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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/13/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
  2. 5 points
    Hi, First off i really don't think swearing is needed when asking for help, you are wanting help so be nice to them that want to help. The changes it means are any custom edits you have made to the profile settings, so any settings listed under the "Customized" part, so in the case above its your Printing Temperature (Extruder 1). I personally use it alot, because i edit my settings for supports and cooling so as i swap between profiles for differnet quality or filament types it keeps all my edited settings so i don't have to keep editing them all the time. Then your last image is a setting to pick if you want it to ask you if you want to keep them when you swap between profiles everytime or to auto remove them or auto keep them. I have mine to don't ask becasue like i say i have custom support settings i use for everything.
  3. 4 points
    So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is? You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
  4. 3 points
    I have this same issue on an S5. The logs fill up with ~85MB over several days, filling the device entirely. At that point, the S5 shows as being on the network, but is basically inoperable. There are three ways I've found to get the printer back into an operable state: 1) Factory Reset 2) Cura Connect Reset 3) SSH into the printer, and clean the log files directory, then reboot the printer (via the CLI) Once one of those three steps is taken, the printer will be operable again for between 2 and 10 days, at which point the cycle repeats. The root cause appears to be network connectivity issues - the printer appears to have network connectivity issues when under load (the laptop next to the printer does not exhibit any connectivity issues, and the printer is showing full signal). I see excessive avahi logs, as well as the printer's software having trouble getting firmware version information, or hitting its own API, causing it to log large python stack traces. Long term, it would be great to get a more stable network connection, as this has other issues (Cura will frequently not be able to show the status of the print, despite the printer thinking it has a network connection - this will come and go as a print is operating). Short term, monitoring the size of the log directory and removing old files, or modifying the rotation settings would be a great help.
  5. 3 points
    Because I explained it too often within the last days, I made a short video of how to apply glue stick correctly.
  6. 3 points
    I think we still don't have much data about this because I've gotten files that should have this problem print fine, and it happens with network prints and UFP files as well.... I though we'd already see this via sentry but nope... I'll add a way to log it to sentry, I think that's the only way to catch it in the act so to speak. it'll take at-least 2 new version at the earliest to have a fix for this problem but maybe the fact that this is really hard to find/reproduce and it's being looked at helps a bit 😕 BTW we've started using a tool called sentry to collect data on crashes and exceptions like this. it's been super useful in finding things we never saw happen but were, clearly happening to a few people out there.... the first sentry inspired fixes were in the 5.7.3 release.
  7. 3 points
    We have made the explanation a little more clear for 4.7 (not out yet), see this topic: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7592 The new explanation is a little longer, and mentions the switched-to profile. The column names are also changed from 'Default'/'Customized' to the switched-to profile name and 'Current Changes'. If you want to save the changes (to a new profile), you can select 'Create Profile From Current Settings/Overrides ...' in the drop-down menu, before changing (there is another menu-item for updating one you made earlier).
  8. 3 points
    Making the most out of the S5 build size. Cloud buster sword from Final Fantasy 7 remake that I printed for a friend.
  9. 2 points
    Ein bisschen "off-topic" (hier im Ultimaker-Forum), aber egal...: Das ist ziemlich üblich bei diesen günstigen Druckern. Wenn "mesh bed compensation" nicht zur Verfügung steht, bastelt man sich das oft mit ein paar Lagen Klebeband so weit zurecht, das es einigermassen funktioniert. So wie hier in dem Video (ist nur ein Beispiel - davon gibt es massenweise...) Z-Hop würde ich auch wieder ausschalten, der wird eigentlich nur für Delta-Drucker wirklich gebraucht. Schau Dir mal die Hilfetexte zum "Combing Mode" an. Ich glaube der Suchbegriff in der deutschen Version ist "Kamm" oder so ähnlich. (ich glaube, der original-Begriff ist auch schon irreführend - "combining" würde besser passen - aber das ist wohl "historisch gewachsen"...)
  10. 2 points
    Hi, like @MadHatter mentioned, checking the 14mm-gap is the first thing that should be done at the "offset error" - if the diagnosis of the capacitive sensor is positive. The two most helpful things for this are in my oppinion: 1. this youtube-video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2VFp6AqoMg 2. this small tool, provided by @IRobertI: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool (unfortunately, only works with UM3, not with S5 or S3) Regards
  11. 2 points
    in addition: all parts of the print cores are documented (if you want to dig deeper...): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3#ultimaker-3
  12. 2 points
    Ultimaker Cura 4.7 BETA is available! The development was focused on the Ultimaker Digital Factory and general improvement to Ultimaker Cura and your user experience. So what do we have in store for you this time? Improved search. The wide range of settings you have at your convenience can be a blessing when you want to fully optimize and configure your print strategy. But sometimes it can also be overwhelming. “What was that one setting called again I used the other day? It had something to do with ...” In Cura 4.7 BETA you can search for what a feature does, instead of what it is called. Practically this means you can now search for keywords that match the description of a feature. If you still find it difficult to find certain features, let us know which words you miss in the description in this thread Model error detection. When you upload a model which is not a manifold or contains errors Cura will present you with a pop-up warning. You can go back to your CAD software to correct and retry slicing it in Cura, saving you the time and frustration of discovering the error during printing. Thanks to @fieldOfView, Smartavionics, and @bagel-orb for their contributions to this feature. Adding Cloud printers. Synchronising Ultimaker Cura with the printers you have set up in the Digital Factory became much easier. To add a printer from your print farm in Ultimaker Cura, open Cura and log in into your Ultimaker account. All printers that you have set up in the Digital Factory will be automatically loaded. If you don’t log in, account synchronization can be triggered later via the “Add a Cloud printer button.” A reboot is not needed to install printers. Compared with before, you no longer need to add the printers one by one. We have also fixed over 70 bugs that improve the overall experience and performance of Ultimaker Cura. Among others: Tree-support improvements. Together with moving the tree support out of the Experimental category and into the support type dropdown, we also fixed multiple reported issues where the support branches would interfere with the model, or the support bottom distance was too small, or printing in the vase mode. Initial layer horizontal expansion to compensate for elephant's foot. We adjusted the initial layer horizontal expansion for some profiles. This compensates for Elephant's Foot, a small defect where the bottom of the print has a little ridge where it is molten to the build plate. Discard/keep changes dialog. We improved the wording for more clarity. Do you want more information on new features, bug fixes, and more for Ultimaker Cura 4.7 beta? Visit our github page for a full overview. Do you want to give it a try? You can download it here. And above all; when you give it a try, let us know what you think below!
  13. 2 points
    good morning, it came out amazing - its 0.15layer height, 30% infill, no support. just pretty small failures under the ring, but in general im more then happy. Used ABS for that. Thanks for the support.
  14. 2 points
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1646291262322434/permalink/2698708323747384/ What did you mean on Facebook when you said "Any suggestions before I try to call Support only to be told that I voided some sort of warranty by resoldering their board? :-)" You then said "There’s clearly nothing I could’ve done to ruin the motherboard" but you never shared the photo of the soldering in the Pi and other boards, why? We are here to help but you have to be honest about your intentions. We've all screwed up electronics. We are a community that help people anywhere we see someone asking. Facebook, Twitter, this Forum. We will continue to do so for you and others.
  15. 2 points
    You can already do this by just loading any shape and set it to be a support blocker (in the per-objects setting tool). For all other feature requests, please post them on github (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/new/choose). It's really hard for us to keep track otherwise.
  16. 2 points
    It's too bad you went this route of doing more force. All you had to do was heat the nozzle to 200C (or probably 150C would be enough) to get it out. What happens is some plastic can get in the threads and hardens in there like loc-tite. Anyway at this point you can either get a new Olsson block or you can try to get that piece of nozzle out. I'd take it out while hot (at 200C). I'd use a thread extractor. Search for "thread extractor" on the internet. I don't know what size is best so I'd get a few. But if you want this working again quickly just buy a new Olsson block. As far as the Ruby nozzles are concerned, Ulrich is talking about the 3dsolex product. It's just as good (better?) than the Olsson ruby and it costs less and is MUCH stronger because of the way it is built. The Olsson Ruby can dissentegrate at 2-3Nm if I remember right. The 3dsolex won't break until somewhere around 4-6Nm of torque. It's because the Olsson ruby is double walled in the threaded region - the inner cylinder holds the ruby in place. 3DSolex went a completely different route to hold the ruby in place. disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex rubies (aka Everlast) in my store - thegr5store.com
  17. 2 points
    I designed and printed some large (x5 scale) flowers that are inspired by the lego ones. I also designed some additional bricks to build some kind of flowerpot (but I'm not yet happy with it 🤔).
  18. 2 points
    Webcam images are now available in the cloud (with a 10-second interval)! If you install the latest Ultimaker S3 or S5 firmware you will see the webcam icon appear in the Digital Factory.
  19. 2 points
    The cloud-based Digital Factory currently supports all the features that Cura Connect had in the local network, with the exception of printer analytics (but this in progress). You need the latest firmware for S3 or S5. UM3 has limited support due to the lower frequency of firmware updates for that (older) machine. All our cloud-based products have APIs though, so data that might not be visible in our user interfaces yet might be available in an API, and you could hook up your own front-end to it.
  20. 2 points
    I can also tell you something about the rationale; With a 0.25 nozzle and 0.06 layerheight, the steps that the feeder would need to make get really, really small. So small that it will start to cause artifacts in your print. So as much as we tried, we really couldn't get the 0.06 profiles to work in a way that was anyway better than the 0.1 ones, so that's why they didn't make it (because it does take a lot longer to print)
  21. 2 points
    PR created, https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1301
  22. 2 points
    Printed a bracket in PA-GF to mount a controller in my glovebox of my car. It clips into existing holes in the glovebox and blends in quite nicely.
  23. 2 points
    I have received some questions about this form and it might be good to clarify that nothing will be published or shared without your approval. We understand that when you use 3D printing professionally, company policies may apply to you where you can not be making statements on behalf of a company. That shouldn't be a problem. We can leave the company name out and share your story or quote on behalf of you, the user. Obviously, if you are just a happy customer without a story to share, please drop a message below and let us know why 🙂
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    The blowtorch did the trick. I wouldn't say good as new, but I guess it's still very much usable. Thanks again! 😃 👍
  26. 2 points
    To cut a long story short I often do the following. 1. I remove the fan plate (4 screws with M3 on the sides) 2. i go to menu - > maintenance -> and heat the print head manually 3. Then I remove the material with pliers. !!! Of course, this is not a harmless thing to do. Because the temperature nozzle is very high at 200°. Do not touch (do not eat etc.) !!! I almost forgot. Afterwards, I'll pray. That nothing is broken.
  27. 2 points
    You can try warming the filament up with a heat gun and pulling the filament away with tweezers as it becomes soft, just try not to aim to much direct heat at any wires.
  28. 2 points
    If i'm understanding this right the slice in Cura looks fine, but when you print on your printer you have gaps between the filament paths of the top layers? Could you share a image of one of the prints you have done because seeing the problem first hand via a image can really help to see and understand the problem better than just words.
  29. 2 points
    Yeah I'll be a bit more thorough, also including 2.3.1 which was the latest 32-bit release: http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_amd64.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_i386.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win64.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1.AppImage
  30. 2 points
    Hi all, I was beaten to the punch by Link, but here it is officially too: Firmware 5.7.3 has been released for the S-line printers. Theres some much requested features in there, such as the Material Station lights being adjustable for the pro Bundle and the camera streaming images over the cloud in the digital factory (both S5 and S3) You can read the full release notes here. Enjoy!
  31. 2 points
    OMG - Why is @FendrychDesign and I the only people who see this serious problem!!!! I complained about this issue A LOT early on when Cura 2.X came out. It STILL DRIVES ME CRAZY. Okay here is the problem with keep/discard. It is unclear if the question is asking about the new profile or the old profile. That's it. That's the entire problem. Let's say I was on profile A. I changed the temp. Now I load profile B. It pops up the keep/discard question. It used to be worse - the wording is better but still confusing. So here are possibilities "Keep" will modify profile A. Is that what it does? No. It makes sense that this is what one would expect though. "Keep" will copy the overrides that I just did into profile B. Is that what it does? No. "Keep" will load profile B and override the same settings you did on profile A. Bingo! "Discard" will leave profile A alone (not save changes). True but that's not the intended meaning. "Discard" will not apply overrides/changes to profile B. YES - this is what actually happens. Instead it should say something like "discard/Apply" or "transfer". "Apply will apply/transfer your customizations to this new profile without actually updating the new profile permanently". The key thing missing in the whole description is which profile (a or b / new or old) is being modified.
  32. 2 points
    I think that "ring" on your last cold pull pic should probably not be there? (See the very left border of the pic.) Long ago I have seen a short video of a coupler that did not fit well, and molten filament came in-between nozzle and coupler, pushing the coupler up like a hydraulic cylinder. I don't remember the cause, but this could happen if there is burned residue sitting between nozzle and coupler, so there is a gap. You might want to check that? But I also think you should double-check if the third fan keeps running well while printing. Worn-out or dirty fans might start well, and then slow down or stop, or vice-versa. Not saying this is the cause, but I would double-check it. For nozzle-cleaning, I also think you should wait *much* longer for the nozzle to cool down, so that the inner core of the filament totally solidifies and comes back to room temp. Then wiggle and try to rotate *gently*, before pulling. This helps dislodging dirt from the nozzle. Then I reheat the nozzle to about 75°C (for PLA), while *gently* pulling and rotating the filament, until it comes out. I never use brute force, only very gentle wiggling, rotating and pulling. And longer waiting cycles. See my very old manual on atomic pulls here (I should update it...): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Typically my cold pulls look like these below. The bottom orange one is best. For the top one, I did not wait long enough, the core wasn't totally solid yet. If there is burned residu on the walls of the nozzle that I can't get out with pulls, then I *very gently* scrape the inner core with an M3 threaded rod, with rounded end to not damage the core. Never use steel: this is too hard for brass nozzles. Very gently scraping; this is on an UM2. Not sure if this is a good idea on other printer models though... Also note that this is not an official method, just my own thing; I am not related to the Ultimaker-company and not an official spokesperson. Other puls: the white one shows a totally worn-out teflon coupler (UM2), indicated by the thick blob or "ring". This does cause underextrusion too, and needs replacement. If there would have been a gap between coupler and nozzle, the "ring" would have been where the dark line now is on the white one. On an UM2, then the whole nozzle would need to be disassembled to clean that (I don't know about other models).
  33. 2 points
    Yes, I lost all my statistics and analytics (actually they were already inaccessible after the upgrade but before the reset). The only real way I can count machine hours is through the nozzle data which is obviously not the best solution. Thanks for all your hard work!
  34. 2 points
    I had the same issue, couldn't connect using the code on the screen. What I had to do was to Reset Digital Factory after the update and then it worked perfectly (same issue on both of our S5's).
  35. 2 points
    I see no difference between asking yes/no or keep/discard. Nothing else happens in the current dialog. We have a lot of questions regarding Cura, how to setup specific needs and so on, but I never have seen a question that this simple dialog is confusing, so I guess the rest of the world can use it as is without any problems. That's fine, I also think it is a great software. If you love it, just use it as many others do, it's free for everyone and not only for UM owners. If Ultimaker maybe wants also address the professional market too someday, I guess they will be very thankful for your advise and hint. 😜 But that's exactly what professionals need, they want to fine tune it for perfect results. If you are overwhelmed by this, there is also the simple mode with very few options. And new functions have no side effect, if you don't need them, just hide or ignore them and you are fine.
  36. 2 points
    It’s likely best if you share the .3mf file as that saves your settings and stl in a Cura project file. Just go to file and save after you have loaded the stl into Cura.
  37. 2 points
    The setExtraOverhang function creates a buffer on which to draw. Think like MS Paint. You're actually drawing just with a black pen on a white canvas. While you're drawing (the mouse is holding down) Cura's rendering system will draw everything that's black on that buffer in red if it's on the object. When you let go of the mouse, Cura will look up all of the black pixels from that buffer and spray tiny cubes on your object by drawing rays from the camera through the centres of those pixels. I don't think it should be replaced, really, although it would need to be moved to the correct plug-in somehow. The bear on the road I was facing was to make the overhang erasable again. I think it would need to be implemented through some unique ID for each cube which gets translated to a colour on the render buffer, so that we can look up which cubes to delete from the scene by looking at which colours are within a certain circle in that render buffer. On top of that, you'd want to also erase the original overhang that Cura normally already renders red, although that may be considered optional. Aside from that, I was also just changing the theme to make support meshes render red as if they are overhang on your model. That would also affect normal support meshes that the user places, which is not nice. This is probably not so difficult to fix in Cura but may be difficult from a plug-in. The plug-in was created during a research sprint several years ago, where we got 2 weeks to develop something which we thought was progressive. I had this proof of concept, but due to lack of research time on Ultimaker's planning I was never able to finish it. Well, turns out I was indeed progressive; 2 years ahead of Slic3r PE, which just added a similar feature to their latest release (and did manage to finish it).
  38. 2 points
    Yes, all sorted for me too. Big 👍 👍👍 for the Ultimaker Essentials support team!!
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    Hi, For the Bowden tube slipping out of the feeder, check that the tube coupling collet (the round item that you push the Bowden into) as all its teeth still so it can grip the bowden. If the coupling collet is all fine then cut around 4mm off the end of the Bowden tube, this will mean the coupling collet will now be gripping a fresh part of the Bowden tube as it’s likely that where it gripped before if worn and that’s why the Bowden tube was able to slip free from the feeder.
  41. 2 points
    Please also share the model (preferably in a project file, that way we also have your setup available!)
  42. 2 points
    Support solved this issue for me! 🙂 @SteveCox3D if this is also the case for you I think this thread can be closed.
  43. 2 points
    I wrote sometime ago this article and it covers the important settings: In order to print dimensionally accurate parts, we need to adjust some parameters. Each one of them helps us to go one step further, and in combination we have a perfect engineering profile which we can save in Cura. In principle, the following rules apply to any 3D printer, but some values may need to be adjusted for other printers. Some golden rules Print slow The slower the printing, the more positive the effect on dimensional accuracy. Ideally, you should print between 25-45mm/sec. Print cool The best results are obtained by printing as cold as possible. One way to find the right printing temperature would be to reduce the temperature until you see under extrusion and then raise it 5-10°C again. Unify speeds One of the most important rules is to set all speeds in Cura to the same value. Cura usually calculates the print speeds according to a specific formula. Infill, for example, prints much faster than an outer wall. Due to the permanent acceleration and deceleration, a certain under or over extrusion always occurs, which in turn negatively influences our dimensional accuracy. Acceleration & jerk control Acceleration and Jerk Control decelerate the print head before and accelerate it after a change of direction, so that less vibration occurs when printing e.g. a 90° corner. However, as with the different speeds, over- or under-extrusion can also occur. This can be seen very clearly at a 90° corner, which is then slightly bulged outwards. For dimensionally accurate prints, the two options should therefore be switched off. But there is also a disadvantage, because if the print head then goes around the corner unbraked, vibrations arise which then show up through so-called ringing on the surface. But this ringing is only optically visible and not really measurable. So for technical parts, where the surface is not important, but the dimensional accuracy, Acceleration and Jerk Control should still be switched off. You have to find a balance between ringing and dimensional accuracy. If the surface quality is important, the values for Acceleration & Jerk Control can be adjusted to obtain a good balance. Elephant foot The so-called elephant foot is created on the first layer, where the material is pressed into the print-bed to achieve optimum adhesion. This also displaces the material and creates a lateral bulge. The object is then slightly thicker on the underside than in other places. The "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" option can be used to adjust this behavior. Common values would be -0.2 or -0-3 mm depending on nozzle diameter. Engineering profile settings for Ultimaker Cura Line Width: 0.4 Wall Thickness: 1.2 Wall Line Count: 3 Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 Print Speed: 40 Infill Speed: 40 Wall Speed: 40 Outer Wall Speed: 40 Inner Wall Speed: 40 Top/Bottom Speed: 40 Print Jerk: 20 Infill Jerk: 20 Wall Jerk: 20 Outer Wall Jerk: 20 Inner Wall Jerk: 20 Top/Bottom Jerk: 20 Horizontal Expansion: -0.03 Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion = -0.2 Additional settings you can try Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclude Enable Jerk Control = not checked Enable Acceleration Control = not checked Outer Before Inner Walls = checked Combing Mode = off Finally, an important note There is no universal profile that fits everywhere and delivers good results. Too many factors play a role here, the filament to be printed, but also the ambient temperature and humidity. You will get different results on hot humid summer days than on cold dry winter days. Therefore one should always make a few test prints before a larger print job and if necessary adapt the parameters to the conditions.
  44. 2 points
    You don't need your own stage for that. The SupportEraser adds the picking pass to the Prepare and Preview pass, and OP's plugin could do the same. The problem though is that you can only get 8 bit RGBA values from the pass. Pickingpass uses a shader to encode a 24 bit "greyscale" value in the 3 R,G and B bytes. But for a normal vector, you would really want to have 3 16 bit floats. You could try to encode floats in ints, but you would still need 3 of them, and with a single renderpass you only get 4*8=32 bit maximum. My still-in-development measuring plugin creates 3 passes to get a more accurate position than what the pickingpass affords. Perhaps OP can have another look there: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MeasureTool/
  45. 2 points
    Can you clarify what you mean about calibrating the printhead? Are you looking to check the alignment of your axles and check for play? I've got a guide here. Bowden tube and couplers are the top things I usually replace. With that much runtime on the belts though, you may want to replace those as well. I usually find they need it between about 3k and 4k print hours depending on the printing environment. I've got a guide for that here. If you're seeing a lot of black dust building up on top of your XY motors or the belts have gotten noisy, it's time to replace them.
  46. 2 points
    The little rear fan (nozzle-cooling) should always be on when printing (when the nozzle is above 40°C). If not, check if there are no hairs and strings of filament or dust stuck in it. Check the connections and wires. If the bearings would be worn-out, or the wires broken, replace.
  47. 2 points
    I ran into the same problem. This did the trick, for me: Make sure there is no cura.exe process running, by looking in Task Manager (or just rebooting to be sure). Go into .../AppData/Roaming/cura/4.4 (or whatever version you are running) Delete cura.lock, if it is there. If it is not there, and Cura is not running, then this isn't the problem for you. There is no risk, at all, in deleting that file. It gets created at runtime and is really only valid while Cura is running. If it doesn't get deleted when Cura exits, it will cause the package manager to hang. Hope this helps.
  48. 1 point
    😉 - me too, but I only clean the glass from time to time, maybe every 30-40 prints. I use just a little bit of the stick and then distribute it with a wet towel to get a very thin layer.
  49. 1 point
    It will depend on the top thickness set in cura if you will get pockets or not. But you can check this in layer view by sliding the bar on the right side and looking at the point of where you will delete the gcode lines to make sure that layer is complete. But normally I find a quick edit to a design or swapping out nozzles to a smaller one faster then editing gcode.
  50. 1 point
    Well there ya go. You can carry on a conversation with your printer now. "M503" you said. "echo:busy: processing" it replied.
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