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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  3. 4 points
    WARNING: The website, www.3dlac.nl does not belong to our company and we have no link whatsoever, there have been customers who have told us that they have bought there and do not send anything. we have communicated to the web, the possible crime that they are committing by using a registered trademark, in addition to defrauding users. We are going to take the appropriate legal measures JOSE ANGEL CASTA├ĹO CEO 3DLAC
  4. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  5. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though ­čśŤ­čśŤ......
  6. 2 points
    Don't know, if it helps, but once upon a time someone developed a similar thing with PHP, but with the "old" API (that needs authentication). It should be rather easier in your case. Here is a link to the topic:
  7. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  8. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  9. 2 points
    You can always use a previous version of Cura, i'm guessing you are not missing a vital functionality that is only there in 4.2 ?
  10. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  11. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschr├Ąnkungen erreicht werden k├Ânnen. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber k├Ąme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da gen├╝gt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Hei├č gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erkl├Ąren, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil gen├╝gt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Wei├č, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch w├Ąre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. L├Ąnge etwas weiter erm├Âglichen w├╝rde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gru├č, Digibike
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I know you're struggling with it, but when you see the finished model, you almost can't believe it. Don't be impatient and look forward to the incredible result.
  14. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  15. 1 point
    Yes but you are going to tear your adhesion sheet very often anyway so it's not as wonderful as you might think. Also you can print on both sides of the glass if you want. If you use PVA glue I'm not sure that it makes a difference which side you print on. I've printed on both sides of the glass on 4 of my 7 UM printers (so far) because after a year or so I usually manage to chip the glass. It might make a difference but I haven't noticed.
  16. 1 point
    Das Problem mit Luft drucken kenne ich. Dein G-Code ist sauber, konnte da nichts auff├Ąlliges finden. Versuche bitte folgendes: Erhitze am Drucker das Hotend auf 170┬░ und schiebe das Filament von Hand aus durch, erh├Âhe und wiederhole diesen Vorgang steppweise um 10┬░ bis 230┬░, nach jedem Versuch sollte das Filament durch das Hotend leichter gehen weil das Filament fl├╝ssiger wird und nach jedem Versuch das Filament um ca. 1cm zur├╝ckziehen. Sollte nach erh├Âhen der Temparatur das Filament schwieriger durch zu schieben, ist die Verbingung zwischen Hotendschraube und Hotend nicht mehr ok, oder wenn das Filament aus der D├╝se deutlich kleiner ist als der D├╝sendurchmesser dann ist die D├╝se verstopf. In diesem Fall Hotend auseinander und Fehler beseitigen. Sollte alles ok sein dann die D├╝se auf 200┬░ erhitzen und L├╝fter auf 100% einstellen und das Filament am Displaymen├╝ durchlaufen lassen, wenn er das nicht schaffen sollte, ist der Extruder nicht mehr ok.
  17. 1 point
    BTW, you can save yourself some time and filament by switching to gyroid infill at a much lower density than what you are currently using. It will still be stupidly strong. I also recommend enabling the optimise wall printing order setting.
  18. 1 point
    I expect the model has a problem. Please attach it to this thread. Thanks.
  19. 1 point
    Ich kann da Breakaway von Ultimaker empfehlen. Damit druck ich ohne Luftspalt zwischen PLA und St├╝tzdach. Nach dem Druck l├Ąsst sich das einfach abl├Âsen. Hat auch den Vorteil das du das Bauteil direkt benutzen kannst und nicht darauf warten musst bis sich das PVA aufgel├Âst hat. PVA benutz ich nur falls ich das St├╝tzmaterial sonst nicht entfernen kann. Oder wenn ich mal was mit Nylon drucke. EDIT: Um etwas Material zu sparen Drucke ich oft nur das St├╝tzdach aus Breakaway. Die Struktur dann einfach aus dem Druckmaterial, meist PLA.
  20. 1 point
    Turn off active leveling. I don't recommend it. But keep in mind you need to not touch the printer during active leveling. Stay at least a foot away. Keep anything that radiates electromagnetic energy away from it also. It's very sensitive. Also the spring settings matter so make sure the bed springs aren't too tight and maybe take out the core, remove the clear top and stretch out that spring a little. You need the core spring to be stronger than the bed spring. Anyway, just turn off active leveling. It's just a gimmick and if your bed isn't level it makes the bottom of your parts tilted (on purpose of course - it slowly recovers level over the bottom few mm). For the S5 active leveling is much better as does more than just tilt correction - it corrects at each spot of potentially wavy glass. Also open the print head and look inside at the part that flops down - the inside bottom of the head. There should be 2 wires (typically red and white). Tug on them very gently. If either comes loose then that was your problem (that's the leveling sensor).
  21. 1 point
    This is "SWISSFIL" PLA RAL 2011. SWISSFIL is my absolute numbre one filament: high quality filament for a totally faire price! Not sure if I'm allowed to share the link. But you will find it with the help of google...
  22. 1 point
    Cura stores a configuration per version, so you can always go back to a previous version if a new version doesn't work for you. When there is no configuration folder for the version you are running (eg when you run Cura for the first time), Cura will see if there is an older configuration that it can copy over and upgrade so you don;t have to reconfigure everything. I think in your case it picked up a configuration from an older version that you did modify (you added a Creality CR10 definition). That old configuration points to a printer definition that does not exist in the new Cura. This causes an error. Removing the upgraded configuration will only result in having the same old configuration with the reference to the missing definition being copied over and upgraded again. By removing the contents of the folder, but leaving the empty folder in place, you trick Cura into believing there is a configuration for this version of Cura in place (there's just nothing configured). So this is the way to start fresh without copying an older configuration.
  23. 1 point
    Glad you are laughing, but I'm not an Ultimaker employee, so I don't get those logs. Neither do most people on this forum. Did you modify the Cura 4.2.1 files in any way (eg to install the Creawsome mod)? Or have you done so in the past? Creawsome mod is now integrated into Cura. I'm guessing you have tried the "Backup and reset configuration" button and restarted Cura? Something to try is to press the "Open configuration folder" button. Close Cura, and then remove all the files from the configuration folder, but leave the empty folder in place. Then restart Cura.
  24. 1 point
    Layer height is not part of a machine definition. That is part of the project settings. in my experience, Cura will start with the same project settings as previously used, assuming you are doing something similar. Or if you are working on a project, changing the printer will only affect settings that have not been overridden in the project. if you have different profiles (like ÔÇťFine 0.1 layersÔÇŁ, ÔÇťNormal 0.15 layersÔÇŁ, etc.) for the different machines, try loading the profile after switching the machine and Cura will prompt whether to keep your changes and will show you the differences.
  25. 1 point
    you could download and install xampp, it would be easier for you to start programming. https://www.apachefriends.org/index.html
  26. 1 point
    Hab die Bestellung gerade abgeschickt ­čÖé
  27. 1 point
    Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgef├╝hrt, die ich mit euch teilen m├Âchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA als St├╝tzmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich f├╝r den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergek├╝hlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur f├╝r 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es etwas umbauen. Beide D├╝sen gehen bis 400┬░C und werden durch eine Wasserk├╝hlung gek├╝hlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So k├Ânnen Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfr├Ąse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. Teuer aber lohnenswert. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig ├╝ber Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardm├Ą├čig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilit├Ąt wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Bl├Âcke wurden neu designt. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir st├Ąndig vibriert hat, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen sind im Nachhinein sichtbar und k├Ânnen sogar w├Ąhrend dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfr├Ąse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Wozu mit "gef├Ąhrlichen" und teueren Substanzen arbeiten, wenn man einen 3D-Drucker hat? Einfach den Aufsatz f├╝r den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz f├╝r die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach au├čen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist ├╝bers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller f├Ąllt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90┬░C hei├č werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zus├Ątzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erw├Ąrmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90┬░C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturl├╝fter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und k├╝hlt die Druckobjekte auf Glas├╝bergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping mehr. 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0,005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualit├Ąt kann man auch noch ├╝ber die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 D├╝se auf Wasserk├╝hlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Tinkergnome Nein du hast nichts verpasst denke ich. Ich nutzte kein Simplify3D, da ich es nicht mag. Aber ich habe das einmal zuf├Ąllig in einem YT Video gesehen, dass das so geht.
  29. 1 point
    This is the prime tower to swipe the nozzles. You can turn it off if you want - search for tower or prime and you will find the option.
  30. 1 point
    We're trying to stabilise the API's (we did a piss poor job on that before), so i hope that these checks wont be necessary anymore.
  31. 1 point
    Had Same issue with leaning Prints After checking it out it seems that a washers was rubbing againtst the pully. Removed the washer that wasn't really neaded and problem seems to have been fixed Never thought of looking at that, was looking in the software as I thought it was due to layer shift. Had this issue on the Original Ultimakar thx a bunch
  32. 1 point
    go to 3dsolex.com. They have 1.75mm conversion kits for UM2. The UM2 "plus" feeder can grip and push 1.75mm just fine as is. The absolute minimum is to modify just the teflon part so it's possible you could just buy that only. But I recommend you get the whole kit which includes a heater block as well.
  33. 1 point
    Hi all, I've printed this object in Spiralize outer contour mode and the experimental fuzzy skin enabled. The result is really great! Only thing that's weird: there is an obvious diagonal line which spiral's from top to bottom. It is almost as if the average skin density changes (gradually decreases) from the start of a layer towards the end of a layer... Does anyone have any idea what causes this? FYI; without fuzzy skin this line is not visible. It clearly is caused by a change in density of the fuzzy skin ( perhaps in combination with the spiralize mode). Thanks a lot for any reactions and tips!
  34. 1 point
    Two of my plugins need to be updated, and are still awaiting review. For now you can manually install them. OctoPrint Connection plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.0.0-2019-07-18T12_32_22Z.curapackage Sidebar GUI plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-07-18T12_34_52Z.curapackage After downloading the curapackages, just drop them in the running Cura application, and restart Cura.
  35. 1 point
    Hi Prisma3D, did as you suggested, Cura miraculously returned to work ­čÖé You are great!
  36. 1 point
    Thinking about it some more, I would imagine that Ultimaker's Cura should make a reasonable job of your print if you use a line width of about 0.2mm and enable spiralization. You also need to set the number of bottom layers to 0 so that the spiralization starts from the very bottom.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Please save your Cura project as 3mf file (project file) and upload it here to the forum. Then we can check what's wrong.
  39. 1 point
    The printer definition is now included in the standard Cura installation (from Version 4.1 on). If you have copied the json-files to the configuration folder in the past, you may want to clean this up and re-add the printer in Cura, but that's it. There are no manual steps necessary anymore.
  40. 1 point
    This is a work in progress. Since surgery, I am working with some side effects (still) so, I am slow and having to work bunches to get around them. Printed on the S5. This is the model on the build plate. Still not finished. Gotta really sharpen details and work a bit more on the overall bust. Sliced, you can see the details disappear..... Print is rough as hell....After years of no PVA issues, getting them now... Ôś╣´ŞĆ
  41. 1 point
    Use the advance settings of PVA only for interface layer I used to burn 5 - 7 rolls of PVA a month now I am down to 2.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.
  44. 1 point
    That shouldn't happen, a id+key should remain valid unless the machine is factory reset. So you only need it once. (On HTTP Digest level things do expire, but I would expect PHP to handle this for you seamlessly)
  45. 1 point
    I was able to make it to work! This is how the G-Code looks now: M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ;set bed temperature G28 ;home all axis M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ;wait for bed temperature M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature} ;set hotend temperature G29 ;auto bed leveling M109 T0 S{material_print_temperature} ;wait for hotend temperature Now my prints are more "productive" - instead of waiting for the nozzle and/or the bed to heat up, then home XYZ, then start to auto bed leveling; now it first heats up the bed (if it set to do it), in the same time it homes XYZ, and wait for the bed's target temperature. When the bed reaches to its temperatures, the printer will proceed to heat the nozzle and while the nozzle heats up, auto bed leveling is being executed. When the heating is all done, print starts.
  46. 1 point
    Hallo, ich habe einen UM2 und wie carsten das selbe Problem, nur..... die D├╝se habe ich gereinigt den Antrieb f├╝rs Filament auseinander genommen und alles wiederum sauber montiert. Das Problem des Filamenttransportes bleibt jedoch weiterhin bestehen. Die R├Ąndelschraube habe ich in beiden Richtungen getestet. Hilft nichts. Der Motor ruckelt weiter. Hat mir da ev. jemand eine Jdee. Danke f├╝r eure Inputs. Gruss Martin
  47. 1 point
    I now better understand how you people use the direct gcode commands. Still, I don't think Ultimaker will give it high priority since those are all tweaker use cases. When a community member posts a pull-request for a nice solution we could add it. Otherwise you tweakers already have the very powerful command utility described above. There is a slightly faster way to get to the command utility: - On the printer enable the development mode. - Setup a remote connection to the printer with: ssh ultimaker@ - password = ultimaker By loging in like this you directly enter the command utility. Sending gcode: sendgcode How about a web page where you can control the head movements? Sounds like a solution that would cover about 90% of your tweak desires. Technical implementation is easy but I would have to do this in my spare time and designing a nice looking web page is not my thing so I could use some help there...
  48. 1 point
    Indeed, it works, in Cura pay attention you also need to change the extruder# for priming/brim/support And quality wise, you'll always get the highest quality on the main head, simply because you're printing with a head with less weight. This is because i want to use the second extruder with 1.75mm filament and i don't want to change the settings. This is just for experiment.
  49. 1 point
    Look at the flair of the user you dissed. Look at mine. Look at yours. The etiquette of this board is not like 4chan. The standard here is to comment as if you are face to face. Many of us do meet with each other at conferences and maker faires. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you would not say "Never made use of Google in your life?" to someone you were talking to for the first time at a conference. Also, user/ultiarjan 's statement, notwithstanding the existence of combination bearings, is correct. The Ultimaker design uses bushings for XY. Combination bearings instead of bushings would be both overkill and a design problem. Given that the movement rod diameter is 8mm, a bearing outer diameter would be ~15mm, rather than the existing bushing outer diameter of 11mm. This would require a redesign of the slider blocks and more clearance inside the case.
  50. 1 point
    For releasing parts from the build=plate, if they don't come off easily when the plate cools, stick it in the freezer for a while, and they should come off easily.
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