschieben" Z-12 eingeben und in der Einstellung/Algemein unter "Setzt Modelle automatisch auf der Druckplatte ab" deaktivieren (kein Häckchen)" machen, um das Objekt nicht jedes Mal komplett drucken zu müssen. Damit sollte es gehen, und bei Kühlung auf 1 anstatt 4 mm ändern.
  46. 1 point
    Hey Hey Hey guys these are complicated solutions why dont u put a support at the starting of the conic model manually
  47. 1 point
    Disabling "Remove Empty First Layers" allowed to slice in mid-air.
  48. 1 point
    I think I figured it out. Cura 4.0.0 now has a new feature where you can select different number of cooling fans. I looked at the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 and the gcode from cura 4.0.0. I noticed the M106 command was exported as M106 S255 P1. I compared this to the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 which just had M106 S255. I first tried to modify the gcode to have M106 S255 P0, AND THAT WORKED Later in my investigation I noticed in the "Machine Settings" under "Extruder 1", there is a new setting called "Cooling Fan Number", by default it was set to 1, hence the "P1" reference in the gcode. Change the option under "Cooling Fan Number" from 1 to 0. After that I saw cura exported the gcode as before M106 S255. I popped in sd card and it seemed to solve my issue. I am sure maybe in the Marlin configuration you could change the fan number as well but this seemed to fix my issue. Hope this helps!
  49. 1 point
    Hi barelyanything! We have registered it as a bug. Thank you for reporting this to us. Cheers, Sandra
  50. 1 point
    Weld-on acrylic glue is awesome. Melts the surface of pla and bonds within seconds so no prep work required. Helps if you rub the parts together while glue is still wet to help dissolve the layer a bit for stronger bond. I have used other acrylic glues and they work just as well.
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