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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/30/2020 in all areas

  1. I just read a rumour about a drop in core, bowden and feeder to handle continuous fibre.
    5 points
  2. You know i'm not supposed to talk about it. But it is nice to make a product where "it sucks" is a feature!
    5 points
  3. Hi all, We've released a new patch upgrade to firmware 5.8.0 today. All Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker S3's will be able to upgrade, but the main added value is for the S5-Pro Bundle. You can read the full release notes here. Notably though, I would like to highlight the following: Unload button on screen. With firmware 5.8.0, a new feature was introduced whereby after a print filament was parked above the printhead, before subsequently retracting to the Material Station. This occurred on a timer. We have now added an unload material functionality on the display of th
    3 points
  4. Thanks you. After some tests, trials and errors, I can now print whit the accuracy I need ! The settings I use are the one above with jerks at 20, retraction at every layers. I use the engineer profile at 1.5. Now my prints don't expand. The settings that help is Horizontal Expansion : -0.16 (For Ultimaker PLA Tough and Ultimaker PLA) Hope it help others as well. I got scared for a while, but the problem was the guy in front of the printer not the machine.
    3 points
  5. Yes, I got the same problems, and only now found the solution. Just change the thickness of the filament from 2.85 to 1.75 in the settings. Of course it would help only if u use 1.75 mm filament.
    3 points
  6. I signed up just to say thank you so much. 4.7.1 fixed this for me. Much appreciated!
    3 points
  7. Hi fodskammel, You can find those washers at RS Components AS in Denmark. Here's three variants of Stainless Steel. Good luck. Hilsen Torgeir
    2 points
  8. Well if you want to pay for Cura, feel free to sponsor my work on it as a 3rd party contributor to the project: https://github.com/sponsors/fieldOfView/
    2 points
  9. The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so. The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you. How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front. The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back
    2 points
  10. That fixed it. It is now printing, and well too 🙂 🙂 🙂
    2 points
  11. Your start gcode does not include any commands to heat up your extruder or your bed. Cura sees this, and tries to help you by adding a heatup sequence before your start gcode. This is handy, but not flexible. Here's a sequence that first heats up the bed and hotend, but uses the "standby temperature" that is low enough that no oozing will happen. Then it does the leveling, before heating the hotend all the way up in time for priming. ``` M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.0
    2 points
  12. 🙂 - let's better say it was a mix of a lot of options in Cura with difficult requirements. Thanks for the feedback, and happy that it is now working for you!
    2 points
  13. Did you re-slice the model and try to print the new Gcode file - or did you run the previous Gcode that worked? Within the printer under Control / Filament make sure "E in mm³" is "Off". Looking at W1_underextrude.gcode in line 4 it says it uses 20.868m of filament. Dumping the file into AutoCad I come up with 505720.78mm of extrusion and a total E of 20.89mm. So that's whats going on in the Gcode file. With an initial layer height of .2, a layer height of .25, and a line width of .4 and doing some math (sorry grNadpa) then layer 1 is 16020.78mm extrusion
    2 points
  14. I generally respond to those pings, although I don't track issues on the forum itself. If you seek to modify the layer heights, look for the buildLayersWithHeight function of the Slicer class: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/51ee4b7adf6dfd112241cdf3fd5681e87cf6370c/src/slicer.cpp#L929 In this function it determines the Z coordinate of each layer, either by calculating from the layer height and initial layer height, or by asking the AdaptiveLayer class.
    2 points
  15. /facepalm Thank you good sir, I was certain there had to be an option for it somewhere, but for the life of me i couldn't find it yesterday lol. Was already doing the manual rename, but forget every now and then. Interesting to know, thank you again. Cheers Nallath, I went and found a plugin by fieldOfView (aka ahoeben on forum ?) called "Custom Printjob Naming" that works precisely as advertised.
    2 points
  16. Got it. In my haste I missed the change button. This is the second spool we finished fo far and we have not yet really changed spools so never used the change feature. Thanks for your reply, this issue is resolved and the printer is happily printing again!
    2 points
  17. Hi, You don't press the unload button when you have run out of filament, when you run out of filament and the prints auto paused you go to the filament thats run out and press the "change" button to change out the spool. The unload button is for just removing a spool and not loading a new one for when you are printing and only needing one print core so you can store your other spool somewhere. The load button is for when you wish to load a spool back onto the printer. This is why both the load and unload are greyed out when printing. When changeing spool always use
    2 points
  18. Hi guys, After years of following the evolution of the mark2 project, I finally got my hands on relatively cheap second-hand Ultimaker 2 (non plus that wasn't in the best shape to be honest) and did the upgrade a week after receiving the machine! As a UMO veteran - not even the Ulticontroller was around when I first got my machine xD- I am super amazed how well the mark2 does! While I have been playing around with the original dual extrusion upgrade, I must say that the mark2 is lightyears ahead in every concern!! I created a magnetic head for my e3d-hotend that I'll be sharing
    2 points
  19. I guess the root cause for your problem is that the fan in the back is not running or is blocked. This fan cools the upper part of the hot end. Check if the fan is working when you heat up the nozzle. It should start automatically when the temp of the nozzle is higher than 40/50C.
    2 points
  20. One PC is all you need, you'll just add all the printers into Cura and choose which one you want to use for each particular job.
    2 points
  21. The problem is it wont be fixed unless they can track it via github.
    2 points
  22. Holes like to come out undersized. The plastic is viscous enough that it gets dragged towards the center as it extrudes. @gr5 calls it the "Snot Factor" and the smaller the hole the worse it is. Under "Shell" you'll find "Hole Horizontal Expansion" and it will get you much closer. It is an offset setting and so it acts on the radius. Your diameters are off by about .8 so set the Hole Horizontal Expansion to .4mm. Another thing - is that image of the part accurate as to the resolution of the STL file? Check in TinkerCad and see if there is an option for a higher resolution when i
    2 points
  23. Open %APPDATA%\cura\4.7\cura.cfg in a texteditor (eg notepad). In the [general] section, remove the lines starting with window_left and window_right Save the file and try starting Cura again. If that worked, go into the General preferences and uncheck the option to "Restore window position on start".
    2 points
  24. @ahoeben I just want to be the one who is responsible for this: Congratulations!
    2 points
  25. Pssst! It is still a secret, but I have already seen a shop who has listed the new CC green (Cleaning Cores) for the vacuum cleaner. One for carpets and the other one for hard floors.
    2 points
  26. Come on @nallath, tell use about the vacuum cleaner!
    2 points
  27. After days of searching for this Easter egg, we finally found it. We can't believe how hard it was to find but it was very much worth it. Excellent challenge!
    2 points
  28. I have created a plugin that lets Cura access HID mouse devices such as the 3Dconnexion Spacemouse. It's called RawMouse because the plugin interfaces directly to the raw device without the aid/hinderance of an operating system driver. It's not a sophisticated all-singing, all-dancing interface, it simply converts the HID mouse commands into the equivalent 2D mouse commands. It has been (vaguely) tested on Linux and Windows 10 and it should also function on MacOS (10.13 upwards). For a quick install, unzip the latest RawMouse.zip from https://github.com/smartavionics/
    2 points
  29. On the left of the Cura workspace screen is a toolbar. The bottom tool is "Support Blocker". Select your model and then select Support Blocker. Click somewhere on the model to create a block. On the lower left there will be a list of the objects on the build plate (oddly enough called the "Object List"). Your new support blocker will be Eraser and additional blocks will be added to the list. You can make them active by selecting them on the list. When you select the Eraser block you can drag it around or type numbers into the Move tool dialog. You can also scale it separately i
    2 points
  30. If users of 3rd party printers aren't willing to try the beta releases, they should expect trouble when the releases arrive as UM do not have the resources to test on anything but their own products. Yes, Cura is supplied FOC but maybe people need to be willing to pay a price for it, the price is that they play an active role in the testing of new releases.
    2 points
  31. @gmeardi If you can love the solution depends on how much you are willing to stretch 'easy', so here we go. Before working with the Ultimaker S5, I've never really put my mind to NFC technology, so there are very probably some gaps in my understanding. Most of what I've learned, I've deduced from comparing the data from different spools and with different amounts of remaining material. The rest I could fill in reading the relevant python code of the firmware after ssh-ing into the printer. As @Daid pointed out earlier, Ultimaker tried to implement NDEF records. Accordin
    2 points
  32. Small python tool that helps adding 3rd party material to Ultimaker S5 on-display material type selection. https://github.com/flyinggorilla/ultimaker-s5 I do like the NFC enabled Ultimaker filaments and I am impressed how easy printing with the Ultimaker S5 can be. However, ordering filament through third party vendors is always a challenge, because they usually have only a fraction of filaments in their stores. Also do my use cases go beyond Ultimaker filament material types. So i complement Ultimaker material now primarily with FormFutura material (they have a great o
    2 points
  33. Les règles de dessin sont les mêmes : il faut que ta pièce plie mais pas trop. Ta largeur de languette est beaucoup trop grande. Ta longueur de tige n'est pas assez grande (donc trop rigide) Imprime avec un filament composite et la pièce sera plus solide. Note : ça ne sert à rien de reproduire parfaitement une pièce originale sauf à reproduire des défauts de conception. L'important, c'est la fonction.
    1 point
  34. Found the excellent thread on how to recover a bricked UM3. Back in business. Unsure what tripped this thing up, I hadn't touched anything in a while, but better now. Great forum, this! John
    1 point
  35. I ended up trying it in both TinkerCad and Fusion360 and gave up too steep a learning curve and too different to FreeCAD. So I re-drew it in FreeCAD doing it differently and it sliced fine and is now printing. 😀 Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
    1 point
  36. I have had some success (depending on part geometry) using support blockers. Set "Per Model Settings | Modify settings for Overlaps" differently for the blocker. You can add walls or change the infill density to 100%. I suppose you could bring in a 2nd custom shaped model and use it as the blocker. I haven't had to do that yet but off the top of my head it sounds like it should work.
    1 point
  37. I use the 3D printer "anycubic-predator": https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-predator-fdm-printer The filament is PETG. That doesn't mean warping. However, after a while the nozzle sticks. Which unfortunately slowly but surely destroys the part! A cleaning brush cannot be attached to the X-axis of the delta printer. Further optional input values are required (shown in red in the picture): 1. additionally required: Y absolute 2. additionally required: Z absolute This gives an absolute starting position X-Y-Z for the wipe move (shown in yellow in the picture).
    1 point
  38. While waiting for my post to be approved it looks like I might have found the solution. It seems the default travel jerk setting in Cura is too high for an Ender 3 Pro. I've reduced it to 10mm/s and everything so far is much smoother.
    1 point
  39. Hey. Recently I was printing some gears. I've found the location of the Z-seam* affecting the smoothness of the gears, which is important to me. So much so that I will manually edit the g-code to move it where I deem necessary, after trying my hardest to let Cura place them in inside corners. The one thing I've found a bit annoying though is that it is cumbersome to check every layer, using the toolpath animation to check the start/seams. I noticed Slic3r has an option to show these, but I prefer Cura anyway.. So I thought maybe I could develop a plugin that does this, after not fi
    1 point
  40. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544757
    1 point
  41. The bed is fine I can check that again tomorrow but just read your post again I can set the nozzle down just 0.1mm. Thank you for pointing that out! I thought it was normal till it happened to every print. And came back here to ask that very question.
    1 point
  42. Hi, sorry for late reply.. You'll need to change two settings to remove this extra travel issue. First, turn off combing mode. Then set Z seam to "user specified" and select "back". That's all needed. Here's a picture of settings and result. For testing just the "affected" top parts, you can do this; You can drag the object down and just printing the upper part (just skip support for such test). Set a brim or skirt for just that part of the object. All in all very easy to do. Good luck. T
    1 point
  43. @gandy I came across your example scripts for creating and writing spools while trying to write my own tags for some 3rd party spools. I just wanted to say the scripts worked really well! (I ended up getting the ACR122U-A9 as you were using) I combined your 2 scripts together, and then wrote some extra modules and a qt interface on top so I could easily create new spools as needed or check on my existing spools. I also added a lookup function to determine the material from the guid by reading all the material xml files in both the user and system cura material directories.
    1 point
  44. There is also a plugin in the marketplace that allows for more control of the prefixes.
    1 point
  45. I am glad it worked! The queue itself is not in Cura, but your printer has a queue of print jobs. Could be more complicated if you use the cloud or a group host, but basically the printer has the queue.
    1 point
  46. Within the settings you can find a checkbox called "Adaptive layering". I think it would be nice if, inside the "Modify settings for overlap" mesh type, the "Layer height" option would be there. This would allow you to set different layer heights for different parts of your model(s), e.g. say I wanted to print a Flexi Rex. Normally, I would set a small layer height so the joints don't fail, but then the whole model would have to be that layer height, therefore taking more time. But if I use this feature, I could add a cube, scale it to fit the joints, and set the joints to be a smaller layer h
    1 point
  47. I am glad it helped and you are back in business 😃 Keep an eye on it, maybe you need to replace the front fan if it happens again.
    1 point
  48. Hi. In the university where i study we have printed prosthetics and we did find out PLA is quite good option. We also tried out with a "Solutech" filament made of PLA and Carbon Fiber wich is very resistant and its supossed to be lighter (We did not weight it hehe but it seems like its true). But you need to keep in mind there are other factors beside the material. It also depends on factors like ergonomy (gotta find a comfy material to use between the prosthetic and the amputed member and usability (we gotta know if the patient wil be up to use any color or if the design its cool f
    1 point
  49. Merci @darkdvd je pense que tu avais vu juste, je viens de changer le bowden et 4 impressions sans problèmes. Pourvu que ça dure... Je me sens vraiment stupide de pas avoir tester ça plus tôt... persuader que le problème ne venais pas de la vu que le filament coulissait sans problème, mais visiblement pas suffisamment! Je croise les doigt.....
    1 point
  50. Hello @YairHH, as mentioned above, Cura always prints walls as pairs. Also, as mentioned above, there is now a setting that will not print walls when their flow has been reduced to below a threshold value that you can set. So the solution to the odd number of walls problem is to enable the overlap compensation and also set the wall min flow threshold to something like 20.
    1 point
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